CN106726923B - Cosmetic additive, preparation method thereof and cosmetic containing cosmetic additive - Google Patents
Cosmetic additive, preparation method thereof and cosmetic containing cosmetic additive Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
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Abstract
The invention provides a cosmetic additive, a preparation method thereof and a cosmetic containing the cosmetic additive. The cosmetic additive comprises: mulberry bark extract, pomegranate flower extract, chamomile extract and cherry leaf essence. The components of the cosmetic additive are plant extracts, so that the cosmetic additive is safe and has small irritation; can inhibit the formation of melanin at different stages, has synergistic effect on the inhibition of melanin, slows down the deposition of melanin, and improves the whitening effect. The cosmetic additive also has anti-allergy effect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cosmetic additive, a preparation method thereof and cosmetics containing the cosmetic additive, and belongs to the field of cosmetics.
Background
Facial pigmentation is a skin problem of great concern. Chloasma, freckles and melanin deposits affect the appearance, thereby causing troubles to people. Whitening additives can reduce melanin deposition or reduce skin color, and chinese women are increasingly pursuing fair skin, so that the demand of whitening cosmetics is continuously increasing.
Most of the existing whitening additives in the prior art are organic compounds, and the substances have irritation to skin, large side effect, increased harm to human bodies and reduced safety factor; in addition, a single plant extract is also adopted as a whitening additive, but the plant extract has a single whitening component, a single action mechanism and an unobvious whitening effect.
Patent application document CN101904809A discloses a whitening composition containing cortex mori extract, chamomile extract, rhodiola rosea extract, grape seed extract, licorice extract, morus alba extract, arbutin, kojic acid dipalmitate, niacinamide, tetrahydrocurcumin, a humectant and a preservative, which can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase to some extent, thereby blocking melanin transport and inhibiting melanin formation. But it contains the organic compound nicotinamide, which is harmful to human body.
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The invention provides a cosmetic additive, a preparation method thereof and a cosmetic containing the cosmetic additive. The cosmetic additive disclosed by the invention is natural and safe, has small irritation, and can inhibit the formation of melanin at different stages, so that a synergistic effect is generated on the inhibition of the melanin.
Means for solving the problems
The present invention provides a cosmetic additive comprising: mulberry bark extract, pomegranate flower extract, chamomile extract and cherry leaf essence.
The cosmetic additive provided by the invention is characterized in that the weight percentage of the cortex mori radicis extract is 20-40%, preferably 30-40%, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive.
The cosmetic additive according to the present invention, wherein the weight percentage of the pomegranate flower extract is 10-30%, preferably 10-20%, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive.
The cosmetic additive according to the present invention, wherein the weight percentage of the chamomile extract is 20 to 40%, preferably 30 to 40%, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive.
The cosmetic additive comprises, by weight, 10-30% of cherry leaf essence, preferably 10-20% of cherry leaf essence.
The cosmetic additive also contains one or two of oldenlandia diffusa extract and lychee shell extract; preferably, the oldenlandia diffusa extract accounts for 5-20% of the weight of the cosmetic additive, and preferably 5-10% of the weight of the cosmetic additive; the weight percentage of the lychee shell extract is 5-20%; preferably 5 to 10%.
The cosmetic additive further comprises a preservative, preferably, the preservative comprises one or more of methyl hydroxybenzoate, phenoxyethanol, pentanediol, benzoic acid and propyl hydroxybenzoate, and more preferably one or two of methyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol; preferably, the preservative is added in an amount of 0.02-5% by weight of the cosmetic additive; more preferably, the addition amount of the methyl hydroxybenzoate in the preservative is 0.01-2%, and preferably 0.01-1%; the addition amount of the phenoxyethanol is 0.01-5%, preferably 0.01-3%.
The present invention also provides a method for preparing a cosmetic additive according to the present invention, comprising: a step of mixing the components of the cosmetic additive.
The present invention also provides a cosmetic product comprising the cosmetic additive according to the present invention, preferably in an amount of 5 to 20%, preferably 8 to 16%.
