WO2018036022A1 - Method for producing a knitted, windproof, breathable, warm fabric - Google Patents

Method for producing a knitted, windproof, breathable, warm fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018036022A1
WO2018036022A1 PCT/CN2016/109471 CN2016109471W WO2018036022A1 WO 2018036022 A1 WO2018036022 A1 WO 2018036022A1 CN 2016109471 W CN2016109471 W CN 2016109471W WO 2018036022 A1 WO2018036022 A1 WO 2018036022A1
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Prior art keywords
fabric
semi
yarn
finished product
producing
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PCT/CN2016/109471
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French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
张卫东
奚炳华
安云记
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江苏新凯盛企业发展有限公司
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Publication of WO2018036022A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018036022A1/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B1/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C13/00—Shearing, clipping or cropping surfaces of textile fabrics; Pile cutting; Trimming seamed edges
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8276—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of textile fabrics, and particularly relates to a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric.
  • the inner layer of warm velvet fabric is covered with a waterproof and breathable membrane, and the other side of the waterproof and breathable membrane is then coated with a fabric that is in contact with the outside world.
  • the fabric is thicker and heavier, the processing procedure is cumbersome, and the loss is large.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric with high density, good resilience, good wind and air permeability, fluffy and warm, moderate weight, simple and comfortable fabric, soft and comfortable hand.
  • the technical proposal of the invention provides a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric, which adopts 30D/36F polyester low elastic yarn as a loop yarn, 50D/72F polyester low elastic yarn as a bottom yarn, and 40D in the bottom yarn.
  • Spandex is woven on a 36G/30′′ terry machine to form a blank, and is washed, pre-sorted, dyed, softened, bristled, combed, sheared, shaken, back brushed and finished to produce high-density suede for warmth.
  • Fabric including the following steps:
  • Dyeing dyeing the semi-finished product after the predetermined type, adding 1.5g/l glacial acetic acid, 2g/l leveling agent, 1.2g/l degreaser, 2g/l dispersant, disperse dye, Bath ratio is 1:12 at 2 °C
  • the heating rate of /min is raised from normal temperature to 80 ° C, and then raised to 125 ° C at a heating rate of 1.5 ° C / min, held for 40 min, and then cooled at a cooling rate of 2.5 ° C / min;
  • bristles 6 sets of bristles are used, firstly brush one semi-finished terry surface, then turn over the surface of the brush 2 sets, then turn over the surface of the bristles, the guide cloth speed is 27-29m/min, and the relative speed of the needle is 85. -90%, the relative speed of the needle is 100-110%, the tension of the cloth is 1.5-1.7g/cm 2 , and the tension of the cloth is 1.8-2g/cm 2 ;
  • Comb comb the brushed surface of the brush, the guide speed is 22m/min, the tension of each section is 94-97kg/cm 2 , and the combing rate is 160-165%;
  • the semi-finished product is subjected to the granulation treatment at a temperature of 90 ° C, a hot air time of 15 min, a steam time of 10 min, and a cold air time of 12 min.
  • the parameter of the terry cloth for producing the grey fabric is that the height of the terry sinker is 2.2 mm, the length of the terry yarn 30D/36F is 58 cm/100, and the bottom yarn 50D/72F
  • the line length is 19.5cm/100 pieces; the lower machine door width is 162cm, and the lower machine weight is 240g/m 2 .
  • the high-density suede warm fabric has a transverse density of 110 coils/5 cm, a longitudinal density of 185 coils/5 cm, a width of 150 cm, and a weight of 228 g/m 2 .
  • the invention relates to a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric.
  • the invention has high density, good resilience, good wind and air permeability, fluffy and warm, moderate weight, and the process is simple and soft and comfortable.
