CN103243508A - After-treatment method for cashmere water ripple panne velvets - Google Patents
After-treatment method for cashmere water ripple panne velvets Download PDFInfo
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- CN103243508A CN103243508A CN2013101467740A CN201310146774A CN103243508A CN 103243508 A CN103243508 A CN 103243508A CN 2013101467740 A CN2013101467740 A CN 2013101467740A CN 201310146774 A CN201310146774 A CN 201310146774A CN 103243508 A CN103243508 A CN 103243508A
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- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 57
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 39
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 27
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 40
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 229910000831 Steel Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000010959 steel Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- -1 sodium alkyl sulfonate Chemical class 0.000 claims description 31
- 238000009963 fulling Methods 0.000 claims description 30
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 claims description 18
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims description 16
- 230000018044 dehydration Effects 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000006297 dehydration reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000010026 decatizing Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 241001481760 Erethizon dorsatum Species 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000003431 cross linking reagent Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000010452 phosphate Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 206010013647 Drowning Diseases 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000002000 scavenging effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000001117 sulphuric acid Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000011149 sulphuric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000008030 elimination Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000003379 elimination reaction Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 abstract description 6
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000003801 milling Methods 0.000 abstract 4
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 abstract 2
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 abstract 2
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 10
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 7
- 241000283707 Capra Species 0.000 description 6
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 3
- 210000000988 bone and bone Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001514 detection method Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 239000010432 diamond Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006073 displacement reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 1
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000036541 health Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000116 mitigating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002787 reinforcement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002689 soil Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000009466 transformation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
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- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to an after-treatment method for cashmere water ripple panne velvets. The after-treatment method comprises the following technical steps of: checking a gray fabric, repairing the gray fabric, binding off the gray fabric, washing wool of the gray fabric, dehydrating the fabric, performing primary milling, bleaching the fabric, dehydrating the fabric, performing secondary milling, bleaching the fabric, then dehydrating the fabric, drying the fabric, performing in-process inspection, flocking the fabric by steel wires, dropping the fabric into water to soften the fabric, rolling out water, burring and galling the fabric, winding and storing the fabric, drying the fabric again, shearing the fabric, performing decating on the fabric, and inspecting a product, thus obtaining a finished product. The after-treatment method is combined with twice milling treatment technologies; and by selection of a milling treatment agent and selection and use of a dropping and softening treatment agent, the shortcomings of low uniformity of a flocked surface and easy generation of shrinkage marks of the product subjected to cashmere water ripple treatment are effectively overcome. The prepared cashmere water ripple panne velvet product is rich in flocked surface, soft and smooth, has a soft and bright natural color, is elastic in hand feel and high in hygroscopicity and air permeability; and when wearing the product on the body, people feel very comfortable.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the technical field of after-finishing of textile products, in particular, the present invention relates to a kind of cashmere water ripples along the afterfinish method of hair.
Background technology
Textile garment is one of the mankind's the most basic demand of depending on for existence, is material indispensable in people's daily life, and is subjected to social environment, custom, trend, all multifactor influences such as aesthetic.Nowadays, be accompanied by constant development of economy, people's the environmental protection meaning makes people consider comfortableness, health, convenience, security and the fashion of clothes more also in the constantly lifting of reinforcement and aesthetic standards.And the consumer generally treats furnishings from the angle of ecological environment, and whether harmful this index more and more comes into one's own, and the healthy innocuousness of textiles has become to take as the leading factor one of principal element that the consumer buys.Synthetic fiber make natural fabric be subjected to designers's attention and liking of consumer again then owing to raw material, production technology, the problems such as pollution of environment are subjected to the restriction of all many-sides.And in numerous natural fabrics, cashmere is favored by the consumer quite again because of its elegance, luxurious, slippery feel, soft, comfortable and heat insulating ability.Cashmere mainly refers to goat cashmere, and it is soft, and quality is strong, high resilience, and gloss is soft naturally, has good hygroscopicity, warmth retention property, crease-resistant and soil resistance, have the laudatory title of " soft gold ", " diamond fiber ".Along with the understanding of people to cashmere, the going deep into of the raising of research level and the spinning processing of cashmere, cashmere product is to diversification, the development of multipath service orientation.
