CN112043614B - Selective cleansing composition and scalp hair care product - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a selective cleaning composition comprising polyglycerol laurate and N-acyl N-methyl taurates. A scalp hair care product is also provided. The product has basic performance requirements of cleaning power, mildness, foamability and conditioning performance, can selectively, mildly and effectively remove high-risk substance unsaturated fatty acid which is easy to cause inflammation, is easy to oxidize and is difficult to clean in scalp sebum, and protects scalp barrier function, so that the scalp care effect is achieved.

Description

Selective cleansing composition and scalp hair care product

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a selective cleaning composition and a scalp hair care product, in particular to a cleaning agent combination capable of selectively cleaning high-risk components which are easy to cause inflammation, easy to oxidize and difficult to clean in scalp sebum.

Background

Scalp is the soil where hair grows, and just as the quality of the soil directly affects the harvest of crops, the health of the scalp directly affects the health of hair. Studies have shown that when scalp is inflamed, inflammatory factors affect hair follicle cells, resulting in reduced hair strength and elasticity. Besides the surface of the scalp is covered with a large amount of hair, the scalp also contains a large amount of hair follicles and sebaceous glands, the sebaceous glands secrete about 1-2g of sebum every day, and the freshly secreted sebum can reduce the loss of scalp moisture, prevent the scalp from drying and has the effect of enhancing the scalp barrier function. However, aged and deteriorated sebum causes scalp inflammation, thereby causing scalp itching, hair odor, redness, dandruff, even hair loss, and other scalp problems. For example, it is known that triglycerides in sebum can be broken down by the bacteria malassezia which are common to the scalp, and that unsaturated fatty acids, which are the products of this breakdown into the scalp, cause scalp inflammation. In addition, sebum components (e.g., squalene) containing unsaturated double bonds are susceptible to ultraviolet light, haze, etc. to produce sebum peroxide, which is highly irritating to the scalp and also causes scalp inflammation. Although thorough removal of sebum helps prevent scalp inflammation, the protective effect of sebum on the scalp barrier is also reduced, while the Gao Qingjie force of conventional anionic surfactants are more irritating to the scalp, e.g., fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether sulfate and the like. The nonionic surfactant polyglycerol fatty acid ester can gently and effectively clean sebum, but cannot achieve the same effect of forming a flocculating agent to improve wet hair conditioning performance as the traditional anionic surfactant.

Therefore, it is an important technical development of the present invention to search for a cleansing ingredient or composition that selectively eliminates the high risk component by studying the ingredients of scalp sebum that are prone to inflammation, are prone to oxidation, and are not prone to cleansing. At the same time, the cleansing ingredients or compositions are required to meet the basic performance requirements of mild, lathering, and manageable scalp hair cleansing products.

Disclosure of Invention

It is therefore an object of the present invention to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art and to provide a selective cleansing composition and scalp hair care product.

Before describing the technical scheme of the present invention, the terms used herein are defined as follows:

the term "HLB" refers to: hydrophilic-lipophilic balance value of surfactant.

To achieve the above object, a first aspect of the present invention provides a selective cleaning composition comprising polyglycerol laurate and N-acyl N-methyl taurates.

The selective cleaning composition according to the first aspect of the present invention, wherein the content ratio of polyglycerol laurate to N-acyl N-methyl taurate in the composition is in the range of 7:3 to 9:1, preferably 8:2.

The selective cleaning composition according to the first aspect of the present invention, wherein the polyglycerol laurate is a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant having HLB of not less than 10 and monoglyceride content of not less than 50%, preferably polyglycerol-10 laurate.

The selective cleaning composition according to the first aspect of the present invention, wherein the N-acyl N-methyl taurate salt is selected from sodium cocoyl methyl taurate and/or sodium cocoyl methyl taurate; sodium cocoyl methyl taurate is preferred.

In a second aspect the present invention provides a scalp hair care product comprising a selective cleansing composition as described in the first aspect;

preferably, the weight portion of the selective cleansing composition in the scalp hair care product is from 0.01% to 15.0%.

The scalp hair care product according to the second aspect of the present invention wherein the scalp hair care product comprises one or more of the following: deionized water, cationic polymer, anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, preservative, pH regulator and essence.

The scalp hair care product according to the second aspect of the present invention wherein the cationic polymer is selected from cationic guar gum and/or cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose, preferably polyquaternium-10 and/or guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; the amphoteric surfactant is selected from alkylamide betaine and/or sulfopropyl betaine;

the preservative is sodium benzoate and/or phenoxyethanol; and/or the pH regulator is citric acid.

