JP7017971B2 - Underwater oil type emulsified cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing a sparingly soluble ultraviolet absorber and nicotinamide, and more specifically, an oil-in-water oil that is not sticky, has an excellent feel in use, and has excellent stability over time. It is related to type emulsified cosmetics.

The skin causes stains, wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation, etc. due to internal factors such as aging and stress, and external factors such as ultraviolet rays and dry air. Among them, morphological changes such as wrinkles and sagging greatly affect the impression of appearance, so many people want prevention and improvement. Various active ingredients have been proposed to improve these wrinkles and sagging, and nicotinamide is known as one of them. Nicotinamide is a vitamin and has high safety, and is applied to skin anti-aging cosmetics (see, for example, Patent Document 1). However, when a large amount of nicotinamide is added, an undesired feeling of use such as stickiness is desired. (For example, refer to Patent Document 2), and improvement studies have been conducted.

On the other hand, UV protection is also important for the prevention of wrinkles and sagging, and eventually for the prevention of skin aging, and as a cosmetic having a high UV protection effect, a cosmetic containing a UV-A absorber (see, for example, Patent Document 3). )It has been known. However, many UV-A absorbers are solid and sparingly soluble at room temperature (slightly soluble in both water and non-polar oils), and crystal precipitation is observed over time, and oil agents are used to stably mix these. And by increasing the content of the surfactant, there is a problem that stickiness occurs.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 10-130135 Special Table 2003-502435 Gazette Special Table 2004-520356 Gazette

Therefore, the present invention provides a cosmetic product that can approach skin aging phenomena such as wrinkles and sagging from both sides of prevention and improvement, has a good usability, and has excellent stability over time. Make it an issue.

As a result of diligent studies, the present inventor has made an oil-in-water emulsified composition using a specific nonionic surfactant under the condition that a sparingly soluble ultraviolet absorber and nicotinic acid amide coexist in a large amount. By doing so, it was found that a cosmetic having a fresh feeling of use without stickiness, no crystal precipitation, and excellent stability over time can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed.

That is, in the present invention, the following components (A) to (E):
(A) 1-8% solid UV absorber at 25 ° C
(B) Polar oil liquid at 25 ° C. (C) Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil and / or polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester (D) nicotinic acid amide 2-10%
(E) The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing a partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer.

Since the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention has good stability, a uniform cosmetic film can be obtained and a high ultraviolet protection effect is obtained. In addition, since it has a non-greasy and fresh feeling, it can be used all year round, and is useful as a cosmetic that prevents and improves skin aging phenomena such as wrinkles and sagging over a long period of time.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The component (A) UV absorber solid at 25 ° C. used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used for cosmetics, and specific examples thereof include bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine and diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoic acid. Examples thereof include hexyl acid, ethylhexyltriazone, t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane and the like, and one or more of these can be used.

The content of the component (A) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 8% by mass (hereinafter, simply abbreviated as%), more preferably 3 to 6%. Within this range, the stability is better, and the feeling of use is good while having the ultraviolet protection effect that can be expected to prevent wrinkles and sagging.

