CN110302092B - Cosmetic composition for improving hair flexibility - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition for improving hair flexibility Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN110302092B CN110302092B CN201910091171.2A CN201910091171A CN110302092B CN 110302092 B CN110302092 B CN 110302092B CN 201910091171 A CN201910091171 A CN 201910091171A CN 110302092 B CN110302092 B CN 110302092B
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- Prior art keywords
- hair
- composition
- oil
- guar gum
- polymer
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- SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOS([O-])(=O)=O SXHLENDCVBIJFO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- QUCDWLYKDRVKMI-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;3,4-dimethylbenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].CC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1C QUCDWLYKDRVKMI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- 235000020679 tap water Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- UEUXEKPTXMALOB-UHFFFAOYSA-J tetrasodium;2-[2-[bis(carboxylatomethyl)amino]ethyl-(carboxylatomethyl)amino]acetate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)CN(CC([O-])=O)CCN(CC([O-])=O)CC([O-])=O UEUXEKPTXMALOB-UHFFFAOYSA-J 0.000 description 1
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- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Images
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0291—Micelles
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for improving hair flexibility comprising alkyl cellulose, a surfactant, guar gum and an oil, said alkyl cellulose and guar gum having a weight ratio of 1:0.5 to 5, forming stable aggregates when diluted in water for delivering the oil, thereby imparting softness to thicker or damaged hair, causing it to become conformable.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for hair or fiber treatment comprising an alkyl cellulose, a surfactant, guar gum and an oil, which is a composition in which the above alkyl cellulose and guar gum have a weight ratio of 1:0.5 to 5.
Background
Hair cosmetics generally have a hair washing function of removing contamination of scalp and hair, cleaning hair, and maintaining a bright appearance. In addition to the above functions, hair cosmetics are used for additional purposes such as ease of combing, imparting softness, lubricity or luster to hair, reducing friction on hair surfaces, preventing static electricity, protecting hair, and the like. Recently, consumers have demanded products that make thick, straight, or damaged hair soft (flexible) and elegant. In particular, if a soft feel is imparted to the hair of a consumer whose hair thickness is large, the amount is large, or the hair is not a straight hair, the frizzy and rough hair is finished, and a good hairstyle can be obtained. Moreover, many hairs are frizzy because the hair that is chemically damaged, such as dyed, permed, excessively blown, or ultraviolet rays, loses elasticity and does not have hair-conditioning properties, and if such hairs are given softness, the hairs are finished and can be restored to healthy hairs.
In order to impart hair manageability to hair, styling agents employing chemically tacky polymers are used. Spray, mousse, gel type dosage forms have problems of hardening hair and not re-styling (reshape), and there are problems of coating excessive to a desired amount or more. The wax or oil form has a problem that the functional ingredient cannot be applied to the hair in a close manner. In addition, the hairline raised in frizzy areas has the problem of greasy or agglomerated hair because of the adsorption of the components of the chemical styling agent by the hairline.
The formulation which can overcome the above problems is a shampoo. Conventionally, attempts have been made to provide a soft feel to hair, which is perceived by fingers as being free of roughness, but attempts have not been made to reduce the force applied when the actual hair is bent. That is, existing products replace the effect of reducing the forces applied when hair is bent with the effect of providing a soft feel to the hair surface that is not rough.
On the other hand, in preparing shampoos, it is known that nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants form aggregates (coacervates) when they encounter cationic polymers, thereby binding the oils and thus participating in the delivery of the oils. However, when aggregates are not stably present during the cleaning, the effect of oil transfer cannot be achieved. Heretofore, compositions comprising alkyl cellulose, surfactant, guar gum and oil have been known to form a stable aggregate, and the combination of the constituent components is known.
Under such circumstances, the inventors of the present invention have found that a shampoo composition which is stable in aggregate when diluted in water, has a connection relationship between alkyl cellulose, a surfactant, guar gum and oil, and completed the present invention.
Disclosure of Invention
Technical problem to be solved
It is an object of the present invention to provide a hair or fiber treatment cosmetic composition comprising an alkyl cellulose, a surfactant, guar gum and an oil, which is a composition in which the above alkyl cellulose and guar gum have a weight ratio of 1:0.5 to 5.
Means for solving the problems
The present invention will be described in further detail below.
In addition, the respective descriptions and embodiments disclosed in the present application can also be applied to the respective different descriptions and embodiments. That is, all combinations of the various elements disclosed in the application are within the scope of the invention. The scope of the present invention is not limited to the specific description below.
Further, those skilled in the art will recognize, or be able to ascertain using no more than routine experimentation, many equivalents to the specific aspects of the invention described herein. And such equivalents are intended to be encompassed by the present invention.
As an aspect for solving the above problems, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for hair or fiber treatment comprising an alkyl cellulose, a surfactant, guar gum, and oil, which is a composition in which the above alkyl cellulose and guar gum have a weight ratio of 1:0.5 to 5.
The above composition forms the above-described bonding relationship between the respective constituent components, and when diluted in water, stable complex aggregates are formed. Specifically, the alkyl cellulose having the cationic alkylammonium group and the surfactant form a micelle, and at this time, the alkyl group plays a role of transferring oil to the inside of the micelle due to the alkyl group having hydrophobicity, thereby carrying the oil in the inside of the micelle. The micelles are contained in guar gum. That is, alkyl groups of the alkyl cellulose are chemically bonded to the oil, and guar gum accommodates micelles including the oil therein, thereby forming physical bonds. Due to these combinations, stable complex coacervates can be generated upon dilution in water.
