CN111032000B - 油包水型乳化化妆品 - Google Patents
油包水型乳化化妆品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN111032000B CN111032000B CN201880055507.3A CN201880055507A CN111032000B CN 111032000 B CN111032000 B CN 111032000B CN 201880055507 A CN201880055507 A CN 201880055507A CN 111032000 B CN111032000 B CN 111032000B
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- wax
- mass
- water
- cosmetic
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 68
- 239000002734 clay mineral Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 239000000341 volatile oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 229920002379 silicone rubber Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- -1 sorbitan fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 41
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 claims description 34
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 27
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 13
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 10
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims description 10
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- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerol Natural products OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims description 8
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- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 5
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- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
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- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 claims 1
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- 239000013043 chemical agent Substances 0.000 abstract description 7
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- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 description 5
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 5
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 4
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 3
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JPPRXACMNPYJNK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-docosoxydocosane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JPPRXACMNPYJNK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CMCBDXRRFKYBDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-dodecoxydodecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCCCCCC CMCBDXRRFKYBDG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GQQNRZHWHWHOLI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 11-(2-decyltetradecoxymethyl)tricosane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC(CCCCCCCCCC)COCC(CCCCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCCCC GQQNRZHWHWHOLI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- JNAYPSWVMNJOPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-bis(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)propyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C JNAYPSWVMNJOPQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-Pentadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019489 Almond oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000004375 Dextrin Substances 0.000 description 2
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- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical group [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004115 Sodium Silicate Substances 0.000 description 2
- PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Styrene Chemical compound C=CC1=CC=CC=C1 PPBRXRYQALVLMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,4-diol Chemical compound OCCCCO WERYXYBDKMZEQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 235000019425 dextrin Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N diglycerol Chemical compound OCC(O)COCC(O)CO GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- REZZEXDLIUJMMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M dimethyldioctadecylammonium chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC REZZEXDLIUJMMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
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- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- XCOBTUNSZUJCDH-UHFFFAOYSA-B lithium magnesium sodium silicate Chemical compound [Li+].[Li+].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[OH-].[Na+].[Na+].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].O1[Si](O2)([O-])O[Si]3([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]2([O-])O3.O1[Si](O2)([O-])O[Si]3([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]2([O-])O3.O1[Si](O2)([O-])O[Si]3([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]2([O-])O3.O1[Si](O2)([O-])O[Si]3([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]2([O-])O3.O1[Si](O2)([O-])O[Si]3([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]2([O-])O3.O1[Si](O2)([O-])O[Si]3([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]2([O-])O3 XCOBTUNSZUJCDH-UHFFFAOYSA-B 0.000 description 2
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Abstract
