CN108578262B - Preparation method of moisturizing lipstick containing alkannin liposome - Google Patents
Preparation method of moisturizing lipstick containing alkannin liposome Download PDFInfo
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- CN108578262B CN108578262B CN201810293786.9A CN201810293786A CN108578262B CN 108578262 B CN108578262 B CN 108578262B CN 201810293786 A CN201810293786 A CN 201810293786A CN 108578262 B CN108578262 B CN 108578262B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
- A61K8/355—Quinones
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
Abstract
A preparation method of a moisturizing lipstick containing alkannin liposome comprises the following steps of, by weight, 9-11% of alkannin liposome, 48-52% of a component A, 25-28% of an oily component B, 6-9% of water, 0.5-1% of polysaccharide and 4-6% of an emulsifier, and comprises the following steps: (1) preparing alkannin liposome; (2) preparing a component A: the component A is selected from waxy component and/or oily component A; (3) heating and mixing the component A and the alkannin liposome according to a proportion to obtain a mixture A; (4) preparing an oily component B; (5) preparing a water-based humectant: the aqueous humectant is a mixture of water and polysaccharide; (6) preparing an emulsifier; (7) slowly stirring and mixing the oily component B and the water-based humectant, adding an emulsifier, uniformly stirring to obtain a stable emulsion, and keeping the temperature at 75-85 ℃ to obtain a mixture B; (8) mixing the mixture A and the mixture B, and uniformly stirring; (9) and (4) performing injection molding on the mixture obtained in the step (8) at 75-85 ℃, cooling to room temperature, and demolding to obtain the product.
Description
(I) technical field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a manufacturing method of a moisturizing lipstick.
(II) technical background
Lipstick is a lip cosmetic widely used by women in daily life, can make lips ruddy and glossy, achieves the effects of moistening, protecting the lips, increasing the aesthetic feeling of the face and correcting the contour of the lips, and is one of necessary beauty cosmetics for women.
The colorant in lipstick is a substance that imparts a bright lip color to lips, and conventional lipstick generally uses an artificially synthesized pigment as a colorant added to lipstick. However, these synthetic pigments have toxicity, which is caused by arsenic, lead, copper, phenol, aniline, ether, chloride and sulfate in the synthetic pigments, and they all cause various damages to human body, and some pigments are ingested for a long time at low dosage, and have the possibility of teratogenicity and carcinogenesis, and may cause some damages to the body of consumers who use the lipstick for a long time.
The natural pigment is edible pigment obtained from natural resources, and is extracted from animal and plant tissues and microorganisms, wherein the plant colorant accounts for the majority. The natural pigment has coloring effect, and a part of the natural pigment has physiological activity. However, the natural pigment has high extraction cost and unstable color, and is easily affected by various factors (such as illumination, temperature, oxidation, pH value, medium polarity, metal ions, additives and the like) in the using process to change in the aspects of color fading, color change and the like, so that the coloring effect is affected, and the process of replacing the artificial synthetic pigment by the natural pigment is severely restricted, so that the natural pigment is rarely applied to cosmetics at present.
In addition, the commercially available lipstick is generally pure oily and does not contain a moisturizing component, so that the lip is easily cracked after long-term use. Many ingredients capable of imparting a moisturizing effect to the skin are water-soluble substances, and it is difficult to add them to a lipstick containing a pure oily component. In order to compensate for the drawback of lipstick, water and water-soluble moisturizing ingredients may be added to the lipstick, so that the obtained product has good moisturizing effect and protects lips from damage.
