CN110327257B - Transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo - Google Patents

Transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo Download PDF

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CN110327257B
CN110327257B CN201910778703.XA CN201910778703A CN110327257B CN 110327257 B CN110327257 B CN 110327257B CN 201910778703 A CN201910778703 A CN 201910778703A CN 110327257 B CN110327257 B CN 110327257B
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amino acid
fatty acyl
salt
conditioning shampoo
transparent
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CN110327257A (en
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王会玉
薛虹宇
李华山
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Nanjing Huashi New Material Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo, which is a product without sulfate, 0 silicone oil and 0 cationic polymer; an amino acid surfactant system is adopted, an ester compound is selected, and light grease and a natural source amino acid preservative are matched to replace a common cationic high-molecular polymer, so that the transparency of a product can be kept, meanwhile, the shampoo is endowed with excellent dry and wet combing properties, the foam texture and foam stabilizing performance are improved, the conditioning performance is good, and the system is stable.

Description

Transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo and a preparation method of the shampoo composition.
Background
In recent years, as the demand for cosmetics has shifted toward "green", "safe" and "healthy", the functional appeal of shampoos has also shifted from the early cleaning and removing of dirt from hair and scalp to scalp care and hair quality repair, and long-term use of shampoos does not cause damage to or burden on scalp health and hair quality.
The shampoo is mainly composed of a surfactant, a conditioner, a nursing component, a preservative and the like, and the correct selection and the proper application of each component are particularly important. Compared with the traditional sulfate surfactant, the amino acid surfactant is good in biodegradability, green, environment-friendly, safe, mild, low in irritation, good in compatibility with skin and excellent in surface activity, and is increasingly applied to various fields. The conditioner has the main function of nursing hair, so that the hair is smooth, soft and easy to comb. Common conditioners comprise cationic polymers, silicone oils, small molecular esters, light grease, functional additives with different care effects and the like, and the research on how the conditioners are matched with a suitable system is always a key problem in the research of the field of shampoos.
The common cationic polymer conditioner has many unsolved problems in applying the common cationic polymer conditioner to the amino acid surfactant shampoo, is easy to generate floccules, is not easy to stabilize, has opaque system and insufficient conditioning performance, is easy to wind and knot dry and wet combed hair, and has poor hand feeling after being dried. Excessive conditioning will affect the rinsing performance of the shampoo, reduce the amount of foam, be difficult to rub and dry during washing hair, leave residues during rinsing, give a heavy feel to the hair, and the like.
The amino acid preservative is a natural source, is an amino acid cationic surfactant with extremely high stability, has good antistatic and conditioning effects on hair, can soften skin, can improve the smoothness, brightness and glossiness of hair, has safe and strong broad-range bactericidal capability, has effective killing and inhibiting effects on gram-negative bacteria, gram-positive bacteria, mould and saccharomycetes, has good compatibility, can be used as a hair conditioner and a skin conditioner, can be biodegraded, and is environment-friendly.
Chinese patent CN200480012183.3 discloses a cleaning composition comprising (a) a sulfate type anionic surfactant, (B) N-acylalanine or a salt thereof, and at least one compound selected from (C) an amphoteric surfactant, (D) a cationic polymer, (E) a silicone compound, and (F) an oily substance, wherein the mixing ratio of (a) and (B) is (a)/(B) 99/1-70/30 (weight percent), and the concentration of component (a) or (C) is the highest among all surfactant components of the composition. The invention provides a washing composition which takes sulfate surfactant as a main body and contains siloxane compound, and the washing composition is not easy to degrade, opaque, high in irritation, difficult to wash, large in residue, poor in refreshing feeling and not friendly to ecological environment.
Chinese patent CN201610586803.9 discloses a shampoo containing an amino acid surfactant and a preparation method thereof, wherein the shampoo comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 30-60% of anionic surfactant; 0.05 to 3 percent of cationic conditioner; 1% -15% of nonionic surfactant; the balance of water. One or more small molecular alcohols and the like adopted by the invention are known as the moisturizers, but the moisturizers are easy to wash away in the washing process, and cannot fully improve the moist feeling of scalp and hair, reduce the viscosity of the formula and increase the formula cost.
