CN109453087A - Saturating flesh water of whitening and preparation method thereof and skin-lightening cosmetic additive - Google Patents
Saturating flesh water of whitening and preparation method thereof and skin-lightening cosmetic additive Download PDFInfo
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- CN109453087A CN109453087A CN201811612864.3A CN201811612864A CN109453087A CN 109453087 A CN109453087 A CN 109453087A CN 201811612864 A CN201811612864 A CN 201811612864A CN 109453087 A CN109453087 A CN 109453087A
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- Prior art keywords
- extract
- whitening
- skin
- addition amount
- penetrating water
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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- Mycology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to saturating flesh water of a kind of whitening and preparation method thereof and skin-lightening cosmetic additive.The saturating flesh water of whitening includes kudzu root extract and dendrobium candidum extract, wherein in terms of the gross mass of the skin-lightening cosmetic additive, the additional amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.1-65%, and the additional amount of the dendrobium candidum extract is 35-99.9%.The formula of the saturating flesh water of whitening of the invention is mild, can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, to play the role of whitening.Further, skin-lightening cosmetic additive of the invention is excellent to the inhibiting effect of tyrosinase activity.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a whitening skin-penetrating lotion, a preparation method thereof and a whitening cosmetic additive, belonging to the field of cosmetics.
Background
Skin whitening is a permanent topic and pursuit of vast women who love beauty. The research and development, safety and efficacy evaluation of whitening skin care products naturally become the focus of attention of researchers, production operators and consumers. The color of the skin is mainly determined by the skin pigment content and distribution, with melanin being the most dominant determinant. Melanocytes in the skin produce melanin, melanin granules are transferred to keratinocytes through melanocyte dendrites, and the melanin granules transferred to the keratinocytes ascend to the stratum corneum along with epidermal cells, thereby affecting the color of the skin or forming color spots, and finally being excreted along with the shedding of the stratum corneum.
In addition, the irradiation of ultraviolet rays also changes melanin to generate a substance for protecting the skin, and then the melanin moves layer by layer through cell metabolism to reach the skin epidermis, so that the skin problems such as color spots, uneven skin color and the like seen by people are formed.
At present, a general skin whitening agent mainly achieves the whitening effect by reducing the production of melanin through inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase or blocking the synthesis pathway of the tyrosinase for generating the melanin. The skin whitening agent mainly comprises arbutin, hydroquinone and derivatives thereof, L-ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, kojic acid and derivatives thereof, vitamin C ethyl ether and derivatives thereof, nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, benzenediol and derivatives thereof, and the like. However, if these substances are mixed in a large amount, problems may occur in the sense of use and safety. Such as hydroquinone, is very irritating to the skin; kojic acid is easy to discolor and has certain irritation to skin; arbutin has single action and poor effect, etc.
With the increase of attention of people to skin health, the development of a natural whitening agent with safety, stability, obvious effect and high cost performance has become one of the main research directions of the current pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and has a very good development prospect.
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In view of the problems of poor effect, poor whitening effect and the like of the Chinese herbal medicine whitening and freckle removing preparation in the prior art, the invention firstly provides whitening and skin penetrating water. The whitening and skin penetrating water not only can play a whitening role, but also has no side effect on a human body.
Further, the present invention provides a whitening cosmetic additive having an excellent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity.
Furthermore, the invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and skin penetrating water, which is simple to operate and easily available in raw materials.
Means for solving the problems
The invention provides whitening skin penetrating water which comprises a whitening cosmetic additive, wherein the whitening cosmetic additive comprises a kudzu root extract and a dendrobium officinale extract, wherein the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.1-65% and the addition amount of the dendrobium officinale extract is 35-99.9% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
The whitening and skin penetrating water provided by the invention is characterized in that in the whitening cosmetic additive, the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the dendrobium officinale extract is 1: 0.6-99, preferably 1: 0.8 to 90, more preferably 1:1 to 80, and more preferably 1: 1.5 to 70, preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 4 to 50.
The whitening skin penetrating water provided by the invention is characterized in that the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-8% of the total mass of the whitening skin penetrating water.