The term "aggregate" as used in this application should be interpreted as a term commonly used in the cosmetic field. Specifically, when the hydrophilic colloid solution is separated into two liquid phases, and the colloid concentration of one liquid phase is high and the colloid concentration of the other liquid phase is low, the colloid concentration of the other liquid phase is high. The aggregates are classified into simple aggregates formed from a mixture of water and phenol, an aqueous gelatin solution and an alcohol, and complex aggregates formed from two or more kinds of charged particles (charged particles) such as an aqueous gelatin and an aqueous gum arabic solution, and the like, and the aggregates formed by dilution of the composition of the present invention in water show characteristics such as fluidity, a certain internal structure, optical isotropy, and appearance of cavitation (Vacuole), and have mechanically strong interfaces. When aggregates are produced, light is difficult to transmit, so that a lower transmittance is exhibited, and the content of aggregates can be measured by using this phenomenon. In the present invention, it was confirmed whether or not the transmittance was lowered with the formation of aggregates while diluting the cosmetic composition in water.
The experimental method for measuring the transmittance refers to the following study results: lepileur, C., et al J.cosnet.Sci., 62, (2011) 161-177. Specifically, the shampoo was measured in a beaker according to the concentration to prepare a total of 200g, and then mixed at 50rpm for 1 minute, 4ml was transferred to an optical cuvette, and the transmittance was measured.
As a result, as confirmed in experimental example 2, the composition of example 4 was diluted to a concentration of about 5 to 15% (v/v) to exhibit a transmittance of 20 to 40%, so that it was possible to confirm that complex coacervates were stably formed.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention can form a solid and stable complex aggregate when diluted in water, and thus can stably transport oil carried in the aggregate. The composition of the present invention can impart softness (flexibility) to hair with stable delivery (release) of oil to hair, and allows hair to be attached to hair in a smooth manner without causing frizziness.
The term "softness" as used herein to express the effect of the present invention means a degree to which the fabric is easily bent and softened, and is different from the case where only the surface friction is reduced and the fabric is smooth. As a standard for measuring flexibility, "bending rigidity" indicating the degree to which the bending transverse axis direction (longitudinal axis) is easily bent and softened is used. In the experimental example of the present application, after hair is shampooed and rinsed with the cosmetic composition, it is evaluated using a bending stiffness evaluation apparatus.
In the present application, as the "cationic polymer" used in the composition, alkyl cellulose having a cationic quaternary alkyl ammonium group and cationic guar gum are used. These substances are substantially adsorbed to hair or fibres and impart conditioning functions to the composition, in the present invention aggregates are formed when diluted in water, the combination of the two components playing an important role.
The cationic polymer may comprise 0.01 to 10 wt%, specifically 0.05 to 5 wt%, more specifically 0.1 to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition. When the content of the above cationic polymer is less than 0.01% by weight, the hair conditioning effect and/or the fiber softening effect is very small, and when it exceeds 10% by weight, there is a risk of impeding the stability of the dosage form of the composition.
In the cationic polymer, the "alkyl cellulose" is a cellulose polymer having a quaternary alkylammonium group, and is not limited thereto, as shown in fig. 3, as long as the cationic quaternary ammonium salt and the hydrophilic site having negative charges in the surfactant can form a micelle by electric bonding or the alkyl group contained in the quaternary alkylammonium group and the hydrophobic site of the surfactant together. Sometimes also referred to as alkyl cellulose. The above alkyl cellulose plays an important role in diluting the cosmetic composition of the present application in water to form aggregates, and whether the aggregates are formed or not can be adjusted based on the length of the alkyl group of the quaternary alkyl ammonium group, the hydrophobicity substitution index, and the cationic degree.
The alkylammonium group of the above alkyl cellulose may be attached to the OH group of the glucose ring through a plurality of ethylene oxides. Specifically, polyethylene oxide may be attached to an OH group attached at any one position selected from C2 and C3 of the glucose ring. More specifically, polyethylene oxide may be attached to the OH group of glucose ring C2.
The above alkyl cellulose may beTo contain at least one C in the quaternary alkylammonium group 10-20 Is a hydrocarbon group. The above C 10-20 Can form micelles together with the above surfactants.
The above alkyl cellulose may be a polymer represented by the following chemical formula 1.
[ chemical formula 1]
In the above chemical formula 1, x, y and z are integers of 0 to 3, respectively, but x+y is 1 or more and x+z is 1 or more.
Specifically, the cationic alkyl cellulose may be polyquaternium-10 commercialized as UCARE by Dow chemical company or polyquaternium-67 commercialized as SoftCAT, etc., and more specifically, polyquaternium-67.
More than one alkyl of the alkyl ammonium group alkyl of the alkyl cellulose can form micelle together with the hydrophobic part of the surfactant, and the alkyl can be C 10-20 Is a hydrocarbon group. When the amount of carbon is large, the texture of the polymer becomes hard, and there is a possibility that the polymer becomes sticky or the surface becomes rough, and when the amount of carbon is small, there is a possibility that the conditioning feeling is lowered.
