CN103585053B - A kind of composition and method of making the same containing Herba Dendrobii extract - Google Patents
A kind of composition and method of making the same containing Herba Dendrobii extract Download PDFInfo
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- CN103585053B CN103585053B CN201310530200.3A CN201310530200A CN103585053B CN 103585053 B CN103585053 B CN 103585053B CN 201310530200 A CN201310530200 A CN 201310530200A CN 103585053 B CN103585053 B CN 103585053B
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, said composition can make skin hydropenia and the problem such as roughening, dry improves, and is highly resistant to oxidation, anti-aging in advance.Should containing the compositions of Herba Dendrobii extract, containing, for example lower component: Herba Dendrobii extract, described Herba Dendrobii extract obtains through solvent extraction, described solvent is selected from water, methanol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, n-butyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1, ammediol, 1,3 butylene glycol, acetone, ethyl acetate or its combination; Hydrolecithin and plant sterol.Can be good at promoting the third aquaporin of keratinocyte AQP3() expression, strengthen the penetrating power of cell, each component creates synergism together simultaneously, has good lock water, moisture-keeping function.The present invention also comprises the preparation method of above-mentioned composition, and the method technique is simple, cost is low, and the product made has fine qualities.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, specifically, the present invention relates to for the anti-aging a kind of lock water composition of the moisturizing containing Herba Dendrobii extract of skin moisture-keeping lock water, antioxidation and preparation thereof.
Background technology
Be in the people of high pressure and fast pace life, because the long-term daily schedule is irregular, diet is unhealthy and stress is large and under being subject to the situations such as chronic exposure, easily make the metabolism of skin be affected and skin moisture-keeping mechanism is sustained damage, thus easily dehydration causes pachylosis, drying.
Skin is made up of epidermis, corium and subcutaneus adipose tissue, and every layer all contains moisture.Modern study shows, having its source in of skin hydropenia: moisture retention structure and the water supply ability that is active and skin corium cell self of epidermal keratinocyte constantly weaken, the moisture circulating function of the water protein channel of epidermis cell is lost gradually, sebum film loses phylactic power defensive power, be unfavorable for that moisture infiltrates, epidermal keratinocyte structure is damaged, and skin corium cell cannot normal circulation moisturizing, causes skin hydropenia to dry up.
The scientist Peter A Gelei of Univ Johns Hopkins Med of the U.S. found the aquaporin of skin, aquaporin exists a kind of aquaporin (Aquaporin), have another name called aquaporin, a kind of protein (inherent memebrane protein) be positioned on cell membrane, cell membrane forms " duct ", controlled controlling the water circulation, in the turnover of cell, similarly is " the side Pu of cell ".Aquaporin transport moisture has critical effect, and it is just as the sponge structure of skin, and absorb transmission moisture continually, each second can pass through 3,000,000,000 hydrones.Foreign scholar studies discovery, the glycerol transport function of the third aquaporin (AQP3) plays critical effect to the barrier repair function after the moisturizing (hydration) of skin, elasticity and damage, and shows that glycerol is the determiner of horny layer water conservation and biological synthetic functional.
The effect of some modern studies to polysaccharide component is in recent years set forth to some extent, the high water absorbing ability of polysaccharide and good film property perfectly combine and can reach good moistening effect, vegetable polysaccharides is also applied to skin moisture-keeping just gradually, and polysaccharide is the main component contained by most Chinese herbal medicine, these all specify direction for finding skin moisturizer safely and effectively.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve the skin injury such as pachylosis, drying that skin dehydration causes, the invention provides a kind of in containing the compositions of Herba Dendrobii extract, the present invention simultaneously also provides a kind of preparation method of the compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract.
For solving the problem, the technical solution adopted in the present invention is as follows:
A kind of compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, containing, for example lower component: Herba Dendrobii extract, described Herba Dendrobii extract obtains through solvent extraction, described solvent is selected from water, methanol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, n-butyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1, ammediol, 1,3 butylene glycol, acetone, ethyl acetate or its combination; Hydrolecithin and plant sterol.
