CN106012214A - Jacquard acetic acid filament home textile fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents
Jacquard acetic acid filament home textile fabric and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN106012214A CN106012214A CN201610431747.1A CN201610431747A CN106012214A CN 106012214 A CN106012214 A CN 106012214A CN 201610431747 A CN201610431747 A CN 201610431747A CN 106012214 A CN106012214 A CN 106012214A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/04—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B2700/00—Treating of textile materials, e.g. bleaching, dyeing, mercerising, impregnating, washing; Fulling of fabrics
- D06B2700/25—Sizing, starching or impregnating warp yarns; Making glazed yarn; Drying sized warp yarns
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/28—Cellulose esters or ethers, e.g. cellulose acetate
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides a jacquard acetic acid filament home textile fabric. Warp is semi-dull polyester filaments with the specification of 50D/72F, and warp density is 200 pieces per inch. Weft is 75 D acetic acid filaments, and weft density is 96.5 pieces per inch. The structure is a large jacquard fabric. The breadth of the finished product is 160 cm. A production method of the fabric includes the steps that firstly, weaving is conducted, wherein weaving is conducted through warping by means of a warping machine, sizing by means of a filament sizing machine, re-beaming by means of a combining machine, leasing by means of a leasing machine, drafting and weaving by means of a rapier jacquard loom; secondly, dyeing is conducted, wherein dyeing is conducted through unwinding, desizing, dyeing, dewatering, scotching and setting. The fabric is flat, fine, smooth in cloth surface, soft in hand feeling, light, thin, cool, easy to wash, quick to dry, high in color fastness, good in air permeability, gentle and elegant. Reagents of the fabric successfully meet the requirement for comfort and cool of home textile summer quilt fabric of people, and the fabric has high addition value and wide market prospects and is remarkable in economic and social benefit.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, specifically a kind of jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric and production method thereof.
Background technology
More than the 85% of world's cellulose acetate filament volume of production is raw by the major company of the U.S., Italy, Britain, Japan and other countries
Produce.Asia cellulose acetate filament produces company and is concentrated mainly on Japan and Korea S.The yield of cellulose acetate filament is most with North America, is 2.53 ten thousand
Ton/year, account for the 34.7% of the world；Next to that 1.43 ten thousand tons/year of Japan, account for the 19.6% of the world；In recent years, Korea S's cellulose acetate filament
Production capacity be greatly improved.SK group of Korea S on the basis of existing 0.8 ten thousand tons/year of cellulose acetate filament production capacities, 2010 and the U.S.
Eastman cooperates, in the cellulose acetate filament processing factory that Korea S's construction scale is 2.7 ten thousand tons/year.And other countries such as Pakistan,
The state such as Lithuania, Argentina also produces acetate fiber, but underproduces 0.5 ten thousand tons/year.
Traditional acetate fiber is in occupation of high-quality suit and the absolute market share of fashionable dress lining.20 end of the centurys, by acetic acid
The high-grade fabric of long filament manufacture is shown up prominently at field of textiles.In the Italy that clothing industry is flourishing, its weaving acetic acid
In the consumption of long filament, high-grade fabric occupies 31.1%, and lining accounts for 35.2%, and ornamental textile accounts for 27%.In recent years, vinegar
Acid long filament new product, the research and development of new technique are subject to extensive concern in the industry, such as: Novaceta company of Italy
The mould proof cellulose acetate filament of 84dtex/23F and 167dtex/38F " silfresh " puts on market；Eastman company of the U.S. is spun
Front coloring cellulose acetate filament has the series of products such as 84dtex/19F and 330dtex/76F；" Ventcoal " double-component of Mitsubishi
Fiber is that to select secondary cellulose acetate sheets and three vinegar sheets be raw material, makes through composite spinning, and the bulkiness of its crimpness and fabric has
The function adjusted with the change of ambient humidity；The nanometer acetate fiber of the U.S. has resistance to fungi, is preferable protective clothes
Fabric；The chulalongkorn university of the Thailand nanometer acetate fiber net by electrostatic spinning, can be used for tissue engineering bracket material
Material, medicinal liquid control induction system and wound wrapping.
Just because of the continuous appearance of cellulose acetate filament new varieties, the range of application of cellulose acetate filament the most constantly expands.Acetate fiber
Birth is trial-produceed successfully by Britain in early 1920s and realizes industrialized production, is to be only second to glue at present in cellulose fibre
The second largest kind of glue fiber.Acetate fiber is the staple fibre prepared for raw material through esterification with acetic acid and cellulose.
