CH710983B1 - Cosmetics composition with saffron blossom leaf extract. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a safflower flower leaf extract. The cosmetic composition has an invigorating effect, antioxidant properties, is stress-reducing, anti-inflammatory, antifungal and antibacterial, regenerates the skin, strengthens the body's immune system and slows down the aging process. It is therefore particularly suitable for cosmetic care, refreshing, regenerating and / or protecting the skin.

Description

Description The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition which contains saffron flower leaf extract.

When harvesting the flower threads of Crocus sativus (saffron) large amounts of petals are obtained. In some countries, these are used as animal feed, but mostly they are simply disposed of.

[0003] The use of saffron petals in medicine is known. Basti et al. (Progress in Neuro-Phsychopharmacology & Biological Psychiatry 2007, 31,439-442) describe a positive effect of a saffron petal extract in the treatment of depressed people. The ingredient safranal, which was administered in a dosage of 0.30 to 0.35 mg, is held responsible for the positive effect. Bhat et al. (International Journal of Phytopharmacology 2012, 3 (1), 27-31) describe the anti-inflammatory effects of a methanol saffron petal extract.

An object of the present invention is to provide an alternative use for saffron petals.

This object is achieved by the cosmetic composition according to claim 1 and the uses according to claims 9 and 10. Preferred embodiments are the subject of the dependent claims.

Surprisingly, it was found that by extracting saffron petals a saffron petal extract can be obtained, which has a very pleasant taste somewhat reminiscent of honey and contains abundant substances with an antioxidant effect. These are in particular various anthocyanins, flavanoids and polyphenols. These substances have a protective and healing effect on human skin cells.

Human skin is permanently subjected to oxidative stress. The antixodative substances in the saffron petal extract can protect skin cells from this stress and have been shown to promote the regeneration of damaged skin cells.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition containing a saffron petal extract.

The saffron petal extract can be obtained for example by means of ASE (accelerated solvent extraction), the speed and efficiency of the extraction being improved by increasing the temperature and pressure. For example, extracts with acetone, methanol and / or ethanol are possible.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention has an invigorating effect, antioxidant properties, has an anti-stress, anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal and antibacterial effect, regenerates the skin, strengthens the body's immune system and slows down the aging process. With a dermal application, a skin-caring, skin-regenerating and skin-protecting effect could be observed.

With its unique properties, the composition is ideal for the care of the skin during a postoperative period, rehabilitation after an illness, fatigue, exhaustion, change in climatic conditions, etc.

[0012] The human body is constantly exposed to physical and chemical stress. Reactive oxygen species (ROM), such as H ₂ O ₂ , are one of the main causes of oxidative stress in the cells.

Using an MTT assay (MTT = 3- (4,5-dimethylthiazole-2-yl) -2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bormide) it was found that the saffron petal extract itself has no cytotoxic effect on immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT). On the contrary: the cell proliferation even seems to be stimulated by the extract. The acetone extract in particular showed a significant increase in cell proliferation depending on the dose.

UVB radiation experiments also showed that the cosmetic composition according to the invention is able to repair cells damaged by UVB radiation (BrdU assay). The acetone extract in particular appears to prevent cell damage. It also led to a significant increase in cell migration in a wound healing assay.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is suitable both for protection against oxidative stress of the skin cells and for the regeneration of the cells after they have been exposed to oxidative stress. The ingredients of the saffron petal extract have UV-absorbing properties and an antioxidative stress protection effect. The composition according to the invention thus protects the skin against UV radiation and against oxidative changes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.5 to 2%, of saffron flower leaf extract. The saffron flower leaf extract is preferably a 1: 1 extract, i.e. the extract is in a 1: 1 ratio with the drug. It has been shown that optimal results in terms of consistency and effect are achieved in this concentration range.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains an acetone-saffron petal extract, i.e. the extract used was obtained by extracting the saffron petals with acetone. Saffron petals can be extracted particularly well with acetone. The acetone extract is particularly suitable for use in the cosmetics sector.

CH 710 983 B1 [0018] Alternatively, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can also contain an alcoholic saffron petal extract, in particular an ethanolic saffron petal extract. Alcoholic extracts are also well suited for use in the cosmetics sector.

According to a preferred embodiment, the saffron petal extract contained in the composition according to the invention contains at least 3%, preferably at least 4% and most preferably at least 5% polyphenol, based on the total weight of the saffron petal extract. It has been shown that the antioxidative effect is optimal with such a polyphenol content.

According to a preferred embodiment, the saffron petal extract contained in the composition according to the invention contains at least 2%, preferably at least 3% and most preferably at least 4% flavanoids based on the total weight of the saffron petal extract. It has been shown that the regenerative effect is optimal with such a flavanoid content.

