CN110699956A - 一种羊毛面料的制备方法 - Google Patents
一种羊毛面料的制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN110699956A CN110699956A CN201910928234.5A CN201910928234A CN110699956A CN 110699956 A CN110699956 A CN 110699956A CN 201910928234 A CN201910928234 A CN 201910928234A CN 110699956 A CN110699956 A CN 110699956A
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- wool
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- quaternary ammonium
- ammonium base
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Abstract
本发明涉及面料领域，公开了一种羊毛面料的制备方法，如下步骤：（1）编织：将含羊毛纱线编织成坯布；（2）浸洗：将坯布通过含甲壳胺和咪唑啉季铵碱的混合液浸洗；（3）烘干：将浸洗后的坯布烘干除水；（4）打卷：将烘干除水后的坯布打卷。本发明具有以下优点和效果：甲壳胺和咪唑啉季铵碱混合液的使用有效提高羊毛面料的阻燃性和抗菌性能，且减少生产步骤，降低生产成本。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及面料领域，特别涉及一种羊毛面料的制备方法。
背景技术
羊毛纤维是纺织工业的重要原料，由于其具有吸湿性好、保暖舒适、手感柔软丰满等优异性能，而成为高档的纺织消费品之一。羊毛纤维作为一种含有角蛋白的天然纤维，与其他纤维相比，羊毛具有一定的阻燃性能，但其阻燃性仍然不能满足服饰使用中阻燃的性能要求。
同时，羊毛纤维的微孔结构及角蛋白成分为细菌滋生提供了水分及营养，因此由羊毛纤维制成的服饰容易滋生细菌从而造成面料的蛀蚀。
现有羊毛面料在解决因天然纤维本身所存在的阻燃性能低的问题上会在羊毛面料的制造过程中添加阻燃剂，从而提高羊毛面料的阻燃性能。解决因天然纤维本身所存在的易滋生细菌的问题会在羊毛面料中的制造过程中添加抗菌剂。其阻燃剂和抗菌剂都是单独添加，其不仅增加了生产步骤，而且增加了原料的使用，提高了生产成本。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其通过甲壳胺和咪唑啉季铵碱混合液的使用有效提高羊毛面料的阻燃性和抗菌性能，且减少生产步骤，降低生产成本。
本发明的上述技术目的是通过以下技术方案得以实现的：一种羊毛面料的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)编织：将含羊毛纱线编织成坯布；
(2)浸洗：将坯布通过含甲壳胺和咪唑啉季铵碱的混合液浸洗；
(3)烘干：将浸洗后的坯布烘干除水；
(4)打卷：将烘干除水后的坯布打卷。
通过采用上述技术方案，通过甲壳胺的羊毛纤维能够有效提高其阻燃性能和抗菌性能。甲壳胺不溶于中性和碱性溶液，但可与无机酸和有机酸如谷氨酸、盐酸、乳酸和醋酸形成盐。因此由甲壳胺处理过的羊毛面料一旦遇到酸性液体，甲壳胺就会直接与酸反应形成盐，从而降低羊毛面料的阻燃性能和抗菌性能。咪唑啉季铵碱中由于羟基呈负离子存在，类似无机碱，具有较强的碱性，在酸性条件下，咪唑啉季铵碱可优先与酸中的释放的氢离子结合，而使得甲壳胺与酸反应生成盐的过程减缓，从而降低通过甲壳胺处理的羊毛纤维因受到酸的影响而降低其阻燃性能和抗菌性能。
同时咪唑啉季铵碱不仅能够减缓甲壳胺与酸反应生成盐，而且咪唑啉季铵碱能够羊毛面料的柔软度，提高面料的手感。
本发明进一步设置为，步骤(1)中含羊毛纱线由羊毛、锦纶、氨纶、人棉和腈纶，且所述羊毛、锦纶、氨纶、人棉和腈纶的重量百分比为：
通过采用上述技术方案，人棉吸湿性符合人体皮肤的生理要求，具有光滑凉爽、透气、抗静电、防紫外线，色彩绚丽，染色牢度较好。