The cosmetic according to the present invention includes a skin cream, a skin lotion, a moisturizing lotion, a skin essence, a cleansing milk, or an eye essence.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The components of the cosmetic additive are plant extracts, so that the cosmetic additive is safe and has small irritation; can inhibit the formation of melanin at different stages, thereby having synergistic effect on the inhibition of melanin, slowing down the deposition of melanin and improving the whitening effect. The cosmetic additive also has anti-allergy effect.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity by the skin lotions, skin lotions and skin creams of the application examples 1 to 6 and the application comparative examples 1 to 3.
Detailed Description
The present invention provides a cosmetic additive comprising: mulberry bark extract, pomegranate flower extract, chamomile extract and cherry leaf essence.
Cortex Mori is root bark of Morus alba L of Moraceae except for cortex emboli. The cortex mori contains flavonoids, such as: morusin, moricene, morinone, morinol, flavanone morinone, morinol, morusin, cyclomori, morusin, hydroxychromene, dihydromorusin-4-glucoside, etc.; coumarins, for example: 5, 7-hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, scopoletin, etc.; polysaccharides, for example: mucin, mulberry polysaccharide, chitin, chitosan, etc.; other classes of compounds, for example: butanol, morin (A, B, C, D, F, G), ethyl 3, 4-dihydroxybenzoate, mulberry bark furan, betulinic acid, sitosterol, tannin, volatile oil, etc.
The cosmetic additive contains the white mulberry root-bark extract, can extremely inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in the process of forming melanin through chelation, and can block the synthesis of the melanin; can effectively capture hydroxyl free radicals and superoxide anion free radicals, thereby inhibiting the generation of melanin, whitening skin, reducing wrinkles and delaying skin aging. The weight percentage of the cortex mori radicis extract is 20-40%, preferably 30-40%, calculated by the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive. When the weight percentage of the cortex mori radicis extract is less than 20%, the activity of tyrosinase cannot be effectively inhibited; when the weight percentage of the cortex mori radicis extract is higher than 40%, the addition amount is too large, so that the cost is high, and the inhibition effect on tyrosinase cannot be further improved.
In addition, the cortex mori extract disclosed by the invention also enables the cosmetic additive to have a moisturizing effect, can adjust the balance of water and oil metabolism, maintain the moisture content and the moisture locking factor of the skin, and form a moisturizing film on the surface of the skin to keep the skin smooth and moist.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the cortex mori extract, which comprises the following steps:
soaking the pulverized cortex Mori in ethanol solution to obtain soaking solution;
concentrating the soak solution, centrifuging, and taking supernatant;
and (3) putting the supernatant into an active carbon column, eluting with water and/or ethanol, collecting the eluent, and drying to obtain the cortex mori radicis extract. Specifically, the preparation method of the cortex mori extract comprises the following steps:
pulverizing cortex Mori, adding 10-30% ethanol 6-15 times of cortex Mori, and soaking for 2-4 times (each for 2-4 hr) to obtain soaking solution;
concentrating the soak solution under reduced pressure, centrifuging, and taking supernatant;
loading the supernatant onto activated carbon column, eluting with water at 30-50 deg.C until the water eluate is clear, eluting with 10-30% ethanol, and collecting the ethanol eluate;
concentrating the alcohol eluate at 50-70 deg.C under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain cortex Mori extract.
The pomegranate flower extract is derived from dried petals of pomegranate (Punicaceae, Punica L.) belonging to Punica of Punicaceae. The pomegranate flower at least contains 21 chemical elements. Besides containing various elements, the active ingredients thereof mainly include polyphenolic compounds, such as: punicic acid (pomearate); a flavonoid compound; triterpenoids, for example: oleanolic Acid (OA) and the like.
The pomegranate flower extract is adopted, so that the cosmetic additive can inhibit the activity of dopa oxidase in the melanin formation process and prevent dopa from being converted into dopaquinone, and the formation of melanin in the skin is further slowed down. The weight percentage of the pomegranate flower extract is 10-30%, preferably 10-20%, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive. When the weight percentage of the pomegranate flower extract is less than 10%, the activity of dopa oxidase cannot be effectively inhibited; when the weight percentage of the pomegranate flower extract is higher than 30%, the content of the pomegranate flower extract is too high, which increases the production cost, and also does not further inhibit the activity of dopa oxidase.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the pomegranate flower extract, which comprises the following steps:
crushing pomegranate flowers, placing the crushed pomegranate flowers in a reactor, and adding ethanol for soaking;
and (4) filtering after reflux extraction, and drying to obtain the pomegranate flower extract.
