CN107898667B - Method for preparing skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin based on skin lipidomics - Google Patents
Method for preparing skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin based on skin lipidomics Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a method for preparing a skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin based on skin lipidomics. The skin care composition prepared by the method has the effects of improving skin barrier and relieving skin sensitivity symptoms, has no irritation to skin, is easy to be accepted by consumers, and has good application prospect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a method for preparing a skin care product, in particular to a method for preparing a skin care product suitable for people with sensitive skin based on skin lipidomics, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics.
Background
The sensitive skin has complex causes and can be a comprehensive phenomenon caused by the single or combined action of endogenous factors, exogenous factors and the like of an organism. There are many endogenous factors that form sensitive skin, including sex, age, race, genetics, hormone levels, etc. The current major description of the mechanisms underlying the development of sensitive skin is a complex process involving the skin barrier-neurovascular-immunoinflammation, where maintenance of the skin barrier is considered to be a critical step in the care of sensitive skin. The influence of the content and composition change of the skin surface lipid on the skin state can be divided into three aspects: first, lipid changes at the skin surface can directly affect barrier function; secondly, the change of skin surface lipid can affect the metabolism of skin cells and indirectly affect the skin state; third, changes in skin surface lipids can affect skin micro-ecology and indirectly affect skin condition.
Lipidomics (lipidomics) is a discipline for comprehensively and systematically analyzing and identifying lipids in organisms, tissues or cells and molecules interacting with the lipids, understanding the structures and functions of the lipids and further disclosing the relationship between lipid metabolism and physiological and pathological processes of cells, organs and even organisms.
Lipidomics research is similar to other omics, and is to disclose the diversity lipid of a living body, the metabolic regulation and biological function thereof and further deeply explore the relationship between the lipidomics and physiological and pathological processes of cells, organs and living bodies by systematically researching lipidosome of the living bodies, tissues or cells and molecules interacting with the lipidosome by using a scale technical method.
At present, the difference of lipid on the surface of self-reported sensitive skin is not analyzed by a lipidomics method, and skin care products made based on the difference are not seen.
Disclosure of Invention
One of the objectives of the present invention is to establish a method for preparing a skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin based on skin lipidomics.
The invention also aims to provide the skin care product combination obtained by the method, including cream, facial mask and the like.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical means:
a method for preparing a skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin based on skin lipidomics comprising the steps of:
(1) selecting 30-200 skin healthy volunteers and 30-200 skin sensitive volunteers, dividing the skin healthy volunteers and the skin sensitive volunteers into two groups, wherein the two groups have the same gender;
(2) after cleaning the face, allowing the volunteers to sit still for 10-60 minutes in a constant temperature and humidity environment, and respectively collecting the lipid on the skin surface of each volunteer by using a tape adhesion method to serve as a sample for lipid detection;
(3) respectively recovering skin lipid in the collected samples by adopting a lipid extraction method;
(4) respectively measuring the content of each lipid component in the extracted lipid by using an instrument, and obtaining the average value of the content of each lipid component in each group of samples;
(5) selecting differential lipid between two groups by a statistical method, and calculating the relative content ratio of the selected lipid components in the healthy group by taking the average value of the skin cholesterol content of the healthy group as a divisor;
(6) respectively selecting the same or similar lipids as or in the step (5) from the used cosmetic raw material name catalog;
(7) and (3) mixing the lipid obtained in the step (6) according to the ratio determined in the step (5) to obtain a lipid composition, and then mixing the lipid composition with the conventional skin care product matrix raw material and auxiliary raw material to prepare the skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin.
In the method of the present invention, preferably, the skin sensitive volunteers in step (1) refer to people who have itching, tension, prickling and burning after skin stimulation by physical factors, chemical factors and mental factors, wherein the physical factors include cold and hot alternation, ultraviolet radiation and wind; the chemical factors comprise skin care products and environmental pollution; the mental factors include stress.
In the method of the present invention, it is preferable that the temperature of the environment in the step (2) is 20 to 30 ℃ and the humidity is 30 to 50%.
In the method of the present invention, preferably, the skin lipids are recovered in step (3) by a Bligh-Dyer lipid extraction method.
