CN109667178A - 一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法 - Google Patents

一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法 Download PDF

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CN109667178A
CN109667178A CN201710955488.7A CN201710955488A CN109667178A CN 109667178 A CN109667178 A CN 109667178A CN 201710955488 A CN201710955488 A CN 201710955488A CN 109667178 A CN109667178 A CN 109667178A
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周静
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Yuyao Rongxin Mao Ma Products Factory
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法，旨在提供一种表面磨白、褪色、清爽自然绒毛少，织物富有弹性，手感柔软，色泽正反面有较大的反差，有复古怀旧感的一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法。其特征依次包括有对纤维的丝光处理、纺制纱线、纺织面料、固化防缩处理、成衣、染色、石洗服装、烘干整理。该方法通过前期的两次防缩处理和选用浸透蛋白酶和去污剂的火山石石洗，成功控制通常毛纺面料用砂洗缩绒严重的弊端，而又有效防止在做旧过程中对面料的过度损伤，延长服装的使用寿命。

Description

一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法
技术领域
本发明涉及毛纺织产品，尤其涉及一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法。
背景技术
随着物质生活水平的提高，广大消费者对粗纺毛织物面料服装产品的质量及服用性能的要求不再局限于保暖，消费者既需要舒适，更追求多样化、个性化和有特色的产品。如复古怀旧风格的牛仔裤，特意制成臀部和膝盖处褪色，甚至磨破的状态，这种的做法通常是采用褪色剂、砂洗等专用的设备进行处理。而对于用毛纺织物面料做的服装，由于强度比牛仔裤的面料低许多，尤其是毛纺织物收缩太大，因此无法采用通常类似于做牛仔裤的方法来对毛纺织物面料做的服装进行做旧处理。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种表面磨白、褪色、清爽自然绒毛少，织物富有弹性，手感柔软，色泽正反面有较大的反差，有复古怀旧感的一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法。
为了达到上述要求，一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法：其特征依次包括有对纤维的丝光处理、纺制纱线、纺织面料、固化防缩处理、成衣、染色、石洗服装、烘干整理，具体处理的工艺是：
(1)丝光处理：对需要制成做旧毛纺织面料的纤维进行丝光处理，剥去纤维表面的鳞片；
(2)纺制纱线、织成面料：用剥去表面鳞片的纤维按粗纺方法纺制纱线、将纱线织成面料；
(3)对面料进行固化防缩处理，处理工艺：
处理液配比→常温下面料在处理液中两浸两轧，轧余率70％→加热到120℃，保温6min预烘→升温到140℃，保温4min焙烘→降到室温；
其中处理液配比按每升水的用量：用水溶性聚氨酯羊毛防缩剂，用量100-150g/L、NaHCO3用量3-6g/L、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚渗透剂1.5g/L；
(4)成衣：用防缩处理过的面料根据要求制成服装；
(5)染色：选用中性染料、80％浓度的醋酸0.8-1.2％、硫酸钠4.5-5.5％，浴比1∶10～20染色，使中性染料尽量在表面上色，控制染料不深入织物的纱线内部；pH值4.5-5促染，快速升高温度2.5℃/分钟，始染温度55℃，保温温度85℃，保温时间8-12分钟，织物的皂洗色牢度控制在2.5级之内；
(6)石洗服装：
石洗介质的选择：选用大小30-50mm的火山石，火山石指标：比重0.3-0.4g/cm3、吸水率50％-60％、气孔体积占火山石体积50％以上；
火山石的浸泡：将干燥的火山石浸泡在蛋白酶和去污剂的水溶液中1-2小时，并搅拌使火山石充分吸收水溶液，其中蛋白酶用量为每公斤织物0.4-0.6克,去污剂用量为每公斤织物0.25-0.35克，水与蛋白酶的重量比为4.5-5.5∶1；
