CN110859762A - Gel containing Camellia japonica extract and having after-sun repair effect and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a gel containing camellia extract and having a repairing effect after sun exposure and a preparation method thereof, wherein the gel comprises the following components, by weight, 5-20% of an inclusion of the camellia extract, 10-40% of aloe leaf juice, 0.1-1% of asiaticoside, 0.1-1% of a sophora flavescens root extract, 0.1-1% of β -glucan, 0.01-0.2% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1-1% of a thickening agent, 0.1-1% of a preservative, and the balance of deionized water.

Description

Gel containing Camellia japonica extract and having after-sun repair effect and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics; in particular to a gel containing camellia extract and having the effect of after-sun repair and a preparation method thereof.

Background

In summer, if the effective protection measures cannot be taken by workers working outdoors for a long time, after strong sunlight irradiation, ultraviolet rays can stimulate the skin to release a series of inflammatory mediators, for example, keratinocytes in the epidermis release a large amount of free radicals under the action of the ultraviolet rays, the free radicals can degrade phospholipid molecules of cell membranes, primary inflammatory factors are synthesized under the action of enzymes, and the other way of the free radicals is to up-regulate nuclear transcription enzyme NF-kB and promote DNA to express more secondary inflammatory factors, namely tumor necrosis factor TNF- α and interleukin IL-1.

The tea oil can be used for treating trauma and scald, diminishing inflammation, promoting granulation, resisting ultraviolet, and preventing skin diseases such as eczema and skin pruritus, and is recorded in Chinese pharmacopoeia and the like. Modern researches find that the flowers, leaves, seeds and other parts of the camellia from natural sources are rich in various bioactive components such as flavone, polyphenol, VE, oleic acid, squalene, phytosterol and the like and nutrient elements such as calcium, potassium, magnesium, manganese and the like, and have good effect of repairing skin barriers.

A skin moisture loss tester can measure the concentration gradient of water evaporation on the surface of skin, and the TEWL value is determined by the integrity of the skin barrier function. The barrier function of the injured skin after ultraviolet irradiation is incomplete, and the TEWL value is higher than that of normal skin, which is caused by loss of moisture content of the horny layer.

The after-sun repair skin care products in the prior art generally contain a certain amount of chemical components, have certain damage to the skin, and certain chemical elements can also increase the burden of sunburn skin. Therefore, the development of natural skin care products which are pure natural, quick in action, good in effect, free of side effects or side effects and used for repairing the skin after sunburn is urgently needed.

According to the search, the prior patent document CN108553389A discloses a plant moisturizing after-sun repair cream, which comprises 5-8% of coix seed extract, 6-10% of orange flower extract, 3-5% of tremella extract, 2-4% of centella asiatica extract, 4-6% of aloe extract, 1.5-3% of edelweiss extract, 10-15% of mixed pure water, 0.2-0.5% of α -bisabolol, 0.2-0.4% of trehalose, 0.2-0.5% of red wine polyphenol, 1.5-2.5% of gamma-polyglutamic acid, 0.8-1.2% of hydrolyzed collagen peptide, 0.8-1.2% of sweet almond oil, 0.4-0.7% of camellia oil, 0.6-1% of grape seed oil, 0.1-0.3% of lavender essential oil, 6-10% of humectant, 1.5-3% of wheat germ emulsifier, 0.6-1% of hydrogenated lecithin, 0.2-0.5% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, and the balance of spring oil.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a gel containing camellia extract and having the effect of after-sun repair and a preparation method thereof.

The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

the invention provides a gel containing camellia extract and having a post-basking repair effect, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

inclusion of camellia extract: 5 to 20 percent of

Aloe leaf juice: 10 to 40 percent of

Asiaticoside: 0.1 to 1 percent

Extract of kuh-seng root: 0.1 to 1 percent

β -dextran 0.1-1%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: 0.01 to 0.2 percent

Sodium hyaluronate: 0.01 to 0.1 percent

Thickening agent: 0.1 to 1 percent

Preservative: 0.1 to 1 percent

Deionized water: the balance;

the gel with the after-sun repairing effect also comprises a pH regulator which is added to be adjusted to be neutral.

Preferably, the preparation method of the camellia extract inclusion is as follows:

weighing a certain amount of hydrogenated lecithin, sterols, ceramides and camellia extract, adding into polyalcohol, stirring, heating to 80-90 deg.C, homogenizing at high speed for 5-10 min, stirring, cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding menthol lactate until stirring to dissolve, and cooling to normal temperature to obtain the inclusion of camellia extract.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the hydrogenated lecithin, the sterols, the ceramides, the camellia extract, the polyhydric alcohol and the menthol lactate is 20-40:1-5:1-5:1-5: 50-70: 0.01-0.2. Because the formula of the invention is an aqueous solution, no solubilizer is used, and the menthol lactate can not be directly added into the system, the menthol lactate and the camellia extract are wrapped together, so that the problem that the menthol lactate can not be directly added into the aqueous solution system is solved.

