CN107217471A - 鑫纶t3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，包括顺序的翻布、缝头、退浆、汽蒸、定型、染色、还原清洗、整理拉幅；退浆步骤中，配置退浆溶液成分包含烧碱15‑20g/L，精练剂6‑8g/L，渗透剂4.5‑6g/L，打卷堆置后，在88‑95℃热水中进行浸洗；汽蒸步骤中，配置汽蒸溶液成分包含烧碱9.2‑11g/L，精练剂1.5‑2.8g/L，渗透剂1.6‑2.6g/L，溶液温度88‑91℃，汽蒸温度99‑104℃，汽蒸时间80‑100秒，然后经过88‑91℃热水浸洗。使得最终的成品布料染色均匀，布卷间色差小，光泽好，弹性稳定，色牢度高，产品质量稳定，适宜大批量生产。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于纺织技术领域，特别涉及一种鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺。
背景技术
鑫纶T-3000纤维是新型聚醚脂复合弹弹性纤维，该产品具优异的弹性和弹性回复率、手感柔软、耐日晒耐氯漂、吸湿快干性良好。加工成鑫纶T3000与涤纶低弹丝交织布面料后，具有二种纤维的优点，具有强度高、伸度好等特点，膨松柔软，手感丰满，外形挺括；高回弹且弹性持久稳定，纬向弹性达20％；只需150℃定型，低碳环保；吸湿快干，30分钟内芯吸高度达20cm；色牢度高，耐氯漂不泛黄；布面平整滑爽，抗皱免烫，尺寸稳定，耐磨损，抗起毛起球，防尘抗静电，穿着后具有冰爽感，具有光泽效果，服用性舒适，价格适中，是一种新型功能性的纺织面料。该产品的问世，解决了原来氨纶弹力织物的弱点和不足，例如后整理怕氯漂、不好定型、弹性不稳定、弹性过剩、易起皱卷边等等。鑫纶T3000与DTY交织布性能优异，可应用于户外运动服装、休闲服、时装、工装的新型面料，其未来市场前景广阔。
初期面世的鑫纶T3000纤维产品多为针织布，采用浸染工艺，产品缸差大，色牢差，品质不一致，易擦伤，布面光泽性差；聚醚酯的软化点为197-202度，因此鑫纶T3000不耐高温，否则弹力受损；鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布面滑爽，若有擦伤印，很难消除。这些现实问题，都严重制约了鑫纶T3000与涤纶低弹丝交织布面料在更大范围的推广应用。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于：针对上述存在的问题，提出了鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，采取轧碱打卷退浆，用低温型分散染料和低温焙烘固色，采用性能优异的匀染剂防止色花；使得最终的成品布料染色均匀，布卷间色差小，光泽好，弹性稳定，色牢度高，产品质量稳定，适宜大批量生产。
本发明技术的技术方案是这样实现的：一种鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，包括顺序的翻布、缝头、退浆、汽蒸、定型、染色、还原清洗、整理拉幅；其中退浆步骤和汽蒸步骤分别为：
退浆步骤：配置退浆溶液成分包含烧碱15-20g/L，精练剂6-8g/L，渗透剂4.5-6g/L；打卷堆置后，在88-95℃热水中进行浸洗；
汽蒸步骤：配置汽蒸溶液成分包含烧碱9.2-11g/L，精练剂1.5-2.8g/L，渗透剂1.6-2.6g/L，溶液温度88-91℃；汽蒸温度99-104℃，汽蒸时间80-100秒，然后经过88-95℃热水浸洗。
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，退浆步骤中，退浆溶液成分还包含双氧水11-13.5g/L，稳定剂7.5-8.5g/L，除油剂4.5-5g/L，螯合分散剂3.8-5g/L；保持退浆溶液温度为23-26℃，打卷堆置18-20小时后，在90-94℃的热水中浸洗。
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，退浆步骤中，退浆溶液成分包含烧碱16-18g/L，精练剂6.5-7.5g/L，渗透剂4.8-5.5g/L；保持退浆溶液温度为90-92℃，打卷堆置3.8-4.2小时。