In the method of the present invention, preferably, the apparatus in step (4) is UPLC-QTOF/MS, GC-QTOF/MS, MALDI-TOF-MS, DART-MS or DESI-MS.
In the method of the present invention, preferably, in step (5), the statistical methods include Principal Component Analysis (PCA), partial least squares-discriminant analysis (PLS-DA), fold change and random forest, and more preferably, the statistical methods are partial least squares-discriminant analysis (PLS-DA), and the screening conditions are set to p <0.05, fold lipid difference between healthy group and sensitive group >2, and VIP > 1.
In the method of the present invention, preferably, in step (6), the similar lipid refers to a lipid monomer belonging to the same lipid subclass as the lipid selected in step (5) in LIPIDMAPS database, or a lipid mixture whose main component (content is more than 50 w/w%) belongs to the same lipid subclass as the lipid selected in step (5) in LIPIDMAPS database, and preferably, one of the following conditions is also satisfied for the lipid monomer; (a) a difference of + -0-5 carbon atoms compared to the lipid selected in step (5); (b) the number of unsaturated bonds differs by + -0-5 from the lipid selected in step (5).
In the method of the present invention, preferably, in step (7), the matrix material includes one or a combination of two or more of oily material, powdery material and solvent-based material, and the auxiliary material includes one or a combination of two or more of surfactant, antioxidant, preservative, sunscreen agent, humectant, essence or perfume, and pigment or pigment;
wherein, preferably, the oily raw materials comprise: glycerin, coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, palm oil, mink oil, snake oil, beef tallow, lanolin and its derivatives, carnauba wax, spermaceti wax, beeswax, liquid paraffin, vaseline, microcrystalline paraffin, squalane, silicone oil and its derivatives, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and esters having 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
wherein, preferably, the powdery raw materials comprise: talcum powder, kaolin, zinc white powder, titanium dioxide, bentonite, zinc/magnesium stearate, calcium carbonate/magnesium and calcium hydrophosphate;
wherein, preferably, the solvent raw materials comprise: water, alcohol, isopropanol, n-butanol, acetone, butanone, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethyl acetate, and butyl acetate;
in the method of the present invention, preferably, in the step (7), the lipid composition is present in the skin care composition in an amount of 10-20% by weight.
The invention further provides the skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin prepared by the method, and preferably, the skin care composition is cream, lotion or mask.
In one embodiment of the present invention, there is provided a skin care product suitable for sensitive skin of women, which is a cream or a mask prepared according to the method of any one of claims 1 to 8;
wherein, the cream comprises 18 percent of lipid composition and 86 percent of mixture of matrix raw materials and auxiliary raw materials according to weight percentage; wherein the lipid composition consists of caprylic triglyceride, squalane, ceramide III, and the ratio of caprylic triglyceride: squalane: weight ratio of ceramide III 194.03: 1.45: 2.32, the mixture of the substrate raw material and the auxiliary raw material consists of 3 percent of glycerin, 0.3 percent of benzyl alcohol, 0.3 percent of potassium sorbate and 96.4 percent of refined water according to weight percentage;
the facial mask consists of 12% of phase A, 85.9% of phase B and 0.1% of phase C in percentage by weight, wherein the phase A is composed of caprylic triglyceride, squalane and ceramide III according to the weight ratio of caprylic triglyceride: squalane: weight ratio of ceramide III 194.03: 1.45: 2.32 lipid composition obtained by mixing; the mixture of the matrix raw material and the auxiliary raw material consists of a phase B and a phase C, wherein the phase B consists of 1 w/w% of carbomer, 2 w/w% of propylene glycol, 0.4 w/w% of benzyl alcohol, 0.3 w/w% of potassium sorbate and 96.3 w/w% of refined water; the phase C is triethanolamine.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
the method takes healthy people and sensitive skin people as research objects, analyzes the skin surface lipid components and the content of the two people, screens out differential lipid by a statistical method, and then adds a single component or a composite component with a proper proportion into a skin care product to prepare the skin care product suitable for sensitive skin. Clinical tests prove that the skin care product prepared by the method can better meet the requirement of the skin of sensitive people on lipid, has a good effect of improving the skin barrier, can relieve the self-reported sensitive skin symptoms, has no skin discomfort phenomenon, and has a good application prospect.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further described with reference to specific embodiments, and the advantages and features of the invention will become apparent as the description proceeds. The examples are illustrative only and do not limit the scope of the present invention in any way. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and details may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, and that such changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
