WO2023161293A1

WO2023161293A1 - Lipid-based cosmetic composition intended to be integrated in a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: WO2023161293A1
Application number: PCT/EP2023/054458
Authority: WO
Inventors: Nabila BELHAJ
Original assignee: Belâge Care
Priority date: 2022-02-23
Filing date: 2023-02-22
Publication date: 2023-08-31
Also published as: FR3132843A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a lipid-based cosmetic composition comprising cerides (10-20% by weight), ceramides (4-20% by weight), triglycerides (4-20% by weight) and phospholipids (4-20% by weight). The invention also relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibres, comprising a step of mixing said lipid-based cosmetic composition with at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, to the cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibres obtained by said method, and to the use of said cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibres, preferably intended for the skin of babies and children, in order to enable, after topical application: the reinforcement of the skin barrier; the prevention of visual and superficial skin disorders in sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort preferably being itching, warming, a tingling sensation and/or a taut sensation; the prevention of skin dehydration; and/or the restoration of skin hydration.

Description

Lipid cosmetic composition intended to be incorporated into a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers

The present invention relates to a lipid cosmetic composition comprising cerides, ceramides, triglycerides and phospholipids. The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers comprising a step of mixing said lipid cosmetic composition with at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, the cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers obtained by said process, and the use of said cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers intended preferably for the skins of babies and children to allow, after topical application: the reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier, the prevention of visual and superficial skin conditions in sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort being preferably an itching, burning, tingling sensation and/or tightness, prevention of skin dehydration and/or restoration of skin hydration.

Prior art

[0002] Since we were born, our skin has required very special care to maintain the integrity of our skin barrier. Indeed, the skin of children and more particularly that of newborns is very sensitive, particularly at the level of the upper skin layer, called the stratum corneum, which is extremely thin, and practically devoid of fat.

[0003] Children's skin is in fact extremely sensitive to external aggressions, in fact it pulls, tingles, itches and reacts excessively to everything, particularly in cold weather and if it is strongly exposed to the sun.

[0004] Indeed, the skin of children is hypersensitive to variations in temperature and to the humidity level of the ambient air. This dehydration is linked to an exaggerated Transepidermal Water Loss. Transepidermal Water Loss (TWL) is the natural evaporation of water from the skin during the natural cycle of water migration in the skin.

[0005] Thus, there is an imperative need to have cosmetic compositions capable of preventing disorders such as itching, heating, tingling sensation and/or tightness sensation and preventing skin dehydration and/or restoring skin hydration by maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier, to overcome the aforementioned technical problem. [0006] In addition, without necessarily being recommended, parents may tend to wash their baby daily. One of the problems linked to this washing with soaps or surfactants is the possible modification of the characteristics of the skin and more particularly of its pH.

[0007]Similarly, as repeated washings are carried out, the child's skin is weakened and delipidated by the existing care products on the market, which leads to problems of dehydrated skin with numerous undesirable effects such as desquamation, itching, which can even lead to the appearance of patches of eczema.

[0008] Consequently, a need has arisen to provide a lipid cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibres, in particular for the skin of babies and young children, by giving them good hydration, maintaining the integrity of the skin barrier, and/or by protecting the epidermis of children against external attacks while not using products considered undesirable for children and more particularly for the skin of infants and newborns.

[0009] Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant has demonstrated that a lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention responds to this technical problem.

[0010] In fact, the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention, in particular added to at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers which acts as an alternative to the products found on the market in care of the skin and keratin fibers of children and in particular babies, with good hydration of the skin, maintenance of the integrity of the skin barrier and/or protection of the epidermis of children against external aggressions.

[0011] This lipid cosmetic composition, in particular added to at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers which is also part of prevention, which is not not the case in most care products intended for children and more particularly for babies, found on the market.

[0012] Indeed, certain creams, lotions, balms, etc. . . known on the market, make it possible to treat pain, redness, itching after the appearance of the latter. The lipid cosmetic composition and the cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention have a preventive action, in order to avoid the appearance of these undesirable and harmful effects for a young baby's skin, in the sense that they prevent visual and superficial cutaneous affections of the child's epidermis.

[0013] In addition, certain cosmetic compositions found on the market incorporate sulphates and/or silicone and/or mineral oils and/or paraben and/or at least one synthetic perfume. Not only are these ingredients increasingly refused by parents in cosmetic compositions intended for their children, but it is important to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier of a newborn, not to moisturize it if possible with products comprising one of the aforementioned active ingredients. It is recognized for some that their action can be harmful for the skin of the child and in particular of the baby, and cause itching, redness and other undesirable effects.

[0014] The Applicant has therefore taken these problems into account by producing a range of care for the skin and keratin fibers which can be used at any age and on any type of skin and preferably intended to be used for children and in particular for babies, which proposes a lipid cosmetic composition intended for the cosmetic manufacture of a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers with a view to strengthening the skin barrier, preventing visual and superficial skin conditions at the level of sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort preferably being itching, heating, a tingling sensation and/or a feeling of tightness, the prevention of skin dehydration and /or the restoration of skin hydration, preferably by offering a natural product, without silicone, without mineral oils, without parabens and without synthetic perfume to be better tolerated by the skin of children and in particular babies.

Description

According to a first object of the invention, the applicant has developed a lipid cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises at least one combination of cerides, ceramides, triglycerides, phospholipids. This lipid cosmetic composition is also referred to below as a “booster” in the sense that it can improve the skin and keratin fiber care performance of an existing cosmetic composition.

The ingredients of said lipid cosmetic composition are combined in effective amounts. By "effective amount" is meant within the meaning of the present invention an amount sufficient to obtain the expected effect, which can be determined by a person skilled in the art. Preferred amounts are indicated in the remainder of this text for each ingredient of said cosmetic composition.

Thus the first object of the invention preferably relates to a lipid cosmetic composition comprising:

- Between 10% and 20% by weight of the composition of cerides, preferably between 12 and 16%;

- Between 4% and 20% by weight of the composition of ceramides, preferably between 5 and 18%;

- Between 10% and 40% by weight of the composition of triglycerides, preferably 25 to 35%; And

- Between 4% and 20% by weight of the composition of phospholipids, preferably 6 and 10%.

