CN103243508B - After-treatment method for cashmere water ripple panne velvets - Google Patents

After-treatment method for cashmere water ripple panne velvets Download PDF

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CN103243508B
CN103243508B CN201310146774.0A CN201310146774A CN103243508B CN 103243508 B CN103243508 B CN 103243508B CN 201310146774 A CN201310146774 A CN 201310146774A CN 103243508 B CN103243508 B CN 103243508B
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fabric
fulling
cashmere
solution
water
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CN103243508A (en
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郁顶华
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Jiaxing Huishun Textile Dyeing And Finishing Co Ltd
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Jiaxing Huishun Textile Dyeing And Finishing Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention relates to an after-treatment method for cashmere water ripple panne velvets. The after-treatment method comprises the following technical steps of: checking a gray fabric, repairing the gray fabric, binding off the gray fabric, washing wool of the gray fabric, dehydrating the fabric, performing primary milling, bleaching the fabric, dehydrating the fabric, performing secondary milling, bleaching the fabric, then dehydrating the fabric, drying the fabric, performing in-process inspection, flocking the fabric by steel wires, dropping the fabric into water to soften the fabric, rolling out water, burring and galling the fabric, winding and storing the fabric, drying the fabric again, shearing the fabric, performing decating on the fabric, and inspecting a product, thus obtaining a finished product. The after-treatment method is combined with twice milling treatment technologies; and by selection of a milling treatment agent and selection and use of a dropping and softening treatment agent, the shortcomings of low uniformity of a flocked surface and easy generation of shrinkage marks of the product subjected to cashmere water ripple treatment are effectively overcome. The prepared cashmere water ripple panne velvet product is rich in flocked surface, soft and smooth, has a soft and bright natural color, is elastic in hand feel and high in hygroscopicity and air permeability; and when wearing the product on the body, people feel very comfortable.