Example 1 preparation of skin Care products (creams) suitable for sensitive female skin
1. Selecting 50 female volunteers with healthy skin, and screening by questionnaire to obtain 50 female volunteers with self-reported sensitive skin, wherein the content of the questionnaire comprises physical factors (alternate cold and hot, ultraviolet radiation, wind), chemical factors (skin care products, environmental pollution) and mental factors (pressure) which cause sensitivity; sensitivity (including itching, tightness, stinging, burning); the score is 100 points full, and if the score is more than 70 points, the skin is considered to belong to the self-reporting sensitive skin population. Excluding other skin diseases, systemic diseases, etc.; dividing into two groups of healthy and sensitive groups;
2. after cleaning the face (removing lipid components secreted by the skin), allowing a volunteer to sit still for 30 minutes in a constant-temperature and constant-humidity environment with the temperature of 25 ℃ and the relative humidity of 50%, sticking the volunteer to the cheek part on the right side by using an adhesive tape, taking down the adhesive tape after 3 minutes, and placing the adhesive tape in a sample tube to be used as a sample for lipid detection;
3. the lipids in the collected samples were extracted using the Bligh-Dyer lipid extraction method (Bligh EG, Dyer WJ. Canadian journal of biochemistry and physiology,1959,37(8): 911-.
4. Respectively measuring various lipid components in the extracted lipid by using UPLC-QTOF-MS, detecting 3218 lipids together, classifying the lipids, analyzing the content of various components, and obtaining the average value of the content of each lipid component in each group of samples.
5. And (3) carrying out statistical analysis on the contents of the two groups of lipids, setting the screening conditions to be p <0.05, the lipid difference multiple of the healthy group and the sensitive group to be greater than 2 and VIP to be greater than 1 by using a partial least squares-discriminant analysis method (PLS-DA method), and obtaining the results that the different lipids are triacylglycerol, squalene and ceramide. Taking the average value of the cholesterol content of the healthy group as a divisor, calculating the proportion of the differential lipid content in the healthy group as follows: triacylglycerols: squalene: ceramide 194.03: 1.45: 2.32 of;
6. selecting a raw material from a catalog of names of used cosmetic raw materials according to the structures of the three lipid components, and selecting a lipid component having the same or similar structure, wherein the similar lipid satisfies lipid monomers belonging to the same lipid subclass as the lipid selected in the step (5) in the LIPIDMAPS database, or a lipid mixture having a main component (content more than 50 w/w%) belonging to the same lipid subclass as the lipid selected in the step (5) in the LIPIDMAPS database; further preferably, it is also satisfied for the lipid monomer that (a) there is a difference of ± (0-5) carbon atoms compared to the lipid selected in step (5); (b) the number of unsaturated bonds differs by + (+/- (0-5) compared to the lipid selected in step (5).
Triacylglycerol is not in the catalog of names of used cosmetic raw materials, and in the LIPIDMAPS database, caprylic triglyceride and triacylglycerol belong to the same glycerin class, so caprylic triglyceride is selected to replace triacylglycerol; alternative selection methods of other raw materials are the same: squalane instead of squalene and ceramide III instead of ceramide.
7. The lipid composition suitable for the self-reporting sensitive skin of the female is prepared from the raw materials according to the proportion of the components (triacylglycerol: squalene: ceramide: 194.03: 1.45: 2.32).
8. A facial cream suitable for the self-reporting sensitive skin of a female is prepared on the basis of the lipid composition, and the preparation method of 100g of the product is as follows:
taking 18g of phase A (lipid composition) and 82g of phase B (glycerol 3 w/w%, benzyl alcohol 0.3 w/w%, potassium sorbate 0.3 w/w%, refined water is supplemented to 100 w/w%), and the preparation method comprises respectively heating phase A and phase B to 80 deg.C, adding phase B into phase A under stirring, and slowly cooling to 60 deg.C under stirring. Homogenizing until the raw materials are completely dispersed, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the final product.