Preferably, the phosphatidylcholine content in the hydrogenated lecithin is not less than 80%.

Preferably, the sterols include at least one of cholesterol, phytosterols, and esters thereof.

Preferably, the camellia extract comprises camellia seed oil, camellia extract and camellia leaf extract in a mass ratio of 1:0.01-0.3: 0.01-0.3.

Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol comprises at least one of butylene glycol, glycerol, methyl propylene glycol, diglycerol, and dipropylene glycol.

Preferably, in the preparation process of the gel with the after-sun repairing effect, the thickening agent is at least one of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and carbomer; the preservative is selected from methyl hydroxybenzoate and chlorphenesin; the pH regulator is one of sodium hydroxide, tromethamine and arginine.

The camellia extract is wrapped by the liposome, has extremely high biocompatibility, and can be used for remarkably improving the absorption rate and the action efficiency of the skin on active ingredients under the synergistic action of other functional ingredients. And the inclusion is adopted to facilitate the use of oily materials in an aqueous product system, so that the use of a solubilizer is avoided, and the application range of the product is changed.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the gel containing the camellia extract and having the effect of after-sun repair, which comprises the following steps:

s1, uniformly stirring deionized water, aloe leaf juice, a thickening agent and sodium hyaluronate, and homogenizing to obtain a mixed solution;

s2, heating the mixed solution to 80-85 ℃, adding a pH regulator, regulating the pH to be neutral, and then cooling;

s3, cooling the mixed solution processed in the step S2 to 70-80 ℃, adding a preservative, and dissolving and stirring uniformly;

s4, pre-dispersing asiaticoside and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate with water, heating to 40-50 ℃, fully stirring until the mixture is completely transparent, and then adding the mixture into the mixed solution which is cooled to 40-50 ℃ and treated in the step S3;

s5, adding the inclusion of the camellia extract into the material obtained in the step S4, and uniformly stirring;

s6, when the temperature of the mixed liquid obtained after the treatment in the step S5 is continuously reduced to 40 +/-2 ℃, β -glucan and the extract of the sophora flavescens roots are added, and the mixture is stirred uniformly, detected and discharged.

The camellia extract: the tea oil can be used for treating trauma and scald, diminishing inflammation, promoting granulation, resisting ultraviolet, and preventing skin diseases such as eczema and skin pruritus, and is recorded in Chinese pharmacopoeia and the like. Modern researches also show that beneficial bioactive substances such as squalene, tea polyphenol, unsaturated fatty acid, flavonoid compounds and the like in the camellia seed oil enable the camellia seed oil to have good effects of resisting oxidation, preventing radiation, locking water, preserving moisture, inhibiting bacteria and resisting inflammation, and the camellia seed oil also plays a role in resisting inflammation and treating diseases through the antioxidant active substances. Oleic acid in the camellia seed oil is similar to fatty acid in human skin in structure, influences stratum corneum lipid structure, changes the structure of stratum corneum lipid, changes lipid fluidity, promotes absorption of substances with cosmetic efficacy, and plays a role in synergy. The camellia oil absorbed by permeation can also form a protective film on the surface layer of the skin, so that the effects of locking water and keeping moisture are achieved.

In addition, modern researches find that the flowers, leaves, seeds and other parts of the camellia which is a natural source are rich in various bioactive components such as flavone, polyphenol, vitamin E, oleic acid, squalene, phytosterol and the like and nutrient elements such as calcium, potassium, magnesium, manganese and the like, and the camellia has the effects of supplementing nutrient components required by skin, resisting oxidation and well repairing skin barriers. (repair of skin barrier, anti-inflammatory, synergistic, moisturizing, antioxidant).

Asiaticoside: mainly from centella asiatica, the topical application of its extract has traditionally been used to remove scars and diminish inflammation (repair skin barrier).

Aloe vera: if the skin has itching, the fresh aloe juice can be applied on the affected part to relieve itching without side effect of antihistamine in western medicine. The aloe gel selected in the experiment has the main component of aloe polysaccharide, removes barbaloin substances, and reduces the stimulation (itching relieving) to the skin.