  • the utility model relates to a production method of knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric, which adopts 30D/36F polyester low elastic yarn as the loop yarn, 50D/72F polyester low elastic yarn as the bottom yarn, and 40D spandex in the bottom yarn, at 36G/30′′
  • the roughing machine is woven according to the parameters to form a blank, and is washed, pre-sorted, dyed, softened, bristled, combed, sheared, shaken, back-brushed and formed into a high-density suede warm fabric, which comprises the following steps:
  • Dyeing dyeing the semi-finished product after the predetermined type, adding 1.5g/l glacial acetic acid, 2g/l leveling agent, 1.2g/l degreaser, 2g/l dispersant, disperse dye, The bath ratio was 1:12, the temperature was raised from normal temperature to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 2 ° C / min, and then raised to 125 ° C at a heating rate of 1.5 ° C / min, held for 40 min, and then cooled at a cooling rate of 2.5 ° C / min;
  • bristles 6 sets of bristles are used, firstly brush one semi-finished terry surface, then turn over the surface of the brush 2 sets, then turn over the surface of the bristles, the guide cloth speed is 27-29m/min, and the relative speed of the needle is 85. -90%, the relative speed of the needle is 100-110%, the tension of the cloth is 1.5-1.7g/cm 2 , and the tension of the cloth is 1.8-2g/cm 2 ;
  • Comb comb the brushed loop surface, the guide cloth speed is 22m/min, the tension of each section is 94-97kg/cm 2 , and the combing rate is 160-165%;
  • the semi-finished product is subjected to the granulation treatment at a temperature of 90 ° C, a hot air time of 15 min, a steam time of 10 min, and a cold air time of 12 min.
  • the parameter of the loop fabric for producing the grey fabric is that the height of the terry sinker is 2.2 mm, the length of the loop yarn 30D/36F is 58 cm/100, and the length of the bottom yarn 50D/72F is 19.5 cm/100;
  • the lower door width is 162cm, and the lower machine weight is 240g/m 2 .
  • the high-density suede warm fabric has a transverse density of 110 coils/5 cm, a longitudinal density of 185 coils/5 cm, a width of 150 cm, and a weight of 228 g/m 2 .
  • the invention adopts the fine-denier ultra-fine fiber to add spandex on the fine-pitch weft knitting machine, and weaves the elastic terry cloth with high density and denseness. After a special dyeing and finishing process, it is made into a velvet warm fabric. Its windproof performance is mainly formed by the dense density of the fabric, instead of relying on a waterproof breathable membrane to achieve this function.
  • the invention relates to a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric.
  • the invention has high density, good resilience, good wind and air permeability, fluffy and warm, moderate weight, and the process is simple and soft and comfortable.

Abstract

A method for producing a knitted, windproof, breathable, warm fabric, comprising: using a 30D/36F polyester draw textured yarn as a loop yarn, and a 50D/72F polyester draw textured yarn as a ground yarn; plating 40D spandex to the ground yarn; weaving on a 36G/30" terry knitting machine according to parameters to form a blank; and manufacturing a high-density pile warm fabric by steps of washing, presetting, dyeing, softening, brushing, carding, shearing, napping, back brushing, and setting. The fabric has advantages of high density, good resilience, good windproof and breathable properties, fluffy and warm function, a moderate weight, a simple procedure compared with applied fabrics, and comfortable feeling.

Description

一种针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法Method for producing knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric 技术领域Technical field
本发明属于纺织面料领域，特别涉及一种针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法。The invention belongs to the field of textile fabrics, and particularly relates to a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric.
背景技术Background technique
现有的防风透气保暖面料大多是三层：内层保暖绒面料贴一层防水透气膜，防水透气膜的另一面再贴一层与外界接触的面料。面料较厚较重，加工工序繁琐，损耗较大。Most of the existing windproof and breathable warm fabrics are three layers: the inner layer of warm velvet fabric is covered with a waterproof and breathable membrane, and the other side of the waterproof and breathable membrane is then coated with a fabric that is in contact with the outside world. The fabric is thicker and heavier, the processing procedure is cumbersome, and the loss is large.
发明内容Summary of the invention
本发明的目的在于提供一种密度高，回弹性好，防风透气性能好，蓬松保暖，克重适中，工序相比贴合面料简单，手感柔软舒适的针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法。The object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric with high density, good resilience, good wind and air permeability, fluffy and warm, moderate weight, simple and comfortable fabric, soft and comfortable hand.
