CN109549859B - Low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN109549859B
CN109549859B CN201811637595.6A CN201811637595A CN109549859B CN 109549859 B CN109549859 B CN 109549859B CN 201811637595 A CN201811637595 A CN 201811637595A CN 109549859 B CN109549859 B CN 109549859B
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钟晓明
何杨鹏
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Guangzhou Huaxi Biotechnology Co ltd
Huanan Industrial Technology Research Institute of Zhejiang University
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Huanan Industrial Technology Research Institute of Zhejiang University
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/066Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/70Biological properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/72Hypo-allergenic

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Abstract

The invention provides a low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 30-60 parts of primary emulsion, 10-20 parts of hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, 10-40 parts of grease, 1-5 parts of silica gel and 1-10 parts of organic silicon resin film-forming agent. The sunscreen cosmetic oil is in a structure of oil-in-water (O/W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W/Si) by silicone oil, so that the oil-phase sunscreen agent is wrapped at the innermost layer, and the film-forming agent is added at the outermost layer. According to the structure, on one hand, the oil-phase sunscreen agent in the innermost layer can be spread on the outermost phase of the formed film, so that the sunscreen agent can be uniformly distributed on the surface of the skin without easily gathering wrinkles, and the whole sunscreen effect is improved; on the other hand, the outermost phase formed by the membrane can also prevent the oil-phase sunscreen agent from permeating into the stratum corneum, thereby reducing the irritation and potential harm of the oil-phase sunscreen agent and improving the sunscreen effect and safety performance.

