CN104726986B - A kind of high Silk-Like specialty yarn of regenerated cellulose staple fiber and fabric and its production method - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a kind of high Silk-Like specialty yarns of regenerated cellulose staple fiber, the yarn is designed as regenerating the short superpower twist yarn of fibre, yarn twist factor reaches 1.8~2.5 times of common twist yarn, and the production technology by twisting in advance, it is formed using concentric conical spiral as the yarn of main body structure.The present invention also provides a kind of fabrics being formed by weaving using yarn of the invention, by the ratio of warp and weft and the collocation of yarn variety, and are equipped with batch warping, sizing, gait, the processes such as woven fabric.High Silk-Like (crape) fabric of production, Fabric Style is true to nature, and crape face wrinkle is graceful, and sucting wet air permeability is better than chemical-fibres filaments Silk crepe shell fabric, and meets the needs of people's summer dress ornament new fashion.

Description

A kind of high Silk-Like specialty yarn of regenerated cellulose staple fiber and fabric and its production Method

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of high Silk-Likes of regenerated cellulose staple fiber (crape) to use specialty yarn, and with the yarn production Fabric；The invention further relates to the lifes that a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fiber produces high Silk-Like (crape) specialty yarn and fabric Production method belongs to textile field of textiles.

Background technique

Silk-Like fabric is for silk fabric, and weaving raw material used in general silk fabric refers to silk, Including mulberry silk, tussah silk, ricinus silk, cassava silkwormsilk etc.；Weaving raw material used in Silk-Like fabric is in chemical fibre Long filament, including polyamide fibre, terylene, viscose rayon ultrafine wire and shaped silk；Silk fabric according to fabric tissue, latitude and longitude combination, The silk fabric kind of processing technology and silk fabric face performance shape divides 14 major class；Wherein silk crepe is a critically important major class, is using flat Line or its hetero-organization, warp or latitude reinforce twisting or longitude and latitude is reinforced twisting, and in obvious crape, remorse and flexible fabric, subdivision have true Silk crepe de Chine, silk it is tall its, the green crape of silk, silk be along winding.

Soft touch, slim and graceful it is well known that silk fabric is soft smooth, pattern is rich and varied, wears nice and cool relax It is suitable, it is mainly used as summer shirt, nightwear, one-piece dress fabric and scarf etc., is the textile that people extremely favor；But silk produces Product are sufficiently expensive, and limits throughput, and in order to meet the majority of consumers' demand, Silk-Like fabric comes into being, Silk-Like face Expect that weaving raw material used is the long filament in chemical fibre: polyamide fibre, terylene, viscose rayon ultrafine wire and shaped silk.The present invention is ground Study carefully the performance of regenerated cellulose staple fiber, it is fine to carry out regeneration for the characteristic and its institutional framework and formation basic theory of real silk crepe de chine fabric It ties up plain staple fiber silk-like fabric and designs and produces test with specialty yarn, successfully produce a kind of new high Silk-Like (crape) Fabric specialty yarn.

Summary of the invention

It is an object of the present invention to provide a kind of high Silk-Like fabric specialty yarn of regenerated cellulose staple fiber and with this The height of yarn production spins true silk fabric (crape) fabric.

To solve the above problems, the technical solution adopted by the present invention are as follows:

A kind of high Silk-Like special effect yarn of regenerated cellulose staple fiber, it is characterized in that: the yarn is added by staple fiber It twists, it is a kind of superpower twisted yarn which, which is 1.8 times~2.5 times of general common yarn twist factor, Have two kinds of " Z twirl " and " S twirl ".

Further, the staple fiber is there are three alternative condition: (1) nature it is renewable can natural degradation cellulose it is short Fiber, various modified fibres or weaving cellulose modal or Lycoell fiber including viscose rayon and based on viscose rayon Class series staple fiber；(2) fibre number is generally 0.5dtex, 0.8dtex, 1.1dtex, 1.33dtex；(3) meeting (1), (2) Under the conditions of, fiber must soft, surface have quiet and tastefully laid out and soft pearlescent；

According to demand, using pure spinning or in which any two kinds or any two or more fibers scribbled.

The present invention also provides a kind of production method of the high Silk-Like special effect yarn of regenerated cellulose staple fiber, step masters It is coiled for the uniform moisture equilibrium at dry side of fiber bale breaking, opening picking, until cotton carding, until head drafting, two draftings, until rove, until spun yarn, until network Six steps of cylinder, innovative point are: the spun yarn step increases the superpower pre- twisting process of twirl；The winder step increases winder Tension adjustment control technique.

