CN107217517A - 一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法 - Google Patents

一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法 Download PDF

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CN107217517A
CN107217517A CN201710513587.XA CN201710513587A CN107217517A CN 107217517 A CN107217517 A CN 107217517A CN 201710513587 A CN201710513587 A CN 201710513587A CN 107217517 A CN107217517 A CN 107217517A
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softening agent
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吴凤其
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TAICANG QISHENG CHEMICAL FIBER FACTORY
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法，该工艺的具体步骤如下：织布‑退浆‑纤维素酶整理‑烘烤‑染色‑上柔软剂‑烘烤‑免烫整理‑包装，通过退浆去除服装上的浆料，采用生物抛光整理和免烫整理，能够制备出符合要求的牛仔布，效果明显，具有较好实用价值，且工艺节能环保，并且通过采用该方法解决了传统牛仔布颜色单一，布面风格沉闷，无弹力，穿着不够舒适，缺乏视觉冲击力的问题，适应了时代的潮流，提花层体现了时尚的元素。

Description

一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法
技术领域
本发明涉及服装面料领域，特别是一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法。
背景技术
在20世纪80年代，美国牛仔布产量是全球产量的50％，但在最近的十年之中，中国、印度、巴基斯坦、马来西亚、土尔其和墨西哥建立了大量的牛仔布生产厂，美国乃至世界的牛仔布生产重心已转移至亚洲低劳动力成本的国家，牛仔布也叫作裂帛，是一种较粗厚的色织经面斜纹棉布，经纱颜色深，一般为靛蓝色，纬纱颜色浅，一般为浅灰或煮练后的本白纱，又称靛蓝劳动布。始于美国西部，放牧人员用以制作衣裤而得名。
传统的牛仔布面料，简单讲是一组染色纱线与另一组本白色纱线织造而成，所以，传统牛仔布面料里面是露白的，而外面是有色的。传统的牛仔布面料所用的纱线是用靛蓝或硫化染料所染，服装色调较单一。然而，随着社会的发展与进步，人们的审美观点也不断进步，颜色单一，布面风格沉闷，无弹性，缺乏视觉冲击力的传统牛仔布，不再适应时代潮流。
发明内容
发明目的：本发明的目的是为了解决现有技术的不足，提供一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法，以便更好的进行环保生产，制备符合要求的牛仔布，解决了传统牛仔布颜色单一，布面风格沉闷，缺乏视觉冲击力的问题，适应了时代的潮流。
技术方案：为了实现以上目的，本发明所述的一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法的具体步骤如下：
(a)织布
在温度＜25℃，湿度为60％～70％的工艺条件下，将经纱和纬纱垂直交错编织成多维弹力牛仔布，所述的经纱由：棉21s/2+改性涤纶长丝150D，纬纱由：棉21s/2+氨纶(70D莱卡)，密度为84根×42根/寸；
(b)退浆
在每升水中加入BF--7658淀粉酶1g～2g，食盐2g～5g，渗透剂1g～2g，冰醋酸0.5mL～1.5mL和柔软剂0g～2g制成浆料，在pH值为6～7，浴比为1：10～1：15，温度为50℃～60℃的工艺条件下，将牛仔布置于浆料中，使淀粉充分水解；；因牛仔布上通常残留碱，退浆浴中加入醋酸，调节pH值6～7，使BF--7658淀粉酶发挥最佳性能；加入柔软剂是为了使牛仔布在退浆过程中产生条痕；
(c)纤维素酶整理
在整理缸中加入占衣物重量1.0％～1.5％的纤维素酶，控制整理缸内的温度50℃～60℃，pH值为4.5～5.5，每公斤牛仔布加入0～0.5kg浮石，将退浆工序完成后的牛仔布置于整理缸内，整理时间为45min～120min，浴比为1：10～1：15；
(d)烘烤
将纤维素酶整理完成后的牛仔布降温后放去残液，加入冷水清洗去除衣物上残留的碱，然后将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为3％～5％后取出，冷却；
(e)染色
选择需要的花色，通过印花机对牛仔布进行染色印花；