Description

Cashmere water ripples are along the afterfinish method of hair
Technical field
The present invention relates to the technical field of after-finishing of textile products, in particular, the present invention relates to the afterfinish method of a kind of cashmere water ripples along hair.
Background technology
Textile garment is one of the mankind's the most basic demand of depending on for existence, is material indispensable in people's daily life, and is subject to the impact of social environment, custom, trend, the factors such as aesthetic.Nowadays, along with the development of economy, the environmental protection of the people meaning is also constantly being strengthened and the lifting of aesthetic standards, makes people consider the comfortableness of clothes, health, convenience, security and fashion more.And consumer generally treats furnishings from the angle of ecological environment, whether this index harmful more and more comes into one's own, and the healthy innocuousness of textiles has become to take as the leading factor one of principal element of consumer's purchase.Synthetic fiber, then due to raw material, production technology, be subject to all many-sided restrictions to problems such as the pollutions of environment, make natural fabric be subject to the attention of designers and liking of consumer again.And in numerous natural fabrics, cashmere again because it is graceful, luxurious, slippery feel, soft, comfortable and heat insulating ability and quite by consumers.Cashmere mainly refers to goat cashmere, and it is soft, and quality is strong, high resilience, and gloss is naturally soft, has good hygroscopicity, warmth retention property, crease-resistant and soil resistance, have the laudatory title of " soft gold ", " diamond fiber ".Along with people are to the understanding of cashmere, going deep into of the raising of research level and the spinning processing of cashmere, cashmere product uses future development to diversification, multipath.
Water ripples cashmere presents water ripples one by one, and thus feel is more soft smooth, and hair side is neatly regular, good permeability.But produce ripples in prior art and there is more problem along the arranging process of hair cashmere, such as, water ripples are uneven, the matte uniformity look into and also general gloss not enough, feel is slightly aobvious stiff, lacks high-grade sense.
Summary of the invention
In order to solve above-mentioned technical problem of the prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a kind of cashmere water ripples along the postfinishing process of hair.
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above and realize goal of the invention, the invention provides following solution:
A kind of cashmere water ripples are along the afterfinish method of hair: it comprises the following processing step that order is carried out: → cropping → decatizing → inspection → finished product is deposited → dried in grey cloth inspection → repair → bind off → braying → dehydration → mono-time fulling → rinsing → dehydration → secondary fulling → rinsing → dehydration → oven dry → middle inspection → steel wire fluffing → overboard softness → squezzing → bur plucking → clot.
Wherein, the solution that braying uses is the aqueous solution of the sodium alkyl sulfonate of fatty alcohol sulphuric acid ester sodium salt containing 0.1wt% and 0.1wt%, and cleaning temperature is 30-40 DEG C, and scavenging period is 10-15 minute, braying post rinse 5 minutes.Braying has clean greasy fabric and improves the effect of fabric feeling, has the effect of the internal stress produced when eliminating spinning and weave simultaneously, produces the displacement between greasy fabric interlacing point, and fabric feeling is enriched, active, is conducive to elasticity and the gloss of abundant goat cashmere.The time of braying is unsuitable long, otherwise fleece fabrics body bone will be caused weak, poor flexibility.
Wherein, the solution that fulling uses contains: the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of 5-8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 5-7wt%, the crosslinking agent CS-260 of 2-3wt% and pH adjusting agent NaOH, and the water of surplus, the pH value of solution is 7.5-8.2; Treatment temperature is 40-50 DEG C, and the processing time is 30-50 minute.Fulling is the key foundation operation forming product matte feature.The temperature etc. of the selection of contracting agent and consumption, fulling directly affects the quality of fulling.Contracting agent consumption is too much, equipment will be caused to skid, do not reach the effect of fulling; Very little, easily there is shrink mark again in consumption, causes face uneven.Experiment shows, adopts twice fulling operation, can make fiber and grey cloth in the middle of arranging, have the process of mitigation, adjustment and recovery, can ensure that reduction of area suede is even, prevent folding line.
Wherein, the solution that overboard softness uses contains: the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of the amino modified polysiloxane of 2wt%, the carboxy-modified polysiloxanes of 2wt%, 2wt%, the paregal O of 2wt% and the water of surplus; Bath raio is 1:30, and overboard soft treatment temperature is 35-45 DEG C, and the processing time is 30 minutes.After overboard soft treatment of the present invention, make cashmere product more soft smooth, feel is full.
Wherein, in steel wire fluffing operation, work feed speed 10m/min; Along porcupine roller speed 20m/min, inverse porcupine roller speed 25m/min.Fluff very large to the appearance style change effect of cashmere product, diverse ways can obtain different appearance styles; Tow sides are needed repeatedly to fluff in operating process, plentiful, even to reach fine hair.Fluffing number of times can adjust according to specific requirement.Need running check fabric body bone and matte situation in addition in operating process, prevent from fluffing bad or fluffing excessively.
Wherein, before bur plucking operation, greasy fabric squezzing rate is 75-80%.Greasy fabric humidity is too little, then can not produce water ripples, and humidity is too large, then water ripples are large.
Wherein, after bur plucking, the internal stress of carrying out water wave sizing for 12 hours and eliminating fiber is deposited in clot.
Wherein, decatizing plays styling to cashmere product, can improve the gloss of fabric, feel simultaneously, and quality and face effect, can produce the gloss of nature gentleness and whippy feel by decatizing.
Compared with prior art, the present invention has following beneficial effect:
Compared with prior art, technique of the present invention has taken into full account the characteristic of cashmere fiber and the style of water ripples product, in conjunction with twice fulling treatment process, and pass through the selection of fulling finishing agent and the choice and operation of overboard softening treating agent, after efficiently solving the process of cashmere water ripples, the product matte uniformity is poor, easily occurs the shortcoming of shrink mark.The cashmere water ripples prepared are plentiful along wool product matte, soft sliding glutinous, and have soft beautiful natural gloss and whippy feel; And described cashmere water ripples have good hygroscopicity and gas permeability along wool product, wear next to the skin, and feel more comfortable.
Detailed description of the invention
Below with reference to detailed description of the invention, technical scheme of the present invention is further elaborated.
embodiment 1
With pure goat cashmere, for raw material, (average diameter is for 13-17 μm, average length is 35mm) conventionally prepare goat cashmere silk scarf, carry out postfinishing process according to following processing step: → cropping → decatizing → inspection → finished product is deposited → dried in grey cloth inspection → repair → bind off → braying → dehydration → mono-time fulling → rinsing → dehydration → secondary fulling → rinsing → dehydration → oven dry → middle inspection → steel wire fluffing → overboard softness → squezzing → bur plucking → clot.Wherein, the solution that braying uses is the aqueous solution of the sodium alkyl sulfonate of fatty alcohol sulphuric acid ester sodium salt containing 0.1wt% and 0.1wt%, and cleaning temperature is 30-40 DEG C, and scavenging period is 10-15 minute; Braying post rinse 5 minutes.Wherein the solution of a fulling use contains: the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of 8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 7wt%, the crosslinking agent CS-260 of 3wt% and pH adjusting agent NaOH, and the water of surplus, and the pH value of solution is 8.2; One time fulling treatment temperature is 50 DEG C, and the processing time is respectively 50 minutes.The solution that secondary fulling uses contains: the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of 5wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 5wt%, the crosslinking agent CS-260 of 2wt% and pH adjusting agent NaOH, and the water of surplus, and the pH value of solution is 7.5; Secondary fulling treatment temperature is 40 DEG C, and the processing time is respectively 30 minutes.Rinsing is carried out in the multistage rinsing bath that rinsing process after fulling preferably reduces gradually in temperature; Utilize drier to dewater after rinsing, bake out temperature is preferably about 80 DEG C.In steel wire fluffing operation, work feed speed 10m/min; Along porcupine roller speed 20m/min, inverse porcupine roller speed 25m/min.The solution that overboard softness uses contains: the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of the amino modified polysiloxane of 2wt%, the carboxy-modified polysiloxanes of 2wt%, 2wt%, the paregal O of 2wt% and the water of surplus; Bath raio is 1:30, and overboard soft treatment temperature is 35-45 DEG C, and the processing time is 30 minutes.Before bur plucking operation, greasy fabric squezzing rate is 75%.Greasy fabric humidity is too little, then can not produce water ripples, and humidity is too large, then water ripples are large.After bur plucking, the internal stress of carrying out water wave sizing for 12 hours and eliminating fiber is deposited at room temperature clot.Decatizing plays styling to cashmere product, can improve the gloss of fabric, feel simultaneously, and quality and face effect, can produce the gloss of nature gentleness and whippy feel by decatizing.
comparative example 1
With pure goat cashmere, for raw material, (average diameter is for 13-17 μm, average length is 35mm) conventionally prepare goat cashmere silk scarf, carry out postfinishing process according to following processing step: → cropping → decatizing → inspection → finished product is deposited → dried in grey cloth inspection → repair → bind off → braying → dehydration → fulling → rinsing → dehydration → oven dry → middle inspection → steel wire fluffing → overboard softness → squezzing → bur plucking → clot.Wherein, the solution that braying uses is the aqueous solution of the sodium alkyl sulfonate of fatty alcohol sulphuric acid ester sodium salt containing 0.1wt% and 0.1wt%, and cleaning temperature is 30-40 DEG C, and scavenging period is 10-15 minute; Braying post rinse 5 minutes.The solution that fulling uses contains: the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of 8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 6wt%, the crosslinking agent CS-260 of 5wt% and pH adjusting agent NaOH, and the water of surplus, and the pH value of solution is 8.0; Treatment temperature is 50 DEG C, and the processing time is respectively 50 minutes.Rinsing is carried out in the multistage rinsing bath that rinsing process after fulling preferably reduces gradually in temperature; Utilize drier to dewater after rinsing, bake out temperature is preferably about 80 DEG C.In steel wire fluffing operation, work feed speed 10m/min; Along porcupine roller speed 20m/min, inverse porcupine roller speed 25m/min.The solution that overboard softness uses contains: the paregal O of shrink-resistant agent WSP, 2wt% of silicone softening agent SWE, 5wt% of 5wt% and the water of surplus; Bath raio is 1:30, and overboard soft treatment temperature is 30-40 DEG C, and the processing time is 30 minutes.Before bur plucking operation, greasy fabric squezzing rate is 75%.Greasy fabric humidity is too little, then can not produce water ripples, and humidity is too large, then water ripples are large.After bur plucking, the internal stress of carrying out water wave sizing for 12 hours and eliminating fiber is deposited at room temperature clot.Decatizing plays styling to cashmere product, can improve the gloss of fabric, feel simultaneously, and quality and face effect, can produce the gloss of nature gentleness and whippy feel by decatizing.
The silk scarf that embodiment 1 and comparative example 1 technique obtain as can be seen from surface observation, the silk scarf that embodiment 1 obtains, matte is plentiful, soft sliding glutinous, and has soft beautiful natural gloss and whippy feel; And the silk scarf matte uniformity that comparative example 1 obtains is not good, be attended by shrink mark, and color and luster is not naturally beautiful.One embodiment 1 and the every Testing index of comparative example 1 silk scarf the results are shown in Table 1.
table 1
Finally it should be pointed out that above embodiment is only the more representational example of the present invention, but those of ordinary skill in the art is to be understood that and without departing from the scope of the present disclosure, can adopts equivalent replacement or the enforcement of equivalent transformation form.Therefore, protection scope of the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiment of detailed description of the invention part, as long as no the embodiment departing from invention essence, within the protection domain being all interpreted as having dropped on application claims.