The water ripples cashmere presents water ripples one by one, thereby feel is soft more smooth, and hair side is neatly regular, good permeability.Yet there is more problem in the arranging process of producing the suitable hair of ripples cashmere in the prior art, and for example, water ripples are inhomogeneous, and the matte uniformity is looked into and general gloss deficiency, and it is stiff that feel shows slightly, lacks the top grade sense.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve above-mentioned technical problem of the prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of cashmere water ripples along the postfinishing process of hair.
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above and realize goal of the invention, the invention provides following solution:
A kind of cashmere water ripples are along the afterfinish method of hair: it comprises following processing step in sequence: the softness → squezzing → bur plucking → clot of fluffing → fall into water of grey cloth inspection → repair → bind off → braying → dehydration → one time fulling → rinsing → dehydration → secondary fulling → rinsing → dehydration → oven dry → middle inspection → steel wire is deposited → is dried → cropping → decatizing → check → finished product.
Wherein, the solution that braying is used is the aqueous solution that contains the sodium alkyl sulfonate of the fatty alcohol sulphuric acid ester sodium salt of 0.1wt% and 0.1wt%, and cleaning temperature is 30-40 ℃, and scavenging period is 10-15 minute, braying post rinse 5 minutes.Braying has clean greasy fabric and improves the effect of fabric feeling, has the spinning eliminated simultaneously and the effect of the internal stress that produces when weaving, produces the displacement between the greasy fabric interlacing point, makes fabric feeling abundant, active, is conducive to elasticity and the gloss of abundant goat cashmere.The time of braying is unsuitable long, otherwise will cause fleece fabrics body bone weakness, poor flexibility.
Wherein, the solution that fulling uses contains: crosslinking agent CS-260 and the pH conditioning agent NaOH of the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, 5-8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 5-7wt%, 2-3wt%, and the water of surplus, the pH value of solution is 7.5-8.2; Treatment temperature is 40-50 ℃, and the processing time is 30-50 minute.Fulling is the key foundation operation that forms product matte feature.The temperature of the selection of contracting agent and consumption, fulling etc. directly influences the quality of fulling.Contracting agent consumption is too much, will cause equipment to skid, and does not reach the effect of fulling; Consumption occurs shrink mark again very little easily, causes face inhomogeneous.Experiment shows, adopts the fulling operation twice, can make fiber and grey cloth that the process of mitigation, adjustment and recovery is arranged in the middle of arrangement, can guarantee that reduction of area suede is even, prevents folding line.
Wherein, the drowning soft solution that uses contains: the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the carboxy-modified polysiloxanes of the amino modified polysiloxane of 2wt%, 2wt%, 2wt%, the paregal O of 2wt% and the water of surplus; Bath raio is 1:30, and the soft treatment temperature of falling into water is 35-45 ℃, and the processing time is 30 minutes.Through after the drowning soft treatment of the present invention, make cashmere product soft more smooth, feel is full.
Wherein, in the steel wire fluffing operation, work feed speed 10m/min; Along porcupine roller speed 20m/min, contrary porcupine roller speed 25m/min.Fluffing is very big to the appearance style change effect of cashmere product, and diverse ways can obtain different appearance styles; Need tow sides repeatedly to fluff in the operating process, plentiful, even to reach fine hair.The fluffing number of times can be adjusted according to specific requirement.Need running check fabric body bone and matte situation in addition in the operating process, prevent from fluffing bad or fluffing excessively.
Wherein, before the bur plucking operation, greasy fabric squezzing rate is 75-80%.Greasy fabric humidity is too little, then can not produce water ripples, and humidity is too big, and then water ripples are big.
Wherein, behind the bur plucking, the internal stress of carrying out the water wave typing in 12 hours and eliminating fiber is deposited in clot.