[0021] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for dermal application.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a lotion, a cream, an emulsion, a gel, a tonic, a serum, a facial toner, a soap, an ointment, a paste, a shampoo or a peeling ,

Basically, however, the composition according to the invention can also be any other cosmetic product or a precursor thereof, in which the above-mentioned effects could be advantageous.

Particularly preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a face lotion, a body lotion, a hand lotion, a sun lotion, a face cream, a day cream, a night cream, a moisturizing cream, an anti-aging cream, an anti-wrinkle cream , an anti-pimple cream, a regeneration cream, a covering cream, an eye cream, a hand cream, a foot cream, a sun cream, an after sun lotion, a sun spray, a skin care emulsion, a face gel, an eye gel, a sun gel, a shower gel Shaving gel, a facial tonic, a care serum, an anti-aging serum, a makeup remover, an aftershave, a deodorant, a skin ointment, a healing ointment, a fatty ointment, a face mask, a soap, a bath additive, a shampoo or a peeling.

The cosmetic, refreshing, regenerating and protective properties of the composition according to the invention described above are particularly advantageous in the case of cosmetic products which are applied to the skin.

It has been shown that the composition according to the invention is particularly well suited for sun protection and after-sun products because it is not only refreshing and moisturizing, but additionally also promotes cell renewal and repair. In addition, the risk of skin cancer can also be reduced because the cells are better protected against oxidative stress and UV radiation by the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can contain any other ingredients commonly used for cosmetics, such as oils and fats, essential oils and other odorants, biocides and other preservatives, other active ingredients, water, wax, etc., in addition to the saffron petal extract Fat phase in a skin cream can be adapted to the desired properties by adding other active ingredients, e.g. Dexpanthenol, vitamin E etc. can also be used.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention additionally contains an oil, preferably almond oil. Almond oil penetrates well into the skin, soothes irritation and nourishes the skin and can therefore further improve the properties of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

In a further aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of a saffron petal extract for the production of a cosmetic composition, in particular for the production of a cosmetic composition as described above. The preferred embodiments mentioned above are also preferred here.

In addition, the present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care, refreshment, regeneration and / or protection of the skin. This is particularly advantageous before or after sunbathing, sunburn, after an operation to improve wound healing, to regenerate the skin in the event of irritation from allergies or radiation, to reduce skin aging or as anti-aging care.

The following examples are intended to further illustrate the present invention:

Basis: Production of a Saffron Petal Extract If you want to use the valuable ingredients of the saffron petals, the best way to get them is by extraction. Basically, all common extraction methods come into consideration:

CH 710 983 B1

a) Hot extraction with solvents:

For hot extraction with solvents at reflux, depending on the final use, water, ethanol, methanol, acetone and mixtures thereof are suitable.

b) Accelerateci solvent extraction (ASE):

The Accelerated Solvent Extraction (ASE) - or in German the accelerated extraction with solvents - takes place approximately according to the known pressure cooker principle. At high pressures and temperatures of 120-180 ° C in the presence of suitable solvents or solvent mixtures, organic substances are extracted from solid matrices. The ASE process combines the advantages of cold extraction processes with the advantages of hot extraction. At the same time, the disadvantages such as Avoid formation of emulsions (cold extraction) or decomposition of organic substances (hot extraction).

c) Co-distillation:

Co-distillation (attar) is essentially about extracting the latter from plants with a low proportion of essential oils. Co-distillation with another natural product, e.g. Sandalwood. The distillation is carried out with steam.

d) Maceration:

In the maceration, the material to be extracted is placed in a maceration kettle and covered with a solvent. Water, ethanol, methanol, acetone and mixtures of these and other solvents are suitable as solvents.

Example 1: Maceration of saffron petals 2 kg of dried saffron petals were placed in a maceration container with 40 l and covered with 3 l of ethanol (96%). The mixture was left at 19-23 ° C for 10 days.

The macerate was then drained through the bottom outlet and rinsed with 1-2 l of ethanol (96%). The yield could be increased by pressing off the solvent. The combined ethanolic extracts were then evaporated on a rotary evaporator under a water jet vacuum at approx. 60 ° C. to such an extent that in the end there was a ratio of drug to macerate of 1: 1. The regenerated alcohol can be reused.

The extract obtained in this way contained:

Approximately 5% polyphenols (calculated as quercetin)

Approximately 4% total flavanoids The effective content of polyphenols and flavanoids varies from crop to crop and is dependent on the climatic conditions and soil properties.

