CN103074722A - Textile, and production method and application thereof - Google Patents
Textile, and production method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN103074722A CN103074722A CN201110361806.XA CN201110361806A CN103074722A CN 103074722 A CN103074722 A CN 103074722A CN 201110361806 A CN201110361806 A CN 201110361806A CN 103074722 A CN103074722 A CN 103074722A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a textile, and a production method and application thereof. At least over 30 weight percent of yarns in the textile are false-twist textured yarns with irregularly-shaped sections, wherein the false-twist textured yarns are formed by the incomplete drafting and false twist of ordinary polyester and cationic dyeable modified polyester composite fibers, the fiber number of a single fiber is 2 to 15 deniers, and thick and thin sections in a length direction are alternate. The maximum suction height of the textile is more than 50mm. The textile looks and touches cool, fluffy and smooth, and is suitable for making uniforms, shirts, sportswear, dresses for women, and the like.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of textiles and production method thereof and application.
Background technology
In recent years, along with the development of science and technology and improving constantly of people's living standard, people are also more and more higher to the requirement of clothes.And in to the color of garment material, feel, pursuit, to its comfortableness, functionally also have higher requirement.The fabric in summer particularly more requires it to have suction, rapid-curing cutback, the combination property such as ventilative, refrigerant.
At present, summer, fabric was main mainly with cotton textiles greatly, and moisture pick-up properties is no doubt good, but ixoderm skin very easily after the moisture absorption make human body produce sense of discomfort, and rate of drying is slow, gives the sultry sense of discomfort of people.Because the filoplume of pure cotton fabric is many, so that the space between fabric tissue reduces, so gas permeability is all relatively poor, even if by reducing density, permeability improves, but refrigerant sense is not enough, and becomes large because density reduces the suture slippage cause when making, easily reveal the needlework hole, also affected the activity of limbs simultaneously.
In order to address this is that, the fabric made take cation dyeable tight spot yarn as raw material has been proposed among the China publication CN101165244, this fabric has certain good color emissivity, the stripe effect of the depth, but slightly aobvious coarse, the water imbibition of feel and refrigerant sense are not enough; And for example proposed a kind of refrigerant sense, water-absorbing fast-drying fabric that adopts the heavy denier yarn among the Chinese publication CN101368312, solved cost height and the unmanageable problem of technique, but because denier count as received is excessively thick, and feel is too coarse, snugness of fit has been not good.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to solve the defective of traditional refrigerant sense fabric, a kind of textiles and production method and application with good water imbibition, gas permeability, smooth feeling and refrigerant sense is provided.
Technical solution of the present invention:
In the textiles of the present invention the above yarn of at least 30 % by weight be the filament fiber number that forms behind special-shaped section and the incomplete drafting false twisting of composite fibre by conventional polyester and cation dyeable modified polyester between 2～15 Denier, false twist textured yarn that length direction thickness joint is alternate, the maximum suction head of this textiles is more than 50mm.
The false twist textured yarn here is the precursor that is composited by cationic chromophilous polyethylene terephthalate and common polyethylene terephthalate, obtains the alternate false twist textured yarn of length direction thickness joint through incomplete drafting false twisting processing again.Add man-hour carrying out incomplete drafting false twisting, the total draft multiplying power is 1.3～2.4; Hot pin temperature is 40～120 ℃; Drafting multiple before and after the hot pin is 1.1～1.6; Hot plate temperature is 120～220 ℃.The false twist textured yarn slubbing compares 1.1～1.6 with the diameter of details: 1.
It is special-shaped that its section of false twist textured yarn that the present invention adopts is, and is specially the irregular cycle section.This section configuration is obtained by low reduction rate processing, forms groove at fiber surface, thereby produces capillary effect, reaches good water imbibition.
The filament fiber number of above-mentioned false twist textured yarn can be given its distinctive rigidity and resilience in the time of in this scope between 2～15 Denier, make it to become have excellent smooth feeling, the fabric of pelvic bone sense.When filament fiber number less than 2 Denier, smooth feeling can reduce, be difficult to obtain having the material of refrigerant sense.On the contrary, when the filament fiber number surpassed 15 Denier, the rigidity of textiles and resilience so that the comfort level of the clothes of making reduces, were made the aspect and also can be gone wrong too greatly.Preferred filament fiber number is 3～12 Denier.
Water imbibition is according to JIS 1907 methods, measures the suction head on its direction of warp and weft.Maximum suction head refers to the maximum in the direction of warp and weft.