The scalp hair care product according to the second aspect of the present invention wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from one or more of the following: fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether sulfate, fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether carboxylate, alpha-olefin sulfonate, N-acyl N-methyl taurate, N-acyl amino acid;

more preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from one or more of the following: sodium laureth sulfate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

The scalp hair care product according to the second aspect of the present invention wherein the scalp hair care product is selected from one or more of the following: shampoo, shampoo and shampoo cream.

A third aspect of the present invention provides a method of preparing a scalp hair care product according to the second aspect, the method comprising:

at room temperature, adding deionized water and cationic polymer into a container, stirring and dispersing, heating to 80 ℃, adding the rest product raw materials except essence, cooling to 40 ℃ after complete dissolution, adding essence, and stirring uniformly to obtain the scalp hair care product.

The invention provides a selective cleaning composition for scalp hair, which can selectively, mildly and effectively remove unsaturated fatty acid which is a high risk substance and is easy to cause inflammation in scalp sebum, and protect scalp barrier function, thereby achieving the effect of scalp care.

Specifically, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

a scalp hair selective cleansing composition comprising polyglycerol laurate and N-acyl N-methyl taurates in an active content ratio ranging from 7:3 to 9:1.

preferably, the active content ratio of polyglycerol laurate to N-acyl N-methyltaurine salt is 8:2.

Wherein the polyglycerol laurate is hydrophilic nonionic surfactant with HLB of more than or equal to 10 and glycerol fatty acid ester content of more than or equal to 50%, and preferably polyglycerol-10 laurate. The N-acyl N-methyl taurine is one or two of sodium cocoyl methyl taurine and sodium cocoyl methyl taurine. More preferably, the N-acyl N-methyl taurate is sodium cocoyl methyl taurate.

The present inventors have found, through long-term diligent efforts, that the component of sebum that is susceptible to inflammation, oxidation, and washing is an unsaturated fatty acid. Further, it was found that the combination of polyglycerol laurate and N-acyl N-methyl taurate can selectively and effectively remove unsaturated fatty acids and protect scalp barrier function.

The invention also applies the selective cleansing composition to scalp hair care products. The scalp and hair care products are well known to those skilled in the art and may be shampoos, and washes, and require cleansing, mildness, lathering, and conditioning properties.

Specifically, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

the polyglycerol laurate which is not easy to form the flocculating glue capable of improving the wet hair conditioning performance and the cocoyl methyl taurine sodium with strong flocculating glue forming capability are compounded. Meanwhile, it is well known to those skilled in the art that polyglycerol laurate and cocoyl methyl taurate are both mild, low-irritating surfactants.

The invention also provides a scalp hair care product. Characterized in that the weight portion of the selective cleaning composition is 0.01 to 15.0 percent based on the active matter content. The raw material components also comprise deionized water, a proper amount of cationic polymer, a proper amount of anionic surfactant, a proper amount of amphoteric surfactant, a proper amount of preservative, pH regulator and essence.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is selected from one or more of cationic guar gum or cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose, and the amphoteric surfactant is selected from one or more of alkylamide betaine and sulfopropyl betaine.

The anionic surfactant is selected from one or more of the following: fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether sulfate, fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether carboxylate, alpha-olefin sulfonate, N-acyl N-methyl taurate, N-acyl amino acid; preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from one or more of the following: sodium laureth sulfate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The invention is applicable to scalp hair care products. The scalp and hair care products are well known to those skilled in the art and may be shampoos, and the like.

The product has basic performance requirements of cleaning power, mildness, foamability and conditioning performance, and can selectively, mildly and effectively remove high-risk substance unsaturated fatty acid which is easy to cause inflammation, easy to oxidize and difficult to clean in scalp sebum, and protect scalp barrier function, so that the scalp care effect is achieved.

The compositions of the present invention may have, but are not limited to, the following benefits:

the invention provides a selective cleaning composition for scalp hair, which can selectively, mildly and effectively remove unsaturated fatty acid which is a high risk substance and is easy to cause inflammation in scalp sebum, and protect scalp barrier function, thereby achieving the effect of scalp care.

Drawings

Embodiments of the present invention are described in detail below with reference to the attached drawing figures, wherein:

fig. 1 shows the results of the behavior test for the formation of the wadding.

Figure 2 shows a graph comparing the cleaning efficiency of sulfate-type anionic surfactants for different sebum components in the scalp or hair.