Through the Herba Dendrobii extract of above-mentioned solvent extraction, central containing dendrobium polysaccharide, dendrobium polysaccharide is combined by hydrogen bond and water brute force, pins moisture, thus reaches moistening effect.Dendrobium polysaccharide as regulatory factor, by promoting the third aquaporin of keratinocyte AQP3() gene expression, make it to synthesize more AQP3, increase the penetrating power of cell membrane, strengthen Water Cycle flowing, thus maintain the moisturizing state of cell membrane.
Hydrolecithin: well-known, phospholipid is extensively distributed in animal and plant body, and be the important composition composition of biological cell, it plays very important effect to the infiltration of metabolism and film.But the main component due to natural phospholipid is unsaturated fatty acid, so not resistance to oxidation, also unstable to heat, be difficult to be applied to cosmetics, for this problem, natural soybean phospholipid hydrogenation is obtained the high hydrolecithin of stability by us, can be widely used in cosmetics.Hydrolecithin extracts from Semen sojae atricolor, is a kind of naturally occurring emulsifying agent with anti-inflammatory effect.There is following effect: A, effectively can reduce stimulation, reduce the potential stimulus of other surfactants, and strengthen the antiphlogistic effects of oil-soluble active thing; B, have efficient moisture retention, the protection function of strengthening skin, for the metabolism of Skin Cell film provides material; C, Stratum Corneum have good affinity, and efficient soft effect, is improved effect to dry skin; D, phospholipid are natural grease plastid, can promote that skin is to the absorption of effective ingredient, improve the utilization of effective ingredient.
Plant sterol is the material that a class chemical constitution is close with cholesterol, and they are the active components synthesized by plant tissue self.Plant sterol is commonly used for Skin Cell promoter, Wound-healing agent, and stanol ester has moisture retention, and has good resistance to oxidation, can rebuild sebum protection and repair skin barrier, being therefore widely used as among cosmetics.There is following effect: A, short infiltration: plant sterol has very high permeability to skin, can keep skin surface moisture, promote skin metabolism, suppress scytitis, can anti-day erythema, skin aging, also have effect of hair growth promoting, hair care; B, wound healing: can promote wound healing, make hypertrophy, strengthen capillary circulation; C, moisture retention: its good control water characteristic makes it have outstanding moisture-keeping function; D, antioxidation: plant sterol has good antioxidant.
Therefore can be good at promoting the third aquaporin of keratinocyte AQP3(containing the compositions of Herba Dendrobii extract, plant sterol and hydrolecithin) expression, strengthen the penetrating power of cell, each component creates synergism together simultaneously, better than the moistening effect of a kind of compositions of or two kinds of these components separately, there is good lock water, moisture-keeping function.
Shown by a large amount of tests, the mass percentage of described Herba Dendrobii extract is 0.001-5%, the mass percentage of described hydrolecithin is 0.001-5%, the mass percentage of described plant sterol to be 0.001-5% be optimum proportioning, surplus is adjuvant, and effect of the moisturizing reached, lock water is the strongest.
In order to better reach lock water, moistening effect, described compositions also comprises adjuvant, described adjuvant comprises aqueous phase adjuvant, oil phase adjuvant and nertralizer, and described aqueous phase adjuvant is the combination of one or two or more kinds in deionized water, glycerol, carbomer, hyaluronate sodium, methyl hydroxybenzoate; Described oil phase adjuvant is one or more combination in silicone oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl heteroside; Described nertralizer is the combination of a kind of in triethanolamine and phenoxyethanol or two kinds.