The polar oil liquid at 25 ° C. of the component (B) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used for cosmetics, and is, for example, octyldodecyl myristate (IOB = 0.09), 2-ethylhexane. Cetyl acid (IOB = 0.13), octyldodecyl neopentate (IOB = 0.13), isostearyl neopentate (IOB = 0.14), isotridecyl isononanoate (IOB = 0.15), isopropyl isostearate (IOB) = 0.15), trimethylolpropane triisostearate (IOB = 0.16), olive oil (IOB = 0.16), isopropyl palmitate (IOB = 0.16), hexyl laurate (IOB = 0.17) , Isopropyl myristate (IOB = 0.18), Isodecyl isononanoate (IOB = 0.19), Alkyl benzoate (C12-15) (IOB = 0.19), Isononyl isononanoate (IOB = 0.20), Isodecyl neopentate (IOB = 0.22), neopentyl glycol dicaprate (IOB = 0.25), propylene glycol dicaprate (IOB = 0.26), diisostearyl malate (IOB = 0.28), para 2-Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (IOB value = 0.28), neopentyl glycol diethylhexanate (IOB = 0.32), diethylhexyl succinate (IOB = 0.32), propylene glycol dicaprylate (IOB = 0) .32), Di (capryl / capric acid) propylene glycol (IOB = 0.32), glyceryl tri2-ethylhexanoate (IOB = 0.35), pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (IOB = 0.35), Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (IOB = 0.41), castor oil (IOB = 0.42), and the like can be mentioned, and one or more of these can be used. Among these, from the viewpoint of the solubility of the component (A), it is particularly preferable to include one having an IOB value of 0.15 to 0.35. The IOB value refers to the ratio of the inorganic value (IV) to the organic value (OV) in the organic conceptual diagram, that is, "inorganic value (IV) / organic value (OV)".

The content of the component (B) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 10 to 30%, more preferably 15 to 25%. Within this range, the solubility of the component (A) is also excellent, and the stability is further excellent. Further, in the present invention, the content of the component (B) is preferably twice or more the content of the component (A) in order to dissolve the component (A) and suppress crystal precipitation.

The component (C) used in the present invention is a nonionic surfactant obtained by addition-polymerizing ethylene oxide to each of hardened castor oil or sorbitan fatty acid ester, and has an HLB value of 9 to 17 from the viewpoint of emulsion stability. preferable. Specific examples include polyoxyethylene (20) hardened castor oil, polyoxyethylene (40) hardened castor oil, polyoxyethylene (60) hardened castor oil, polyoxyethylene (80) hardened castor oil, and monooleic acid polyoxy. Examples thereof include ethylene (20) sorbitan and polyoxyethylene trioxyethylene (20) sorbitan, and one or more of these can be used.

The content of the component (C) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 3%, more preferably 1 to 2%. Within this range, the stability is more excellent and the usability is good.

The component (D) nicotinic acid amide used in the present invention is an amide compound of nicotinic acid (vitamin B3 / niacin). Nicotinamide is a water-soluble vitamin, which is a known substance that is one of the B vitamins, and can be extracted from natural products (rice bran, etc.) or synthesized by a known method. Specifically, those listed in the 17th revised Japanese Pharmacopoeia can be used.

The content of the component (D) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 2 to 10%, more preferably 3 to 8%. Within this range, the effects of improving rough skin and improving the firmness and elasticity of the skin can be fully felt, and the feeling of use becomes even better.

The component (E) partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is generally used for cosmetics. The component (E) is a polymer obtained by cross-linking organopolysiloxane and having a partially three-dimensional cross-linked structure, and is composed of RSiO units and RSiO _1.5 units, RSiO _0.5 units and / or. It may contain ₂ units of SiO. A part of R of the structural unit has a structural unit modified with an alkyl group or a phenyl group.

Specific examples of the component (E) include (vinyldimethicone / lauryldimethicone) crosspolymer, (dimethicone / phenyldimethicone) crosspolymer, etc. under the INCI name, and one or more of these can be used. The component (E) may be blended alone as a partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer, or may be used as a silicone gel composition swollen with an oil agent. Such a commercially available product is, for example, KSG. -18 (mixture of partially crosslinked phenyl-modified organopolysiloxane polymer and phenyltrimethicone, solid content 10-20%), KSG-43 (mixture of partially crosslinked alkyl-modified organopolysiloxane polymer and triethylhexanoin) , Solid content 25-35%) (both manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.).

The content of the component (E) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.05 to 1.0% in terms of solid content, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.8%. Within this range, a better feeling of use without stickiness can be realized.