The skin whitening and skin penetrating water further comprises one or more of a humectant, a thickening agent, a solubilizer, a skin conditioner, a soothing agent, an antioxidant, a chelating agent, a preservative and an aromatic; wherein,
the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% by the total mass of the whitening and skin penetrating water; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-0.8%; the addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0-2%; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5%; the addition amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%.
The whitening and skin penetrating water comprises one or more of propylene glycol, butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, panthenol, dipropylene glycol, betaine, glyceryl polyether-26, glycerin polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate and trehalose, and/or
The thickening agent comprises one or more than two of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer.
The whitening and skin penetrating water comprises one or more of polysorbate-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PPG-26-butanol polyether-26; and/or
The skin conditioner comprises one or more of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, Macrocystis extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, green algae extract, Rhodophyta algae extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, brown algae extract, allantoin, folium Visci Ginkgo extract, lalang grass rhizome extract, magnesium aspartate, and radix et caulis Opuntiae Dillenii extract.
The skin whitening and skin penetrating water comprises hamamelis virginiana flower water, bisabolol, a ginger root extract, an aloe vera extract, a centella asiatica extract, a purslane extract, evening primrose oil and a andrographis paniculata leaf extract, or a combination of two or more of the hamamelis virginiana flower water, the bisabolol, the ginger root extract, the aloe barbadensis extract, the centella asiatica extract, the purslane extract, the evening primrose oil and the andrograph.
The invention also provides a whitening cosmetic additive which comprises a kudzu root extract and a dendrobium officinale extract, wherein the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.1-65% and the addition amount of the dendrobium officinale extract is 35-99.9% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
The whitening cosmetic additive provided by the invention is characterized in that the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the dendrobium officinale extract is 1: 0.6-99, preferably 1: 0.8 to 90, more preferably 1:1 to 80, and more preferably 1: 1.5 to 70, preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 4 to 50.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and skin penetrating water, which comprises the following steps: mixing the components of the whitening and skin penetrating water.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The whitening skin penetrating water disclosed by the invention is mild in formula, and can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, so that the whitening effect is achieved.
Further, the additive for whitening cosmetics of the present invention has an excellent inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity.
Furthermore, the preparation method of the whitening and skin penetrating water is simple to operate, easily available in raw materials and capable of being produced in batches.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the relationship between logarithmic mass concentration and tyrosinase inhibition rate of the extract of Pueraria lobata of comparative examples 1 to 5 of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the log mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition ratio of the Dendrobium officinale extract of comparative examples 6-9 of the present invention;
fig. 3 is a graph showing the log mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition ratio of the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 7 of the present invention.
Fig. 4 is a graph showing the relationship between the content of pueraria lobata extract and the interaction coefficient in the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 7 according to the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a graph showing a comparison of the melanin change rates of application examples 1 to 7 and application comparative examples 1 to 3 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention will be described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used exclusively herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.
Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, methods, means, devices and steps which are well known to those skilled in the art have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the invention.
First embodiment
The first embodiment of the invention provides a whitening cosmetic additive, which comprises a kudzu root extract and a dendrobium officinale extract. The whitening cosmetic additive has the effect of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase.
Radix Puerariae is dried root of Pueraria lobata (wild Ohwi) or Pueraria thomsonii Benth (Pueraria lobata, also known as radix Puerariae in Leguminosae). China has 11 kinds of Pueraria plants in total, and the Pueraria starch is mainly cultivated artificially, and the rest is mainly wild. The Chinese pharmacopoeia (1990 edition) contains two Pueraria plants, i.e., Pueraria and Pueraria.
The kudzu root mainly comprises the following components: starch, cellulose, protein and total flavonoids, and further contains small amount of fat, pectin, tannin, alkaloid, etc. The starch of kudzu root contains 11 amino acids and 11 mineral elements, wherein the microelements necessary for human body include Fe, Cu, Zn, Mn, Si, etc. The pueraria flavonid contains isoflavone component, which is the main active component of pueraria.