Further, the superpower pre- twisting process are as follows: Yarn twisting 1/2 between front roller and twizzle at start pre-add It twists, is formed in the superpower pre- twisting area in front roller spinning triangular zone；Pre- twist triangle zone and winding twisting area both ends are simultaneously with pre-add It twists speed and winds the speed that twisting area twisting speed ratio is 1 ﹒, 05~1 ﹒ 2:1 and twist, pre- twisting area fiber generates tangent direction friction Afterturn, and the twisting transmitted from bottom to top are formed using concentric conical spiral as the yarn of main body structure.

Further, the winder step increases pretension control technique are as follows: above automatic winder scissors support plate Influence of winding tension adjusting is added, yarn pretension strength of adjustment can adjust with torque spring, and the lateral force for adding to yarn is 3~ 10cN。

The present invention also provides a kind of high Silk-Like special effect yarns of regenerated cellulose staple fiber to weave crepe de Chine fabric, mainly Alternately weaved by warp thread, weft yarn, it is characterised in that: the weft yarn is superpower twist yarn: Z twists superpower 2 latitude of twist yarn, and S twists superpower 2 latitude of twist yarn, " Z twirl ", " S twirl " interval circulation；Wherein " S twirl " twist per unit ratio " Z twirl " twist per unit is ∕ meters of ∕ meters~40 Nian of 30 Nian high, Warp thread common twist yarn or low torque yarn, weave 1/1.

Further, the warp thread number >=13.1tex then uses low torque yarn, designs the yarn twist factor as common yarn twirl The 85% of coefficient, to increase the draping property of high Silk-Like fabric.

Further, the warp thread number < 13.1tex, with the common twist yarn of selection.

The present invention also provides a kind of works of the high Silk-Like special effect yarn weaving crepe de Chine fabric of regenerated cellulose staple fiber Skill, step is batch warping, sizing, gait, jet is knitted, perching, plaiting, is packaged seven steps, and innovative point is: step is such as Under:

A, weft preparing, weft yarn bobbin determine superpower twist yarn using the low heating flashes vapor dead twist technique of negative pressure It twists, is tested selection process, the dead twist technological parameter of the yarn determines are as follows: superpower twirl cheese is packed into kettle, is evacuated to 400Pa Afterwards, water is heated up to 65 DEG C of generation water at low temperature steam yarn steamings in negative pressure kettle, after keeping the temperature yarn steaming time 15min, then is heated up to 78 DEG C, After being evacuated to 500Pa, 25min is kept the temperature, it is spare that shifting yarn goes out kettle；

B, warping process, speed of beaming are 450 m ∕ min~500m ∕ min；

C, sizing operation, due to the design warp thread low torque yarn, starching is according to " reinforcement is coating, reduces filoplume, enhancing, guarantor Stretch " requirement, using it is based on converted starch, be aided with part propylene acids and minute quantity PVA slurry, cladding and infiltration are simultaneous It cares for, each area's tension adjustment is reasonable, the wet elongation of strict control are as follows: elongation ﹤ 1%, speed 55m ∕ min or so, upper cured afterwards, slurries are viscous Degree 7 ", pH value 7-8,90 DEG C of temperature, the rate of sizing 9%, regain 9.5%；

D, conventional process of gaiting；

E, weaving process, the bis- jet air-jet looms of ZAX-N-2C, 680 r ∕ min~710r ∕ min of speed, when upper axis, are stringent Standard operation, dividing sinker is uniformly without cross-direction yarns, and " Z " that weft yarn uses twists cheese and " S " twists the fixed position of two kinds of bobbins of cheese, Do not allow arbitrarily to change, weft yarn strictly presses 2 " Z twirls ", 2 " S twirl " intervals circulation；The main knitting technology of loom: 310 ° of opening time/ 290 °, warp tension 1200N, only 60 °~260 ° of yarn pin angle, 66 °~170 ° of main jet angle, main jet pressure 0.26~ 0.28MPa, 66 °~160 ° of auxiliary spray angle degree, 86 °~170 °, 106 °~190 °, 136 °~210 °, 160 °~240 °, 180 °~ 270 °, auxiliary 0.36~0.38MPa of the power of spraying, 216 °~222 ° of weft yarn angle of arrival；

F, other: arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.

The present invention also provides a kind of high Silk-Like special effect yarns of regenerated cellulose staple fiber to weave along winding crepe shell fabric, main Alternately to be weaved by warp thread, weft yarn, innovative point is: the weft yarn is that the Z that the present invention spins twists superpower twist yarn, warp The imitated common twist yarn of fiber used in the yarn present invention, weave 1/1.