The root of the Sophora flavescens ait contains various alkaloids with medicinal effects, and the root extract has extremely strong anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects, can reduce the release of inflammatory mediators, is an excellent immunosuppressant, and has very good relieving effects (anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and itching relieving) on skin pruritus symptoms.

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: the glycyrrhetinic acid in the dipotassium glycyrrhizinate has a chemical structure similar to that of adrenocortical hormone, and can regulate the excitability of cholinergic regulatory nerves by acting on hormone receptors on cell membranes, so that the permeability of capillary vessel walls and the cell membranes is reduced, inflammatory exudation is reduced, and the formation and release of histamine and other toxic substances are inhibited, thereby achieving a good anti-inflammatory effect. Generally used as an anti-allergy agent, an anti-inflammatory agent and an immunomodulator, can reduce and slow down irritation, prevent skin injury after sunburn and eliminate inflammation of the skin after sunburn (the anti-inflammatory agent and the immunomodulator).

Sodium hyaluronate: the skin moisturizing cream has a high molecular structure, can combine water which is 1000 times of the self weight, and a network structure formed after the sodium hyaluronate absorbs water, and can prevent the skin water from flowing and volatilizing when being applied to cosmetics, thereby reducing the skin water evaporation rate (a moisturizing agent).

The active structure of BETA-glucan β -glucan is polysaccharide composed of glucose units, β -glucan can improve moisture content of horny layer, has long-acting moisturizing effect, can improve immunity of skin cells, has anti-inflammatory and anti-allergy effects, and has repairing effect on skin after sunburn

Menthol lactate: has good cooling and refreshing effects, and can delight mood. Compared with menthol, the modified menthol lactate has multiple advantages. (1) The long-acting cooling effect can be achieved through slow release; (2) the mint flavor is light, has light faint scent, is easy to cover by essence and spice when being added into cosmetics, and does not interfere the use of the essence and the spice; (3) has good solubility, is colorless and odorless after being dissolved, and can be widely applied to cosmetics. (4) The menthol lactate is safe and non-irritant, does not produce burning sensation, and can be used for infant products.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

according to the invention, 7 functional components of aloe leaf juice, asiaticoside, a radix sophorae flavescentis extract, a camellia extract inclusion, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium hyaluronate and β -glucan are compounded according to an optimal proportion, so that the skin inflammation can be effectively relieved, the skin barrier can be repaired, the water can be supplemented and the moisture can be maintained, and the discomfort caused by strong sunlight irradiation to the skin can be effectively relieved.

The invention adopts the gel form, can reduce the sticky feeling of the grease skin care product when used in summer, and improves the comfort level of users.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific examples. The following examples will assist those skilled in the art in further understanding the invention, but are not intended to limit the invention in any way. It should be noted that variations and modifications can be made by persons skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention. All falling within the scope of the present invention.

The following example provides a gel containing camellia extract and having a post-basking repair effect, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

inclusion of camellia extract: 5 to 20 percent of

Aloe leaf juice: 10 to 40 percent of

Asiaticoside: 0.1 to 1 percent

Extract of kuh-seng root: 0.1 to 1 percent

β -dextran 0.1-1%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: 0.01 to 0.2 percent

Sodium hyaluronate: 0.01 to 0.1 percent

Thickening agent: 0.1 to 1 percent

Preservative: 0.1 to 1 percent

Deionized water: the balance;

the gel with the after-sun repairing effect also comprises a pH regulator which is added to be adjusted to be neutral.

The preparation method of the camellia extract inclusion comprises the following steps:

weighing a certain amount of hydrogenated lecithin, sterols, ceramides and camellia extract, adding into polyalcohol, stirring, heating to 80-90 deg.C, homogenizing at high speed for 5-10 min, stirring, cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding menthol lactate until stirring to dissolve, and cooling to normal temperature to obtain the inclusion of camellia extract.

In the preparation process, the weight ratio of the hydrogenated lecithin, the sterols, the ceramides, the camellia extract, the polyhydric alcohol and the menthol lactate is (20-40: 1-5:1-5:1-5: 50-70): 0.01-0.2.

In the preparation process, the content of phosphatidylcholine in the hydrogenated lecithin is not less than 80%.

In the preparation process, the sterol comprises at least one of cholesterol, phytosterol and esters thereof.

In the preparation process, the camellia extract comprises camellia seed oil, camellia extract and camellia leaf extract in a mass ratio of 1:0.01-0.3: 0.01-0.3.

In the preparation process, the polyalcohol comprises at least one of butanediol, glycerol, methyl propylene glycol, diglycerol and dipropylene glycol.

The inclusion containing the camellia extract can be prepared by adopting the conditions.