The kudzu root extract is generally used as an anti-aging cosmetic component, can smooth the face, has the efficacy of removing acne and wrinkles, and has the mechanism related to that kudzu root isoflavones have the functions of resisting oxidation and enhancing the immunity of the organism. The radix Puerariae isoflavone has effects of scavenging oxygen free radicals and resisting lipid peroxidation, and can significantly inhibit erythrocyte hemolysis caused by oxidative damage, and inhibit active oxygen (-OH, O) to microsome2-The product can improve the activity strength of SOD in vivo and regulate the balance of oxygen free radicals and free radical scavenger in vivo, so that radix Puerariae has good anti-aging effect.
Dendrobium officinale (Dendrobium officinale) is a perennial epiphytic herb of the genus Dendrobium of the family Orchidaceae. The stem of Dendrobium officinale mainly contains water-soluble polysaccharide, which is a kind of immunopotentiator. The dendrobium officinale extract is originally prepared from the stem of dendrobium officinale.
Generally, the dendrobium officinale can not only moisten the skin, enhance the skin elasticity, reduce skin wrinkles and prevent skin aging; it also has effects in relieving fatigue, relieving mental stress, supplementing physical strength, strengthening brain, strengthening body constitution, promoting metabolism, enhancing function, moistening lung, clearing away intestinal heat, and tonifying lung deficiency.
The composition of the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract has a synergistic effect, and can play a role in inhibiting tyrosinase activity. In the invention, the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.1-65% and the addition amount of the dendrobium officinale extract is 35-99.9% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
In the invention, the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the dendrobium officinale extract is 1: 0.6-99, preferably 1: 0.8 to 90, more preferably 1:1 to 80, and more preferably 1: 1.5 to 70, preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 4 to 50. When the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the dendrobium officinale extract is within the range, the synergistic effect can be further achieved, and the effect of inhibiting the tyrosinase activity is excellent.
Second embodiment
A second embodiment of the present invention provides a whitening skin penetrating water comprising the whitening cosmetic additive of the first embodiment of the present invention. The whitening skin penetrating water of the invention is added in an amount of 0.01-8%, for example, 0.1-6%, for example, 1-5%, for example, 2-4% and the like, based on the total mass of the whitening skin penetrating water. The whitening skin penetrating water disclosed by the invention can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase by adding the whitening cosmetic additive disclosed by the invention, so that an excellent whitening effect is achieved.
Besides the whitening cosmetic additive, the whitening skin penetrating water also comprises one or more of a humectant, a thickening agent, a solubilizer, a skin conditioner, a soothing agent, an antioxidant, a chelating agent, a preservative and an aromatic. The formula of the whitening skin penetrating water is mild, so that the effect of the whitening cosmetic additive can be fully exerted. Specifically, the method comprises the following steps:
wherein the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% by the total mass of the whitening and skin penetrating water, and the humectant can play a role in moisturizing. In order to further exert the efficacy of the moisturizer, the amount of the moisturizer of the present invention added may be preferably 1 to 19%, 3 to 18%, 5 to 16%, 7 to 15%, 8 to 14%, or the like. When the content of the humectant is less than 0.01%, the moisturizing effect is not obvious; when the content of the humectant is more than 20%, the whitening and skin penetrating water has a sticky feeling.
In the invention, the humectant comprises one or a combination of more than two of propylene glycol, butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, panthenol, dipropylene glycol, betaine, glycerol polyether-26, glycerol polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate and trehalose.
The addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-0.8% of the total mass of the whitening and skin penetrating water. When the addition amount of the thickener is less than 0.02%, the whitening and skin penetrating water has thin texture; when the addition amount of the thickener is more than 0.8%, the whitening and skin penetrating water is too thick, and the active ingredients are not easily absorbed by the skin.
In the whitening and skin penetrating water, the thickening agent comprises one or more than two of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer.
The addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5% based on the total mass of the whitening and skin penetrating water. The raw materials of the whitening and skin penetrating water can be dissolved more easily by adding the solubilizer. The addition amount of the solubilizer can be 0.02-0.2%, 0.04-0.2% and the like. In the present invention, the solubilizer includes one or more of polysorbate-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and PPG-26-buteth-26.
In order to further improve the efficacy of the whitening skin penetrating water, the whitening skin penetrating water also comprises the skin conditioning agent. By adding the skin conditioning agent, the skin is further supplemented with water, and the generation of wrinkles can be reduced. The effective components in the skin conditioner can penetrate into the deep part of skin and be absorbed by skin, thereby improving the state of skin.
The addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the whitening skin penetrating water. Specifically, the skin conditioner may be added in an amount of 0.05 to 4%, may be 0.08 to 3%, may be 0.1 to 2%, or the like. When the amount of the skin conditioner added is less than 0.01%, the corresponding effect cannot be achieved.
The skin conditioner comprises one or the combination of more than two of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, giant kelp extract, fucus extract, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, green algae extract, rhodophyta extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, brown algae extract, allantoin, ginkgo mistletoe leaf extract, cogongrass rhizome extract, magnesium aspartate and cactus extract.
Among them, allantoin can reduce the adhesion of stratum corneum cells, accelerate epidermal cell renewal, enhance skin repair ability, and has high safety.
The giant kelp is bred in large amount, and the giant kelp extract is the active component extracted from giant kelp and has high content of natural plant protein. The giant kelp extract has the effects of supplementing cell nutrition and effectively preserving moisture.
Among them, palmitoyl tripeptide-5 and/or acetyl hexapeptide-8 can promote skin cell growth, inhibit oxygen radicals and hydroxyl radicals, promote the synthesis of matrix proteins (collagen), especially collagen, and may also increase the production of elastin, hyaluronic acid, glycosaminoglycans, and fibronectin.
In order to further improve the efficacy of the whitening skin penetrating water, the whitening skin penetrating water also comprises the soothing agent. The soothing agent can calm the skin, thereby having a certain relieving effect on the red swelling of the facial skin.
The addition amount of the soothing agent is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the whitening and skin penetrating lotion. Specifically, the amount of the sensitizer added may be 0.1 to 4%, may be 0.15 to 3%, may be 0.2 to 2%, or the like. When the addition amount of the soothing agent is less than 0.01%, the corresponding effect cannot be achieved.
The soothing agent comprises one or more of Hamamelis virginiana flower water, bisabolol, ginger root extract, aloe vera extract, centella asiatica extract, purslane extract, evening primrose oil and folium Andrographis extract.
The hamamelis water has excellent effects of resisting inflammation, preventing allergy, relieving and astringing, and has good water holding capacity. The ginger root extract can enhance skin activity, activate skin, has antioxidant and antiaging effects, and can reduce skin allergy, promote immune defense, activate immunocompetent cells, regulate inflammation, reduce skin sensitivity, protect skin and assist self-repair.
The whitening and skin penetrating water can be properly added with an antioxidant and a chelating agent. Generally, the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0-2% of the total mass of the whitening and skin penetrating water; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%. The antioxidant can be one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene, and ascorbic acid ethyl ether. The chelating agent may be disodium EDTA and/or tetrasodium EDTA and the like.
In addition, the whitening and skin penetrating water also contains a preservative and an aromatic. The addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5% of the total mass of the whitening and skin penetrating water; the addition amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%. The preservative can comprise one or the combination of more than two of phenoxyethanol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzoic acid and salts thereof. The aromatic may be a perfume, etc.
The whitening and skin penetrating water disclosed by the invention can play a whitening role, and the active ingredients of the whitening and skin penetrating water are easily absorbed by the skin. Various components in the formula can provide abundant nutrition for the skin, so that the skin is tender and smooth.
Third embodiment
A third embodiment of the present invention provides a method for preparing the skin whitening and skin penetrating water of the second embodiment, which includes a step of mixing the components of the skin whitening and skin penetrating water.
Specifically, the preparation method of the whitening and skin penetrating water comprises the following steps:
1. adding water, humectant, thickener, optional chelating agent, part of skin conditioner, and part of antiseptic into a stirring pot, stirring, and heating to 75-85 deg.C;
2. cooling to 40-50 deg.C, adding solubilizer, aromatic, optionally antioxidant, whitening cosmetic additive, soothing agent, residual skin conditioner, and residual antiseptic, and stirring;
3. cooling to 30-40 deg.C, discharging after qualified inspection, and standing for 12-48 hr;
4. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
Comparative examples 1 to 5
Taking radix Puerariae extract as whitening cosmetic additive. The puerariae radix extract was dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffers with different volumes and pH 6.8 to obtain 5 sets of test solutions with different concentrations. Wherein, the logarithmic mass concentration of the kudzu root extract is shown in the following table 2.
