CN104644500A - Plant moisturizing composition and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Plant moisturizing composition and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
the invention discloses a plant moisturizing composition which is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 25.0-35.0% of a fragrant citrus extract, 15-20% of an algae extract, 10-14% of a chamomilla recutita flower extract, 5-9% of a gynostemma pentaphylla leaf extract, 3-7% of an abelmoschus esclentus fruit extract, 0.01-0.1% of a polyglutamic acid, and the balance of deionized water. A preparation method of the plant moisturizing composition comprises the following steps: A, taking the deionized water by weight percentage, and heating the deionized water to 45-55 DEG C; B, continuing to add the fragrant citrus extract, the algae extract, the chamomilla recutita flower extract, the gynostemma pentaphylla leaf extract, the abelmoschus esclentus fruit extract and the polyglutamic acid in a weight ratio; and continuing to stir for 10-20 min at a temperature of 45-55 DEG C and a rotating speed of 40 r/min until the materials are uniformly mixed; and C, reducing the temperature to room temperature, so that a finished product of the plant moisturizing composition is obtained.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of moisture-keeping composition and preparation method thereof, particularly relate to a kind of moisture-keeping composition adopting plant extract composite and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
In the world today cosmetics and skin care item to the mankind beautify and skin protection plays vital effect, beauty treatment has become one of 21 century ten big hot topic industry.In the process of rapid economic development, the Cosmetic Market of China from small to large, from weak to strong, grow up strong and sturdy just like the mushrooms after rain, and brand emerges in an endless stream by cosmetic industry, and the Cosmetic Market of China has become maximum market, the whole world at present.
Along with domestic consumer to the cognition of the daily use chemicals industries such as cosmetics be familiar with, increasing consumer pays close attention to more to safety, health, effective care method, especially the appearance of plants herb class skin care item, further promotes the fast development of cosmetic industry.China has abundant Chinese herbal medicine resource, and the annual rate of growth of Chinese herbal medicine cosmetic is up to 60%.Therefore the cosmetics Worth Expecting of natural plant kind, will have larger development potentiality and the market space from now on.
From the Cosmetic Market of nearly 2 years, the trend that natural cosmetics will become people and consume from now on undoubtedly.Natural cosmetics extracts from natural plants, can play the effects such as nutrition protection and skin care, the functional component that zest will be caused to damage to skin again to the skin of human body.Therefore the vegetalization cosmetic extracting natural component from plant is the method for most scientific, most environmental protection.
Active matter on the market for moisturizing is of a great variety, but a lot of people still cannot for oneself selecting a kind of product of satisfaction.Trace it to its cause, trace it to its cause, mainly effect single not collaborative, weak effect, poor permeability, not gentlely have stimulation etc.
It is believed that xerosis cutis lacks lipid material by skin surface and causes in the past, current research shows, xerodermatic true cause is the water deficient in horny layer.Moisture in human body skin by the mode that is combined with wetting agent absorb by horny layer, if the link produced problem of wetting agent, just cannot keep moisture, will inevitably xerosis cutis be caused.By adding moisturizing ingredient in cosmetics, can the unlikely drying of available protecting skin, therefore wetting agent is the important ingredients of cosmetics.
Common cosmetic humectant mainly contains: the biochemical class of nature moisturizing factor, amino acids, polyalcohols and macromolecule:
1, nature moisturizing factor
Nature moisturizing factor, refers to moisturizing ingredient contained in the horny layer of skin own, not single composition, and main composition has aminoacid, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, sodium lactate, carbamide etc.Nature moisturizing factor has hygroscopicity at skin epidermis and horny layer, and has regulatory function to skin acid value, and skin-friendly is splendid.But the nature moisturizing factor adopted at present mostly is water miscible small molecule structure, and moistening effect is limited.