Disclosure of the invention
The invention aims to provide a preparation method of a moisturizing lipstick containing alkannin liposome.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the preparation method of the moisturizing lipstick containing the alkannin liposome comprises the following steps of:
the manufacturing method comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing alkannin liposome: weighing lecithin and cholesterol according to the mass ratio of 5-6:1, adding a proper amount of petroleum ether into a reaction vessel, enabling the adding volume of the petroleum ether to be 0.2-0.4 mL/mg calculated by the mass of the lecithin, stirring and dissolving, then adding shikonin, enabling the mass ratio of the lecithin to the shikonin to be 3-7:1, carrying out reduced pressure rotary evaporation at 40-50 ℃ to recover the organic solvent, forming a uniform mauve lipid membrane in the reaction vessel, then adding 0.9% NaCl solution or PBS buffer solution with pH value of 7.4, enabling the volume ratio of the petroleum ether to 0.9% NaCl solution or PBS buffer solution with pH value of 7.4 to be 5-6:2-3, stirring and eluting the lipid membrane for 1-2h, carrying out water bath ultrasound at 25-28 ℃ for 5-10min, filtering with a 0.45 mu m microporous filter membrane, standing for 5-10min, repeatedly carrying out ultrasound and filter membrane filtration according to the same conditions, spray drying the obtained product at inlet temperature of 110-130 ℃ by using a spray dryer to obtain alkannin liposome;
(2) preparing a component A, wherein the component A is selected from a waxy component and/or an oily component A, the waxy component is selected from one or a combination of any of beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax and candelilla wax, and the oily component A is selected from one or a combination of any of jojoba oil, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, squalane, oleyl erucate, isostearyl behenate, long chain ester of white chinlon, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate and castor oil diester succinate;
(3) heating and mixing the component A and the alkannin liposome according to a proportion, and keeping the temperature at 70-80 ℃ to obtain a mixture A;
(4) preparing an oily component B: the oily component B is one or the combination of any more of decyl oleate, caprylic glyceride, glycerol trioleate, lauryl alcohol, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate;
(5) preparing a water-based humectant: the water-based humectant is a mixture of water and polysaccharide, wherein the polysaccharide is at least two selected from hyaluronic acid, yam polysaccharide, schizophyllan, glycyrrhiza polysaccharide, spirulina polysaccharide and carboxymethyl chitosan;
(6) preparing an emulsifier: the emulsifier is selected from at least two of polyglycerol-3 oleate, sorbitan oleate and diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dioleate;
(7) slowly stirring and mixing the oily component B and the water-based humectant, adding the emulsifier, uniformly stirring to obtain a stable emulsion, and keeping the temperature at 75-85 ℃ to obtain a mixture B;
(8) mixing the mixture A and the mixture B, uniformly stirring, and keeping the temperature at 75-85 ℃;
(9) and (4) performing injection molding on the mixture obtained in the step (8) at 75-85 ℃, cooling to room temperature, and demolding to obtain the product.
The waxy component, the oily component A and the oily component B in the lipstick formula disclosed by the invention are conventional components in lipstick formulas, and a person skilled in the art can select proper components according to actual needs.
Further, the component A consists of a waxy component and an oily component A, wherein the content of the waxy component and the content of the oily component A are respectively 18-20% and 29-33%.
Further, the waxy component is selected from the combination of more than three of beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax and candelilla wax.
Further, the oily component a is selected from a combination of a plurality of jojoba oil, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, squalane, oleyl erucate, isostearyl behenate, estolide, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate, castor oil succinate diester.
Still further, said oleaginous component A is a mixture of avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyl hydroxystearate, castor oil succinate diester, isostearyl behenate, and meadowfoam estolide. Still further, the mass ratio of the components in the oily component A is 1.00: 4.40: 1.05: 3.80: 3.65: 1.95: 7.00: 2.05: 4.4.
still further, said oily component A is a mixture of jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, polyhydroxystearic acid, octyldodecanol, isopropyl myristate, octyl hydroxystearate, castor oil succinate diester, isostearyl behenate and oleyl erucate. Still further, the mass ratio of the components in the oily component A is 3.05: 4.50: 0.65: 5.85: 1.55: 4.20: 3.50: 4.45: 2.95.
still further, the oleaginous component A is a mixture of jojoba oil, avocado oil, squalane, oleyl erucate, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate and castor oil diester succinate. Still further, the mass ratio of the components in the oily component A is 5.00: 2.25: 4.5: 7.25: 1.80: 4.60: 3.80: 1.00: 2.10.
furthermore, the oily component B is selected from the combination of more than four of decyl oleate, caprylic glyceride, glycerol trioleate, lauryl alcohol, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate.