Specifically, the preparation method of the pomegranate flower extract comprises the following steps:
pulverizing flos Granati, placing in a reactor, adding 40-60% ethanol 5-20 times of flos Granati, stirring for 2-4 days, heating in water bath to 55-75 deg.C, reflux extracting for 2-4 hr, filtering, concentrating the filtrate at 45-65 deg.C under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain flos Granati extract.
Chamomile is a plant of the family asteraceae, which is rich in flavonoids, such as: apigenin; also comprises endothelin antagonist. Therefore, the chamomile extract added into the cosmetic additive has the effects of soothing the sensitive skin, repairing the sensitive skin, reducing fine red blood filaments, reducing redness, adjusting uneven skin color and the like, and can also inhibit the proliferation of melanocytes and reduce uneven pigment distribution by inhibiting the actions of activating tyrosinase by endothelin and promoting the differentiation of melanocytes by the endothelin.
The weight percentage of the chamomile extract is 20-40%, preferably 30-40%, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive. When the weight percentage of the chamomile extract is less than 20%, the extract cannot effectively inhibit endothelin from activating tyrosinase, and cannot effectively inhibit the action of endothelin for promoting the differentiation of melanocytes; when the weight percentage of the chamomile extract is more than 40%, the production cost is increased, and the effect of inhibiting the endothelin-activated tyrosinase cannot be enhanced.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the chamomile extract, which comprises the following steps:
placing chamomile in a reactor, and adding water for soaking;
adding the soaked chamomile into a reactor, adding water, slowly heating to boil, and performing reflux extraction to obtain a chamomile extract.
Specifically, the preparation method of the chamomile extract comprises the following steps: placing chamomile in a container, soaking for 2 hours in water, adding the soaked chamomile into a reactor, adding water which is 2-6 times of the weight of the chamomile, slowly heating to boil, and performing reflux extraction for 2-6 hours to obtain a chamomile extract.
The cosmetic additive contains cherry leaf essence, can make skin white and transparent, and is helpful for improving skin texture. Tyrosinase is a key substance for starting melanin synthesis, and an active substance extracted and purified from oriental cherry leaves can inhibit melanin from being transported to keratinocytes from melanocytes, so that epidermal melanin is reduced, and a whitening effect is achieved. The cosmetic additive can effectively improve the skin texture of the epidermis and enables the skin to be clean, transparent and smooth. The amino acid in the oriental cherry leaves moisturizes and assists the generation of collagen in epidermis, keeps the skin plump and elastic, improves the skin protection function and resists external invasion.
The cherry leaf essence accounts for 10-30 wt%, preferably 10-20 wt% of the cosmetic additive. When the weight percentage of the cherry leaf essence is below 10%, the transfer of melanin from melanocyte to keratinocyte cannot be effectively inhibited; when the weight percentage of the cherry leaf essence is more than 30%, the production cost is increased.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the cherry leaf essence, which comprises the following steps:
placing oriental cherry leaves in a reactor, and adding ethanol for soaking;
and (4) filtering after reflux extraction, and drying to obtain cherry leaf essence.
Specifically, the preparation method of the cherry leaf essence comprises the following steps:
pulverizing folium Pruni Pseudocerasi, placing in a reactor, adding 40-60% ethanol 10-30 times the weight of folium Pruni Pseudocerasi, stirring for 2-4 days, heating in water bath to 55-75 deg.C, reflux extracting for 2-4 hr, filtering, concentrating the filtrate at 45-65 deg.C under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain folium Pruni Pseudocerasi essence.
The cosmetic additive can also contain one or two of oldenlandia diffusa extract and lychee shell extract.