本发明的目的在于，提供一种化妆品，其具有可称为膏状程度的硬度的固体或半固体的油包水型乳化化妆品，且保湿效果优异，并且在涂抹在肌肤时发挥如融化般渗透的独特的使用触感，并且可稳定地配合水溶性或亲水性的化学剂。本发明涉及一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其特征在于，含有：(A)有机改性粘土矿物、(B)HLB6以下的表面活性剂、(C)蜡、(D)有机硅弹性体、(E)挥发性油分、及(F)水。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及油包水型乳化化妆品。更详细而言，涉及一种为具有某种程度的硬度、但在涂抹在肌肤时发挥如融化般的独特的使用触感的油包水型乳化化妆品。
背景技术
作为膏状的皮肤外用剂，已知有Vaselin(商品名)、Son Bahyu(商品名)或L’Occitane的乳木果油(商品名)等。这些膏状的皮肤外用剂含有凡士林、马油或乳木果油之类的高粘度的油性成分，通过用油性覆膜覆盖肌肤而发挥优异的保湿效果。尤其是配合乳木果油者已知有在肌肤上融化的独特的使用触感。然而，由于含有高粘度的油性成分，因此有在涂抹时难以展开，在涂抹后产生粘腻的问题。
化妆品中，在油包水型乳化化妆品的外相(油相)中配合有蜡、油性增稠剂等的固体或半固体形式的化妆品主要于口红等化妆用化妆品中通用。关于护肤化妆品，专利文献1中提出了一种油性固体化妆品，其是将一直以来用作油性增稠剂的糊精脂肪酸酯、与蜂蜡及乳木果油等来自天然的固体脂及/或半固体脂以及具有特定范围的分子量及运动粘度的异链烷烃组合而成，不粘腻，且发挥独特的融化感，良好地紧致皮肤。
专利文献2中公开了一种含有糊精脂肪酸酯、液体石蜡及/或角鲨烷、三酰甘油的油性固体化妆品，外观的透明感、使用感及保湿感、进而保存稳定性优异。但是，专利文献1及2记载的发明为不含水的油性化妆品，例如难以配合水溶性或亲水性的化学剂等。
关于内相中含有水的油包水型乳化化妆品，可知通过在不包含有可能导致粘腻的固体或半固体油分的体系中，配合低级醇、挥发性硅油、有机改性粘土矿物、HLB(Hydrophile Lipophile Balance，亲水亲油平衡值)为7以下的聚醚改性有机硅表面活性剂(乳化剂)、及清凉剂，稳定性良好，延展性良好，发挥水润且清爽的使用感与清凉感(专利文献3)。然而，专利文献3的油包水型乳化化妆品由于不含蜡等，因此不具有可称为膏状程度的硬度(粘度)，无法覆盖肌肤而发挥保湿效果。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本特开2017-114780号公报
专利文献2：日本特开2017-114806号公报
专利文献3：日本专利第3524717号公报
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
因此，本发明的目的在于，提供一种化妆品，其具有可称为膏状程度的硬度的固体或半固体的油包水型乳化化妆品，且保湿效果优异，并且在涂抹在肌肤时发挥如融化般渗透的独特的使用触感，并且可稳定地配合水溶性或亲水性的化学剂。
用于解决问题的方案
为了解决上述问题，本发明人等反复努力研究，结果发现，在配合有机改性粘土矿物及HLB为6以下的表面活性剂、蜡、有机硅弹性体、及挥发性油分而成的油包水型乳化化妆品中，有机改性粘土矿物及HLB6以下的表面活性剂与油分一起形成油凝胶而使乳化物稳定化，通过配合蜡而达成所需的硬度，通过配合有机硅弹性体及挥发性油分而可抑制粘腻、不在肌肤上残留油腻感，从而完成本发明。
即，本发明提供一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其特征在于，含有：
(A)有机改性粘土矿物、
(B)HLB6以下的表面活性剂、
(C)蜡、
(D)有机硅弹性体、
(E)挥发性油分、及
(F)水。
发明的效果
本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品是具有称为膏状程度的硬度的固体或半固体者，通过用含有蜡的覆膜覆盖肌肤而具有优异的保湿效果。另外，在涂抹时赋予如在肌肤上融化而塌陷般的独特的触感，可稳定地配合水溶性或亲水性的化学剂。迄今为止尚未知晓发挥这种美容效果的膏状的化妆品，通过本发明首次提供。
附图说明
图1为示出本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品(实施例6)及含有乳木果油的比较例3(L’Occitane的Shea Hand Cream(商品名))的流变特性的曲线图。
具体实施方式
以下，对本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品(以下也简称为“化妆品”)进行详细叙述。本发明的化妆品如上所述呈现具有称为“膏状”的程度的硬度的固体或半固体的形式。本说明书中的“膏状”及“固体或半固体”是指于常温(25℃)下的保存时不显示流动性。例如优选为常温(25℃)下的硬度成为5～200的范围内。
此处，上述中的“硬度”是使用流变计(不动工业公司制造)等公知测定装置在下述条件下测定时由下述式(1)所示的硬度(γ)。
γ＝(G*L)/(l*a)(N/cm2) (1)
(式中，G：测定应力，L：样品的厚度(mm)，l：压缩距离(mm)，a：针的截面积(cm2))
(测定条件)
针径：5.6mmφ，针入速度：2cm/分钟，针入距离：10mm，测定温度：25℃
(A)有机改性粘土矿物
本发明所使用的有机改性粘土矿物只要为一直以来配合于化妆品等中者即可，例如优选为具有三层结构的胶体性含水硅酸铝的一种，且为将下述通式：
(X,Y)2-3(Si,Al)4O10(OH)2Z1/3·nH2O
(其中，X＝Al、Fe(III)、Mn(III)、Cr(III)，Y＝Mg、Fe(II)、Ni、Zn、Li，Z＝K、Na、Ca)