Example 2 preparation of skin Care products (mask) suitable for sensitive female skin
1. Selecting 50 female volunteers with healthy skin, and screening by questionnaire to obtain 50 female volunteers with self-reported sensitive skin, wherein the content of the questionnaire comprises physical factors (alternate cold and hot, ultraviolet radiation, wind), chemical factors (skin care products, environmental pollution) and mental factors (pressure) which cause sensitivity; sensitivity (including itching, tightness, stinging, burning); the score is 100 points full, and if the score is more than 70 points, the skin is considered to belong to the self-reporting sensitive skin population. Excluding other skin diseases, systemic diseases, etc.; dividing into two groups of healthy and sensitive groups;
2. after cleaning the face (removing lipid components secreted by the skin), allowing a volunteer to sit still for 30 minutes in a constant-temperature and constant-humidity environment with the temperature of 25 ℃ and the relative humidity of 50%, sticking the volunteer to the cheek part on the right side by using an adhesive tape, taking down the adhesive tape after 3 minutes, and placing the adhesive tape in a sample tube to be used as a sample for lipid detection;
3. the lipids in the collected samples were extracted using the Bligh-Dyer lipid extraction method (Bligh EG, Dyer WJ. Canadian journal of biochemistry and physiology,1959,37(8): 911-.
4. Respectively measuring various lipid components in the extracted lipid by using UPLC-QTOF-MS, detecting 3218 lipids together, classifying the lipids, analyzing the content of various components, and obtaining the average value of the content of each lipid component in each group of samples.
5. And (3) carrying out statistical analysis on the contents of the two groups of lipids, setting the screening conditions to be p <0.05, the lipid difference multiple of the healthy group and the sensitive group to be greater than 2 and VIP to be greater than 1 by using a partial least squares-discriminant analysis method (PLS-DA method), and obtaining the results that the different lipids are triacylglycerol, squalene and ceramide. Taking the average value content of the cholesterol in the healthy group as a divisor, calculating the content ratio of the differential lipid in the healthy group as follows: triacylglycerols: squalene: ceramide 194.03: 1.45: 2.32 of;
6. selecting a raw material from a catalog of names of used cosmetic raw materials according to the structures of the three lipid components, and selecting a lipid component having the same or similar structure, wherein the similar lipid satisfies lipid monomers belonging to the same lipid subclass as the lipid selected in the step (5) in the LIPIDMAPS database, or a lipid mixture having a main component (content more than 50 w/w%) belonging to the same lipid subclass as the lipid selected in the step (5) in the LIPIDMAPS database; further preferably, it is also satisfied for the lipid monomer that (a) there is a difference of ± (0-5) carbon atoms compared to the lipid selected in step (5); (b) the number of unsaturated bonds differs by + (+/- (0-5) compared to the lipid selected in step (5).
Triacylglycerol is not in the catalog of names of used cosmetic raw materials, and in the LIPIDMAPS database, caprylic triglyceride and triacylglycerol belong to the same glycerin class, so caprylic triglyceride is selected to replace triacylglycerol; alternative selection methods of other raw materials are the same: squalane instead of squalene and ceramide III instead of ceramide.
7. The lipid composition suitable for the self-reporting sensitive skin of the female is prepared from the raw materials according to the proportion of the components (triacylglycerol: squalene: ceramide: 194.03: 1.45: 2.32).
8. Based on the lipid composition, a facial mask suitable for the self-reporting sensitive skin of a female is prepared, and the preparation method of 100g of the product is as follows:
12g of phase A (lipid composition), 87.9g of phase B (carbomer 1 w/w%, propylene glycol 2 w/w%, benzyl alcohol 0.4 w/w%, potassium sorbate 0.3% w/w, refined water to 100 w/w%), and 0.1g of triethanolamine phase C. The preparation method comprises mixing phase A and heating to 70 deg.C. Mixing phase B components until uniform, and heating to 70 deg.C. Phase B was added to phase A with moderate stirring and the mixture was neutralized with phase C. Continuously stirring and cooling to room temperature to obtain the product.
Example 3 efficacy test and clinical test of skin care product of the present invention
Experiment one:
the test was carried out in three stages, each of which lasts 4 weeks, using 40 selected from the group of self-reported sensitive skin persons of example 1, and after one stage was completed, the test skin care product was stopped for 28 days and the test was carried out in the next stage.