The content of above-mentioned false twist textured yarn is more than 30 % by weight in the textiles of the present invention, on the basis of the smooth feeling that guarantees textiles and refrigerant sense, the yarn of surplus is from strengthening the viewpoint of absorbing sweat moisture absorption or feel, can use the yarn or the pure natural fiber yarn that contain natural fabric, one or more in preferred polyester/silk/cotton blended yarn (hereinafter to be referred as the polyester-cotton blend staple fibre yarn), polyester/viscose blended yarn (hereinafter to be referred as washing sticking staple fibre yarn), cotton fiber, the flax fibre.
Textiles of the present invention is woven fabric, and its tightness (being density coverage coefficient CF) is 1200～2200, and computing formula is shown below,
CF＝(DWp)
1/2×MWp+(DWf)
1/2×MWf
Wherein, DWp is warp thread total fiber number (dtex), and MWp is through silk weaving density (root/2.54cm)
DWf is weft yarn total fiber number (dtex), and MWf is that tram is knitted density (root/2.54cm).
When using the weaving silk such as staple fibre, natural fabric or blended ratio, be converted into dtex and calculate tightness (CF) propping up.When the CF value less than 1200 the time, permeation-proof poor performance, and the slippage of fabric and seam slippage phenomenon can be very serious.When the CF value surpasses 2200, although the permeation-proof performance well the seam slippage problem can not occur yet, owing to reducing, aeration cause feeling of oppression and heat to strengthen on the contrary.Weave to fabric is not particularly limited, preferred plain weave or twill.The interlacing point of satin weave is few, and a little less than the boundling power to silk, when fabric adopted the low-density design, the seam slippage of sewings had the trend that becomes large.Preferred CF value is between 1500～2000, and such fabric has good smooth feeling, refrigerant sense and aeration, and is not easy to occur seam and moves distance.
The maximum friction coefficient of the direction of warp and weft of textiles of the present invention is 0.2～1.5, and the coefficient of friction that refers to the side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and broadwise is 0.2～1.5.When coefficient of kinetic friction less than 0.2, fabric face will become smoothly, does not just have refrigerant sense when wearing.When the coefficient of kinetic friction surpassed 1.5, camber caused skin to be itched too by force when wearing owing to fabric.The maximum friction coefficient of preferred direction of warp and weft is 0.5～1.5.
About the method for testing of the coefficient of kinetic friction, according to the benchmark FZ/T01054.2-1999 of the china textile Ministry of Industry, instrument satisfies the regulation of FJ552.1-85 " Fabric Style test method general provisions " the 5th chapter.Surface characteristic-automatic meter face testing machine (KES-FBI-AUTO-A) applies the tension force of 20gf/cm to any one direction in sample warp-wise and the broadwise, the pressure that applies 50gf on the contact shoe of the stationary plane of the 5 * 5cm area that forms with 10 0.5 piano wires is pressed sample, under the condition of 0.1cm/s speed, side surface direction at piano wire moves horizontally the direction that sample has applied tension force, asks automatically its dynamic friction mean coefficient MIU and coefficient of friction average deviation MMD.Sample is applied the tension force of 20gf/cm, press the sample of the tension force that has applied 10gf with the crooked contact shoe of 1 0.5 piano wire composition, automatically ask the average deviation SMD of its Roughness when under the condition of 0.1cm/s speed, moving.Then measure respectively their value at direction of warp and weft.
About venting quality, according to the assay method of JIS L 1096-1999A method (test method of woven fabric), measure 5 times after, averaged.Preferred 50～150cm
3/ cm
2/ sec.As the not enough 50cm of venting quality
3/ cm
2During/sec, although feel is no problem, make refrigerant sense variation because the intertwined point of fabric is too tight.When venting quality is higher than 150cm
3/ cm
2During/sec, although refrigerant sense is no problem, the problem of seam slippage easily occurs in fabric.
The filament of false twist textured yarn of the present invention is composited by conventional polyester and cation dyeable modified polyester, and compound cross-section is fabric of island-in-sea type or Splittable.Consider the preferred fabric of island-in-sea type of performance such as the refrigerant sense of finished product and suction.
The false-twisted yarn that at least part of employing of textiles of the present invention is undertaken forming after the incomplete drafting false twisting processing by the composite fibre of conventional polyester and cation dyeable modified polyester carries out woven or weaves, then comprise that the processing in being organized in after concise, HEAT SETTING, decrement, the dyeing makes product, wherein reduction rate is controlled in 3%～15% the scope and processes.When reduction rate is lower than 3%, do not form capillary, can not reach good water imbibition, if when reduction rate is higher than 15%, fabric will be too large owing to reduction rate, and fabric just lacks bony.In order to obtain good cloth cover effect, can carry out single face or the two-sided processing of singing.In addition, in order to reach good fast light and chlorine fastness, also can carry out rear arrangement processing.The processing conditions such as concise, HEAT SETTING, dyeing are not particularly limited.
