CN107898667A - A kind of method that the skin care compositions suitable for sensitive skin is prepared based on skin lipid group - Google Patents
A kind of method that the skin care compositions suitable for sensitive skin is prepared based on skin lipid group Download PDFInfo
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- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of method that the skin care compositions for being suitable for sensitive skin is prepared based on skin lipid group, the present invention to sensitive skin crowd and healthy skin crowd by carrying out skin variations lipid analysis, then it is added to according to the difference lipid screened with the composite parts of single component or suitable ratio in skin care item, the skin care compositions suitable for alleviating skin sensitivity symptom has been made.The skin care compositions being prepared by the method for the present invention has effects that to improve skin barrier, alleviates skin sensitivity symptom, to no skin irritation, be easy to be received by consumers in general, have a good application prospect.
Description
Technical field
It is more particularly to a kind of to be suitable for based on skin lipid group preparation the present invention relates to a kind of method for preparing skin care item
The method of sensitive skin crowd's skin care item, the invention belongs to cosmetic technical field.
Background technology
The complex genesis of sensitive, individually or common can be made by the endogenous factor of body, extrinsic factor etc.
The comprehensive phenomenon caused by rear.Formed sensitive endogenous factor it is very much, including gender, the age, race, heredity, swash
Plain level etc..Main description to sensitive generation mechanism at present is that one kind involves skin barrier-neural blood vessel-immune inflammation
The complex process of disease, wherein safeguarding that skin barrier is considered as the committed step for nursing sensitive skin.And skin surface lipid
The influence of content and composition change to skin condition can be divided into three aspects：One, skin surface lipid, which changes, can directly affect screen
Hinder function；Two, skin surface lipid change can influence skin cell metabolism and influence skin condition indirectly；Three, skin surface fat
Qualitative changeization can influence skin Tiny ecosystem and influence skin condition indirectly.
Iipidomic (lipidomics) is to the lipid in organism, tissue or cell and point interacted therewith
Son carries out comprehensive and systematic analysis, identification, understands the 26S Proteasome Structure and Function of lipid, and then discloses lipid-metabolism and be with cell, organ
One subject of the relation between physiology, pathologic process to body.
Iipidomic research is similar to other " group is learned ", is the technical method using scale, by life entity, tissue
Or the lipid group of cell etc. and the molecule that interacts therewith carry out system research, disclose life entity diversity lipid and its
Metabolic regulation and biological function, and then further investigate its pass with cell, organ, the physiology of life entity, pathology etc. between process
It is
The difference with iipidomic method analysis self-report sensitive skin surface lipids is had no at present, is more had no and is based on
Skin care item made by this difference.
The content of the invention
An object of the present invention is to establish a kind of skin care group prepared based on skin lipid group suitable for sensitive skin
The method of compound.
The two of the object of the invention are to provide the skin care item obtained by this method and combine, including cream, facial mask etc..
In order to achieve the above object, present invention employs following technological means：
A kind of method that the skin care compositions suitable for sensitive skin is prepared based on skin lipid group, including following step
Suddenly：
(1) skin health volunteer 30-200 people is selected, skin sensitivity volunteer 30-200 people, is divided into health and sensitivity two
Group, two groups of volunteer's genders are identical；
(2) after cleaning face, volunteer is sat quietly under constant-temperature constant-humidity environment 10-60 minutes, distinguished with tape paste method
The lipid of each volunteer's skin surface is gathered, the sample as lipid detection；
(3) skin lipid in institute's collecting sample is separately recovered using lipids extraction method；
(4) measure the content of each lipid components in the lipid of extraction respectively using instrument, and obtain every kind of in every group of sample
The average value of lipid components content；
(5) otherness lipid between two groups is selected by statistical method, with health group skin cholesterol levels
Average value calculates relative amount ratio of the selected lipid components in healthy group as divisor；
(6) exist《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》Middle selection respectively is identical or or similar with step (5)
Lipid；
(7) lipid that step (6) obtains is mixed according to the ratio that step (5) determines, obtains lipid composition, so