Since the alkyl group in the alkylammonium group of the above-mentioned alkyl cellulose is used for forming the micelle, the hydrophobicity substitution index (Hydrophobic substitution index, HSI) exhibited by the alkyl group or the cationicity (% N) of the alkylammonium group is an important regulatory factor in forming a stable structure in which the micelle is accommodated in guar gum. Wherein the hydrophobicity substitution index (HIS) is a value indicating that one methyl group of the total trimethyl ammonium groups is substituted with C 10-20 The value of the number percentage of the alkyl (e.g., lauryl) moiety,% N represents the mass ratio of N relative to the total weight. The above alkyl cellulose may have a hydrophobic substitution index of 20 to 50, specifically, may have a hydrophobic substitution index of 30 to 50, and more specifically, may have a hydrophobic substitution index of 30 to 40. When the index is exceeded or falls below, the amount of aggregate formed cannot be optimizedThereby possibly reducing the oil delivery efficiency. The composition of example 4 of the present application shows a hydrophobic displacement index of 40. Also, the above alkyl cellulose may have a cationicity (% N) of 2.0 to 2.5, specifically, may have a cationicity of 2.0 to 2.4 or 2.1 to 2.5. The degree of cation can be adjusted by adjusting the nitrogen content. When the ionic degree is exceeded, the viscosity rises, so that it is possible to reduce the amount of polymer bound to form aggregates, and when it is below the ionic degree, the binding force with the anionic surfactant is small, so that it is possible to reduce the oil transport efficiency during the cleaning. The composition of example 4 of the present application shows a cationicity of 2.1.
The alkyl cellulose is adsorbed on the hair surface, and increases the flexibility of the hair during rinsing and drying. Thus, when the composition containing alkyl cellulose of the present invention is used as hair treatment, it exerts a remarkable hair conditioning effect in addition to the original function of hair cosmetics, i.e., the cleansing or styling function, and thus can give a high feeling of satisfaction to the user. Further, the composition of the present invention provides a reasonable combination ratio that can avoid a decrease in the rinsing degree due to an increase in the softness, and thus can improve the physical state of hair.
The "guar gum" in the cationic polymer is polygonal Ma Na (Polygalacto Manan) such as natural guar gum or synthetic guar gum obtained by extracting seed endosperm portions of soybean and guar, and shows cationic property. The polymer used in the present invention may be guar or such a polygonal marnan as derived guar having a lower limit of weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 5,000, specifically 20,000, more specifically 35,000. The upper limit of Mw of such polymers is less than 200,000, specifically less than 100,000, more specifically less than 70,000. Specifically, guar hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride and the like can be used.
The guar gum may exist in a particle state in which the guar gum is crosslinked (cross-link) with each other to form a sphere when the guar gum is combined with an anionic surfactant to form a coacervate, and micelles formed by the alkyl cellulose and the surfactant may be accommodated therein.
In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the above alkyl cellulose and guar gum may have a weight ratio of 1:0.5 to 5. Specifically, it may have a weight ratio of 1:1 to 5. A composition not having the above ratio cannot form a stable aggregate when diluted in water, and thus the bending rigidity increases when applied to hair, and thus there is a possibility that softness may be lowered.
In addition to the above alkyl cellulose and guar gum, a polymer may be additionally added as the cationic polymer of the present invention. The synthetic material-based polymer may be any one or more selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, dimethyldiphenylamine ammonium chloride polymer, acrylamide-dimethyldiphenylamine ammonium chloride copolymer, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) -ethyl methacrylate copolymer, acrylic acid-dimethyldiphenylamine ammonium chloride copolymer, acrylamide-ethyl methacrylate methyl chloride (dimethylamino ethyl methacrylate methyl chloride) copolymer, and trimethylaminomethyl methacrylate (trimethylamino ethyl methacrylate) polymer.
On the other hand, the cationic polymer is added to the composition of the present invention, so that a cationic surfactant may not be added. Thus, skin irritation caused by the conventional cationic surfactants used for providing the fiber softening effect can be avoided.
In the composition of the present invention, any one or more selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants can be used as the "surfactant". The above surfactant basically exhibits a detergency function as in the case of use in a usual composition. The surfactant of the present invention may be used as C which is the same as the above alkyl cellulose 10-20 A surfactant that forms micelles together with the alkyl groups of (a).
As the anionic surfactant, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium polyoxyethylene laureth sulfate, ammonium laurylsuccinate, ammonium myristate polyether sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium C12-14-alkanolamine polyether-2 sulfosuccinate, or a mixture thereof may be used. The amphoteric surfactant may be any one or more selected from the group consisting of betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, amidopropyl betaine, and cocamphoacyl glycinate. The nonionic surfactant may be any one or more selected from the group consisting of octyl/decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauramide, coco amide methyl MEA, and glyceryl monostearate.
The above anionic surfactant may be contained in an amount of 1 to 30% by weight, specifically, 3 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The above amphoteric surfactant may be contained in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, specifically, 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional oils may be used in the compositions of the present invention. The oil may be delivered to the hair by micelles of the cosmetic composition or aggregates formed when diluted in water. The oil may be used without limitation as long as it is absorbed by hair and penetrates, thereby changing the moisture content in the hair. As demonstrated in research literature such as Ruetsch, s.b., et al j.cosmetic.sci., 52 (2001) 169, etc., polar oils tend to penetrate into hair when used, and thus may be candidates for materials that cause physical property changes. As for the degree of polarity, the degree of polarity evaluation method of Evonik corporation, which provides a value in inverse proportion to the interfacial tension value in water and oil in accordance with the oil degree of polarity classification standard, was adopted. More specifically, oil droplets were formed in water using a droplet shape analyzer (Drop Shape Analyzer, KRUESS, germany), and values below 150mN/m were classified as polar oils based on interfacial tension measured by the Young-Laplace equation (Young-Laplace equation).