Description

Low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Most of the commercially available sunscreen cosmetics are generally oil-in-water or water-in-oil systems, and the available sunscreen oil and fat such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and the like are either internal phase or external phase, so that the production process has the characteristics of convenience and simplicity in operation.
However, in oil-in-water or water-in-oil systems, most sunscreens are lipid materials with high polarity and low molecular weight, which easily penetrate deep into the stratum corneum and cause irritation or other potential hazards.
Therefore, the search for a low-irritation multi-emulsion sunscreen cosmetic is a problem to be solved in the field.
Disclosure of Invention
The sunscreen cosmetic is characterized in that an O/W/O or O/W/Si type multiple emulsification system is utilized, sunscreen oil with irritation and potential hazards is wrapped in an oil phase at the innermost layer, and a film-forming agent is added in the oil phase (O) or a silicone oil phase (Si) at the outermost layer, so that the sunscreen oil is not easy to permeate into the horny layer, and the mild multiple emulsification sunscreen cosmetic is prepared.
In order to realize the purpose of the invention, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: a low-irritation multi-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic comprises the following components in parts by weight: 30-60 parts of primary emulsion, 10-20 parts of hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, 10-40 parts of grease, 1-5 parts of silica gel and 1-10 parts of organic silicon resin film-forming agent.
Preferably, the colostrum is a mixture of oil phase sunscreen, emulsifier, chelating agent, preservative.
Preferably, the colostrum comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-30 parts of oil phase sun-screening agent, 1-5 parts of emulsifier, 0.02-0.05 part of chelating agent and 0.05-0.2 part of preservative.
Preferably, the oil phase sunscreen agent is one of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, benzophenone-3, ethyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl cetyl alcohol, C9-C13 isoparaffin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dibutyl adipate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate) ester, or any combination thereof.
Preferably, the emulsifier is one of PEG-45 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-80, a mixture of C20-C22 alcohol phosphate and C20-C22 alcohol, a mixture of cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol, or any combination thereof.
Preferably, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.
Preferably, the preservative is one or a combination of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerin.
Preferably, the hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide is stearic acid modified titanium dioxide, trimethyloctylsilane modified titanium dioxide.
Preferably, the hydrophobically modified zinc oxide is a polydimethylsiloxane-modified zinc oxide or a trimethyloctylsilane-modified zinc oxide.
Preferably, the grease is one of polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, octylpolydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl alcohol, isododecane or any combination thereof.
Preferably, the silicone gel is one of or any combination of a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane, a mixture of PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and mineral oil, a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane/polyglycerol-3 cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane, a mixture of lauryl polydimethylsiloxane/polyglycerol-3 cross-linked polymer and squalane.
Preferably, the organic silicon resin film-forming agent is one or the combination of a mixture of acrylic acid (ester)/polydimethylsiloxane copolymer and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, and a mixture of trimethylsiloxy alkoxy silicate and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:
(1) heating the oil phase sunscreen agent to be completely dissolved, cooling to below 40 ℃, and confirming that no crystal is separated out to form an oil phase A;
(2) adding a preservative and a chelating agent into water, and uniformly mixing to form a water phase;
(3) adding an emulsifier into the water phase obtained in the step (2), heating for dissolving, uniformly stirring, cooling to below 40 ℃, and adding the oil phase A obtained in the step (1) into the water phase under a homogeneous condition to form primary emulsion;
(4) dispersing the hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, grease, silica gel and a film-forming agent uniformly under a homogenizing condition to form an oil phase B;
(5) and (4) slowly adding the obtained primary emulsion into the oil phase B in the step (4) under the condition of low-speed homogenization, and uniformly dispersing.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: because the multiple emulsified sunscreen cosmetic oil is of a structure of oil-in-water (O/W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W/Si) by silicone oil, the oil-phase sunscreen agent is wrapped at the innermost layer, and the film-forming agent is added at the outermost layer. Therefore, during the coating process, the lipophilic component containing the film forming agent at the outermost phase can firstly contact the skin, the W/O system at the outermost phase can break emulsion, and the lipophilic film forming agent and the inorganic sunscreen agent can form a film-shaped structure on the skin; the inner O/W system also breaks emulsion in the subsequent coating process, on one hand, the oil-phase sunscreen agent in the innermost layer can be spread on the outermost phase of the formed film, and the film has already paved wrinkles of the skin, so that the sunscreen agent can be uniformly distributed on the surface of the skin and is not easy to wrinkle and gather, and the integral sunscreen effect is improved; on the other hand, the outermost phase formed by the membrane can also prevent the oil-phase sunscreen agent from permeating into the stratum corneum, thereby reducing the irritation and potential harm of the oil-phase sunscreen agent and improving the sunscreen effect and safety performance.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a multi-layer O/W/O microscopic view of a low irritation multiple emulsion sunscreen cosmetic of the present invention.
Detailed Description
In order to more concisely and clearly demonstrate technical solutions, objects and advantages of the present invention, the following detailed description of the present invention is provided with reference to specific embodiments and accompanying drawings.
Examples 1-6 sunscreen cosmetic formulations, as shown in Table 1:
Figure BDA0001930411310000041
Figure BDA0001930411310000051
Figure BDA0001930411310000061
example 7
The embodiment provides a preparation method of a low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:
(1) heating the oil phase sunscreen agent to be completely dissolved, cooling to below 40 ℃, and confirming that no crystal is separated out to form an oil phase A; wherein the oil phase sunscreen agent is a mixture of 0.5 parts ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and 0.5 parts ethylhexyl cetyl.
(2) Adding a preservative and a chelating agent into water, and uniformly mixing to form a water phase; wherein the chelating agent is 0.02 part of EDTA disodium, and the preservative is 0.1 part of phenoxyethanol and 0.05 part of ethylhexyl glycerol.
(3) Adding an emulsifier into the water phase obtained in the step (2), heating to dissolve, stirring uniformly, cooling to below 40 ℃, and adding the oil phase A obtained in the step (1) into the water phase under a homogeneous condition to form primary emulsion, wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of 0.8 part of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil and 0.2 part of polysorbate-80.
(4) Dispersing titanium dioxide modified by stearic acid, grease, silica gel and a film-forming agent uniformly under a homogenizing condition to form an oil phase B; wherein the grease is a mixture of 5 parts of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, 5 parts of octylpolydimethylsiloxane, 5 parts of polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, 10 parts of ethylhexyl palmitate and 15 parts of isododecane; the silicone gel was a mixture of 5 parts polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer; the film forming agent is a mixture of acrylic acid (ester)/polydimethylsiloxane copolymer and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane.
(5) And (4) slowly adding the obtained primary emulsion into the oil phase B in the step (4) under the condition of low-speed homogenization, and uniformly dispersing.
The multiple emulsion sunscreen cosmetics prepared in examples 1 to 6 were subjected to effect evaluation
Patch test on human skin
Number of test population: 60 persons; age: between 20-50 years old; health condition: the tested skin is healthy, has no allergic history of the skin disease and meets the voluntary selection standard of the tested subject. The total number was 6 groups of 10 people each.
The spot pasting method comprises the following steps: selecting a qualified spot tester, dripping 0.020 g-0.025 g of a tested object into the spot tester in a closed spot patch test mode, externally applying a special adhesive tape to the back of the tested object, removing the tested object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions after 0.5, 6, 12, 24 and 48 hours after the tested object is removed respectively, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in the cosmetic hygiene standard.
And (3) test results:
the result of the human body skin patch test shows that: each group of subjects observed skin reactions at 0.5, 6, 12, 24, 48 hours by the sunscreen cosmetic patch test of the present invention of examples 1-6, wherein 0 cases showed adverse skin reactions, indicating that the sunscreen cosmetic was non-irritating to the skin and safe to use.
As can be seen from the attached figure 1, the sunscreen cosmetic provided by the invention has an obvious multi-layer emulsification structure, so that the oil-phase sunscreen agent is wrapped in the innermost layer, and the potential irritant sunscreen agent is wrapped in the innermost layer through multiple emulsification.
The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims (2)