石洗在大型卧式工业洗衣机中进行，具体工艺如下：
服装浸湿：将服装浸泡在温水中，水浴比1∶10,水温45℃，浸泡8-12分钟→加入溶液浸泡过的火山石：火山石用量每公斤织物40-60克，→开启洗衣机开始搅拌石洗，并升温，升温速度1℃/分钟,至62-67℃，石洗12-16分钟→自然降温到55℃，石洗25-35分钟→升温到72-77℃，石洗8-12分钟→取出火山石→加清水一次清洗，降温到35-40℃，浴比1∶25，清洗8-12分钟→加清水二次清洗：降温到30-35℃，浴比1∶25，清洗12-16分钟→脱水出缸；
(7)烘干整理：对石洗后的服装按常规方法进行烘干和熨烫整理成成品。
所述的蛋白酶为木瓜蛋白酶。
所述的粗毛纺织物所用的纤维为羊毛。
用该一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法，由于采用了纺纱前纤维的丝光处理，剥去纤维表面的鳞片，使得纤维表面变得平滑，呈椭圆状，当纤维相互摩擦时，失去鳞片的纤维缩绒性将大大降低，从而提高了面料的防缩性能。另外在面料上采用M-501羊毛防缩剂处理，加固了纤维间的稳定性，使织物固化定型，对较低紧度的织物在石洗柔软中保持纱线结构相对稳定，不滑移、转动，从而在石洗过程中只磨表面，又能增加石洗的效率。在做旧的方式中采用先配置溶液，再把火山石浸泡在配置的溶液内，让火山石浸透溶液，用经浸透蛋白酶和去污剂的火山石石洗，使其在石洗中缓慢释放蛋白酶和去污剂。蛋白酶有分解蛋白质的功能，同时控制温度发挥蛋白酶的效能，使面料表面的绒毛稀少。在石洗过程中，用具有一定粗糙度和重量合适的火山石，对服装表面进行冲击、搓揉使服装表面磨白、褪色、清爽自然绒毛少，织物富有弹性，手感更加柔软，色泽正反面有较大的反差，有复古怀旧感。该方法通过前期的两次防缩处理和选用浸透蛋白酶和去污剂的火山石石洗，成功控制通常毛纺面料用砂洗缩绒严重的弊端，而又有效防止在做旧过程中对面料的过度损伤，延长服装的使用寿命。
具体实施方式
下面通过实施例对本发明作进一步的描述。
一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法：依次包括有对纤维的丝光处理、纺制纱线、纺织面料、固化防缩处理、成衣、染色、石洗服装、烘干整理，具体处理的工艺是：
(1)防缩丝光处理：对需要制成做旧毛纺织面料的羊毛纤维进行丝光处理，剥去纤维表面的鳞片，防缩丝光处理的工艺：工艺流程前处理→过氧乙酸剥鳞片处理→水洗→脱氧→水洗→烘干→测试前处理工艺AEO-9浓度2g/L，40℃×10min，浴比1∶50。脱氧工艺过氧化氢酶浓度4g/L，40℃×10min，浴比1∶50。
(2)纺制纱线、织成面料：用剥去表面鳞片的纤维按常规方法纺制纱线、将纱线织成面料；
(3)对面料进行固化防缩处理，处理工艺：
处理液配比→常温下面料在处理液中两浸两轧，轧余率70％→加热到120℃，保温6min预烘→升温到140℃，保温4min焙烘→降到室温；
其中处理液配比按每升水的用量：用广东德美精细化工股份有限公司生产的水溶性聚氨酯羊毛防缩剂DM-3501，用量100-150g/L、NaHCO3用量3-6g/L、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚渗透剂1.5g/L；
(4)成衣：用防缩处理过的面料根据要求制成服装；
(5)染色：选用中性染料、80％浓度的醋酸0.8-1.2％、硫酸钠4.5-5.5％，浴比1∶10～20染色，使中性染料尽量在表面上色，控制染料不深入织物的纱线内部；pH值4.5-5促染，快速升高温度2.5℃/分钟，始染温度55℃，保温温度85℃，保温时间8-12分钟，织物的皂洗色牢度控制在2.5级之内；
(6)石洗服装：
石洗介质的选择：选用大小30-50mm的火山石，火山石指标：比重0.3-0.4g/cm3、吸水率50％-60％、气孔体积占火山石体积50％以上；
火山石的浸泡：将干燥的火山石浸泡在木瓜蛋白酶(Papain)和去污剂的水溶液中1-2小时，并搅拌使火山石充分吸收水溶液，其中木瓜蛋白酶用量为每公斤织物0.4-0.6克；去污剂采用苏州市莱德纺化有限公司生产的低泡特殊精练剂脏污去除剂HLS，用量为每公斤织物0.25-0.35克，水与木瓜蛋白酶的重量比为4.5-5.5∶1；
石洗在大型卧式工业洗衣机中进行，具体工艺如下：
服装浸湿：将服装浸泡在温水中，水浴比1∶10,水温45℃，浸泡8-12分钟→加入溶液浸泡过的火山石：火山石用量每公斤织物40-60克，→开启洗衣机开始搅拌石洗，并升温，升温速度1℃/分钟,至62-67℃，石洗12-16分钟→自然降温到55℃，石洗25-35分钟→升温到72-77℃，石洗8-12分钟→取出火山石→加清水一次清洗，降温到35-40℃，浴比1∶25，清洗8-12分钟→加清水二次清洗：降温到30-35℃，浴比1∶25，清洗12-16分钟→脱水出缸；
(7)烘干整理：对石洗后的服装按常规方法进行烘干和熨烫，整理成成品。
上述未提及的方法、所用材料的品种、用量均以常规方法处理和选用，不再详细叙述。