Cellulose acetate filament most exactly likes real silk in chemical fibre, has good drapability, thermoplasticity, dimensional stability.Vinegar
Although acid fiber derives from cellulose, but in esterification process, the polar hydroxyl groups on cellulose glucose ring is greatly
Being replaced to ester by acetyl group, therefore, the dyestuff Dichlorodiphenyl Acetate fiber that cellulose dyeing is commonly used is almost without affinity, it is difficult on
Dye, and, acetate fiber strength is at a fairly low, and dry strong only 1.1-1.2cN/dtex, being used as warp thread in weaving has certain difficulty
Degree.For many years, acetate fiber material fabric is confined always and is used in lining.
The R&D institution that produces of China was also carried out cellulose acetate and the lab scale of cellulose acetate filament and pilot scale, but due to one
A little technical problems, make this research work fail to continue deeper into and carry out.For a long time weaving cellulose acetate filament the most all rely on into
Mouthful, mainly public from the Celanese company of the U.S., this company safe of Britain, La Nisi company of Canada and Mitsubishi vinegar fibre
Department's import.
Summary of the invention
Being applied to problems present in a textile fabric to solve cellulose acetate filament in prior art, the present invention proposes one
Plant new jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric and production method thereof, specific as follows:
A kind of jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, warp thread is semi-dull polyester filament, 50D/72F, and end count is 200/English
Very little；Weft yarn is cellulose acetate filament, 75D, and filling density is 96.5 pieces/inch；It is organized as big Developing of Jacquard Weave.Fabric width is 160cm.
A kind of production method of described fabric, step includes:
1) weaving: warping machine warping → slurry silk machine starching → through machine axle → splitting machine leasing → → arrow shaft jacquard weave of gaiting
Loom is weaved；
2) dyeing: debatching → desizing → dyeing → dehydration → open-width → setting；
Described step 1) in,
Described step 1) in,
Requiring to include of warping machine warping: total warping radical is 24520, wherein Side End Number 60 × 2；Warping radical
It it is 1680；Speed is 280m/min；Coiling tension is 10/16kg；Bobbin cradle tension force is 7g；
Requiring to include of slurry silk machine slurry silk: unwinding tension is 18kg；Coiling tension is 23kg；Soaking paste roller pressure is 3.5kg；
Squeezing roller pressure is 3.0kg/2.5kg/3.0kg；Slurry groove temperature 53 DEG C；Drying room tension force is 15g；Drying room temperature is 155 DEG C/150
℃；Cylinder temperature is 140 DEG C/135 DEG C/130 DEG C/125 DEG C/120 DEG C；
Recipe requirements of sizing mixing is: SHH-3020 type polyester filament special sizing agent (consumption is according to product description)；Antistatic
Agent (without particular requirement, uses conventional product, consumption is according to product description)；Anti-friction agent (without particular requirement, uses conventional
Product, consumption is according to product description)；Slurry temperature is 98～100 DEG C；Concentration of slurry is 10%；
And requiring to include through machine axle: speed is 60m/min；Moving back solution tension force is 15kg × 14；Winding tension is
200kg；Tapering is 3%；And the axle number of axle is 14；
What drawing-in machine was gaited requires to include: porter be (tooth/2 inch) be 96#；Reed width is 128 inches；Ground tissue is combined and is worn method
It is along wearing；It is along wearing that Selvage Stitch combines the method for wearing；It is 1 that ground tissue is combined into number；It is 2 that Selvage Stitch is combined into number；It is 4 that ground tissue reed enters number；Limit
It is 4 that tissue reed enters number；The menopause tablet method of wearing is 1,2,3,4,5,6；Use plastic heddle；
Rapier jacquard loom is woven to be required to include: speed is 200rpm；Upper machine filling density is 96 pieces/inch；Opening pattern
It it is electronic jacquard；Opening time is 312 degree；The main jet time is 70 degree；Back beam height is-5mm；Warp stop frame height is 1 lattice；In advance
Adding tension force is 315kg；Temple pad is 4mm；Main jet pressure is 4MP；The auxiliary power of spraying is 4.5MP；Temperature and relative humidity are respectively
It it is 23 DEG C～27 DEG C and 68%～74%；
Described step 2) in,
Requiring to include of desizing: add chelating agen, sodium dihydrogen phosphate and anionic, net lotion in desizing liquid, and use
HS-211A type desizing refining agent, carries out abundant desizing at temperature 98 DEG C；Use detergent 209 as penetrating agent in temperature again
Fully soap for 90 DEG C～80 DEG C；Then through 70 DEG C～50 DEG C of hot water wash；Last cold water is washed；
Requiring to include of dyeing: dye liquor pH value, 5～6, progressively heats up and dyes；Rise dye temperature from the beginning of 40 DEG C, so
The speed of 1 DEG C the most per minute is progressively warming up to 85 DEG C, renews dye 50 minutes；
The dyestuff of dye liquor is disperse dyes；Dye liquor adds dispersant NNO, N,N-dimethylformamide, glacial acetic acid, ammonia
Water, anhydrous sodium sulfate, sodium carbonate and levelling agent, it is ensured that the pH value of dye liquor is 5～6；
Require to include qualitatively: using the setting of hot blast stentering boarding machine, setting temperature is 140 DEG C, and fixing time is 60s.