Chinese patent CN201610586803.9 discloses an amino acid shampoo composition and a preparation method thereof, wherein the amino acid shampoo composition comprises the following components by weight percent: 15% -50% of amino acid surfactant; 10 to 30 percent of alpha olefin sodium sulfonate; 10 to 50 percent of betaine surfactant. The surface activity of the amino acid surfactant is enhanced by the compounded alpha olefin sodium sulfonate, the solubilizing compatibility of the cationic conditioner polymer is improved, but the surfactant is strong in degreasing force, high in irritation, dry in skin after use, easy to itch and peel, dry and not bright in hair, non-natural in source and not green and environment-friendly.
PCT patent application WO 2017/106276 Al discloses self-thickening compositions consisting of one or more N-acyl acidic amino acids and/or one of their salts and one or more amphoteric surfactants. The invention mainly solves the problem that glutamic acid and salt systems thereof are difficult to thicken, but the composition has great limitations when being used as shampoo, less foam, dry and astringent flushing, insufficient cleaning force, incomplete washing, more dirt and conditioner residues, easy head itch and easy dandruff generation.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the technical problems of the shampoo in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo, which is a product without sulfate, 0 silicone oil and 0 cationic polymer; the amino acid surfactant system and a proper conditioner are adopted to replace a common cationic high molecular polymer, so that the product transparency can be maintained, the shampoo is endowed with excellent dry and wet combing property, the foam texture and the foam stabilizing performance are improved, the conditioning performance is good, and the system is stable.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
Figure BDA0002175889060000021
Figure BDA0002175889060000031
wherein, the conditioner consists of the following components:
Figure BDA0002175889060000032
preferably, the pH value of the shampoo is 4.5-7.5.
The conditioning shampoo is characterized in that the adopted amino acid surfactant is N-fatty acyl amino acid or salt thereof, and is selected from one or more of N-fatty acyl glutamic acid and salt thereof, N-fatty acyl glycine and salt thereof, N-fatty acyl sarcosine and salt thereof, N-fatty acyl methyl taurine and salt thereof, and N-fatty acyl alanine and salt thereof.
Further, the length of a saturated or unsaturated fatty group carbon chain in the N-fatty acyl group is 6-22 carbon atoms.
The amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine amphoteric surfactant and/or imidazoline amphoteric surfactant. The betaine type amphoteric surfactant includes one or more of carboxylic acid type betaine, sulfonic acid type betaine, phosphate type betaine, sulfate type betaine, alkyl type betaine amphoteric surfactant, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine, lauramidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine, etc. The imidazoline amphoteric surfactant is selected from sodium lauryl amphoteric acetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate and the like.
Preferably, the mass ratio of the amino acid surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is 0.2-1.0: 1.0-0.2.
Preferably, the conditioner accounts for 0.5-5% of the total amount of the shampoo in percentage by mass.
Further, in the conditioner,
the ester compound is selected from small molecular esters, preferably one or more of glyceryl oleate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl caprylate/caprate, biomimetic phosphate and polyglycerol ester;
the glucoside derivative is one or more of glycerol glucoside, methyl glucoside and derivatives thereof, maltooligosaccharide glucoside and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate;
the oil is selected from one or more of amino acid ester derivatives, natural plant-derived or synthetic light oil, such as isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, sunflower seed oil, camellia oil and derivatives, PPG-3 octyl ether, etc.;
the amino acid preservative conditioner is selected from fatty acyl arginine and derivatives thereof, polylysine and derivatives thereof or proline and derivatives thereof. The fatty acyl arginine and derivatives thereof comprise fatty acyl arginine, fatty acyl arginine ethyl ester salt and the like, wherein the length of a saturated or unsaturated fatty group carbon chain in the fatty acyl group is 6-20 carbon atoms, such as lauroyl arginine ethyl ester, lauroyl arginine ethyl ester hydrochloride, PCA cocoyl arginine ethyl ester salt and the like; polylysine contains series products with different polymerization degrees, different molecular weights and different configurations, such as L-type products, epsilon-type products and the like.