Further, the polysaccharide is selected from at least four of hyaluronic acid, rhizoma Dioscoreae polysaccharide, Schizophyllan, Glycyrrhiza polysaccharide, Spirulina polysaccharide, and carboxymethyl chitosan.
The advantages and the beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:
(1) the invention uses natural pigment alkannin to replace artificial synthetic pigment, so that the product is safer. And the alkannin is prepared into liposome and added into lipstick.
In particular, alkannin is a natural pigment extracted from lithospermum erythrorhizon, can be used as a food additive, also has the functions of diminishing inflammation and resisting bacteria, and is safe and reliable. Compared with synthetic pigment, alkannin used as coloring agent has no toxicity to human body, and can protect lip. Alkannin is not stable enough under high temperature condition and is easy to be damaged in the process of making lipstick. The liposome has good affinity with skin, and after acting on skin surface, it can continuously infiltrate into skin and accumulate in stratum corneum, and a large amount of unsaturated fatty acid and hydrophilic group therein can be decomposed into stratum corneum to supplement necessary fatty acid to skin. In order to ensure that the alkannin can be stably used in the lipstick, a mode of preparing alkannin liposome is adopted to protect the pigment from being damaged. The liposome has lipid structure similar to that of skin stratum corneum, and has double-membrane structure, so that the active ingredients can be permeated into skin to reach deep layer of skin for effective absorption, and the membrane material can be retained on skin surface layer and stratum corneum for moistening. And the liposome has amphipathy, can be uniformly dispersed in the lipstick, and ensures the stable quality of the lipstick product.
(2) According to the invention, the water-soluble moisturizing component is added into the lipstick, so that the lipstick has a moisturizing function.
In particular, common lipsticks are all oily components, and the lips are cracked due to the fact that the lips cannot be moisturized in time after being smeared on the lips for a long time. The lipstick is prepared by mixing part of oil phase and water phase to prepare emulsion and mixing the emulsion with the rest of oil phase. Polysaccharide such as hyaluronic acid, rhizoma Dioscoreae polysaccharide, Schizophyllan, Glycyrrhrizae radix polysaccharide, Spirulina polysaccharide, carboxymethyl chitosan, etc. is added into the water phase as humectant.
The yam polysaccharide is a neutral heteropolysaccharide formed by taking D-galactose, D-mannose and glucose as glycosyl, xylose, arabinose and the like, is connected by β - (1,6) glycosidic bonds and β - (1,3) glycosidic bonds, has a large amount of hydroxyl groups, has strong hydrophilicity, and is combined with a large amount of water to preserve moisture.
The Schizophyllum commune polysaccharide is a polysaccharide component extracted from Schizophyllum commune, and the Schizophyllum commune polysaccharide used in the invention is a refined Schizophyllum commune polysaccharide with a relatively large molecular weight, is composed of a single component, has a chemical structure of β - (1-3) -D glucan with β - (1-6) glucose branches, and has a relatively high molecular weight of 436 kDa.
Glycyrrhiza polysaccharide is heteropolysaccharide extracted from Glycyrrhrizae radix, and is formed by connecting monosaccharide such as D-galactose, D-glucose, L-rhamnose etc. via β - (1,3) glycosidic bond and β - (1,6) glycosidic bond.
The spirulina polysaccharide is acidic heteropolysaccharide composed of L-rhamnose, D-xylose, D-glucose, D-galactose, D-arabinose, D-mannose and glucuronic acid, and mainly contains glycosidic bond bonded at 1-3 and 1-6 positions.