所示的粘土矿物利用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂进行处理而得到者。
具体而言，可例示：将蒙脱石、皂石、及锂蒙脱石等天然的蒙脱石类、合成的蒙脱石类(例如上述通式中的OH基经氟取代者；市售品有Veegum、Kunipia、合成锂皂石等)、及以钠硅云母、钠或锂带云母的名称周知的合成云母(市售品有Dimonite：Topy Industries株式会社等)等粘土矿物利用季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂进行处理而得到者。
作为为了对粘土矿物进行有机改性而使用的季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂，适宜为下述通式所示者。
(式中，R1表示碳数10～22的烷基或苄基，R2表示甲基或碳数10～22的烷基，R3与R4表示碳数1～3的烷基或羟基烷基，X表示卤素原子或甲基硫酸盐残基)
作为具体例，可列举：十二烷基三甲基氯化铵、肉豆蔻基三甲基氯化铵、十六烷基三甲基氯化铵、硬脂基三甲基氯化铵、花生基三甲基氯化铵、山萮基三甲基氯化铵、肉豆蔻基二甲基氯化铵、十六烷基二甲基氯化铵、硬脂基二甲基氯化铵、花生基二甲基氯化铵、山萮基二甲基氯化铵、十六烷基二乙基氯化铵、硬脂基二乙基氯化铵、花生基二乙基氯化铵、山萮基二乙基氯化铵、苄基二甲基肉豆蔻基氯化铵、苄基二甲基十六烷基氯化铵、苄基二甲基硬脂基氯化铵、苄基二甲基山萮基氯化铵、苄基二甲基乙基十六烷基氯化铵、苄基二甲基乙基硬脂基氯化铵、二硬脂基二甲基氯化铵、二山萮基二羟基乙基氯化铵、及相应的溴化物等，进而可列举：二棕榈基丙基乙基铵甲基硫酸盐等，可任意选择这些中的一种或两种以上。
需要说明的是，在利用上述季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂对粘土矿物进行处理时，也可并用非离子性表面活性剂进行处理。例如可列举：聚氧乙烯2～30摩尔加成(POE(2～30))油醚、POE(2～35)硬脂醚、POE(2～20)月桂醚、POE(1～20)烷基苯醚、POE(6～18)山萮醚、POE(5～25)2-癸基十五烷基醚、POE(3～30)2-癸基十四烷基醚、POE(8～16)2-辛基癸醚等醚型表面活性剂、及POE(4～60)氢化蓖麻油、POE(3～14)脂肪酸单酯、POE(6～30)脂肪酸二酯、POE(5～20)失水山梨醇脂肪酸酯等酯型表面活性剂、进而POE(2～30)甘油单异硬脂酸酯、POE(10～60)甘油三异硬脂酸酯、POE(7～50)氢化蓖麻油单异硬脂酸酯、POE(12～60)氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯等醚酯型表面活性剂等环氧乙烷加成型表面活性剂及十甘油四油酸酯、六甘油三异硬脂酸酯、二甘油二异硬脂酸酯、甘油单油酸酯等甘油脂肪酸酯等多元醇脂肪酸酯型表面活性剂。这些之中，优选为使用十甘油四油酸酯、六甘油三异硬脂酸酯、二甘油二异硬脂酸酯等二甘油以上的聚甘油脂肪酸酯、POE(2～12)月桂醚、POE(6～15)山萮醚、POE(5～20)2-癸基十五烷基醚、POE(5～17)2-癸基十四烷基醚、POE(8～16)2-辛基癸醚等POE加成醚型表面活性剂、及POE(10～20)氢化蓖麻油、POE(5～14)油酸单酯、POE(6～20)油酸二酯、POE(5～10)失水山梨醇油酸酯等POE加成酯型表面活性剂、POE(3～15)甘油单异硬脂酸酯、POE(10～40)甘油三异硬脂酸酯等POE加成醚酯型表面活性剂等环氧乙烷加成型非离子性表面活性剂的一种或两种以上。
本发明所使用的有机改性粘土矿物例如可通过在水、丙酮或低级醇等低沸点溶剂中将上述粘土矿物与季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂进行分散搅拌处理后去除低沸点溶剂而得到。
本发明所使用的有机改性粘土矿物中的季铵盐型阳离子表面活性剂的含量优选为相对于粘土矿物100g为60～140毫当量(meq)。
作为本发明中优选使用的有机改性粘土矿物的代表例，可列举：二甲基烷基铵锂蒙脱石、苄基二甲基硬脂基铵锂蒙脱石、氯化二硬脂基二甲基铵处理硅酸铝镁等。作为市售品，有二硬脂二甲铵锂蒙脱石(Bentone 38VCG：Elementis Specialities公司制造)等。
有机改性粘土矿物在油包水型乳化组合物或乳化化妆品的总量中配合0.1～5.0质量％。优选为配合0.5～3.0质量％，更优选为配合0.5～1.5质量％。若不足0.1质量％，则难以得到充分的稳定性，若多于5.0质量％而配合，则向手指上的取得性变差，在肌肤上的延展性变得不流畅等在使用性方面欠佳。
(B)HLB6以下的表面活性剂
本发明所使用的HLB6以下的表面活性剂可配合于化妆品中，只要为HLB值为6以下者，则无特别限定，例如可列举：聚醚改性有机硅、失水山梨醇三硬脂酸酯等失水山梨醇脂肪酸酯类、甘油单硬脂酸酯、甘油单油酸酯等甘油脂肪酸酯类、POE(5)氢化蓖麻油、POE(7)氢化蓖麻油等聚氧乙烯氢化蓖麻油等。这些之中，特别优选使用聚醚改性有机硅。
具体而言，聚醚改性有机硅可例示下述式所示者。
(式中，R表示氢原子或碳数1～5的烷基，m表示平均1～150的数，n表示平均1～50的数，a及b表示平均0～35的数)
HLB6以下的表面活性剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量为0.1～5质量％，优选为0.5～3质量％，更优选为1～2.5质量％。
需要说明的是，本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品中所含的HLB6以下的表面活性剂也可在吸附于上述成分(A)有机改性粘土矿物的状态下含有。即，本发明中，可分别添加(A)有机改性粘土矿物与(B)HLB6以下的表面活性剂而制造油包水型乳化化妆品，也可将(A)有机改性粘土矿物预先利用(B)HLB6以下的表面活性剂进行处理而在使HLB6以下的表面活性剂吸附于有机改性粘土矿物的状态下进行配合。