FIG. 3 shows the results of experimental tests of different oils on human epidermal keratinocyte inflammatory factor IL-1alpha induction.

Fig. 4 shows the results of peroxide value test of squalene and oleic acid before and after 24 hours of UVA irradiation.

Fig. 5 shows the results of the wash rate test for ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, selective wash compositions for artificial sebum, oleic acid, respectively.

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated by the following specific examples, which are, however, to be understood only for the purpose of more detailed description and are not to be construed as limiting the invention in any way.

This section generally describes the materials used in the test of the present invention and the test method. Although many materials and methods of operation are known in the art for accomplishing the objectives of the present invention, the present invention will be described in as much detail herein. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that in this context, the materials and methods of operation used in the present invention are well known in the art, if not specifically described.

The reagents and instrumentation used in the following examples were as follows:

reagent:

the artificial sebum comprises 48% of wild soybean oil, 13% of oleic acid, 12% of myristic acid, 12% of squalene, 10% of paraffin, 3% of glycerol oleate and 2% of cholesterol stearate according to the content of active substances. All are commercial raw materials.

Polyglycerol-10 laurate, model SUNSOFT M-12J, 100% active, was purchased from Sun chemical Co.

Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate, model GREMOL CMT-30, 30% active, purchased from tensegrity chemical company, inc.

Sodium laureth sulfate, model texanapon N70, active content 70%, purchased from basf (china) limited.

Ammonium lauryl sulfate, model ALSCOAP LS-25B, 25% active material, purchased from Toho chemical industries, inc.

Sodium cocoyl glutamate, model EVERSOFT UCS-30S, with an active content of 30% was purchased from Nanjing lion New Material Co.

Sodium laureth sulfate, model TEXANPON N70, with an active content of 70% and purchased from Basoff Inc

Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, model liperan LB-440, active content 36%, purchased from LION Specialty Chemicals co., ltd.

Lauroyl sarcosine sodium, eversoft S-12, 30% active, commercially available from Nanjing lion New Material Co., ltd

Cocamidopropyl betaine, model TC-CAB 35H, 30% active, purchased from New Material Co., ltd.

Lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine, model AMPHITOL 20HD, 30% active, was purchased from Shanghai flower king chemical company, inc.

Polyquaternium-10, model JR-30M, 100% active, purchased from Dow chemical company.

Guar hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride, model Soft-5S, has an active content of 100% and is purchased from Kunshan Beijing chemical technology development company.

Other raw materials are all commercially available.

In the following examples, the parts by weight (in terms of active) refer to: the ingredients in the example formulations are added in amounts that are the active content of the ingredient. Since the raw materials used in the examples were not all 100% by weight, they could not be added alone by weight, and the conversion was carried out according to the active material content of each raw material.

In the following examples, the balance deionized water refers to: pure water after removing impurities in the form of ions.

Examples 1 to 3

This example illustrates the method of preparing the selective cleaning composition of the present invention and the behavior test of the formation of the gel.

The formulations of examples 1-3 are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 examples 1-3 formulations

The preparation method of the formulas of examples 1-3 comprises the following steps:

at room temperature, adding deionized water and polyquaternium-10 into a container, stirring and dispersing, heating to 80 ℃, adding the rest product raw materials except essence, cooling to 40 ℃ after complete dissolution, adding essence, and stirring uniformly. The selective cleaning composition is obtained.

Subsequently, a behavior test of the formation of a gel was performed with respect to the selective cleaning compositions prepared in examples 1 to 3.

The experimental method comprises the following steps: the selective cleaning compositions prepared in examples 1 to 3 were diluted 0, 2, 4, 8, 10, 16, 50, and 100 times with deionized water, respectively, and the transmittance of the blanks at each dilution was measured by a spectrophotometer.

The test results are shown in FIG. 1. It will be readily appreciated by those skilled in the art that the more the batting is formed, the lower the transparency of the mass and the better the wet hair conditioning when the product is used to clean scalp hair. As can be seen from fig. 1, no flocculation can be formed when polyglycerol-10 laurate alone, and the ratio of polyglycerol-10 laurate to sodium cocoyl methyl taurate is 8:2, after compounding, the amount of the formed flocculating agent can be increased.

Examples 4 to 19, comparative examples 1 to 5

This example and comparative example are illustrative of scalp hair care products and methods of making the same.