Mixed afterwards with conventional skin care item base starting material, auxiliary material, the skin care compositions suitable for sensitive skin is prepared.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that the skin sensitivity volunteer described in step (1) refers to that skin is subject to thing
After the stimulation of reason factor, chemical factor and mental element, it may appear that the crowd of itch, tight, shouting pain and the symptom such as scorching hot,
Wherein, the physical factor includes hot and cold alternation, ultraviolet radioactive, wind；It is dirty that the chemical factor includes skin care item, environment
Dye；The mental element includes pressure.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that the temperature of the environment described in step (2) is 20-30 DEG C, and humidity is
30-50%.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that using Bligh-Dyer lipids extractions method recycling skin in step (3)
Lipid.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that the instrument described in step (4) is UPLC-QTOF/MS, GC-
QTOF/MS, MALDI-TOF-MS, DART-MS or DESI-MS.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that in step (5), the statistical method includes principal component analysis
(PCA), ginsenoside (PLS-DA), fold change and random forest, it is furthermore preferred that the statistics
Method is ginsenoside method (PLS-DA), sets screening conditions as p<0.05, health group organizes fat with sensitive
Matter fold differences>2, VIP>1.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that in step (6), the similar lipid refers to select with step (5)
The lipid selected belongs to the lipid monomer of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases, or (content is more than its main component
50w/w%) belong to the lipid mixture of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases with the lipid of step (5) selection, it is excellent
Choosing, for lipid monomer, also meet one of the following conditions；(a) compared with the lipid of step (5) selection, ± 0-5 carbon of difference
Atom；(b) compared with the lipid of step (5) selection, unsaturated bond number difference ± 0-5.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that in step (7), the base starting material includes oiliness raw material, silty
One of raw material and solvent raw material or two or more combinations, the auxiliary material include surfactant, antioxygen
Agent, preservative, sun-screening agent, moisturizer, essence or spices and one of pigment or pigment or two or more combinations；
Wherein, it is preferred that the oiliness raw material includes：Glycerine, coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, palm oil, mink
Oil, snake oil, tallow, lanolin and its derivative, Brazil wax, spermaceti, beeswax, atoleine, vaseline, microcrystalline wax,
Saualane, silicone oil and its derivative, aliphatic acid, fatty alcohol and carbon number are the ester of 12-18；
Wherein, it is preferred that the silty raw material includes：It is talcum powder, kaolin, zinc white, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hard
Resin acid zinc/magnesium, calcium carbonate/magnesium and calcium monohydrogen phosphate；
Wherein, it is preferred that the solvent raw material includes：Water, alcohol, isopropanol, n-butanol, acetone, butanone, diethyl
Glycol ether, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate；
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that in step (7), the weight hundred of lipid composition in skin care compositions
It is 10-20% to divide ratio.
Further, the invention also provides what is be prepared according to the method described in the present invention is suitable for sensitive skin
Skin care compositions, it is preferred that the skin care compositions is cream, lotion or facial mask.
In one particular embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a kind of skin care item suitable for female sensitive skin, are face
Frost or facial mask, the face cream or facial mask are prepared according to claim 1-8 any one of them methods；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the face cream by 18% lipid composition and 86% base starting material
Formed with the mixture of auxiliary material；Wherein, the lipid composition is by Trivent OCG, saualane, ceramide III
Composition, and Trivent OCG：Saualane：Weight ratio=194.03 of ceramide III：1.45：2.32, according to weight percent
Than meter, the mixture of the base starting material and auxiliary material is by glycerine 3%, phenmethylol 0.3%, potassium sorbate 0.3% and
96.4% Purified Water composition；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the facial mask is by 12% A phases, 85.9% B phases and 0.1% C phases
Composition, wherein, the A phases are according to Trivent OCG by Trivent OCG, saualane, ceramide III：Spiny dogfish
Alkane：Weight ratio=194.03 of ceramide III：1.45：2.32 lipid compositions mixed；The base starting material and
The mixture of auxiliary material is by B phases and C phase compositions, wherein carbomer of the B phases by 1w/w%, the propane diols of 2w/w%,
The phenmethylol of 0.4w/w%, the potassium sorbate of 0.3%w/w and the Purified Water composition of 96.3w/w%；The C phases are three second
Hydramine.