The present invention is by adopting length direction to have the false twist textured yarn of thickness joint, again in conjunction with low reduction rate, so that the yarn section presents abnormal shape, thereby obtain to have the textiles of good water imbibition, gas permeability, smooth feeling and refrigerant sense, make Shi Buhui generation seam and move distance, be fit to make uniform, shirt, sportswear, women's dress etc.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment 1
Adopt cation dyeable modified polyester as sea component and conventional polyester as island component, on the spinning machine with fabric of island-in-sea type cross section spinnerets, spinning temperature is 300 ℃, spinning speed is to carry out melt spinning under the condition of 300m/min, obtain the compound ratio in island and be 50: 50 the compound precursor of high orientation undrafting wire, obtain the alternate 150D-48f false twist textured yarn of length direction thickness joint, wherein false twisting processing conditions through incomplete drafting false twisting processing again: process velocity 300m/min, hot pin temperature 60 C, drafting multiple 1.2～1.5 before and after the hot pin, total draft multiple 1.5～2.1,140 ℃ of hot plate temperatures.Gained false twist textured yarn slubbing compares 1.1～1.6 with the diameter of details: 1.The above-mentioned island section thickness that makes is saved false twist textured yarn as warp thread, the polyester-cotton blend staple fibre yarn (T65/C) of 45S is as weft yarn, weave with the air-jet loom plain weave, make grey cloth, then carry out concise, HEAT SETTING, two-sidedly singe, put processing in order after the decrement, dyeing, obtain textiles of the present invention, wherein reduction rate is 6%, and other techniques are with conventional.The percentage by weight of false twist textured yarn is 52% in the gained textiles, and tightness is 1860, and venting quality is 106cm
3/ cm
2/ sec, its coefficient of kinetic friction of a side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and the broadwise is 0.6～1.0, maximum suction head is 86cm.Have refrigerant sense, smooth feeling.
Embodiment 2
Adopt cation dyeable modified polyester as sea component and conventional polyester as island component, on the spinning machine with fabric of island-in-sea type cross section spinnerets, spinning temperature is 300 ℃, spinning speed is to carry out melt spinning under the condition of 300m/min, obtain the compound ratio in island and be 70: 30 the compound precursor of high orientation undrafting wire, obtain the alternate 150D-12f false twist textured yarn of length direction thickness joint, wherein false twisting processing conditions through incomplete drafting false twisting processing again: process velocity 300m/min, hot pin temperature 60 C, drafting multiple 1.25～1.55 before and after the hot pin, total draft multiple 1.4～2.2,130 ℃ of hot plate temperatures.Gained false twist textured yarn slubbing is 1.25～1.55: 1 with the diameter ratio of details.The above-mentioned island section thickness that makes is saved false twist textured yarn as warp thread, the polyester-cotton blend staple fibre yarn (T65/C) of 45S is as weft yarn, weave with air-jet loom 2/2 twill-weave, make grey cloth, then carry out concise, HEAT SETTING, two-sidedly singe, put processing in order after the decrement, dyeing, obtain textiles of the present invention, wherein reduction rate is 3%, and other techniques are with conventional.The percentage by weight of false twist textured yarn is 63% in the gained textiles, and tightness is 1780, and venting quality is 135cm
3/ cm
2/ sec, its coefficient of kinetic friction of a side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and the broadwise is 0.6～1.0, maximum suction head is 139cm.Have refrigerant sense, smooth feeling.
Embodiment 3
Adopt cation dyeable modified polyester as sea component and conventional polyester as island component, on the spinning machine with fabric of island-in-sea type cross section spinnerets, spinning temperature is 300 ℃, spinning speed is to carry out melt spinning under the condition of 300m/min, obtain the compound ratio in island and be 50: 50 the compound precursor of high orientation undrafting wire, obtain the alternate 150D-36f false twist textured yarn of length direction thickness joint, wherein false twisting processing conditions through incomplete drafting false twisting processing again: process velocity 300m/min, hot pin temperature 60 C, drafting multiple 1.2～1.5 before and after the hot pin, total draft multiple 1.5～2.1,140 ℃ of hot plate temperatures.Gained false twist textured yarn slubbing compares 1.1～1.6 with the diameter of details: 1.The above-mentioned island section thickness that makes is saved false twist textured yarn as warp thread, the polyester-cotton blend staple fibre yarn (T65/C) of 45S is as weft yarn, weave with air-jet loom twill-weave, make grey cloth, then carry out concise, HEAT SETTING, two-sidedly singe, put processing in order after the decrement, dyeing, obtain textiles of the present invention, wherein reduction rate is 12%, and other techniques are with conventional.The percentage by weight of false twist textured yarn is 40% in the gained textiles, and tightness is 1725, and venting quality is 125cm
3/ cm
2/ sec, its coefficient of kinetic friction of a side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and the broadwise is 0.8～1.2, maximum suction head is 98cm.Have refrigerant sense, smooth feeling.