The chitosan is obtained by deacetylating chitin widely existing in nature, and has a chemical name of polydextrose (1-4) -2-amino-B-D glucose. In the invention, carboxymethyl chitosan is selected, which is a modified chitosan derivative, so that on one hand, the hydrogen bond action in chitosan molecules is further weakened, the crystal structure is damaged, the molecules are in a loose state to facilitate the approach of water molecules, and hydrophilic groups in the molecules form hydrogen bonds; on the other hand, due to the mutual repulsion of the stretched charged groups of the side chains, the polymer chains are more stretched and are favorable for being combined with more water molecules.
Factors influencing moisture absorption and retention are mainly the number of hydrophilic groups in the molecule and the strength of hydrophilicity. The polysaccharides have more hydrophilic groups, and when the polysaccharides are combined and used in an aqueous solution, molecular chains of different polysaccharides are mutually crosslinked into a net shape, and water molecules are combined with the hydrophilic groups in the net structure, so that the loss of moisture is prevented to a great extent, and a strong water retention effect is achieved. Therefore, the combination of several polysaccharides has better moisturizing effect than the single polysaccharide.
(3) The emulsifier used for preparing the emulsion belongs to a natural emulsifier and is used in a composite way, so that the molecules of the emulsifier are mutually crosslinked, a 'composite' is generated on an interface membrane, the membrane strength of each molecule is increased, compared with the use of a single emulsifier, the emulsion breaking is not easy, and the emulsification effect is improved.
Specifically, the emulsifiers used in cosmetics to which the emulsion is generally added are artificial emulsifiers such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan oleate, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, and polyglyceryl triisostearate, which may cause some harm to the human body. In the invention, the polyglycerol-3 oleate, the sorbitan oleate and the diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dioleate are used as emulsifier components, are natural plant-derived emulsifiers, have excellent cold and hot stability and are more relieved for users.
The structures of the polyglycerol-3 oleate and the sorbitan oleate both contain carbon-carbon double bonds, the molecules containing the carbon-carbon double bonds have smaller molecular area than saturated molecules, monomolecular films formed by the emulsifiers on two interfaces of oil and water due to directional adsorption are thinner, electron clouds at the double bonds of each molecule are densely distributed, and the repulsion effect of charges is generated, so that cavities are formed at the double bonds, and water molecules are extruded from the cavities of the oil molecules to break emulsion. And the composite emulsifier is adopted, the emulsifier molecules are generated as a composite on an interfacial film, the film strength of each molecule is increased, and the close packing is most easily realized, so that a water phase is tightly surrounded by an oil phase and the emulsion breaking is not easy to realize. Therefore, the emulsion prepared by using one emulsifier alone is easy to be instable under the change of external environment, and the stability of the emulsion can be greatly improved by using a plurality of emulsifiers in a composite way.
(IV) detailed description of the preferred embodiment
The invention will be further described with reference to specific examples, but the scope of the invention is not limited thereto:
example 1:
TABLE 1.1
The preparation method of the product comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing alkannin liposome: weighing 2g of lecithin and 0.4g of cholesterol, adding 500mL of petroleum ether into a round-bottom flask, stirring for dissolving, then adding 0.4g of alkannin, carrying out reduced pressure rotary evaporation at 40 ℃ to recover an organic solvent, forming a uniform mauve lipid membrane in the round-bottom flask, then adding 200mL of PBS buffer solution (pH is 7.4), stirring for eluting the lipid membrane for 1h, carrying out water bath ultrasound at 25 ℃ for 5min, filtering with a 0.45 mu m microporous membrane, standing for 10min, repeatedly carrying out ultrasound and membrane filtration under the same conditions, carrying out spray drying on the obtained product by using a spray dryer at an inlet temperature of 110 ℃ to obtain 1.2g of alkannin liposome;
(2) mixing beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, jojoba oil, avocado oil, squalane, oleyl erucate, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate, castor oil diester succinate to prepare component A, and maintaining the temperature of component A at 75 ℃;
(3) heating and mixing the component A and the alkannin liposome according to a proportion, and keeping the temperature at 75 ℃ to obtain a mixture A;
(4) mixing decyl oleate, triolein, lauryl alcohol and diisostearyl malate to prepare an oily component B, heating and uniformly mixing, and keeping at 75 ℃;
(5) mixing distilled water, hyaluronic acid, rhizoma Dioscoreae polysaccharide, Schizophyllum commune polysaccharide, and carboxymethyl chitosan, and making into water-based humectant;
(6) mixing polyglycerol-3 oleate and diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dioleate to prepare an emulsifier;
(7) slowly stirring and mixing the oily component B and the water-based humectant, adding the emulsifier, uniformly stirring to obtain a stable emulsion, and keeping the temperature at 75 ℃ to obtain a mixture B;
(8) mixing the mixture A and the mixture B, uniformly stirring, and keeping the temperature at 80 ℃;
(9) and (4) performing injection molding on the mixture obtained in the step (8) at 80 ℃, cooling to room temperature, and demolding to obtain the product.