The three skin care products tested were as follows:
skin care product to be tested 1: cream prepared according to the method of example 1
Skin care product 2: prepared according to the method of example 1, except that no lipid composition is added
Skin care product to be tested 3: prepared according to the method of example 1, except that the lipid composition in example 1 was replaced with the following lipid composition:
polydimethylsiloxane, stearic acid, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba oil, Ve acetate, cetostearyl alcohol, paraffin and hydrogenated polydecene, wherein the ratio of the components is as follows: 1.0: 0.1: 1.5: 3.0: 3.0: 5.0: 3.0: 0.3.
the method comprises the following steps:
the first stage is as follows: after cleansing the skin in the morning and evening every day, the cream of the skin care product 1 was applied to the facial skin. The water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss were measured on days 7, 14, 21 and 28, respectively, and the results were statistically evaluated according to the subjective evaluation of volunteers. After the first phase, the skin care product was removed from service for 28 days and the second phase of the experiment was performed.
And a second stage: after cleansing the skin in the morning and evening each day, the skin care product 2 was applied to the facial skin. The water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss were measured on days 7, 14, 21 and 28, respectively, and the results were statistically evaluated according to the subjective evaluation of volunteers. After the second phase, the skin care product to be tested was stopped for 28 days, and the experiment was performed in the third phase.
And a third stage: after cleansing the skin in the morning and evening each day, the skin care product 3 to be tested was applied to the facial skin. The water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss were measured on days 7, 14, 21 and 28, respectively, and the results were statistically evaluated according to the subjective evaluation of volunteers.
And (4) judging the standard: measurement of water content of skin stratum corneum, amount of water loss through skin, and subjective perception of sensitive skin symptoms (slight improvement, significant improvement, no improvement, skin discomfort).
As a result:
results of use of skin care product 1 tested: 1) after 2 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum of the skin is obviously increased, the transdermal water loss is obviously reduced, 39 percent of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin state is obviously improved, 21 percent of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin sensitivity state is slightly improved, and 40 percent of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin sensitivity state is not improved, and the skin discomfort and other phenomena do not exist; 2) after 4 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum of the skin is obviously increased, the transdermal water loss is obviously reduced, 63% of volunteers subjectively experience the skin sensitivity state to be obviously improved, 27% of volunteers subjectively experience the skin sensitivity state to be slightly improved, and 10% of volunteers subjectively experience the skin sensitivity state to be not improved, and the skin discomfort is avoided.
Results of use of skin care product 2 tested: 1) after 2 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum and the water loss amount of the skin are not obviously changed, 11 percent of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin sensitivity state is slightly improved, and 89 percent of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin sensitivity state is not improved, and the phenomena of skin discomfort and the like do not exist; 2) after 4 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum and the water loss amount of the skin are not obviously changed, 14 percent of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin sensitivity state is slightly improved, and 86 percent of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin sensitivity state is not improved, and the skin discomfort is avoided.
Results of use of skin care product 3 tested: 1) after 2 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss are not obviously changed, 13% of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin state is obviously improved, 15% of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin sensitivity state is slightly improved, 72% of volunteers subjectively feel that the skin sensitivity state is not improved, and the skin discomfort is avoided; 2) after 4 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum of the skin is increased, the transdermal water loss is slightly reduced, 16% of volunteers subjectively feel the skin sensitivity state to be obviously improved, 14% of volunteers subjectively feel the skin sensitivity state to be slightly improved, and 70% of volunteers subjectively feel the skin sensitivity state to be not improved, and have no phenomena of skin discomfort and the like.
Experiment two:
the test was carried out in three stages, each of which lasts 4 weeks, using 40 selected from the group of self-reported sensitive skin persons of example 1, and after one stage was completed, the test skin care product was stopped for 28 days and the test was carried out in the next stage.