本发明的技术方案是，提供一种针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法，采用30D/36F涤纶低弹丝作为毛圈纱，50D/72F涤纶低弹丝作为底纱，在底纱中添纱40D氨纶，在36G/30″的毛圈机上按参数编织形成毛坯，并经过水洗、预定、染色、上柔、刷毛、梳毛、剪毛、摇粒、背刷以及成定工序制得高密度绒面保暖面料，具体包括如下步骤：The technical proposal of the invention provides a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric, which adopts 30D/36F polyester low elastic yarn as a loop yarn, 50D/72F polyester low elastic yarn as a bottom yarn, and 40D in the bottom yarn. Spandex is woven on a 36G/30′′ terry machine to form a blank, and is washed, pre-sorted, dyed, softened, bristled, combed, sheared, shaken, back brushed and finished to produce high-density suede for warmth. Fabric, including the following steps:
1)水洗：将毛坯放入水中，并添加1.8g/l的去油剂，浴比为1：10，升温至110℃后，保温时间20min；1) Washing: the blank is placed in water, and 1.8g/l of degreaser is added, the bath ratio is 1:10, and the temperature is raised to 110 ° C, and the holding time is 20 min;
2)预定：将水洗后的半成品放入定型机预定型处理，定型温度为150℃，喂布速度为20m/min，并超喂20％,下机幅宽155-160cm，下机克重230g/m2；2) Scheduling: The semi-finished product after washing is placed in a predetermined type of setting machine, the setting temperature is 150 ° C, the feeding speed is 20 m/min, and the feeding speed is 20%, the lower machine width is 155-160 cm, and the lower machine weight is 230 g. /m 2 ;
3)染色：对预定型后的半成品进行染色处理，添加1.5g/l的冰醋酸，2g/l的匀染剂，1.2g/l的去油剂，2g/l的分散剂，分散染料，浴比为1：12，以2℃ /min的升温速率从常温升至80℃，再以1.5℃/min的升温速率升至125℃，保温40min，之后以2.5℃/min的降温速率降温；3) Dyeing: dyeing the semi-finished product after the predetermined type, adding 1.5g/l glacial acetic acid, 2g/l leveling agent, 1.2g/l degreaser, 2g/l dispersant, disperse dye, Bath ratio is 1:12 at 2 °C The heating rate of /min is raised from normal temperature to 80 ° C, and then raised to 125 ° C at a heating rate of 1.5 ° C / min, held for 40 min, and then cooled at a cooling rate of 2.5 ° C / min;
4)上柔：将染色后的半成品在专用于起绒面料常温的染槽进行上柔处理，加入5g/l的起毛剂，2g/l的柔软剂，浴比为1：8，处理时间为20min；4) Upper softness: The dyed semi-finished product is softened in a dyeing tank specially designed for the normal temperature of the pile fabric, adding 5g/l of a hair raising agent, 2g/l of softener, and a bath ratio of 1:8. The processing time is 20min;
5)刷毛：采用6台刷毛机，先刷半成品毛圈面1台，再翻面刷平面2台，再翻面刷毛圈面3台，导布速度27-29m/min，覆针相对速度85-90％，起针相对速度100-110％，入布张力1.5-1.7g/cm2，出布张力1.8-2g/cm2；5) bristles: 6 sets of bristles are used, firstly brush one semi-finished terry surface, then turn over the surface of the brush 2 sets, then turn over the surface of the bristles, the guide cloth speed is 27-29m/min, and the relative speed of the needle is 85. -90%, the relative speed of the needle is 100-110%, the tension of the cloth is 1.5-1.7g/cm 2 , and the tension of the cloth is 1.8-2g/cm 2 ;
6)梳毛：梳理刷断的毛圈面，导布速度22m/min，各段张力94-97kg/cm2，梳毛率为160-165％；6) Comb: comb the brushed surface of the brush, the guide speed is 22m/min, the tension of each section is 94-97kg/cm 2 , and the combing rate is 160-165%;
7)剪毛：调节三角刀和圆刀的距离和角度，剪掉超过1.8-2mm的绒毛；7) Shearing: adjust the distance and angle of the triangle knife and the round knife, and cut off the fluff more than 1.8-2mm;
8)摇粒：将半成品进行摇粒处理，温度为90℃，热风时间15min，蒸汽时间10min，冷风时间12min，摇粒出桶后立即进行理布处理；8) Shake: The semi-finished product is subjected to the granulation treatment at a temperature of 90 ° C, a hot air time of 15 min, a steam time of 10 min, and a cold air time of 12 min.