The performance test method comprises the following steps:
(1) measurement of moisture retention property: each prepared water-based humectant (the water-based humectant is prepared according to the step (5) of the embodiment, and the water-based humectant is prepared by respectively taking hyaluronic acid, yam polysaccharide, schizophyllan, glycyrrhiza polysaccharide, spirulina polysaccharide and carboxymethyl chitosan which are used independently to replace the polysaccharide used in the step (5) in a composite manner as a comparative example), respectively and uniformly coating the water-based moisturizer on a 5cm × 5cm glass plate attached with a microporous ventilation adhesive tape, wherein the coating amount is 0.2000g, placing the water-based moisturizer in a drier containing a saturated ammonium sulfate solution (RH ═ 81%), weighing the water-based moisturizer after 2h, 4h, 8h and 12h respectively, calculating the moisturizing rate, carrying out three experiments in parallel, and taking the average value.
Moisture retention rate formula: rr (%) ═ Wt/W0)×100(WtFor different periods of sample mass, W0As original mass)
(2) Determination of emulsification delamination index: taking about 10g of emulsion in a 10mL centrifugal tube with a plug mill, stabilizing the emulsion in a water bath at 70 ℃ for 1h, and centrifuging the emulsion for 10min by using a 800 type low-speed centrifuge under the condition of 3500 r/min. Reading the height of the lower clear liquid in the centrifuge tube and the total height of the liquid in the centrifuge tube. And calculating the emulsification stratification index, carrying out three experiments in parallel, and taking the average value of the emulsification stratification indexes.
The emulsification stratification index calculation formula is as follows: the emulsification stratification index is the height of supernatant in the centrifuge tube/total height of liquid in the centrifuge tube multiplied by 100%
(3) Several comparative emulsions prepared to test the emulsifying effect of the single and combination emulsifiers were prepared as follows: preparing an oil phase at room temperature, uniformly stirring, adding the prepared emulsifier into the oil phase, mixing, and then adding the water phase for mixing. And (3) uniformly mixing the mixed solution by using a magnetic stirrer at 800r/min for 10min, shearing the solution by using a high-speed shearing machine at a shearing rate of 10000r/min for 10min to obtain a crude emulsion, and homogenizing by using a high-pressure homogenizer at 50MPa to obtain the stable emulsion.
Table 1.2 the moisturizing effect of the aqueous moisturizers prepared from each of the single polysaccharides and the combined polysaccharides was tested at different times and expressed as the moisturizing rate, and it can be seen from the table that the moisturizing effect of the aqueous moisturizer prepared from the combined polysaccharide of example 1 is better.
TABLE 1.2
Table 1.3 shows the formulations of several comparative emulsions prepared for testing the emulsifying effect of the single and combined emulsifiers
TABLE 1.3
Table 1.4 the stability of the emulsions prepared with the various single and combination emulsifiers at different times is tested and is expressed in terms of the creaming index, from which it can be seen that the emulsion prepared with the combination emulsifier of example 1 is more stable.