Compared to the prior art, the beneficial effects of the invention are as follows：
The present invention analyzes above two crowd's skin surface lipid using healthy population and sensitive skin crowd as research object
Component and content, filter out difference lipid by statistical method, then add the composite parts of single component or proper ratio
It is added in skin care item, the skin care item for being suitable for sensitive skin are prepared.Clinical test proves, the method according to the invention system
Standby obtained skin care item more disclosure satisfy that demand of the skin to lipid of sensitive group, have the good work for improving skin barrier
With self-report sensitive skin symptom can be alleviated, and without skin discomfort phenomenon, there is good application prospect.
Embodiment
The invention will now be further described with reference to specific embodiments, the advantages and features of the present invention will be with description and
It is apparent.But embodiment is only exemplary, does not form any restrictions to the scope of the present invention.Those skilled in the art should
It should be appreciated that the details and form of technical solution of the present invention can be repaiied without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention
Change or replace, but these modifications and replacement are each fallen within protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment 1 is suitable for the preparation of the skin care item (face cream) of female sensitive skin
1st, 50 people of female volunteers of skin health is selected, screens to obtain the women of self-report sensitive skin by questionnaire
50 people of volunteer, questionnaire content include the factor for causing sensitivity:Physical factor (hot and cold alternation, ultraviolet radioactive, wind), chemical factor
(skin care item, environmental pollution) and mental element (pressure)；Sensitivity (including itch, tight, shouting pain, scorching hot)；Full marks 100
Point, if score is more than 70 points, then it is assumed that belong to self-report sensitive skin crowd.Exclude other skin diseases, systemic disease
Disease etc.；It is divided into two groups of health and sensitivity；
2nd, after cleaning face (lipid components for removing skin secretion), volunteer is made in 25 DEG C of temperature, relative humidity 50%
Constant-temperature constant-humidity environment in sit quietly 30 minutes after, remove adhesive tape behind right side cheek position, 3min with tape-stripping and be placed in sample
In pipe, the sample as lipid detection；
3rd, using Bligh-Dyer lipids extractions method (Bligh EG, Dyer WJ.Canadian journal of
biochemistry and physiology,1959,37(8):911-917.) lipid in the sample of collection is extracted.
4th, the various lipid components in the lipid of extraction are measured respectively using UPLC-QTOF-MS, detect 3218 kinds of fat altogether
Matter, classifies lipid, and analyzes the content of various composition, and obtains being averaged for every kind of lipid components content in every group of sample
Value.
5th, statistical analysis is carried out to two groups of lipid contents, using ginsenoside method (PLS-DA methods), if
It is p to determine screening conditions<0.05, health group organizes lipid fold differences with sensitive>2, VIP>1, it is trigalloyl as a result to obtain difference lipid
Glycerine, squalene, ceramide.Using the average value of health group cholesterol level as divisor, difference lipid in healthy group is calculated
Content ratio is as follows：Triacylglycerol：Squalene：Ceramide=194.03：1.45：2.32；
6th, according to the structure of these three lipid components,《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》Middle selection raw material, choosing
Select with the same or similar lipid components of its structure, wherein, similar lipid meet with step (5) selection lipid exist
Belong to the lipid monomer of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases, or its main component (content is more than 50w/w%) with
The lipid of step (5) selection belongs to the lipid mixture of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases；Further preferably
, also meet (a) compared with the lipid that step (5) selects for lipid monomer, differ ± (0-5) a carbon atom；(b) and step
(5) lipid of selection is compared, and unsaturated bond number differs ± (0-5).
Triacylglycerol does not exist《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》In, in LIPIDMAPS databases, sad glycerine
Three esters belong to glycerolipid with triacylglycerol, therefore select Trivent OCG to replace triacylglycerol；The replacement of other raw materials
System of selection is the same：Saualane replaces squalene, and ceramide III replaces ceramide.
7th, with above-mentioned various raw materials, according to each component ratio (triacylglycerol：Squalene：Ceramide=194.03：
1.45：2.32), it is made into the lipid composition suitable for women self-report sensitive skin.