Oldenlandia diffusa is a herbaceous plant of the genus oldenlandia of the family rubiaceae, and in the cosmetic additive of the present invention, an extract of dried oldenlandia diffusa is used. The oldenlandia diffusa extract added into the cosmetic additive can inhibit the activity of B-16 melanocytes and enhance the oxidation resistance of the cosmetic additive, thereby achieving the effect of whitening skin. Which can act synergistically with other components of the present invention to further inhibit tyrosinase activity.
The weight percentage of the oldenlandia diffusa extract is 5-20%, preferably 5-10%, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive. When the weight percentage of the oldenlandia diffusa extract is below 5%, the effective inhibition effect on the activity of B-16 melanocyte cannot be generated; when the weight percentage of the oldenlandia diffusa extract is more than 20%, the production cost is seriously increased.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the oldenlandia diffusa extract, which comprises the following steps:
placing oldenlandia diffusa in a reactor, and adding ethanol for soaking;
extracting under reflux, filtering, and drying to obtain herba Hedyotidis Diffusae extract.
Specifically, the preparation method of the oldenlandia diffusa extract comprises the following steps:
pulverizing herba Hedyotidis Diffusae, placing in a reactor, adding 5-20 times of 30-60% ethanol, stirring for 1-2 days, heating in water bath to 55-75 deg.C, reflux extracting for 2-4 hr, filtering, concentrating the filtrate at 45-65 deg.C under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain herba Hedyotidis Diffusae extract.
The lychee shell extract disclosed by the invention contains rich plant polyphenols such as flavone, procyanidine, phloretin and the like, so that the cosmetic additive has a good antioxidation effect, the activity of tyrosinase can be inhibited, and the whitening effect of the cosmetic additive is further realized. The weight percentage of the lychee shell extract is 5-20%, preferably 5-10% calculated by the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive. When the weight percentage of the lychee shell extract is less than 5%, the activity of tyrosinase can not be effectively inhibited; when the weight percentage of the lychee shell extract is more than 20%, the production cost is high, and the cosmetic additive is thick.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the lychee shell extract, which comprises the following steps:
placing litchi shell powder into a reactor, and adding ethanol for soaking;
and (3) after reflux extraction, removing impurities and a solvent to obtain a paste litchi shell extract.
Specifically, the preparation method of the lychee shell extract comprises the following steps:
weighing litchi shell powder with a certain mass, adding ethanol solution with the mass fraction of 40-60% and the weight of 5-20 times of that of the litchi shell powder, heating and refluxing for 2-4 hours at 60-70 ℃, placing reaction liquid at room temperature, centrifuging for 5-15 minutes at 8000-.
In addition, the lychee shell extract can be dissolved in a certain amount of water when in use, and is centrifuged for 5-15 minutes at 8000-12000 rpm to obtain a clear liquid, and the clear liquid can be added into cosmetic additives for use.
Pathways due to melanin formation include: tyrosine → dopa → dopaquinone → dopachrome → dihydroxyindoleacid → melanin oligomer → melanin, and the produced melanin is transported from the dendrite of melanocyte to keratinocyte. By adding the mulberry bark extract, the pomegranate flower extract, the chamomile extract and the cherry leaf essence, a synergistic effect is generated, and the formation of melanin can be inhibited in multiple stages. In addition, the cosmetic additive of the invention can also contain one or two of oldenlandia diffusa extract and lychee shell extract. Thereby further producing synergistic effect with the mulberry bark extract, the pomegranate flower extract, the chamomile extract and the cherry leaf essence to inhibit melanin.
Specifically, the present invention can reduce the formation of melanin at the root by adding the extract of cortex mori radicis according to the melanin formation pathway; the activity of dopa oxidase can be inhibited by adding pomegranate flower extract, so that the conversion of dopa into dopaquinone is reduced; the chamomile extract is added to inhibit the combination of endothelin and melanin cell membranes so as to inhibit the proliferation of melanin cells; the addition of cherry leaf essence can inhibit the transfer of melanin from melanocyte to keratinocyte, and reduce the expression of epidermal melanin. Furthermore, the content of melanin is reduced by adding herba Hedyotidis Diffusae extract to inhibit B-16 melanocyte activity, and tyrosinase activity is further inhibited by adding exocarpium litchi extract.