TABLE 1.4
Example 2:
TABLE 2.1
The preparation method of the product comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing alkannin liposome: weighing 1.5g of lecithin and 0.25g of cholesterol, adding 300mL of petroleum ether into a round-bottom flask, stirring for dissolving, then adding 0.5g of alkannin, carrying out reduced pressure rotary evaporation at 50 ℃ for recovering an organic solvent, forming a uniform mauve lipid membrane in the round-bottom flask, then adding 180mL of 0.9% NaCl solution, stirring for eluting the lipid membrane for 2 hours, carrying out water bath ultrasound at 26 ℃ for 10 minutes, filtering with a 0.45 mu m microporous membrane, standing for 5 minutes, repeatedly carrying out ultrasound and membrane filtration under the same conditions, carrying out spray drying on the obtained product by using a spray dryer at an inlet temperature of 130 ℃ to obtain 1g of alkannin liposome;
(2) mixing carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyl hydroxystearate, castor oil succinate diester, isostearyl behenate and poncirus caerulea L to prepare a component A, and keeping the temperature of the component A at 80 ℃;
(3) heating and mixing the component A and the alkannin liposome in proportion, and keeping the mixture at 80 ℃ to obtain a mixture A;
(4) mixing caprylin, triolein, lauryl alcohol and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate to prepare an oily component B, heating and uniformly mixing, and keeping the temperature at 80 ℃;
(5) mixing distilled water, hyaluronic acid, rhizoma Dioscoreae polysaccharide, Glycyrrhrizae radix polysaccharide, and Spirulina polysaccharide, and preparing water-based humectant;
(6) mixing polyglycerol-3 oleate, sorbitan oleate and diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dioleate to prepare an emulsifier;
(7) slowly stirring and mixing the oily component B and the water-based humectant, adding the emulsifier, uniformly stirring to obtain a stable emulsion, and keeping the temperature at 80 ℃ to obtain a mixture B;
(8) mixing the mixture A and the mixture B, uniformly stirring, and keeping the temperature at 85 ℃;
(9) and (4) performing injection molding on the mixture obtained in the step (8) at 85 ℃, cooling to room temperature, and demolding to obtain the product.
The performance test method was the same as in example 1.
Table 2.2 the moisturizing effect of each of the single polysaccharides and the combined polysaccharides was tested at different times and expressed as the moisturizing rate, and it can be seen from the table that the moisturizing effect of the combined polysaccharide of example 2 is better.
TABLE 2.2
Table 2.3 is the formulation of several comparative emulsions prepared for testing the emulsifying effect of the single and combined emulsifiers:
TABLE 2.3
Table 2.4 the stability of the emulsions prepared with the various single and combination emulsifiers at different times is tested and is expressed in terms of the creaming index, from which it can be seen that the emulsion prepared with the combination emulsifier of example 2 is more stable.