As non-limiting examples of the above-mentioned oils, water-insoluble nonvolatile polydimethyl siloxane, cyclomethicone, aminated silicon, trimethylsilylamino dimethyl polysiloxane (trimethylilyamod methicone), vinyl silicon or other components collectively called silicon, and derivatives thereof, vegetable oils, animal oils, hydrocarbon oils or synthetic ester oils, and the like can be used. Liquid paraffin, isoparaffin, hydrogenated polydecene, and the like can be used as the hydrocarbon oil, and isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, or C12-15 alkanol benzoate, glyceryl triisooctoate, squalane, palm oil, olive (Olea Europaea) oil, PPG-3 octyl ether (capryl ether), caprylic/Capric triglyceride (Capric/caprylic triglyceride), isostearyl isostearate (Isostearyl Isostearate), coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera), polyglyceryl-6 (Polyglyceryl-6) caprylate (octacaprate), hydrogenated polydecene (Hydrogenated polydecene), jojoba seed (Simmondsia Chinensis seed) oil, di-C12-13 alcohol malate, and the like can be used as the ester oil, but are not limited thereto. In the examples of the present application, GPO (Cegesoft Golden Palm Oil) from BASF corporation was used as the oil.
The above oil may contain 0.05 to 4% by weight, and specifically, may contain 0.1 to 2% by weight.
Also, the cosmetic composition for hair or fiber treatment of the present invention can be used as a shampoo. In this case, in order to further enhance the conditioning effect, additional adjuvants used in the art may be contained within a range not to hinder the object of the present invention. For example, any one or more selected from the group consisting of fatty substances, organic solvents, concentrates, gelling agents, softeners, antioxidants, suspending agents, stabilizers, foaming agents, fragrances, surfactants, water, ionic or nonionic emulsifiers, fillers, metal ion chelating agents, preservatives, vitamins, blocking agents, wetting agents, essential oils, dyes, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic activators and the like which are generally used in hair compositions may be additionally contained.
Also, the composition of the present invention may further include an additive providing characteristics beneficial to the human body. For example, additives that provide favorable properties to the human body such as cleaning, curling, finishing, protecting, blocking, moisturizing, staining, coloring, decolorizing, limiting, deodorizing, preserving, cooling, dehairing, hair growing, anti-dandruff, anti-dehairing, hair nourishing, anti-inflammatory, fragrance attaching, fragrance whitening, aging preventing, wrinkle improving, astringing, relaxing, shrinking, sebum inhibiting, exfoliating, sterilizing, anti-inflammatory, antipruritic, deodorizing, antihistamine, anti-seborrhea, promoting blood circulation, blocking ultraviolet light, or promoting skin metabolism may also be included.
In addition, the composition of the present invention may additionally contain a preservative, a thickener, a viscosity modifier, a pH modifier, a fragrance, a dye, a conditioner, or the like which can be generally used as a component of a hair composition, and these additives can be easily purchased as commercial products. Examples of the preservative include benzoic acid and salts thereof, methyl parahydroxybenzoate, methyl chloroisothiazolinone or a mixture of methyl isothiazolinones (trade name: kathon CG, manufacturing company: the Dow Chemical Company), and the like. As the thickener and viscosity modifier, hypromellose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, sodium xylene sulfonate, ammonium xylene sulfonate, or the like can be used. As the pH adjuster, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, or the like can be used. As the dye, a water-soluble tar pigment or the like can be used. Further, as the conditioning agent, an animal and plant extract, protein variant, higher Fatty Acid (Fatty Acid) and the like can be used.
The composition of the present invention may be prepared in the form of a general emulsion or a dissolvable form.
Furthermore, the composition of the present invention can be prepared into all dosage forms which can be applied to the scalp, such as liquid phase, cream phase, ointment phase or solid phase.
The composition of the present invention may be any one of dosage forms selected from the group consisting of shampoo, conditioner, hair lotion, hair care essence, hair gel, hair mask, restoration agent, and spray.
Effects of the invention
The composition of the present invention is diluted in water during hair treatment to form stable aggregates, and the oil is transferred to the hair, whereby softness (flexibility) is imparted to thicker hair or damaged hair, and the hair is not frizzy and adheres to the head.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a bending stiffness evaluation apparatus of katolech used for evaluating softness of hair bundles.
Fig. 2 is a graph showing bending rigidity, which is a standard for evaluating flexibility of each composition of table 3.
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing the bonding relationship between constituent components of the composition of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a graph showing the result of the transmittance measurement for evaluating the aggregate content of the composition of example 4.
Fig. 5 is a graph evaluating the degree to which the composition of example 4 was rendered conformable after being treated on hot curls.
Fig. 6 is a graph evaluating the extent to which the composition of example 4 became conformable after being treated on natural curly damaged hair.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail by the following examples. The following examples are given by way of illustration only and the scope of the invention is not limited to these examples.
Preparation example
The alkyl cellulose having quaternary alkyl ammonium groups used in the examples of the present invention was UCHANGCF (a strain)
Guar gum used as a raw material for the Dow Chemical synthesis of (A) and KCI synthesis of (B) was used. />
The compositions were prepared in a usual manner according to the formulations shown in table 1 below.