(C)蜡
本发明所使用的蜡只要为能够配合于化妆品中的蜡，则无特别限定。若列举具体例，则可列举：地蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、木蜡、小烛树蜡、米糠蜡、蜂蜡、虫胶蜡、虫蜡等。其中，优选使用选自地蜡、石蜡及微晶蜡中的1种或2种以上的组合。
本发明的油包水型乳化化妆品中的蜡的配合量相对于油包水型乳化化妆品总量为1～15质量％，优选为3～9质量％，更优选为3～5质量％。若含量超过15质量％，则有难以得到良好的使用触感的情况，另外，若含量不足1质量％，则有破坏经时稳定性的情况。
(D)有机硅弹性体
本发明的化妆品还含有(D)有机硅弹性体。通过配合有机硅弹性体，可赋予如涂抹中塌陷般的独特触感，抑制涂抹后的粘腻。
本发明所使用的有机硅弹性体例如可列举：聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、(聚二甲基硅氧烷/苯基二乙烯基聚甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、(聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、(聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、(二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/倍半硅氧烷)交联聚合物等交联型有机硅树脂粉末的一种或两种以上。
有机硅弹性体也可以在包含交联型有机硅树脂粉末与溶剂的硅凝胶的状态下配合。这种硅凝胶可使用市售品，例如可列举KSG-15、KSG-18A、KSG-16(以上为信越化学工业株式会社制造)等。
本发明的化妆品中的有机硅弹性体的配合量通常为0.5～5质量％，优选为0.5～4质量％，更优选为0.8～3质量％，特别优选为0.8～2质量％。若配合量不足0.5质量％，则有产生粘腻的情况，若超过5质量％而配合，则有难以制备稳定的化妆品的情况。
(E)挥发性油分
本发明所使用的(E)挥发性油分是在常温(25℃)下具有流动性的(液状的)挥发性油分，可选自能够用于化妆品等的油分。例如可列举：低沸点(常压下的沸点260℃以下)的异链烷烃系烃油、硅油，可使用1种或2种以上。
作为低沸点异链烷烃系烃油的具体例，可列举异十二烷、异十六烷等。
低沸点硅油包含硅原子数4～6的环状二甲基聚硅氧烷、硅原子数2～5的链状二甲基聚硅氧烷。作为具体例，可列举：六甲基环三硅氧烷(D3)、八甲基环四硅氧烷(D4)、十甲基环五硅氧烷(D5)、及十二甲基环六硅氧烷(D6)等环状硅油、粘度不足5cs的直链状或支链状的硅油(例如聚二甲基硅氧烷(粘度不足5cs))等。
本发明的化妆品中的挥发性油分的配合量为5～50质量％，优选为10～50质量％，更优选为20～50质量％。若配合量不足5质量％，则会失去如融化般渗透的独特的使用触感，若超过50质量％而配合，则乳化稳定性降低。
另外，本发明中，优选为将(E)挥发性油分与(C)蜡的配合量比率([(E)/(C)])设为50以下。该配合量比率进而优选设为30以下，特别优选设为20以下。
(F)水
本发明的化妆品是在内相中含有(F)水的油包水型乳化化妆品。本发明的化妆品是在内相中含有水，且在外相中配合蜡而维持硬度，因此可稳定地保持水溶性或亲水性的化学剂等。
本发明的化妆品中的水的配合量并无特别限定，优选为60质量％以下。更优选为50质量％以下，进而优选为40质量％以下。
本发明的化妆品除含有上述必须成分(A)～(F)以外，也可在不有损本发明的效果的范围内含有能够配合于油包水型乳化化妆品中的其他任意成分。作为其他任意成分，可例示以下者，但并不限定于这些。
(G)保湿剂
通过配合保湿剂，可进一步提高由本发明的化妆品所产生的肌肤的保湿效果。作为保湿剂的具体例，可列举：丙二醇、一缩二丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,4-丁二醇、二乙二醇、三乙二醇、聚乙二醇等二醇类；甘油、二甘油、聚甘油等甘油类；山梨糖醇、甘露糖醇、麦芽糖醇、木糖醇、赤藓糖醇等糖醇类；果糖、葡萄糖、半乳糖、麦芽糖、乳糖、海藻糖等糖类。
在本发明的化妆品中配合保湿剂的情况下，其配合量通常为1～15质量％，优选为2～12质量％，更优选为3～10质量％。若配合量不足1质量％，则保湿效果的提高并不显著，若超过15质量％而配合，则反而有产生粘腻的情况。
(H)非挥发性流动油分
通过配合非挥发性流动油分，可适当调整化妆品的硬度。本发明所使用的非挥发性流动油分是在常温(25℃)下具有流动性的(液状的)非挥发性油分，可选自能够用于化妆品等的油分。例如可列举：常压下的沸点高于260℃的油性成分即烃油及/或硅油，这些可使用1种或2种以上。
作为非挥发性流动油分的具体例，可列举：亚麻仁油、山茶油、澳洲胡桃油、玉米油、橄榄油、鳄梨油、山茶花油、蓖麻油、红花油、杏仁油(apricot kernel oil)、肉桂油、葡萄油、杏仁油(almond oil)、菜籽油、芝麻油、葵花籽油、小麦胚芽油、米胚芽油、米糠油、棉籽油、大豆油、花生油、茶籽油、月见草油、蛋黄油、肝油、三甘油、三辛酸甘油酯、三异棕榈酸甘油酯等液状油脂；辛酸鲸蜡酯等辛酸酯、三-2-乙基己酸甘油酯、四-2-乙基己酸季戊四醇酯等异辛酸酯、月桂酸己酯等月桂酸酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯等肉豆蔻酸酯、棕榈酸辛酯等棕榈酸酯、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯等硬脂酸酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯等异硬脂酸酯、异棕榈酸辛酯等异棕榈酸酯、油酸异癸酯等油酸酯、己二酸二异丙酯等己二酸二酯、癸二酸二乙酯等癸二酸二酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯等酯油；液体石蜡、角鲨烷等液体烃油；进而，作为硅油的二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、甲基氢聚硅氧烷等链状有机硅、氨基改性有机硅、聚醚改性有机硅、羧基改性有机硅、烷基改性有机硅、铵盐改性有机硅、氟改性有机硅等。