TABLE 2.4
Example 3:
TABLE 3.1
The preparation method of the product comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing alkannin liposome: weighing 2.1g of lecithin and 0.4g of cholesterol, adding 450mL of petroleum ether into a round-bottom flask, stirring for dissolving, then adding 0.3g of alkannin, carrying out reduced pressure rotary evaporation at 45 ℃ for recovering an organic solvent, forming a uniform mauve lipid membrane in the round-bottom flask, then adding 200mL of 0.9% NaCl solution, stirring for eluting the lipid membrane for 2 hours, carrying out water bath ultrasound at 28 ℃ for 8 minutes, filtering with a 0.45 mu m microporous membrane, standing for 10 minutes, repeatedly carrying out ultrasound and membrane filtration under the same conditions, carrying out spray drying on the obtained product by using a spray dryer at an inlet temperature of 120 ℃ to obtain 1.5g of alkannin liposome;
(2) mixing beeswax, microcrystalline wax, candelilla wax, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, polyhydroxystearic acid, octyldodecanol, isopropyl myristate, octyl hydroxystearate, castor oil succinate diester, isostearyl behenate, and oleyl erucate to prepare a component A, and keeping the temperature of the component A at 70 ℃;
(3) heating and mixing the component A and the alkannin liposome according to a proportion, and keeping at 70 ℃ to obtain a mixture A;
(4) mixing decyl oleate, caprylic glyceride, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate to prepare an oily component B, heating and uniformly mixing, and keeping the temperature at 70 ℃;
(5) mixing distilled water, carboxymethyl chitosan, rhizoma Dioscoreae polysaccharide, Schizophyllum commune polysaccharide, and Spirulina polysaccharide, and making into water-based humectant;
(6) mixing sorbitan oleate and diisostearoyl polyglycerol-3 dimer dioleate to prepare an emulsifier;
(7) slowly stirring and mixing the oily component B and the water-based humectant, adding the emulsifier, uniformly stirring to obtain a stable emulsion, and keeping the temperature at 70 ℃ to obtain a mixture B;
(8) mixing the mixture A and the mixture B, uniformly stirring, and keeping the temperature at 85 ℃;
(9) and (4) performing injection molding on the mixture obtained in the step (8) at 85 ℃, cooling to room temperature, and demolding to obtain the product.
Table 3.2 the moisturizing effect of each of the single polysaccharides and the combined polysaccharides was tested at different times and expressed as the moisturizing rate, and it can be seen from the table that the moisturizing effect of the combined polysaccharide of example 3 is better.
TABLE 3.2
Table 3.3 is the formulation of several comparative emulsions prepared for testing the emulsifying effect of the single and combined emulsifiers:
TABLE 3.3
Table 3.4 the stability of the emulsions prepared with the various single and combination emulsifiers at different times is tested and is expressed in terms of the creaming index, from which it can be seen that the emulsion prepared with the combination emulsifier of example 3 is more stable.
TABLE 3.4
Claims (8)
1. The preparation method of the moisturizing lipstick containing the alkannin liposome comprises the following steps of:
the manufacturing method comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing alkannin liposome: weighing lecithin and cholesterol according to the mass ratio of 5-6:1, adding a proper amount of petroleum ether into a reaction vessel, enabling the adding volume of the petroleum ether to be 0.2-0.4 mL/mg calculated by the mass of the lecithin, stirring and dissolving, then adding shikonin, enabling the mass ratio of the lecithin to the shikonin to be 3-7:1, carrying out reduced pressure rotary evaporation at 40-50 ℃ to recover the organic solvent, forming a uniform mauve lipid membrane in the reaction vessel, then adding 0.9% NaCl solution or PBS buffer solution with the pH value of 7.4, enabling the volume ratio of the petroleum ether to 0.9% NaCl solution or PBS buffer solution with the pH value of 7.4 to be 5-6:2-3, stirring and eluting the lipid membrane for 1-2h, carrying out water bath ultrasound at 25-28 ℃ for 5-10min, filtering with a 0.45 mu m microporous filter membrane, standing for 5-10min, repeatedly carrying out ultrasound and filter membrane filtration according to the same conditions, and enabling the obtained product to use a spray dryer, spray drying at inlet temperature of 110-;
(2) preparing a component A, wherein the component A is selected from a waxy component and/or an oily component A, the waxy component is selected from one or a combination of any of beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax and candelilla wax, and the oily component A is selected from one or a combination of any of jojoba oil, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, squalane, oleyl erucate, isostearyl behenate, long chain ester of white chinlon, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate and castor oil diester succinate;
(3) heating and mixing the component A and the alkannin liposome according to a proportion, and keeping the temperature at 70-80 ℃ to obtain a mixture A;
(4) preparing an oily component B: the oily component B is one or the combination of any more of decyl oleate, caprylic glyceride, glycerol trioleate, lauryl alcohol, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate;
(5) preparing a water-based humectant: the aqueous humectant is a mixture of water and a polysaccharide selected from one of the following combinations: a combination of hyaluronic acid, yam polysaccharide, schizophyllan, carboxymethyl chitosan; hyaluronic acid, rhizoma Dioscoreae polysaccharide, Glycyrrhrizae radix polysaccharide, and Spirulina polysaccharide; a combination of carboxymethyl chitosan, yam polysaccharide, schizophyllan, spirulina polysaccharide;
(6) preparing an emulsifier: the emulsifier is selected from one of the following combinations; a combination of polyglyceryl-3 oleate and diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate; a combination of polyglyceryl-3 oleate, sorbitan oleate, and diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate; a combination of sorbitan oleate and diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate;
(7) slowly stirring and mixing the oily component B and the water-based humectant, adding the emulsifier, uniformly stirring to obtain a stable emulsion, and keeping the temperature at 75-85 ℃ to obtain a mixture B;
(8) mixing the mixture A and the mixture B, uniformly stirring, and keeping the temperature at 75-85 ℃;
(9) and (4) performing injection molding on the mixture obtained in the step (8) at 75-85 ℃, cooling to room temperature, and demolding to obtain the product.
