CN107669522A - A kind of method that the bionical skin care compositions suitable for youth of both sexes is prepared based on skin lipid group - Google Patents
A kind of method that the bionical skin care compositions suitable for youth of both sexes is prepared based on skin lipid group Download PDFInfo
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- CN107669522A CN107669522A CN201711136647.7A CN201711136647A CN107669522A CN 107669522 A CN107669522 A CN 107669522A CN 201711136647 A CN201711136647 A CN 201711136647A CN 107669522 A CN107669522 A CN 107669522A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of method that the bionical skin care compositions for being applied to youth of both sexes is prepared based on skin lipid group.The present invention is using Healthy Youth men and women skin as research object, by analyzing Healthy Youth men and women's skin surface lipid composition and content, filter out the lipid that content is higher in young men and women's skin, then the composite parts of single component or proper ratio is added in skin care item, so that the bionical skin care item for the skin condition for adapting to different sexes are prepared.Clinical test proves that the skin care item being prepared according to the method for the present invention more disclosure satisfy that demand of the different sexes skin to lipid, have the function that good water lock moisturizing, and without skin discomfort phenomenon, have good application prospect.
Description
Technical field
It is more particularly to a kind of to be applied to based on skin lipid group preparation the present invention relates to a kind of method for preparing skin care item
The method of youth of both sexes skin care compositions, the invention belongs to cosmetic technical field.
Background technology
Skin physiology state and structure have differences between different sexes, as male's skin is thick thick compared with women, melanin is more,
Grease is more, pore is more and big etc., and compared with male, then more sensitivity etc., this difference can behave as the difference of skin surface lipid to female skin
It is different.The influence that the content and composition of skin surface lipid change to skin condition can be divided into three aspects：One, skin surface lipid
Change can directly affect barrier function；Two, skin surface lipid change can influence skin cell metabolism and influence skin shape indirectly
State；Three, skin surface lipid change can influence skin Tiny ecosystem and influence skin condition indirectly.
Iipidomic (lipidomics) is to the lipid in organism, tissue or cell and point interacted therewith
Son carries out comprehensive and systematic analysis, identification, understands the 26S Proteasome Structure and Function of lipid, and then discloses lipid-metabolism and be with cell, organ
One subject of the relation between physiology, pathologic process to body.
Iipidomic research is similar to other " group is learned ", is the technical method using scale, by life entity, tissue
Or the lipid group of cell etc. and the molecule that interacts therewith carry out system research, disclose life entity diversity lipid and its
Metabolic regulation and biological function, and then further investigate its pass with cell, organ, the physiology of life entity, pathology etc. between process
It is
The difference with iipidomic method analysis youth of both sexes skin surface lipid is had no at present, and it is poor based on this more to have no
Different made skin care item.
The content of the invention
An object of the present invention is to establish a kind of bionical shield prepared based on skin lipid group suitable for youth of both sexes
The method of skin composition.
The two of the object of the invention are to provide the skin care item obtained by this method, including cream, facial mask etc..
In order to achieve the above object, present invention employs following technological means：
A kind of method that the bionical skin care compositions suitable for youth of both sexes is prepared based on skin lipid group of the present invention,
Comprise the following steps：
A kind of method that the bionical skin care compositions suitable for youth of both sexes is prepared based on skin lipid group, including it is following
Step：
(1) each 30-200 people of youth of both sexes healthy volunteer is selected respectively, is divided into two groups of men and women；
(2) after cleaning face, volunteer is sat quietly under constant-temperature constant-humidity environment 10-60 minutes, distinguished with tape paste method
The lipid of each volunteer's skin surface is gathered, the sample as lipid detection；
(3) skin lipid in institute's collecting sample is separately recovered using lipids extraction method；
(4) determine the content of each lipid components in the lipid of extraction respectively using instrument, and obtain every kind of in every group of sample
The average value of lipid components content；
(5) the high 1-10 kind lipid components of content are selected from every group respectively, are contained with respective cholesterol in every group of skin
The average value of amount calculates the relative amount ratio of selected lipid components as divisor；
(6) exist《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》The middle selection 1-10 kind fat high with content in step (5) respectively
Matter constituent structure is identical or or similar lipid；
(7) ratio that the lipid that step (6) obtains determines according to step (5) is mixed, obtains lipid composition, so
The skin care item base starting material with routine, auxiliary material mix afterwards, and the bionical skincare composition suitable for youth of both sexes is prepared
Thing.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that described youth refers to crowd of the age between 16-44 year.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that the temperature of the environment described in step (2) is 20-30 DEG C, and humidity is