腈纶腈纶织物染色鲜艳，耐光性属各种纤维织物之首；同时其耐磨性是各种合成纤维织物中最好。腈纶会存在吸湿性较差的问题，而人棉与腈纶的混合就能解决腈纶吸湿性较差的问题。
锦纶突出的优点是耐磨性高于其他所有纤维，比棉花耐磨性高10倍，比羊毛高20倍，在混纺织物中稍加入锦纶，可大大提高其耐磨性。
氨纶弹性优异，而强度比乳胶丝高2～3倍，线密度也更细，并且更耐化学降解；氨纶的耐酸碱性、耐汗、耐海水性、耐干洗性、耐磨性均较好。
本发明进一步设置为，步骤(2)中混合液包括甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱和去离子水，且甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱和去离子水的重量百分比为：
甲壳胺 10—15％；
咪唑啉季铵碱 8—12％；
余量为去离子水。
通过采用上述技术方案，咪唑啉季铵碱是碱性物质，咪唑啉季铵碱的加入能够提高水溶液呈碱性；而碱性溶液能够提高甲壳胺的溶解度。
本发明进一步设置为，混合液还包括蛋白酶，且蛋白酶、甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱和去离子水的重量百分比为：
甲壳胺 10—15％；
咪唑啉季铵碱 8—12％；
蛋白酶 1—3％；
余量为去离子水。
通过采用上述技术方案，溶解于水的甲壳胺属于假塑型流体且无触变性，因此甲壳胺溶于水的含量直接影响甲壳胺溶液的黏度。蛋白酶的加入也能够影响甲壳胺溶液的黏度，从而提高甲壳胺溶液与羊毛纤维的黏度，提高羊毛纤维阻燃性能和抗菌性能。
本发明进一步设置为，混合液还包括二氧化钛，且二氧化钛、蛋白酶、甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱和去离子水的重量百分比为：
羊毛纤维长时间受到紫外线辐照,强力一定会有所下降,会出现泛黄现象。通过采用上述技术方案，二氧化钛的加入使羊毛面料的白度有所提高，且具有良好的抗菌性能。
本发明进一步设置为，步骤(2)中坯布浸洗前依次通过辅助剂溶液和水的喷淋，所述辅助剂溶液包括以下重量百分比的组分：
通过采用上述技术方案，甲壳胺作用于羊毛纤维时，两者不是通过络合作用而结合，只是通过分子间作用力结合，甲壳胺仅仅涂于羊毛纤维表面，而羊毛纤维本身吸附甲壳胺的量是有限的，甲壳胺在吸附达到一定量以后，甲壳胺就得到饱和，使得阻燃效果的提升有限。同时由于甲壳胺结合在羊毛纤维中，就像羊毛纤维大分子中的杂质，会影响大分子的规整性和分子间作用力，容易导致羊毛纱线中的捻合的纤维发生破捻，断裂。过醋酸的加入使得羊毛表面的长碳链类脂被氧化去除，使得羊毛表面的蛋白外露，外露的蛋白受到枯草丝氨酸蛋白酶的酶解处理，使得羊毛表面蛋白质中的肽链水解，从而使得羊毛表面的更加疏松，从而提高甲壳胺在羊毛表面的吸附上限，吸附量得到提高，从而使得阻燃性能得到提高。而且羊毛纤维水解处，会络合辅助剂中一定量的锌离子，锌离子同时也会和甲壳胺进行络合，使得甲壳胺的在羊毛表面的结合更加强。其次二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲可用于纺织物的整理起到定型的效果，浸湿有二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲溶液的坯布在烘干中能够起到定型效果，使得羊毛纤维的规整性得到提高，从而降低破捻的概率，提高羊毛纱线的捻合紧密度。
同时二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲能够促进甲壳胺与羊毛面料之间的交联性，从而在一定程度上提高甲壳胺的结合牢固性
本发明进一步设置为，步骤(3)胚布烘干后需要通过拉毛工序，在拉毛工序前将羊毛面料中的羊毛去鳞化处理。
通过采用上述技术方案，拉毛工序是用密集的钢针将面料表层的纤维剔起，形成一绒毛的整理过程，又称拉绒。绒毛层可以提高织物的暖性，改善外观并使手感柔软。
羊毛纤维外表有一种鳞片组织，这种鳞片在碱性条件下膨胀并相互摩擦导致起球严重，因此去鳞化处理后的羊毛纤维能够降低摩擦起球，从而降低面料的起球性。羊毛面料剥鳞处理提高了面料的保暖、吸湿导汗、尺寸稳定性与染色性能,可极大改善羊毛面料的服用性能。