Wherein, decatizing is played styling to cashmere product, can improve simultaneously the gloss of fabric, feel, and quality and face effect can produce gloss and the whippy feel of nature gentleness by decatizing.
Compared with prior art, the present invention has following beneficial effect:
Compared with prior art, technology of the present invention has taken into full account the characteristic of cashmere fiber and the style of water ripples product, in conjunction with twice fulling treatment process, and pass through the selection of fulling finishing agent and selection and the use of drowning softening treating agent, it is poor to efficiently solve the cashmere water ripples processing back product matte uniformity, occurs the shortcoming of shrink mark easily.The cashmere water ripples that prepare are plentiful along the wool product matte, and are soft sliding glutinous, and have soft beautiful natural gloss and whippy feel; And described cashmere water ripples have good hygroscopicity and gas permeability along wool product, wear next to the skin, and feel more comfortable.
The specific embodiment
Below with reference to the specific embodiment technical scheme of the present invention is further elaborated.
Embodiment 1
Be that (average diameter is 13-17 μ m to raw material with pure goat cashmere, average length is 35mm) according to prior art for preparing goat cashmere silk scarf, carry out postfinishing process according to following processing step: the softness → squezzing → bur plucking → clot of fluffing → fall into water of grey cloth inspection → repair → bind off → braying → dehydration → one time fulling → rinsing → dehydration → secondary fulling → rinsing → dehydration → oven dry → middle inspection → steel wire is deposited → is dried → cropping → decatizing → check → finished product.Wherein, the solution that braying is used is the aqueous solution that contains the sodium alkyl sulfonate of the fatty alcohol sulphuric acid ester sodium salt of 0.1wt% and 0.1wt%, and cleaning temperature is 30-40 ℃, and scavenging period is 10-15 minute; Braying post rinse 5 minutes.Wherein the solution of a fulling use contains: crosslinking agent CS-260 and the pH conditioning agent NaOH of the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, 8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 7wt%, 3wt%, and the water of surplus, and the pH value of solution is 8.2; One time the fulling treatment temperature is 50 ℃, and the processing time was respectively 50 minutes.The solution that the secondary fulling uses contains: crosslinking agent CS-260 and the pH conditioning agent NaOH of the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, 5wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 5wt%, 2wt%, and the water of surplus, and the pH value of solution is 7.5; Secondary fulling treatment temperature is 40 ℃, and the processing time was respectively 30 minutes.Rinsing process behind the fulling preferably carries out rinsing in the multistage rinsing bath that temperature reduces gradually; Utilize drier to dewater after the rinsing, bake out temperature is preferably about 80 ℃.In the steel wire fluffing operation, work feed speed 10m/min; Along porcupine roller speed 20m/min, contrary porcupine roller speed 25m/min.The soft solution that uses that falls into water contains: the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the carboxy-modified polysiloxanes of the amino modified polysiloxane of 2wt%, 2wt%, 2wt%, the paregal O of 2wt% and the water of surplus; Bath raio is 1:30, and the soft treatment temperature of falling into water is 35-45 ℃, and the processing time is 30 minutes.Before the bur plucking operation, greasy fabric squezzing rate is 75%.Greasy fabric humidity is too little, then can not produce water ripples, and humidity is too big, and then water ripples are big.Behind the bur plucking, the internal stress of carrying out the water wave typing in 12 hours and eliminating fiber is deposited in clot at room temperature.Decatizing is played styling to cashmere product, can improve simultaneously the gloss of fabric, feel, and quality and face effect can produce gloss and the whippy feel of nature gentleness by decatizing.