High-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric of the present invention, trends towards considering for health of people, selects the terylene of high-quality
Warp thread made by long filament, and cellulose acetate filament is as weft yarn, and through weaving, dyeing Final finishing processes.Acetate fiber it both there is natural fibre
The speciality tieed up, the function again with synthetic fibers simultaneously, have the gloss as good color forming property, good feel, superior silk
With graceful pendency sense.Additionally there is the easy-care properties of synthetic fibers.Interweave with acetate fibre filament and terylene semi-dull long filament
The fabric being made into has gloss the most luxurious as silkworm silk, soft smooth.Acetate fiber is the comfortable of non-polluting renewable
Property fiber. its abundance, can be with rapid regeneration, and production procedure is short, will not produce " three wastes " of environmental pollution.Acetic acid
Fiber development prospect worldwide is wide, is the following environmental protection fiber likely replacing viscose rayon.The present invention
High-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, this fabric is smooth fine and closely woven, and cloth cover is smooth, soft, frivolous and have cool feeling, washable
Quick-drying, color fastness is strong, and good permeability is the most elegant.Trial-produceing successfully of this product will meet people further to home textile summer cool quilt
The comfortable nice and cool demand of fabric, has higher added value and wide market prospect, and economic and social benefit is notable.
The principle of the present invention is:
The main research of the present invention and key problem in technology
1, research weaving process parameter, it is ensured that functional fiber performance is not lost.Weaving process is studied and how to reduce
The weaving efficiency that broken end, guarantee warp tension are little and uniform and certain.
2, research dyeing fabric Technology.Select suitable desizing operation and dyeing, it is ensured that while dye-uptake,
Guarantee the uniform and vividness of color that cloth cover is painted.
3, research fabric rear finishing duplex technology.Select suitable setting temperature and auxiliary agent, it is ensured that the feel of fabric and merit
Energy.
After testing, the fabric quality of the present invention: meet GB18401-2010 " country's textile product basic security technology rule
Model " B class standard requirement, top-quality product rate reaches 100%.
Acetate fiber is cellulose pulp spinning after acetylation to be formed.It is currently in regenerated celulose fibre the most secondary
In the second largest kind of viscose rayon, also known as acetate fiber.Acetate fiber in early days is difficult due to common natural fiber dyestuff
To make it somewhat limited in the application of field of textiles its dyeing, and it is used as the filter tip of medicated cigarette, plastic, medical system more
Product, chemical industry tow etc..
The function admirable of acetate fiber own, soft, the soft elegance of gloss, drapability is good, has certain hygroscopicity, tool
There is the speciality of similar real silk；Meanwhile, have again that synthetic fibers are stiffening, smooth, the characteristic of anti-mould and anti-moth.Along with textile process technology
Make rapid progress, fabric, quality that cellulose acetate filament interweaves with terylene are frivolous, have good feel and breathability.
The density of acetate fiber is less than viscose rayon, and being closer to of terylene, and intensity is minimum in three kinds of fibers
's.Loss of strength under hygrometric state is relatively big, and residual intensity is about does strong 70%, and the wet strength of viscose glue is similar.Therefore, exist
Stretching and wet the adding of acetate fiber, must take gentle mode man-hour, but the extension at break of acetate fiber is compared with viscose glue
Want height, extend bigger under hygrometric state.Therefore, the elasticity of acetate fiber is relatively preferable, is similar to silkworm silk, Pilus Caprae seu Ovis.Boiling water shrinkage is relatively
Low, but the performances such as the strength of fiber and gloss can be impacted by high-temperature process, and therefore temperature is no more than 85 DEG C.Regain
Viscose rayon to be less than, but significantly larger than polyester fiber, between viscose glue and polyester, say, that acetate fiber both had
Certain water absorption, the performance quickly sloughed after there is again water suction.The softening temperature of acetate fiber with fusing point compared with polyester
For close, having the dry heat treatment under the hot property of similar synthetic fibers, relaxation condition will not impact the performance of fiber.
In prior art, because the regain of cellulose acetate filament is low and silk pulp grinder technology does not passes a test, the quality of its silk product can not
Satisfactory, adding people at that time is based on durable to the consumption concept of textile, and the intensity of cellulose acetate filament is relatively
Low, fabric does not reaches the use requirement of consumer.