8th, based on above-mentioned lipid composition, the face cream suitable for women self-report sensitive skin, 100g productions are made
The production method of product is as follows：
Take A phases (lipid composition) 18g, B phase (glycerine 3w/w%, phenmethylol 0.3w/w%, potassium sorbate 0.3w/w%,
Purified Water is supplemented to 100w/w%) 82g, preparation method is as follows, and A phases are separately heated to 80 DEG C with B phases, are being stirred continuously situation
Under, B is added in A phases, is stirred continuously and is slowly cooled to 60 DEG C.Homogeneous is completely dispersed up to raw material, is begun to cool down to room temperature,
To obtain the final product.
Embodiment 2 is suitable for the preparation of the skin care item (facial mask) of female sensitive skin
1st, 50 people of female volunteers of skin health is selected, screens to obtain the women of self-report sensitive skin by questionnaire
50 people of volunteer, questionnaire content include the factor for causing sensitivity:Physical factor (hot and cold alternation, ultraviolet radioactive, wind), chemical factor
(skin care item, environmental pollution) and mental element (pressure)；Sensitivity (including itch, tight, shouting pain, scorching hot)；Full marks 100
Point, if score is more than 70 points, then it is assumed that belong to self-report sensitive skin crowd.Exclude other skin diseases, systemic disease
Disease etc.；It is divided into two groups of health and sensitivity；
2nd, after cleaning face (lipid components for removing skin secretion), volunteer is made in 25 DEG C of temperature, relative humidity 50%
Constant-temperature constant-humidity environment in sit quietly 30 minutes after, remove adhesive tape behind right side cheek position, 3min with tape-stripping and be placed in sample
In pipe, the sample as lipid detection；
3rd, using Bligh-Dyer lipids extractions method (Bligh EG, Dyer WJ.Canadian journal of
biochemistry and physiology,1959,37(8):911-917.) lipid in the sample of collection is extracted.
4th, the various lipid components in the lipid of extraction are measured respectively using UPLC-QTOF-MS, detect 3218 kinds of fat altogether
Matter, classifies lipid, and analyzes the content of various composition, and obtains being averaged for every kind of lipid components content in every group of sample
Value.
5th, statistical analysis is carried out to two groups of lipid contents, using ginsenoside method (PLS-DA methods), if
It is p to determine screening conditions<0.05, health group organizes lipid fold differences with sensitive>2, VIP>1, it is trigalloyl as a result to obtain difference lipid
Glycerine, squalene, ceramide.Using the average value content of health group cholesterol as divisor, difference lipid in healthy group is calculated
Content ratio is as follows：Triacylglycerol：Squalene：Ceramide=194.03：1.45：2.32；
6th, according to the structure of these three lipid components,《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》Middle selection raw material, choosing
Select with the same or similar lipid components of its structure, wherein, similar lipid meet with step (5) selection lipid exist
Belong to the lipid monomer of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases, or its main component (content is more than 50w/w%) with
The lipid of step (5) selection belongs to the lipid mixture of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases；Further preferably
, also meet (a) compared with the lipid that step (5) selects for lipid monomer, differ ± (0-5) a carbon atom；(b) and step
(5) lipid of selection is compared, and unsaturated bond number differs ± (0-5).
Triacylglycerol does not exist《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》In, in LIPIDMAPS databases, sad glycerine
Three esters belong to glycerolipid with triacylglycerol, therefore select Trivent OCG to replace triacylglycerol；The replacement of other raw materials
System of selection is the same：Saualane replaces squalene, and ceramide III replaces ceramide,.
7th, with above-mentioned various raw materials, according to each component ratio (triacylglycerol：Squalene：Ceramide=194.03：
1.45：2.32), it is made into the lipid composition suitable for women self-report sensitive skin.
8th, based on above-mentioned lipid composition, the facial mask suitable for women self-report sensitive skin, 100g productions are made
The production method of product is as follows：
A phases 12g (lipid composition), B phases 87.9g (carbomer 1w/w%, propane diols 2w/w%, phenmethylol 0.4w/w%,
Potassium sorbate 0.3%w/w, Purified Water are supplemented to 100w/w%), C phase 0.1g triethanolamines.Preparation method is as follows, and A is combined
Mixing, is heated to 70 DEG C.B phase components are mixed to uniform, are heated to 70 DEG C.In the case where medium speed stirs, B is added to A phases
In, neutralize mixture with C phases.Be stirred continuously and be cooled to room temperature, to obtain the final product.