2, amino acid humectant
Aminoacid is the important component of the monomer of protein, organism.Concerning skin, there is the basic effect relaxing external substance injury.Suitable aminoacid, to impaired cutin have assist repair effect, so extensively use by cosmetics circle.Current cosmetics circle are applied as the aminoacid of wetting agent, have the amino acid polymer of small-molecular-weight aminoacid and macromolecule.The wetting agent belonging to amino acids has protide, such as vegetable protein, soybean protein, animal proteinum, hydrolyzed protein etc.The source cost of this class wetting agent is higher, so be regarded as more precious wetting agent.In order to prevent rotten and be polluted, usually need the antiseptic and antibiotic agent adding higher concentration to prevent from going bad, therefore have and easily cause irritated potential risk.In addition using moisturizing as object, the moistening effect of amino acids wetting agent, more limited, and cannot take effect immediately.
3, polyalcohols
This element of the first species obtains easily, and industrialization manufacture that can be a large amount of, cheap, safety is high.Shortcoming is the humidity effect that moistening effect is easier to by environment.When the relative humidity of environment is too low, the effect retaining hydrone can decline.In addition, the object of efficient moisture-retention be reached, be limited to mechanism itself, more difficultly to reach.Long-time moistening effect is also undesirable, and common polyalcohols wetting agent has: glycerol, butanediol, Polyethylene Glycol, propylene glycol, hexanediol, xylitol, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol etc.
4, the biochemical class of macromolecule
A now widely used class wetting agent product, mainly takes from the composition of dermal layer of the skin, such as ceramide, collagen protein, mucopolysaccharide body (also known as matter acid), hyaluronic acid, glycoprotein and chondroitin sulfate etc.Advantage is Be very effective, safety, but price costliness all very.
Chitosan is unique a large amount of basic amine group polysaccharide existed in natural polysaccharide, there is the performances such as the antibiotic property of good biocompatibility, biological degradability and wide spectrum, these performances make it as natural antibacterial, anti-biotic material, very wide in the application prospect in the fields such as medical treatment, food, cosmetics.In addition, chitosan is also efficient wetting agent.But because chitosan is water insoluble and most of organic solvent, be only dissolved in rare hydrochloric acid, acetic acid and most of organic acid, this dissolubility constrains the range of application of chitosan to a great extent.
Glycolic acid (hydroxyacetic acid, glycolic) is a kind of organic acid, is the minimum fruit acid of molecule, has splendid affinity, easily go deep into skin, therefore have certain maintainability to skin.Namely one of Main Function of glycolic acid is accelerate old useless horn cell to come off, promote the metabolic speed of epithelial cell, impel skin to upgrade, therefore can improve the pigementation after hyperkeratosis, coarse obscure, black speck and inflammation or exception, make skin become smooth bright.Improving in aged skin, can stimulate the hypertrophy of hyaluronic acid, acid mucus polysaccharide, collagen protein and elastic fibers because of glycolic acid and rearrange, it is flexible that skin becomes consolidation, and microgroove and wrinkle also can reduce with work.In addition, due to the increase of hyaluronic acid, the water holding capacity of skin also promotes thereupon, can alleviate xerodermatic puzzlement to a certain extent.But glycolic acid moistening effect is not remarkable.
Abelmoschus esculentus is annual herb plant, has another name called Abelmoschus esculentus, swordweed, Abelmoschus esculentus（L.） Moench, Herba Lysimachiae Clethroids (Radix Seu Herba Lysimachiae Clethroidis) etc.All there is the distribution and cultivation of Abelmoschus esculentus the southern and northern various places of China, American is referred to as " plant viagra ", Japanese is referred to as " Green Ginseng ", and it is also decided to be athletic first-selected vegetable by many countries, is a kind of new type of health vegetable with better nutritivity and medical value.The functional component such as rich in proteins, fat, carbohydrate, vitamin, mineral and dietary fiber, flavone, pectin, polysaccharide in Abelmoschus esculentus, the mucoid material be rich in the tender pod of particularly Abelmoschus esculentus, it is the mixture by poly galactose, galactan and arabinan and pectin, wherein pectin is a kind of soluble fiber, it can promote the excretion of organic substance in body, reduce the accumulation of toxin, reduce the content of blood glucose and cholesterol.Glutinous sliding juice can help digest, and prevents constipation.Have that cancer is anticancer, kidney invigorating and YANG supporting, enhancing immunity, the effect such as aid digestion.Water-soluble fibre pectin in Abelmoschus esculentus, polysaccharide also have good health-care effect to skin, tender okra fruit are smashed to pieces taking juice and are used for that skin protection has unique looks improving and the skin nourishing, increases skin elasticity and slow down aging, dispels moth patch on the skin, makes skin-whitening, delicate effect.