本发明进一步设置为，所述羊毛面料通过去鳞化液体去鳞，所述去鳞化液体的重量百分比为：
角蛋白酶 10—20％；
油脂 10—15％；
余量为水。
通过采用上述技术方案，角蛋白酶能够去除羊毛纤维的鳞片，从而降低在拉毛过程中摩擦起球。油脂的加入能够提高纤维与纤维之间的螯合性，且减小纤维与纤维之间的摩擦，从而减小起球量。
本发明进一步设置为，所述羊毛面料通过去鳞化液体去鳞后碱减量处理。
通过采用上述技术方案，碱减量处理指用NaOH溶液在常温或一定温度下对面料的处理工艺,处理后的织物具有柔软的手感和柔和的光泽。同时由于去鳞化液体中含有油脂，油脂属于酯类，碱性条件下可以水解，水解后生成的酸可以与碱反应生成高级脂肪酸钠，因此去鳞化液体中油脂的存在能够避免碱减量处理中NaOH溶液过量而直接造成纤维的断裂，从而影响羊毛面料的质量。
综上所述，本发明具有以下有益效果：
1、甲壳胺的羊毛纤维能够有效提高其阻燃性能和抗菌性能，咪唑啉季铵碱在酸性介质中具有缓蚀性能，因此咪唑啉季铵碱的加入能够减缓甲壳胺与酸反应生成盐，从而降低通过甲壳胺处理的羊毛纤维因受到酸的影响而降低其阻燃性能和抗菌性能；
2、溶解于水的甲壳胺属于假塑型流体且无触变性，蛋白酶的加入也能够影响甲壳胺溶液的黏度，从而提高甲壳胺溶液与羊毛纤维的黏度，提高羊毛纤维阻燃性能和抗菌性能；
3、二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲能够促进甲壳胺与羊毛面料之间的交联性，从而提高降低甲壳胺不耐洗的问题；
4、去鳞化处理后的羊毛纤维能够降低摩擦起球，从而降低面料的抗起球性。
具体实施方式
实施例1，一种羊毛面料的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)编织：将含羊毛纱线编织成坯布；
含羊毛纱线由羊毛、锦纶、氨纶、人棉和腈纶，且所述羊毛、锦纶、氨纶、人棉和腈纶的重量百分比为：
(2)坯布浸洗前依次通过辅助剂溶液和水的喷淋。
辅助剂中各组分的重量百分比为：
再将坯布通过含甲壳胺和咪唑啉季铵碱的混合液浸洗；
混合液包括甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱、蛋白酶、二氧化钛和去离子水，且甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱、蛋白酶、二氧化钛和去离子水的重量百分比为：
(3)烘干：然后将浸洗后的坯布烘干除水。
(4)拉毛：胚布烘干后用拉毛机拉毛，在拉毛工序前将羊毛面料中的羊毛去鳞化处理，所述羊毛面料通过去鳞化液体去鳞，所述去鳞化液体的重量百分比为：
角蛋白酶 15％；
油脂 12％；
水 73％。
(5)碱减量：羊毛面料通过去鳞化液体去鳞后碱减量处理。
(6)打卷：将碱减量处理后的坯布打卷。
实施例2-5与实施例1的区别在于：含羊毛纱线中各组分按重量百分比为下表：
实施例6-14与实施例1的区别在于：混合液中各组分重量百分比为下表：
实施例15-18与实施例1的区别在于：去鳞化液体中各组分按重量百分比为下表：
实施例19-22与实施例1的区别在于：辅助剂中各组分按重量百分比为下表：
对比例
对比例1与实施例1的区别在于坯布浸洗时只添加了甲壳胺；
对比例2与实施例1的区别在于步骤(3)中坯布烘干除水前未依次通过辅助剂溶液和水的喷淋；
对比例3与实施例1的区别在于拉毛工序前，羊毛面料未使用去鳞化液体进行处理。
检测方法
面料抗菌性测试
将实施例1、对比例1、对比例2和对比例3中得到的面料分别用采用相同的离心洗衣机进行漂洗和脱水，重复20、50、100次后，对面料的抗菌性能进行测试。抗菌测试采用AATCC-90试验法：在琼脂培养基上接种试验菌(金黄色葡萄球菌)，再紧贴试样，于37℃下培养24h后，用放大镜观察菌类繁殖情况和试样周围无菌区的晕圈大小。阻止带宽度由1级到10级依次增加。阻止带宽度代表抗菌效力的大小。
结论：通过上述测试和数据可以得出，在20、50、100次水洗后，实施例1中得到面料的抗菌测试结果表明抗菌能力下降很小，而对比例1和对比例2的抗菌测试结果表明面料的抗菌能力下降很快，尤其是在多次水洗后，即50次水洗后的测试中可明显看出实施例1与对比例1和对比例2的抗菌能力差距。说明添加辅助剂进行喷淋后的坯布上的甲壳胺结合强度得到提高。其次在未水洗前实施例1的抗菌效果明显强于对比例1和对比例2，说明本发明中咪唑啉季铵碱以及辅助剂的喷淋处理对于甲壳胺在面料上的结合强度以及吸附量都有促进效果。
