CN101634067A

CN101634067A - Method for processing pure mulberry silk

Info

Publication number: CN101634067A
Application number: CN200910099385A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 俞丹
Original assignee: HIGH FASHION SILK (ZHEJIANG) CO Ltd
Current assignee: HIGH FASHION SILK (ZHEJIANG) CO Ltd
Priority date: 2009-06-11
Filing date: 2009-06-11
Publication date: 2010-01-27

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for processing pure mulberry silk, belonging to the technical field of the processing of textile yarn. The technological processes comprise the preparation, the twisting I and the heat treatment I of a plurality of raw silk fibres containing sericin. The twisting direction of the twisting I is S twisting or Z twisting, the technological processes after the procedure of the heat treatment I at least also comprise the steps of silk combining I, twisting II and heat treatment II sequentially, and the twisting II adopts an S twisting direction or a Z twisting direction. By the two twisting steps and two shaping steps interposed in the two twisting steps, the twisting degree of pure mulberry silk monofil fibre which originally has no elasticity and is also very thin is increased by gradients, strand silk is thickened, internal stress generated during the twisting of each time is accumulated inside pure mulberry silk fibre in an increment way, and the whole procedure does not damage the fibre, thereby keeping the original characteristics of the pure mulberry silk fibre.

Description

A kind of processing method of pure mulberry silk

Technical field-

The present invention relates to a kind of processing method of pure mulberry silk, specifically relate to a kind of processing method of superpower sth. made by twisting type pure mulberry silk.

Background technology

As everyone knows, silk is native protein, the fabric that is made into common silk lacks elastic force and elastic recovery capability, influenced its extensive use in the dress ornament field, the silk twist influences the brute force of silk and the indexs such as elastic force of the fabric that is made of pure silk, the silk in different fibers and line footpath, its critical twist is different, increase along with the silk thread twist, its powerful and fabric elastic increase, but silk twisting is in case surpass its critical twist, the brute force of silk and all descend by the elastic force that silk forms fabric, but also the corresponding generation silk thread of meeting is pulled, wipe white, from thigh even broken end or the like defect, silk adds the higher limit of choosing the twist number man-hour and should count the scope definite from the maximum twist of concrete material, satisfy its corresponding powerful requirement simultaneously, really, enhancing of the silk line twist exists the limitation that is subjected to its fibre structure restriction.

In existing elastic force silk line processing, a kind of process route is that the silk line is carried out physics and chemical Treatment, and another kind of method is with silk line and the compound elastic filament of making of elastic fibers (as spandex).The raw silk that more commonly will contain silk gum with preceding a kind of method towards S to or Z to twisting, and after closing again towards Z twist with the fingers to or S twist with the fingers to twisting, so after the processing of repeated multiple times, concise through the aqueous solution that contains silk scouring agent again, because following the thinking of this industry tradition, twisting operation in road, front and back carries out, twist direction is opposite, the merit that twisting operation in road is done silk like this can not be stored in fibrous inside fully with the form of potential energy, though its effect is to make to handle lining that back silk line is made into to have feel abundant, fluffy effective and characteristics that elasticity recovery is good, but there is not the spring return power after tensile-elasticity and the stretching, only owing to the back stretch that has after certain bulking intensity has pressurized; It is good to have a tensile-elasticity with the back elastic force silk line made of a kind of method, the good advantage of elastic recovery, but the elastic force synthetic fiber belong to the pure natural and renewable fiber of non-green, environmental protection, and owing to contain a certain amount of elastic fibers and knit its gas permeability of product, wearing comfort, hygroscopicity and the heat insulating ability made and all have to a certain degree and to descend.

Summary of the invention

The technical problem to be solved in the present invention is the limitation at above-mentioned prior art, provide a kind of pure mulberry silk that does not contain any elastic force synthetic fiber that makes both to keep its primary characteristic, give the processing method of a kind of superpower sth. made by twisting type pure mulberry silk of this silk fiber accumulated inside energy again.