[0018] By "lipid cosmetic composition" is meant within the meaning of the invention, a cosmetic composition, that is to say intended for topical application to the skin, mainly composed of lipids, which is preferably intended for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibres. Preferably, said lipid cosmetic composition is diluted and/or dispersed in vegetable oils or glycols. In fact, the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention is mixed either with at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient, or with an existing cosmetic composition for care of the skin and keratin fibres, in order to increase its results in terms of hydration, for example. , repair of the skin barrier, etc. The applicant wanted in particular to integrate a lipid cosmetic composition into a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers in order to recover the action of intercomeocyte lipids. Indeed, the corneocytes, which are apoptotic cells of the stratum corneum resulting from the maturation process known as "keratinization" or terminal differentiation of the epidermis, are the cells constituting the greater part of the outer layer of the epidermis in humans and are trapped in a lipid matrix.

[0019] By "corneocytes" is meant in the sense of the invention, cells which are surrounded by lipids organized in sheets which play a fundamental role as a dynamic hydrophobic barrier. They are the seat of sequences of absorption and desorption of water molecules within the intercomeocyte spaces. Essentially synthesized by keratinocytes and derived from the secretion of lamellar bodies, the lipids of the stratum corneum have a very specific composition. The main lipids present in the stratum corneum are ceramides (45-50% by mass), cholesterol (25% by mass) and free fatty acids (10-15% by mass). It has been observed that the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention presented an alternative to the apolar lipids found on the surface of the epidermis of babies at birth.

[0020] By "intercomeocyte lipids" is meant within the meaning of the invention, lipids surrounding the corneocytes having an arrangement in superimposed lamellae. They are thus arranged perpendicular to the surface of the corneocytes, parallel to each other, on either side of the adjacent horny envelopes. Furthermore, lipids from the stratum corneum (horny layer) show a broad distribution in polarity. Apolar lipids predominate in the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention, such as cerides and triglycerides, whereas the lipids that make up the stratum corneum are rather polar. In addition, the stratum corneum contains said cerides and said triglycerides but in small amount.

By "cerides" is understood according to the invention, a homolipid very insoluble in water, chemically inert. They are esters of fatty acids and long chain aliphatic alcohols (fatty alcohol). They are generally primary, even-carbon, saturated and unbranched alcohols. The length of the carbon chains varies from 14 to 30 carbon atoms for the fatty acid and from 16 to 36 carbon atoms for the fatty alcohol. Said wax according to the invention being of vegetable origin, that is to say coming from the coating of the leaves. The dominant ester is palmitic acid and myricyl alcohol (CH3-(CH2)28-CH2OH) followed by myricyl hypogeate (hypogeic acid is a C16:1A2).

Preferably according to the invention, said cerides are chosen from fatty alcohol esters and fatty acids, preferably jojoba oil.

[0023] By "ceramides" is meant within the meaning of the invention, structurally heterogeneous and complex lipids, essential components of the stratum corneum. Indeed, the ceramides are present in a proportion of between 45 and 50% by mass of the lipids present in the stratum corneum. Their skeleton consists of a sphingoid base linked to a fatty acid by an amide bond. Depending on their chemical structure, sphingoid bases can be of four types: sphingosine (S), dihydrosphingosine (DS), phytosphingosine (P), and 6-hydroxy sphingosine (H). These molecules are found in large quantities in the cell membranes, where they enter in particular into the constitution of sphingomyelin. The fatty acids which constitute them generally have an even number (from 16 to 24) of carbon atoms, are saturated or monounsaturated, and are often a-hydroxylated. Ceramides help form the skin barrier and keep the skin hydrated. Indeed, a deficiency in ceramides can be the cause of skin problems, eczema, psoriasis and rosacea. UV rays and temperature variations are also factors that impact the amount of ceramides, and can alter the skin barrier, thus contributing to dry skin. A contribution in ceramides thus participates in the restoration of the cutaneous barrier, the hydration of the skin and the protection of the epidermis against aggressors. The ceramides used according to the present invention are preferably extracted from plants.

Preferably according to the invention, said ceramides are chosen from ceramides AP, EOS, EOP, NG/NS, NP, EOH and/or AH, preferably ceramides NS/NG and/or NP.

By "triglycerides" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, glycerides in which the three hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified with fatty acids. They are the main constituents of vegetable oils and butters and are a source of ATP through the release of fatty acids.

Preferably according to the invention, said triglycerides are provided by the vegetable butter and/or vegetable oil preferably chosen from vegetable butter of mango, murumuru seeds, cocoa, cupuaçu, olive, shea, vegetable oil of avocado and/or almond sweet, preferably cocoa butter, shea butter and/or sweet almond oil.

[0027] By "vegetable butter" is understood in the sense of the invention, solid and unctuous fatty substances which have the same properties as vegetable oils, namely properties of nutrition of the upper layer of the epidermis. This vegetable butter mimics the effect of triglycerides by providing more emollience, hydration and leaving a rich film on the surface of the epidermis. In addition, vegetable butters are rich in saturated fatty acids, especially palmitic and stearic acid.

[0028] By "vegetable mango butter" is meant according to the present invention, a butter-type composition obtained by mechanical pressure then filtration by physical processes without solvent or chemical raw material, of the kernel of the mango kernel (Mangifera indica).

By "vegetable murumuru seed butter" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, a butter-like composition obtained from mechanical pressure of the kernel of murumuru fruits (Astrocaryum murumuru).

[0030] By "vegetable cupuaçu butter" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, a butter-type composition obtained from a first cold pressing of cupuaçu beans (Theobroma grandifolium).

[0031] By "vegetable olive butter" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, a butter made from olive oil, preferably cold pressed, and a fraction from olive oil. olive composed of palmitic and stearic acid triglycerides and rich in olive unsaponifiables.

By "vegetable cocoa butter" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, a butter-type composition obtained from a first cold pressing, without filtration and without deodorization of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao).

By "vegetable shea butter" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, a butter type composition obtained by mechanical pressure sorted nuts (Butyrospermum parkii).

By "vegetable oil" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, a liquid fat at room temperature, extracted from an oleaginous plant, that is to say a plant whose seeds, nuts, almonds or fruits contain lipids. The main constituents of vegetable oil are mainly triglycerides, phospholipids, free fatty acids, phenolic compounds and antioxidants. Topically, vegetable oil restores skin homeostasis.

[0035] By "sweet almond vegetable oil" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, an oil-type composition resulting from a first cold pressing almond from fruit (Prunus dulcis).

