CN105755647A - Nanjing brocade diameter yarn weaving method - Google Patents
Nanjing brocade diameter yarn weaving method Download PDFInfo
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- CN105755647A CN105755647A CN201610327548.6A CN201610327548A CN105755647A CN 105755647 A CN105755647 A CN 105755647A CN 201610327548 A CN201610327548 A CN 201610327548A CN 105755647 A CN105755647 A CN 105755647A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
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Abstract
The invention provides a Nanjing brocade diameter yarn weaving method and belongs to the technical field of Nanjing brocade weaving.The method comprises the steps of 1, material preparation; 2, pattern designing; 3, cross-stitch work for forming decorative patterns, wherein cotton thread leading, silk thread drawing, cross-stitching, pattern cloning, pattern splicing and pattern forming are conducted, and cross-stitching is conducted on different ground-part patterns and pattern-part sheet independently; 4, weaving, wherein pattern lifting, disc weaving, beating-up and let-off and take-up are conducted, warps are made to be twisted together through doup harness during weaving, patterns are lifted to penetrate through wefts to form a ground part formed by two-warp skein, the dark pattern part is plain, jacquard weaving and a barrier are matched to make the zhuanghua part with the brocading disc weaving method; 5, finishing.The method has the advantages that the problem of various materials is solved; the weaving method and steps are determined; doup harness in a specific size is manufactured; a pattern sheet is different from ordinary patter sheets, and weaving of colored wefts and gold threads is achieved with a Nanjing brocade zhuanghua technique and a doup harness operation method.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to Nanjing brocade weaving technology field, be specifically related to the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn.
Technical background
" adornment flower " is the kind that in Nanjing Cloud-pattern Brocade, weaving process is the most complicated, is also the representative jacquard weave silk variety having Nanjing local characteristic most.Wood machine adornment flower weaving process is in China 5,000 years silk weaving history, more than 3,000 year picture-weaving in silk history, still can not be substituted by modern machines so far.
Diameter yarn is one of Nanjing brocade adornment flower yarn kind, and it weaves the lost one-hundred-year history of skill.Existing kind is hidden in the Forbidden City, Ge great museum mostly, and the Forbidden City hides " eight bright cloud gold dragon adornment flower yarn list robes of the bright yellow of clear Shunzi ", and on robe, eight grain pattern bright yellow of liner patchery twine a lotus stricture of vagina diameter yarn；Nanjing brocade museums " rivers and mountains, clear sapphire blue ground all ages diameter yarn ".
Existing adornment flower yarn kind mainly with two through reeled yarn for ground, dark pattern portion potted flower is combined and volt is combined and interweaved with ground weft, and decorative pattern is undistinct and easily loose.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: it is an object of the invention to provide the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, overcomes the problem that in prior art, decorative pattern is undistinct and easily loose.
Technical scheme: for achieving the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme that
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, comprises the steps:
Step 1) raw material preparation
Organizine: throwing, polish, dyeing, rounding gold thread；
Dress is made: install, making crossing heald device, stricture of vagina combine model, Hua Zong, pass, lift, prepared by suspension column, upper warp；Several, draw fibre, pick up thin silk fabric, denting；The organizine of diameter yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e. warp and doup end, and all organizine to penetrate in hedge, and the effect of hedge is to cooperate with adornment flower and weaves, silk point between formation；
Step 2) Ridge tracing
Arranging including grain pattern, draw artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring, grain pattern is drawn respectively；
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot is originally
Including playing ears or side handles of a utensil line, lead bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, fall flower, parquets, knot；Different ground portion decorative patterns and stricture of vagina portion are spent and are picked respectively by cross-stitch work part；
Step 4) weaving
Including dragging flower, dish is knitted, is beaten up, take-up and let-off；Being that leno heald makes warp mutual twisting during weaving, drag colored mode and mention decorative pattern, respectively penetrate parallel, forming ground portion is two through reeled yarn, and dark stricture of vagina part is plain weave, and adornment flower part takes jacquard weave to coordinate with hedge, and employing swivel dish is knitted skill and weaved；
Step 5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, whole scald, inspection, packaging, warehouse-in.
Step 2) in, dress make method be warp and doup end elder generation 1:1 penetrate and spend and combine, doup end penetrates in leno heald again；Leno heald and spend comprehensive and fibroblast line, fine line adds up to 1.5 times of organizine number, flower this with fine line number, fine line is originally connected with flower again, has completed the opening of weaving pattern.