Examples 1 to 4

Examples 1-4 provide a gel having a post-basking repair effect containing camellia extract, the components and percentages of which are shown in table 1. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

1) sequentially adding water, aloe leaf juice, thickener and sodium hyaluronate into an emulsifying pot, stirring and dispersing uniformly, and homogenizing for 5min at a homogenizing frequency of 45Hz and a stirring frequency of 20Hz to obtain a mixed solution;

2) heating the mixed solution to 80-85 deg.C, adding appropriate amount of pH regulator (sodium hydroxide), adjusting to neutral pH, and cooling;

3) cooling to 70-80 deg.C, adding antiseptic, dissolving, and stirring;

4) pre-dispersing asiaticoside and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate with water, heating to 40-50 deg.C, stirring thoroughly to completely transparent, and adding when the temperature of emulsifying pot is reduced to 40-50 deg.C;

5) adding the inclusion of Camellia japonica extract when the temperature of the emulsifying pot is 40-50 deg.C, and stirring;

6) cooling, sequentially adding β -dextran and radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract when the temperature is 40 + -2 deg.C, stirring, detecting, and discharging.

The thickening agent is carbomer, and the preservative is methylparaben and chlorphenesin.

The preparation method of the inclusion of the camellia extract comprises the following steps: weighing a certain amount of hydrogenated lecithin, phytosterol oleate, ceramide II and camellia extract according to the weight ratio (the hydrogenated lecithin: the phytosterol oleate: the ceramide II: the camellia extract: the butanediol: the menthol lactate: 30:2.5:2.5:2.5:60:0.05), adding the hydrogenated lecithin, the phytosterol oleate, the ceramide II and the camellia extract into butanediol, stirring and heating to 85 ℃, then homogenizing at a high speed for 5 minutes, continuing stirring, adding the menthol lactate when cooling to 40 ℃, stirring and dissolving, and then continuing cooling to normal temperature to obtain the inclusion of the camellia extract.

TABLE 1

Comparative example 1

This comparative example is essentially the same as example 1 except that: in this comparative example, the inclusion instead of the camellia extract was directly added with the camellia extract, and an emulsifier (hydrogenated lecithin) was added so that the camellia extract could be uniformly dispersed in the system, and the content of the camellia extract was the same as that of example 1.

Comparative example 2

This comparative example is essentially the same as example 3, except that: in the comparative example, the inclusion content of the camellia extract is 3%, and the asiaticoside content is 3%.

Comparative example 3

This comparative example is essentially the same as example 4, except that: in this comparative example, the aloe leaf juice content was 5%, the sophora flavescens root extract content was 2%, and the remaining reduced aloe leaf juice content was replaced with deionized water.

Comparative example 4

This comparative example is substantially the same as example 1 except that in this comparative example, no extract of Sophora flavescens ait roots was added and the β -glucan content was 1%.

Effect verification:

1. randomly selecting 80 persons engaged in outdoor operation in summer as test subjects, wherein the age range is 30-55 years, dividing the test subjects into 8 groups of 10 persons, and respectively using the test products. After waiting for a room to sit still for 30 minutes, the face of the testee is tested, the water content of the horny layer of the cheek and the water loss of the cheek through the epidermis are respectively measured before, 12 hours after and 36 hours after the test product is used, and the data are the average value of each group of testees. The resulting transepidermal water loss rate and stratum corneum water content are shown in tables 2 and 3.

TABLE 2 Perkin Water loss Rate

TABLE 3 moisture content of stratum corneum

2. The inner side of the crank arm of 80 subjects was selected as a test area. 10 persons in group, the mark positions of the subareas are as follows: a 3cm multiplied by 3cm area is defined at the position which is far from the width of three fingers of the wrist and is marked as sample restoration; and the other arm demarcates a 3cm multiplied by 3cm area in the corresponding area of the sample repairing group, and marks the area as natural repairing. The natural repair is not smeared with any sample.

Sample repair was tested using a single induction of 200 μ l of 0.5% SLS solution, 2h after stimulation with the patch removed (containing an environmental acclimation time of half an hour). After the instrument test was completed, the sample was used again, 0.5g was used in the sample area, and then carefully smeared in the area. The volunteers should clean the skin every day and then smear the product on the sample area, and return visits are carried out for 24h, 48h and 96h, the test sample is washed off during the return visits, and then the instrument is carried out to test the content of the haematochrome (EI value) after the environment is adapted for 30 minutes, and the data is the average value of the test data of each group of subjects. The results are shown in Table 4.