Owing to acetate fiber has a series of premium properties, it is widely used in people's lives and each neck of social economy
Territory.Acetate fiber moisture pick-up properties is good, and regain is 6%, can use disperse dyeing, and have and good wear performance.Acetic acid
The chopped fiber of fiber filament is used for and cotton, Pilus Caprae seu Ovis or synthetic fibers blending, but under hygrometric state, intensity reduces by 40%～50%, fiber
Start deformation when 140～150 DEG C, 176 DEG C bond.
High-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric of the present invention, its warp thread selection polyester filament, weft yarn selection cellulose acetate filament,
Weaving through rapier jacquard loom, dyeing and Final finishing process.The raw materials for production of trial-production are: polyester filament, cellulose acetate filament；
The production equipment of trial-production: field, Tianjin coltfoal 500 warping machine, warp sizing machine, warp rebeaming machine, GA177 drawing-in machine, ZAX9100 Russia and the U.S. spy's arrow shaft carry
Flower loom etc..
Product weave specification
The warp thread of this fabric is that semi-dull gently nets low bullet polyester filament 50D/72F, and end count is 200 pieces/inch, and weft yarn is vinegar
Acid long filament 75D, filling density is 96.5 pieces/inch, is organized as big Developing of Jacquard Weave, by through weft yarn raw material, yarn count, weft density and group
Knitting and cooperate, cloth cover is maximized favourable factors and minimized unfavourable ones, and Fabric width is 160cm.
Weaving process
Owing to warp thread is light net dacron thread, front production technology of knitting uses whole slurry process route, and warping process uses in batches
Warping method, each axle sizing respectively, carry out the most again and axle, all take strict Technology in each operation that beam of a loom is prepared
Measure.The uniformity of priority control good sheet yarn tension during warping；Select suitable slurry to carry out starching during slurry silk, suitably heighten starching
Rate；Additionally for reduce produce in electrostatic and lousiness occur, should strictly control the humiture of preparation house well, it is ensured that end-and-end lease is clear
Chu, fabric end count is relatively big, causes this fabric to be significantly greater than generally conventional kind by friction, drawing numbers in weaving process,
And then cause that weaving process occurs warp thread fluffing, a phenomenon such as electrostatic, fracture.
Dyeing and finishing process
Due to high-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, select suitable desizing agent, can thoroughly remove and decompose on fabric
Various slurries, and prevent its time to be stained with on fabric and equipment, can effectively prevent and reduce slime spots, color dot etc. because of the clean institute of desizing
The generation of the various defects caused, provides safeguard for improving product quality.The dyeing and finishing course of processing should take related technical measures, as
Select suitable desizing agent；Select the disperse dyes that enhancing, compatibility, repeatability and color fastness are good；Dye liquor adds and closes
Suitable levelling agent is to improve level-dyeing property；Use overflow dyeing machine, strictly control process conditions, to ensure dyeing quality.
Detailed description of the invention
The energy consumptions such as the water of acetate fiber, electricity, steam are significantly lower than viscose rayon, and environmental pollution is again smaller than viscose rayon.
Seeing from this point on, exploitation cellulose acetate filament is to improving China's textile exports competitiveness and in the face of world's Green Trade Barrier tool
There is the meaning of reality especially.
Acetate fiber is from belonging to the one that refines out the wood pulp cellulose of a kind of chemical molecular composition together with cotton fiber
Natural materials and vinegar ester acid anhydride etc. are raw material, and the cellulose acetate filament that can be used for spinning and weaving made through a series of chemical processes is fine
Dimension, it is with cellulose as basic framework, possesses the basic feature of cellulose fibre；But its performance is with regenerated celulose fibre again
Different, there is some characteristic of synthetic fibers.
The feature of acetate fiber:
The best thermoplasticity: acetate fiber softens when 200 DEG C-230 DEG C, melted when 260 DEG C, this feature makes vinegar ester
It is similar with synthetic fibers that fiber has thermoplasticity, and after producing plastic deformation, shape is no longer replied, and has deformation permanent.
The most excellent dyeability: acetate fiber generally can use disperse dyeing, and dye uptake is good, bright in luster, its
Dye uptake is better than other cellulose fibres.
3. outward appearance is like mulberry silk: the outward appearance of acetate fiber, gloss are similar to mulberry silk, soft smooth also with mulberry silk
Similar, its proportion is the same with mulberry silk, thus pendency sense and mulberry silk are without difference.The acetic acid fabric that acetate silk is made into is washable easily
Dry, the most mould not eat into, its elasticity is better than viscose rayon.
4. performance is close to mulberry silk: compared with the physical and mechanical properties of viscose rayon and mulberry silk, the intensity of acetate fiber
On the low side, extension at break is relatively big, though wet relatively low with dry strong ratio by force, higher than viscose, initial modulus is little, and regain compares viscose glue
Fiber and mulberry silk are low, but higher than synthetic fibers, and its wet strong and dry strong ratio, relative hook strength and knot strength, elasticity are extensive
Multiple rate etc. is more or less the same with mulberry silk.Thus acetate fiber in chemical fibre performance closest to mulberry silk.