The formulations of examples 4-11 are shown in Table 2, the formulations of examples 12-19 are shown in Table 3, and the formulations of comparative examples 1-5 are shown in Table 4.

Table 2 examples 4-11 formulations

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Table 3 examples 12-19 formulations

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Table 4 comparative examples 1-5 formulations

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The preparation method of the formulas of examples 4-19 and comparative examples 1-5 comprises the following steps:

at room temperature, deionized water, polyquaternium-10 and guar gum hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride are added into a container, stirred and dispersed, heated to 80 ℃, the rest product raw materials except essence are added, after complete dissolution, the temperature is reduced to 40 ℃, essence is added, and stirring is even. The scalp hair care product is obtained.

The above scalp care product formulation is merely a specific example for illustrating a specific application of the scalp hair cleansing composition in a scalp care product, and in practical application, the scalp hair cleansing composition may be prepared into various scalp care products, for example: shampoo, shampoo cream, etc., and it is easily understood by those skilled in the art that the upper scalp care product may further comprise functional components such as anti-dandruff, antipruritic, smoothing, thickening, etc., according to actual use needs.

Test example 1

This test example is used to demonstrate the cleansing of sebum from scalp or hair with sulfate-type anionic surfactants.

Sebum in scalp or hair mainly contains oils such as squalene and oleic acid. At present, squalene, artificial sebum and oleic acid are taken as research objects, and the cleaning efficiency of the sulfate anionic surfactant which is a common cleaning component on the artificial sebum, the oleic acid and the squalene is explored.

The experimental method comprises the following steps: 1.0g of sebum to be tested is uniformly smeared on Asian healthy hair bundles respectively, and then 1.5g of 10% active matter aqueous solution of sulfate anion-laureth sodium sulfate surfactant is used for treatment, namely the mass percentage of the active matter of the surfactant in the aqueous solution is 10%. And then the weight difference calculation before and after hair bundle treatment is converted into a cleaning rate, wherein the cleaning rate has the following calculation formula:

the cleaning rate = [ (weight of hair strand before treatment-weight of hair strand after treatment)/weight of hair strand before treatment ] ×100%.

The cleaning results are shown in FIG. 2. As can be seen from fig. 2, three sebum types were found to be easily washed from top to bottom in this order: squalene, artificial sebum, oleic acid. It is seen that the unsaturated fatty acid represented by oleic acid is difficult to clean, and the conventional sulfate-type anionic surfactant is not only relatively irritating to scalp, but also does not have outstanding cleaning efficiency for the unsaturated fatty acid oleic acid.

Test example 2

The test example is used for explaining the induction experiment of different oils on human epidermal keratinocyte inflammatory factor IL-1 alpha.

Sebum from scalp or hair is a mixture of different lipid components, and several representative components are now selected to explore their induction of the cytokine IL-1 alpha.

The experimental method comprises the following steps: human epidermal keratinocyte cells were stimulated with 0.01% sebum for 24 hours, RNA was collected using the kit RNeasy mini kit, cDNA was synthesized using the reverse transcription kit High Capacity cDNA Reverse Transcription Kits, and finally mRNA gene expression amount of inflammatory factors was measured by real-time fluorescent quantitative PCR using FastStart Essential DNA Green Master.

The test results are shown in FIG. 3. As can be seen from fig. 3, the unsaturated fatty acids represented by oleic acid induce the expression of inflammatory factors, and it is seen that the unsaturated fatty acids in the scalp sebum components directly induce scalp inflammation.

Test example 3

This test example is used to illustrate sebum oxidation experiments.

The representative ingredients squalene and oleic acid containing unsaturated bonds in sebum were irradiated with Ultraviolet (UVA) light for 24 hours, respectively, and then peroxide values of squalene and oleic acid before and after UVA irradiation were measured, respectively.

The peroxide value was measured by the method for measuring the peroxide value of animal or vegetable fat specified in GB/T5538-2005.

The test results are shown in fig. 4. From fig. 4, oleic acid is more easily oxidized than squalene, and the risk of inflammation by stimulation of the scalp with peroxide is higher.

Test example 4

This test example is intended to illustrate the selective cleansing of sebum in scalp or hair by surfactants.

The invention takes artificial sebum with protective effect on scalp barrier and high risk components which are represented by oleic acid and are easy to cause scalp inflammation as research objects, and researches the cleaning efficiency of the selective cleaning composition for the artificial sebum and the oleic acid, wherein the common cleaning components comprise sulfate type surfactant, namely ammonium lauryl sulfate, amino acid type surfactant, namely sodium cocoyl glutamate.