TABLE 4 blood Red pigment content (EI value)

3. Evaluation of antipruritic Effect

The antipruritic effect of the repaired area of the sample was evaluated after 5 and 30 minutes of sample application. Very preferably 9 to 10 minutes, preferably 7 to 8 minutes, generally 5 to 6 minutes, less preferably 3 to 4 minutes, and very preferably 1 to 2 minutes. The data in table 5 is the average of the data evaluated for each group of subjects, 10 subjects in one group, and 80 subjects in total.

TABLE 5 evaluation of antipruritic Effect

Recipe number	5 minutes after application	Smearing for 30 minutes
			Example 1	9	8
Example 2	9	8
			Example 3	9	8
Example 4	8	7
			Comparative example 1	6	4
Comparative example 2	5	3
			Comparative example 3	6	4
Comparative example 4	7	4

The invention has many applications, and the above description is only a preferred embodiment of the invention. It should be noted that the above examples are only for illustrating the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications can be made without departing from the principles of the invention and these modifications are to be considered within the scope of the invention.

Claims (9)

1. A gel containing camellia extract and having a post-basking repair effect is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by weight:

inclusion of camellia extract: 5 to 20 percent of

Aloe leaf juice: 10 to 40 percent of

Asiaticoside: 0.1 to 1 percent

Extract of kuh-seng root: 0.1 to 1 percent

β -dextran 0.1-1%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: 0.01 to 0.2 percent

Sodium hyaluronate: 0.01 to 0.1 percent

Thickening agent: 0.1 to 1 percent

Preservative: 0.1 to 1 percent

Deionized water: the balance;

the gel with the after-sun repairing effect also comprises a pH regulator which is added to be adjusted to be neutral.

2. The gel with the effect of repairing after sun containing camellia extract as claimed in claim 1, wherein the inclusion body of camellia extract is prepared by the following method:

weighing a certain amount of hydrogenated lecithin, sterols, ceramides and camellia extract, adding into polyalcohol, stirring, heating to 80-90 deg.C, homogenizing at high speed for 5-10 min, stirring, cooling to 40-45 deg.C, adding menthol lactate until stirring to dissolve, and cooling to normal temperature to obtain the inclusion of camellia extract.

3. The gel with the effect of repairing after sun containing camellia extract as claimed in claim 2, wherein the weight ratio of the hydrogenated lecithin, the sterol, the ceramide, the camellia extract, the polyhydric alcohol and the menthol lactate is 20-40:1-5:1-5:1-5: 50-70: 0.01-0.2.

4. The gel with the effect of repairing after sun containing camellia extract as claimed in claim 2, wherein the content of phosphatidylcholine in the hydrogenated lecithin is not less than 80%.

5. The gel with the effect of repairing after sun containing camellia japonica extract as claimed in claim 2, wherein the sterol comprises at least one of cholesterol, phytosterol and esters thereof.

6. The gel with the effect of repairing after sun containing camellia extract as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the camellia extract comprises camellia seed oil, camellia extract and camellia leaf extract in a mass ratio of 1:0.01-0.3: 0.01-0.3.

7. The gel with the effect of repairing after sun containing camellia extract as claimed in claim 2, wherein the polyol comprises at least one of butylene glycol, glycerol, methyl propylene glycol, diglycerol, and dipropylene glycol.

8. The gel with the effect of repairing after sun containing camellia extract as claimed in claim 1, wherein the thickener is at least one selected from the group consisting of acrylates/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer and carbomers; the preservative is selected from methyl hydroxybenzoate and chlorphenesin; the pH regulator is one of sodium hydroxide, tromethamine and arginine.

9. A method for preparing a gel containing camellia extract with a post-basking repairing effect according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:

s1, uniformly stirring deionized water, aloe leaf juice, a thickening agent and sodium hyaluronate, and homogenizing to obtain a mixed solution;

s2, heating the mixed solution to 80-85 ℃, adding a pH regulator, regulating the pH to be neutral, and then cooling;

s3, cooling the mixed solution processed in the step S2 to 70-80 ℃, adding a preservative, and dissolving and stirring uniformly;

s4, pre-dispersing asiaticoside and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate with water, heating to 40-50 ℃, fully stirring until the mixture is completely transparent, and then adding the mixture into the mixed solution which is cooled to 40-50 ℃ and treated in the step S3;

s5, adding the inclusion of the camellia extract into the material obtained in the step S4, and uniformly stirring;

s6, when the temperature of the mixed liquid obtained after the treatment in the step S5 is continuously reduced to 40 +/-2 ℃, β -glucan and the extract of the sophora flavescens roots are added, and the mixture is stirred uniformly, detected and discharged.