Comparative Examples 1
Be that (average diameter is 13-17 μ m to raw material with pure goat cashmere, average length is 35mm) according to prior art for preparing goat cashmere silk scarf, carry out postfinishing process according to following processing step: the softness → squezzing → bur plucking → clot of fluffing → fall into water of grey cloth inspection → repair → bind off → braying → dehydration → fulling → rinsing → dehydration → oven dry → middle inspection → steel wire is deposited → is dried → cropping → decatizing → check → finished product.Wherein, the solution that braying is used is the aqueous solution that contains the sodium alkyl sulfonate of the fatty alcohol sulphuric acid ester sodium salt of 0.1wt% and 0.1wt%, and cleaning temperature is 30-40 ℃, and scavenging period is 10-15 minute; Braying post rinse 5 minutes.The solution that fulling uses contains: crosslinking agent CS-260 and the pH conditioning agent NaOH of the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, 8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 6wt%, 5wt%, and the water of surplus, and the pH value of solution is 8.0; Treatment temperature is 50 ℃, and the processing time was respectively 50 minutes.Rinsing process behind the fulling preferably carries out rinsing in the multistage rinsing bath that temperature reduces gradually; Utilize drier to dewater after the rinsing, bake out temperature is preferably about 80 ℃.In the steel wire fluffing operation, work feed speed 10m/min; Along porcupine roller speed 20m/min, contrary porcupine roller speed 25m/min.The soft solution that uses that falls into water contains: the paregal O of shrink-resistant agent WSP, the 2wt% of silicone softening agent SWE, the 5wt% of 5wt% and the water of surplus; Bath raio is 1:30, and the soft treatment temperature of falling into water is 30-40 ℃, and the processing time is 30 minutes.Before the bur plucking operation, greasy fabric squezzing rate is 75%.Greasy fabric humidity is too little, then can not produce water ripples, and humidity is too big, and then water ripples are big.Behind the bur plucking, the internal stress of carrying out the water wave typing in 12 hours and eliminating fiber is deposited in clot at room temperature.Decatizing is played styling to cashmere product, can improve simultaneously the gloss of fabric, feel, and quality and face effect can produce gloss and the whippy feel of nature gentleness by decatizing.
The silk scarf that embodiment 1 and Comparative Examples 1 technology obtain from surface observation as can be seen, the silk scarf that embodiment 1 obtains, matte is plentiful, and is soft sliding glutinous, and has soft beautiful natural gloss and whippy feel; And the silk scarf matte uniformity that Comparative Examples 1 obtains is not good, is attended by shrink mark, and color and luster is beautiful naturally inadequately.The results are shown in Table 1 about embodiment 1 and the every detection index of Comparative Examples 1 silk scarf.
Table 1
Should be pointed out that at last above embodiment only is the more representational example of the present invention, but those of ordinary skill in the art is to be understood that and can not breaking away from the scope disclosed by the invention, can adopt to be equal to and replace or the equivalent transformation form is implemented.Therefore, protection scope of the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiment of specific embodiment part, and the embodiment of short of disengaging invention essence all is interpreted as having dropped within the protection domain of requirement of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. cashmere water ripples are along the afterfinish method of hair: it is characterized in that: comprise following processing step in sequence: the softness → squezzing → bur plucking → clot of fluffing → fall into water of grey cloth inspection → repair → bind off → braying → dehydration → one time fulling → rinsing → dehydration → secondary fulling → rinsing → dehydration → oven dry → middle inspection → steel wire is deposited → is dried → cropping → decatizing → check → finished product.
2. cashmere water ripples according to claim 1 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that solution that braying is used is the aqueous solution that contains the sodium alkyl sulfonate of the fatty alcohol sulphuric acid ester sodium salt of 0.1wt% and 0.1wt%, cleaning temperature is 30-40 ℃, and scavenging period is 10-15 minute; Braying post rinse 5 minutes.
3. cashmere water ripples according to claim 1 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that: the solution that a described fulling and secondary fulling use contains: crosslinking agent CS-260 and the pH conditioning agent NaOH of the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, 5-8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 5-7wt%, 2-3wt%, and the water of surplus, the pH value of solution is 7.5-8.2; Fulling and secondary fulling treatment temperature are 40-50 ℃, and the processing time was respectively 30-50 minute.