By “phospholipids” is meant within the meaning of the invention, a lipid containing a phosphoric acid group as a mono or di-ester. This family includes in particular phosphatidic acids and phosphoglycerides. They are amphiphilic lipids, ie made up of a polar (hydrophilic) “head” and two aliphatic (hydrophobic) “tails”. Although most phospholipids are phosphoglycerides, whose head is organized around a glycerol-3-phosphate residue esterified by a polar molecule, and the two tails are the aliphatic chains of two fatty acids, the other phospholipids according to the present invention are sphingolipids, which are structurally derived from sphingosine, sphingomyelins or ceramides and not from glycerol, sphingosine being a constituent of one of the two aliphatic tails mentioned above. Preferably, the phospholipids used according to the present invention are extracted from plants. Particularly preferably, the phospholipids are extracted from rapeseed and/or sunflower.

Preferably according to the invention, said phospholipids are chosen from lecithins, preferably non-hydrogenated, native and/or de-oiled lecithins.

A second object of the invention relates to the process for manufacturing a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers comprising at least one step of mixing the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention, with at least one cosmetically acceptable agent.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention consists of 1 to 99% of the lipid cosmetic composition and 99% to 1% of at least one cosmetically acceptable agent. . Even more preferably, the cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention consists of 1 to 10% of the lipid cosmetic composition and of 99% to 90% of at least one cosmetically acceptable agent. Particularly preferably, the cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention consists of 1 to 5% of the lipid cosmetic composition and of 99% to 95% of at least one cosmetically acceptable agent.

[0040] By “cosmetically acceptable agent” is meant within the meaning of the invention, a compound capable of having an activity or not, in the context of a cosmetic use. The agents used in the context of this invention are intended for topical use. In the context of this invention, the agent is for example chosen from water, humectants, emollients, lamellar phase emulsifiers, mild nonionic foaming agents, film-forming agents, antimicrobials or alternatively soothing active agents. According to the present invention, said at least one cosmetically acceptable agent can be a mixture of cosmetically acceptable agents, constituting a cosmetic care composition skin and keratin fibres, to which the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention will be added.

By "water" is meant according to the present invention preferably distilled water, mineral water or Aloe Vera water.

[0042] By "humectant" is understood in the sense of the invention, a cosmetic substance which absorbs water or helps another substance to retain moisture at the cutaneous level, in fact, the humectant agent makes it possible to attract and retain water from the dermis inside the epidermal cells.

[0043] By “emollient” is understood, within the meaning of the invention, a cosmetic substance making it possible to relax biological tissues. The emollient agent helps reduce dehydration or dryness. Emollient agents smooth, soften and protect the surface of the skin by filling the microfissures that form between the cells of the superficial layers of the epidermis. They are sometimes called restructuring agents. They also oppose the evaporation of water. By their constitution, essentially composed of natural lipids, they are likely to penetrate deeper into the epidermis and play an active role there.

By "emulsifier" is understood in the sense of the invention, a molecule which within its structure has a duality of polarity, in the sense that one part is hydrophilic and the other is rather hydrophobic. Thus in an emulsion, the emulsifiers will be placed all around the droplets and the emulsion will thus gain in stability. The emulsifier thus makes it possible to bind the water (aqueous phase) to the fatty substance, since the water and the oil do not mix. The two ingredients repel each other, so that they can be transformed into cream it is therefore necessary to provide the binder, the main role of the emulsifier.

[0045] By "non-ionic mild foaming agent" is meant within the meaning of the invention, a natural surfactant making it possible to form a more or less abundant foam to carry dust, undesirable particles, excess sebum and dirt with it in order to washing the epidermis after application of the washing care composition to the skin. Non-ionic surfactants are the most natural surfactants on the market today.

By "film-forming agent" is understood in the sense of the invention, an agent making it possible to reduce PIE (Insensible Water Losses) by opposing the evaporation of water. Film-forming agents do not penetrate the epidermis. They act on the surface by reinforcing or replacing the hydrolipidic film and effectively slow down the evaporation of water. They are also called occlusive agents. They belong to two large families: hydrophobic (or greasy) film-formers and hydrophilic film-formers.

[0047] By “antimicrobial” is meant within the meaning of the invention, an active ingredient making it possible to preserve cosmetic products by annihilating the presence of bacteria in the cosmetic composition of the invention. In fact, the antimicrobial agent makes it possible to prevent the risk of bacterial contamination of the consumer.

[0048] By "soothing active" is meant in the sense of the invention, a cosmetic active allowing to maintain the physiological balance of the skin, in particular in babies, who have skin that is more fragile and prone to irritation.

A third object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers obtained by the process according to the invention comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable agent chosen from water, preferably in an amount sufficient to and/or a humectant, preferably in an amount between 5% and 10% by total weight of the composition and/or an emollient, preferably in an amount between 1% and 30% by total weight of the composition and/ or an emulsifier, preferably in an amount of between 0.01% and 5% by total weight of the composition and/or at least one mild nonionic foaming agent, preferably in an amount of between 2.5% and 7, 5% by total weight of the composition and/or a film-forming agent, preferably in an amount of between 0.2% and 2% by total weight of the composition and/or an antimicrobial, preferably in an amount of between 0, 5% and 1% by total weight of the composition and/or a soothing active ingredient, preferably in an amount of between 0.05% and 0.5% by total weight of the composition.

Preferably according to the invention, said cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers is in the form of a cream, preferably a moisturizing cream or a diaper cream, an ointment, an ointment, a mask, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse, an aerosol, a stick, a cleansing gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, patches, an aqueous-alcoholic or oily aqueous solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, a gel aqueous or oily and/or an anhydrous liquid, pasty or solid product.

By "ointment" is understood in the sense of the invention, an ointment with a pasty consistency, a fatty or resinous substance, of soft, pasty consistency, serving various uses. An ointment approximates the consistency of a balm.

By "cream" is understood according to the invention, a cosmetic emulsion resulting from the mixture of an aqueous phase and an oily phase.

By “serum” is meant according to the invention a liquid or gel cosmetic product comprising a high concentration of active ingredient in order to deliver it quickly.

By "emulsion" is meant according to the present invention, a pseudoemulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases by means of gelling agents) or an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion or in a gel or a multiple water emulsion in oil in water.

[0055] By "moisturizing cream composition" is meant within the meaning of the invention, a cosmetic composition which hydrates the skin and prevents its dehydration by reconstituting the hydrolipidic film, which allows the natural protection of the skin, eliminated by the soap during its cleaning. The cosmetic moisturizing cream composition according to the present invention also comprises water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a film-forming agent and an antimicrobial.