坯布所含浆料主要为PVA浆，退浆水洗温度要高，便于去除浆料。生产过程中，织物堆积在布箱里易产生压皱印，所以生产过程中，下机布都要上卷，防止压皱印而致布面染色花。退浆下机布面质量效果要求：布面平整、无擦伤印、无卷边，门幅一致，30分钟毛效20cm。
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，汽蒸步骤中，汽蒸溶液成分包含烧碱9.5-10g/L，精练剂1.8-2.3g/L，渗透剂1.8-2.3g/L，溶液温度89-90℃；汽蒸温度100-102℃，汽蒸时间85-95秒，然后经过90-94℃热水浸洗。经过汽蒸，布面浆料溶胀，较易洗下来。布料不得在蒸箱网床上堆置，防止擦伤和皱折。
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，定型步骤中，定型温度150-160℃，持续时间28-33秒。聚醚酯的软化点为197-202度，DTY/鑫纶T3000交织布定型温度控制在150℃-160℃，温度低了则皱条去除不了，温度高了则影响布面弹力和手感。定型后布面效果要求布面平整无皱条，弹性佳，纬向缩率-5％
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，染色步骤中，配置的染色液包括防泳移剂SL9.5-10.8g/L，醋酸0.8-1g/L；染色后，依次通过三节预烘和焙烘进行定色，其中三节预烘温度分别为59-62℃、80-82℃、89-92℃，焙烘温度为175-185℃，焙烘时间88-95秒。
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，染色步骤中，配置的染色液包括防泳移剂SL10-10.8g/L，醋酸0.85-1g/L；三节预烘温度分别为60-62℃、80-82℃、90-92℃，焙烘温度为180-183℃，焙烘时间90-93秒。
因鑫纶T3000不耐高温，焙烘温度需要控制在175℃-185℃之间，太高则严重影响布面弹力和手感，太低则会影响分散染料的上染率。染料选用低温型分散染料和中温型分散染料，不适宜用高温型染料，否则影响上染率。染深色时，要加强皂洗，要用分散能力强的皂洗剂，防止色牢度不合格。
染色后布面效果要求：布面色泽均匀，左中右色差4-5级，弹性佳，纬向缩率-4.5％。
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，还原清洗步骤中，配置清洗剂成分包含烧碱19-21.5g/L，保险粉19.5-22g/L，然后依次在温度100-103℃的蒸箱进行还原，通过60-68秒的汽蒸后，在93-96℃温度下进行皂洗。
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，整理拉幅步骤中，整理配方包含排汗剂XP48-51.5g/L，亲水柔软剂19.5-22.5g/L，拉幅温度为150-160℃，拉幅烘干时间28-35秒。拉幅温度不能超过160℃，防止破坏弹力；为保持面料的吸湿快干性，应用亲水性柔软剂；拉幅后布面效果要求布面柔软挺括，冰爽光亮，弹性佳，门幅一致。
本发明所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，染色液中防泳移剂SL为丙烯酸共聚物。
防泳移剂SL是我公司自行生产复配的新型分散染料轧染用防泳移剂，对分散染料上染聚醚酯弹性纤维和涤纶低弹丝防泳移性能比较好，使布面匀染性好，用量少，不粘辊，不降低染色深度，不影响染色色光，特别适合应用于聚醚酯弹性纤维染色。
本发明的有益效果为：采取轧碱打卷退浆，用低温型分散染料和低温焙烘固色，采用性能优异的匀染剂防止色花；使得最终的成品布料染色均匀，布卷间色差小，光泽好，弹性稳定，色牢度高，产品质量稳定，适宜大批量生产。
具体实施方式
为了使本发明的目的、技术方案及优点更加清楚明白，以下结合实施例，对本发明技术进行进一步详细说明。应当理解，此处所描述的具体实施例仅仅用以解释本发明，并不用于限定本发明。
实施例1：
中深色的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，该工艺流程顺序为：翻布-缝头-退浆-汽蒸-定型-染色-还原清洗-整理拉幅
退浆方案：烧碱15g/L，精练剂6g/L，渗透剂5g/L；溶液温度90℃，打卷堆置4小时，90℃热水洗。