2. The method for preparing the moisturizing lipstick containing the alkannin liposome as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the component A consists of a waxy component and an oily component A, wherein the content of the waxy component and the content of the oily component A are respectively 18-20% and 29-33%.
3. The method for producing a moisturizing lipstick containing alkannin liposome according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by: the waxy component is selected from the combination of more than three of beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax and candelilla wax.
4. The method for producing a moisturizing lipstick containing alkannin liposome according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by: the oily component A is selected from jojoba oil, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, squalane, oleyl erucate, isostearyl behenate, estolide, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate and castor oil succinate.
5. The method for preparing the moisturizing lipstick containing the alkannin liposome as claimed in claim 4, wherein: the oily component A is a mixture of avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyl hydroxystearate, castor oil succinate diester, isostearyl behenate and meadowfoam longissine;
or the oily component A is a mixture of jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, polyhydroxystearic acid, octyldodecanol, isopropyl myristate, octyl hydroxystearate, castor oil succinate diester, isostearyl behenate and oleyl erucate;
or the oily component A is a mixture of jojoba oil, avocado oil, squalane, oleyl erucate, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetyl ethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, octyl hydroxystearate and castor oil diester succinate.
6. The method for preparing moisturizing lipstick containing alkannin liposome according to claim 1, 2 or 5, characterized in that: the oily component B is selected from the combination of more than four of decyl oleate, caprylic glyceride, glycerol trioleate, lauryl alcohol, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate.
7. The method for preparing the moisturizing lipstick containing the alkannin liposome as claimed in claim 3, wherein: the oily component B is selected from the combination of more than four of decyl oleate, caprylic glyceride, glycerol trioleate, lauryl alcohol, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate.
8. The method for preparing the moisturizing lipstick containing the alkannin liposome as claimed in claim 4, wherein: the oily component B is selected from the combination of more than four of decyl oleate, caprylic glyceride, glycerol trioleate, lauryl alcohol, diisostearyl malate and tridecyl alcohol trimellitate.
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| JPS60112708A (en) * | 1983-11-24 | 1985-06-19 | Maruho Kk | Humectant for skin |
| JPS6183110A (en) * | 1984-09-28 | 1986-04-26 | Seiji Konuki | Production of cosmetic |
| CN1132087A (en) * | 1995-03-30 | 1996-10-02 | 沈阳辉山天然植物色素联合开发总公司 | Extraction and starch processing technique of red pigment of Asian puccoon |
| CN105662896B (en) * | 2016-03-29 | 2018-10-12 | 上海应用技术学院 | A kind of lecithin liposome embedding calophyllum inophyllum kernel oil and its application in calming down light scar product |
| CN106377469A (en) * | 2016-12-01 | 2017-02-08 | 陕西易阳科技有限公司 | Preparation method of radix lithospermi lipstick |
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