Nature food is nontoxic.The character of Sargassum extracting powder (CAS:92128-82-0): 1, this product is pale powder, in Sargassum special taste 2, containing alginic acid, calcium, ferrum, iodine, vitamin B complex, eicosapentaenoic acid, each seed amino acid and laminine (i.e. laminine), taurine, betanin etc.3, because of containing more sodium glutamate, therefore the delicate flavour of approximate sodium glutamate is had.
By above analysis, we find, the active matter on the market for moisturizing is of a great variety, but a lot of people still cannot for oneself selecting a kind of product of satisfaction.Trace it to its cause, mainly poor, the effect of the single each component concertedness of effect not obviously, poor permeability and have stimulation etc.At present plant extract is combined, be used for the also less of skin moisture-keeping purposes by the proportioning of science.
Summary of the invention
In order to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of plant moisturizing compositions (also can be referred to as: plant moisturizing agent), it is prepared from by plant extract, significantly can increase the moisture-retaining capacity of skin, recover skin barrier function, eliminate the series of problems that dry and cracked, decortication, coarse, easy allergy etc. cause because of hydropenia, make skin recover the fine and smooth soft health status of elasticity water profit.
For solving the problem, the technical solution adopted in the present invention is as follows:
A kind of plant moisturizing compositions, each component is made up of following raw material by weight percentage:
Fragrant citrus extract 25 ~ 35.0%;
Algae extract 15 ~ 20%;
Flos Chrysanthemi extract 10 ~ 14%;
Leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract 5 ~ 9%;
Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract 3 ~ 7%;
Polyglutamic acid 0.01 ~ 0.1%;
Surplus is deionized water.
For above-mentioned formula, preferably, each component is made up of following raw material by weight percentage:
Fragrant citrus extract 31.0%;
Algae extract 18%;
Flos Chrysanthemi extract 12%;
Leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract 6%;
Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract 5.8%;
Polyglutamic acid 0.07%;
Deionized water 27.13%.
The preparation method of above-mentioned plant moisturizing compositions, comprises the following steps:
A: take deionized water by weight percentage and be heated to 45 ~ 55 DEG C;
B: by weight continuing to add fragrant citrus extract, algae extract, Flos Chrysanthemi extract, leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract, Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract, polyglutamic acid; Continue at 45 ~ 55 DEG C, stir 10 ~ 20min under 40r/min condition, to mix homogeneously;
C: treat that temperature is down to room temperature, obtains the finished product of described moisture-keeping composition.