Embodiment 4
Adopt the alternate 150D-36f false twist textured yarn of the length direction thickness joint that makes among the embodiment 3 as the plying polyester-cotton blend staple fibre yarn of warp thread, 260 dtexs (45/2) as weft yarn, use air-jet loom weaving, obtain through close be 114/2.54cm, filling density be 58/2.54cm through the galassing grey cloth, then carry out concise, HEAT SETTING, two-sidedly singe, put processing in order after the decrement, dyeing, obtain textiles of the present invention, wherein reduction rate is 8%, and other techniques are with conventional.The percentage by weight of false twist textured yarn is 52% in the gained textiles, and tightness is 1725, and venting quality is 80cm
3/ cm
2/ sec, its coefficient of kinetic friction of a side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and the broadwise is 0.6～1.2, maximum suction head is 120cm.Have refrigerant sense, smooth feeling.
Embodiment 5
Adopt the length direction thickness that makes among the embodiment 3 to save alternate 150D-36f false twist textured yarn as warp thread, the plying polyester/rayon yarns that 32 English prop up is as weft yarn, 2/1 grey twill that obtains with air-jet loom weaving, then carry out refining, middle typing, dyeing, suction processing, rear heat treatment according to same method, obtaining at last through density is that 132/2.54cm, weft density are the fabric of 57/2.54cm.The venting quality of this fabric is 90cm
3/ cm
2/ sec, its coefficient of kinetic friction of a side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and the broadwise is 0.6～1.2, maximum suction head is 148cm.Have refrigerant sense, smooth feeling.
Embodiment 6
Adopt cation dyeable modified polyester and conventional polyester, on the spinning machine with Splittable cross section spinnerets, spinning temperature is that 300 ℃, spinning speed are to carry out melt spinning under the condition of 300m/min, obtain compound ratio and be 50: 50 the compound precursor of high orientation undrafting wire, obtain the alternate 150D-36f false twist textured yarn of length direction thickness joint, wherein false twisting processing conditions through incomplete drafting false twisting processing again: 140 ℃ of drafting multiple 1.2～1.5, total draft multiple 1.5～2.1, hot plate temperatures before and after process velocity 300m/min, hot pin temperature 60 C, the hot pin.Gained false twist textured yarn slubbing compares 1.1～1.6 with the diameter of details: 1.The above-mentioned island section thickness that makes is saved false twist textured yarn as warp thread, the cotton staple fibre yarn of 45S is as weft yarn, weave with air-jet loom twill-weave, make grey cloth, then carry out putting processing in order after concise, HEAT SETTING, decrement, the dyeing, singing, obtain textiles of the present invention, wherein reduction rate is 8%, and other techniques are with conventional.The percentage by weight of false twist textured yarn is 55% in the gained textiles, and tightness is 2050, and venting quality is 85cm
3/ cm
2/ sec, its coefficient of kinetic friction of a side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and the broadwise is 0.5～0.8, maximum suction head is 98cm.Have refrigerant sense, smooth feeling, fluffy sense.
Embodiment 7
The 150D-48f false twist textured yarn that the length direction thickness joint that adopts embodiment 1 to make is alternate and 70D/2-25f-conductive yam by 32: 1 proportioning as warp thread, the polyester-cotton blend staple fibre yarn (T65/C) of 45S is as weft yarn, weave with the air-jet loom plain weave, make grey cloth, then carry out putting processing in order after concise, HEAT SETTING, decrement, the dyeing, singing, obtain textiles of the present invention, wherein reduction rate is 6%, and other techniques are with conventional.The percentage by weight of false twist textured yarn is 52% in the gained textiles, and tightness is 1860, and venting quality is 106cm
3/ cm
2/ sec, its coefficient of kinetic friction of a side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and the broadwise is 0.6～1.0, maximum suction head is 90cm.Have refrigerant sense, smooth feeling, fluffy sense.