面料保暖性测试
采用GB T 11048-1989《纺织品保温性能试验方法》对实施例1、对比例3得到的面料进行测试，结果如下表。
| 实施例 | 保温率(％) |
| 实施例1 | 33.2％ |
| 对比例3 | 31.8％ |
通过上表的测试结果可以得知，实施例1的保温率比对比例3的保温率高，说明对羊毛用去鳞化液体进行去鳞化处理使得最后得到的面料的保温性能得到提高，证明去鳞化处理减少了面料的起球。
本具体实施例仅仅是对本发明的解释，其并不是对本发明的限制，本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改，但只要在本发明的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。
Claims (9)
1.一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是包括如下步骤：
(1)编织：将含羊毛纱线编织成坯布；
(2)浸洗：将坯布通过含甲壳胺和咪唑啉季铵碱的混合液浸洗；
(3)烘干：将浸洗后的坯布烘干除水；
(4)打卷：将烘干除水后的坯布打卷。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是：步骤(1)中含羊毛纱线由羊毛、锦纶、氨纶、人棉和腈纶，且所述羊毛、锦纶、氨纶、人棉和腈纶的重量百分比为：
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是：步骤(2)中混合液包括甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱和去离子水，且甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱和去离子水的重量百分比为：
甲壳胺 10—15％；
咪唑啉季铵碱 8—12％；
余量为去离子水。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是：混合液还包括蛋白酶，且蛋白酶、甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱和去离子水的重量百分比为：
甲壳胺 10—15％；
咪唑啉季铵碱 8—12％；
蛋白酶 1—3％；
余量为去离子水。
5.根据权利要求4所述的一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是：混合液还包括二氧化钛，且二氧化钛、蛋白酶、甲壳胺、咪唑啉季铵碱和去离子水的重量百分比为：
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是：步骤(2)中坯布浸洗前依次通过辅助剂溶液和水的喷淋，所述辅助剂溶液包括以下重量百分比的组分：
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是：步骤(3)胚布烘干后需要通过拉毛工序，在拉毛工序前将羊毛面料中的羊毛去鳞化处理。
8.根据权利要求7所述的一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是：所述羊毛面料通过去鳞化液体去鳞，所述去鳞化液体的重量百分比为：
角蛋白酶 10—20％；
油脂 10—15％；
余量为水。
9.根据权利要求8所述的一种羊毛面料的制备方法，其特征是：所述羊毛面料通过去鳞化液体去鳞后碱减量处理。
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114108151A (zh) * | 2021-12-03 | 2022-03-01 | 王文俊 | 一种抗静电柔顺羊毛面料及其制备方法 |
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