The present invention also provides a kind of high Silk-Like special effect yarns of regenerated cellulose staple fiber to weave along winding crepe shell fabric Technique, step is batch warping, sizing, gait, jet is knitted, perching, plaiting, is packaged seven steps, and innovative point is: step is such as Under:

A, weft yarn bobbin sets twist to superpower twist yarn using the low heating flashes vapor dead twist equipment of negative pressure and technique, fixed It twists technological parameter to determine are as follows: superpower twirl cheese is packed into kettle, and after being evacuated to 420Pa, water is heated up to 65 DEG C in negative pressure kettle Water at low temperature steam yarn steaming is generated, the heat preservation yarn steaming time is 15min, then is heated up to 75 DEG C, is evacuated to 530Pa, 25min is kept the temperature, It is spare that shifting yarn goes out kettle；

B, warping process: speed of beaming is 400 m ∕ min~450m ∕ min；

C, sizing operation: speed 50m ∕ min or so goes up cured, slurry viscosity 7 afterwards ", 92 DEG C of temperature, the rate of sizing 9.5% is returned Damp rate 9.5%；Remaining is the same as embodiment 3；

D, it gaits process: strictly being operated when gaiting, prevent from misdrawing；

E, weaving process: the bis- jet air-jet looms of ZAX-N, the speed 690r ∕ r ∕ min of min~720, when upper axis, are strictly regulated Operation, " Z twirl " superpower twirl special yarn that dividing sinker is uniformly used without cross-direction yarns, weft yarn, loom knitting technology: 310 ° of opening time/ 290 °, warp tension 1170N, only yarn pin angle 60~260,66 °~170 ° of main jet angle, main jet 0.24~0.26MPa of pressure, 66 °~160 ° of auxiliary spray angle degree, 86 °~170 °, 106 °~190 °, 136 °~210 °, 160 °~240 °, 180 °~270 °, auxiliary spray 0.34~0.36MPa of pressure, 216 °~222 ° of weft yarn angle of arrival；

Arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.

Beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

(1) the development & production a kind of high Silk-Like of regenerated cellulose staple fiber (crape) the fabric special yarn of the invention that succeeds Line, this yarn have superpower twirl feature, and with the high Silk-Like of this yarn production (crape) fabric, Fabric Style is true to nature, with true Silk fabrics is the same, and crape face wrinkle is graceful, is presented quiet and tastefully laid out pearly luster, and feel is soft, elegant and high resilience, and sucting wet air permeability is excellent In chemical-fibres filaments Silk crepe shell fabric, conformality is better than silk crepe shell fabric, meets the demand of the new fashion of people's summer dress ornament；

(2) the present invention is raw material with regenerated cellulose staple fiber, and preferably three conditions: one, being necessary for renewable can drop naturally Solution has green, ecology, the staple fiber of environmental protection characteristic, including viscose rayon (and using viscose glue as the various transformations of carrier Cellulose fibre-is (3) described with yarn innovative point), weaving cellulose modal, (it is fine that surface is in pupa albumen to silkworm protein fiber The skin-core structure fiber of cellulose fiber), Lycoell fiber, the serial staple fiber such as Lay bamboo fibre, it is pure spin, two or more Fiber blend；Two, fiber must soft, surface have quiet and tastefully laid out and soft pearlescent；Three, fibre number is generally 1 ﹒ 1dtex ,≤1 ﹒ 33dtex, the < 1dtex of particular/special requirement；The regenerated cellulose staple fiber special yarn all met with these three conditions Line production Silk-Like (crape) effect is true to nature, shrinks by force after creasing rich in gloss, high resilience and soft, clothes as silk Ventilative with elegant and moisture absorption of dangling, high Silk crepe fabric silk style is true to nature, and material is environmentally friendly, renewable, meets environmental requirement；

(3) the present invention is while providing a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fiber high Silk-Like fabric specialty yarn, in order to These products can be produced, superpower pre- twisting process, pretension control technique have been used；So that yarn of the present invention is in addition to fiber spy Sign also has superpower twirl feature, and design twist factor reaches 1.8~2.5 times of common yarn, greatly exceeds critical twist factor, (area Not in general strong twisted yarn, it designs 1.5 times that twist factor is no more than common yarn to general strong twisted yarn, and general in critical twist factor value Left and right).

(4) the present invention when providing a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fiber specialty yarn and fabric, adopt by superpower twist yarn bobbin used It is set twist with the low heating flashes vapor dead twist technique of negative pressure to superpower twist yarn；It go on smoothly weaving production can, simultaneously Be conducive to energy saving.

Specific embodiment

It elaborates combined with specific embodiments below to the technical solution of invention.