In addition, the cosmetic additive of the present invention may not contain organic compounds, such as: since the cosmetic additive of the present invention does not contain a whitening compound which is irritating to the skin, such as niacinamide, the cosmetic additive of the present invention is less irritating to the skin.
The cosmetic additive further comprises a preservative, preferably, the preservative comprises one or more of methyl hydroxybenzoate, phenoxyethanol, pentanediol, benzoic acid and propyl hydroxybenzoate, and more preferably one or two of methyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol;
preferably, the preservative is added in an amount of 0.02-5% by weight of the cosmetic additive, more preferably, the amount of methylparaben added in the preservative is 0.01-2%, preferably 0.01-1%; the addition amount of the phenoxyethanol is 0.01-5%, preferably 0.01-3%.
In addition, the water in the present invention may be distilled water, redistilled water, deionized water, or the like.
The present invention also provides a method for preparing a cosmetic additive according to the present invention, characterized by comprising: a step of mixing the components of the cosmetic additive.
The present invention also provides a cosmetic product comprising a cosmetic additive according to the present invention.
The cosmetic according to the present invention, wherein the cosmetic additive is added in an amount of 5 to 20%, preferably 8 to 16%.
The cosmetic according to the present invention comprises, among others, a skin cream, a skin lotion, a moisturizer, a skin essence, a cleansing milk, or an eye essence.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
In an embodiment, the preparation method of the cortex mori extract comprises the following steps: pulverizing 100g of cortex Mori, adding 900g of 15% ethanol, soaking for 3 times (3 hr each time), and mixing the three extractive solutions to obtain soaking solution; concentrating the soaking solution at 55 deg.C under reduced pressure, centrifuging, and collecting supernatant; and (3) putting the supernate into an activated carbon column, wherein the temperature of the liquid of the.
The preparation method of the pomegranate flower extract comprises the following steps: crushing 10g of dried pomegranate flower, placing the crushed pomegranate flower into a reactor, adding 200mL of 50% ethanol by mass, stirring for 3 days, placing the mixture into a reflux extraction device, heating the mixture in a water bath to 65 ℃, carrying out reflux extraction for 3 hours, filtering, concentrating the filtrate at 55 ℃ under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain the pomegranate flower extract.
The preparation method of the chamomile extract comprises the following steps: soaking 100g of dried flos Matricariae Chamomillae in water in a reactor for 2 hr, adding flos Matricariae Chamomillae in the reactor, adding 400g of distilled water, shaking, slowly heating to boil, placing in a reflux extraction device, heating in water bath to 60 deg.C, and reflux-extracting for 4 hr to obtain flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract.
The preparation method of the cherry leaf essence comprises the following steps: crushing 10g of cherry leaves, placing the crushed cherry leaves into a reactor, adding 200mL of 50% ethanol by mass, stirring for 3 days, placing the mixture into a reflux extraction device, heating the mixture in a water bath to 65 ℃, carrying out reflux extraction for 3 hours, filtering, concentrating the filtrate at 55 ℃ under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain cherry leaf essence.
The preparation method of the oldenlandia diffusa extract comprises the following steps: crushing 10g of oldenlandia diffusa, placing the oldenlandia diffusa into a reactor, adding 10 times of 50% ethanol by weight, stirring for 1 day, placing the mixture into a reflux extraction device, heating the mixture in a water bath to 70 ℃, carrying out reflux extraction for 3 hours, filtering, concentrating the filtrate at 55 ℃ under reduced pressure, and drying to obtain the oldenlandia diffusa extract.
The preparation method of the litchi shell extract comprises the following steps: weighing 10g of litchi shell powder, adding 10 times of 50% by weight of ethanol, placing the mixture into a reflux extraction device, heating and refluxing for 3 hours at 65 ℃, centrifuging the obtained extract for 10 minutes at 10000 r/min at room temperature to obtain supernatant, removing the solvent from the supernatant through reduced pressure rotary evaporation to obtain a paste litchi shell extract, dissolving the paste litchi shell extract by using redistilled water, and centrifuging the paste litchi shell extract for 10 minutes at 10000 r/min to obtain clear liquid.