Described fragrant citrus extract is fragrant citrus (Citrus junos) berry extract (temporarily without No. CAS), Japanese Fructus Citri grandis is adopted to be raw material, containing abundant ceramideⅡ and ceramide V, supplement and strengthen the effect of ceramide in skin, strengthening or reparation keratodermatitis, recover skin barrier function, improve the water holding capacity of skin.Citrus junos fruit method for preparing extractive: steps A: extract, concentrate.Japanese Fructus Citri grandis (formal name used at school: citrusjunos) is crushed to 80 orders, puts into extraction vessel, add the water being equivalent to raw material weight 10 times, be heated to 80 DEG C and carry out first time lixiviate, the time is 10h, isolates medicinal liquid; Second time adds the water being equivalent to raw material weight 5 times again, and be heated to 100 DEG C and carry out second time lixiviate, the time is 3h, isolates medicinal liquid; Third time adds the water being equivalent to raw material weight 1 times again, and be heated to 60 DEG C and carry out third time lixiviate, the time is 1h, merge extractive liquid, and concentrating under reduced pressure, obtains extractum; Step B: hydrolysis.Add in extractum and be equivalent to raw material weight 0.5 times, mass concentration be 30% sodium carbonate liquor be hydrolyzed, the temperature of hydrolysis is 80 DEG C, and the time is 1.5h; Step C: gained hydrolyzed solution enters HPD-400 type macroporous resin column and is separated, and washed resin post is colourless to effluent, then uses the Methanol+Water of 4 times of bed volumes (volume ratio is 5: 1) eluting, collect eluent, concentrating under reduced pressure, dry, obtain fragrant citrus crude extract; Step D: upper silica gel column chromatography after being dissolved by suitable quantity of water by crude extract, be the alcoholic solution eluting of 65% by volumetric concentration, thin layer chromatography detects, and collects flow point, merges flow point, dry, obtains the camellia oleosa seed extract containing ceramide.
Described algae extract is algae extract (CAS:92128-82-0), the multiple Sargassum compound collecting such as its red algae, chlorella, Brown algae form, the activity of elastase can be suppressed, keep skin elasticity, generation and filming function by promoting collagen protein reach desalination and tighten up microgroove effect, generate by suppressing B16 melanoma cells and play whitening function, can promote the generation of the skin moisture-keeping factor thus add water content of stratum corneum to have filming function concurrently, that suppresses transepidermal water scatters and disappears (moisture-keeping function).The preparation method of algae extract (CAS:92128-82-0): decocting in water after being rubbed by raw material, to make water-soluble substances stripping (also can use alcohol extraction method).After filtration, in filtrate, add dextrin as excipient, then spray-dried obtained.This method belongs to common practise.
Described Flos Chrysanthemi extract is Flos Matricariae chamomillae (CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA) flower extract (No. CAS: 84082-60-0), strengthen capillary resistance, opposing scytitis, resisting pathogenic microbes, reduce skin infection, anti-lipid peroxidation reacts, and extends the cells survival time.With reference to Chinese patent " coreopsis extract protects the liver the application with antioxidation " (open announcement number: CN102266369A, publication date: 2011-12-07).The preparation method of Flos Matricariae chamomillae is as follows: Flos Chrysanthemi crosses 50 mesh sieves through mechanical activation comminution, respectively with volume fraction be 95% alcohol reflux 3 times and with 60% alcohol reflux 1 time, merge extractive liquid, evaporate to dryness, obtains Flos Matricariae chamomillae crude extract, upper H103 macroporous adsorbent resin carries out gradient elution, with 35% ~ 95% ethanol elution, collect each eluent, concentrate through Rotary Evaporators, thermostatic drying chamber is dry, obtains Flos Chrysanthemi extract powder.
Described leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract is Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli (formal name used at school is: Gynostemmapentaphyllum) leaf extract (temporarily without No. CAS), there is the effect promoting that skin beauty water channel protein generates, improve the transmission of skin moisture, play moisturizing from inside to outside, moisture-keeping function.With reference to Chinese patent " purposes of a kind of leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract and preparation tumor thereof " (publication number CN102552371A; Publication date 2012.07.11) preparation method of disclosed leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract.The preparation method of leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract of the present invention comprises the following steps: get leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli 125 DEG C, the high-temperature and high-pressure conditions of 0.24MPa heat-treats 3 hours, by 85% alcohol reflux 3 time of the leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli after process by 8 times amount, each 1.5h, concentrated through Rotary Evaporators by the ethanol extract of heat treatment leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli, under vacuum, drying obtains leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract.