Embodiment 1

Design produces a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fiber production high Silk-Like (crape) special type

19.5tex weft yarn: spinning Z twist yarn and S twist yarn respectively, designs twist factor Z twist yarn 750(170 twirl/10cm), S twist yarn is set Count twist factor 768(174 twirl/10cm),

Raw material: silk fiber: 1.33dtex × 38mm.

Process route:

Silk fiber uniformly arranges packet-FA002A type griping cotton machine-SFA035 type mixed cotton slitter-FA106C type opener- SFA161 type vibrating cotton box-A076F type lapper-FA321A type carding machine-TMFD81 type drawing frame (head is simultaneously)- TMFD81L type autoleveller draw frame (two simultaneously)-TJFA458 type fly frame-FA507B type spinning frame (installs superpower pre- twisting additional Device)-ORION automatic winder (installing pretension control device additional).

Technological parameter, production method

Silk fiber is placed in bale breaking in the environment of 65%-70% and places progress moisture equilibrium at dry side in 24 hours by cotton cleaning process

Blowing uses short route, grabs cotton Beater Speed 750r/min, mixed cotton slitter three Beater Speed 430r/min, 530r/ Min, 630r/min, comprehensive Beater Speed 780r/min, blowing temperature: 22 DEG C -25 DEG C, relative humidity: 65% -70%, cotton roll Dry Weight per Unit 396g/m；

Carding step, cotton carding licker-in revolving speed 680r/min, cylinder revolving speed 320r/min, doffing speed 22r/min；Licker-in choosing With AT5605 × 05611P needle cloth, Bearded-needle knitted cloth selects AC2025 × 1605P needle cloth, and cover board selects MCH42P needle cloth, Dao Fuxuan With the needle cloth of AD4030BR × 20290；Weight of card sliver 18g/5m cotton knot controlling is within 2/gram；USTER strip dry CV value 4. 6%；

Mixing in doubling step, drafting speed 300m/min；Two and Dry Weight per Unit 17.6g/5m；Four lower Prass-bar draft on three；Skin Before and after roller plus-pressure successively: 24KN, 40KN, 6KN-pressure bar, 40KN, 32KN, to guarantee enough curable grips；Roller gauge 7 ×14；Head and total draft multiple are less than number of doubling, and 1.8 times of back zone drafting multiple, two and 1.28 times of back zone drafting multiple, USTER strip dry CV value 2.8%；

Roving Frames, ingot speed 850 r/min, roller gauge 11mm × 28mm × 40mm, 1.2 times of back area draft, twist factor 78, rove Dry Weight per Unit 5g/10m；USTER strip dry CV value 4.5%；

Spinning process, yarn roller (d=25) gauge 19 × 35, use by 1.2 times of back area draft, ingot speed 13500r/min Soft elasticity roller, third gear pressurization: 140/100/120, Z twist yarn twist factor 750, S twist yarn twist factor 768；Test, which determines, stablizes life It produces, high quality and efficient ingot speed are 13500r/min；Ensure yarn twist CV value≤4.5%；Meanwhile in order to spin special type Yarn installs superpower pre- twister (the former patent No. 200910161586, the method for the production bending false twisting on ring spun yarn line additional And device, existing innovative technology realize technique of the invention using the device), element is twisted 1/2 between front roller and twizzle Speed ratio: 1 ﹒, 05~1 ﹒ 2:1 is twisted in place, superpower pre- twister twisting speed and winding twisting area, and spun yarn forms twisting process In, add simultaneously at the winding twisting area both ends that the superpower pre- twisting area in front roller spinning triangular zone and spindle, rings, wire loop are formed It twists, go on smoothly spinning can, twisting transmitting is rapid and uniform；Simultaneously because the effect of superpower pre- twister, fiber is super Under strong pre- twisting moment loading, twist triangle zone is shortened, and the initial stage twisting of fiber is different from general ring ingot and twists, but generates Strong tangent direction friction afterturn effect, and the twisting transmitted from bottom to top, the space structure of yarn change, and are formed with concentric Conical spiral is the yarn of main body structure, is different from common ring spun yarn and common strong twisted yarn；

Winding procedure, automatic winding cause to roll up since tension instantaneous variation is variable when winder is unwound for superpower twirl special yarn It is unstable around tension, fresh idea flower tail when cone yarn forming；Winder efficiency and winder quality are influenced, in order to solve problem above, is developed Yarn pretension adjusting controller: yarn pretension adjusting controller, yarn are installed above the automatic winder scissors support plate additional Line pretension strength of adjustment is adjusted with torque spring, and the lateral force for adding to yarn is 3~10cN.With reduce the unwinding of superpower twist yarn and The big ups and downs of tension when winding solve the fresh idea flower tail quality problems in winder forming, reach tube quality standard；Pretension The grid of adjusting controller simultaneously there is the twist to drive stepless action；Winder speed 1200m/min.