Wherein, carbomer is the very important rheology control agent of a class, and the carbomer after neutralization is outstanding gel-type vehicle, has the important use such as thickening, suspension; Glycerol, has good water absorption, and moisturizing effect is very good; Hyaluronate sodium itself is one of formation of human body skin, is the widest glutinous sugar of one acidity of people's distribution in vivo, is present in the substrate of connective tissue, has good moisture-keeping function; Methyl hydroxybenzoate, has antisepsis; Silicone oil, has the compatibility of height in cosmetics with many components, reduce the sticky sense of product, and have certain moisture pick-up properties; Isononyl isononanoate, has unique many methyl branches structure, silk-like feeling, and dry and comfortable and extremely soft feel, has the effect of skin smoothing; Cetearyl alcohol or cetearyl heteroside, have suppression greasy feeling, reduces wax class raw material stickiness, the effects such as stable cosmetic gel; Triethanolamine is a kind of emulsifying agent, by the cream products of triethanolamine emulsifying, there is mastic exquisiteness, the feature of mastic brilliant white, the gel phase good stability that another triethanolamine and higher fatty acids or high fatty alcohol are formed, constant product quality, can hold additional ingredients proportion high.Triethanolamine is the most frequently used nertralizer containing acid high-molecular gels such as carbomers, and triethanolamine, by neutralizing with carboxyls such as carbomers, forms stable macromolecular structure, reaches the effect of thickening and moisturizing; Phenoxyethanol, has biocidal efficacies, uses as antiseptic.
In order to better enable above-mentioned composition act on skin, play good lock water, moistening effect, the described compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract preferably makes cream or unguentum.Cream or unguentum, directly be applied on skin, active component Herba Dendrobii extract, plant sterol and hydrolecithin wherein can be made to directly act on epidermis cell, the hygroscopicity that the compositions such as the glycerol simultaneously in compositions are good can strengthen the moisture of skin, cetearyl alcohol or cetearyl heteroside possess the effect of skin smoothing simultaneously, make the people smearing said composition can't feel the greasy feeling of other similar cosmetics, there is good skin moistening, moisturizing, salubrious and comfortable function.
A kind of preparation method preparing compositions cream containing Herba Dendrobii extract or unguentum, comprise the steps: that a. prepares aqueous phase: by deionized water, glycerol, hydrolecithin, carbomer, hyaluronate sodium and methyl hydroxybenzoate mix and blend, preferably mix and be warming up to 75-85 degree Celsius; B. prepare oil phase: by silicone oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl heteroside, plant sterol mix and blend, preferably stir and be warming up to 75-85 degree Celsius; C. described oil phase is added aqueous phase, stir, preferably, mixing speed is 2800-3200 rev/min, and mixing time is 8-13 minute, and is incubated 18-23 minute; D adds triethanolamine, stirs, preferably mixes and be cooled to 38-42 degree Celsius; E. add Herba Dendrobii extract and phenoxyethanol, stir, preferably, stir and be cooled to 27-33 degree Celsius.
The invention provides a kind of compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, following technique effect can be realized: can be good at promoting the third aquaporin of keratinocyte AQP3() expression, strengthen the penetrating power of cell, each component creates synergism together simultaneously, has good lock water, moisture-keeping function.Present invention also offers a kind of preparation method of the compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, the method is simple to operate, cost is low, and the product prepared has advantages such as feel is good, mastic is fine and smooth, brilliant white.
Below in conjunction with detailed description of the invention, the present invention is described in further detail.
Detailed description of the invention
Embodiment one: a kind of compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, is made up of following component: ionized water 1000 grams, glycerol 100 grams, carbomer 4 grams, hydrolecithin 2 grams, hyaluronate sodium 1 gram, methyl hydroxybenzoate 1 gram, silicone oil 50 grams, isononyl isononanoate 30 grams, cetearyl alcohol 8 grams, plant sterol 6 grams, triethanolamine 4 grams, through Herba Dendrobii extract 5 grams and the phenoxyethanol 6 grams of ethanol extraction.
Embodiment two: a kind of compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, is made up of following component: ionized water 1050 grams, glycerol 120 grams, carbomer 6 grams, hydrolecithin 6 grams, hyaluronate sodium 1.5 grams, methyl hydroxybenzoate 1.3 grams, silicone oil 46 grams, isononyl isononanoate 32 grams, cetearyl alcohol 9 grams, plant sterol 3 grams, triethanolamine 5 grams, through Herba Dendrobii extract 1.3 grams and the phenoxyethanol 7 grams of methanol extraction.