Claims (7)

1. cashmere water ripples are along the afterfinish method of hair: it is characterized in that: comprise the following processing step that order is carried out: → cropping → decatizing → inspection → finished product is deposited → dried in grey cloth inspection → repair → bind off → braying → dehydration → mono-time fulling → rinsing → dehydration → secondary fulling → rinsing → dehydration → oven dry → middle inspection → steel wire fluffing → overboard softness → squezzing → bur plucking → clot; Wherein, the solution that a described fulling and secondary fulling use contains: the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of 5-8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 5-7wt%, the crosslinking agent CS-260 of 2-3wt% and pH adjusting agent NaOH, and the water of surplus, the pH value of solution is 7.5-8.2; A fulling and secondary fulling treatment temperature are 40-50 DEG C, and the processing time is respectively 30-50 minute; The solution that described overboard softness uses contains: the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of the amino modified polysiloxane of 2wt%, the carboxy-modified polysiloxanes of 2wt%, 2wt%, the paregal O of 2wt% and the water of surplus; Bath raio is 1:30, and overboard soft treatment temperature is 35-45 DEG C, and the processing time is 30 minutes.
2. cashmere water ripples according to claim 1 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that solution that braying uses is the aqueous solution of the sodium alkyl sulfonate of fatty alcohol sulphuric acid ester sodium salt containing 0.1wt% and 0.1wt%, cleaning temperature is 30-40 DEG C, and scavenging period is 10-15 minute; Braying post rinse 5 minutes.
3. cashmere water ripples according to claim 1 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that: the solution that a described fulling uses contains: the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of 8wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 7wt%, the crosslinking agent CS-260 of 3wt% and pH adjusting agent NaOH, and the water of surplus, the pH value of solution is 8.2; One time fulling treatment temperature is 50 DEG C, and the processing time is respectively 50 minutes.
4. cashmere water ripples according to claim 3 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that: the solution that described secondary fulling uses contains: the penetrating agent JFC of 1wt%, the octadecyl sufosuccinate ester of 5wt%, the fatty alcohol phosphate of 5wt%, the crosslinking agent CS-260 of 2wt% and pH adjusting agent NaOH, and the water of surplus, the pH value of solution is 7.5; Secondary fulling treatment temperature is 40 DEG C, and the processing time is respectively 30 minutes.
5. the cashmere water ripples according to any one of claim 1-4, along the afterfinish method of hair, is characterized in that: in described steel wire fluffing operation, work feed speed 10m/min; Along porcupine roller speed 20m/min, inverse porcupine roller speed 25m/min.
6. cashmere water ripples according to claim 5 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that: before described bur plucking operation, in described squezzing processing step, squezzing rate is 75-80%.
7. cashmere water ripples according to claim 6 are along the afterfinish method of hair, it is characterized in that: after bur plucking, and clot deposits 12 hours, to carry out the internal stress of water wave sizing and elimination fiber.
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CN103643438A (en) * 2013-12-02 2014-03-19 苏州市拉波尼服饰有限公司 After-treatment technology of wool knitted fabric
CN103710807B (en) * 2013-12-31 2016-03-30 海澜之家股份有限公司 The production method of carving worsted fabric
CN104389139A (en) * 2014-10-29 2015-03-04 马单 Novel teasel raising machine
CN109487404B (en) * 2018-11-06 2020-09-01 西藏圣信工贸有限公司 Production method of yakwool water ripple double-faced woolen cloth
CN111101379A (en) * 2019-12-30 2020-05-05 无锡太平针织有限公司 Super-soft antistatic auxiliary agent and application thereof in bionic fiber product

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CN103014993A (en) * 2012-12-12 2013-04-03 江苏阳光集团有限公司 Knitting-simulated fancy woolen and preparation method thereof
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN1414153A (en) * 2002-09-26 2003-04-30 泰安康平纳毛纺织有限公司 Method of producing super thin woolen spinning fabric
CN1410624A (en) * 2002-11-18 2003-04-16 天津维信(集团)有限公司 Cashmere product shrinkproof and antipilling treatment technology
CN102618993A (en) * 2012-04-09 2012-08-01 张家港市华鹿毛纺有限公司 Method for preparing cashmere fabric
CN102851845A (en) * 2012-06-14 2013-01-02 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 High-count smooth double-faced wool and production process thereof
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