Yarn quality:

Single thread ultimate strength (cN): 210cN, USTER strip dry CV value (cv%): 10.8%.

Embodiment 2

Design produces a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fiber production high Silk-Like (crape) special type

9.8tex weft yarn: Z twist yarn and S twist yarn are spun respectively；Z twist yarn designs twist factor 750, (240 twirls/10cm)；S twist yarn is set Count twist factor 764, (244 twirls/10cm)；

Raw material (1) viscose rayon: 1.1dtxe × 38mm；

(2) Lay bamboo fibre: 1.33dtxe × 38mm；

Viscose rayon 85%, Lay bamboo fibre 15% are blended.

Process route

Blowing, it is mixed that 15% uniform intervals of viscose rayon 85%+ Lay bamboo fibre arrange packet-FA002A type griping cotton machine-SFA035 type Opener-FA025 type multi-mixer-FA106C type opener-SFA161 type vibrating cotton box-A076F type lapper- FA321A type carding machine-TMFD81 type drawing frame (head is simultaneously)-TMFD81L type autoleveller draw frame (two simultaneously)-TJFA458 Type fly frame-FA507B type spinning frame (installing superpower pre- twister additional)-ORION automatic winder (installs additional and adds pretension control Device processed).

Technological parameter, production method

Cotton cleaning process, Lay bamboo fibre, viscose rayon need to the abundant moisture absorptions of bale breaking in the environment of relative humidity 65%-70% Balance；The present embodiment is different from embodiment 1, and mainly two kinds of raw materials use Cotton blending in hopper, due to using Cotton blending in hopper, (1) cotton packet Two kinds of fiber qualities of arrangement in bale plucker are alternatively arranged by 85%/15% ratio uniform, (2) mixed cotton slitter in process route After increase multi-mixer；Other technological parameters are the same as embodiment 1；

Carding step, cotton carding licker-in revolving speed 680r/min, cylinder revolving speed 320r/min, doffing speed 22r/min；It is raw Item quantifies 18g/5m cotton knot controlling within 2/gram；USTER strip dry CV value 4.6%；Other technological parameters are the same as embodiment 1；

Mixing in doubling step, Double Drawing simultaneously close, two drafting Dry Weight per Unit 14.6g/5m；Drafting speed 300m/min； USTER strip dry CV value 3.2%；Other technological parameters are the same as embodiment 1；

Roving Frames, rove Dry Weight per Unit 4.1g/10m, twist factor 83；Roving Frames, 850 r/min of ingot speed, roller every Away from 11mm × 28mm × 40mm, 1.2 times of back area draft, twist factor 83, rove Dry Weight per Unit 4.1g/10m, USTER strip dry CV value 4. 8%；

Spinning process, yarn roller (d=25) gauge 19 × 35, use soft elastic roller, third gear by 1.2 times of back area draft Pressurization: 140/100/120, Z twist yarn twist factor 750, S twist yarn twist factor 766；Test determine steady production, high quality and efficiently The ingot speed of rate is 13000r/min；Require and manage as strict as possible twisting winding device, it is ensured that twist CV value≤4.5%；Meanwhile in order to Spun special yarn, installed superpower pre- twister (technological parameter is with embodiment 1) additional, fibre space structure changes, formed with Concentric conical spiral is the yarn of main body structure, is different from common ring spun yarn and common strong twisted yarn；

Automatic winder winding speed 1150m/min installs yarn pretension additional above automatic winder scissors support plate Adjusting controller, action and effect and embodiment 1 are same.

Yarn quality:

Single thread ultimate strength (cN): 122, USTER strip dry CV values (cv%): 12.4%.

Embodiment 3

Design produces a kind of high Silk crepe de Chine fabric: 170cm, 13.1tex × 19.5tex362/10cm × 220/ 10cm, weave 1/1；Weft yarn: Z is twisted, 170 twirls/10cm；S is twisted, 174 twirls/10cm；2 " Z twirls ", 2 " S twirl " intervals circulation.

Warp thread selects viscose glue R13.1tex low torque yarn, and yarn is this enterprise spinning, installs low torque spinning additional on spinning frame Device (patent No. 200910161586), feature are to design the yarn twist factor as the 85% of common twist yarn twist factor；It is general general The logical R13.1tex twist should be 105 twirls/10cm, and low torque yarn is 90 twirls/10cm, and purpose is to increase the drapability of fabric；

Process route

The extraordinary weft yarn 19. of weft yarn silk fiber 1.33dtex produced by the invention × 38mm high Silk-Like (crape) 5tex Z twist yarn and S twist yarn design twist factor: Z twist yarn 750(170 twirl/10cm), S twist yarn design twist factor 768(174 twirl/ 10cm)；

It is required that Z twist yarn and S twist yarn twist CV value≤4.5%

(1) weft preparing: the low heating flashes vapor dead twist of weft yarn bobbin negative pressure

(2) weaving process process: ASGA221(180) type beam warper-GA333 type sizing machine-G177 type gaits Machine-ZAX-N disputes gas loom-GA801 type cloth inspecting machine-G841 type folding machine-A75.2 type baling press.