(f)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从印花机内取出并对其再次清洗，清洗完成后置入放有柔软剂的缸内15min～30min，柔软剂和水的比例为1：50～1:100；
(g)烘烤
将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为3％～5％后取出，冷却；
(h)免烫整理
将烘烤完毕的牛仔布放入树脂整理联合机内，在树脂整理联合机内加入LF-2树脂100g/L～130g/L，双氨基有机硅乳液AV-910 40g/L～60g/L，非离子渗透剂2g/L～4g/L，浴比为1：5～1：10，在室温为10min～20min的条件下进行免烫整理。
(i)包装
将免烫整理完成后的牛仔布落布、包装即可入库。
作为本发明的进一步优选，步骤f中的柔软剂为酯基季铵盐柔软剂、脂肪酸酯型柔软剂、右蜡型柔软剂或聚乙烯型柔软剂，纺织品在加工过程中,经多次处理后手感会变得粗糙,一般合成纤维织物更差,尤其是超细纤维织物。为了使织物具有柔软、滑爽、舒适的手感,就需要对其进行整理,应用广泛的是用柔软剂进行整理。
有益效果：本发明提供的一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法，通过退浆去除服装上的浆料，采用生物抛光整理和免烫整理，能够制备出符合要求的牛仔布，效果明显，具有较好实用价值，且工艺节能环保，并且通过采用该方法解决了传统牛仔布颜色单一，布面风格沉闷，无弹力，穿着不够舒适，缺乏视觉冲击力的问题，适应了时代的潮流，提花层体现了时尚的元素。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例，进一步阐明本发明。
本发明提供一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法，该工艺的具体步骤如下：织布-退浆-纤维素酶整理-烘烤-染色-上柔软剂-烘烤-免烫整理-包装。
实施例1
一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法具体步骤如下：
(a)织布
在温度＜25℃，湿度为60％的工艺条件下，将经纱和纬纱垂直交错编织成多维弹力牛仔布，所述的经纱由：棉21s/2+改性涤纶长丝150D，纬纱由：棉21s/2+氨纶(70D莱卡)，密度为84根×42根/寸；
(b)退浆
在每升水中加入BF--7658淀粉酶1g，食盐2g，渗透剂1g和冰醋酸0.5mL制成浆料，在pH值为6，浴比为1：10，温度为50℃的工艺条件下，将牛仔布置于浆料中，使淀粉充分水解；
(c)纤维素酶整理
在整理缸中加入占衣物重量1.0％的纤维素酶，控制整理缸内的温度50℃，pH值为4.5，将退浆工序完成后的牛仔布置于整理缸内，整理时间为45min，浴比为1：10；
(d)烘烤
将纤维素酶整理完成后的牛仔布降温后放去残液，加入冷水清洗去除衣物上残留的碱，然后将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为3％后取出，冷却；
(e)染色
选择需要的花色，通过印花机对牛仔布进行染色印花；
(f)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从印花机内取出并对其再次清洗，清洗完成后置入放有酯基季铵盐柔软剂的缸内15min，柔软剂和水的比例为1：50；
(g)烘烤
将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为3％后取出，冷却；
(h)免烫整理
将烘烤完毕的牛仔布放入树脂整理联合机内，在树脂整理联合机内加入LF-2树脂100g/L，双氨基有机硅乳液AV-910 40g/L，非离子渗透剂2g/L，浴比为1：5，在室温为10min的条件下进行免烫整理。
(i)包装
将免烫整理完成后的牛仔布落布、包装即可入库。
实施例2
一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法具体步骤如下：
(a)织布
在温度＜25℃，湿度为62％的工艺条件下，将经纱和纬纱垂直交错编织成多维弹力牛仔布，所述的经纱由：棉21s/2+改性涤纶长丝150D，纬纱由：棉21s/2+氨纶(70D莱卡)，密度为84根×42根/寸；
(b)退浆
在每升水中加入BF--7658淀粉酶1.2g，食盐3g，渗透剂1.2g，冰醋酸0.8mL和柔软剂1g制成浆料，在pH值为6.5，浴比为1：11，温度为52℃的工艺条件下，将牛仔布置于浆料中，使淀粉充分水解；
(c)纤维素酶整理
在整理缸中加入占衣物重量1.2％的纤维素酶，控制整理缸内的温度55℃，pH值为4.8，每公斤牛仔布加入0.35kg浮石，将退浆工序完成后的牛仔布置于整理缸内，整理时间为60min，浴比为1：12；
(d)烘烤
将纤维素酶整理完成后的牛仔布降温后放去残液，加入冷水清洗去除衣物上残留的碱，然后将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为3.8％后取出，冷却；
(e)染色
选择需要的花色，通过印花机对牛仔布进行染色印花；