In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention is achieved by the following technical solutions:

A kind of processing method of pure mulberry silk, technological process comprises the some raw silk fibers preparations that contain silk gum, twisting I and heat treatment I, the sth. made by twisting of twisting I is to twisting with the fingers for S or the Z sth. made by twisting, after heat treatment I operation, at least also comprise doubling I, twisting II and heat treatment II step successively, twisting II adopt S twist with the fingers to or Z twist with the fingers to.

The above-mentioned some raw silk fibers that contain silk gum are two monofilament that specification is identical, twisting I is processed into 1/20/22D mulberry silk 450T/10cm S or Z with every monofilament, heat treatment I is that monofilament carries out loose formula steam shaping in steam box, setting process is set to temperature: 90 ℃-100 ℃, and the time: 90 minutes-100 minutes.

Above-mentioned doubling I step is will be merged into 1 thigh silk via two monofilament of twisting I and heat treatment I step on doubling winder, twisting II is twisted to the thigh silk [(1/20/22D mulberry silk 450T/10cm S or Z) * 2] 360T/10cm S or Z, heat treatment II is this strand silk loose formula steam shaping in steam box., setting process is set to temperature: 90 ℃-95 ℃, and the time: 90 minutes-95 minutes.

The present invention has following beneficial effect:

After adding near critical twist on direction of monfil, again monfil is in and in steam box, carries out steam shaping under the low-tension state, typing helps the internal stress of twisting is accumulated on the monfil on the one hand, finishing nature with monfil shrinks the internal stress twist and fixes and be stored in fibrous inside, impel silk gum to dissolve on the other hand at a certain temperature, back silk gum structure rearranges and coats fibroin thereby typing finishes, and processes smoothly for subsequent handling to create conditions.

And twist operation once more behind monofilament after the typing and the one-tenth strand silk, and twist direction and the preceding working procedure of strand silk are that the twist direction of monfil is identical, after the twisting of thigh silk finishes, be placed on and under the low-tension state, carry out steam shaping in the steam box, typing helps the internal stress of thigh silk twisting is accumulated on the fiber on the one hand, and finish nature with the thigh silk and shrink internal stress twist and fix and be stored in a burst silk inside, impel silk gum to dissolve on the other hand at a certain temperature, former monofilament after typing finishes in strand silk is together bonded to each other securely just, and this is the smooth processing for subsequent handling.

Former pure mulberry silk monfil is not only not had elasticity but also very thin, twist on twist doubling technology by this technology of breaking the normal procedure of the present invention, form the thigh silk of continuous chap, the internal stress of each twist on twist accumulates in a burst silk inside configuration, and the monofilament formation twist gradient in the thigh silk of this continuous chap enhances effect, thereby whole operation is not damaged fiber and is kept the original characteristic of silk fiber, this burst silk weaving is become grey cloth, after post processing such as come unstuck, just have the pure mulberry silk silk shell fabric of natural elasticity style again.

The specific embodiment

Describe process of the present invention below in detail.

A kind of processing method of pure mulberry silk, carry out following steps successively:

1), prepares two 1/20/22D pure mulberry silk raw silk monofilament bobbin silk raw materials that contain silk gum, certainly the specification of every pure mulberry silk raw silk bobbin silk can be selected in (1-5)/20/22D, this preferred embodiment is all to select the 1/20/22D pure mulberry silk for use, this is that its critical twist value is big more because the fiber number of raw material is more little.

2), single twisting I

Respectively every monofilament is twisted under certain pretension, the twist is 450T/10cm (the critical twist value of this monofilament is 510T/10cm), sth. made by twisting is to twist with the fingers (or being the Z sth. made by twisting) for S, single twisting I both can also can carry out on twisting frame on the two-for-one twister, and the monofilament after the twisting toughens up and flexible.