The effect of 3 skin care item of the present invention of embodiment, tests and clinical test
Experiment one：
Select 40 people from the self-report sensitive skin crowd of embodiment 1, stage by stage using three kinds of tested skin care item into
Row experiment, each stage is for 4 weeks, after a stage, disables tested skin care item 28 days, carries out the reality in next stage
Test.
Three kinds of tested skin care item are as follows：
Tested skin care item 1：The face cream prepared according to 1 method of embodiment
Tested skin care item 2：Prepared according to 1 method of embodiment, difference lies in do not add lipid composition
Tested skin care item 3：Prepared according to 1 method of embodiment, difference lies in replace with the lipid composition in embodiment 1
Following lipid composition：
Dimethyl silicone polymer, stearic acid, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba oil, Ve acetates, cetostearyl alcohol, paraffin,
Hydrogenate that the poly- last of the ten Heavenly stems is dilute, its ratio is：1.0：0.1：1.5：3.0：3.0：5.0：3.0：0.3.
Method：
First stage：Daily morning and evening after clean skin, the face cream of tested skin care item 1 is used respectively on skin of face.Exist respectively
Using the 7th day, 14 days, 21 days, keratoderma water content is measured within 28 days, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and according to the subjectivity of volunteer
Evaluate statistical result.After first stage, tested skin care item are disabled 28 days, carry out the experiment of second stage.
Second stage：Daily morning and evening after clean skin, tested skin care item 2 are used respectively on skin of face.Using the 7th respectively
My god, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days measure keratoderma water content, counted through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and according to the subjective assessment of volunteer
As a result.After second stage, tested skin care item are disabled 28 days, carry out the experiment of three phases.
Phase III：Daily morning and evening after clean skin, tested skin care item 3 are used respectively on skin of face.Using the 7th respectively
My god, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days measure keratoderma water content, counted through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and according to the subjective assessment of volunteer
As a result.
Judgment criteria：Keratoderma water content, the measure through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage and subjective feeling sensitive skin symptom are (light
Micromodification is apt to, hence it is evident that is improved, no improvement, skin are uncomfortable).
As a result：
The use result of tested skin care item 1：1) keratoderma water content significantly rises after 2 weeks, is shown through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage
Write and decline, 39% volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition is significantly improved, 21% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity shape
State has a slight improvement, and 40% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable；2) after 4 weeks
Keratoderma water content significantly rises, and is remarkably decreased through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, 63% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity shape
State is significantly improved, and 27% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state has slight improvement, 10% volunteer's subjective feeling
Skin sensitivity state is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable.
The use result of tested skin care item 2：1) keratoderma water content after 2 weeks, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage without significant changes,
11% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state has a slight improvement, 89% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state without
Improve, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable；2) keratoderma water content after 4 weeks, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage without significant changes, 14% will
Hope person's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state has slight improvement, and 86% volunteer's subjective feeling is existing without improvement, no skin discomfort etc.
As.
The use result of tested skin care item 3：1) keratoderma water content after 2 weeks, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage without significant changes,
13% volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition is significantly improved, and 15% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state has slightly
Improve, 72% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable；2) skin keratin after 4 weeks
Layer water content has risen, has been declined slightly through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and 16% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state has significantly
Improve, 14% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity state has slight improvement, 70% volunteer's subjective feeling skin sensitivity
State is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable.
Experiment two：
Select 40 people from the self-report sensitive skin crowd of embodiment 1, stage by stage using three kinds of tested skin care item into
Row experiment, each stage is for 4 weeks, after a stage, disables tested skin care item 28 days, carries out the reality in next stage
Test.