Step 3) in, stricture of vagina portion picks and picks for routine, and cross-stitch work knot in ground portion the method include the steps that, by design paper grain pattern horizontal expansion three times, every three of this bottom sediment line of flower is one group, and bottom sediment line can use the line of three kinds of colors to carry out cross-stitch work, it is simple to differentiate the order of bottom sediment line；Often organizing lined three row lattice is one group, and ground portion chooses first row lattice, has dark flower part to choose secondary series lattice, and the 3rd row lattice correspond to the leno heald of fine line.
Comprise the steps: step 1) preparation of raw material, select silkworm silk line according to the thread count of fabric；To consider during Fabric Design that density wants suitable, to reach to arrive greatly when knitting plain weave the effect of displaying figure, and penetrating effect can be reached when doup end；End count, when 30, adopts 2/30/33D silkworm silk；
Step 2) use and spend comprehensive and lie prostrate comprehensive combination flower originally, complete the weaving in ground portion and flower portion；The distance that weaving is batched before using wooden big dress circle loom, the dress circle of loom and machine is 1-1.2 rice；Spending to combine is divided into two groups to spend comprehensive, and later group hangs organizine in order one to one, and previous group hangs the organizine of odd number group by the mode twisted mutually；Spending and dispose volt to combine two panels after combining, be used for weaving the adornment flower skill of color latitude gold thread, silk pressing is floating long with control on color latitude；
Step 3) change originally of cross-stitch work knot, difference and the cross-stitch work to single pattern, a cross-stitch work part to pick pattern part, a part to pick leno heald part, utilize and spend this and spend comprehensive link, while jacquard weave, while the decorative pattern of is mentioned, ground tissue part is all mentioned, be made directly beating of throwing a spear；And the woven difference in stricture of vagina portion according to tissue, to be fabricated separately during pattern-making；For porter 16, broadwise 22, the artistic conception ratio of stricture of vagina portion (Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill part) is 32/22；And the artistic conception ratio 16/11 of ground portion (part secretly spent by diameter yarn)；
Step 4) the manual woven mode of weaving employing, especially when for ground portion doup end, part organizine is not mentioned completely or is connected with other organizine it is necessary to weaving person is by the control that element is comprehensive so that organizine opening is clearly easy to weaving.
Step 2) in, dress make method be warp and doup end elder generation 1:1 penetrate and spend and combine, doup end penetrates in leno heald again；Leno heald and spend comprehensive and fibroblast line, fine line adds up to 1.5 times of organizine number, flower this with fine line number, fine line is originally connected with flower again, has completed the opening of weaving pattern.
Step 3) in, stricture of vagina portion picks and picks for routine, and cross-stitch work knot in ground portion the method include the steps that ground portion secretly spends to spend with stricture of vagina portion and originally takes the same artistic conception ratio, and dark decorative pattern flower this bottom sediment line is two row lattice one group, first row lattice correspondence is without flower part, the dark knurling section of secondary series lattice correspondence；The 3rd row lattice cross-stitch work that a relative method is a kind of, uses special crossing heald device on loom to substitute.
Step 1) use special crossing heald device (leno heald model, it is made up of two groups of model subrack, use bamboo chip is connected, two groups of models link harness cord, control organizine rises and falls and forms the device of twisting), complete the doup end weaving of ground portion, the twisting of crossing heald device major control organizine, spending to combine and lie prostrate to combine and control rising and falling of organizine, crossing heald device coordinates to spend to combine weaves diameter yarn；Spending and dispose comprehensive four of volt after combining, be mainly used in weaving the adornment flower skill of color latitude gold thread, silk pressing is floating long with control on color latitude；Special crossing heald device, the length of doup needs to extend 3cm, and total length is to 57cm, fixing harness cord needs to increase length, and the organizine to control non-twisting is not hoisted, and length is 18.5cm, doup coordinates fixing twine helad to play fixation, and fixing doup length reduces accordingly, and length is 25.5cm.The leno heald opening that this size makes can make to reach 4cm, meets the weaving of the dark decorative pattern of diameter yarn；
Step 2) cross-stitch work knot part originally, use crossing heald device, cross-stitch work is accomplished by picking the knurling section of the knurling section of dark flower and color latitude, and the needs according to fabric knitting, dark flower part and adornment flower part can be drawn simultaneously, and adornment flower part (color latitude) cross-stitch work routinely ties this during cross-stitch work, dark flower every two latitudes of part are chosen once；Dark decorative pattern is that tissue carrys out flowering in combination, one latitude is by crossing heald device control, another latitude is by spending this by spending comprehensive control, when every two latitudes of dark decorative pattern choose one time, choose knit for there being dark flower part to carry out even number (the ground warp on fabric tissue), do not have dark knurling section to carry out odd number (doup end on fabric) to choose and knit, weave in conjunction with crossing heald device when jacquard weave；
Step 3) the manual woven mode of weaving employing, same that weaving person's requirement is higher, when for ground portion doup end, part organizine is not mentioned completely or is connected with other organizine it is necessary to weaving person is by the control that element is comprehensive so that organizine opening is clearly easy to weaving, the control of warp tension needs by thinking grasp, get hold of dynamics, the organizine that dark flower part of controlling well while doup end tissue is beaten up is not twisted so that it is flowering, lines are full clearly.