[ Table 1]
Specifically, after adding the polymer, the surfactant was added a plurality of times to dissolve the polymer, and then EDTA 4Na and citric acid monohydrate were added to neutralize the pH. As other ingredients, preservatives, perfumes, dispersants, viscosity modifiers and pH modifiers are added.
Experimental example 1-flexibility (flexibility) evaluation based on bending stiffness measurement
(1) Evaluation method
1mL of the above shampoo was poured into 1g of the hair tress, and the resultant was kneaded for 45 seconds to generate foam, and the foam was rinsed with water at a flow rate of 4 mL/sec for 2 minutes, and this procedure was repeated 5 times. In order to evaluate the softness (flexibility) of the hair subjected to the above treatment, evaluation was performed using a bending stiffness evaluation device KES-FB2-S (KATO TECH, japan). The lower the bending stiffness, the more the softness (flexibility) of the hair is enhanced.
200 hair bundles of 10 cm-sized samples were prepared by pasting 200 hair pieces of 70-80 μm thick after shampoo treatment without any gap. The evaluation method was carried out according to the manual recommended in KATO TECH, which is a method adopted by the fiber evaluation public institution as a standard evaluation in evaluating the bending rigidity of the fiber bundle.
(2) Softness evaluation based on the kind of polymer
*73 comparative examples 1 to 8 and example 1
The formulations of comparative examples 1 to 8 and example 1 were prepared by modifying the polymers in the formulations of table 1 above as shown in table 2 below.
[ Table 2 ]
Specifically, comparative example 1 did not use the polymer in the formulation of table 1, comparative example 2 did not use the polymer in the formulation of table 1, and 1% oil GPO (Cegesoft Golden palm oil) was added.
Comparative example 3 used L80KC as the polymer in the formulation of Table 1 and comparative example 4 used C17 as the polymer in the formulation of Table 1.
*78 comparative example 5 used a general cellulose-based polymer LR30M as the polymer in the formulation of table 1, and comparative example 6 used an alkyl cellulose SX-1300H having a quaternary alkyl ammonium group as the polymer in the formulation of table 1.
Comparative example 7 SX-1300H was used as the polymer in the formulation of table 1, and 1% oil GPO was added.
Comparative example 8 as a polymer in the formulation of Table 1 SX-1300H and L80KC were mixed and used in a 1:1 ratio.
Example 1 SX-1300H and L80KC were mixed 1:1 and used as polymers in the formulation of Table 1, with the addition of 1% oil GPO.
Flexural rigidity evaluation results
The results of evaluating the fiber softness of comparative examples 1 to 8 and example 1 using an evaluating apparatus are shown in table 3 and fig. 2.
[ Table 3 ]
(Unit: gf cm)
The flexural rigidity value of comparative example 3 or comparative example 4, in which guar gum which is generally used as an anti-hair loss shampoo imparting force to hair was used as a polymer, was shown to be larger than that of the other comparative examples, and the value of the anti-hair loss shampoo on the actual market was similar to this value.
Comparative example 5 using a general cellulose polymer showed a value lower than guar gum, and a shampoo for providing softness, which is actually on the market, also used a cellulose polymer, and thus showed a value similar thereto. In comparative example 6 of an alkyl cellulose polymer using a glucose ring C2 in which an alkyl ammonium group was attached to a cellulose-based polymer through ethylene oxide, a very low bending stiffness value was exhibited, similarly to comparative example 5. On the other hand, it is known from comparative examples 6 and 7 that the addition of oil does not exert a great influence on the bending rigidity of hair when an alkyl cellulose polymer having an alkylammonium group is used.
In comparative example 8, guar gum and alkyl cellulose having an alkyl ammonium group were mixed in a ratio of 1:1, and the value thereof was located at the middle of the value obtained in the formulation in which each polymer was used alone.
However, when 1% of oil GPO was added thereto, example 1 showed remarkable results, and showed a significant decrease in bending stiffness, i.e., a significant increase in softness (flexibility). This value is a value much higher than the shampoo that provides softness on the market.
(3) Softness evaluation based on Polymer composition
Comparative examples 9 to 11 and examples 2 to 5
The formulations of comparative examples 9 to 11 and examples 2 to 5 were prepared by varying the polymer compositions in the formulations of table 1 above according to table 4 below.
[ Table 4 ]
Comparative example 9 as a polymer in the formulation of table 1, alkyl cellulose SX-1300H having an alkyl ammonium group and guar gum L80KC were mixed in a 3:1 ratio and used. Comparative example 10 as polymer in the formulation of table 1 SX-1300H and L80KC were prepared according to 0.5:1, and 1% oil GPO was added. Comparative example 11 as polymer in the formulation of table 1 SX-1300H and L80KC were prepared according to 7:1, and 1% oil GPO was added.
Example 2 as polymers in the formulation of table 1 SX-1300H and L80KC were prepared according to 0.8:1, and 1% oil GPO was added. Example 3 as polymers in the formulation of table 1 SX-1300H and L80KC were prepared according to 2:1, and 1% oil GPO was added. Example 4 as polymers in the formulation of table 1 SX-1300H and L80KC were prepared according to 2:1, and 1% oil GPO was added. Example 5 as polymers in the formulation of table 1 SX-1300H and L80KC were prepared according to 5:1, and 1% oil GPO was added.