Claims (1)

1.一种石洗柔软粗毛纺织物的方法，其特征依次包括有对羊毛的丝光处理、纺制纱线、纺织面料、固化防缩处理、成衣、染色、石洗服装、烘干整理，具体处理的工艺是：
(1)丝光处理：对需要制成做旧毛纺织面料的羊毛进行丝光处理，剥去羊毛表面的鳞片；
(2)纺制纱线、织成面料：用剥去表面鳞片的羊毛按粗纺方法纺制纱线、将纱线织成面料；
(3)对面料进行固化防缩处理，处理工艺：
处理液配比→常温下面料在处理液中两浸两轧，轧余率70％→加热到120℃，保温6min预烘→升温到140℃，保温4min焙烘→降到室温；
其中处理液配比按每升水的用量：用水溶性聚氨酯羊毛防缩剂，用量100-150g/L、NaHCO3用量3-6g/L、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚渗透剂1.5g/L；
(4)成衣：用防缩处理过的面料根据要求制成服装；
(5)染色：选用中性染料、80％浓度的醋酸0.8-1.2％、硫酸钠4.5-5.5％，浴比1∶10～20染色，使中性染料尽量在表面上色，控制染料不深入织物的纱线内部；pH值4.5-5促染，快速升高温度2.5℃/分钟，始染温度55℃，保温温度85℃，保温时间8-12分钟，织物的皂洗色牢度控制在2.5级之内；
(6)石洗服装：
石洗介质的选择：选用大小30-50mm的火山石，火山石指标：比重0.3-0.4g/cm3、吸水率50％-60％、气孔体积占火山石体积50％以上；
火山石的浸泡：将干燥的火山石浸泡在木瓜蛋白酶和去污剂的水溶液中1-2小时，并搅拌使火山石充分吸收水溶液，其中木瓜蛋白酶用量为每公斤织物0.4-0.6克,去污剂用量为每公斤织物0.25-0.35克，水与木瓜蛋白酶的重量比为4.5-5.5∶1；
石洗在大型卧式工业洗衣机中进行，具体工艺如下：
服装浸湿：将服装浸泡在温水中，水浴比1∶10,水温45℃，浸泡8-12分钟→加入溶液浸泡过的火山石：火山石用量每公斤织物40-60克，→开启洗衣机开始搅拌石洗，并升温，升温速度1℃/分钟,至62-67℃，石洗12-16分钟→自然降温到55℃，石洗25-35分钟→升温到72-77℃，石洗8-12分钟→取出火山石→加清水一次清洗，降温到35-40℃，浴比1∶25，清洗8-12分钟→加清水二次清洗：降温到30-35℃，浴比1∶25，清洗12-16分钟→脱水出缸；
(7)烘干整理：对石洗后的服装按常规方法进行烘干和熨烫整理成成品。
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112663352A (zh) * 2021-01-20 2021-04-16 魔力薇薇(上海)服饰科技有限公司 一种轻质牛仔服装及其制备方法

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