Comparative examples 6 to 9
Taking the dendrobium officinale extract as a whitening cosmetic additive. Dissolving the dendrobium officinale extract in 4 groups of phosphate buffer solutions with the volume corresponding to that of comparative examples 1-4 and the pH value of 6.8 to obtain 4 groups of test solutions with the concentration corresponding to that of comparative examples 1-4. Wherein, the logarithmic mass concentration of the dendrobium officinale extract is shown in the following table 2.
Examples 1 to 7
Taking radix Puerariae extract and herba Dendrobii extract as whitening cosmetic additive. Mixing the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract according to the mass ratio of 2:1 (example 1), 1:1 (example 2), 1:2 (example 3), 15:85 (example 4), 5:95 (example 5), 2:98 (example 6) and 7:68 (example 7) to obtain the whitening cosmetic additive. The whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 5 and 7 were dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 5, respectively, and the whitening cosmetic additive of example 6 was dissolved in 4 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 4, respectively. Examples 1-7 all gave test solutions of 5 (or 4) sets at concentrations corresponding to comparative examples 1-5 (or comparative examples 1-4). Wherein, in the whitening cosmetic additive, the contents (mass%) of the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract are shown in the following table 1, and the logarithmic mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive is shown in the following table 3.
TABLE 1
In vitro testing
Tyrosinase activity is measured as the tyrosinase activity that catalyzes the production of dopaquinone from L-dopa. The method specifically comprises the following steps:
taking 1 test tube, adding 0.4mL (1.0mg/mL) of substrate L-dopa solution, adding 2.4mL of phosphate buffer solution with pH of 6.8, carrying out water bath at 30 ℃ for 10min, and then adding 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase to obtain reaction solution 1.
After taking 1 tube, 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase was added, and 2.8mL of a phosphate buffer solution having a pH of 6.8 was added to the tube, thereby obtaining a reaction solution 2.
0.4mL (1.0mg/mL) of the substrate L-dopa solution was added to each of 43 test tubes, and then 2.4mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1 to 9 and examples 1 to 7 was added, and after incubation in a water bath at 30 ℃ for 10 minutes, the amount of tyrosinase was then added in an amount of 0.2mL (250U/mL), to obtain a reaction solution 3.
After 2.4mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1 to 9 and examples 1 to 7 were added to 43 tubes, respectively, and 0.4mL of phosphate buffer solution having a pH of 6.8 was added, and the mixture was incubated in a 30 ℃ water bath for 10 minutes, an amount of tyrosinase of 0.2mL (250U/mL) was added to obtain a reaction solution 4.
The enzymatic reaction converts L-dopa to the red product dopaquinone, with maximum absorption at 475 nm. Read the absorbance A at 475nm 1min from the start of the mixing475The rate of the enzymatic reaction is defined as A per minute475Is indicated by an increased value of (a). The absorbance A at 475nm of the reaction solution 1min after the start of the reaction was measured, and the inhibition ratio of tyrosinase activity was calculated according to the following formula. Wherein, the mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive in the table is the final mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive in the test system.
Inhibition rate ═ 1- (A)3-A4)/(A1-A2)]×100％
In the formula: a. the1Absorbance when only the substrate is contained without adding a whitening cosmetic additive;
A2the absorbance when no whitening cosmetic additive is added and no substrate is added;
A3is the absorbance when the whitening cosmetic additive and the substrate are contained;
A4is the absorbance when the cosmetic additive contains whitening cosmetic additive and no substrate is added.
Respectively calculating the inhibition rate of the pueraria extract (comparative examples 1-5) and the dendrobium officinale extract (comparative examples 6-9) on the tyrosinase activity. And calculating the corresponding mass concentration (IC) when the inhibition rate of radix Puerariae extract is 50% by combining with the relation graph of logarithmic mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition rate50A) Mass concentration (IC) corresponding to 50% inhibition rate of Dendrobium officinale extract50B) The results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
Then, tyrosinase inhibition rates of the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 7 were measured. And calculating the mass concentration (IC) of the radix Puerariae extract when the compound action of the radix Puerariae extract and the herba Dendrobii extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%) by combining the logarithmic mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition rate relation diagram50a) When the compound action of the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%), the mass concentration of the dendrobium officinale extract ((IC)50b) The results are shown in Table 3.