Embodiment 8:
The alternate 150D-48f false twist textured yarn of length direction thickness joint that adopts embodiment 1 to make, and the polyester-cotton blend staple fibre yarn (T65/C) of 45S, weave formation polyester fibre cotton mesh fabric at 2/4 two-sided spininess road knitting machine, the odd number cam system is worn and is put the 150D-48f false twist textured yarn, is revealed in fabric face; The even number cam system is worn and is put the polyester-cotton blend staple fibre yarn, is revealed in fabric the inside (reverse side), and forms the mesh honeycomb.Per two systems form a row, and the decorative pattern height is 12 lines, is finished by 24 cam systems, then carry out putting processing in order after concise, HEAT SETTING, decrement, the dyeing, obtain textiles of the present invention, and wherein reduction rate is 6%, and other techniques are with conventional.The percentage by weight of false twist textured yarn is 48% in the gained textiles, and venting quality is 123cm
3/ cm
2/ sec, its coefficient of kinetic friction of a side that the coefficient of kinetic friction is high in warp-wise and the broadwise is 0.6～1.0, maximum suction head is 90cm.Have refrigerant sense, smooth feeling, fluffy sense.
The application of the textiles that makes among the embodiment 1-8 aspect making uniform, shirt, sportswear, women's dress.
Claims (7)
1. textiles, it is characterized in that: in this textiles the above yarn of at least 30 % by weight be have the filament fiber number that forms behind special-shaped section, the incomplete drafting false twisting of composite fibre by conventional polyester and cation dyeable modified polyester between 2～15 Denier, false twist textured yarn that length direction thickness joint is alternate, the maximum suction head of this textiles is more than 50mm.
2. textiles according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: this textiles is woven fabric, its density coverage coefficient is 1200～2200.
3. textiles according to claim 1 is characterized in that: also contain in polyester/cotton blended yarn, polyester/viscose blended yarn, cotton fiber, the flax fibre one or more in this textiles.
4. textiles according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the filament section of described false twist textured yarn is fabric of island-in-sea type or Splittable.
5. according to claim 1,2 or 3 described textiless, it is characterized in that: the maximum friction coefficient of the direction of warp and weft of this textiles is 0.2～1.5, throughput is 50～150cm
3/ cm
2/ s.
6. the production method of a textiles claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: the false-twisted yarn that adopts at least the composite fibre by conventional polyester and cation dyeable modified polyester to carry out forming after the incomplete drafting false twisting processing carries out woven or weaves, then comprise that the processing in being organized in after concise, HEAT SETTING, decrement, the dyeing makes product, wherein reduction rate is controlled in 3%～15% the scope and processes.
7. the application of textiles claimed in claim 1 aspect making uniform, shirt, sportswear, women's dress.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201110361806.XA CN103074722A (en) | 2011-10-25 | 2011-10-25 | Textile, and production method and application thereof |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201110361806.XA CN103074722A (en) | 2011-10-25 | 2011-10-25 | Textile, and production method and application thereof |
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| CN103074722A true CN103074722A (en) | 2013-05-01 |
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Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103552337A (en) * | 2013-11-06 | 2014-02-05 | 吴江市森豪纺织品有限公司 | Multifunctional sea-island fiber fabric |
| CN103757792A (en) * | 2014-01-06 | 2014-04-30 | 徐州斯尔克纤维科技股份有限公司 | Production method of knitted fabric visually simulating loose fiber |
| CN105348569A (en) * | 2015-12-16 | 2016-02-24 | 费珏璐 | Composite high-polymer material as well as preparation method and application thereof |
| CN107385958A (en) * | 2017-08-15 | 2017-11-24 | 太仓市明烨化纤有限公司 | A kind of dyeing and finishing technology of fiber blend color-woven fabric |
| CN108342818A (en) * | 2017-01-25 | 2018-07-31 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A kind of cotton feeling knitted fabric |
-
2011
- 2011-10-25 CN CN201110361806.XA patent/CN103074722A/en active Pending
Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103552337A (en) * | 2013-11-06 | 2014-02-05 | 吴江市森豪纺织品有限公司 | Multifunctional sea-island fiber fabric |
| CN103757792A (en) * | 2014-01-06 | 2014-04-30 | 徐州斯尔克纤维科技股份有限公司 | Production method of knitted fabric visually simulating loose fiber |
| CN105348569A (en) * | 2015-12-16 | 2016-02-24 | 费珏璐 | Composite high-polymer material as well as preparation method and application thereof |
| CN108342818A (en) * | 2017-01-25 | 2018-07-31 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A kind of cotton feeling knitted fabric |
| CN108342818B (en) * | 2017-01-25 | 2021-01-15 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Cotton-feeling knitted fabric |
| CN107385958A (en) * | 2017-08-15 | 2017-11-24 | 太仓市明烨化纤有限公司 | A kind of dyeing and finishing technology of fiber blend color-woven fabric |
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Application publication date: 20130501 |