Described Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract is Abelmoschus esculentus (HIBISCUS ESCULENTUS) berry extract (temporarily without No. CAS), take from Okinawa Japan Flos abelmoschi manihot fruit, its moistening effect matches in excellence or beauty in hyaluronic acid and natural botanical source, be popular in American-European and Japan and Korea S market, level and smooth submissive sense of touch and hyaluronic acid similar.The preparation method of Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract adopts Chinese patent " cosmetics containing natural plant extracts " (publication number CN102113987A, publication date 2011.07.06) disclosed following technology: the preparation method of described Abelmoschus esculentus fruit extract comprises the following steps: by tender okra fruit to dry after the section of crosspiece face or air-dry, the Abelmoschus esculentus fruit of drying is placed in the container that power of motor is the smashing extractor of 800 ~ 1800W, add 20 ~ 60% aquiferous ethanol, starting switch, carry out room temperature texture's fragmentation with the rotating speed of 6000 ~ 10000r/min to extract 2 ~ 3 times, raw material is broken into 20 ~ 100 object granularities, if Abelmoschus esculentus fruit dry weight is 1kg, aquiferous ethanol consumption is 6 ~ 8 liters, extraction time is 1 ~ 5 minute, by extracting solution sucking filtration, discard filtering residue, the extracting solution obtained is at 50 ~ 80 DEG C, vacuum is adopt Reduced Pressure Concentration Device to carry out flash concentration under 0.090 ~ 0.095Mpa condition, regulate the feed liquor speed of solution to be concentrated, 1/5 ~ 1/6 of original volume is repeatedly concentrated into the flow of 150 ~ 300mLmin-1, continue that concentrated solution is carried out vacuum drying and become dry powder, with obtaining Abelmoschus esculentus fruit extract dry powder after mortar porphyrize,
Described polyglutamic acid is polyglutamic acid (CAS:25513-46-6), and adopt existing extraction method to extract, raw material can adopt fermented soybean.Polyglutamic acid has extremely strong moisture-retaining capacity, effectively can increase the moisture-retaining capacity of skin, promote skin health, its superpower moisture-retaining capacity is more better than hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic acid, and collagen protein (Collagen) HA), for the biotechnology moisturizing composition of a new generation, there is as brightening agent the performance of long-lasting antifungal gene, have more advantage than other polymer commodity.
Compared to existing technology, the beneficial effect of a kind of plant moisturizing compositions of the present invention is:
1, this plant moisturizing compositions adopts plant extract to be prepared from, not containing chemical addition agents such as antiseptic, to human body without harm; This plant moisturizing compositions significantly can increase the moisture-retaining capacity of skin, recovers skin barrier function, eliminates dry and cracked, decortication, these series of problems caused because of hydropenia of coarse, easy allergy, makes skin recover the fine and smooth soft health status of elasticity water profit.
2, plant moisturizing compositions of the present invention can smear separately skin use, also can add in other skin care item, be applicable to any one skin of health, be particularly useful for adding in skin-protection product, contrast use with the addition of product of the present invention and does not add product of the present invention, and skin elasticity, water humidity, sophistication, soft degree etc. are obviously heightened.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, the present invention is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1-3
Prepare embodiment 1-3 plant moisturizing compositions A, B, C respectively according to following table 1 Raw mass percent, preparation method is:
Table 1 (as follows): embodiment 1-3 Raw percentage by weight
1) by deionized water mix homogeneously be heated to 50 DEG C by weight percentage;
2) successively to step 1) add fragrant citrus extract, algae extract, Flos Chrysanthemi extract, leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract, Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract, polyglutamic acid in gained solution, continue at 50 DEG C, stir 15min under 40r/min to mix homogeneously;
3) be down to room temperature, obtain product: compositions A, B, C in embodiment 1-3 respectively.
Below, with reference to Chinese patent " a kind of high-efficiency moisturizing composition and preparation method and its application in cosmetics " (publication number CN102018632A; Publication date 2011.04.20) method disclosed in description the 0073 to 0081 section, Performance Detection is carried out to moisture-keeping composition A, B, C prepared by the embodiment 1-3 of this patent.
1. Detection of Stability
Heat resistant test: electro-heating standing-temperature cultivator 24h sample being put into (40 ± 1) DEG C, observes phenomenons such as whether having thinning, variable color, layering and firmness change, with the heat resistance of judgement sample after recovering room temperature.