3), heat treatment I

Two monofilament that are under the low-tension state of above-mentioned twisting are put into carry out the steam typing in the Wet-dry steam box, setting process is set to: 90 ℃-100 ℃ of temperature, 90 minutes-100 minutes time.

Typing helps the internal stress of twisting is accumulated on the monfil on the one hand, and finish nature with fiber and shrink the internal stress twist and fix and be stored in fibrous inside, impel silk gum just to dissolve on the other hand at a certain temperature, after finishing, typing treats that monofilament cools off naturally, silk gum in the monofilament coats fibroin again, for the thigh silk twisting II behind the follow-up doubling I has created condition smoothly.

4), doubling I

With above-mentioned through twisting I, heat treatment I cross two have only the twist, twist with the fingers to monofilament be merged into 1 bifilar silk, doubling is carried out on doubling winder.

5), bifilar silk twisting II

Bifilar silk behind the doubling I is twisted, the twist is 360T/10cm, sth. made by twisting is to twist with the fingers (or being the Z sth. made by twisting) for S, twist direction and the preceding working procedure of strand silk is that the twist direction of monfil is identical, therefore, broken through conventional twisting thinking, burst silk twisting both can also can carried out on twisting frame on the two-for-one twister.

6), heat treatment II

The bifilar silk of above-mentioned twisting is put into carries out the steam typing in the Wet-dry steam box, setting process is set to: 90 ℃-95 ℃ of temperature, the time: 90 minutes-95 minutes, similarly, the thigh silk that is wrapped on the bobbin was under the low-tension state.

Typing helps the internal stress that the twisting of thigh silk is produced is accumulated on the fiber on the one hand, and when finishing nature and shrink with the thigh silk, internal stress fixed be stored in strand inside, form burst moulding internal stress of silk, impel silk gum just to dissolve on the other hand at a certain temperature, cooling naturally of strand silk is treated in typing after finishing, and the former monofilament in strand silk is together bonded to each other securely just, provides guarantee smoothly for what road down became an operation.

According to arts demand, with the bifilar silk of the step 6) gained circulating process that doubling → multiply silk twisting → steam box finalizes the design that can also continue to follow up, and it is every through a circulating process, the thigh silk becomes thicker, in strand silk on the ratio of twist of monofilament a circulation time enhance in gradient, the internal stress that is produced during all previous twisting all accumulates in fibre structure inside.

7), rewinding

Promptly change over to after the thigh silk cools off naturally and be processed into bobbin silk finished product on the precision cone winder.

Claims

1, a kind of processing method of pure mulberry silk, technological process comprises the some raw silk fibers preparations that contain silk gum, twisting I and heat treatment I, the sth. made by twisting of twisting I is to twisting with the fingers for S or the Z sth. made by twisting, it is characterized in that: after heat treatment I operation, at least also comprise doubling I, twisting II and heat treatment II step successively, twisting II adopt S twist with the fingers to or Z twist with the fingers to.

2, the processing method of a kind of pure mulberry silk as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: the described some raw silk fibers that contain silk gum are two monofilament that specification is 1/20/22D, described through twisting behind the I the twist and twist with the fingers to being 450T/10cm S or Z, described heat treatment I is that monofilament carries out loose formula steam shaping in steam box, setting process is set to temperature: 90 ℃-100 ℃, and the time: 90 minutes-100 minutes.

3, the processing method of a kind of pure mulberry silk as claimed in claim 2, it is characterized in that: described doubling I step is will be merged into 1 thigh silk via two monofilament that twisting I and heat treatment I cross on doubling winder, described twisting II is twisted to the thigh silk [(1/20/22D mulberry silk 450T/10cm S or Z) * 2] 360T/10cm S or Z, described heat treatment II is strand silk loose formula steam shaping in steam box, setting process is set to temperature: 90 ℃-95 ℃, and the time: 90 minutes-95 minutes.