Example 1
Taking 30 parts by weight of a mulberry bark extract, 18 parts by weight of a pomegranate flower extract, 30 parts by weight of a chamomile extract, 18 parts by weight of cherry leaf essence, 2 parts by weight of methyl hydroxybenzoate serving as a preservative and 2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol, and mixing and stirring the components uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive.
Example 2
Taking 34 parts by weight of a mulberry bark extract, 14 parts by weight of a pomegranate flower extract, 34 parts by weight of a chamomile extract, 14 parts by weight of cherry leaf essence, 2 parts by weight of a preservative methyl hydroxybenzoate and 2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol, and mixing and stirring the components uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive.
Example 3
Taking 38 parts by weight of a white mulberry root-bark extract, 10 parts by weight of a pomegranate flower extract, 38 parts by weight of a chamomile extract, 10 parts by weight of cherry leaf essence, 2 parts by weight of a preservative methyl hydroxybenzoate and 2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol, and mixing and stirring the components uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive.
Example 4
Taking 32 parts by weight of a mulberry bark extract, 12 parts by weight of a pomegranate flower extract, 32 parts by weight of a chamomile extract, 12 parts by weight of cherry leaf essence, 8 parts by weight of a spreading hedyotis herb extract, 2 parts by weight of a preservative methyl hydroxybenzoate and 2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol, and mixing and stirring the components uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive.
Example 5
Taking 32 parts by weight of mulberry bark extract, 12 parts by weight of pomegranate flower extract, 32 parts by weight of chamomile extract, 12 parts by weight of cherry leaf essence, 8 parts by weight of lychee shell extract, 2 parts by weight of preservative methyl hydroxybenzoate and 2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol, and mixing and stirring the components uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive.
Example 6
Taking 30 parts by weight of mulberry bark extract, 10 parts by weight of pomegranate flower extract, 30 parts by weight of chamomile extract, 10 parts by weight of cherry leaf essence, 8 parts by weight of spreading hedyotis herb extract, 8 parts by weight of lychee shell extract, 2 parts by weight of preservative methyl hydroxybenzoate and 2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol, and mixing and stirring the components uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive.
Comparative example 1
And mixing and stirring 48 parts by weight of the cortex mori extract, 48 parts by weight of the chamomile extract, 2 parts by weight of methylparaben and 2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive.
Comparative example 2
Mixing and stirring the components uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive, wherein the weight parts of the white mulberry root-bark extract, the cherry leaf essence and the methyl hydroxybenzoate are 48, the weight parts of the methyl hydroxybenzoate and the phenoxyethanol are 2.
Comparative example 3
Taking 38 parts by weight of a white mulberry root-bark extract, 38 parts by weight of a chamomile extract, 20 parts by weight of cherry leaf essence, 2 parts by weight of methyl hydroxybenzoate serving as a preservative and 2 parts by weight of phenoxyethanol, and mixing and stirring the components uniformly to obtain the cosmetic additive.
Application examples 1 to 2
The contents (parts) of the components in the following table 1 were determined, wherein the cosmetic additive was the cosmetic additive prepared in examples 1 and 4, and the toner was prepared according to the following procedure.
The preparation method of the toner comprises the following steps:
1) adding glycerol, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, EDTA disodium and water into a reaction kettle in sequence, heating to 80 ℃, and uniformly stirring.
2) Cooling to 40 deg.C, adding methyl hydroxybenzoate, phenoxyethanol and cosmetic additive, stirring, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the final product.
Application comparative example 1
According to the contents (parts) of the components in the following table 1, wherein the cosmetic additive was the cosmetic additive prepared in comparative example 1, a toner was prepared in the same manner as in application examples 1-2.
TABLE 1
Application examples 3 to 4
The skin care lotion was prepared according to the contents (parts) of the components in table 2 below, wherein the cosmetic additives were the cosmetic additives prepared in examples 2 and 5, and according to the following procedure.