Low temperature resistant test: sample is put into (-5 ~-10) DEG C ± electric refrigerator 24h of 1 DEG C, observes phenomenons such as whether having thinning, variable color, layering and firmness change, with the cold tolerance of judgement sample after recovering room temperature.
Centrifugal test: sample is placed in centrifuge, with the speed test 30min of (2000 ~ 4000) r/min, observes the separation of sample, point layer status.
Table 2: the Detection of Stability of plant moisturizing compositions
2. performance of keeping humidity detects
High frequency conductance determining instrument Skicon 200 (IBS Ltd) is adopted to measure keratodermatitis water content.Its measuring principle is because horny layer contains a large amount of electrolyte, and the electrolyte existed in water has electric conductivity, and this phenomenon also produces at skin surface, and after test probe and contact skin, the change of electrical conductivity reflects the hydration status of skin.Experimenter be 65, Guangdong Province health without dermopathic women, experiment condition is that the temperature and humidity of test period requirement environment is constant, and temperature is (30 ± 2) DEG C, and relative humidity is 30% ~ 50%.Test zone is skin of forearm, and size is the region of 5cm × 5cm.Statistical result is as shown in table 4, can find out from this result, and the cosmetics performance of keeping humidity utilizing moisture-keeping composition of the present invention to obtain is good.Not there is untoward reaction in experimenter.
Table 3: the statistical result (unit: %) that plant moisturizing compositions performance of keeping humidity detects
Ages, the skin quality of these 65 experimenters are different, but all significantly can increase the moisture-retaining capacity of skin, recover skin barrier function, eliminate the series of problems that dry and cracked, decortication, coarse, easy allergy etc. cause because of hydropenia, make skin recover the fine and smooth soft health status of elasticity water profit.This moisture-keeping composition is safe and reliable, widely applicable, excellent performance.
Plant moisturizing compositions provided by the invention, adopt plant extract be prepared from, significantly can increase the moisture-retaining capacity of skin, recover skin barrier function, eliminate dry and cracked, decortication,
The series of problems that coarse, easy allergy etc. cause because of hydropenia, makes skin recover the fine and smooth soft health status of elasticity water profit, waits outstanding effect.The present invention adopts that plant extract is composite to be formed, and can significantly improve moisture and the water holding capacity of skin, and have certain anti-ageing,
Whitening, repairing effect.
To one skilled in the art, according to technical scheme described above and design, other various corresponding change and deformation can be made, and all these change and deformation all should belong within the protection domain of the claims in the present invention.
Claims (3)
1. a plant moisturizing compositions, is characterized in that, each component is made up of following raw material by weight percentage:
Fragrant citrus extract: 25.0 ~ 35.0%
Algae extract: 15 ~ 20%
Flos Chrysanthemi extract: 10 ~ 14%
Leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract: 5 ~ 9%
Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract: 3 ~ 7%
Polyglutamic acid: 0.01 ~ 0.1%
Surplus is deionized water.
2. plant moisturizing compositions as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that, each component is made up of following raw material by weight percentage:
Fragrant citrus extract: 31.0%
Algae extract: 18%
Flos Chrysanthemi extract: 12%
Leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract: 6%
Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract: 5.8%
Polyglutamic acid: 0.07%
Deionized water: 27.13%.
3. the preparation method of plant moisturizing compositions as claimed in claim 1 or 2, comprises the following steps:
A: take deionized water by weight percentage and be heated to 45 ~ 55 DEG C;
B: by weight continuing to add fragrant citrus extract, algae extract, Flos Chrysanthemi extract, leaf of Herb Gynostemmae Pentaphylli extract, Abelmoschus esculentus berry extract, polyglutamic acid; Continue at 45 ~ 55 DEG C, stir 10 ~ 20min under 40r/min to mix homogeneously;
C: treat that temperature is down to room temperature, obtains described compositions.
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