Flexural rigidity evaluation results
Table 5 below shows the results of evaluation with the fiber bending stiffness evaluation apparatus for comparative examples 9 to 11 and examples 2 to 5.
[ Table 5 ]
| Sample material | Comparative example 9 | Comparative example 10 | Comparative example 11 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 | Example 5 |
| Bending stiffness | 0.486 | 0.432 | 0.439 | 0.366 | 0.301 | 0.283 | 0.354 |
The composition ratio of the alkyl cellulose with alkyl ammonium groups and guar gum in the treatment is 3:1, the lowest bending stiffness was found for the composition of example 4. Namely, flexibility (flexibility) is improved. In comparative example 9 in which oil was not added although the composition ratio was the same, it was found that the softness was not improved, and it was found that the softness was related to oil transfer.
From the above results, it was found that when the alkyl cellulose having an alkylammonium group was 0.8 to 5 parts by weight based on 1 part by weight of guar gum in the oil-containing state, the softness was very excellent as compared with the other proportions.
(4) Softness evaluation based on the amount of oil added
Comparative example 12 and examples 6 to 11
The following table 6 shows that the formulations of comparative example 12 and examples 6 to 11 were prepared by changing the addition amounts of the oils in the formulations of table 1 described above.
[ Table 6 ]
| Sample material | Comparative example 12 | Example 6 | Example 7 | Example 8 | Example 9 | Example 10 | Example 11 |
| Oil (oil) | 0.05％ | 0.1％ | 0.5％ | 0.7％ | 1.5％ | 2％ | 4％ |
Comparative example 12 was added with 0.05% oil GPO and examples 6 to 12 were each added with different amounts of 0.2% to 4% of the same oil.
Flexural rigidity evaluation results
Table 7 below shows the results of evaluation with the fiber bending stiffness evaluation apparatus for comparative example 12 and examples 6 to 11.
[ Table 7 ]
| Sample material | Comparative example 12 | Example 6 | Example 7 | Example 8 | Example 9 | Example 10 | Example 11 |
| Bending stiffness | 0.432 | 0.395 | 0.371 | 0.357 | 0.272 | 0.296 | 0.323 |
(Unit: gf cm)
As shown in table 7 above, when the added oil GPO was 1.5%, the hair was the most soft, and a significant point compared to the results of comparative example 2 and comparative example 7 using oil was that 0.1% to 4% of oil was formulated. However, when the amount of the oil exceeds 2%, it is difficult to maintain the dispersion stability of the formulation, and there is an adverse effect that the rinsing force of hair is reduced during the hair washing and the hair becomes sticky after use, so that it is known that the range of the oil formulation is preferably set to 0.5% to 2%.
(5) Softness evaluation based on the type of oil
Comparative examples 13 and 14 and examples 12 to 14
The formulations of comparative examples 13 and 14 and examples 12 to 14 were prepared by changing the addition amounts of the oils in the formulations of the above table 1 as shown in table 8 below.
[ Table 8 ]
1% of the oil of Table 8 was blended, and after the hair was shampooed, the results shown in Table 9 were obtained.
Flexural rigidity evaluation results
Table 9 below shows the results of evaluation of comparative examples 13 and 14 and examples 12 to 14 using the fiber bending stiffness evaluation apparatus.
[ Table 9 ]
| Sample material | Comparative example 13 | Comparative example 14 | Example 12 | Example 13 | Example 14 |
| Bending stiffness | 0.402 | 0.421 | 0.298 | 0.268 | 0.257 |
As can be seen from Table 9, when polar oils are used in examples 12 to 14, the effect of increasing flexibility can be obtained. This is because the non-polar oils such as comparative examples 13 and 14 are relatively adsorbed on the hair surface because the oil is transferred, whereas the polar oils such as examples 9 and 12 to 14 are adsorbed on the hair and then penetrate into the hair to change the physical properties such as the moisture content in the hair, thereby increasing the softness.
Experimental example 2-checking the connection relationship between the components of the composition
It is generally known that compositions comprising nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants and generally cationic polymers form aggregates when diluted in water, and that oils can be transported by such aggregates.
However, in experimental example 1 of the present invention, it was confirmed that when a polar oil was added to a composition containing an alkyl cellulose having an alkyl ammonium group and guar gum in a specific composition ratio, a significantly excellent softness was obtained as compared with a composition containing a specific cationic polymer alone. It was found that these compositions form a specific binding relationship between the constituent components, and thus a stable "complex aggregate" was formed when diluted in water, whereby the connection relationship between the constituent components of the composition of the present invention was examined.
Specifically, the alkyl group and the surfactant of the alkyl cellulose form micelles to contain oil inside the micelles, and the guar gum may contain the above micelles inside in a granular state, so that the shampoo composition in which the two polymers are mixed builds a stable connection relationship of the model as shown in fig. 3. That is, the combination of the chemical bonding of the oil to the alkyl groups of the alkyl cellulose in the gel phase and the physical bonding of the guar gum in the particle phase forms a complex coacervate, and the oil can be stably transported to the hair surface.
*133Aggregate content measurement
In general, in order to measure the size of aggregates, purified water is placed in a long glass tube, then a sample is placed therein, and the sample is left for 3 days, and then the height of aggregates formed on the bottom surface is measured. However, according to this method, there is a problem in that when the oil content is high, the evaluation cannot be performed because of a problem in dispersion in a state where the oil is contained, and finally, if the polymer is changed, the sedimentation rate is changed, so that the same contrast cannot be achieved. Thus, in this experiment, the transmission of the sample dilution in the stirred state before precipitation occurred was measured, thus achieving an equivalent contrast between the different polymers.