The preparation method of the skin care emulsion comprises the following steps:
1) mixing cetyl alcohol, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, glycerol stearate, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer and octyl dodecanol oleate, heating to 80 deg.C until completely dissolved to obtain a first composition;
2) mixing water, glycerol, butanediol, xanthan gum, trehalose and EDTA disodium, heating to 80 ℃ until the materials are completely dissolved to obtain a second composition;
3) adding the first composition to the second composition, homogenizing at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes;
4) cooling to 40 deg.C, adding citric acid and cosmetic additives, stirring, and cooling to room temperature to obtain skin care emulsion.
Comparative application example 2
Skin care emulsions were prepared in the same manner as in application examples 3-4, based on the contents (parts) of the components in table 2 below, which is the cosmetic additive prepared in comparative example 2.
TABLE 2
Application examples 5 to 6
The contents (parts) of the components in the following table 3 were as follows, wherein the cosmetic additives were the cosmetic additives prepared in examples 3 and 6, and skin cream was prepared according to the following procedure.
The preparation method of the skin cream comprises the following steps:
1) mixing potassium cetyl phosphate, cetostearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, heating to 80 deg.C until completely dissolved to obtain a first composition;
2) mixing glycerol, butanediol, EDTA disodium, trehalose and water, and heating to 80 ℃ until the mixture is completely dissolved to obtain a second composition;
3) adding the first composition to the second composition, homogenizing at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes;
4) cooling to 40 deg.C, adding citric acid and cosmetic additives, stirring, and cooling to room temperature to obtain skin cream.
Comparative application example 3
The skin cream was prepared according to the same method as application examples 5 to 6, based on the contents (parts) of the components in table 3 below, which is the cosmetic additive prepared in comparative example 3.
TABLE 3
Tyrosinase Activity test experiment
Using the in vitro tyrosinase activity inhibition assay, phosphate buffered saline (PBS buffer, pH 6.8, 0.1 mol. L) was added to the test tubes at the amounts shown in Table 4 below-1) Test samples having a mass concentration of 5% (skin lotions, skin lotions and skin creams according to application examples 1 to 6 and application comparative examples 1 to 3) and a concentration of 0.5 mmol. multidot.L-1The L-tyrosine solution of (1) was kept in a water bath at 37 ℃ for 10 minutes, and the absorbance at 475nm was measured as shown in Table 4, C1As a blank control group, C2For blank zeroing, T1As sample set, T2For sample zeroing. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity was calculated as follows:
TABLE 4
| Reagent | C1 | C2 | T1 | T2 |
| V(PBS)/mL | 2.0 | 2.5 | 1.0 | 1.5 |
| V (test sample)/mL | 0 | 0 | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| V (L-tyrosine)/mL | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 |
| V (tyrosinase)/mL | 0.5 | 0 | 0.5 | 0 |
After the skin lotion, the skin lotion and the skin cream prepared in application example 1, application example 2, application example 3, application example 4, application example 5, application example 6, application comparative example 1, application comparative example 2 and application comparative example 3 were added, respectively, the tyrosinase inhibition rates are shown in the following table 5 and fig. 1.
TABLE 5
As can be seen from table 5 and fig. 1, when the cortex mori extracts, the pomegranate flower extracts, the chamomile extracts, and the cherry leaf essences of the present invention were used as cosmetic additives, tyrosinase activity was effectively inhibited as compared to the application of comparative examples 1-3; when one or two of oldenlandia diffusa extract and lychee shell extract are added, the activity of tyrosinase can be further inhibited, and the inhibition rate can reach more than 90%.
Test of use effect
Consumer experience tests are carried out on the toner, the skin care emulsion and the skin care cream prepared in the application examples 1-6 and the application comparative examples 1-3. The evaluation was carried out on 32 skin-sensitive consumers between 18 and 45 years of age, with a test period of one month, each morning and evening application.
And measuring the change of the cheek skin color by using a Lab colorimetric system spectrophotometer, and judging the shade of the skin color according to the magnitude of the L value of the skin color, wherein the lighter the skin color is indicated by the larger the L value. Therefore, before and after the test, the L value is increased, and the corresponding whitening effect is achieved; if the value of L is not changed, the whitening effect is not achieved.