Example 2: Use of the saffron petal extract in cosmetics

a) Face cream anti-aging, after-sun:

[0041] A skin cream has the following composition, for example:

120 g almond oil g tegomuls g beeswax g shea butter g saffron petal extract (acetone extract)

450 g demin. Water The water was mixed with the saffron flower leaf extract, heated to 75 ° C. and emulsified into the melted fat phase (almond oil, tegomuls, beeswax, shea butter) with vigorous stirring.

The cream was also preserved with PHB ester (para-hydroxybenzoic acid ester), a biocide.

b) Lotion with Saffron Petal Extract A lotion for skin care can be structured as follows, for example:

Fat phase:

g almond oil g shea butter g cetyl alcohol g beeswax g lysolecithin

CH 710 983 B1 [0046] Finished lotion (approx. 60 g):

g fat phase g water [0047] active ingredient:

3-7 g saffron flower leaf extract (acetone extract) [0048] Preservative:

0.6. Paraben K The lotion was prepared by mixing and stirring the components.

Example 3: MTT assay for examining the cell response to H2O2. Saffron petal extract (acetone extract) and the positive controls melatonin and quercetin were dissolved in 0.1% DMSO and then in s.f. DMEM (Dulbecco’s Modified Eagle’s Medium) diluted.

HaCaT cells were applied with a density of 3 * 10 ⁴ cells on two 96-well plates. After an incubation period of 24 hours, the cells were washed once with DPBS (Dulbecco's Phosphate Buffered Saline) and provided with the test substance (100 μΙ). After a further 22 hours of incubation, the cells were washed again with DPBS and 0.2 mM H2O2 was applied to the cells to create a stress response.

The cell culture of one plate was washed again and with 100 μΙ s.f. DMEM offset. Then this plate was incubated for a further 24 hours.

The cell culture of the second plate was washed and treated with 5 mg MTT / ml DPBS (1:10 diluted with s.f. DMEM); afterwards it was incubated for a further two hours.

After the incubation period, the MTT assay was carried out. The number of living cells was measured with a test wavelength at 510 nm and with a reference wavelength at 630 nm.

results:

[0055]

- If the cells are treated only with saffron petal extract (10-100 pg / ml) and melatonin (0.01-1 mM) or quercetin (25 and 50 μΜ), i.e. without H2O2, no effect on the cells was detectable.

- Incubation of the pretreated cells with 0.2 mM Η ₂ Ο ₂ for 30 minutes reduced the proportion of living cells by 50%. When these cells were subsequently incubated with sf DMEM for 24 h, the cell viability increased up to 80%.

Conclusion:

The results showed that the saffron petal extract offers protection against oxidative stress and increases the viability of the cells. In addition, the saffron petal extract suppressed ROS-induced DNA damage, and to a greater extent than the positive controls melatonin and quercetin.

Information about the source of genetic resources and traditional knowledge according to Art. 49a PatG:

Genetic resource (s): Source (s) of the genetic resource (s):

Saffron for the production of the saffron petal extract Aargau, Switzerland

Almonds for the production of almond oil Spain

Claims (10)

claims 1. Cosmetic composition containing a saffron petal extract. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, containing 0.1 to 5% w / v, preferably 0.5 to 2% w / v of saffron flower leaf extract. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the saffron petal extract is an acetone extract. 4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the saffron flower leaf extract contains at least 3%, preferably at least 4% and most preferably at least 5% polyphenol based on the total weight of the saffron flower leaf extract. 5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the saffron petal extract contains at least 2%, preferably at least 3% and most preferably at least 4% flavanoids based on the total weight of the saffron petal extract. CH 710 983 B1 6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, selected from the group consisting of a lotion, a cream, an emulsion, a gel, a tonic, a serum, a facial toner, a soap, an ointment, a paste, a shampoo and an exfoliation. 7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, selected from the group consisting of a face lotion, a body lotion, a hand lotion, a sun lotion, a face cream, a day cream, a night cream, a moisturizer, an anti-aging cream, an anti-wrinkle cream , an anti-pimple cream, a regeneration cream, a covering cream, an eye cream, a hand cream, a foot cream, a sun cream, an after sun lotion, a sun spray, a skin care emulsion, a face gel, an eye gel, a sun gel, a shower gel, a Shaving gel, a facial tonic, a care serum, an anti-aging serum, a makeup remover, an aftershave, a deodorant, a skin ointment, a healing ointment, a fatty ointment, a face mask, a soap, a bath additive, a shampoo and a peeling. 8. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, additionally containing an oil, preferably almond oil. 9. Use of a saffron petal extract for the production of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8. 10. Use of the cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, for cosmetic care, refreshment, regeneration and / or protection of the skin.