30-50%.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that using Bligh-Dyer lipids extractions method recovery skin in step (3)
Lipid.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that the instrument described in step (4) is UPLC-QTOF/MS, GC-
QTOF/MS, MALDI-TOF-MS, DART-MS or DESI-MS.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that in step (6), described similar lipid refers to select with step (5)
The lipid components selected belong to the lipid monomer of same Lipid Subtypes, or its main component (content in LIPIDMAPS databases
More than 50w/w%) belong to the lipids of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases with the lipid of step (5) selection and mix
Thing, it is preferred that for lipid monomer, also meet one of following condition；(a) compared with the lipid of step (5) selection, difference ± 0-
5 carbon atoms；(b) compared with the lipid of step (5) selection, unsaturated bond number difference ± 0-5.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that in step (7), described base starting material includes oiliness raw material, silty
One of raw material and solvent raw material or two or more combinations, described auxiliary material include surfactant, antioxygen
Agent, preservative, sun-screening agent, NMF, essence or spices and one of pigment or pigment or two or more combinations；
Wherein, it is preferred that described oiliness raw material includes：Glycerine, coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, palm oil, mink
Oil, snake oil, tallow, lanolin and its derivative, Brazil wax, spermaceti, beeswax, atoleine, vaseline, microcrystalline wax,
Saualane, silicone oil and its derivative, aliphatic acid, fatty alcohol and carbon number are 12-18 ester；
Wherein, it is preferred that described silty raw material includes：It is talcum powder, kaolin, zinc white, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hard
Resin acid zinc/magnesium, calcium carbonate/magnesium and calcium monohydrogen phosphate；
Wherein, it is preferred that described solvent raw material includes：Water, alcohol, isopropanol, n-butanol, acetone, butanone, diethyl
Glycol ether, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate.
In method of the present invention, it is preferred that in step (7), the weight of lipid composition in bionical skin care compositions
Amount percentage is 10-20%.
Further, the invention also provides it is a kind of be prepared according to the method described in the present invention be applied to young man
The bionical skin care compositions of woman, it is preferred that described skin care compositions is cream, emulsion or facial mask.
A kind of bionical skin care face cream for being applied to young man or young women, described face cream is according to of the present invention
Method is prepared；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the described face cream suitable for young man by 18% lipid composition with
And 82% base starting material and the mixture composition of auxiliary material；Wherein, described lipid composition is by Trivent OCG, sweet
Oily dilaurate, jojoba oil, saualane, ceramide III, cholesterine and jojoba ester composition, and sad glycerine three
Ester：Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：The weight ratio of jojoba ester=
196.03：12.75：3.99：9：1.91：1：11；In percentage by weight, the mixing of described base starting material and auxiliary material
Thing is by glycerine 3%, phenmethylol 0.3%, the Purified Water composition of potassium sorbate 0.3% and 96.4%；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the described face cream suitable for young women by 18% lipid composition with
And 82% base starting material and the mixture composition of auxiliary material；Wherein, described lipid composition is by Trivent OCG, sweet
Oily dilaurate, jojoba oil, saualane, ceramide III, cholesterine and jojoba ester composition, and sad glycerine three
Ester：Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：The weight ratio of jojoba ester=
210.13：13.21：4.13：4.15：4.41：1：4.3；In percentage by weight, described base starting material and auxiliary material
Mixture is by glycerine 3%, phenmethylol 0.3%, the Purified Water composition of potassium sorbate 0.3% and 96.4%.
A kind of bionical facial treatment mask for being applied to young man or young women, described facial mask is according to of the present invention
Method is prepared；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, A phase of the described facial mask suitable for young man by 12%, 87.9% B
Mutually and 0.1% C phase compositions, wherein, described A phases be by Trivent OCG, dilaurin, jojoba oil,
Saualane, ceramide III, cholesterine and jojoba ester are according to Trivent OCG：Dilaurin：Jojoba
Oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：Weight ratio=196.03 of jojoba ester：12.75：3.99：9：1.91：1：11
The lipid composition mixed；Described base starting material and the mixture of auxiliary material are by B phases and C phase compositions, wherein described
B phases by 1w/w% carbomer, 2w/w% propane diols, 0.4w/w% phenmethylol, 0.3%w/w potassium sorbate and
96.3w/w% Purified Water composition；Described C phases are triethanolamine；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the A phases of the described facial mask 12% suitable for young women, 87.9% B phases
And 0.1% C phase compositions, wherein, described A phases be by Trivent OCG, dilaurin, jojoba oil, angle
Shark alkane, ceramide III, cholesterine and jojoba ester are according to Trivent OCG：Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：
Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：Weight ratio=210.13 of jojoba ester：13.21：4.13：4.15：4.41：1：4.3
The lipid composition mixed；Described base starting material and the mixture of auxiliary material are by B phases and C phase compositions, wherein described
B phases by 1w/w% carbomer, 2w/w% propane diols, 0.4w/w% phenmethylol, 0.3%w/w potassium sorbate and
96.3w/w% Purified Water composition；Described C phases are triethanolamine.