[0056] By "diaper cream composition" is understood in the sense of the invention, a cosmetic composition designed to take care of the baby's seat from birth, it prevents redness and other skin irritations at the level of the seat. This rich and thick cream has a double function: to help repair existing irritations and to soothe thanks to their anti-inflammatory action. The cosmetic diaper cream composition according to the present invention also comprises water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a film-forming agent, an antimicrobial and a soothing active ingredient.

[0057] By “detangling/styling spray composition” is meant within the meaning of the invention, a composition serving to facilitate the putting back in order of tangled hair or which has knots. The detangling cosmetic composition acts thanks to a lubricating film which smooths the scales of the hair and sheaths it. Most often, the detangling/styling spray cosmetic composition is marketed in the form of a spray-diffuser. The detangling/styling spray cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, a film-forming agent and an antimicrobial.

[0058] By "washing gel composition" is meant within the meaning of the invention, a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel making it possible to clean the skin and the keratin fibers by eliminating the particles of pollution, dust, and any other dirt present on the latter. The cosmetic washing gel composition according to the invention further comprises water, a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, at least one mild nonionic foaming agent, a film-forming agent and an antimicrobial.

Preferably, according to the invention, said lipid cosmetic composition preferably consists of 95%, preferably 98% and particularly preferably 100% of ingredients of plant origin.

Preferably, according to the invention, said cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers consists preferably of 95%, preferably 98% and particularly preferably 100% of ingredients of vegetable.

[0061] By “ingredients of plant origin” is understood within the meaning of the invention, an active plant extract.

[0062] A fourth object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers which, after topical application, allows: the reinforcement of the skin barrier, the prevention of visual and superficial skin conditions in sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort being preferably an itching, burning, tingling sensation and/or tightness, prevention of skin dehydration and/or restoration of skin hydration.

[0063] By “non-therapeutic” is understood in the sense of the invention, a cosmetic application not intended to treat a patient, but which is carried out on a healthy individual. In fact, the cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention does not act as a medicine for the treatment of various diseases such as acne, xerosis, psoriasis or even eczema, but makes it possible to improve the superficial visual appearance of the skin and of the keratin fibres, in a healthy individual.

[0064] By "healthy individual" is understood in the sense of the invention a person not affected by a pathology of the skin or keratin fibers.

According to one embodiment, the healthy individual is a baby or a child.

[0066] By "topical application" is meant within the meaning of the invention, the application of the cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and of the keratin fibers according to the invention to the surface of the skin, and the penetration of this last in the stratum corneum, otherwise called stratum corneum, constituting the first surface thickness of the skin, the most superficial layer of the epidermis.

[0067] By “strengthening the skin barrier” is understood in the sense of the invention, the protection and reconstruction of the skin barrier by maintaining the hydration of the skin, which will make it possible to strengthen its hydrolipidic film.

[0068] By "prevention of visual and superficial skin conditions" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, the prevention of a skin disorder linked to the dehydration of the skin, at the level of the most superficial layer of the epidermis, namely the stratum corneum otherwise called stratum corneum. Said cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers according to the invention making it possible to improve the visual appearance of the skin.

[0069] By "feeling of discomfort" is meant according to the present invention, an itching, heating, a tingling sensation and / or a feeling of tightness, the prevention of skin dehydration and / or the restoration of hydration skin.

A fifth object of the invention relates to a composition for use in the treatment of acne, xerosis, psoriasis or even eczema.

[0071] By "acne" is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a disease present in infants, causing an excess of sebum which results in the appearance of small white pimples or comedones the size of a head of pin and by small red pimples, papules. There is then an inflammation of the skin which can appear at the level of the cheeks, the forehead, the chin, the nose, behind the ears and at the level of the scalp. [0072] By “xerosis” is understood within the meaning of the present invention, a disease present in infants which is characterized by very dry skin, which feels tight and tingling which can prove to be very uncomfortable for the baby.

By "psoriasis" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, a skin disease present in infants which is characterized by the presence of red patches called "erythema" covered with a crust called adherent "squama". The plates are well limited and touch the body relatively symmetrically. As in adults, there are elective sites where the plaques develop: elbows, knees, lower back and scalp in particular. Unlike eczema, psoriasis plaques do not scratch or very little.

[0074] By "eczema" is understood according to the present invention, a skin disease present in infants which is characterized by the presence of dry or even very dry skin, redness appears in patches and can quickly become covered with small vesicles. that will ooze, and when the ooze dries, it gives way to crusts. Throughout the evolution of the disease, the plaques itch the child and give him a strong urge to scratch, in fact participating in the creation of crusts on the surface of the skin.

Preferably, according to the invention, said non-therapeutic use of the cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers is intended for the skin of babies and children.

According to a variant embodiment, the invention relates to a kit comprising the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention (also called "booster") and a composition comprising cosmetically acceptable ingredients and intended to receive the addition of said cosmetic composition lipid “booster”. The mixture of the two compositions of the kit (lipid composition "booster" and at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient) makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers which is preferably in the form of a cream, preferably a moisturizer or a diaper cream, an ointment, an ointment, a mask, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, mousse, aerosol, stick, cleansing gel, shampoo, conditioner, patches, hydroalcoholic or oily aqueous solution, oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, of an aqueous or oily gel and/or of a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product.

According to a variant embodiment, the method of the invention may comprise the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic composition available on the market and to which the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention has been added. This addition of the lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention can typically be done in proportions of 1 to 99%, preferably 1 to 20%, preferably 1 to 10%, so particularly preferred from 1 to 5% and makes it possible to confer or increase the characteristics of hydration, prevention of dehydration, and prevention of skin disorders of the said cosmetic composition available on the market. The lipid cosmetic composition of the invention acting as a booster on the moisturizing properties of conventional skin care ranges and keratin fibers for babies.

[0078] By "cosmetic composition available on the market" is meant according to the invention, preferably a conventional moisturizing cream composition or a diaper cream composition or a detangling/styling spray composition or a washing care composition in the form gel, cream, lotion, in liquid or solid form, marketed to consumers.

In the description and in the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are percentages by weight and the ranges of values denominated in the form "between ... and ..." include the specified lower and upper limits. The examples below are presented by way of non-limiting illustration of the field of the invention.

Examples

Example 1: Test of the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The lipid cosmetic composition is packaged in glass packaging.

The lipid cosmetic composition of this example comprises the following formulation:

- 20% jojoba oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 20% of ceramide NP by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 10% of vegetable mango butter by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 30% sweet almond oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; And

- 20% rapeseed lecithin by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition.