(f)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从印花机内取出并对其再次清洗，清洗完成后置入放有脂肪酸酯型柔软剂的缸内20min，柔软剂和水的比例为1：85；
(g)烘烤
将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为4.5％后取出，冷却；
(h)免烫整理
将烘烤完毕的牛仔布放入树脂整理联合机内，在树脂整理联合机内加入LF-2树脂120g/L，双氨基有机硅乳液AV-910 550g/L，非离子渗透剂3.5g/L，浴比为1：8，在室温为16min的条件下进行免烫整理。
(i)包装
将免烫整理完成后的牛仔布落布、包装即可入库。
实施例3
一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法具体步骤如下：
(a)织布
在温度＜25℃，湿度为65％的工艺条件下，将经纱和纬纱垂直交错编织成多维弹力牛仔布，所述的经纱由：棉21s/2+改性涤纶长丝150D，纬纱由：棉21s/2+氨纶(70D莱卡)，密度为84根×42根/寸；
(b)退浆
在每升水中加入BF--7658淀粉酶1.9g，食盐4.5g，渗透剂1.8g，冰醋酸1.3mL和柔软剂1.8g制成浆料，在pH值为6.8，浴比为1：14，温度为58℃的工艺条件下，将牛仔布置于浆料中，使淀粉充分水解；
(c)纤维素酶整理
在整理缸中加入占衣物重量1.4％的纤维素酶，控制整理缸内的温度58℃，pH值为5，每公斤牛仔布加入0.4kg浮石，将退浆工序完成后的牛仔布置于整理缸内，整理时间为100min，浴比为1：14；
(d)烘烤
将纤维素酶整理完成后的牛仔布降温后放去残液，加入冷水清洗去除衣物上残留的碱，然后将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为4.85％后取出，冷却；
(e)染色
选择需要的花色，通过印花机对牛仔布进行染色印花；
(f)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从印花机内取出并对其再次清洗，清洗完成后置入放有右蜡型柔软剂的缸内28min，柔软剂和水的比例为1：90；
(g)烘烤
将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为4.9％后取出，冷却；
(h)免烫整理
将烘烤完毕的牛仔布放入树脂整理联合机内，在树脂整理联合机内加入LF-2树脂120g/L，双氨基有机硅乳液AV-910 55g/L，非离子渗透剂3.8g/L，浴比为1：8，在室温为18min的条件下进行免烫整理。
(i)包装
将免烫整理完成后的牛仔布落布、包装即可入库。
实施例4
一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法具体步骤如下：
(a)织布
在温度＜25℃，湿度为70％的工艺条件下，将经纱和纬纱垂直交错编织成多维弹力牛仔布，所述的经纱由：棉21s/2+改性涤纶长丝150D，纬纱由：棉21s/2+氨纶(70D莱卡)，密度为84根×42根/寸；
(b)退浆
在每升水中加入BF--7658淀粉酶2g，食盐5g，渗透剂2g，冰醋酸1.5mL和柔软剂2g制成浆料，在pH值为7，浴比为1：15，温度为60℃的工艺条件下，将牛仔布置于浆料中，使淀粉充分水解；
(c)纤维素酶整理
在整理缸中加入占衣物重量1.5％的纤维素酶，控制整理缸内的温度60℃，pH值为5.5，每公斤牛仔布加入0.5kg浮石，将退浆工序完成后的牛仔布置于整理缸内，整理时间为120min，浴比为1：15；
(d)烘烤
将纤维素酶整理完成后的牛仔布降温后放去残液，加入冷水清洗去除衣物上残留的碱，然后将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为5％后取出，冷却；
(e)染色
选择需要的花色，通过印花机对牛仔布进行染色印花；
(f)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从印花机内取出并对其再次清洗，清洗完成后置入放有聚乙烯型柔软剂的缸内30min，柔软剂和水的比例为1:100；
(g)烘烤
将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为5％后取出，冷却；
(h)免烫整理
将烘烤完毕的牛仔布放入树脂整理联合机内，在树脂整理联合机内加入LF-2树脂130g/L，双氨基有机硅乳液AV-910 60g/L，非离子渗透剂4g/L，浴比为1：10，在室温为20min的条件下进行免烫整理。
(i)包装
将免烫整理完成后的牛仔布落布、包装即可入库。
上述具体实施方式只为说明本发明的技术构思及特点，其目的是让熟悉该技术领域的技术人员能够了解本发明的内容并据以实施，并不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。凡根据本发明精神实质所做出的等同变换或修饰，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (2)