Compared to prior art, the beneficial effects of the invention are as follows：
The present invention is using youth of both sexes skin as research object, by analyzing different sexes skin surface lipid composition and containing
Amount, filters out the higher lipid of content, then the composite parts of single component or proper ratio is added in skin care item, with system
The standby bionical skin care item for obtaining adapting to the skin condition of different sexes.Clinical test proves, is prepared into according to the method for the present invention
To skin care item more disclosure satisfy that demand of the skin to lipid of different sexes, there is good water lock moisturizing, and nothing
Skin discomfort phenomenon, there is good application prospect.
Embodiment
The invention will now be further described with reference to specific embodiments, advantages of the present invention and feature will be with description and
It is apparent.But embodiment is only exemplary, does not form any restrictions to the scope of the present invention.Those skilled in the art should
It should be appreciated that the details and form of technical solution of the present invention can be repaiied without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention
Change or replace, but these modifications and replacement are each fallen within protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment 1 is applied to the preparation of the bionical skin care face cream of youth of both sexes
1st, each 50 people of Healthy Youth men and women volunteer is selected, the age between 16-44 year, excludes disease of skin, systematicness
Disease etc., it is divided into two groups of men and women；
2nd, after cleaning face (lipid components for removing skin secretion), volunteer is made in 25 DEG C of temperature, relative humidity 50%
Constant-temperature constant-humidity environment in sit quietly 30 minutes after, remove adhesive tape behind right side cheek position, 3min with tape-stripping and be placed in sample
In pipe, the sample as lipid detection；
3rd, using Bligh-Dyer lipids extractions method (Bligh EG, Dyer WJ.Canadian journal of
biochemistry and physiology,1959,37(8):911-917.) lipid in the sample of collection is extracted.
4th, the various lipid components in the lipid of extraction are determined respectively using UPLC-QTOF-MS, detect 3412 kinds of fat altogether
Matter, lipid is classified, and analyze the content of various composition, obtain being averaged for every kind of lipid components content in every group of sample
Value, selects the higher lipid components of content.
5th, youth of both sexes lipid content is analyzed, as a result finds that content comes the lipid of the first seven and is in men and women's group
Triacylglycerol, diacylglycerol, aliphatic acid, squalene, ceramide, cholesterol and wax ester.With cholesterol level in male's group
Average value as divisor, calculate content in young man come the first seven skin lipid content ratio it is as follows：Triacylglycerol：Two
Acyl glycerine：Aliphatic acid：Squalene：Ceramide：Cholesterol：Wax ester=196.03：12.75：3.99：9：1.91：1：11；With female
Property group in cholesterol level average value as divisor, calculate content in young women and come the skin lipid content ratio of the first seven
Under such as：Triacylglycerol：Diacylglycerol：Aliphatic acid：Squalene：Ceramide：Cholesterol：Wax ester=210.13：13.21：
4.13：4.15：4.41：1：4.3.
6th, according to the structure of this seven kinds of lipid components,《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》Middle selection raw material, choosing
Select with the same or analogous lipid components of its structure, wherein, similar lipid meet with step 5 select lipid exist
Belong to the lipid monomer of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases, or its main component (content is more than 50w/w%) with
The lipid that step 5 selects belongs to the lipid mixture of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases；It is further preferred that
Also meet for lipid monomer：(a) compared with the lipid that step 5 selects, ± (0-5) individual carbon atom is differed；(b) selected with step 5
The lipid selected is compared, and unsaturated bond number differs ± (0-5).