Technological parameter, production method

Weft preparing, weft yarn bobbin set twist to superpower twist yarn using the low heating flashes vapor dead twist technique of negative pressure, Selection process is tested, the dead twist technological parameter of the yarn determines are as follows: in superpower twirl cheese loading kettle-it is evacuated to 400Pa Afterwards, water is heated up to 65 DEG C of generation water at low temperature steam yarn steamings in negative pressure kettle, after keeping the temperature yarn steaming 15min, then is heated up to 78 DEG C, vacuum To 500Pa, 25min is kept the temperature, it is spare that shifting yarn goes out kettle；

Warping process, product warping three are uniform: even tension, arrangement is uniform, winding is uniform, and especially even tension is related to The style and features for the quality such as fabrics cloth cover lines is clear, need exquisite adjustment tensioner, improve the uniformity of tension；Need pair simultaneously Burr is cleaned comprehensively and eliminated in all yarn paths of warping machine, to reduce strength loss and the production during yarn warping Broken end, and suitably reduce speed of beaming 500m ∕ min.

Sizing operation, due to the design warp thread low torque yarn, starching according to " reinforce it is coating, reduce filoplume, enhancing, guarantor stretch " Requirement, using it is based on converted starch, be aided with part propylene acids and minute quantity PVA slurry, cladding is taken into account with infiltration, respectively Area's tension adjustment is reasonable, the wet elongation (elongation ﹤ 1%) of strict control, speed 55m ∕ min or so, afterwards upper cured, slurry viscosity 7 ", PH value 7-8,90 DEG C of temperature, the rate of sizing 9%, regain 9.5%；

It gaits process, is strictly operated when gaiting, prevent from misdrawing.

Weaving process, the bis- jet air-jet looms of ZAX-N-2C, speed 710r ∕ min, when upper axis, strictly regulate operation, dividing sinker Uniformly without cross-direction yarns, " Z " that weft yarn uses twists cheese and " S " twists the fixed position of two kinds of bobbins of cheese, does not allow arbitrarily to become More, weft yarn strictly presses 2 " Z twirls ", 2 " S twirl " intervals circulation；The main knitting technology of loom: 310 °/290 ° of opening time, upper machine Power 1200N, only 60 °~260 ° of yarn pin angle, 66 °~170 ° of main jet angle, 0.26~0.28MPa of main jet pressure, auxiliary spray angle degree 66 °~160 °, 86 °~170 °, 106 °~190 °, 136 °~210 °, 160 °~240 °, 180 °~270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.36 ~0.38MPa, 216 °~222 ° of weft yarn angle of arrival.

Quality inspection:

Through to ultimate strength (N) 335, broadwise ultimate strength (N) 234；

Arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.

Embodiment 4

Design produces a kind of high silk-like crepon georgette fabric: 354/10cm × 267.5/ 165cm 9.8tex × 9.8tex 10cm, weave 1/1；Warp thread is common " Z twirl " yarn, and 126 twirls/10cm, raw material is viscose rayon (1.1dtxe × 38mm)； Weft yarn " Z twirl " superpower twist yarn, designs twist factor 750, (240 twirls/10cm), and the raw material of weft yarn is that the embodiment of the present invention viscose glue is fine Tie up the blended superpower twirl special yarn of 9.8tex of 85/ Lay bamboo fibre 15 (viscose rayon: 1.1dtxe × 38mm, Lay bamboo fibre: 1.33dtxe × 38mm), filling twist CV value≤4%.

Process route

(1) weft preparing: the low heating flashes vapor dead twist of weft yarn bobbin negative pressure

(2) weaving process process: ASGA221(180) type beam warper-GA333 type sizing machine-G177 type gaits Machine-ZAX-N disputes gas loom-GA801 type cloth inspecting machine-G841 type folding machine-A752 type baling press.