The three skin care products tested were as follows:
skin care product tested 4: facial mask prepared according to the method of example 2
Skin care product to be tested 5: prepared according to the method of example 2, except that no lipid composition is added
Skin care product 6: prepared according to the method of example 2, except that the lipid composition in example 2 was replaced with the following lipid composition:
polydimethylsiloxane, stearic acid, isononyl isononanoate, jojoba oil, Ve acetate, cetostearyl alcohol, paraffin and hydrogenated polydecene, wherein the ratio of the components is as follows: 1.0: 0.1: 1.5: 3.0: 3.0: 5.0: 3.0: 0.3.
the method comprises the following steps:
the first stage is as follows: after cleansing the skin in the morning and evening every day, the face masks of the skin care product 4 were applied to the facial skin, respectively. The water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss were measured on days 7, 14, 21 and 28, respectively, and the results were statistically evaluated according to the subjective evaluation of volunteers. After the first phase, the skin care product was removed from service for 28 days and the second phase of the experiment was performed.
And a second stage: after cleansing the skin in the morning and evening each day, the skin care product 5 was applied to the facial skin. The water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss were measured on days 7, 14, 21 and 28, respectively, and the results were statistically evaluated according to the subjective evaluation of volunteers. After the second phase, the skin care product to be tested was stopped for 28 days, and the experiment was performed in the third phase.
And a third stage: after cleansing the skin in the morning and evening each day, the skin care product 6 was applied to the facial skin. The water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss were measured on days 7, 14, 21 and 28, respectively, and the results were statistically evaluated according to the subjective evaluation of volunteers.
And (4) judging the standard: measurement of water content of skin stratum corneum, amount of water loss through skin, and subjective perception of sensitive skin symptoms (slight improvement, significant improvement, no improvement, skin discomfort).
As a result:
results of use of skin care product 4 tested: 1) after 2 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum of the skin is obviously increased, the transdermal water loss is obviously reduced, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 56% of volunteers is obviously improved, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 18% of volunteers is slightly improved, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 26% of volunteers is not improved, and the phenomena of skin discomfort and the like do not exist; 2) after 4 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum of the skin is obviously increased, the transdermal water loss is obviously reduced, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 69% of volunteers is obviously improved, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 25% of volunteers is slightly improved, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 6% of volunteers is not improved, and the skin discomfort is avoided.
Results of use of the skin care product 5 tested: 1) after 2 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss are not obviously changed, 12% of volunteers subjectively feel the sensitive skin state to be slightly improved, 88% of volunteers subjectively feel the sensitive skin state to be not improved, and the phenomena of skin discomfort and the like do not exist; 2) after 4 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss are not obviously changed, 15% of volunteers subjectively feel the sensitive skin state to be slightly improved, and 85% of volunteers subjectively feel the sensitive skin state to be not improved, and the phenomena of skin discomfort and the like are avoided.
Results of use of the skin care product 6 tested: 1) after 2 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum and the transdermal water loss are not obviously changed, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 10% of volunteers is obviously improved, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 21% of volunteers is slightly improved, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 69% of volunteers is not improved, and the phenomena of skin discomfort and the like do not exist; 2) after 4 weeks, the water content of the stratum corneum of the skin is increased, the transdermal water loss is slightly reduced, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 19% of volunteers is obviously improved, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 16% of volunteers is slightly improved, the subjective feeling sensitive skin state of 65% of volunteers is not improved, and the skin discomfort is avoided.
Claims (12)
1. A method for preparing a skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin based on skin lipidomics comprising the steps of:
(1) selecting 30-200 skin healthy volunteers and 30-200 skin sensitive volunteers, dividing the skin healthy volunteers and the skin sensitive volunteers into two groups, wherein the two groups have the same gender;
(2) after cleaning the face, allowing the volunteers to sit still for 10-60 minutes in a constant temperature and humidity environment, and respectively collecting the lipid on the skin surface of each volunteer by using a tape adhesion method to serve as a sample for lipid detection;
(3) respectively recovering skin lipid in the collected samples by adopting a lipid extraction method;
(4) respectively measuring the content of each lipid component in the extracted lipid by using an instrument, and obtaining the average value of the content of each lipid component in each group of samples;
(5) selecting differential lipid between two groups by a statistical method, and calculating the relative content ratio of the selected lipid components in the healthy group by taking the average value of the skin cholesterol content of the healthy group as a divisor;
(6) respectively selecting the same or similar lipids as or in the step (5) from the used cosmetic raw material name catalog; the similar lipid refers to a lipid monomer belonging to the same lipid subclass in LIPIDMAPS database as the lipid selected in step (5), or a lipid mixture containing more than 50 w/w% of main components belonging to the same lipid subclass in LIPIDMAPS database as the lipid selected in step (5), wherein one of the following conditions is satisfied for the lipid monomer: (a) a difference of + -0-5 carbon atoms compared to the lipid selected in step (5); (b) compared with the lipid selected in the step (5), the number of unsaturated bonds is +/-0-5;
(7) and (3) mixing the lipid obtained in the step (6) according to the ratio determined in the step (5) to obtain a lipid composition, and then mixing the lipid composition with conventional skin care product matrix raw materials and auxiliary raw materials to prepare the skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin, wherein the weight percentage of the lipid composition in the skin care composition is 10-20%.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the skin sensitive volunteers of step (1) are persons with itching, tightness, stinging and burning symptoms after skin stimulation by physical, chemical and mental factors, wherein the physical factors include alternating heat and cold, ultraviolet radiation, wind; the chemical factors comprise skin care products and environmental pollution; the mental factors include stress.