1. The low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 30-60 parts of primary emulsion, 10-20 parts of hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, 10-40 parts of grease, 1-5 parts of silica gel and 1-10 parts of organic silicon resin film-forming agent;
the colostrum comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-30 parts of oil phase sun-screening agent, 1-5 parts of emulsifier, 0.02-0.05 part of chelating agent and 0.05-0.2 part of preservative;
the organic silicon resin film-forming agent is one or the combination of a mixture of acrylic acid (ester)/polydimethylsiloxane copolymer and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and a mixture of trimethylsiloxy alkoxy silicate and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane;
the oil-phase sunscreen agent is any combination of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, benzophenone-3, ethyl diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl cetyl alcohol, C9-C13 isoparaffin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dibutyl adipate and pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate);
the emulsifier is one or any combination of PEG-45 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polysorbate-80, a mixture of C20-C22 alcohol phosphate and C20-C22 alcohol, and a mixture of cetearyl glucoside and cetearyl alcohol;
the grease is one or any combination of polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, octyl polydimethylsiloxane, isononyl isononanoate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl alcohol and isododecane;
the silicone gel is one or any combination of a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane, a mixture of PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and mineral oil, a mixture of polydimethylsiloxane/polyglycerol-3 cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane, and a mixture of lauryl polydimethylsiloxane/polyglycerol-3 cross-linked polymer and squalane;
the preparation method of the low-irritation multiple-emulsification sunscreen cosmetic comprises the following steps:
(1) heating the oil phase sunscreen agent to be completely dissolved, cooling to below 40 ℃, and confirming that no crystal is separated out to form an oil phase A;
(2) adding a preservative and a chelating agent into water, and uniformly mixing to form a water phase;
(3) adding an emulsifier into the water phase obtained in the step (2), heating for dissolving, uniformly stirring, cooling to below 40 ℃, and adding the oil phase A obtained in the step (1) into the water phase under a homogeneous condition to form primary emulsion;
(4) dispersing the hydrophobically modified titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, grease, silica gel and a film-forming agent uniformly under a homogenizing condition to form an oil phase B;
(5) and (4) slowly adding the obtained primary emulsion into the oil phase B in the step (4) under the condition of low-speed homogenization, and uniformly dispersing.
2. The low-irritation multiple emulsion sunscreen cosmetic of claim 1 wherein said preservative is one or a combination of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin.
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WO2020227908A1 (en) * 2019-05-14 2020-11-19 Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd. Quick breaking w/o-emulsion free from cyclomethicones
CN110302109A (en) * 2019-07-18 2019-10-08 福建省亚热带植物研究所 A kind of oil/water containing peony seed oil/oil type sunscreen and preparation method thereof
CN112168722A (en) * 2020-10-23 2021-01-05 广州美莱洁化妆品开发有限公司 Sunscreen essence emulsion capable of effectively resisting ultraviolet injury and preparation method thereof
CN112370406A (en) * 2020-11-30 2021-02-19 广东丸美生物技术股份有限公司 Low-irritation sunscreen lotion and preparation method thereof
CN113397992B (en) * 2021-07-12 2023-03-31 广州立白企业集团有限公司 Sunscreen composition and water-in-oil type emulsified cosmetic with sunscreen composition

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CN108938470A (en) * 2018-10-25 2018-12-07 上海儒溪生物科技有限公司 A kind of sun-proof BB frost of O/W/O multiplet and preparation method thereof

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CN106309147A (en) * 2016-10-09 2017-01-11 澳宝化妆品(惠州)有限公司 Sunscreen cosmetic composition with high safeness and preparation method thereof
CN108464947A (en) * 2018-04-12 2018-08-31 苏州绿叶日用品有限公司 Include the cosmetic composition and preparation method thereof of film forming agent and microsphere particle
CN108938470A (en) * 2018-10-25 2018-12-07 上海儒溪生物科技有限公司 A kind of sun-proof BB frost of O/W/O multiplet and preparation method thereof

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