Further, the amino acid preservative conditioner is preferably one or more of lauroyl arginine ethyl ester hydrochloride, PCA cocoyl arginine ethyl ester salt, polylysine and derivatives thereof.
Such additives include, but are not limited to, suitable viscosity modifiers, chelating agents, preservatives, pH modifiers, fragrances, and the like.
The viscosity regulator is one or more of PPG-2 hydroxyethyl cocamide, cocamide methyl MEA and carbomer polymer.
The chelating agent is selected from one or more of disodium EDTA, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and trisodium dicarboxymethylalanine.
The acid-base regulator is one or more selected from citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine and the like.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo, which comprises the following steps:
(1) under the condition of stirring, adding water into a reaction kettle, heating to 75 +/-5 ℃, adding an amphoteric surfactant, uniformly stirring, adding an ester compound, keeping the temperature for 10-30 minutes, completely dissolving until the mixture is clear and transparent, and cooling;
(2) cooling to 70 + -5 deg.C, adding N-fatty acyl amino acid or its salt surfactant;
(3) cooling to 45 +/-5 ℃, adding other components and additives in the conditioner, and continuously stirring until the mixture is uniformly mixed;
(4) and adjusting the pH value of the product to 4.5-7.5.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: according to the transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo, an ester compound (small molecular ester) is selected, light grease and a natural source amino acid preservative are matched, a common cationic high-molecular polymer is replaced by the shampoo, and a proper formula is provided, so that the shampoo has excellent dry and wet combing property, the foam texture and foam stabilizing performance are improved, the dried hair is smooth, easy, soft and bright, the conditioning is proper, the scalp is nursed, the hair quality is repaired, a weak acid transparent system is close to the pH value of the skin and the scalp, and the shampoo is mild, free of stimulation, clean, low-carbon and environment-friendly and is suitable for long-term use.
1. The conditioning shampoo is based on a transparent amino acid surfactant system, does not need to add synthetic pearlescent ester, is mild, safe and effective in nursing scalp, nourishing scalp and hair and repairing hair, can be prepared into a foam formulation or viscous shampoo, and can be used by adults or infants.
2. The conditioner is correctly selected and matched, the micromolecule esters, glucoside derivatives and light oil products are reasonably used, the amino acid antiseptic conditioner with natural sources is matched, the scalp is nourished, proper deposition is realized, excessive conditioning caused by using high-molecular cationic polymers is avoided, meanwhile, the using amount of other preservatives can be reduced or the preservatives in the formula can be replaced, the solution is easy, and the operation is convenient.
3. The defects of dry and wet combing, dryness, knotting and the like of the shampoo without sulfate, silicone oil and high-molecular cationic polymer in an amino acid surfactant system are overcome, and the hair is smooth, fresh, elegant, nutritious and glossy after washing.
4. The shampoo provided by the invention is mild and non-irritant, has dense and rich foam, is easy to wash, is moderately clean, can moisturize, nourish and comfort, can be used for nursing scalp and repairing hair quality, is easy to degrade, is highly environment-friendly, and can be applied to natural organic formulas and COSMOS authentication schemes by selecting proper combinations.
5. The shampoo provided by the invention can be used for a long time, is green, safe and healthy, and has no burden on scalp and hair.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a graph showing the lather level and the lather stabilizing properties of each shampoo sample of the examples.
FIG. 2 shows the transparency test results of the respective samples in the examples.
FIG. 3 shows the results of the cleaning performance test of each sample in the examples.
Fig. 4 is a sensory evaluation result of the usability of each sample in the examples.