Acetic acid fabric has the multiple performance surmounting cotton, linen fabric, as moisture absorption is breathed freely, washable easily dry, the most mould does not eats into,
Patch skin is comfortable, absolute environmental protection etc..Acetic acid fabric is not charged；It is difficult to adsorb the dust in air；Dry-cleaning, washing and less than 40 DEG C machines
Hand washing；It is prone to arrange collection, and acetic acid fabric has good resilience and smooth feel.
Acetate fiber dyeability is good, and fabric is bright in luster, bright in appearance, and character is soft and smooth, comfortable, but intensity is relatively low, opens
Send out vinegar ester fabric and need " maximizing favourable factors and minimizing unfavourable ones ".Acetate filament is widely used in clothes, household articles fabric.
This fabric specification is light net semi-dull DTY50D/72F × cellulose acetate filament 75D 200 × 96.5
One, weaving process technology requirement
Warping be weaving produce first operation, to carry out before production each ionotron, each reed, each deflector roll clear
Clean sanitary work, the process of filoplume is the most important thing, improves the sensitivity of filoplume detection, and size filoplume will process.Warping is opened
Power is wanted uniformly, and pressure roller pressurization is moderate, it is ensured that warp beam winding is smooth, it is ensured that at regular intervals between yarn.
How warping process makes tension in Warping the most even warp beam winding smooth is crucial.By the warp thread of process stipulation during warping
Radical 23520, need to share in 14 warp beams of winding, and speed 280 ms/min uses relatively low speed of beaming, controls between resultant yarn
Tension difference, it is ensured that sheet yarn tension uniformity as far as possible, preferably suitably strengthening, controls warping percentage elongation about 0.4%,
To reduce end breakage；Uniformly, yarn with yarn arrangement uniformly, ensures that yarn path cleaning is smooth, for improving weaving to winding simultaneously
Efficiency lays the first stone.Using creeling mode by the gross, make the uniform tension in order of whole warp beam, flatness is good.For making to be wound in warp beam
Yarn surface keep flatness and the pressure roll that uses, yarn can be carried out the contact of flexibility, and in order to prevent due to jerk machine
The fluffiness caused, field, Tianjin coltfoal TWN E type beam warper is also equipped with the inversion set that pressure roll can be made to retreat in moment.
These can ensure higher warp quality, and the enforcement smoothly for subsequent handling lays the foundation.
Sizing operation is crucial, improves weavability by sizing, make through sizing yarn sheet tension force, arrange, wind close
Degree uniformity, makes good beam of a loom, and light net semi-dull DTY50D/72F long filament is hydrophobic fibre, and electrostatic is serious, long filament
The loosest, torsion, so requiring that when starching convergence is good, the obvolvent between reinforcing fibre to be focused on, the adhesive force of serosity
It is eager to excel.The permeability of serosity to be got well simultaneously, if permeability is bad, serosity is difficult to penetrate between strand at short notice, easily
Form surface size, it is impossible to realize well cohering between fiber.
In order to prevent the most glutinous taking during polyester filament starching, to maintain a certain distance between long filament and long filament, typically adopt
With whole, slurry three-step approach starching, will be made into the warp beam that density is diluter by warp thread, the starching respectively of each warp beam and pulping axle, by several
Only slurry axle is merged into beam of a loom.Due to three step starchings, warp thread, through warping, has been wound into the preferable warp beam of package, can guarantee that starching
Time stop less, such that it is able to avoid this type of shortcoming.
This top grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric end count reaches 787/10cm, considers from the flatness improving fabric,
Preferably use bigger warp tension, fabric can be made well-pressed, strong.Owing to warp count is big, the polyester filament as warp thread is easy
Fluffing causes opening unclear, so back beam height can be more lower slightly, be unlikely and cause opening unclear because top line tension force is too small,
Cause the float such as skips, the most not reason lower layer warp yarns overtension and cause a large amount of broken end.
Using Russia and the U.S.'s spy's ALPHA rapier loom to weave, correct setting and adjusting process parameter are that rapier loom is high
Effect operating and the guarantee of good quality.
Two, dyeing and finishing technology technology requirement
Desizing refining agent HS-211A can the most thoroughly remove decomposed various slurries on fabric, and prevents its time to be stained with
On fabric and equipment, can effectively prevent and reduce the generation of the various defects that slime spots, color dot etc. are caused the most only because of desizing, for
Improve product quality to provide safeguard.The dyeing and finishing course of processing should take related technical measures, as selected suitable desizing agent；Selection carries
The disperse dyes that liter property, compatibility, repeatability and color fastness are good；Suitable levelling agent is added to improve level-dyeing property in dye liquor；
Use overflow dyeing machine, strictly control process conditions, to ensure dyeing quality.