9)背刷：将半成品平面一面用一台刷毛机再次刷毛；9) Back brush: the side of the semi-finished product is brushed again with a brushing machine;
10)成定：将背刷后的半成品放入定型机定型处理，定型温度为150℃，喂布速度为22m/min，并超喂15％，风量60％。10) Set: The semi-finished product after back brushing is placed in the setting machine for shaping, the setting temperature is 150 °C, the feeding speed is 22m/min, and the overfeed is 15%, and the air volume is 60%.
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述毛圈机生产坯布的参数为毛圈机沉降片高度为2.2mm，毛圈纱30D/36F的线长为58cm/100枚；底纱50D/72F的线长为19.5cm/100枚；下机门幅162cm，下机克重240g/m2。In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the parameter of the terry cloth for producing the grey fabric is that the height of the terry sinker is 2.2 mm, the length of the terry yarn 30D/36F is 58 cm/100, and the bottom yarn 50D/72F The line length is 19.5cm/100 pieces; the lower machine door width is 162cm, and the lower machine weight is 240g/m 2 .
在本发明一个较佳实施例中，所述高密度绒面保暖面料的横密为110个线圈/5cm，纵密为185个线圈/5cm，幅宽150cm，克重228g/m2。In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the high-density suede warm fabric has a transverse density of 110 coils/5 cm, a longitudinal density of 185 coils/5 cm, a width of 150 cm, and a weight of 228 g/m 2 .
本发明所述为一种针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法，本发明密度高，回弹性好，防风透气性能好，蓬松保暖，克重适中，工序相比贴合面料简单，手感柔软舒适。 The invention relates to a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric. The invention has high density, good resilience, good wind and air permeability, fluffy and warm, moderate weight, and the process is simple and soft and comfortable.
具体实施方式detailed description
下面对本发明的较佳实施例进行详细阐述，以使本发明的优点和特征能更易于被本领域技术人员理解，从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。The preferred embodiments of the present invention are described in detail below, so that the advantages and features of the present invention can be more readily understood by those skilled in the art.
实施例一Embodiment 1
一种针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法，采用30D/36F涤纶低弹丝作为毛圈纱，50D/72F涤纶低弹丝作为底纱，在底纱中添纱40D氨纶，在36G/30″的毛圈机上按参数编织形成毛坯，并经过水洗、预定、染色、上柔、刷毛、梳毛、剪毛、摇粒、背刷以及成定工序制得高密度绒面保暖面料，具体包括如下步骤：The utility model relates to a production method of knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric, which adopts 30D/36F polyester low elastic yarn as the loop yarn, 50D/72F polyester low elastic yarn as the bottom yarn, and 40D spandex in the bottom yarn, at 36G/30′′ The roughing machine is woven according to the parameters to form a blank, and is washed, pre-sorted, dyed, softened, bristled, combed, sheared, shaken, back-brushed and formed into a high-density suede warm fabric, which comprises the following steps:
1)水洗：将毛坯放入水中，并添加1.8g/l的去油剂，浴比为1：10，升温至110℃后，保温时间20min；1) Washing: the blank is placed in water, and 1.8g/l of degreaser is added, the bath ratio is 1:10, and the temperature is raised to 110 ° C, and the holding time is 20 min;