In the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, ingredients used in ordinary cosmetics can be blended as necessary within a quantitative and qualitative range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. For example, an aqueous component for constituting an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, an oil component other than the component (B), a surfactant other than the component (C), an oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber other than the component (A), and a water-soluble ultraviolet ray. Examples thereof include absorbents, powders, water-soluble polymers, moisturizers, antioxidants, beauty ingredients, preservatives, fragrances, and refreshing agents.

The aqueous component constitutes the outer aqueous phase of the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, and may be any component soluble in water in addition to water, for example, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. , Propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and other glycols, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin and other glycerols, aloe vera, witch hazel, hamamelis, cucumber, lemon, lavender, rose, etc. Examples include the plant extract of. The content of the aqueous phase is preferably 50 to 80% of the total cosmetics from the viewpoint of usability and stability.

The oily component constitutes the internal oil phase of the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic, and is generally used for cosmetics other than the component (B), such as the origin of animal oil, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, solid oil, etc. Regardless of the properties of semi-solid oils, liquid oils, volatile oils, etc., hydrocarbons, oils and fats, waxes, hardened oils, ester oils, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils , Lanolin derivatives, oily gelling agents and the like. Specifically, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, squalane, vaseline, polyisobutylene and polybutene, fats and oils such as mokurou, olive oil, castor oil, mink oil and macadamian nut oil, waxes such as honey wax and gay wax, and rosin. Esters such as acid pentaerythrit ester, cholesterol fatty acid ester, phytosterol fatty acid ester, fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl Higher alcohols such as alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicicane, high polymerization degree methylphenylpolysiloxane, methacryl-modified organo Silicones such as polysiloxane, stearyl-modified organopolysiloxane, oleyl-modified organopolysiloxane, behenyl-modified organopolysiloxane, high-polymerization dimethylpolysiloxane, alkoxy-modified organopolysiloxane, fluorine-modified organopolysiloxane, perfluorodecane, perfluoro Fluoro oils such as octane and perfluoropolyether, lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin acetate, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, and lanolin alcohol, oily gels such as sucrose fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, aluminum isostearate, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Agents and the like can be mentioned, and one or more of these can be used. The oil phase content is preferably 15 to 35% of the total cosmetics from the viewpoint of usability and stability.

Examples of the surfactant include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and the like other than the component (C). For example, examples of the nonionic surfactant include polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, glycerin fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, alkyl polyglucoside, and N-alkyldimethylamine oxide polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid. Examples thereof include esters, polyoxyethylene cholesteryl ethers, polyoxyethylene phytosteryl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenyl ethers and the like. The content of the surfactant is preferably 0.5 to 2% in the total cosmetics from the viewpoint of usability.

The method for producing the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited and can be produced by a generally known method, and the manufacturing equipment may be any dispersion / emulsification equipment such as a general dispersion. .. For example, an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic can be obtained by heating and dissolving the components (A) to the component (C) and the component (E), emulsifying and mixing them in the aqueous phase by dispersion, and then adding the component (D). ..

The form of the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include liquid, milky liquid, creamy, solid and the like.

The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be suitably used for milky lotions, beauty essences, packs, creams, sunscreens, foundations, makeup bases, eye shadows, etc., from the viewpoint of UV protection effect and skin aging suppression. , Sunscreen, daytime emulsion, make-up base, foundation, etc. are preferred.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. It should be noted that these do not limit the present invention in any way.
[Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6: Sunscreen cosmetics]
Sunscreen cosmetics were prepared according to the composition shown in Table 1 and the following production method. The obtained sunscreen cosmetics were evaluated by the following methods for crystal precipitation, emulsion stability, and lack of stickiness, and the results are also shown in Table 1.

(Production method)
A: Ingredients (1) to (12) are uniformly heated and dissolved.
B: Ingredients (13) and (21) to (25) are mixed.
C: The components (16) to (19) are dispersed and treated with a three-roll mill.
D: B and C are mixed and uniformly emulsified.
Ingredients (14), (15) and (20) were added to E: D and dispersed to obtain an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic.