Triacylglycerol does not exist《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》In, in LIPIDMAPS databases, sad glycerine
Three esters belong to glycerolipid with triacylglycerol, therefore select Trivent OCG to replace triacylglycerol；Diacylglycerol does not exist《
Use cosmetic material Names Catalogue》In, in LIPIDMAPS databases, dilaurin belongs to diacylglycerol
Glycerolipid, therefore select dilaurin to replace diacylglycerol；Aliphatic acid does not exist《Cosmetic material title mesh is used
Record》In, in LIPIDMAPS databases, the Main Ingredients and Appearance 11- eicosenoic acids (64.4w/w%) and aliphatic acid of jojoba oil are same
Belong to fatty acid, therefore select jojoba oil to replace aliphatic acid；The alternative method of other raw materials is the same：Saualane replaces
Squalene, ceramide III replace ceramide, and cholesterine replaces cholesterol, and jojoba ester replaces wax ester.
7th, with above-mentioned various raw materials, according to each component ratio (in man's face cream, Trivent OCG：Glycerine tin dilaurate
Ester：Jojoba oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：Jojoba ester=196.03：12.75：3.99：9：1.91：1：
11；In Ms's face cream：Trivent OCG：Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：
Jojoba ester=210.13：13.21：4.13：4.15：4.41：1：4.3) lipid suitable for youth of both sexes skin, is made into respectively
Composition.
8th, based on above-mentioned lipid composition, man's face cream and Ms's face cream suitable for different sexes, 100g are made
The preparation method of product is as follows：
Man's face cream：A phases (lipid composition) 18g, B phase are taken (containing glycerine 3w/w%, phenmethylol 0.3w/w%, sorb
Sour potassium 0.3w/w%, Purified Water 96.4w/w%) 82g, preparation method is as follows：A phases are separately heated to 80 DEG C with B phases, continuous
Under stirring state, B is added in A phases, is stirred continuously and is slowly cooled to 60 DEG C.Homogeneous is completely dispersed up to raw material, is cooled to
Room temperature, produce.
Ms's face cream：A phases (lipid composition) 18g, B phase 82g is taken (containing glycerine 3w/w%, phenmethylol 0.3w/w%, mountain
Potassium sorbate 0.3w/w%, Purified Water 96.4w/w%), preparation method is as follows：A phases are separately heated to 80 DEG C with B phases, continuous
Under stirring state, B is added in A phases, is stirred continuously and is slowly cooled to 60 DEG C.Homogeneous is completely dispersed up to raw material, is cooled to
Room temperature, produce.
Embodiment 2 is applied to the preparation of the bionical facial treatment mask of youth of both sexes
1st, each 50 people of Healthy Youth men and women volunteer is selected, the age between 16-44 year, excludes disease of skin, systematicness
Disease etc., it is divided into two groups of men and women；
2nd, after cleaning face (lipid components for removing skin secretion), volunteer is made in 25 DEG C of temperature, relative humidity 50%
Constant-temperature constant-humidity environment in sit quietly 30 minutes after, remove adhesive tape behind right side cheek position, 3min with tape-stripping and be placed in sample
In pipe, the sample as lipid detection；
3rd, using Bligh-Dyer lipids extractions method (Bligh EG, Dyer WJ.Canadian journal of
biochemistry and physiology,1959,37(8):911-917.) lipid in the sample of collection is extracted.
4th, the various lipid components in the lipid of extraction are determined respectively using UPLC-QTOF-MS, detect 3412 kinds of fat altogether
Matter, lipid is classified, and analyze the content of various composition, obtain being averaged for every kind of lipid components content in every group of sample
Value, selects the higher lipid components of content.
5th, youth of both sexes lipid content is analyzed, as a result finds that content comes the lipid of the first seven and is in men and women's group
Triacylglycerol, diacylglycerol, aliphatic acid, squalene, ceramide, cholesterol and wax ester.With cholesterol level in male's group
Average value as divisor, calculate content in young man come the first seven skin lipid content ratio it is as follows：Triacylglycerol：Two
Acyl glycerine：Aliphatic acid：Squalene：Ceramide：Cholesterol：Wax ester=196.03：12.75：3.99：9：1.91：1：11；With female
Property group in cholesterol level average value as divisor, calculate content in young women and come the skin lipid content ratio of the first seven
Under such as：Triacylglycerol：Diacylglycerol：Aliphatic acid：Squalene：Ceramide：Cholesterol：Wax ester=210.13：13.21：
4.13：4.15：4.41：1：4.3.