Three kinds of tested skin care item are as follows：
Tested skin care item 4：The facial mask prepared according to 2 method of embodiment
Tested skin care item 5：Prepared according to 2 method of embodiment, difference lies in do not add lipid composition
Tidy up skin care item 6：Prepared according to 2 method of embodiment, difference lies in replace with the lipid composition in embodiment 2
Following lipid composition：
Dimethyl silicone polymer, stearic acid, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba oil, Ve acetates, cetostearyl alcohol, paraffin,
Hydrogenate that the poly- last of the ten Heavenly stems is dilute, its ratio is：1.0：0.1：1.5：3.0：3.0：5.0：3.0：0.3.
Method：
First stage：Daily morning and evening after clean skin, the facial mask of tested skin care item 4 is used respectively on skin of face.Exist respectively
Using the 7th day, 14 days, 21 days, keratoderma water content is measured within 28 days, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and according to the subjectivity of volunteer
Evaluate statistical result.After first stage, tested skin care item are disabled 28 days, carry out the experiment of second stage.
Second stage：Daily morning and evening after clean skin, tested skin care item 5 are used respectively on skin of face.Using the 7th respectively
My god, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days measure keratoderma water content, counted through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and according to the subjective assessment of volunteer
As a result.After second stage, tested skin care item are disabled 28 days, carry out the experiment of three phases.
Phase III：Daily morning and evening after clean skin, tested skin care item 6 are used respectively on skin of face.Using the 7th respectively
My god, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days measure keratoderma water content, counted through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and according to the subjective assessment of volunteer
As a result.
Judgment criteria：Keratoderma water content, the measure through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage and subjective feeling sensitive skin symptom are (light
Micromodification is apt to, hence it is evident that is improved, no improvement, skin are uncomfortable).
As a result：
The use result of tested skin care item 4：1) keratoderma water content significantly rises after 2 weeks, is shown through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage
Write and decline, 56% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state is significantly improved, 18% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitivity skin
Skin state has a slight improvement, and 26% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable；2)4
Keratoderma water content significantly rises after week, is remarkably decreased through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, 69% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitivity skin
Skin state is significantly improved, and 25% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state has slight improvement, the 6% subjective sense of volunteer
By sensitive skin state without improvement, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable.
The use result of tested skin care item 5：1) keratoderma water content after 2 weeks, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage without significant changes,
12% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state has a slight improvement, 88% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state without
Improve, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable；2) keratoderma water content after 4 weeks, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage without significant changes, 15% will
Hope person's subjective feeling sensitive skin state has slight improvement, and 85% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state is without improvement, nothing
Phenomena such as skin is uncomfortable.
The use result of tested skin care item 6：1) keratoderma water content after 2 weeks, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage without significant changes,
10% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state is significantly improved, and 21% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state has
Slight to improve, 69% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable；2) skin after 4 weeks
Cuticlar water content has risen, has been declined slightly through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and 19% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state has
Significantly improve, 16% volunteer's subjective feeling sensitive skin state has slight improvement, and 65% volunteer's subjective feeling is sensitive
Skin condition is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin is uncomfortable.
Claims (10)
- A kind of 1. method that the skin care compositions suitable for sensitive skin is prepared based on skin lipid group, it is characterised in that bag Include following steps：(1) skin health volunteer 30-200 people is selected, skin sensitivity volunteer 30-200 people, is divided into two groups of health and sensitivity, Two groups of volunteer's genders are identical；(2) after cleaning face, volunteer is sat quietly under constant-temperature constant-humidity environment 10-60 minutes, gathered respectively with tape paste method The lipid of each volunteer's skin surface, the sample as lipid detection；(3) skin lipid in institute's collecting sample is separately recovered using lipids extraction method；(4) measure the content of each lipid components in the lipid of extraction respectively using instrument, and obtain every kind of lipid in every group of sample The average value of component content；(5) otherness lipid between two groups is selected by statistical method, with being averaged for health group skin cholesterol levels Value is used as divisor, calculates relative amount ratio of the selected lipid components in healthy group；(6) exist《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》It is middle to select or or similar lipid identical with step (5) respectively；(7) lipid that step (6) obtains is mixed according to the ratio that step (5) determines, obtains lipid composition, Ran Houyu Skin care item base starting material, the auxiliary material of routine mix, and the skin care compositions suitable for sensitive skin is prepared.