The particle size was analyzed by a particle size analyzer (Mastersizer 2000, malvern instruments) before the experiment was carried out, and as a result, it was found that the size of aggregates was changed due to the polymerization between particles (1 minute: 63. Mu.m, 2 minutes: 64. Mu.m, 15 minutes: 78. Mu.m, 38 minutes: 223. Mu.m), and it was confirmed that the stirring speed did not affect the particle size. Thus, in order to accurately compare the transmittance, the measurement was performed after setting the stirring time of all samples to 1 minute.
In order to directly confirm the degree of formation of complex aggregates, in order to measure the content of aggregates of the composition of example 4, the composition of example 4 was diluted in water while stirring, and the transmittance measured after 1 minute was compared with the height of formation on the bottom surface measured after 3 days of standing, and the pattern based on the diluted concentration was consistent. Thus, fig. 4 shows the results of the transmittance measured for the purpose of making an equivalent comparison between polymers on the premise that quantitative evaluation of the aggregate content is possible.
In general, in washing with shampoo, the components of the shampoo are adsorbed on the hair in a state where the shampoo is diluted to about 5 to 10% (v/v). From FIG. 4, it can be seen that alkyl cellulose exhibits a 50% transmittance at a concentration of about 10% (v/v), and a maximum amount of complex coacervates are stably formed. In contrast, when the dilution amount of guar gum was increased, the content of aggregates was drastically reduced from 15% concentration. In example 4, the permeability of 30% was exhibited at a concentration of about 10% (v/v), and the highest aggregate formation content was formed at about 5 to 10%.
On the other hand, in order to understand the properties of alkyl cellulose that affect the formation of complex aggregates, the content of aggregates was measured by changing the type of cationic polymer. The results are shown in Table 10 below. To confirm the proper composition of the aggregates, evaluations were made using SoftCAT commodity commercialized by Dow chemical.
[ Table 10 ]
From the above results, it was found that when an alkyl cellulose having a hydrophobic substitution index (hydrophobic substitution index) of 30 to 50 and a cationic degree of 2.0 to 2.5 was used, a stable complex coacervate was formed when diluted in water. When the hydrophobicity index exceeds 50, it is difficult to combine with water, and when it is less than 30, the combination with oil becomes poor, so that it is found that when the above range is provided, aggregates are most desirably formed at the interface between water and oil. On the other hand, when the cationic degree% N increases, the binding with the anionic surfactant becomes easy to form a coacervate, but when the cationic degree exceeds the above 2.4%, the viscosity increases significantly to 1 ten thousand cps (2% sol.) or more, thereby decreasing the flowability of the polymer and reducing the formation of a coacervate.
Experimental example 3 evaluation of the fit of Hair
(1) Evaluation of the fit sense of the hair
Based on the above results, shampoos were made and subjected to sensory evaluation. Experiments were performed on 15 men and women, and the conditioning effect of the hair after shampooing was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria for softness.
Experiment #1 is a general hair strength enhancing anti-hair loss shampoo on the market, treated with the shampoo of comparative example 3 using a cationic guar polymer, experiment #2 is a general commercial softness providing shampoo, treated with the shampoo of comparative example 5 using a cationic cellulose polymer, and experiment #3 is a hair conditioner prepared by mixing at 3:1 alkyl cellulose having an alkyl ammonium group and guar gum were treated with the shampoo of example 4 prepared by adding 1% of the polar oil GPO.
In order of perceived soft feel (softness), softness evaluation criteria (in contrast to astringency) were set in accordance with the following items
(5: very flexible); (4: softening); (3: general); (2: astringency); (1: very astringent)
In terms of the degree to which broken hair can be seen at the top, the following evaluation criteria for the degree of the fit (in contrast, frizziness) were set.
(5: very fitting); (4: taking a paste); (3: general); (2: frizzy); (1: very frizzy)
The results are shown in table 11 below as average values.
[ Table 11 ]
| Experimental differentiation | Experiment #1 (comparative example 3) | Experiment #2 (comparative example 5) | Experiment #3 (example 4) |
| Softness | 1.6 | 2.8 | 4.6 |
| Fitting property | 2.4 | 2.5 | 4.8 |
As can be seen from experiment #3 of table 11, the shampoo of the present invention has significantly improved softness as compared with the conventional softness shampoo. Further, the effect of softening and fitting hair was found, and in experiment #3, no effect of crushing hair was observed, regardless of whether the hair of the experimenter was curled, half-curled, and straight, and the hair tended to stick to the head. It follows that the oil transfer achieved by the composition of the invention can be effectively transferred to the hair of humans in a variety of ways.
(2) Evaluation of surface Friction force of Hair
Next, in order to evaluate the conditioning effect and the feel of use, which are soft, the shampoo having the polymer composition of the present invention was evaluated by a device, and friction data was obtained.
Experimental method
The compositions of comparative examples 3 and 5 and example 4 were put into beaulox hair bundles at 10 wt% relative to the weight of hair, foamed for 15 seconds, rubbed for 20 seconds, then rinsed with flowing tap water at 37 ℃ for 15 seconds, the hair was wiped dry with a towel, and after removal of water, the friction was evaluated using MTT 175Miniature Tensile Tester (DiaSTRONG, GB).