Beneficial effect: compared with prior art, the method for weaving of the Nanjing brocade diameter yarn of the present invention, possess following advantage: 1) and solve various problem of materials, adopt conventional woven method, select high-quality silkworm silk, utilize vegetable colour to dye；2) solving method for weaving and step, how to use to spend and combine and leno heald and ground weft intertexture, the operation of loom device is used；3) producing the leno heald of specific dimensions, difference is with common two through the leno heald of reeled yarn loom, and the opening of specific leno heald need to be a times of conventional leno heald；4) this pick of flower, this different with common decorative pattern flower of flower this, it is necessary to coordinate to spend to combine and rocket to carrying out tissue；5) coordinate the operational approach of Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill and leno heald, reach to weave color latitude and gold thread.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of the first method for weaving loom；
Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram that the first method for weaving spends that comprehensive, leno heald and organizine link；
Fig. 3 is the cross-stitch work schematic diagram of the first method for weaving；
Fig. 4 is the structural representation of the second method for weaving loom；
Fig. 5 is the crossing heald device schematic diagram of the second method for weaving loom.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, it is further elucidated with the present invention.
The weaving process of diameter yarn: draw respectively in artistic conception design process, according to process requirements, dark knurling section and adornment flower part are drawn respectively.Carry out cross-stitch work when cross-stitch work according to different tissues demand, carry out different cross-stitch work schemes according to different method for weaving.Leno heald or to spend comprehensive effect be mention doup end, doup end and parallel interweave and form ground-tint mesh, and dark flower part warp is formed on the spot with parallel, and the skill that adornment flower part recycling adornment flower swivel dish is knitted, coordinate volt to combine, the color latitude of weaving (Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill).Above two weaving mode, for loom structure from spend comprehensive different, two ways can be replaced, and is all up weave effect.
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, comprises the steps:
Step 1) raw material preparation
Organizine: throwing, polish, dyeing, rounding gold thread；The specification of organizine raw material, it is necessary to determine according to the thread count of fabric, the more big organizine of density is more thin, otherwise more thick, to reach reeled yarn part Openworks shape on fabric, plain weave part shape on the spot；
Dress is made: install, making crossing heald device, stricture of vagina combine model, Hua Zong, pass, lift, prepared by suspension column, upper warp；Several, draw fibre, pick up thin silk fabric, denting；The organizine of diameter yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e. warp and doup end, and all organizine to penetrate in hedge (volt is combined), and the effect of hedge is to cooperate with adornment flower (color latitude) and weaves, silk point between formation；
Method made by the first dress: penetrating in spending and combining, doup end penetrates in leno heald again ground warp and doup end elder generation 1:1；Leno heald and spend comprehensive and fibroblast line (fine line be used for link flower this), fine line adds up to 1.5 times of organizine number, flower this with fine line number, fine line is originally connected with spending again, has completed the opening of weaving pattern.
Method made by the second dress: doup end then to penetrate in crossing heald device, crossing heald device can make doup end normally mention, it is possible to makes the whole twisting of doup end, and every colored harness cord (fine line) is containing an organizine, fine line is identical with organizine number, and fine line and flower are connected and carry out Jacquard Weaving and make.
Step 2) Ridge tracing
Arrange including grain pattern, draw artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring；Grain pattern is drawn to be needed to draw respectively, and dark knurling section is different with the artistic conception ratio of adornment flower part, therefore to draw respectively.
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot is originally
Including playing ears or side handles of a utensil line (cotton thread makes, and is used for being through at bottom sediment line use, does parallel effect), lead bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, falling flower, parquets, knot originally；Cross-stitch work part needs different ground portion decorative patterns and stricture of vagina portion spent and picks respectively；(there is the part of decorative pattern in stricture of vagina portion) and picks and picks for routine, and ground portion (part without dark flower) cross-stitch work knot originally takes special mode cross-stitch work.