- 2. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that the skin sensitivity volunteer described in step (1) refer to skin by To physical factor, after the stimulation of chemical factor and mental element, it may appear that the people of itch, tight, shouting pain and the symptom such as scorching hot Group, wherein, the physical factor includes hot and cold alternation, ultraviolet radioactive, wind；The chemical factor includes skin care item, environment Pollution；The mental element includes pressure.
- 3. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that the temperature of the environment described in step (2) is 20-30 DEG C, wet Spend for 30-50%.
- 4. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that using the recycling of Bligh-Dyer lipids extractions method in step (3) Skin lipid.
- 5. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that the instrument described in step (4) is UPLC-QTOF/MS, GC- QTOF/MS, MALDI-TOF-MS, DART-MS or DESI-MS.
- 6. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that in step (5), the statistical method includes principal component point Analyse (PCA), ginsenoside method (PLS-DA), fold change and random forest, it is preferred that the system It is ginsenoside method (PLS-DA) to count method, sets screening conditions as p<0.05, health is organized and sensitive group Lipid fold differences>2, VIP>1.
- 7. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that in step (6), the similar lipid refers to and step (5) lipid of selection belongs to the lipid monomer of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases, or its main component (contains Amount is more than 50w/w%) lipid that is selected with step (5) belongs to the lipids of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases and mixes Compound, it is preferred that for lipid monomer, also meet one of the following conditions：(a) compared with the lipid of step (5) selection, difference ± 0-5 carbon atom；(b) compared with the lipid of step (5) selection, unsaturated bond number difference ± 0-5.
- 8. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that in step (7), the base starting material include oiliness raw material, One of silty raw material and solvent raw material or two or more combinations, the auxiliary material include surfactant, Antioxidant, preservative, sun-screening agent, moisturizer, essence or spices and one of pigment or pigment or two or more groups Close；Wherein, it is preferred that the oiliness raw material includes：Glycerine, coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, palm oil, mink oil, snake Oil, tallow, lanolin and its derivative, Brazil wax, spermaceti, beeswax, atoleine, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, spiny dogfish Alkane, silicone oil and its derivative, aliphatic acid, fatty alcohol and carbon number are the ester of 12-18；Wherein, it is preferred that the silty raw material includes：Talcum powder, kaolin, zinc white, titanium dioxide, bentonite, stearic acid Zinc/magnesium, calcium carbonate/magnesium and calcium monohydrogen phosphate；Wherein, it is preferred that the solvent raw material includes：Water, alcohol, isopropanol, n-butanol, acetone, butanone, diethylene glycol Ether, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate；Preferably, in step (7), the percentage by weight of lipid composition is 10-20% in skin care compositions.
- 9. the skin care compositions suitable for sensitive skin being prepared according to claim 1-8 any one of them methods, excellent Choosing, the skin care compositions is cream, lotion or facial mask.
- 10. a kind of skin care item suitable for female sensitive skin, are face cream or facial mask, it is characterised in that the face cream or face Film is prepared according to claim 1-8 any one of them methods；Wherein, in percentage by weight, the face cream is by 18% lipid composition and 82% base starting material and auxiliary The mixture of raw material is helped to form；Wherein, the lipid composition is by Trivent OCG, saualane, ceramide III groups Into, and Trivent OCG：Saualane：Weight ratio=194.03 of ceramide III：1.45：2.32, according to percentage by weight Meter, the mixture of the base starting material and auxiliary material is by glycerine 3%, phenmethylol 0.3%, potassium sorbate 0.3% and 96.4% Purified Water composition；Wherein, in percentage by weight, the facial mask is by 12% A phases, 87.9% B phases and 0.1% C phase groups Into, wherein, the A phases are according to Trivent OCG by Trivent OCG, saualane, ceramide III：Saualane： Weight ratio=194.03 of ceramide III：1.45：2.32 lipid compositions mixed；The base starting material and auxiliary The mixture of raw material is helped by B phases and C phase compositions, wherein carbomer of the B phases by 1w/w%, the propane diols of 2w/w%, The phenmethylol of 0.4w/w%, the potassium sorbate of 0.3%w/w and the Purified Water composition of 96.3w/w%；The C phases are three second Hydramine.
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| CN107898667B (en) | 2020-09-15 |
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