FIG. 5 shows the carding machine evaluation results of the dry and wet combing properties of the respective samples in the examples.
Detailed Description
The following detailed description of the embodiments of the present invention, however, it should be noted that the specific examples do not represent limitations to the scope of the present invention.
Example 1
A transparent amino acid-washing foam comprises the following components:
Figure BDA0002175889060000051
Figure BDA0002175889060000061
example 2
A transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo comprises the following components:
Figure BDA0002175889060000062
example 3
A transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo comprises the following components:
Figure BDA0002175889060000063
Figure BDA0002175889060000071
example 4
A transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo comprises the following components:
Figure BDA0002175889060000072
example 5
A transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo comprises the following components:
Figure BDA0002175889060000073
Figure BDA0002175889060000081
performance testing
Experimental methods
pH determination: the determination is carried out according to the national standard GB/T13531.1-2008 'determination of pH value of cosmetic universal detection method'.
2. And (3) viscosity measurement: an appropriate amount of the sample was taken and placed in a 250ml beaker, and the temperature of the sample was kept constant at 25. + -. 1 ℃ and measured with an NDJ-1 type rotational viscometer.
3. Foam performance: the determination is carried out according to the improved Ross-Mile method for determining the foaming power of the surfactant in the national standard GB/T7462-1994. The mass fraction of the test sample was 0.5%, the water hardness was 250mg/kg, and the test temperature was (50. + -. 0.5). degree.C.
4. Transparency: and an ultraviolet visible spectrophotometer with a test wavelength of 600 nm.
5. Cleaning performance: the sebum detergency was determined according to the method in GB/T13174-2008. The mass concentration of the test sample is 2g/L, the water hardness is 250mg/kg, the determination temperature is (30 +/-1) DEG C, and the time is 20 min.
6. Use performance
The volunteer sensory evaluation method and the control sample are adopted to carry out half-head experiment. The half-hair test is carried out by applying a test sample to half of the hair of each subject and applying a commercially available control sample to the other half of the hair (sulfur-free silicon-free polymer-containing transparent shampoo, double-blind half-hair application test), and evaluating by a special experimenter through a prepared scoring system to evaluate whether the hair is smooth and soft when washed, whether the hair is combed by wet hair, and dry hair, whether the hair feels smooth after being dried, and whether the hair is light and glossy. The hair is scored by 5-point evaluation, namely 5 points, 4 points, 3 points, 2 points and 1 point in sequence, the full score is 5 points, the effect is best, the hair is easy to comb, soft and smooth, the hand feeling is good, the effect of 1 point is the worst, the hair is easy to wind and knot during combing, and the hair is coarse and dry.
7. Combing performance
The dynamic combing tester (CombingTestsk-3A, Techno Hashimoto of Japan) used in the experiment was a parallel hair bundle made of Asian hair (BS-B3A, Beaulax) having a weight of 16g, a width of 5cm and a length of 20cm and arranged in the same direction. The prepared hair bundle is placed on a dynamic combing property tester, and the influence of using different shampoos on the combing property of the hair is evaluated.
Test method for dynamic combing nature simulation test
Figure BDA0002175889060000082
Figure BDA0002175889060000091
Results of the experiment
Table 1 shows the basic physicochemical indices of pH and viscosity of each sample.
TABLE 1 basic Properties
Figure BDA0002175889060000092
As can be seen from Table 1, the basic performance indexes of the shampoos in the examples of the present invention are substantially consistent with those of the commercial product control, which indicates that the pH of the examples is close to that of the consumer common product, and the shampoos can be used normally.
FIG. 1 shows the amount of foaming and foam stabilizing properties of each sample. As can be seen from FIG. 1, the example 1 sample has the best foaming amount, the example 4 sample has the best foam stabilizing performance, the 5 samples of examples 1-5 have about 500mL of foam, and the control sample has about 450mL of foam. The foam richness of the examples is clearly superior to the control.