The effect of the composite effect of the pueraria extract and the dendrobium officinale extract can be evaluated by using an interaction coefficient gamma, and the specific result is shown in table 3.
γ＝IC50a/IC50A+IC50b/IC50B
Wherein, IC50ARepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of 50% of the kudzu root extract;
IC50Brepresenting the corresponding mass concentration when the inhibition rate of the dendrobium officinale extract is 50%;
IC50athe mass concentration of the kudzu root extract is shown when the equivalent inhibition rate (50%) is generated by the compound action of the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract;
IC50bthe mass concentration of the dendrobium officinale extract is shown when the equivalent inhibition rate (50%) is generated by the composite action of the pueraria extract and the dendrobium officinale extract.
Wherein, gamma is 1, which indicates that the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract show simple addition effect; gamma is less than 1, the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract show a synergistic effect, and the smaller the gamma value is, the stronger the synergistic effect is; gamma is more than 1, the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract show antagonistic effect, and the larger the gamma value is, the larger the antagonistic effect is.
TABLE 3
As can be seen from table 3, the interaction coefficient of the whitening cosmetic additive of the present invention is less than 1, and the interaction coefficient value thereof may be below 0.6, and even below 0.5, so the pueraria extract and the dendrobium officinale extract may exhibit excellent synergistic effect.
Application examples 1 to 7
The skin whitening and skin penetrating water is prepared according to the content (mass percentage) of each component in the skin whitening and skin penetrating water formulas of application examples 1 to 7 in the following tables 4 to 5 according to the following production process steps. The production process comprises the following steps:
1. adding A, B phase raw materials into a stirring pot, stirring and heating to 82-85 ℃;
2. cooling to 42 ℃, adding C, D phase and stirring evenly;
3. cooling to 37 ℃, discharging after the inspection is qualified, and standing for 24 hours;
4. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Note: the A, B, C, D phases in the process are respectively,
phase A: water;
phase B: butanediol, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, glycerol, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, allantoin, betaine, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, sodium hyaluronate, propylene glycol, and methylparaben;
and C phase: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, essence;
phase D: ginger root extract, kudzu root extract, dendrobium officinale extract, kelp extract, hamamelis virginiana flower water, palmitoyl tripeptide-5 and phenoxyethanol.
Wherein butanediol, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, glycerol, betaine, sodium hyaluronate and propylene glycol are moisturizers;
hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer are thickening agents;
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is a solubilizer;
the kudzu root extract and the dendrobium officinale extract are whitening cosmetic additives;
the macroalgae extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, and allantoin are skin conditioners;
ginger root extract and Hamamelis virginiana flower water are used as allergy-relieving agent;
methyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol are antiseptic; the essence is an aromatic.
In the invention, the kudzu root extract is prepared by the following steps: quzhou City exhibition-macro biotechnology Co., Ltd;
dendrobium officinale extract, and the manufacturer: quzhou City exhibition-macro Biotechnology Ltd.
TABLE 4
Application of comparative examples 1 to 3
The muscle penetrating water was prepared according to the contents (mass percentages) of the components in the muscle penetrating water formulations of comparative application examples 1 to 3 in the following table 5, and in the same manner as in application examples 1 to 7.
TABLE 5
Whitening efficacy test
Method for testing skin melanin change rate: the content of melanin in the skin is determined by measuring the reflection of light of a specific wavelength on the skin of a human body. The emitter of the probe emits light with three wavelengths of 568nm, 660nm and 880nm to the skin surface, the receiver measures the light reflected by the skin and measures the amount of light absorbed by the skin, so as to obtain the change rate of skin melanin.
The test of the skin melanin change rate is carried out by using a pigment detector of CK company in Germany, wherein a test probe MX 18 of the skin melanin consists of a light source emitter and a light source receiver, and a spring is additionally arranged to keep the pressure on the skin constant during the detection. The measuring range of the probe is 0-999, and the higher the measuring value is, the higher the content of melanin in the skin can be indicated.