2)预定：将水洗后的半成品放入定型机预定型处理，定型温度为150℃，喂布速度为20m/min，并超喂20％,下机幅宽155-160cm，下机克重230g/m2；2) Scheduling: The semi-finished product after washing is placed in a predetermined type of setting machine, the setting temperature is 150 ° C, the feeding speed is 20 m/min, and the feeding speed is 20%, the lower machine width is 155-160 cm, and the lower machine weight is 230 g. /m 2 ;
3)染色：对预定型后的半成品进行染色处理，添加1.5g/l的冰醋酸，2g/l的匀染剂，1.2g/l的去油剂，2g/l的分散剂，分散染料，浴比为1：12，以2℃/min的升温速率从常温升至80℃，再以1.5℃/min的升温速率升至125℃，保温40min，之后以2.5℃/min的降温速率降温；3) Dyeing: dyeing the semi-finished product after the predetermined type, adding 1.5g/l glacial acetic acid, 2g/l leveling agent, 1.2g/l degreaser, 2g/l dispersant, disperse dye, The bath ratio was 1:12, the temperature was raised from normal temperature to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 2 ° C / min, and then raised to 125 ° C at a heating rate of 1.5 ° C / min, held for 40 min, and then cooled at a cooling rate of 2.5 ° C / min;
4)上柔：将染色后的半成品在专用于起绒面料常温的染槽进行上柔处理，加入5g/l的起毛剂，2g/l的柔软剂，浴比为1：8，处理时间为20min；4) Upper softness: The dyed semi-finished product is softened in a dyeing tank specially designed for the normal temperature of the pile fabric, adding 5g/l of a hair raising agent, 2g/l of softener, and a bath ratio of 1:8. The processing time is 20min;
5)刷毛：采用6台刷毛机，先刷半成品毛圈面1台，再翻面刷平面2台，再翻面刷毛圈面3台，导布速度27-29m/min，覆针相对速度85-90％，起针相对速度100-110％，入布张力1.5-1.7g/cm2，出布张力1.8-2g/cm2；5) bristles: 6 sets of bristles are used, firstly brush one semi-finished terry surface, then turn over the surface of the brush 2 sets, then turn over the surface of the bristles, the guide cloth speed is 27-29m/min, and the relative speed of the needle is 85. -90%, the relative speed of the needle is 100-110%, the tension of the cloth is 1.5-1.7g/cm 2 , and the tension of the cloth is 1.8-2g/cm 2 ;
6)梳毛：梳理刷断的毛圈面，导布速度22m/min，各段张力94-97kg/cm2，梳毛 率为160-165％；6) Comb: comb the brushed loop surface, the guide cloth speed is 22m/min, the tension of each section is 94-97kg/cm 2 , and the combing rate is 160-165%;
7)剪毛：调节三角刀和圆刀的距离和角度，剪掉超过1.8-2mm的绒毛；7) Shearing: adjust the distance and angle of the triangle knife and the round knife, and cut off the fluff more than 1.8-2mm;
8)摇粒：将半成品进行摇粒处理，温度为90℃，热风时间15min，蒸汽时间10min，冷风时间12min，摇粒出桶后立即进行理布处理；8) Shake: The semi-finished product is subjected to the granulation treatment at a temperature of 90 ° C, a hot air time of 15 min, a steam time of 10 min, and a cold air time of 12 min.
9)背刷：将半成品平面一面用一台刷毛机再次刷毛；9) Back brush: the side of the semi-finished product is brushed again with a brushing machine;
10)成定：将背刷后的半成品放入定型机定型处理，定型温度为150℃，喂布速度为22m/min，并超喂15％，风量60％。10) Set: The semi-finished product after back brushing is placed in the setting machine for shaping, the setting temperature is 150 °C, the feeding speed is 22m/min, and the overfeed is 15%, and the air volume is 60%.
所述毛圈机生产坯布的参数为毛圈机沉降片高度为2.2mm，毛圈纱30D/36F的线长为58cm/100枚；底纱50D/72F的线长为19.5cm/100枚；下机门幅162cm，下机克重240g/m2。The parameter of the loop fabric for producing the grey fabric is that the height of the terry sinker is 2.2 mm, the length of the loop yarn 30D/36F is 58 cm/100, and the length of the bottom yarn 50D/72F is 19.5 cm/100; The lower door width is 162cm, and the lower machine weight is 240g/m 2 .