Figure 2 is a graph of the transparency of each sample tested. As can be seen from fig. 2, the samples of examples 2 and 4 have slightly better transparency than the control, and the samples of examples 1, 3 and 5 have significantly better transparency than the control.
Fig. 3 is a graph of the cleaning performance of each sample tested. From the evaluation results, the cleanliness of the samples of example 2 and example 5 is slightly higher than that of the control sample, and the cleanliness of the samples of example 1, example 3 and example 4 is equivalent to that of the control sample. The scalp is a microecological balance system, and the excessive cleanness can damage the surface barrier of the scalp, damage the scalp and easily cause itching and dandruff.
Figure 4 is a sensory evaluation of the performance properties of each sample. From the evaluation results, each example was clearly superior to the control in terms of hand feeling during use, combing property, hair lightness after drying, and glossiness.
FIG. 5 is a chart of the dry and wet combing performance of each sample evaluated by the combing machine. From the results of the evaluation, the dry and wet combing performance of example 3 is the best, and the combing performance of each example is better than that of the control sample.
The experimental data show that the transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo disclosed by the invention has abundant foam and moderate cleaning power when being used, is smooth and not knotted when being kneaded, has good dry and wet combing performance, and is smooth, bright, fresh and light after being dried.
The above examples are only illustrative of several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not to be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Some insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the invention according to its spirit or technical spirit fall within the scope of the invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the claims.

Claims (7)

1. The transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
10-50% of N-fatty acyl amino acid or salt surfactant thereof
10 to 30 percent of amphoteric surfactant
0.1 to 5.0 percent of conditioner
Optionally one or more additives 0-5%
Balance of water
The conditioning shampoo is free of sulfate, silicone oil and cationic polymer;
the conditioner comprises the following components in parts by mass:
20-30 parts of ester compound selected from one or more of glyceryl oleate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl caprylate/caprate, biomimetic phosphate and polyglycerol ester
1-10 parts of grease
Amino acid antiseptic conditioner selected from fatty acyl arginine and its derivative, polylysine and its derivative or proline and its derivative 1-35 weight portions
Glucoside derivatives selected from one or more of glycerol glucoside, methyl glucoside and its derivatives, maltooligosaccharide glucoside and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate 0-30 parts.
2. The transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo according to claim 1, wherein the N-fatty acyl amino acid or salt thereof is selected from one or more of N-fatty acyl glutamic acid and salt thereof, N-fatty acyl glycine and salt thereof, N-fatty acyl sarcosine and salt thereof, N-fatty acyl methyl taurine and salt thereof, and N-fatty acyl alanine and salt thereof.
3. The transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo according to claim 2, wherein the carbon chain length of the saturated or unsaturated fatty group in the N-fatty acyl group is 6-22 carbon atoms.
4. The clear amino acid conditioning shampoo of claim 1 wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of betaine amphoteric surfactants and imidazoline amphoteric surfactants.
5. The transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the oil or fat in the conditioning agent is selected from amino acid ester derivatives, natural plant-derived or synthetic light oils or fats.
6. The transparent amino acid conditioning shampoo according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid preservative conditioning agent is selected from one or more of lauroyl arginine ethyl ester hydrochloride, PCA cocoyl arginine ethyl ester salt, polylysine and derivatives thereof.
7. A method of preparing a clear amino acid conditioning shampoo according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:
(1) under the condition of stirring, adding water into a reaction kettle, heating to 75 +/-5 ℃, adding an amphoteric surfactant, uniformly stirring, adding an ester compound, keeping the temperature for 10-30 minutes, completely dissolving until the mixture is clear and transparent, and cooling;
(2) cooling to 70 + -5 deg.C, adding N-fatty acyl amino acid or its salt surfactant;
(3) cooling to 45 +/-5 ℃, adding other components and additives in the conditioner, and continuously stirring until the mixture is uniformly mixed;
(4) and adjusting the pH value of the product to 4.5-7.5.
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