(Evaluation method 1: Crystal precipitation)
Each of the above samples is placed in a standard glass bottle and stored in a constant temperature bath at 5 ° C for 1 month, then the sample is applied on a glass plate with a doctor blade to a film thickness of 800 μm and air-dried at 20 ° C for 15 minutes. , Each sample was observed under a microscope. The crystal precipitation state was observed with a polarizing filter at a magnification of 40 times with an optical microscope.
(A) Three-stage judgment criteria (judgment): (evaluation)
⊚: No crystal precipitation is observed.
◯: Crystal precipitation is slightly observed.
X: Crystal precipitation is clearly seen.

(Evaluation method 2: Emulsification stability)
Each of the above samples is placed in a standard glass bottle, stored in a constant temperature bath at 50 ° C. for 1 month, observed for 1 month, and compared with the appearance immediately after filling. Judgment was made using.
(B) 4-step judgment criteria (judgment): (evaluation)
◎: No change in appearance ○: Very slight drainage is seen △: Emulsification is poor and some drainage is seen ×: Drainage is seen

(Evaluation method 3: No stickiness)
We selected 10 specialized panels that were trained in sensory evaluation by women in their 20s and 40s and could be evaluated according to certain criteria. For each of the above samples, the stickiness felt when the specialized panel is applied to the skin is evaluated and graded on a 5-point scale according to the following (c) absolute evaluation criteria, and the average value is obtained from the total score of all the panels for each sample. Was calculated and determined according to the following (d) 4-step criterion.
(C) Absolute evaluation criteria (score): (evaluation)
5 points: No stickiness 4 points: Almost no stickiness 3 points: Somewhat sticky 2 points: Very sticky 1 points: Very sticky (d) 4-step judgment criteria (judgment): (Score Average score)
◎: Exceeding 4 points: Very good ○: Exceeding 3 points and 4 points or less: Good △: Exceeding 2 points and 3 points or less: Slightly defective ×: 2 points or less: Defect

(Evaluation method 4: Abrasion resistance)
The following evaluations were made on some of the above-mentioned materials, assuming rubbing with a towel or the like of sunscreen cosmetics. The samples of Example 1 and Comparative Example 6 were applied to a PMMA plate (HELIOPLATE HD6 manufactured by Labsphere) at ² mg / cm2, allowed to stand for 30 minutes, and then measured by SPF using an SPF analyzer (UV-2000S manufactured by Labsphere). Was performed, and the SPF value before rubbing was measured. Next, the surface coated with the sample was rubbed at 20 rpm for 5 seconds using a Frictionimeter FR700 (Courage + Khazaka) probe used for skin friction measurement. Then, the SPF value after rubbing was measured using the SPF analyzer. Based on the SPF values before and after rubbing obtained by the measurement, the rubbing resistance was determined according to the following (e) criterion.
(E) Judgment criteria (judgment): (evaluation)
◯: (measured value of SPF after rubbing) / (measured value of SPF before rubbing) = 0.5 or more ×: (measured value of SPF after rubbing) / (measured value of SPF before rubbing) = less than 0.5

The sunscreen cosmetics of Examples 1 to 8 were oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics having a fresh and excellent feeling of use without stickiness and also having excellent emulsification stability. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 in which the content of the component (A) exceeded 8%, crystal precipitation was clearly observed, and the emulsion stability and non-stickiness were also inferior. In Comparative Example 2 containing the non-polar oil instead of the component (B), precipitation of crystals was clearly observed, and the emulsion stability was also inferior. Further, Comparative Examples 3 and 4 containing another nonionic surfactant instead of the component (C) were inferior in emulsion stability. In Comparative Example 5 in which the content of the component (D) exceeds 10% and Comparative Example 6 in which the content of the component (E) is not contained, the non-stickiness was particularly inferior.