所述高密度绒面保暖面料的横密为110个线圈/5cm，纵密为185个线圈/5cm，幅宽150cm，克重228g/m2。The high-density suede warm fabric has a transverse density of 110 coils/5 cm, a longitudinal density of 185 coils/5 cm, a width of 150 cm, and a weight of 228 g/m 2 .
本发明采用了细旦的超细纤维在极细针距的纬编毛巾机上添加氨纶，织造出密度很高很密的弹力毛巾布。再经过特别的染整工艺，制成绒类保暖面料。其防风性能主要是靠织物密度紧密而形成的，而不是靠贴防水透气膜来达到此功能的。The invention adopts the fine-denier ultra-fine fiber to add spandex on the fine-pitch weft knitting machine, and weaves the elastic terry cloth with high density and denseness. After a special dyeing and finishing process, it is made into a velvet warm fabric. Its windproof performance is mainly formed by the dense density of the fabric, instead of relying on a waterproof breathable membrane to achieve this function.
本发明所述为一种针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法，本发明密度高，回弹性好，防风透气性能好，蓬松保暖，克重适中，工序相比贴合面料简单，手感柔软舒适。The invention relates to a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric. The invention has high density, good resilience, good wind and air permeability, fluffy and warm, moderate weight, and the process is simple and soft and comfortable.
以上所述仅为本发明的具体实施方式，但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此，任何熟悉本领域的技术人员在本发明所揭露的技术范围内，可不经过创造性劳动想到的变化或替换，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。因此，本发明的保 护范围应该以权利要求书所限定的保护范围为准。 The above description is only the specific embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art can change or replace without thinking of the creative work within the technical scope of the present invention. All should be covered by the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection of the present invention The scope of protection should be based on the scope of protection defined in the claims.

Claims (3)

  1. 一种针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法，其特征在于：采用30D/36F涤纶低弹丝作为毛圈纱，50D/72F涤纶低弹丝作为底纱，在底纱中添纱40D氨纶，在36G/30″的毛圈机上按参数编织形成毛坯，并经过水洗、预定、染色、上柔、刷毛、梳毛、剪毛、摇粒、背刷以及成定工序制得高密度绒面保暖面料，具体包括如下步骤：The invention relates to a method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable warm fabric, which is characterized in that 30D/36F polyester low elastic yarn is used as a loop yarn, 50D/72F polyester low elastic yarn is used as a bottom yarn, and 40D spandex is added in a bottom yarn at 36G. /30"'s terry machine is woven according to the parameters to form a blank, and is washed, pre-sorted, dyed, softened, bristled, combed, sheared, shaken, back brushed and formed into a high-density suede warm fabric, including The following steps:
    1)水洗：将毛坯放入水中，并添加1.8g/l的去油剂，浴比为1：10，升温至110℃后，保温时间20min；1) Washing: the blank is placed in water, and 1.8g/l of degreaser is added, the bath ratio is 1:10, and the temperature is raised to 110 ° C, and the holding time is 20 min;
    2)预定：将水洗后的半成品放入定型机预定型处理，定型温度为150℃，喂布速度为20m/min，并超喂20％,下机幅宽155-160cm，下机克重230g/m2；2) Scheduling: The semi-finished product after washing is placed in a predetermined type of setting machine, the setting temperature is 150 ° C, the feeding speed is 20 m/min, and the feeding speed is 20%, the lower machine width is 155-160 cm, and the lower machine weight is 230 g. /m 2 ;