The number of the subjects is 33, the test period is 4 weeks, the whitening and skin penetrating water of the application examples 1-7 and the skin penetrating water of the comparative examples 1-3 are selected in the test, the whitening and skin penetrating water is smeared on different areas of the inner side of the forearm every morning and evening, the reflection quantity of the skin of the tested area before the test (Day1) and after the skin is used for 28 days (Day28) after the light with specific wavelength is respectively measured to determine the content of the melanin in the skin, and then the change rate of the melanin is characterized, and the result of the change rate of the specific melanin is shown in figure 5.
As can be seen from fig. 5, the application examples 1 to 7 of the present application have a large change rate of melanin, i.e., the melanin content is reduced, and thus, the skin can be effectively whitened by using the pueraria extract and the dendrobium officinale extract as whitening cosmetic additives.
In addition, in application examples 6 to 7 of the present application, since the content of the pueraria lobata extract was high, the melanin content was less decreased.
In application comparative examples 1-3 of the application, when the radix puerariae extract or the dendrobium officinale extract is singly used and the radix puerariae extract is used as the whitening cosmetic additive when the content is too high, the change rate of the melanin content is small, the melanin content is reduced a little, and the whitening effect is poor.
The above examples of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the claims of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. The whitening skin penetrating water is characterized by comprising a whitening cosmetic additive, wherein the whitening cosmetic additive comprises a kudzu root extract and a dendrobium officinale extract, wherein the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.1-65% and the addition amount of the dendrobium officinale extract is 35-99.9% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
2. The whitening skin penetrating water according to claim 1, wherein in the whitening cosmetic additive, the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the dendrobium officinale extract is 1: 0.6-99, preferably 1: 0.8 to 90, more preferably 1:1 to 80, and more preferably 1: 1.5 to 70, preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 4 to 50.
3. The skin whitening and skin penetrating water as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the skin whitening cosmetic additive is added in an amount of 0.01-8% by mass of the total skin whitening and skin penetrating water.
4. The skin whitening and skin penetrating water according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising one or a combination of two or more of a humectant, a thickener, a solubilizer, a skin conditioner, a soothing agent, an antioxidant, a chelating agent, a preservative and a fragrance; wherein,
the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% by the total mass of the whitening and skin penetrating water; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-0.8%; the addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0-2%; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5%; the addition amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%.
5. The whitening skin penetrating water according to claim 4, wherein the humectant comprises one or more of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, panthenol, dipropylene glycol, betaine, glyceryl polyether-26, glycerin polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, and/or a combination of two or more of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, panthenol, and/or
The thickening agent comprises one or more than two of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer.
6. The whitening skin penetrating water according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the solubilizer comprises one or more of polysorbate-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PPG-26-buthaneth-26; and/or
The skin conditioner comprises one or more of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, Macrocystis extract, Fucus vesiculosus extract, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, green algae extract, Rhodophyta algae extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, brown algae extract, allantoin, folium Visci Ginkgo extract, lalang grass rhizome extract, magnesium aspartate, and radix et caulis Opuntiae Dillenii extract.
7. The whitening skin penetrating water according to any one of claims 4 to 6, wherein the soothing agents comprise one or a combination of two or more of Hamamelis virginiana water, bisabolol, ginger root extract, aloe barbadensis extract, centella asiatica extract, purslane extract, evening primrose oil, and Andrographis paniculata leaf extract.
8. The whitening cosmetic additive is characterized by comprising a kudzu root extract and a dendrobium officinale extract, wherein the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.1-65% and the addition amount of the dendrobium officinale extract is 35-99.9% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
9. The whitening cosmetic additive of claim 8, wherein the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the dendrobium officinale extract is 1: 0.6-99, preferably 1: 0.8 to 90, more preferably 1:1 to 80, and more preferably 1: 1.5 to 70, preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 4 to 50.
10. A method for preparing the skin whitening and skin penetrating water as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, which comprises the following steps: mixing the components of the whitening and skin penetrating water.
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| CN116459166A (en) * | 2023-04-07 | 2023-07-21 | 上海科黛生物科技有限公司 | Skin whitening product for sensitive muscles and preparation method thereof |
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