The first ground portion cross-stitch work method: design paper grain pattern horizontal expansion three times, every three of this bottom sediment line of flower is one group, and bottom sediment line can use the line of three kinds of colors to carry out cross-stitch work, it is simple to differentiate the order of bottom sediment line；Often organizing lined three row lattice is one group, and ground portion chooses first row lattice, has dark flower part to choose secondary series lattice, and the 3rd row lattice correspond to the leno heald of fine line；
The second ground portion's cross-stitch work method: ground portion secretly spends to spend with stricture of vagina portion and originally takes the same artistic conception ratio, dark decorative pattern flower this bottom sediment line is two row lattice one group, and first row lattice correspondence is without flower part, the dark knurling section of secondary series lattice correspondence.The 3rd row lattice cross-stitch work that a relative method is a kind of, uses special crossing heald device on loom to substitute；
Step 4) weaving
Including dragging flower, dish is knitted, is beaten up, take-up and let-off；Being that leno heald makes warp mutual twisting during weaving, drag colored mode and mention decorative pattern, respectively penetrate parallel, forming ground portion is two through reeled yarn, and dark stricture of vagina part is plain weave, and adornment flower part takes jacquard weave to coordinate with hedge, and employing swivel dish is knitted skill and weaved；
Step 5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, whole scald, inspection, packaging, warehouse-in.
Embodiment 1
As Figure 1-3, the first method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, comprise the steps:
Step 1) preparation of raw material, it is necessary to the silkworm silk line being suitable for is selected according to the thread count of fabric.To consider during Fabric Design that density wants suitable, to reach to arrive greatly when knitting plain weave the effect of displaying figure, and penetrating effect can be reached when doup end；In experimental stage, end count, when 30, adopts 2/30/33D silkworm silk.
Step 2) use and spend comprehensive and lie prostrate comprehensive combination flower originally, complete the weaving in ground portion and flower portion；The distance that weaving is batched before using wooden big dress circle loom, the dress circle of loom and machine is 1-1.2 rice；Spending to combine is divided into two groups to spend comprehensive, and later group hangs organizine in order one to one, and previous group hangs the organizine of odd number group by the mode twisted mutually；Spending and dispose volt to combine two panels after combining, be used for weaving the adornment flower skill of color latitude gold thread, silk pressing is floating long with control on color latitude；
Step 3) change originally of cross-stitch work knot, difference and the cross-stitch work to single pattern, a cross-stitch work part to pick pattern part, a part to pick leno heald part, utilize and spend this and spend comprehensive link, while jacquard weave, while the decorative pattern of is mentioned, ground tissue part is all mentioned, be made directly beating of throwing a spear.And the woven difference in stricture of vagina portion according to tissue, to be fabricated separately during pattern-making；For porter 16, broadwise 22, the artistic conception ratio of stricture of vagina portion (Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill part) is 32/22；And the artistic conception ratio 16/11 of ground portion (part secretly spent by diameter yarn)；
Step 4) the manual woven mode of weaving employing, requiring higher to weaving person, especially when for ground portion doup end, part organizine is not mentioned completely or is connected with other organizine, the person of weaving will pass through the control that element is comprehensive so that organizine opening is clearly easy to weaving.