6th, according to the structure of this seven kinds of lipid components,《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》Middle selection raw material, choosing
Select with the same or analogous lipid components of its structure, wherein, similar lipid meet with step 5 select lipid exist
Belong to the lipid monomer of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases, or its main component (content is more than 50w/w%) with
The lipid that step 5 selects belongs to the lipid mixture of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases；It is further preferred that
Also meet for lipid monomer：(a) compared with the lipid that step 5 selects, ± (0-5) individual carbon atom is differed；(b) selected with step 5
The lipid selected is compared, and unsaturated bond number differs ± (0-5).
Triacylglycerol does not exist《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》In, in LIPIDMAPS databases, sad glycerine
Three esters belong to glycerolipid with triacylglycerol, therefore select Trivent OCG to replace triacylglycerol；Diacylglycerol does not exist《
Use cosmetic material Names Catalogue》In, in LIPIDMAPS databases, dilaurin belongs to diacylglycerol
Glycerolipid, therefore select dilaurin to replace diacylglycerol；Aliphatic acid does not exist《Cosmetic material title mesh is used
Record》In, in LIPIDMAPS databases, the Main Ingredients and Appearance 11- eicosenoic acids (64.4w/w%) and aliphatic acid of jojoba oil are same
Belong to fatty acid, therefore select jojoba oil to replace aliphatic acid；The alternative method of other raw materials is the same：Saualane replaces
Squalene, ceramide III replace ceramide, and cholesterine replaces cholesterol, and jojoba ester replaces wax ester.
7th, with above-mentioned various raw materials, according to each component ratio (in man's facial mask, Trivent OCG：Glycerine tin dilaurate
Ester：Jojoba oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：Jojoba ester=196.03：12.75：3.99：9：1.91：1：
11；In Ms's facial mask：Trivent OCG：Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：
Jojoba ester=210.13：13.21：4.13：4.15：4.41：1：4.3) lipid suitable for youth of both sexes skin, is made into respectively
Composition.
8th, based on above-mentioned lipid composition, make be applied to man's facial mask for using of young man and young women and
Ms's facial mask, the preparation method of 100g products are as follows：
Man's facial mask：The A phases 12g lipid composition of man (be applied to), B phases 87.9g (containing carbomer 1w/w%, third
Glycol 2w/w%, phenmethylol 0.4w/w%, potassium sorbate 0.3%w/w, Purified Water 96.3w/w%), C phases are the ethanol of 0.1g tri-
Amine.Preparation method is as follows：By the combined mixing of A, 70 DEG C are heated to.B phase components are mixed to uniform, are heated to 70 DEG C.In
Under uniform velocity stirring, B is added in A phases.Mixture is neutralized with C phases, is stirred continuously and is cooled to room temperature, produce.
Ms's facial mask：The A phases 12g lipid composition of Ms (be applied to), B phases 87.9g (containing carbomer 1w/w%, third
Glycol 2w/w%, phenmethylol 0.4w/w%, potassium sorbate 0.3%w/w, Purified Water 96.3w/w%), C phases are the ethanol of 0.1g tri-
Amine.Preparation method is as follows：By the combined mixing of A, 70 DEG C are heated to.B phase components are mixed to uniform, are heated to 70 DEG C.In
Under uniform velocity stirring, B is added in A phases.Mixture is neutralized with C phases, is stirred continuously and is cooled to room temperature, produce.
The effect of 3 skin care compositions of the present invention of embodiment, tests and clinical test
Experiment one：
40 people are respectively selected from the youth of both sexes healthy volunteer of embodiment 1, are entered stage by stage using three kinds of tested skin care item
Row experiment, each stage continues 4 weeks, after a stage terminates, disables tested skin care item 28 days, carries out the reality in next stage
Test.
Three kinds of tested skin care item are as follows：
Tested skin care item 1：The man's face cream or Ms's face cream prepared according to the method for embodiment 1
Tested skin care item 2：Prepared according to the method for embodiment 1, difference is not add lipid composition
Tested skin care item 3：Prepared according to the method for embodiment 1, distinguish and replaced with by the lipid composition in embodiment 1
Following lipid composition：
Dimethyl silicone polymer, stearic acid, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba oil, Ve acetates, cetostearyl alcohol, paraffin,
Hydrogenate that the poly- last of the ten Heavenly stems is dilute, and its ratio is：1.0：0.1：1.5：3.0：3.0：5.0：3.0：0.3.
Method：
First stage：After daily morning and evening clean skin, tested group of young man and young women make respectively on skin of face
With the man's face cream and Ms's face cream of tested skin care item 1.Using the 7th day respectively, 14 days, 21 days, determining skin keratin within 28 days
Layer water content, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and according to the subjective assessment statistical result of volunteer.After first stage terminates, disable tested
Skin care item 28 days, carry out the experiment of second stage.