Embodiment three: a kind of compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, is made up of following component: ionized water 900 grams, glycerol 98 grams, carbomer 5 grams, hydrolecithin 5 grams, hyaluronate sodium 2 grams, methyl hydroxybenzoate 1.5 grams, silicone oil 40 grams, isononyl isononanoate 35 grams, cetearyl alcohol 7 grams, plant sterol 1.5 grams, triethanolamine 3 grams, the Herba Dendrobii extract 3 grams extracted through 1,3-PD and phenoxyethanol 5 grams.
Embodiment four: a kind of compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, is made up of following component: ionized water 950 grams, glycerol 102 grams, carbomer 3 grams, hydrolecithin 1 gram, hyaluronate sodium 2.5 grams, methyl hydroxybenzoate 1 gram, silicone oil 47 grams, isononyl isononanoate 28 grams, cetearyl alcohol 6 grams, plant sterol 4 grams, triethanolamine 3.5 grams, through Herba Dendrobii extract 4 grams and the phenoxyethanol 5 grams of acetone extraction.
Embodiment five: take deionized water 1000 grams respectively, glycerol 100 grams, carbomer 4 grams, hydrolecithin 2 grams, hyaluronate sodium 1 gram, methyl hydroxybenzoate 1 gram, is warming up to 75 degrees Celsius by above-mentioned article mix and blend, makes aqueous phase for subsequent use; Weigh silicone oil 50 grams respectively, isononyl isononanoate 30 grams, cetearyl alcohol 8 grams, plant sterol 5 grams, above-mentioned article mix and blend is warming up to 80 degrees Celsius, makes oil phase for subsequent use; Oil phase is added aqueous phase, is stirred by said mixture, mixing speed is 3100 revs/min, and mixing time is 13 minutes, and is incubated 22 minutes; Add 4 grams of triethanolamine, stir and be cooled to 38 degrees Celsius; Then, then add 5 grams of Herba Dendrobii extracts through ethanol extraction and 6 grams of phenoxyethanol, stir, be cooled to 30 degrees Celsius, obtain final product.
Embodiment six: take deionized water 1100 grams respectively, glycerol 150 grams, carbomer 4 grams, hydrolecithin 4 grams, hyaluronate sodium 1 gram, methyl hydroxybenzoate 1 gram, is warming up to 85 degrees Celsius by above-mentioned article mix and blend, makes aqueous phase for subsequent use; Weigh silicone oil 50 grams respectively, isononyl isononanoate 30 grams, cetearyl alcohol 8 grams, plant sterol 6 grams, above-mentioned article mix and blend is warming up to 85 degrees Celsius, makes oil phase for subsequent use; Oil phase is added aqueous phase, is stirred by said mixture, mixing speed is 2900 revs/min, and mixing time is 10 minutes, and is incubated 19 minutes; Add 5 grams of triethanolamine, stir and be cooled to 40 degrees Celsius; Then, then add 1.5 grams of Herba Dendrobii extracts through water extraction and 7 grams of phenoxyethanol, stir, be cooled to 29 degrees Celsius, obtain final product.
Embodiment seven: take deionized water 900 grams respectively, glycerol 95 grams, carbomer 3 grams, hydrolecithin 1.5 grams, hyaluronate sodium 1 gram, methyl hydroxybenzoate 2 grams, is warming up to 80 degrees Celsius by above-mentioned article mix and blend, makes aqueous phase for subsequent use; Weigh silicone oil 60 grams respectively, isononyl isononanoate 30 grams, cetearyl alcohol 8 grams, plant sterol 4 grams, above-mentioned article mix and blend is warming up to 73 degrees Celsius, makes oil phase for subsequent use; Oil phase is added aqueous phase, is stirred by said mixture, mixing speed is 2000 revs/min, and mixing time is 8 minutes, and is incubated 23 minutes; Add 4 grams of triethanolamine, stir and be cooled to 42 degrees Celsius; Then, then add 5 grams of Herba Dendrobii extracts through isopropanol extraction and 6 grams of phenoxyethanol, stir, be cooled to 32 degrees Celsius, obtain final product.