Technological parameter, production method

Weft yarn bobbin sets twist to superpower twist yarn using the low heating flashes vapor dead twist equipment of negative pressure and technique, sets twist Technological parameter determines are as follows: superpower twirl cheese is packed into kettle-is evacuated to 420Pa-water and is heated up to 65 DEG C of productions in negative pressure kettle It is standby that shifting yarn goes out kettle to raw water at low temperature steam yarn steaming (heat preservation 15min)-being heated up to 75 DEG C (vacuum to 530Pa) keeps the temperature 25min) again- With；

Warping process: speed of beaming 400m ∕ min is reduced；Remaining is the same as embodiment 3；

Sizing operation: speed 50m ∕ min or so goes up cured, slurry viscosity 7 afterwards ", 92 DEG C of temperature, the rate of sizing 9.5%, resurgence Rate 9.5%；Remaining is the same as embodiment 3；

It gaits process: strictly being operated when gaiting, prevent from misdrawing.

Weaving process: the bis- jet air-jet looms of ZAX-N, speed 690r ∕ min, when upper axis, strictly regulate operation, and dividing sinker is uniform Without cross-direction yarns, " Z twirl " superpower twirl special yarn that weft yarn uses, loom knitting technology: 310 °/290 ° of opening time, warp tension 1170N, only yarn pin angle 60~260,66 °~170 ° of main jet angle, 0.24~0.26MPa of main jet pressure, 66 ° of auxiliary spray angle degree ~160 °, 86 °~170 °, 106 °~190 °, 136 °~210 °, 160 °~240 °, 180 °~270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.34~ 0.36MPa, 216 °~222 ° of weft yarn angle of arrival.

Quality inspection:

Through to ultimate strength (N) 229, broadwise ultimate strength (N) 146；

Arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.

Claims (3)

1. a kind of production method of the high Silk-Like special effect yarn of regenerated cellulose staple fiber, step is mainly that fiber bale breaking is uniform Moisture equilibrium at dry side, opening picking are coiled, until cotton carding, until head drafting, two draftings, until rove, until spun yarn, until six steps of winder, special Sign is: the spun yarn step increases the superpower pre- twisting process of twirl；The winder step increases influence of winding tension and adjusts control technique； It is described superpower to twist pre- twisting process are as follows: Yarn twisting 1/2 between front roller and twizzle at start pre- twisting, be formed in front roller Spinning triangular zone is superpower to twist pre- twisting area；Superpower pre- twisting area and the winding twisting area both ends of twisting simultaneously to twist speed and winding in advance Twisting area is twisted the speed that speed ratio is 1.05~1.2:1 and is twisted, and the superpower pre- twisting area fiber of twirl generates tangent direction friction afterturn, and The twisting transmitted from bottom to top is formed using concentric conical spiral as the yarn of main body structure；The winder step increases Influence of winding tension adjusts control technique are as follows: adds influence of winding tension adjusting controller, yarn above automatic winder scissors support plate Pretension strength of adjustment is adjusted with torque spring, and the lateral force for adding to yarn is 3~10cN；The yarn by staple fiber twist and At the spun staple yam twist factor is 1.8 times~2.5 times of common twist factor, is a kind of superpower twisted yarn, there is " Z twirl " and " S Two kinds of twirl "；The staple fiber is there are three alternative condition: (1) nature it is renewable can natural degradation short fiber of cellulose, including Viscose rayon and various modified fibres or weaving cellulose modal or the short fibre of Lyocell fiber class series based on viscose rayon Dimension；(2) fibre number is 0.5dtex, 0.8dtex, 1.1dtex or 1.33dtex；Meet (1), (2) under conditions of, fiber Must soft, surface have quiet and tastefully laid out and soft pearlescent；

According to demand, using pure spinning or in which any two or more fibers scribbled.

2. a kind of technique of the high Silk-Like special effect yarn weaving crepe de Chine fabric of regenerated cellulose staple fiber, the superpower twirl of the technique The production method that the spinning process of yarn uses claim 1, the high Silk-Like special effect yarn of the regenerated cellulose staple fiber are knitted It makes crepe de Chine fabric mainly alternately to be weaved by warp thread, weft yarn, the weft yarn is superpower twist yarn, and Z twists superpower 2 latitude of twist yarn, and S is twisted Superpower 2 latitude of twist yarn, " Z twirl ", " S twirl " interval circulation；Wherein high 30 Nian ∕ meters~40 of " S twirl " twist per unit ratio " Z twirl " twist per unit ∕ meters of Nian；Its warp thread common twist yarn or low torque yarn, weave 1/1；Warp thread number >=13.1tex, then use low torque Yarn designs 85% that the yarn twist factor is common twist factor, to increase the draping property of high Silk-Like fabric；Warp thread number < 13.1tex, with common twist yarn；Its step be batch warping, sizing, gait, jet is knitted, perching, plaiting, be packaged seven steps, It is characterized by: steps are as follows:

A, weft preparing, weft yarn bobbin are set twist to superpower twist yarn using the low heating flashes vapor dead twist technique of negative pressure, are passed through Selection process is tested, the dead twist technological parameter of the yarn determines are as follows: the cheese of superpower twist yarn is packed into kettle-is evacuated to After 400Pa, water is heated up to 65 DEG C of generation water at low temperature steam yarn steamings in negative pressure kettle, after keeping the temperature yarn steaming time 15min, then is heated up to 78 DEG C, after being evacuated to 500Pa, 25min is kept the temperature, it is spare that shifting yarn goes out kettle；

B, warping process, speed of beaming are 450 m ∕ min~500m ∕ min；

C, sizing operation, due to the design warp thread low torque yarn, starching according to " reinforce it is coating, reduce filoplume, enhancing, guarantor stretch " Requirement, using it is based on converted starch, be aided with part propylene acids and minute quantity PVA slurry, cladding is taken into account with infiltration, respectively Area's tension adjustment is reasonable, the wet elongation of strict control are as follows: elongation ﹤ 1%, speed 55m ∕ min, after waxing, slurry viscosity 7 ", pH value 7-8,90 DEG C of temperature, the rate of sizing 9%, regain 9.5%；

D, conventional process of gaiting；

E, weaving process, the bis- jet air-jet looms of ZAX-N-2C, 680 r ∕ min~710r ∕ min of speed, when upper axis, are strictly regulated Operation, dividing sinker is uniformly without cross-direction yarns, and " Z " that weft yarn uses twists cheese and " S " twists the fixed position of two kinds of bobbins of cheese, does not permit Perhaps arbitrarily change, weft yarn strictly press 2 " Z twirls ", 2 " S twirl " intervals circulation；The main knitting technology of loom: 310 ° of opening time/ 290 °, warp tension 1200N, only 60 °~260 ° of yarn pin angle, 66 °~170 ° of main jet angle, main jet pressure 0.26~ 0.28MPa, 66 °~160 ° of auxiliary spray angle degree, 86 °~170 °, 106 °~190 °, 136 °~210 °, 160 °~240 °, 180 °~ 270 °, auxiliary 0.36~0.38MPa of the power of spraying, 216 °~222 ° of weft yarn angle of arrival；

F, other: arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.

3. a kind of high Silk-Like special effect yarn of regenerated cellulose staple fiber weaves the technique along winding crepe shell fabric, the technique it is superpower The production method that the spinning process of twist yarn uses claim 1, the high Silk-Like special effect yarn of the regenerated cellulose staple fiber It weaves and is mainly alternately weaved by warp thread, weft yarn along winding crepe shell fabric, it is characterised in that: the weft yarn is that Z twists superpower twist yarn, Z Twist yarn designs twist factor 750, and wherein weft yarn uses 19.5tex, raw material for the silk fiber of 1.33dtex × 38mm, and warp thread is fine Tie up the common twist yarn of spinning, weave 1/1；Step be batch warping, sizing, gait, jet is knitted, perching, plaiting, packing Seven steps, it is characterised in that: steps are as follows:

A, weft yarn bobbin sets twist to superpower twist yarn using the low heating flashes vapor dead twist equipment of negative pressure and technique, work of setting twist Skill parameter determines are as follows: the cheese of superpower twist yarn is packed into kettle-be evacuated to 420Pa after, water is heated up to 65 DEG C in negative pressure kettle Water at low temperature steam yarn steaming is generated, the heat preservation yarn steaming time is 15min, then is heated up to 75 DEG C, is evacuated to 530Pa, 25min is kept the temperature, It is spare that shifting yarn goes out kettle；

B, warping process: speed of beaming is 400 m ∕ min~450m ∕ min；

C, sizing operation: speed 50m ∕ min, after waxing, slurry viscosity 7 ", 92 DEG C of temperature, the rate of sizing 9.5%, regain 9.5%；

D, it gaits process: strictly being operated when gaiting, prevent from misdrawing；

E, weaving process: the bis- jet air-jet looms of ZAX-N, the speed 690r ∕ r ∕ min of min~720, when upper axis, strictly regulate operation, " Z twirl " superpower twist yarn that dividing sinker is uniformly used without cross-direction yarns, weft yarn, loom knitting technology: 310 °/290 ° of opening time, upper machine Tension 1170N, only yarn pin angle 60~260,66 °~170 ° of main jet angle, 0.24~0.26MPa of main jet pressure, auxiliary spray angle degree 66 °~160 °, 86 °~170 °, 106 °~190 °, 136 °~210 °, 160 °~240 °, 180 °~270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.34 ~0.36MPa, 216 °~222 ° of weft yarn angle of arrival；

Arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.