3. The method of claim 1, wherein the environment of step (2) has a temperature of 20-30 ℃ and a humidity of 30-50%.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein in step (3) the skin lipids are recovered by Bligh-Dyer lipid extraction.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein the instrument in step (4) is UPLC-QTOF/MS, GC-QTOF/MS, MALDI-TOF-MS, DART-MS or DESI-MS.
6. The method of claim 1, wherein in step (5), the statistical methods comprise Principal Component Analysis (PCA), partial least squares-discriminant analysis (PLS-DA), fold change, and random forest.
7. The method of claim 6, wherein the statistical method is partial least squares-discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) and the screening conditions are set to p <0.05, fold lipid difference between healthy and sensitive groups >2, VIP > 1.
8. The method according to claim 1, wherein in step (7), the base material comprises one or a combination of two or more of oily material, powdery material and solvent-based material, and the auxiliary material comprises one or a combination of two or more of surfactant, antioxidant, preservative, sunscreen agent, humectant, essence or perfume, and pigment or pigment.
9. The method of claim 8, wherein said oily raw materials comprise: glycerin, coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, palm oil, mink oil, snake oil, beef tallow, lanolin and its derivatives, carnauba wax, spermaceti wax, beeswax, liquid paraffin, vaseline, microcrystalline paraffin, squalane, silicone oil and its derivatives, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and esters having 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
the powdery raw materials comprise: talcum powder, kaolin, zinc white powder, titanium dioxide, bentonite, zinc/magnesium stearate, calcium carbonate/magnesium and calcium hydrophosphate;
the solvent raw materials comprise: water, alcohol, isopropanol, n-butanol, acetone, butanone, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethyl acetate, and butyl acetate.
10. A skin care composition suitable for sensitive skin prepared according to the method of any one of claims 1 to 9.
11. The skin care composition of claim 10, wherein the skin care composition is a cream, lotion or mask.
12. A skin care product suitable for sensitive female skin, which is a cream or mask, characterized in that the cream or mask is prepared according to the method of any one of claims 1 to 9;
wherein, the cream comprises 18 percent of lipid composition and 82 percent of mixture of matrix raw materials and auxiliary raw materials according to weight percentage; wherein the lipid composition consists of caprylic triglyceride, squalane, ceramide III, and the ratio of caprylic triglyceride: squalane: weight ratio of ceramide III 194.03: 1.45: 2.32, the mixture of the substrate raw material and the auxiliary raw material consists of 3 percent of glycerin, 0.3 percent of benzyl alcohol, 0.3 percent of potassium sorbate and 96.4 percent of refined water according to weight percentage;
the facial mask consists of 12% of phase A, 87.9% of phase B and 0.1% of phase C in percentage by weight, wherein the phase A is composed of caprylic triglyceride, squalane and ceramide III according to the weight ratio of caprylic triglyceride: squalane: weight ratio of ceramide III 194.03: 1.45: 2.32 lipid composition obtained by mixing; the mixture of the matrix raw material and the auxiliary raw material consists of a phase B and a phase C, wherein the phase B consists of 1 w/w% of carbomer, 2 w/w% of propylene glycol, 0.4 w/w% of benzyl alcohol, 0.3 w/w% of potassium sorbate and 96.3 w/w% of refined water; the phase C is triethanolamine.
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