Whether or not the cosmetic containing the cosmetic additive has an anti-allergy effect was determined by inquiring the subject about the presence or absence of an allergic reaction, and the results are shown in table 6.
TABLE 6
As can be seen from table 6, the cosmetics prepared by using the cosmetic additive of the present application have better whitening effect and anti-allergy effect. Therefore, the combination of the mulberry bark extract, the pomegranate flower extract, the chamomile extract and the cherry leaf essence has a good synergistic effect. In addition, when herba Hedyotidis Diffusae extract and exocarpium litchi extract are added, whitening effect and anti-allergy effect are also improved.
Claims (18)
1. A cosmetic additive, comprising: mulberry bark extract, pomegranate flower extract, chamomile extract and cherry leaf essence; and
one or two of herba Hedyotidis Diffusae extract and exocarpium litchi extract;
the cosmetic additive comprises, by weight, 20-40% of a white mulberry root bark extract, 10-30% of a pomegranate flower extract, 20-40% of a chamomile extract, 10-30% of a cherry leaf essence, 5-20% of a spreading hedyotis herb extract and 5-20% of a litchi shell extract;
the pomegranate flower extract is obtained by adopting an ethanol extraction mode; the chamomile extract is obtained by adopting a water extraction mode; the cherry leaf essence is obtained by adopting an ethanol extraction mode; the oldenlandia diffusa extract is obtained by adopting an ethanol extraction mode; the litchi shell extract is obtained by adopting an ethanol extraction mode;
the cortex mori extract is obtained by the following steps:
soaking the pulverized cortex Mori in ethanol solution to obtain soaking solution;
concentrating the soak solution, centrifuging, and taking supernatant;
and (3) putting the supernatant into an active carbon column, eluting with water and/or ethanol, collecting the eluent, and drying to obtain the cortex mori radicis extract.
2. The cosmetic additive according to claim 1, wherein the weight percentage of the cortex mori extract is 30-40% by weight of the cosmetic additive.
3. The cosmetic additive according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the weight percentage of the pomegranate flower extract is 10-20% based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive.
4. The cosmetic additive according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight percentage of the chamomile extract is 30 to 40%, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic additive.
5. The cosmetic additive according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cherry leaf essence is present in an amount of 10 to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic additive.
6. The cosmetic additive according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oldenlandia diffusa extract is present in a weight percentage of 5-10%; the weight percentage of the litchi shell extract is 5-10%.
7. The cosmetic additive according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic additive further comprises a preservative.
8. The cosmetic additive of claim 7 wherein the preservative comprises one or more of methylparaben, phenoxyethanol, pentylene glycol, benzoic acid, propylparaben.
9. The cosmetic additive of claim 8 wherein the preservative is one or both of methylparaben and phenoxyethanol.
10. The cosmetic additive according to claim 7, wherein the preservative is added in an amount of 0.02 to 5% by weight of the cosmetic additive.
11. The cosmetic additive according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the amount of methylparaben added to the preservative is 0.01 to 2% by weight of the cosmetic additive; the addition amount of the phenoxyethanol is 0.01-5%.
12. The cosmetic additive according to claim 11, wherein the amount of methylparaben added to the preservative is 0.01 to 1% by weight of the cosmetic additive; the addition amount of the phenoxyethanol is 0.01-3%.
13. A method for preparing a cosmetic additive according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising: a step of mixing the components of the cosmetic additive.
14. A cosmetic comprising the cosmetic additive according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
15. The cosmetic according to claim 14, wherein the cosmetic additive is added in an amount of 5 to 20%.
16. The cosmetic according to claim 15, wherein the cosmetic additive is added in an amount of 8 to 16%.
17. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 14 to 16, wherein the cosmetic comprises a skin cream, a skin lotion, a moisturizing lotion, a skin essence or a face cleanser.
18. The cosmetic according to any one of claims 14 to 16, wherein the cosmetic comprises an eye essence.
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| 朋远公司原装DIY桑白皮萃取液10ml－嫩白,消炎,保湿;冰凉的夏微博;《http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_60b4bb180100dh5h.html》;20090630;网页正文 * |
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