The “booster” lipid cosmetic composition is incorporated into a 10% cosmetic formulation tested on explants of skin which are washed and treated beforehand with said lipid cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0084] The tests are carried out in comparison with a conventional skin care cosmetic composition, existing on the market. Said cosmetic care composition of the skin being a moisturizer.

For the application, 2 mg/cm ² of the lipid cosmetic composition are spread over the skin explants according to the surface of the epidermis to be covered.

[0086] Similarly, the same application with the same quantities is made with a moisturizing and protective cream for babies of the Mixa ^Tm brand on explants of skin.

The composition of the moisturizing and protective cream for babies of the Mixa ^Tm brand is as follows: AQUA / WATER • CYCLOHEXASILOXANE • CETYL ALCOHOL • GLYCERIN • GLYCERYL STEARATE • PAR AFFINUM LIQUIDUM / MINERAL OIL • HELIANTHES ANNUUS SEED OIL / SUNFLOWER SEED OIL • BUTYROSPERMUM PARK II BUTTER / SHEA BUTTER • PEG-40 STEARATE • CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE • CITRIC ACID • GLYCINE SOJA OIL / SOYBEAN OIL • MYRISTYL ALCOHOL • PRUNUS AMYGDALES DELC IS OIL / SWEET ALMOND OIL • SORBITAN TRISTEARATE • STEARYL ALCOHOL • TOCOPHEROL • PARF UM / FRAGRANCE (WIRE Bl 89508/1).

It is also observed, in order to characterize through a certain number of parameters, o The appearance o The smell; o The color; o Texture; o The ease of spreading of said lipid cosmetic composition o The softness of the skin after topical application; o Appearance of the skin after topical application; o The presence of a film after topical application: o The hydration and nutrition felt after topical application; o The reaction of the epidermis following topical application; o Observation of the possible appearance of redness, plaques or other adverse effects;

These parameters are measured for the lipid cosmetic composition thanks in particular to a Tewamètre® which makes it possible to measure the PIE, a parameter which provides information on the integrity of the skin barrier.

The measurement is carried out using a probe applied to the surface of the skin for 30 seconds. During contact, the amount of water evaporated (g/h/m ² ) is measured.

[0091] High PIE values correspond to a large quantity of water evaporated at the surface of the skin and, therefore, to a damaged skin barrier. A decrease in PIE (Transepidermal Water Loss) is a very good indicator of improved skin barrier integrity.

[0092] In addition, the corneometry is measured using a Corneometer® which provides information on the degree of hydration of the superficial layers of the skin. stratum corneum) by measuring its dielectric properties.

The measurement is performed using a probe applied to the surface of the skin. Upon contact, an electric field crosses the stratum corneum, and the dielectric constant is then measured.

The value of the dielectric constant obtained (in arbitrary units) is directly proportional to the degree of hydration of the skin.

By means of these measurements, it is observed that the skin covered with the lipid cosmetic composition (booster) according to the invention is better hydrated and that the skin barrier has undergone less alteration (is better preserved) than skin having been covered with a conventional skincare cosmetic composition, such as a moisturizing and protective cream for babies of the Mixa ^Tm brand, known on the market.

Example 2: Test of a cosmetic skincare composition of the moisturizing emulsion type comprising 5% of “booster” lipid cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic skincare composition comprises the "booster" lipid composition for 5% by weight of the final composition and 95% of a composition containing two cosmetically acceptable agents, the latter being distilled water and a emulsifying.

[0098] The cosmetic skincare composition is packaged in a glass packaging.

The skincare cosmetic composition of this example comprises 5% of the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition of the following formula:

- 20% jojoba oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 20% of ceramide NP by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 30% sweet almond oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; And

- 20% rapeseed lecithin by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition.

[0100] The lipid cosmetic composition is mixed with distilled water and an emulsifier. The lipid composition represents 5% by weight of the final cosmetic skin care composition, the distilled water represents 94% by weight of the cosmetic skin care composition and the glyceryl stearate citrate represents 1% by weight of the composition skincare cosmetic. The cosmetic skincare composition thus obtained is in the form form of an emulsion.

[0101] The cosmetic skincare composition is tested on skin explants. [0102] The tests are carried out in comparison with a conventional skin care cosmetic composition, existing on the market. Said cosmetic composition for skin care being a moisturizing and protective cream for babies of the Mixa ^Tm brand.

[0103] The composition of the moisturizing and protective cream for babies of the Mixa ^Tm brand is as follows: AQUA / WATER • CYCLOHEXASILOXANE • CETYL ALCOHOL • GLYCERIN • GLYCERYL STEARATE • PAR AFFINUM LIQUIDUM / MINERAL OIL • HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL / SUNFLOWER SEED OIL • BUTYROSPERMUM PARK II BUTTER / SHEA BUTTER • PEG-40 STEARATE • CHLORHEXIDINE DIGLUCONATE • CITRIC ACID • GLYCINE SOJA OIL / SOYBEAN OIL • MYRISTYL ALCOHOL • PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL / SWEET ALMOND OIL • SORBITAN TRISTEARATE • STEARYL ALCOHOL • TOCOPHEROL • PAR FUM / FRAGRANCE (WIRE Bl 89508/1).

[0104] For application, 2 mg/cm ² of the cosmetic skin care composition are spread over the explants of skin according to the surface of the epidermis to be covered.

[0105] In a similar manner, the same application with the same quantities is made with a moisturizing cream from the Mixa ^Tm brand on explants of skin.

[0106] It is also observed, in order to characterize through a certain number of parameters, o The appearance o The smell; o The color; o Texture; o The ease of spreading of said cosmetic skincare composition; o The softness of the skin after topical application; o Appearance of the skin after topical application; o The presence of a film after topical application: o The hydration and nutrition felt after topical application; o The reaction of the epidermis following topical application; o Observation of the possible appearance of redness, plaques or other adverse effects;

[0107] These parameters are measured for the cosmetic skincare composition thanks in particular to a Tewameter® which makes it possible to measure the PIE, a parameter which provides information on the integrity of the skin barrier.

[0109] High values of PIE correspond to a large quantity of water evaporated at the surface of the skin and, therefore, to a damaged skin barrier. A decrease PIE (Transepidermal Water Loss) is a very good indicator of improvement in the integrity of the skin barrier.

[0110] In addition, the corneometry is measured using a Corneometer® which provides information on the degree of hydration of the superficial layers of the skin (stratum corneum) by measuring its dielectric properties.