汽蒸方案：烧碱10g/L，精练剂2g/L，渗透剂2g/L；溶液温度90℃，汽蒸温度102℃，汽蒸时间90秒，90℃热水洗。
定型方案：温度150℃，时间30秒。
染色方案：染色液包含防泳移剂SL10g/L，醋酸1g/L。三节预烘箱温度60℃、80℃、90℃，焙烘温度180℃，焙烘时间90秒。三节预烘箱逐步升温，防止染花；选用在180℃固色的低温型分散染料染色，并优选色牢度好的染料，确保上染率和色牢度。防泳移剂SL为优选的分散染料匀染剂，对于鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织布的匀染有较好效果。
还原清洗方案：烧碱20g/L，保险粉20g/L；还原蒸箱温度102℃，汽蒸时间60秒，皂洗温度95℃。
整理拉幅方案：吸湿排汗剂XP50g/L，亲水柔软剂20g/L。温度150℃，时间30秒。
实施例2：
浅色的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，该工艺流程顺序为：翻布-缝头-退浆-汽蒸-定型-染色-还原清洗-整理拉幅。
退浆方案：烧碱20g/L，双氧水12g/L，精练剂8g/L，渗透剂5g/L，稳定剂8g/L，除油剂5g/L，螯合分散剂4g/L。溶液常温，打卷堆置20小时，90℃热水洗。
汽蒸方案：烧碱10.5g/L，精练剂2.5g/L，渗透剂2.5g/L；溶液温度91℃，汽蒸温度100℃，汽蒸时间100秒，90℃热水洗。
定型方案：温度150℃，时间33秒。
染色方案：染色液包含防泳移剂SL10.5g/L，醋酸1g/L。三节预烘箱温度61℃、81℃、91℃，焙烘温度180℃，焙烘时间93秒。
还原清洗方案：烧碱21g/L，保险粉21g/L；还原蒸箱温度103℃，汽蒸时间63秒，皂洗温度96℃。
整理拉幅方案：吸湿排汗剂XP51g/L，亲水柔软剂22g/L；温度155℃，时间33秒。
产品结果分析：
表1为相关测试方法说明。
表1 测试方法
| 测试项目 | 测试方法 |
| 耐干磨檫牢度 | ISO 105X12-2001纺织品耐摩擦色牢度测试方法 |
| 耐湿磨檫牢度 | ISO 105X12-2001纺织品耐摩擦色牢度测试方法 |
| 耐皂洗牢度沾色 | ISO 105D01-2010纺织品耐皂洗色牢度测试方法 |
| 耐皂洗牢度变色 | ISO 105D01-2010纺织品耐皂洗色牢度测试方法 |
| 耐汗渍牢度沾色 | ISO 105E04-2008纺织品耐汗渍色牢度测试方法 |
| 耐汗渍牢度变色 | ISO 105E04-2008纺织品耐汗渍色牢度测试方法 |
| 经向断裂强力 | ISO13934-1-1999纺织品断裂强力测试方法 |
| 纬向断裂强力 | ISO13934-1-1999纺织品断裂强力测试方法 |
| 经向撕破强力 | ISO13937-1-2004纺织品撕破强力测试方法 |
| 纬向撕破强力 | ISO13937-1-2004纺织品撕破强力测试方法 |
| 经向缩水率 | GB/T426-1978印染布缩水率试验方法 |
| 纬向缩水率 | GB/T426-1978印染布缩水率试验方法 |
| 抗起毛起球 | ISO12945-2-2000纺织品织物表面起球和起毛的测试方法 |
| 毛效 | FZ/T01071-2008纺织品毛效效应的测试方法 |
表2是DTY/鑫纶T3000 150D＊150D/38＊34.5规格的5批次不同颜色的斜纹布料的生产成品各项色牢度检验报告，表3是5批次成品相关的各项物理指标值。
表2 成品各项色牢度检验报告
表3 生产成品各项物理指标
从表中看出，鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺成品色牢度、抗起毛起球、吸水性、断裂强力、撕裂强力都较好。
总体来说，鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织布用烧碱退浆效果好，水洗不易起皱；150度定型能去皱，且保持较好的弹性和上染性；染色采用低温型或中温型分散染料，选择180度低温焙烘，上染性好，色牢度好，耐氯漂；成品布不易起毛起球，布身强力好，光亮滑爽柔和，吸湿排汗，弹性佳。因经纱和纬纱二种纤维上染率不一样，导致正反面有轻微阴阳色差。该产品适宜采用平幅连续染整工艺生产，但各工序下机布要上卷，防止压皱印。鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织布性能优异，连续染整工艺的研究，有助于开发这款新型面料，扩大生产规模，抢占市场空间。