4. cashmere water ripples according to claim 1 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that: the solution that a described fulling uses contains: crosslinking agent CS-260 and the pH conditioning agent NaOH of the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, 8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 7wt%, 3wt%, and the water of surplus, the pH value of solution is 8.2; One time the fulling treatment temperature is 50 ℃, and the processing time was respectively 50 minutes.
5. cashmere water ripples according to claim 4 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that: the solution that described secondary fulling uses contains: crosslinking agent CS-260 and the pH conditioning agent NaOH of the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, 5wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 5wt%, 2wt%, and the water of surplus, the pH value of solution is 7.5; Secondary fulling treatment temperature is 40 ℃, and the processing time was respectively 30 minutes.
6. according to the afterfinish method of each described cashmere water ripples of claim 1-5 along hair, it is characterized in that: in the described steel wire fluffing operation, work feed speed 10m/min; Along porcupine roller speed 20m/min, contrary porcupine roller speed 25m/min.
7. cashmere water ripples according to claim 6 is characterized in that along the afterfinish method of hair: the described drowning soft solution that uses contains: the octadecyl sulfosuccinate ester of the carboxy-modified polysiloxanes of the amino modified polysiloxane of 2wt%, 2wt%, 2wt%, the paregal O of 2wt% and the water of surplus; Bath raio is 1:30, and the soft treatment temperature of falling into water is 35-45 ℃, and the processing time is 30 minutes.
8. cashmere water ripples according to claim 7 are along the afterfinish method of hair, and it is characterized in that: before described bur plucking operation, the squezzing rate is 75-80% in the described squezzing processing step.
9. cashmere water ripples according to claim 8 are along the afterfinish method of hair, and it is characterized in that: behind the bur plucking, clot was deposited 12 hours, to carry out the internal stress of water wave typing and elimination fiber.
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Cited By (5)
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CN103643438A (en) * | 2013-12-02 | 2014-03-19 | 苏州市拉波尼服饰有限公司 | After-treatment technology of wool knitted fabric |
CN103710807A (en) * | 2013-12-31 | 2014-04-09 | 凯诺科技股份有限公司 | Method for producing worsted fabrics with carved patterns |
CN104389139A (en) * | 2014-10-29 | 2015-03-04 | 马单 | Novel teasel raising machine |
CN109487404A (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2019-03-19 | 西藏圣信工贸有限公司 | A kind of production method that yakwool water ripples are two-sided |
CN111101379A (en) * | 2019-12-30 | 2020-05-05 | 无锡太平针织有限公司 | Super-soft antistatic auxiliary agent and application thereof in bionic fiber product |
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CN103046385A (en) * | 2012-12-24 | 2013-04-17 | 江阴兴吴呢绒科技有限公司 | Manufacturing technique for machine washable slubbing pure wool fabric |
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Cited By (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN103643438A (en) * | 2013-12-02 | 2014-03-19 | 苏州市拉波尼服饰有限公司 | After-treatment technology of wool knitted fabric |
CN103710807A (en) * | 2013-12-31 | 2014-04-09 | 凯诺科技股份有限公司 | Method for producing worsted fabrics with carved patterns |
CN103710807B (en) * | 2013-12-31 | 2016-03-30 | 海澜之家股份有限公司 | The production method of carving worsted fabric |
CN104389139A (en) * | 2014-10-29 | 2015-03-04 | 马单 | Novel teasel raising machine |
CN109487404A (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2019-03-19 | 西藏圣信工贸有限公司 | A kind of production method that yakwool water ripples are two-sided |
CN109487404B (en) * | 2018-11-06 | 2020-09-01 | 西藏圣信工贸有限公司 | Production method of yakwool water ripple double-faced woolen cloth |
CN111101379A (en) * | 2019-12-30 | 2020-05-05 | 无锡太平针织有限公司 | Super-soft antistatic auxiliary agent and application thereof in bionic fiber product |
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