在本发明的化妆品中配合非挥发性流动油分的情况下，其配合量通常为30质量％以下，优选为20质量％以下。
(I)粉末成分
本发明的化妆品也可含有能够配合于皮肤用化妆品中的各种粉末成分。作为粉末成分的具体例，可列举：滑石、高岭土、云母、二氧化硅、沸石等无机粉末；有机硅树脂粉末、聚酰胺树脂粉末(尼龙粉末)、聚乙烯粉末、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末、聚苯乙烯粉末、苯乙烯与丙烯酸的共聚物树脂粉末、纤维素粉末等有机粉末；二氧化钛、氧化锌等无机白色颜料；氧化铁(氧化铁红)等无机红色系颜料；氧化铁黄、黄赭石等无机黄色系颜料；氧化铁黑、炭黑等黑色系颜料；氧化铬、氢氧化铬、钛酸钴等无机绿色系颜料；群青、铁蓝等无机蓝色系颜料；氧化钛覆盖云母、着色氧化钛覆盖云母、氧氯化铋、鱼鳞箔等珠光颜料；铝粉、铜粉等金属粉末颜料；红色201号、红色202号、红色204号、红色205号、红色220号、红色226号、红色228号、红色405号、橙色203号、橙色204号、黄色205号、黄色401号、及蓝色404号等有机颜料；红色3号、红色104号、红色106号、红色227号、红色230号、红色401号、红色505号、橙色205号、黄色4号、黄色5号、黄色202号、黄色203号、绿色3号及蓝色1号等锆、钡或铝色淀等有机颜料；叶绿素、β-胡萝卜素等天然色素。其中，通过配合有机硅树脂粉末，使用性进一步改善。
在本发明的化妆品中配合粉末成分的情况下，其配合量通常为1～10质量％，优选为2～5质量％。
(J)其他任意成分
作为上述以外的任意成分，例如可列举：增稠剂、神经酰胺类、维生素类、紫外线吸收剂、螯合剂、杀菌剂、防腐剂、植物提取液、氨基酸、各种化学剂、乙醇等低级醇类等。
本发明的化妆品可依照一直以来用于油包水型乳化化妆品的方法而制造。简言之，可通过如下方式制造，即，一面将油性成分与水性成分分别根据需要进行加热一面混合，在油相中使水相乳化，继而将得到的乳化物填充至容器中并进行冷却。
本发明的化妆品为膏状但在涂抹时发挥如在肌肤上融化般塌陷的独特的使用触感。而且，在肌肤上展开的覆膜发挥优异的保湿效果，并且通过稳定地配合的各种化学剂也发挥优异的美容效果。
因此，本发明的化妆品尤其适宜用作配合有美白成分等化学剂的美容膏、或保湿效果优异的基底膏，另外，适宜用作赋予紫外线防御效果、SPF(Sun Protection Factor，防晒系数)的防晒制剂、使头发具有适度的湿润的护发制剂，也可用作享受香味的香膏。
实施例
以下，列举实施例对本发明进而进行详细叙述，但本发明并不受这些实施例任何限定。需要说明的是，配合量若无特别记载，则意指质量％。
根据下述表1～4所示的配方制备油包水型乳化化妆品，并依照下述评价方法、评价基准对它们的特性进行评价。将这些结果一起示于表。
“乳化稳定性”
将受验试样于50℃下放置4周后，恢复至室温，目视观察状态，根据以下基准进行评价。
A：无异常。
B：略微地观察到分离。
C：观察到分离。
“融化感”
用手将受验试样涂抹于女性官能鉴定员20人的上腕部，针对涂抹中的融化感(＝如融化般渗透的触感)进行问卷调查，根据以下基准进行评价。
AA：回答为如融化般渗透的官能鉴定员为16人以上。
A：回答为如融化般渗透的官能鉴定员为12～15人。
B：回答为如融化般渗透的官能鉴定员为8～11人。
C：回答为如融化般渗透的官能鉴定员为7人以下。
[表1]
[表2]
[表3]
[表4]
由上述表1～4所示的结果明确，不含蜡的比较例1的乳化稳定性不充分，也无法得到涂抹在肌肤时的独特的触感。另外，不含挥发性油分的比较例2虽然可稳定地乳化，但无法得到独特的使用触感。相对于这些，本发明的化妆品(实施例1～12、14～17)的乳化稳定性及使用触感均优异。需要说明的是，挥发性油与蜡的配合量比率超过50的实施例13为于实际应用中无问题的程度，但发现特性略微降低。
其次，测定关于上述实施例6及作为比较例3的配合乳木果油的市售品(商品名：L’Occitane Shea Hand Cream)的流变特性。
流变测定是使用流变计(Anton-Paar公司制造的MCR301，50mmφ的锥板)，在温度32℃下，一面以1[1/s]的角频率将施加至测定样品的应变(γ)自0.05增加至500一面进行。将结果示于图1。
如图1所示，本发明的实施例6及作为含有乳木果油的霜的比较例3的储能模量(G’)及损耗模量(G”)均随着应变增大而降低。但是，本发明的实施例中，在应变＝约1的点处，tanδ(＝G”(损耗模量)/G’(储能模量))成为“1”，自弹性优势变化为粘性优势，相对于此，比较例中，tanδ＝1的点偏向应变较大的侧。即，比较例中，在难以渗透至肌肤的状态下，粘度急剧降低，相对于此，本发明的实施例显示出可得到在肌肤上逐渐融化渗透的触感。
以下示出本发明的化妆品的其他配方例。需要说明的是，本发明并不限定于本配方例。
配方例1：美白膏
配方例2：美容膏
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Claims (4)
1.一种油包水型乳化化妆品，其特征在于，含有：
(A)0.1～5.0质量％的有机改性粘土矿物、
(B)0.1～5.0质量％的HLB6以下的表面活性剂、