By means of these measures, it is observed that the skin covered with the "booster" lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention associated with two cosmetically acceptable agents, namely distilled water and an emulsifier (glyceryl stearate citrate), is better hydrated and the skin barrier is less altered (is better preserved) than skin covered with a moisturizing and protective cosmetic composition for babies from the Mixa ^Tm brand.

Example 3: Test of a cosmetic skincare composition of the washing gel type for babies comprising 10% of “booster” lipid cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic skincare composition comprises the "booster" lipid composition for 10% by weight of the final composition and 90% of cosmetically acceptable agents, the latter being a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier, at least a mild non-ionic foaming agent, an antimicrobial and a film forming agent.

[0116] The cosmetic skincare composition is packaged in a glass packaging.

The skincare cosmetic composition of this example comprises 10% of the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition of the following formula:

- 20% jojoba oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 20% of ceramide NP by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 30% sweet almond oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; And

- 20% rapeseed lecithin by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition. Combined with the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cosmetic skincare composition comprising several cosmetically acceptable agents for 90% of the formulation of the final cosmetic skincare composition, namely:

- 10% vegetable glycerin by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition;

- 5% of plant lanolin substitute by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition;

- 3% of OLIVEM 1000 by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 6% of Coco Glucoside by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition;

- 1% of beeswax by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition;

- 1% crowberry by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition; And

- Water in qsp, from the formulation of the final skincare cosmetic composition.

[0119] The cosmetic skincare composition is tested on skin explants which are washed with said cosmetic skincare composition.

[0120] The tests are carried out in comparison with a conventional skin care cosmetic composition, existing on the market. Said cosmetic skin care composition being a soap-free foaming and mild cleansing gel from the ABCDerm range of the Bioderma ^Tm brand.

The composition of the foaming gel and mild cleanser, without soap, from the ABCDerm range of the Bioderma ^Tm brand is as follows: AQUA/WATER/EAU; SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE; COCO-BETAINE; METHYLPROPANEDIOL; SODIUM CHLORIDE; PENTYLENE GLYCOL; PEG-90 GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE; LAURETH-2; CITRIC ACID; DISODIUM EDTA; SODIUM CITRATE; FRAGRANCE (PERFUME).

For application, 2 mg/cm ² of the cosmetic skin care composition are spread over the skin explants according to the surface of the epidermis to be covered and then rinsed with water.

[0123] In a similar manner, the same application with the same quantities is made with the foaming gel and mild cleanser, without soap, from the ABCDerm range of the Bioderma ^Tm brand on explants of skin.

[0124] It is also observed, in order to characterize through a certain number of parameters, o Appearance o Smell; o The color; o Texture; o The spreadability of said cosmetic skin care composition; o The softness of the skin after topical application; o Appearance of the skin after topical application; o The presence of a film after topical application: o The hydration and nutrition felt after topical application; o The reaction of the epidermis following topical application; o Observation of the possible appearance of redness, plaques or other undesirable effects;

These parameters are measured for the cosmetic skin care composition thanks in particular to a Tewamètre® which makes it possible to measure the PIE, a parameter which provides information on the integrity of the skin barrier.

[0127] High values of PIE correspond to a large quantity of water evaporated at the surface of the skin and, therefore, to a damaged skin barrier. A decrease in PIE (Transepidermal Water Loss) is a very good indicator of improved skin barrier integrity.

In addition, the corneometry is measured using a Corneometer® which provides information on the degree of hydration of the superficial layers of the skin (stratum corneum) by measuring its dielectric properties.

The measurement is carried out using a probe applied to the surface of the skin. Upon contact, an electric field crosses the stratum corneum, and the dielectric constant is then measured.

[0131] By means of these measurements, it is observed that the skin washed with the skin care composition of baby washing gel type is better hydrated and that the skin barrier undergoes less alteration (is better preserved) than the skin having been washed with the foaming gel and mild cleanser, without soap, from the ABC Derm range of the Bioderma ^Tm brand.

[0132] Example 4: HR.IPT test

[0133] The cosmetic skincare composition is packaged in a glass packaging.

The skin care cosmetic composition of this example comprises 7% of the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition of the following formula:

- 20% of jojoba oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; - 20% of ceramide NP by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 30% sweet almond oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; And

- 20% rapeseed lecithin by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition.

Associated with the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention is a cosmetic skincare composition comprising several cosmetically acceptable agents for 93% of the formulation of the final cosmetic skincare composition, namely:

- 10% vegetable glycerin by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 5% of plant lanolin substitute by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 3% of OLIVEM 1000 by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 6% of Coco Glucoside by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition;

- 1% of beeswax by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition;

- 1% crowberry by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition; And

- Water in qsp, from the formulation of the final skin care cosmetic composition.

[0136] Objective of the study:

The purpose of this study is to determine the sensitizing properties of the product of the above composition in a panel of healthy human subjects using the “Draize Repeated Insult Patch” test.

[0138] Relevance of the study:

[0139] On the basis of the existing data, the main objective of the study is a better knowledge of the cutaneous safety of the above experimental product. The purpose of the test is to examine the composition according to the invention may have sensitizing properties in subjects with healthy skin.

[0140] General principle of the study:

The composition according to the invention must be applied to the region intrascapular of the back or on the upper part of the arm, by the trained technician. The sealing patch will be maintained for 24 hours in the induction phase (a series of nine applications) and in the provocation phase with examination of the skin after 24 and 48 hours after removal of the patch.

[0142] Methodology:

The test is carried out on 50 volunteers. 15 pl of the composition according to the invention is applied to the filter paper discs manufactured by SmartPractice® and bonded by surgical patch or by using the Finn chamber or any other similar chamber.

[0144] Induction phase: The patch is applied to its designated contact site and remains in place for 24 hours. At the end of this period, the patch is removed and the site is examined for any dermal response. Subjects are rested for 24 hours, and the skin site is then re-examined. A patch is then applied to the same site as previously used. The second application is identical to the first and remains in place for 24 hours. This procedure is repeated on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays or Sundays, Tuesdays and Thursdays until a series of nine applications is made. Subjects examine the site for any skin reactions and report their findings before the next application. The same site is used throughout the study. Each application is set up and taken down by the institute staff.

[0145] Challenge phase: After the 9th application, a rest period of 2 weeks has elapsed, after which a challenge application is applied in the same way and on the same site as described above. The challenge application is removed after 24 hours and the site is examined and scored for signs of irritation or sensitization after one hour (after application removal). A follow-up examination is carried out 48 hours after the challenge application (24 hours after removal of the patch), as well as 48 hours after removal.

[0146] Rating scale:

- 0 - No visible reaction.