Embodiment 2
As illustrated in figures 4-5, the second method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, comprise the steps:
Step 1) use special crossing heald device (leno heald model, it is made up of two groups of model subrack, use bamboo chip is connected, two groups of models link harness cord, control organizine rises and falls and forms the device of twisting), complete the doup end weaving of ground portion, the twisting of crossing heald device major control organizine, spending to combine and lie prostrate to combine and control rising and falling of organizine, crossing heald device coordinates to spend to combine weaves diameter yarn；Spending and dispose comprehensive four of volt after combining, be mainly used in weaving the adornment flower skill of color latitude gold thread, silk pressing is floating long with control on color latitude；Special crossing heald device, the length of doup needs to extend 3cm, and total length is to 57cm, fixing harness cord needs to increase length, and the organizine to control non-twisting is not hoisted, and length is 18.5cm, doup coordinates fixing twine helad to play fixation, and fixing doup length reduces accordingly, and length is 25.5cm.The leno heald opening that this size makes can make to reach 4cm, meets the weaving of the dark decorative pattern of diameter yarn；
Step 2) cross-stitch work knot part originally, use crossing heald device, cross-stitch work is accomplished by picking the knurling section of the knurling section of dark flower and color latitude, and the needs according to fabric knitting, dark flower part and adornment flower part can be drawn simultaneously, and adornment flower part (color latitude) cross-stitch work routinely ties this during cross-stitch work, dark flower every two latitudes of part are chosen once；Dark decorative pattern is that tissue carrys out flowering in combination, one latitude is by crossing heald device control, another latitude is by spending this by spending comprehensive control, when every two latitudes of dark decorative pattern choose one time, choose knit for there being dark flower part to carry out even number (the ground warp on fabric tissue), do not have dark knurling section to carry out odd number (doup end on fabric) to choose and knit, weave in conjunction with crossing heald device when jacquard weave；
Step 3) the manual woven mode of weaving employing, same that weaving person's requirement is higher, when for ground portion doup end, part organizine is not mentioned completely or is connected with other organizine it is necessary to weaving person is by the control that element is comprehensive so that organizine opening is clearly easy to weaving, the control of warp tension needs by thinking grasp, get hold of dynamics, the organizine that dark flower part of controlling well while doup end tissue is beaten up is not twisted so that it is flowering, lines are full clearly.
Claims (7)
1. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, it is characterised in that: comprise the steps:
Step 1) raw material preparation
Organizine: throwing, polish, dyeing, rounding gold thread；
Dress is made: install, making crossing heald device, stricture of vagina combine model, Hua Zong, pass, lift, prepared by suspension column, upper warp；Several, draw fibre, pick up thin silk fabric, denting；The organizine of diameter yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e. warp and doup end, and all organizine to penetrate in hedge, and the effect of hedge is to cooperate with adornment flower and weaves, silk point between formation；
Step 2) Ridge tracing
Arranging including grain pattern, draw artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring, grain pattern is drawn respectively；
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot is originally
Including playing ears or side handles of a utensil line, lead bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, fall flower, parquets, knot；Different ground portion decorative patterns and stricture of vagina portion are spent and are picked respectively by cross-stitch work part；
Step 4) weaving
Including dragging flower, dish is knitted, is beaten up, take-up and let-off；Being that leno heald makes warp mutual twisting during weaving, drag colored mode and mention decorative pattern, respectively penetrate parallel, forming ground portion is two through reeled yarn, and dark stricture of vagina part is plain weave, and adornment flower part takes jacquard weave to coordinate with hedge, and employing swivel dish is knitted skill and weaved；
Step 5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, whole scald, inspection, packaging, warehouse-in.
2. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: step 2) in, dress make method be warp and doup end elder generation 1:1 penetrate and spend and combine, doup end penetrates in leno heald again；Leno heald and spend comprehensive and fibroblast line, fine line adds up to 1.5 times of organizine number, flower this with fine line number, fine line is originally connected with flower again, has completed the opening of weaving pattern.
3. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 2, it is characterized in that: step 3) in, stricture of vagina portion picks and picks for routine, and cross-stitch work knot in ground portion the method include the steps that design paper grain pattern horizontal expansion three times, every three of this bottom sediment line of flower is one group, bottom sediment line can use the line of three kinds of colors to carry out cross-stitch work, it is simple to differentiates the order of bottom sediment line；Often organizing lined three row lattice is one group, and ground portion chooses first row lattice, has dark flower part to choose secondary series lattice, and the 3rd row lattice correspond to the leno heald of fine line.
4. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: comprise the steps: step 1) preparation of raw material, select silkworm silk line according to the thread count of fabric；End count, when 30, adopts 2/30/33D silkworm silk；
Step 2) use and spend comprehensive and lie prostrate comprehensive combination flower originally, complete the weaving in ground portion and flower portion；The distance that weaving is batched before using wooden big dress circle loom, the dress circle of loom and machine is 1-1.2 rice；Spending to combine is divided into two groups to spend comprehensive, and later group hangs organizine in order one to one, and previous group hangs the organizine of odd number group by the mode twisted mutually；Spending and dispose volt to combine two panels after combining, be used for weaving the adornment flower skill of color latitude gold thread, silk pressing is floating long with control on color latitude；
Step 3) change originally of cross-stitch work knot, difference and the cross-stitch work to single pattern, a cross-stitch work part to pick pattern part, a part to pick leno heald part, utilize and spend this and spend comprehensive link, while jacquard weave, while the decorative pattern of is mentioned, ground tissue part is all mentioned, be made directly beating of throwing a spear；And the woven difference in stricture of vagina portion according to tissue, to be fabricated separately during pattern-making；
Step 4) the manual woven mode of weaving employing, especially when for ground portion doup end, part organizine is not mentioned completely or is connected with other organizine it is necessary to weaving person is by the control that element is comprehensive so that organizine opening is clearly easy to weaving.
5. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: step 2) in, dress make method be warp and doup end elder generation 1:1 penetrate and spend and combine, doup end penetrates in leno heald again；Leno heald and spend comprehensive and fibroblast line, fine line adds up to 1.5 times of organizine number, flower this with fine line number, fine line is originally connected with flower again, has completed the opening of weaving pattern.
6. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 5, it is characterized in that: step 3) in, stricture of vagina portion picks and picks for routine, and cross-stitch work knot in ground portion the method include the steps that ground portion secretly spends to spend with stricture of vagina portion and originally takes the same artistic conception ratio, dark decorative pattern flower this bottom sediment line is two row lattice one group, first row lattice correspondence is without flower part, the dark knurling section of secondary series lattice correspondence；The 3rd row lattice cross-stitch work that a relative method is a kind of, uses loom top doup device to substitute.
7. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: comprise the steps: step 1) use special crossing heald device, complete the doup end weaving of ground portion, the twisting of crossing heald device major control organizine, spending to combine and lie prostrate to combine and control rising and falling of organizine, crossing heald device coordinates to spend to combine weaves diameter yarn；Spending and dispose comprehensive four of volt after combining, be mainly used in weaving the adornment flower skill of color latitude gold thread, silk pressing is floating long with control on color latitude；Special crossing heald device, the length of doup needs to extend 3cm, and total length is to 57cm, fixing harness cord needs to increase length, and the organizine to control non-twisting is not hoisted, and length is 18.5cm, doup coordinates fixing twine helad to play fixation, and fixing doup length reduces accordingly, and length is 25.5cm.The leno heald opening that this size makes can make to reach 4cm, meets the weaving of the dark decorative pattern of diameter yarn；
Step 2) cross-stitch work knot part originally, use crossing heald device, cross-stitch work is accomplished by picking the knurling section of the knurling section of dark flower and color latitude, and the needs according to fabric knitting, dark flower part and adornment flower part can be drawn simultaneously, and the cross-stitch work routinely of adornment flower part ties this during cross-stitch work, dark flower every two latitudes of part are chosen once；Dark decorative pattern is that tissue carrys out flowering in combination, and a latitude is by crossing heald device control, and another latitude is by spending this by spending comprehensive control, when every two latitudes of dark decorative pattern choose one time, choose knit for there being dark flower part to carry out even number, it does not have dark knurling section carries out odd number and chooses and knit, and weaves in conjunction with crossing heald device when jacquard weave；
Step 3) the manual woven mode of weaving employing, when for ground portion doup end, part organizine is not mentioned completely or is connected with other organizine, the person of weaving will pass through the control that element is comprehensive, organizine opening is made clearly to be easy to weaving, the organizine that dark flower part of controlling well while doup end tissue is beaten up is not twisted so that it is flowering, lines are full clearly.
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN109371525A (en) * | 2018-11-14 | 2019-02-22 | 南京云锦研究所有限公司 | Nanjing brocade drags hand electronization loom |
| CN109881339A (en) * | 2019-04-18 | 2019-06-14 | 中原工学院 | A kind of 3 D stereo twists loom and its twists organization method |
| CN113388943A (en) * | 2021-07-02 | 2021-09-14 | 浙江理工大学 | Lower opening mechanism and drafting method of fixed-twisting-group-free two-warp leno fabric |
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Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN109371525A (en) * | 2018-11-14 | 2019-02-22 | 南京云锦研究所有限公司 | Nanjing brocade drags hand electronization loom |
| CN109371525B (en) * | 2018-11-14 | 2024-05-14 | 南京云锦研究所有限公司 | Brocade hand-pulling electronic loom |
| CN109881339A (en) * | 2019-04-18 | 2019-06-14 | 中原工学院 | A kind of 3 D stereo twists loom and its twists organization method |
| CN109881339B (en) * | 2019-04-18 | 2024-01-19 | 中原工学院 | Three-dimensional hank loom and hank weaving method thereof |
| CN113388943A (en) * | 2021-07-02 | 2021-09-14 | 浙江理工大学 | Lower opening mechanism and drafting method of fixed-twisting-group-free two-warp leno fabric |
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