1.一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法，其特征在于：该工艺的具体步骤如下：
(a)织布
在温度＜25℃，湿度为60％～70％的工艺条件下，将经纱和纬纱垂直交错编织成多维弹力牛仔布，所述的经纱由：棉21s/2+改性涤纶长丝150D，纬纱由：棉21s/2+氨纶(70D莱卡)，密度为84根×42根/寸；
(b)退浆
在每升水中加入BF--7658淀粉酶1g～2g，食盐2g～5g，渗透剂1g～2g，冰醋酸0.5mL～1.5mL和柔软剂0g～2g制成浆料，在pH值为6～7，浴比为1：10～1：15，温度为50℃～60℃的工艺条件下，将牛仔布置于浆料中，使淀粉充分水解；
(c)纤维素酶整理
在整理缸中加入占衣物重量1.0％～1.5％的纤维素酶，控制整理缸内的温度50℃～60℃，pH值为4.5～5.5，每公斤牛仔布加入0～0.5kg浮石，将退浆工序完成后的牛仔布置于整理缸内，整理时间为45min～120min，浴比为1：10～1：15；
(d)烘烤
将纤维素酶整理完成后的牛仔布降温后放去残液，加入冷水清洗去除衣物上残留的碱，然后将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为3％～5％后取出，冷却；
(e)染色
选择需要的花色，通过印花机对牛仔布进行染色印花；
(f)上柔软剂
将牛仔布从印花机内取出并对其再次清洗，清洗完成后置入放有柔软剂的缸内15min～30min，柔软剂和水的比例为1：50～1:100；
(g)烘烤
将清洗完成后的牛仔布放入烘箱内烘烤，直至牛仔布的含水率为3％～5％后取出，冷却；
(h)免烫整理
将烘烤完毕的牛仔布放入树脂整理联合机内，在树脂整理联合机内加入LF-2树脂100g/L～130g/L，双氨基有机硅乳液AV-910 40g/L～60g/L，非离子渗透剂2g/L～4g/L，浴比为1：5～1：10，在室温为10min～20min的条件下进行免烫整理。
(i)包装
将免烫整理完成后的牛仔布落布、包装即可入库。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种多维弹力牛仔布的环保染色方法，其特征在于：步骤f中的柔软剂为酯基季铵盐柔软剂、脂肪酸酯型柔软剂、右蜡型柔软剂或聚乙烯型柔软剂。
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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101063246A (zh) * 2006-04-25 2007-10-31 王俊平 一种多维弹力牛仔布的生产方法
CN104594053A (zh) * 2013-11-01 2015-05-06 青岛鑫益发工贸有限公司 牛仔成衣环保染色工艺
CN105803800A (zh) * 2016-05-17 2016-07-27 太仓市钱泾化纤厂 一种提花牛仔布的环保染色方法

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101063246A (zh) * 2006-04-25 2007-10-31 王俊平 一种多维弹力牛仔布的生产方法
CN104594053A (zh) * 2013-11-01 2015-05-06 青岛鑫益发工贸有限公司 牛仔成衣环保染色工艺
CN105803800A (zh) * 2016-05-17 2016-07-27 太仓市钱泾化纤厂 一种提花牛仔布的环保染色方法

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