以上所述仅为本发明的较佳实施例而已，并不用以限制本发明，凡在本发明的精神和原则之内所作的任何修改、等同替换和改进等，均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (10)
1.一种鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，包括工序的翻布、缝头、退浆、汽蒸、定型、染色、还原清洗、整理拉幅，其特征在于：
退浆步骤：配置退浆溶液成分包含烧碱15-20g/L精练剂6-8g/L，渗透剂4.5-6g/L；打卷堆置后，在88-95℃热水中进行浸洗；
汽蒸步骤：配置汽蒸溶液成分包含烧碱9.2-11g/L，精练剂1.5-2.8g/L，渗透剂1.6-2.6g/L，溶液温度88-91℃；汽蒸温度99-104℃，汽蒸时间80-100秒，然后经过88-95℃热水浸洗。
2.根据权利要求1所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：退浆步骤中，退浆溶液成分还包含双氧水11-13.5g/L，稳定剂7.5-8.5g/L，除油剂4.5-5g/L，螯合分散剂3.8-5g/L；保持退浆溶液温度为23-26℃，打卷堆置18-20小时后，在90-94℃的热水中浸洗。
3.根据权利要求1所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：退浆步骤中，退浆溶液成分包含烧碱16-18g/L，精练剂6.5-7.5g/L，渗透剂4.8-5.5g/L；保持退浆溶液温度为90-92℃，打卷堆置3.8-4.2小时。
4.根据权利要求1所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：汽蒸步骤中，汽蒸溶液成分包含烧碱9.5-10g/L，精练剂1.8-2.3g/L，渗透剂1.8-2.3g/L，溶液温度89-90℃；汽蒸温度100-102℃，汽蒸时间85-95秒，然后经过90-94℃热水浸洗。
5.根据权利要求1所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：定型步骤中，定型温度150-160℃，持续时间28-33秒。
6.根据权利要求1所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：染色步骤中，配置的染色液包括防泳移剂SL9.5-10.8g/L，醋酸0.8-1g/L；染色后，依次通过三节预烘和焙烘进行定色，其中三节预烘温度分别为59-62℃、80-82℃、89-92℃，焙烘温度为175-185℃，焙烘时间88-95秒。
7.根据权利要求6所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：染色步骤中，配置的染色液包括防泳移剂SL10-10.8g/L，醋酸0.85-1g/L；三节预烘温度分别为60-62℃、80-82℃、90-92℃，焙烘温度为180-183℃，焙烘时间90-93秒。
8.根据权利要求1所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：还原清洗步骤中，配置清洗剂成分包含烧碱19-21.5g/L，保险粉19.5-22g/L，然后依次在温度100-103℃的蒸箱进行还原，通过60-68秒的汽蒸后，在93-96℃温度下进行皂洗。
9.根据权利要求1所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：整理拉幅步骤中，整理配方包含排汗剂XP48-51.5g/L，亲水柔软剂19.5-22.5g/L，拉幅温度为150-160℃，拉幅烘干时间28-35秒。
10.根据权利要求6所述的鑫纶T3000/涤纶低弹丝交织梭织布连续染整工艺，其特征在于：染色液中防泳移剂SL为丙烯酸共聚物。
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