-? - Doubtful reaction: weak and minimal erythema, no infiltration.

- 1 - Weakly positive reaction: erythema, infiltration, discrete papules.

- 2 - Strongly positive reaction: erythema, infiltration, papules, discrete vesicles.

- 3 - Extremely positive reaction: intense erythema, infiltration, coalescing vesicles, bullous reaction.

- IR - Irritant reaction: discreet erythema without infiltration/follicular erythema in plaques/haemorrhagic and follicular pustules. - NT - Not tested.

[0147] Subjects:

- Number: 50

- Gender: Male, Female,

- Age: Over 18 years old

- Skin: Regular

- Skin type: I - IV on the Fitzpatrick scale; Caucasians

[0148] Patient inclusion criteria:

- Healthy subject.

- Skin without irritation or alteration requiring pharmacological treatment.

[0149] Results:

No visible reaction is identified for the 50 volunteers, meaning that the composition according to the invention is well tolerated by the skin of the volunteers.

[0151] Example 5: ISO CHALLENGE TEST - Evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of the composition according to the invention, according to the ISO 11930:2019 standard

[0152] The cosmetic skincare composition is packaged in a glass packaging.

- 20% jojoba oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 20% of ceramide NP by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 30% sweet almond oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; And

- 20% rapeseed lecithin by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition.

- 10% vegetable glycerin by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition; - 5% of plant lanolin substitute by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 3% of OLIVEM 1000 by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 6% of Coco Glucoside by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 1% of beeswax by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 1% crowberry by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition; And

[0155] Bacterial and fungal strains:

The test is carried out with the following reference strains:

- Staphylococcus aureus ATCC* 6538 (CIP equivalent** 4.83)

- Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027 (CIP equivalent 82.118)

- Escherichia coli ATCC 8739 (CIP equivalent 53.126)

- Candida albicans ATCC 10231 (equivalent IP*** 48.72)

- Aspergillus brasiliensis ATCC 16404 (equivalent IP 1431)

[0157] Determination of the effectiveness of the preservative system of the composition according to the invention

[0158] Preparation of the composition according to the invention

The composition according to the invention is divided into five sterile pots of 20 g or 20 mL, each being intended for one of the strains.

The five pots are inoculated with 0.2 mL of each of the inocula prepared previously so as to obtain final concentrations between 1.10 ⁵ and 9.9.10 ⁵ CFU/g or mL for the bacteria and between 1.10 ⁴ and 9.9.10 ⁴ CFU /g or mL for Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis. The jars are vigorously shaken to guarantee a homogeneous distribution of the inoculum in the product.

The jars are stored at +22.5°C ± 2.5°C and away from light for the twenty-eight days of the analysis.

[0162] Counts

The analyzes on the inoculated pots are carried out at times D7, D14 and D28.

From each of the five inoculated pots, 1 g or 1 mL are taken and then diluted ^to 1/10th with the EUGON LT S LP neutralizer. For the first counting time (D7), a second 1/100th dilution is carried out in the neutralizing diluent. A pause time of 30 min ± 15 min at room temperature is applied, a duration corresponding to the neutralization of the preservative system of the product.

[0165] Successive decimal dilutions in Tryptone-salt diluent are carried out in order to count the viable microorganisms.

All the dilutions in the neutralizer and in the diluent are counted at time D7. At times D14 and D28, the number of dilutions counted is adapted according to the results obtained at the previous times.

1 mL of each of the tubes is taken and then placed in sterile 90 mm Petrie dishes. 15 to 20 mL of agar medium, kept supercooled in a water bath at a temperature not exceeding +48°C, are then poured into the boxes (TSA for bacteria, SDA for yeasts and PDA for moulds).

The dishes are incubated at +32.5°C ± 2.5°C for 48 - 96 h for the bacteria and C. albicans, and at +22.5 ± 2.5°C for 3 - 5 days for A. brasiliensis .

[0169] Expression of results

[0170] Initial count of microorganisms

The initial calibration of the inocula by spectrophotometry (N) is verified in parallel by double counting of the dilution comprising the authorized reading range. The dilution factor (d) is therefore applied to the average number of colonies counted on the dishes (C).

N=C×10 ^d where N must be 10 ⁷ CFU/mL for bacteria and 10 ⁶ CFU/mL for yeasts and molds.

The inoculation of the jars then takes place with 0.2 mL of the inocula in 20 g of product, a dilution factor of 100 is applied to the latter.

N0=N/100 where N0 must be 10 ⁵ CFU/mL for bacteria and 10 ⁴ CFU/mL for yeasts and molds.

Example: for an average of 30 colonies counted on the dishes of one of the bacteria 30 x 10 ⁶ = 3.10 ⁷ CFU/mL for the initial inoculum

[0176] 3.10 ⁷ /100 = 3.10 ⁵ CFU/mL for the initial concentration in the pot

[0177] Count of microorganisms at each reading time

At the reading times D7, D14 and D28, the number of viable microorganisms in the contaminated product is evaluated (Nx). It corresponds to the ratio between the number of colonies counted (C) and the dilution factor (d) applied during counting.

[0179] Nx = C x l0 ^d

Example: for 42 colonies counted on a dish at a dilution of 10' ³

42 x 10 ³ = 4.2.10 ⁴ CFU/mL for the number of viable microorganisms at a chosen time

[0182] Interpretation of results

At each reading time and for each of the five germs, the logarithmic reduction rate (Rx) is calculated. It is compared to the values required for the evaluation criteria A or B.

- Criteria A: the formula is protected against microbial proliferation that could present a potential risk for the user and no other factor is taken into account.

- Criteria B: the level of protection is acceptable if the risk analysis demonstrates the existence of control factors unrelated to the formulation indicating that the microbiological risk is acceptable for the cosmetic product.

The criteria are expressed either by a minimum value of the logarithmic reduction rate, or by "PA" (no increase) when the requirement is that no increase in the microbial population occurs.

- If all the reduction rates meet the A criteria, the formula meets the A requirements of the antimicrobial protection efficacy test.

- If all or part of the reduction rates correspond only to criteria B, the formula satisfies requirements B of the antimicrobial protection efficacy test.

- If one or more of the reduction rates does not correspond to criteria A or criteria B, the formula does not meet the requirements of the antimicrobial protection efficacy test.

[0185] Results:

The composition according to the invention satisfies the requirements of the antimicrobial protection efficacy test.

Example 6: Efficacy Test of the Composition According to the Invention

[0188] The cosmetic skincare composition is packaged in a glass packaging.