Embodiment eight: take deionized water 980 grams respectively, glycerol 100 grams, carbomer 3 grams, hydrolecithin 5 grams, hyaluronate sodium 1 gram, methyl hydroxybenzoate 1 gram, is warming up to 82 degrees Celsius by above-mentioned article mix and blend, makes aqueous phase for subsequent use; Weigh silicone oil 50 grams respectively, isononyl isononanoate 30 grams, cetearyl alcohol 8 grams, plant sterol 3 grams, above-mentioned article mix and blend is warming up to 75 degrees Celsius, makes oil phase for subsequent use; Oil phase is added aqueous phase, is stirred by said mixture, mixing speed is 3200 revs/min, and mixing time is 12 minutes, and is incubated 20 minutes; Add 4 grams of triethanolamine, stir and be cooled to 39 degrees Celsius; Then, then add 1.5 grams of Herba Dendrobii extracts through n-butanol extraction and 6 grams of phenoxyethanol, stir, be cooled to 27 degrees Celsius, obtain final product.
Embodiment nine: take deionized water 1050 grams respectively, glycerol 100 grams, carbomer 4 grams, hydrolecithin 3 grams, hyaluronate sodium 1.5 grams, methyl hydroxybenzoate 1 gram, is warming up to 78 degrees Celsius by above-mentioned article mix and blend, makes aqueous phase for subsequent use; Weigh silicone oil 50 grams respectively, isononyl isononanoate 34 grams, cetearyl alcohol 8 grams, plant sterol 4.2 grams, above-mentioned article mix and blend is warming up to 82 degrees Celsius, makes oil phase for subsequent use; Oil phase is added aqueous phase, is stirred by said mixture, mixing speed is 2800 revs/min, and mixing time is 9 minutes, and is incubated 18 minutes; Add 4 grams of triethanolamine, stir and be cooled to 41 degrees Celsius; Then, then add 3.8 grams of Herba Dendrobii extracts through ethylene glycol extraction and 6 grams of phenoxyethanol, stir, be cooled to 33 degrees Celsius, obtain final product.
Embodiment ten: adopt the compositions unguentum containing Herba Dendrobii extract prepared by embodiment five method, test moisturizing, lock water effect:
According to moisturizing Related Mechanism, utilize the in-vitro evaluation method of cell platform, under epidermis cell is in dry environment, study group's compound helps cell to resist drying, prevents dehydration, maintains the ability of the original form of cell.
It is first group that the compositions unguentum containing Herba Dendrobii extract prepared adopting embodiment five method is compiled, by according to embodiment five proportioning and method but the unguentum made of removing Herba Dendrobii extract to compile be second group, by according to embodiment five proportioning and method but the unguentum that removing hydrolecithin component is made to compile be the 3rd group, by according to embodiment five proportioning and method but the unguentum made of removing plant sterol constituent to compile be the 3rd group, by according to embodiment five but removing Herba Dendrobii extract, hydrolecithin and plant sterol constituent unguentum compile be the 5th group, will.Get each group of unguentum 0.1g, add MEM (MinimumEssentialMedia) culture fluid 9.9ml, prepare the solution of concentration into about 1%, with normal MEM liquid cultured cells for blank group, under the drying condition that the external world gives, test cell is from the normal time experienced to dry (state significant change) respectively, and test result is as following table:
| Resist drying time (second) | Difference | Percentage ratio | |
| Blank group | 720 | ||
| First group | 860 | 140 | 19.44% |
| Second group | 830 | 110 | 15.28% |
| 3rd group | 810 | 90 | 12.50% |
| 4th group | 800 | 80 | 11.11% |
| 5th group | 790 | 70 | 9.72% |
As can be seen from the above table, embodiment five effect of adding Herba Dendrobii extract, hydrolecithin and plant sterol constituent is better than adding merely effect a kind of in Herba Dendrobii extract, hydrolecithin and plant sterol constituent, can find out, three kinds of components have synergism each other, improve the moisturizing of compositions, lock water function.