Owing to this fabric has the higher rate of sizing and thread count, the dyeing and finishing of its grey cloth processing easily occur desizing not to the utmost,
The problems such as upper dye is irregular, color fastness is poor.The dyeing and finishing course of processing should take related technical measures, as selected suitable desizing agent；Choosing
Select the acid stain that enhancing, compatibility, repeatability and color fastness are good；Suitable levelling agent is added to improve level dyeing in dye liquor
Property；Using overflow dyeing machine, strictly control process conditions, normal temperature and pressure dyes, and suitably reduces and begins dye temperature and delay heating and cooling
Speed, to ensure dyeing quality.
Dyeing and finishing technology flow process is: openpore inspection debatching desizing dyeing dehydration open-width is shaped as product examine
Test.
Fabric and production technology are formulated as follows:
One, product specification
63 " the high-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament home textile face of semi-dull polyester DTY 50D/72F × cellulose acetate filament 75D 200 × 96.5
Material
Two, the technological process of production
1, weaving process flow process
Field, coltfoal warping machine TWN-E warping Japan Tianjin, field, Tianjin coltfoal slurry silk machine KSH500 E starching Japan of Japan Tianjin
Field coltfoal is also gaited arrow shaft ALPHA through machine KB 30 E axle Japan rattan hall splitting machine TC 700 95 leasing
Jacquard grey cloth is checked into and is wrapped into storehouse
2, dyeing rear finishing duplex process flow
Grey cloth inspection debatching desizing dyeing dehydration setting test package.
Three, technological parameter and key problem in technology
1, weaving process parameter and key point
Slurry silk, makes strand Surface coating one layer serous coat smooth, pliable and tough and firm, with strengthen the cohesive force of polyester filament with
Wearability, enables various frictional force and the tension force bearing in weaving process, makes to be woven under the requirement of good quality and high output smoothly
Carry out.Slurry to select the performances such as good tackness, convergence, flatness, resistance to water, antistatic.Slurry silk, makes strand table
Bread covers one layer of serous coat smooth, pliable and tough and firm, in the modulation of slurry and the use of serosity, and the serosity that polyester filament uses
Low temperature to be taked is sized mixing and low temperature starching technique.When sizing mixing, the temperature of water is less than 60 DEG C, for slurry temperature between 40-45 DEG C,
Concentration of slurry is determined by rate of sizing size, and consumption sugar instrument is tested and controls, and has and sticks phenomenon again, easily make slurry silk after moisture absorption
And produce between slurry silk and glue also, make weaving be difficult to.
Selecting slurry used by polyester filament starching, slurry to have good tackness, convergence, flatness, water-fast
The performances such as property, antistatic.To be mainly acrylic acid plasmoid perverse production practices for slurry be applicable to polyester filament starching at present, for
The starch finishing effect that acquisition is excellent, selection and formula of size at slurry are formulated, and answer the concrete condition specifically to treat.Production practices
Show, on the basis of selecting acrylic compounds to be main slurry, it is also possible to according to precursor performance, add on various in formula of size
Slurry auxiliary agent, as smooth agent, antistatic additive, defoamer etc. optimize formula of size, improves serosity quality, and then promotes that slurry yarn quality carries
Height, with mixing slurry starching, slurry silk feel is more well-pressed, and convergence is preferable, adapts to weave the life that relative humidity is 70%～74%
Produce environment.
In the modulation of slurry and the use of serosity, the serosity low temperature to be taked that polyester filament uses is sized mixing and low temperature starching
Technique.When sizing mixing, the temperature of water is less than 60 DEG C, and slurry groove temperature is between 53 DEG C, and concentration of slurry is determined by rate of sizing size, and
Consumption sugar instrument is tested and controls.Starching form uses the single pressure of single leaching, and the pressure of squeezing roller is depending on the denier of polyester filament.