After washing the hair after the hair washing treatment for 2 minutes, drying the hair for 2 minutes by a blower, and standing the hair for one day in a constant temperature and humidity room with the humidity of 50% at the temperature of 25 ℃ so that the moisture in the hair reaches a certain level, and then measuring the friction force in the same constant temperature and humidity room. At this time, the percentage of the friction force value (standard value) obtained by dividing the corresponding hair bundle by the washing with sodium lauryl sulfate, which is an anionic surfactant, was calculated, and the results are shown in table 12 below.
Results
[ Table 12 ]
| Experimental differentiation | Experiment #4 (comparative example 3) | Experiment #5 (comparative example 5) | Experiment #6 (example 4) |
| During flushing | 21％ | 55％ | 56％ |
| After drying | 13％ | 21％ | 25％ |
From the above measurements in table 12, it can be seen that shampoos with the polymer compositions of the present invention are rinsed rapidly and the friction after drying is significantly reduced, enhancing the conditioning benefits of softness. That is, it is known from the above examples that the polymer composition produced in the present invention is a component of an excellent hair conditioning cosmetic composition which imparts a soft feel to hair while reducing bending stiffness (enhancing softness) when used as a conditioner.
(3) Evaluation of hair-dressing Property of iron curls
It was evaluated whether the present shampoo actually provided softness to reduce the amount of frizzy hair that appears in a person with a large amount of hair or a person with damaged hair, and provided a finishing effect as a whole to provide a fitting property.
Experimental method
To make hair curls, a curling operation was performed on the phoenix hairs. First, 11% ammonium thioglycolate (Ammonium thioglycolate) was prepared, and then, the resulting product was wound with a roll stand at a high temperature to prepare 3% hydrogen peroxide, and then, the resulting product was finally washed with sodium lauryl sulfate. The damaged hair thus treated has frizziness and frizziness, and exhibits a fanned-out shape in the hair bundle in which the hair is agglomerated.
Experiment #7 was treated with the anionic surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate, experiment #8 was treated with the composition of comparative example 5, and experiment #9 was treated with the shampoo of example 4 having an enhanced softness effect. Then, in order to observe how the fan-like angle changes, the lateral width thereof was observed.
Results
The results of the above experiments are shown in table 13 below and fig. 3.
[ Table 13 ]
From the results shown in Table 13 and FIG. 3, it is apparent that the composition of the present invention, when treated, effectively transmits oil through alkyl cellulose having an alkyl ammonium group and guar gum to penetrate into the hair, and the broken hair is remarkably reduced as compared with hair treated with other shampoos, thereby providing the hair with a uniform texture. Furthermore, the effect of straightening curls without using a chemical silicon series adsorbent can also be observed.
(4) Evaluation of hair-dressing Property of Natural curly Hair
Then, it was confirmed whether or not the hair roller has an effect of providing a feeling of smoothness against frizziness caused by broken hair existing in the natural curly hair bundle.
Experimental method
The Nadula bundles (Nadula Hair Brazilian Natural Wave) were shampooed to observe the middle width, and how the fan angle changed. Specifically, experiment # 10 was treated with the anionic surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate, while experiment #11 was treated with the composition of comparative example 5, and experiment #12 was treated with the shampoo of example 4 having softness enhancing effect.
Results
Table 14 below and fig. 4 show the results of the above experiments.
[ Table 14 ]
As can be seen from fig. 4 and table 14, the composition of example 4 improves the hair adhesion when used in natural hair curling.
From the above examples, it is known that the shampoo having the composition of the present invention significantly improves softness, so that it imparts adhesion to hair and hair manageability, and is an excellent ingredient of a hair conditioning cosmetic composition.
Based on the above description, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics thereof. The above-described embodiments are illustrative in all respects, and should not be construed as limiting the invention. The scope of the invention should be construed to include the meaning and scope of the claims and all changes and modifications that can be derived from the concept equivalent thereto, and should not be construed to include only the above description.
Claims (7)
1. A composition for hair or fiber treatment cosmetic composition comprising alkyl cellulose, surfactant, guar gum and polar oil, wherein,
the above alkyl celluloses and guar gum have a weight ratio of 0.8 to 5:1,
wherein the alkyl cellulose is polyquaternium-67.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein,
the polyquaternium-67 contains more than one C 10-20 Alkyl of the above C 10-20 Together with the above surfactant, form micelles.
3. The composition of claim 2, wherein,
the micelle is accommodated in the guar gum, and the oil is carried in the micelle.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein,
the composition has a composition that forms aggregates: diluted in water to a concentration of 5 to 15% (v/v) to exhibit a transmission of 20 to 40%.
5. The composition of claim 1, wherein,
the oil is present in an amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the total composition.
6. The composition of claim 1, wherein,
the above polyquaternium-67 has a hydrophobic displacement index of 30 to 50.
7. The composition of claim 1, wherein,
the above polyquaternium-67 has a cationicity (% N) of 2.0 to 2.5.
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| CN102448432A (en) * | 2009-05-28 | 2012-05-09 | 株式会社资生堂 | Hair cosmetic |
| CN105581917A (en) * | 2016-02-23 | 2016-05-18 | 广州市高姿化妆品有限公司 | Cosmetic composition for enhancing tensile strength and extensibility of keratin fiber, and especially hair |
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