Above-mentioned embodiment is only the preferred embodiment of the present invention; can not limit the scope of protection of the invention with this, change and the replacement of any unsubstantiality that those skilled in the art does on basis of the present invention all belong to the present invention's scope required for protection.
Claims (1)
1. the compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract, it is characterized in that containing, for example lower component: Herba Dendrobii extract, described Herba Dendrobii extract obtains through solvent extraction, described solvent is selected from water, methanol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, n-butyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1, ammediol, 1,3 butylene glycol, acetone, ethyl acetate or its combination; Hydrolecithin and plant sterol;
The mass percentage of described Herba Dendrobii extract is 0.001-5%; The mass percentage of described hydrolecithin is 0.001-5%; The mass percentage of described plant sterol is 0.001-5%; Surplus is adjuvant;
The described compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract is cream or unguentum;
The described compositions containing Herba Dendrobii extract obtains as follows: a. prepares aqueous phase: by deionized water, glycerol, hydrolecithin, carbomer, hyaluronate sodium and methyl hydroxybenzoate mix and blend; B. oil phase is prepared: by silicone oil, isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl heteroside, plant sterol mix and blend; C. described oil phase is added aqueous phase, stir; D. add triethanolamine, stir; E. add Herba Dendrobii extract and phenoxyethanol, stir;
Described a step stirs and is warming up to 75-85 degree Celsius; Described b step stirs and is warming up to 75-85 degree Celsius; The mixing speed of described step c is 2800-3200 rev/min, and mixing time is 8-13 minute, and is incubated 18-23 minute; Described Step d stirs and is cooled to 38-42 degree Celsius; Described step e stirs and is cooled to 27-33 degree Celsius.
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| CN104116675A (en) * | 2014-07-23 | 2014-10-29 | 浙江森宇实业有限公司 | Dendrobium candidum skin moisturizer and preparation method thereof |
| CN105853289A (en) * | 2016-05-05 | 2016-08-17 | 广州丹奇日用化工厂有限公司 | Cosmetic composition containing dendrobium extract and application of cosmetic composition |
| CN106727164B (en) * | 2017-02-16 | 2018-02-23 | 中山卡丝生物科技有限公司 | A kind of moisture-keeping composition and its preparation method and application |
| CN107157872B (en) * | 2017-05-08 | 2019-11-22 | 宁波易中禾生物技术有限公司 | A kind of oxidation resistant dendrobium candidum facial treatment milk of moisturizing and preparation method thereof |
| CN107823031A (en) * | 2017-10-20 | 2018-03-23 | 植然方适（杭州）健康科技有限公司 | A kind of fresh dendrobium candidum stem-leaf extract with antioxidation activity and moisture-keeping efficacy and preparation method thereof and applied in skin care item |
| CN109260109A (en) * | 2018-11-14 | 2019-01-25 | 赣州市七道皇文化发展有限公司 | A kind of natural perfume material facial treatment essence liquid and preparation method thereof |
| CN110101618A (en) * | 2019-05-29 | 2019-08-09 | 尚赫（天津）科技开发有限公司 | Using the moisture-keeping composition of 4XMoisLock quadruple molecular layer water lock technology |
| CN110302080A (en) * | 2019-07-24 | 2019-10-08 | 汉义生物科技（北京）有限公司 | Hemp compounds Herba Dendrobii extract and its preparation method and application |
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| CN102274138A (en) * | 2010-06-11 | 2011-12-14 | 上海家化联合股份有限公司 | Dendrobe extract and preparation method and application thereof |
| CN103202772A (en) * | 2013-01-17 | 2013-07-17 | 广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司 | Cream composition with stable liquid crystal structure and preparation method thereof |
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| CN102274138A (en) * | 2010-06-11 | 2011-12-14 | 上海家化联合股份有限公司 | Dendrobe extract and preparation method and application thereof |
| CN103202772A (en) * | 2013-01-17 | 2013-07-17 | 广州环亚化妆品科技有限公司 | Cream composition with stable liquid crystal structure and preparation method thereof |
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