The size of the polyester filament rate of sizing, should have according to the difference of the density size of dacron thread number of fiber, fiber number, the twist and fabric
Institute is different.But the rate of sizing is unsuitable excessive, and the rate of sizing is big, and not only the surface serous coat of silk is blocked up, easily causes slurry, and starches silk and send out
Hair, is difficult to weaving.The rate of sizing that polyester filament starching is suitable, is chosen as 5%.Owing to polyester filament starching uses with acrylic compounds
Slurry is main body slurry, and one topmost shortcoming of this slurry is to have after moisture absorption to stick phenomenon again, easily makes slurry silk and slurry silk
Between produce viscous also, make weaving be difficult to.Therefore polyester filament sizing moisture rate should control below 3%.Polyester filament system
Thermoplastic fibre, can produce different thermal contraction phenomenons after being heated, so selecting rational percentage elongation critically important.This time low bullet is washed
Synthetic fibre long filament processed filament controls 3%～4%.Reasonably drying room temperature, most important for polyester filament, because polyester filament
Starching uses domestic slurry to be difficult to because viscosity is higher dry, so at the first drying chamber, less than temperature in the range of the limit
Degree should raise as far as possible, and the drying temperature of other each rooms should be slightly below the first drying chamber temperature.Strict control the sending of slurry silk machine, roll up
Around tension force, give full play to the advantage of import slurry silk machine low-tension.Warp sizing dry after, then the oil preparation of upper 1% or prevent quiet
Electricity agent, the most both can make the smooth surface of slurry silk, reduces coefficient of friction, can play again the effect of antistatic.
Using axle countershaft starching mode, to carry out and axle, and use hightension after slurry silk, the slurry axle starched should have sufficiently
The shrinkage shaping time, it is usually and slurry axle is placed more than 48h, carry out the most again and axle.
For improving loom efficiency, improving product quality, the present invention uses plastic heddle, reduces the heald damage to warp thread,
Suitably reduce the speed of loom, slow down due to opening, the beating motion impact forces to warp thread；By regulating the position of the back rest
Put, the mode of the weight of the active length of tension spring and tension weight, suitably reduce the warp tension of warp thread；Reduce opening to move
Journey, makes warp thread reduce the changing value of warp tension in opening process；Install rear oiling device additional, beam of a loom is wrapped up, increase
The humidity in workshop；When processing heald frame to back rest cracked ends, warp thread to be avoided mutually is wound around with warp thread.By these behaves, permissible
It is effectively reduced cracked ends and lousiness phenomenon.
This example demonstrates that as follows:
(1) warping
(2) slurry silk
Size mixing formula
And axle (3)
(4) gait
(5) weaving process technical parameter
(6) arranging process
2, dyeing and finishing technology:
2.1 desizing
Owing to the rate of sizing is relatively big, desizing difficulty strengthens, and selected have good infiltration, emulsifying, the desizing agent of dispersive property, tool
Body technology is as follows:
Technological process: enter cloth-desizing-soap-hot water wash-cold water and wash.
Auxiliary agent: chelating agen 0.33g/L at 27 DEG C, sodium dihydrogen phosphate 0.08g/L, anionic, net lotion 0.07g/L；
Desizing agent: 5g/L,
Penetrating agent: 1～2g/L.
Process conditions:
Desizing temperature: 98 DEG C,
Soap temperature: 90 DEG C 80 DEG C,
Hot water wash temperature: 70 DEG C 50 DEG C.
2.2 dyeing
Owing to the hydroxyl in acetate fiber has pith to be acetylation, free hydroxyl group is less, causes its water absorbing properties to drop
Low, so water-soluble dye is improper, selects disperse dyes to dye, but the structure of acetate fiber is loosened than terylene, because of
On this, dye condition relaxes than terylene, and in dyeing course, disperse dyes are by the effect of dispersant, with dye granule or micro-gather
Presented in body in dye liquor, by absorption and diffusion and have an effect with fabric, combine with hydrogen bond and Van der Waals force.Dye
Color temperature is 85 DEG C, can affect dye uptake higher than 85 DEG C, and causes that feel is poor, gloss is bad.PH value is at 5-6, and temperature is the highest, on
Dye speed is the fastest, but easily produces color flower, for obtaining uniform Color as far as possible, uses the dyer progressively heated up
Skill, a dye temperature, from the beginning of 40 DEG C, is the most progressively warming up to 85 DEG C, continuous dye 50 minutes.
Dispersing agent NNO, glacial acetic acid, N, dinethylformamide, ammonia, anhydrous sodium sulfate, sodium carbonate,
Technology preparation is:
2.3 color fixing process
In order to make fabric have higher color fastness, technique is as follows:
Technology preparation is color fixing agent N SG:2.0g/L,
Glacial acetic acid: 0.5g/L,
2.4 setting
Process equipment: hot blast stentering boarding machine；
Technological process: enter cloth one auxiliary agent groove one weft straightener one dry/3～4 casees one tentering one cylinder cooling one go out cloth a dozen
Volume；
Process conditions: setting temperature 140 DEG C, fixing time 60s.