[Example 9: Sunscreen cream]
(Ingredient) (%)
1. 1. Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 2.5
2. 2. Bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 1.5
3. 3. Polysilicone-15 3.0
4. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 8.0
5. Di (caprylic / capric acid) propylene glycol 1.5
6. Isododecane 3.0
7. Tocopherol 0.1
8. Behenyl alcohol 0.2
9. Zinc oxide 5.0
10. Polyhydroxystearic acid 0.1
11. (Dimethicone / Phenylvinyl Dimethicone) Cross Polymer Mixture (* 1) 1.0
12. Propylene Glycol Dicaprate 1.5
13. Polyoxyethylene monooleate (20) Sorbitan 0.5
14. Polyoxyethylene (10) Hardened castor oil 0.1
15. (Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane) Crosspolymer 1.0
16. Xanthan gum 0.1
17. Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer mixture (* 3) 1.35
18. Sorbitan oleate 0.05
19. Glycerin 1.0
20. EDTA-2Na 0.05
21. Nicotinamide 5.0
22. Appropriate amount of purified water 23. Alcohol 8.0
24. Methylparaben 0.3
25. Phenoxyethanol 0.1
26. Tea extract 0.5
27. Appropriate amount of fragrance

(Manufacturing method)
A. Ingredients 1 to 8 are uniformly mixed and dissolved at a temperature of 80 ° C.
B. Ingredients 9 to 12 are uniformly mixed and dispersed with a roll mill.
C. A and B are uniformly mixed at a temperature of 70 ° C.
D. Ingredients 16 to 22 are uniformly mixed and dissolved at a temperature of 70 ° C.
E. C is added to D and emulsified.
F. Cool E to room temperature.
G. Ingredients 23-27 are uniformly mixed and dissolved at room temperature.
H. G was mixed with F to obtain a sunscreen cream.
(result)
The sunscreen cream of Example 9 was an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic having a fresh and excellent feeling of use without stickiness and also having excellent emulsification stability.

[Example 10: Sunscreen gel]
(Ingredient) (%)
1. 1. Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 2.0
2. 2. Bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 2.0
3. 3. Polysilicone-15 3.0
4. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 8.0
5. Propylene Glycol Dicaprate 3.0
6. Isotridecyl isononanoate 2.0
7. Tocopherol 0.1
8. Setostearyl alcohol 1.0
9. Glyceryl monostearate 0.1
10. (Dimethicone / Phenylvinyl Dimethicone) Cross Polymer Mixture (* 1) 2.0
11. Polyoxyethylene monooleate (20) Sorbitan 1.0
12. Polyoxyethylene (10) Hardened castor oil 0.2
13. Carbomer 0.2
14. (Acrylate / Alkyl Acrylate (C10-30)) Cross Polymer 0.1
15. Glycerin 1.0
16. Nicotinamide 3.0
17. Potassium hydroxide 0.12
18. EDTA-2Na 0.05
19. L-serine 0.1
20. Appropriate amount of purified water 21. Alcohol 8.0
22. Methylparaben 0.3
23. Phenoxyethanol 0.1
24. Silicic acid anhydride 3.0
25. Appropriate amount of fragrance

(Manufacturing method)
A. Ingredients 1 to 12 are uniformly mixed and dissolved at a temperature of 80 ° C.
B. Ingredients 13 to 20 are uniformly mixed and dissolved at a temperature of 70 ° C.
C. A is added to B and emulsified.
D. Cool C to room temperature.
E. Ingredients 21-25 are uniformly mixed and dissolved at room temperature.
F. E was mixed with D to obtain a sunscreen gel.
(result)
The sunscreen cream of Example 10 was an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic having a fresh and excellent feeling of use without stickiness and also having excellent emulsification stability.

Claims (3)

An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing the following ingredients (A) to (E).
(A) 1-8% solid UV absorber at 25 ° C
(B) Polar oil liquid at 25 ° C. (C) Polyoxyethylene cured castor oil and / or polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester 0.6 to 3%
( D) Nicotinamide 2-10%
(E) Partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (A) is hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate and / or bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content mass ratio of the component (B) to the component (A) is 2 or more.