Second stage：After daily morning and evening clean skin, tested group of young man and young women make respectively on skin of face
With tested skin care item 2.Using the 7th day, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days measure keratoderma water content, scattered and disappeared through the severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen respectively
Amount, and according to the subjective assessment statistical result of volunteer.After second stage terminates, tested skin care item are disabled 28 days, carry out the 3rd
The experiment in individual stage.
Phase III：After daily morning and evening clean skin, tested group of young man and young women make respectively on skin of face
With tested skin care item 3.Using the 7th day, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days measure keratoderma water content, scattered and disappeared through the severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen respectively
Amount, and according to the subjective assessment statistical result of volunteer.
Judgment criteria：Keratoderma water content, the measure through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage and subjective feeling (it is slight to improve, hence it is evident that
Improve, no improvement, skin are uncomfortable).
As a result：
The use result of tested skin care item 1：1) either young man volunteer or young women volunteer's skin after 2 weeks
Skin cuticlar water content significantly rises, and is remarkably decreased through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, 51% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin
State is significantly improved, and 18% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition has slight improvement, 31% youth of both sexes
Volunteer's subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort；2) either young man volunteer or young women after 4 weeks
Volunteer's keratoderma water content significantly rises, and is remarkably decreased through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and 63% youth of both sexes volunteer is subjective
To experience skin condition to be significantly improved, 27% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition has a slight improvement, 10%
Youth of both sexes volunteer subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort.
The use result of tested skin care item 2：1) the keratoderma water content of youth of both sexes volunteer after 2 weeks, through the severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen
Windage has slight improvement, 89% youth without significant changes, 11% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition
Men and women volunteer's subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort；2) youth of both sexes keratoderma water content, warp after 4 weeks
For severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage without significant changes, 14% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition has a slight improvement, 86%
Youth of both sexes volunteer subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort.
The use result of tested skin care item 3：1) youth of both sexes keratoderma water content after 2 weeks, equal through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage
Without significant changes, 10% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition is significantly improved, 15% youth of both sexes aspiration
Person's subjective feeling skin condition has slight improvement, and 75% youth of both sexes volunteer subjective feeling is without improvement, no skin discomfort etc.
Phenomenon；2) youth of both sexes volunteer keratoderma water content has risen, has been declined slightly through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage after 4 weeks,
16% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition is significantly improved, 14% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin
Skin state has a slight improvement, and 70% youth of both sexes volunteer subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort.
Experiment two：
40 people are selected respectively from the Healthy Youth men and women volunteer of embodiment 1, stage by stage using three kinds of tested skin care item
Tested, each stage continues 4 weeks, after a stage terminates, disables tested skin care item 28 days, carries out the reality in next stage
Test.
Three kinds of tested skin care item are as follows：
Tested skin care item 4：The man's facial mask and Ms's facial mask prepared according to the method for embodiment 2
Tested skin care item 5：Prepared according to the method for embodiment 2, difference is not add lipid composition
Tested skin care item 6：Prepared according to the method for embodiment 2, distinguish and replaced with by the lipid composition in embodiment 2
Following lipid composition：
Dimethyl silicone polymer, stearic acid, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba oil, Ve acetates, cetostearyl alcohol, paraffin,
Hydrogenate that the poly- last of the ten Heavenly stems is dilute, and its ratio is：1.0：0.1：1.5：3.0：3.0：5.0：3.0：0.3.
Method：
First stage：After daily morning and evening clean skin, tested group of young man and young women make respectively on skin of face
With the man's facial mask and Ms's facial mask of tested skin care item 4.Using the 7th day respectively, 14 days, 21 days, determining skin angle within 28 days
Matter layer water content, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and according to the subjective assessment statistical result of volunteer.After first stage terminates, disable by
Try skin care item 28 days, carry out the experiment of second stage.
Second stage：After daily morning and evening clean skin, tested group of young man and young women make respectively on skin of face
With tested skin care item 5.Using the 7th day, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days measure keratoderma water content, scattered and disappeared through the severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen respectively
Amount, and according to the subjective assessment statistical result of volunteer.After second stage terminates, tested skin care item are disabled 28 days, carry out the 3rd
The experiment in individual stage.