The skincare cosmetic composition of this example comprises 7% of the “booster” lipid cosmetic composition of the following formula:

- 20% jojoba oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 20% of ceramide NP by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition;

- 30% sweet almond oil by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition; And

- 20% rapeseed lecithin by total weight of the lipid cosmetic composition.

[0190] With the "booster" lipid cosmetic composition according to the invention is associated a cosmetic skincare composition comprising several cosmetically acceptable agents for 93% of the formulation of the final cosmetic skincare composition, namely:

- 10% vegetable glycerin by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 3% of OLIVEM 1000 by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition;

- 6% of Coco Glucoside by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition;

- 1% of beeswax by total weight of the cosmetic skincare composition;

- 1% crowberry by total weight of the cosmetic skin care composition; And

[0191] Purpose of the study:

The purpose of the study is to confirm or refute the efficacy of the product.

[0193] Duration of the study:

[0194] The duration of the study is 28 days (+/- 2 days)

[0195] Test method:

[0196] Instrumental test of the level of hydration of the skin using the Corneometer® CM 825:

The objective of this test is to define the direct influence of the composition according to the invention on the level of hydration of the skin after 28 days of application. The test is carried out with a measuring device from the company Courage + Khazaka - Corneometer® CM 825. The instrumental study is carried out on the skin of the forearm. The tested and control zones are indicated on the inner part of the forearm of 22 subjects. The application area is 3 x 3 cm. The first marked area is placed approximately 5 cm from the carpal flexure. Immediately before the tests, the subject's skin is not treated with other cosmetics. Just before the application of the cosmetic product, the measurements of the hydration of the skin are carried out on each zone in all the tested zones and the control zones. The tested product is applied to the indicated area according to the method of use. The hydration measurements are carried out before (t0), after 24 hours (t24h) and after 28 days post-application of the composition according to the invention. Each final result is the arithmetic mean of 5 individual measures. The study is carried out in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 20 ± 2°C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10%.

The declaration of the product is confirmed when the ratio between the number of positive results and the total number of subjects is greater than 50%. Positive results are located in value greater than 2.0 a. u.

Instrumental test of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using the Tewameter® TM 300:

[0200] The aim of the study is to confirm the action of preventing water loss by the epidermis - transepidermal water loss after 28 days of application. The test is carried out with a special measuring device from the company Courage + Khazaka - Tewameter® TM 300. The instrumental study is carried out on the skin of the forearm. The tested and control zones are indicated on the inner part of the forearm of 22 subjects. The application area is 3 cm x 3 cm. The first marked area is placed approximately 5 cm from the carpal flexure. Immediately before the tests, the subject's skin is not treated with other cosmetics. Just before the application of the cosmetic product, the measurements of the transcutaneous water loss are carried out on each zone in all the places tested and the control places. The tested product is applied to the indicated area according to the method of use. The TEWL measurements are carried out before (tO), after 24 hours (t24h) and after 28 days post-application of the product. Each final result is the arithmetic mean of the individual values obtained during a measurement lasting at least 20 seconds. All studies are carried out in an air-conditioned room with a temperature of 20 ± 2°C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10%. The declaration of the product is confirmed when the ratio between the number of positive results and the total number of subjects is greater than 50%. The interpretation of the results is done according to Courage & Khazaka guidelines according to the following table.

[0201] Table 1: Courage & Khazaka Directives

[0202] Results:

[0203] Under the conditions of the study, it is concluded that the composition according to the invention:

- Hydrates the skin after just one application;

- Decreases PIE (transepidermal water loss);

- Hydrates the skin after 28 days of regular use.

- Decreases transepidermal water loss, thus strengthening the hydro-barrier skin lipid after 28 days of use.

Claims

[Claim 1] Lipid cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises:

[Claim 2] Lipid cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said cerides are chosen from fatty alcohol esters and fatty acids, preferably jojoba oil.

[Claim 3] Lipid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said ceramides are chosen from the cerides AP, EOS, EOP, NG/NS, NP, EOH and/or AH, preferably the ceramides NS /NG and/or NP

[Claim 4] Lipid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said triglycerides are provided by vegetable butter and/or vegetable oil, preferably chosen from vegetable butter of mango, murumuru seeds, cocoa, cupuaçu, olive, shea butter, avocado and/or sweet almond oil, preferably cocoa butter, shea butter and/or sweet almond oil.

[Claim 5] Lipid cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said phospholipids are chosen from lecithins, preferably non-hydrogenated, native and/or de-oiled lecithins.

[Claim 6] Process for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers comprising at least one step of mixing the lipid cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5 with at least one cosmetically acceptable agent .

[Claim 7] Cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers obtained by the process according to Claim 6, characterized in that the said at least one cosmetically acceptable agent is chosen from water, preferably in an amount sufficient to and/ or a humectant, preferably in an amount comprised between 5% and 10% by total weight of the composition and/or an emollient, preferably in an amount comprised between 1% and 30% by total weight of the composition and/or an emulsifier, preferably in an amount of between 0.01% and 5% by total weight of the composition and/or at least one mild nonionic foaming agent, preferably in an amount of between 2.5% and 7.5% in total weight of composition and/or a film-forming agent, preferably in an amount comprised between 0.2% and 2% by total weight of the composition and/or an antimicrobial, preferably in an amount comprised between 0.5% and 1% by weight total of the composition and/or a soothing active ingredient, preferably in an amount of between 0.05% and 0.5% by total weight of the composition.

[Claim 8] Cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers according to Claim 7, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream, preferably a moisturizing cream or a diaper cream , an ointment, an ointment, a mask, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam, an aerosol, a stick , a cleansing gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, patches, an aqueous-alcoholic or oily aqueous solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous or oily gel and/or a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product.

[Claim 9] Cosmetic composition for caring for the skin and keratin fibers according to any one of Claims 7 and 8, characterized in that it consists of 95%, preferably 98% and particularly preferably 100 %, ingredients of vegetable origin.

[Claim 10] Non-therapeutic use in a healthy individual of the cosmetic composition for the care of the skin and keratin fibers according to any one of Claims 7 to 9, characterized in that it allows, after topical application: the reinforcement of the skin barrier, the prevention of visual and superficial skin conditions in sensitive skin, the skin disorder preferably being a feeling of discomfort, the feeling of discomfort being preferably an itching, heating, tingling sensation and/or a feeling of tightness, the prevention of skin dehydration and/or the restoration of skin hydration.

[Claim 11] Use according to claim 10, wherein the healthy individual is a baby or a child.