The quality measurements of embodiment product:
Fabric width: 160cm
End count: 787/10cm
Filling density: 380/10cm
Gram Mass: 85g/m2
Content of formaldehyde (unit: mg/kg): technology requires, for≤75, to survey as not detecting；
PH value: it is 4.0～4.8 that technology requires, actual measurement is 6.0；
Decomposable asymmetric choice net carcinogenic aromatic amine dyestuff (unit: mg/kg): technology requires, for disabling, to survey as not detecting；
Abnormal flavour: technology requires to be nothing, surveys as nothing；
Color fastness to water (unit: level) former state variable color, technology requires that actual measurement is 4～5 for >=3；
Staining, technology requires that actual measurement is 3 for >=3；
Acidproof PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS (unit: level) former state variable color, technology requires that actual measurement is 4～5 for >=3；
Staining, technology requires that actual measurement is 3 for >=3；
Alkaline-resisting PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS (unit: level) former state variable color, technology requires that actual measurement is 4～5 for >=3；
Staining, technology requires that actual measurement is 3 for >=3；
The color fastness of resistance to dry friction (unit: level), technology requires that actual measurement is 3 for >=3.
Claims (3)
1. a jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man textile fabric, is characterized in that
Warp thread is semi-dull polyester filament, 50D/72F, and end count is 200 pieces/inch；
Weft yarn is cellulose acetate filament, 75D, and filling density is 96.5 pieces/inch；
It is organized as big Developing of Jacquard Weave.
Fabric the most according to claim 1, is characterized in that Fabric width is 160cm.
3. a production method for fabric described in claim 1 or 2, is characterized in that step includes:
1) weaving: warping machine warping → slurry silk machine starching → through machine axle → splitting machine leasing → → rapier jacquard loom of gaiting
Weaving；
2) dyeing: debatching → desizing → dyeing → dehydration → open-width → setting；
Described step 1) in,
Requiring to include of warping machine warping: total warping radical is 24520, wherein Side End Number 60 × 2；Warping radical be
1680；Speed is 280m/min；Coiling tension is 10/16kg；Bobbin cradle tension force is 7g；
Requiring to include of slurry silk machine slurry silk: unwinding tension is 18kg；Coiling tension is 23kg；Soaking paste roller pressure is 3.5kg；Mud jacking
Roller pressure is 3.0kg/2.5kg/3.0kg；Slurry groove temperature 53 DEG C；Drying room tension force is 15g；Drying room temperature is 155 DEG C/150 DEG C；Stannum
Woods temperature is 140 DEG C/135 DEG C/130 DEG C/125 DEG C/120 DEG C；
Recipe requirements of sizing mixing is: SHH-3020 type polyester filament special sizing agent；Antistatic additive；Anti-friction agent；Slurry temperature be 98～
100℃；Concentration of slurry is 10%；
And requiring to include through machine axle: speed is 60m/min；Moving back solution tension force is 15kg × 14；Winding tension is 200kg；Cone
Degree is 3%；And the axle number of axle is 14；
What drawing-in machine was gaited requires to include: porter (tooth/2 inch) is 96#；Reed width is 128 inches；It is suitable that ground tissue combines the method for wearing
Wear；It is along wearing that Selvage Stitch combines the method for wearing；It is 1 that ground tissue is combined into number；It is 2 that Selvage Stitch is combined into number；It is 4 that ground tissue reed enters number；Selvage Stitch
It is 4 that reed enters number；The menopause tablet method of wearing is 1,2,3,4,5,6；Use plastic heddle；
Rapier jacquard loom is woven to be required to include: speed is 200rpm；Upper machine filling density is 96 pieces/inch；Opening pattern is electricity
The big jacquard weave of son；Opening time is 312 degree；The main jet time is 70 degree；Back beam height is-5mm；Warp stop frame height is 1 lattice；Pre-add is opened
Power is 315kg；Temple pad is 4mm；Main jet pressure is 4MP；The auxiliary power of spraying is 4.5MP；Temperature and relative humidity are 23 respectively
DEG C～27 DEG C and 68%～74%；
Described step 2) in,
Requiring to include of desizing: add chelating agen, sodium dihydrogen phosphate and anionic, net lotion in desizing liquid, and use HS-
211A type desizing refining agent, carries out abundant desizing at temperature 98 DEG C；Use detergent 209 as penetrating agent temperature 90 DEG C again
～80 DEG C fully soaped；Then through 70 DEG C～50 DEG C of hot water wash；Last cold water is washed；
Requiring to include of dyeing: dye liquor pH value, 5～6, progressively heats up and dyes；Rise dye temperature from the beginning of 40 DEG C, the most often
The speed of minute 1 DEG C is progressively warming up to 85 DEG C, renews dye 50 minutes；
The dyestuff of dye liquor is disperse dyes；Dye liquor adds dispersant NNO, N,N-dimethylformamide, glacial acetic acid, ammonia, nothing
Aqueous sodium persulfate, sodium carbonate and levelling agent, it is ensured that the pH value of dye liquor is 5～6；
Require to include qualitatively: using the setting of hot blast stentering boarding machine, setting temperature is 140 DEG C, and fixing time is 60s.
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