    3)染色：对预定型后的半成品进行染色处理，添加1.5g/l的冰醋酸，2g/l的匀染剂，1.2g/l的去油剂，2g/l的分散剂，分散染料，浴比为1：12，以2℃/min的升温速率从常温升至80℃，再以1.5℃/min的升温速率升至125℃，保温40min，之后以2.5℃/min的降温速率降温；3) Dyeing: dyeing the semi-finished product after the predetermined type, adding 1.5g/l glacial acetic acid, 2g/l leveling agent, 1.2g/l degreaser, 2g/l dispersant, disperse dye, The bath ratio was 1:12, the temperature was raised from normal temperature to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 2 ° C / min, and then raised to 125 ° C at a heating rate of 1.5 ° C / min, held for 40 min, and then cooled at a cooling rate of 2.5 ° C / min;
    4)上柔：将染色后的半成品在专用于起绒面料常温的染槽进行上柔处理，加入5g/l的起毛剂，2g/l的柔软剂，浴比为1：8，处理时间为20min；4) Upper softness: The dyed semi-finished product is softened in a dyeing tank specially designed for the normal temperature of the pile fabric, adding 5g/l of a hair raising agent, 2g/l of softener, and a bath ratio of 1:8. The processing time is 20min;
    5)刷毛：采用6台刷毛机，先刷半成品毛圈面1台，再翻面刷平面2台，再翻面刷毛圈面3台，导布速度27-29m/min，覆针相对速度85-90％，起针相对速度100-110％，入布张力1.5-1.7g/cm2，出布张力1.8-2g/cm2；5) bristles: 6 sets of bristles are used, firstly brush one semi-finished terry surface, then turn over the surface of the brush 2 sets, then turn over the surface of the bristles, the guide cloth speed is 27-29m/min, and the relative speed of the needle is 85. -90%, the relative speed of the needle is 100-110%, the tension of the cloth is 1.5-1.7g/cm 2 , and the tension of the cloth is 1.8-2g/cm 2 ;
    6)梳毛：梳理刷断的毛圈面，导布速度22m/min，各段张力94-97kg/cm2，梳毛率为160-165％；6) Comb: comb the brushed surface of the brush, the guide speed is 22m/min, the tension of each section is 94-97kg/cm 2 , and the combing rate is 160-165%;
    7)剪毛：调节三角刀和圆刀的距离和角度，剪掉超过1.8-2mm的绒毛；7) Shearing: adjust the distance and angle of the triangle knife and the round knife, and cut off the fluff more than 1.8-2mm;
    8)摇粒：将半成品进行摇粒处理，温度为90℃，热风时间15min，蒸汽时间10min，冷风时间12min，摇粒出桶后立即进行理布处理； 8) Shake: The semi-finished product is subjected to the granulation treatment at a temperature of 90 ° C, a hot air time of 15 min, a steam time of 10 min, and a cold air time of 12 min.
    9)背刷：将半成品平面一面用一台刷毛机再次刷毛；9) Back brush: the side of the semi-finished product is brushed again with a brushing machine;
    10)成定：将背刷后的半成品放入定型机定型处理，定型温度为150℃，喂布速度为22m/min，并超喂15％，风量60％。10) Set: The semi-finished product after back brushing is placed in the setting machine for shaping, the setting temperature is 150 °C, the feeding speed is 22m/min, and the overfeed is 15%, and the air volume is 60%.
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法，其特征在于：所述毛圈机生产坯布的参数为毛圈机沉降片高度为2.2mm，毛圈纱30D/36F的线长为58cm/100枚；底纱50D/72F的线长为19.5cm/100枚；下机门幅162cm，下机克重240g/m2。The method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable thermal fabric according to claim 1, wherein the parameter of the terry cloth for producing the grey fabric is that the height of the terry sinker is 2.2 mm, and the length of the loop yarn 30D/36F is 58cm/100 pieces; the length of the bottom yarn 50D/72F is 19.5cm/100 pieces; the lower machine door width is 162cm, and the lower machine weight is 240g/m 2 .
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的针织防风透气保暖面料的生产方法，其特征在于：所述高密度绒面保暖面料的横密为110个线圈/5cm，纵密为185个线圈/5cm，幅宽150cm，克重228g/m2。 The method for producing a knitted windproof and breathable thermal fabric according to claim 1, wherein the high density suede warm fabric has a transverse density of 110 coils/5 cm, a longitudinal density of 185 coils/5 cm, and a width of 150 cm. The weight is 228g/m 2 .
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