The experimental method is the same as that of test example 1.

The test results are shown in fig. 5. As can be seen from fig. 5, when the index of the cleaning rate of the ammonium lauryl sulfate, the sodium cocoyl glutamate and the selective cleaning composition for artificial sebum is 1.0, the cleaning rate of the selective cleaning composition for oleic acid is equal to the cleaning rate of the selective cleaning composition for artificial sebum and is higher than that of the selective cleaning composition for oleic acid, and under the same cleaning conditions, the selective cleaning composition can preferentially and efficiently remove unsaturated fatty acids represented by oleic acid.

Test example 5

This test example is intended to illustrate the selective cleansing test of scalp hair care products of the present invention.

The results of the selective cleansing effect test of examples 4 to 19 and comparative examples 1 to 5, when the cleansing rate index for artificial sebum was set to 1.0, are shown in tables 5 to 7.

TABLE 5 results of Selective cleaning Effect test of examples 4-11

TABLE 6 results of Selective cleaning Effect test of examples 12-19

Table 7 results of the test for Selective cleaning Effect comparing 1-5

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As is clear from tables 5 to 7, the index of the cleaning rate of oleic acid in examples 4 to 19 of the present invention was 0.75 or more, and the index of the cleaning rate of oleic acid in comparative examples 1 to 5 was less than 0.75, respectively, with respect to the cleaning rate of artificial sebum.

Test example 6

This test example is intended to illustrate a clinical trial of the scalp care product of the present invention.

10 volunteers were randomly selected for a washing test using the scalp care product prepared in example 4 of the present invention.

The test method comprises the following steps: shampoo was performed every 1 day with the scalp and hair care product prepared in example 8 of the present invention, with a test period of 30 days. After the test, the patient judges whether the scalp is deoiled and fresh but not dried, and the scalp inflammation preventing effect is achieved. The scalp inflammation prevention criteria were that there were no symptoms such as itching, redness and swelling, and dandruff, and the results are shown in table 4.

TABLE 4 clinical trial results

The scalp hair care product can be used for washing and protecting, can selectively and effectively wash off high-risk substances in sebum, can keep scalp fresh and avoid damaging barrier function, and can reduce symptoms such as scalp inflammation, dandruff and the like after long-term use.

Although the present invention has been described to a certain extent, it is apparent that appropriate changes may be made in the individual conditions without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is to be understood that the invention is not to be limited to the described embodiments, but is to be given the full breadth of the claims, including equivalents of each of the elements described.

Claims (9)

1. A selective cleaning composition comprising polyglycerol laurate and N-acyl N-methyl taurates;

the content ratio of polyglycerol laurate to N-acyl N-methyl taurate in the composition is 8:2;

the polyglycerol laurate is polyglycerol-10 laurate;

the N-acyl N-methyl taurate is cocoyl methyl taurate sodium.

2. A scalp hair care product comprising the selective cleaning composition of claim 1.

3. A scalp hair care product according to claim 2 wherein the selective cleansing composition is present in the scalp hair care product in an amount of from 0.01% to 15.0% by weight.

4. A scalp hair care product according to claim 2 wherein the scalp hair care product comprises one or more of the following: deionized water, cationic polymer, anionic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, preservative, pH regulator and essence.

5. A scalp hair care product according to claim 4 wherein the cationic polymer is selected from one or more of the following: cationic guar gum, cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose;

the amphoteric surfactant is selected from alkylamide betaine and/or sulfopropyl betaine;

the preservative is sodium benzoate and phenoxyethanol; and/or

The pH regulator is citric acid.

6. A scalp hair care product according to claim 4 wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from one or more of the following: fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether sulfate, fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether carboxylate, alpha-olefin sulfonate, N-acyl N-methyl taurate, and N-acyl amino acid.

7. A scalp hair care product according to claim 6 wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from one or more of the following: sodium laureth sulfate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.

8. A scalp hair care product according to any one of claims 2 to 7 wherein the scalp hair care product is selected from one or more of the following: shampoo, shampoo and shampoo cream.

9. A method of preparing a scalp hair care product according to any one of claims 2 to 8 characterised in that the method comprises:

at room temperature, adding deionized water and cationic polymer into a container, stirring and dispersing, heating to 80 ℃, adding the rest product raw materials except essence, cooling to 40 ℃ after complete dissolution, adding essence, and stirring uniformly to obtain the scalp hair care product.

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