(C)1～15质量％的蜡、
(D)0.5～5质量％的有机硅弹性体、
(E)20～50质量％的挥发性油分、及
(F)60质量％以下的水，
所述(B)组分选自聚醚改性有机硅、失水山梨醇脂肪酸酯类、甘油脂肪酸酯类或聚氧乙烯氢化蓖麻油；
所述(C)组分选自地蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、木蜡、小烛树蜡、米糠蜡、蜂蜡、虫胶蜡或虫蜡；
所述(D)组分选自由聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、(聚二甲基硅氧烷/苯基二乙烯基聚甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、(聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、(聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷)交联聚合物、以及(二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基二苯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/倍半硅氧烷)交联聚合物构成的组；
所述(E)组分选自常压下沸点260℃以下的异链烷烃系烃油或硅油。
2.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品，其中，所述(E)挥发性油分与所述(C)蜡的配合量比率([(E)/(C)])为50以下。
3.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品，其还含有选自有机硅树脂粉末及聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯粉末中的至少1种粉末成分。
4.根据权利要求1所述的化妆品，其为具有5～200的硬度的固体或半固体。
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| PCT/JP2018/032410 WO2019045056A1 (ja) | 2017-09-01 | 2018-08-31 | 油中水型乳化化粧料 |
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| CN106561081A (zh) * | 2015-08-03 | 2017-04-12 | 株式会社资生堂 | 油包水型乳化固体化妆品 |
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| US20080038216A1 (en) | 2006-08-11 | 2008-02-14 | Joseph Michael Zukowski | Personal care composition |
| FR2916630B1 (fr) * | 2007-06-01 | 2009-07-24 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique comprenant des cires et des elastomeres de silicone. |
| EP2556822B1 (en) | 2010-04-07 | 2016-09-28 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Solid emulsified cosmetic |
| FR2986427B1 (fr) * | 2012-02-06 | 2017-03-17 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules d'aerogel de silice et un elastomere de silicone emulsionnant |
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| CN107072919A (zh) * | 2014-10-31 | 2017-08-18 | 株式会社资生堂 | 油包水型乳化防晒化妆品 |
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| WO2017167667A1 (en) * | 2016-03-31 | 2017-10-05 | L'oreal | Aqueous emulsion comprising a silicone-based dendritic polymer, a silicone gum and a semi-crystalline polymer or a wax and treatment of the lips |
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| JP2009137900A (ja) * | 2007-12-07 | 2009-06-25 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 油中水型固形乳化化粧料及びその製造方法 |
| CN106456510A (zh) * | 2014-05-14 | 2017-02-22 | 株式会社资生堂 | 补水保湿用棒状化妆品 |
| CN106561081A (zh) * | 2015-08-03 | 2017-04-12 | 株式会社资生堂 | 油包水型乳化固体化妆品 |
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