Phase III：After daily morning and evening clean skin, tested group of young man and young women make respectively on skin of face
With tested skin care item 6.Using the 7th day, 14 days, 21 days, 28 days measure keratoderma water content, scattered and disappeared through the severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen respectively
Amount, and according to the subjective assessment statistical result of volunteer.
Judgment criteria：Keratoderma water content, the measure through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage and subjective feeling (it is slight to improve, hence it is evident that
Improve, no improvement, skin are uncomfortable).
As a result：
The use result of tested skin care item 4：1) either young man volunteer or young women volunteer's skin after 2 weeks
Skin cuticlar water content all significantly rises, and is all remarkably decreased through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, 56% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling
Skin condition is significantly improved, and 18% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition has slight improvement, 26% youth
Men and women volunteer's subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort；2) youth of both sexes volunteer keratoderma water contains after 4 weeks
Amount all significantly rises, and is all remarkably decreased through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage, and 69% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition has aobvious
Writing improves, and 24% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition has slight improvement, 7% youth of both sexes volunteer subjectivity
Impression is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort.
The use result of tested skin care item 5：1) youth of both sexes volunteer's keratoderma water content after 2 weeks, dissipate through the severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen
Vector has slight improvement, 90% youth man without significant changes, 10% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition
Female volunteer's subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort；2) youth of both sexes volunteer keratoderma water contains after 4 weeks
Measure, have slight improvement, 84% aspiration without significant changes, 16% volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage
Person's subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort.
The use result of tested skin care item 6：1) youth of both sexes volunteer's keratoderma water content after 2 weeks, dissipate through the severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen
Vector is significantly improved without significant changes, 13% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition, 19% youth man
Female volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition has slight improvement, and 68% youth of both sexes volunteer subjective feeling is without improvement, no skin
Phenomena such as uncomfortable；2) after 4 weeks youth of both sexes volunteer keratoderma water content risen, through severe edema due to hypofunction of the spleen windage slightly have under
Drop, 18% youth of both sexes volunteer's subjective feeling skin condition are significantly improved, the 17% subjective sense of youth of both sexes volunteer
There is a slight improvement by skin condition, 65% youth of both sexes volunteer subjective feeling is without improvement, phenomena such as no skin discomfort.
Claims (10)
1. a kind of method that the bionical skin care compositions suitable for youth of both sexes is prepared based on skin lipid group, its feature are existed
In comprising the following steps：
(1) each 30-200 people of youth of both sexes healthy volunteer is selected respectively, is divided into two groups of men and women；
(2) after cleaning face, volunteer is sat quietly under constant-temperature constant-humidity environment 10-60 minutes, gathered respectively with tape paste method
The lipid of each volunteer's skin surface, the sample as lipid detection；
(3) skin lipid in institute's collecting sample is separately recovered using lipids extraction method；
(4) determine the content of each lipid components in the lipid of extraction respectively using instrument, and obtain every kind of lipid in every group of sample
The average value of component content；
(5) the high 1-10 kind lipid components of content are selected from every group respectively, with respective cholesterol level in every group of skin
Average value calculates the relative amount ratio of selected lipid components as divisor；
(6) exist《Cosmetic material Names Catalogue is used》Middle selection respectively and the high 1-10 kinds lipid of content in step (5) into
Separation structure is identical or or similar lipid；
(7) ratio that the lipid that step (6) obtains determines according to step (5) is mixed, obtains lipid composition, Ran Houyu
Skin care item base starting material, the auxiliary material of routine mix, and the bionical skin care compositions suitable for youth of both sexes is prepared.
2. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that the temperature of the environment described in step (2) is 20-30 DEG C, wet
Spend for 30-50%.
3. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that using the recovery of Bligh-Dyer lipids extractions method in step (3)
Skin lipid.
4. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that the instrument described in step (4) is UPLC-QTOF/MS, GC-
QTOF/MS, MALDI-TOF-MS, DART-MS or DESI-MS.
5. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that in step (6), described similar lipid refers to and step
(5) lipid components of selection belong to the lipid monomer of same Lipid Subtypes, or its main component in LIPIDMAPS databases
The lipid of (content is more than 50w/w%) and step (5) selection belongs to the lipid of same Lipid Subtypes in LIPIDMAPS databases
Mixture, it is preferred that for lipid monomer, also meet one of following condition：(a) compared with the lipid of step (5) selection, difference
± 0-5 carbon atom；(b) compared with the lipid of step (5) selection, unsaturated bond number difference ± 0-5.
6. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that in step (7), described base starting material include oiliness raw material,
One of silty raw material and solvent raw material or two or more combinations, described auxiliary material include surfactant,
Antioxidant, preservative, sun-screening agent, NMF, essence or spices and one of pigment or pigment or two or more groups
Close；
Wherein, it is preferred that described oiliness raw material includes：Glycerine, coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, palm oil, mink oil, snake
Oil, tallow, lanolin and its derivative, Brazil wax, spermaceti, beeswax, atoleine, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, spiny dogfish
Alkane, silicone oil and its derivative, aliphatic acid, fatty alcohol and carbon number are 12-18 ester；
Wherein, it is preferred that described silty raw material includes：Talcum powder, kaolin, zinc white, titanium dioxide, bentonite, stearic acid
Zinc/magnesium, calcium carbonate/magnesium and calcium monohydrogen phosphate；
Wherein, it is preferred that described solvent raw material includes：Water, alcohol, isopropanol, n-butanol, acetone, butanone, diethylene glycol
Ether, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate.
7. the method as described in claim 1, it is characterised in that in step (7), lipid composition in bionical skin care compositions
Percentage by weight is 10-20%.
8. the bionical skincare composition suitable for youth of both sexes being prepared according to the method described in claim any one of 1-7
Thing, it is preferred that described skin care compositions is cream, emulsion or facial mask.
9. a kind of bionical skin care face cream for being applied to young man or young women, it is characterised in that described face cream is according to power
Profit requires that the method described in any one of 1-7 is prepared；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the described face cream suitable for young man by 18% lipid composition and
82% base starting material and the mixture composition of auxiliary material；Wherein, described lipid composition is by Trivent OCG, glycerine
Dilaurate, jojoba oil, saualane, ceramide III, cholesterine and jojoba ester composition, and Trivent OCG：
Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：Weight ratio=196.03 of jojoba ester：
12.75：3.99：9：1.91：1：11；In percentage by weight, the mixture of described base starting material and auxiliary material is by sweet
Oil 3%, phenmethylol 0.3%, the Purified Water composition of potassium sorbate 0.3% and 96.4%；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the described face cream suitable for young women by 18% lipid composition and
82% base starting material and the mixture composition of auxiliary material；Wherein, described lipid composition is by Trivent OCG, glycerine
Dilaurate, jojoba oil, saualane, ceramide III, cholesterine and jojoba ester composition, and Trivent OCG：
Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：Saualane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：Weight ratio=210.13 of jojoba ester：
13.21：4.13：4.15：4.41：1：4.3；In percentage by weight, the mixture of described base starting material and auxiliary material
By glycerine 3%, phenmethylol 0.3%, the Purified Water composition of potassium sorbate 0.3% and 96.4%.
10. a kind of bionical facial treatment mask for being applied to young man or young women, it is characterised in that described facial mask is according to power
Profit requires that the method described in any one of 1-7 is prepared；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the described facial mask suitable for young man by 12% A phases, 87.9% B phases with
And 0.1% C phase compositions, wherein, described A phases be by Trivent OCG, dilaurin, jojoba oil, spiny dogfish
Alkane, ceramide III, cholesterine and jojoba ester are according to Trivent OCG：Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：Angle
Shark alkane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：Weight ratio=196.03 of jojoba ester：12.75：3.99：9：1.91：1：11 mixing and
Into lipid composition；Described base starting material and the mixture of auxiliary material by B phases and C phase compositions, wherein described B phases by
1w/w% carbomer, 2w/w% propane diols, 0.4w/w% phenmethylol, 0.3%w/w potassium sorbate and 96.3w/
W% Purified Water composition；Described C phases are triethanolamine；
Wherein, in percentage by weight, the described A phases of the facial mask 12% suitable for young women, 87.9% B phases and
0.1% C phase compositions, wherein, described A phases be by Trivent OCG, dilaurin, jojoba oil, saualane,
Ceramide III, cholesterine and jojoba ester are according to Trivent OCG：Dilaurin：Jojoba oil：Spiny dogfish
Alkane：Ceramide III：Cholesterine：Weight ratio=210.13 of jojoba ester：13.21：4.13：4.15：4.41：1：4.3 mixing
The lipid composition formed；Described base starting material and the mixture of auxiliary material are by B phases and C phase compositions, wherein described B phases
By 1w/w% carbomer, 2w/w% propane diols, 0.4w/w% phenmethylol, 0.3%w/w potassium sorbate and 96.3w/
W% Purified Water composition；Described C phases are triethanolamine.
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