WO2024052870A1 - Gel aqueux solide à usage cosmétique - Google Patents

Gel aqueux solide à usage cosmétique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024052870A1
WO2024052870A1 PCT/IB2023/058920 IB2023058920W WO2024052870A1 WO 2024052870 A1 WO2024052870 A1 WO 2024052870A1 IB 2023058920 W IB2023058920 W IB 2023058920W WO 2024052870 A1 WO2024052870 A1 WO 2024052870A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
stick form
form according
solid cosmetic
composition
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2023/058920
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Mariangela CAMOZZI
Mattia VERDERIO
Alverio Malpede
Sheila MIGOTTO
Laura MONTI
Piero Origo
Original Assignee
Art Cosmetics S.R.L.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Art Cosmetics S.R.L. filed Critical Art Cosmetics S.R.L.
Publication of WO2024052870A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024052870A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229—Sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition in stick form consisting of a continuous aqueous solid phase, possibly with the addition of pigments and/or pearls, the process for the preparation thereof, and the cosmetic use of said composition for body and/or facial skin care and/or make-up.
  • WO2020/141276 discloses cosmetic compositions sufficiently rigid to be prepared in stick form.
  • the essential characteristic of said compositions is that they contain at least three hydrophilic gelling agents selected from natural or synthetic polysaccharides.
  • compositions containing agar-agar, xanthan gum and gellan gum are disclosed. Said document states that solid compositions in stick form containing only one or two gelling agents tend to bend when the sticks are held in the horizontal position, thereby prejudicing their use.
  • the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition in stick form consisting of a continuous aqueous solid phase comprising: a) 0.01-10% by weight of the total weight of the composition of not more than two hydrophilic gelling agents selected from natural or naturally- derived polysaccharides; b) 0.1-70% by weight of the total weight of the composition of one or more polyols.
  • the invention also relates to a process for the preparation of the solid cosmetic composition in stick form as defined above, comprising: i) preparing a liquid aqueous phase by mixing the ingredients of the liquid aqueous phase in water under stirring at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours; ii) adding and mixing the gelling agents under stirring at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours; iii) optionally adding and dispersing the pearls and/or pigments under stirring at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours; iv) pouring the resulting mixture, maintained at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, into a suitable mould or container, and v) cooling the resulting product to room temperature.
  • a further object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the solid cosmetic composition in stick form as defined above for body and/or facial skin care and/or makeup.
  • the object of the present invention is a solid cosmetic composition in stick form consisting of a continuous aqueous solid phase comprising: a) not more than two hydrophilic gelling agents selected from natural or naturally- derived polysaccharides, amounting to 0.01-10% by weight of the total weight of the composition; b) one or more polyols amounting to 0.1-70% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not contain polyethylene glycol (PEG).
  • PEG polyethylene glycol
  • the gelling agent or the gelling agents is/are preferably present in a percentage ranging from 0.2 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • two gelling agents are present.
  • the gelling agent(s) preferably do not include galactitol, erythritol, inositol, ribitol, di thioerythritol or dithiothreitol.
  • the natural or naturally- derived polysaccharides which act as gelling agents are preferably selected from carrageenan or extract of Chondrus crispus (red alga), gum arabic (from Acacia senega!), xanthan gum, carboxymethylcellulose, gellan gum, agar, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, tara gum, diutan gum, hydroxypropyl starch, carboxymethyl starch, alginates, carob gum (Ceratonia sihqua), pectin, glucomannans and tamarind gum. Carrageenan and gum arabic are particularly preferred.
  • one or more polyols are present in a percentage ranging from 1 to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyols are preferably selected from pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, methylpropanediol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, xylitol, isopentyldiol and ethylhexylglycerin.
  • pentylene glycol and 1,2-hexanediol are preferably used.
  • the composition can also contain pearls (pearlescent pigments) and/or pigments in addition to the continuous aqueous solid phase, in a percentage ranging from 0-60%, preferably 10-40%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the pigments can be inorganic pigments, such as iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, ultramarine blue, ultramarine pink, manganese violet, ferric ferrocyanide, chromium oxide and chromium oxide hydrated or organic pigments, such as lakes (deposited on an alumina or barium substrate) and cochineal, and can undergo surface treatments, namely chemical, electrochemical or mechanical surface treatments.
  • the pearls can be based on natural mica or synthetic mica (synthetic fluorphlogopite), silica, alumina or calcium aluminium borosilicate.
  • composition can also contain one or more cosmetic ingredients selected from preservatives, preservation boosters, sunscreens, active ingredients and extracts, perfumes, pH adjusters, antioxidants or other ingredients that improve texture or comfort when the product is applied onto the skin.
  • cosmetic ingredients selected from preservatives, preservation boosters, sunscreens, active ingredients and extracts, perfumes, pH adjusters, antioxidants or other ingredients that improve texture or comfort when the product is applied onto the skin.
  • composition can also contain one or more film-forming agents selected, for example, from those of natural origin (starches, hydroxypropyl starches) or synthetic origin (acrylic copolymers, acrylic/styrene copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone).
  • film-forming agents selected, for example, from those of natural origin (starches, hydroxypropyl starches) or synthetic origin (acrylic copolymers, acrylic/styrene copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone).
  • a further object of the present invention is a process for the preparation of the solid cosmetic composition described above, comprising the following steps: i) preparing a liquid aqueous phase by mixing the ingredients of the liquid aqueous phase in water under stirring at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours; ii) adding and mixing the gelling agents under stirring at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours; iii) optionally adding and dispersing the pearls and/or pigments under stirring at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours; iv) pouring the resulting mixture, maintained at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, into a suitable mould or container, and v) cooling the resulting product to room temperature.
  • a further object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the solid cosmetic composition described above for body and/or facial skin care and/or make-up.
  • the composition according to the invention differs from a classic anhydrous poured product based on oils and waxes in terms of its high percentage of water, for example ranging between 50 and 70% of the total weight of the composition (w/w), preferably between 55 and 65% w/w, and more preferably 60% w/w, which guarantees a surprising coolness during application to the skin.
  • the product also has a solid elastic structure, not a rigid structure like the classic anhydrous products.
  • the presence of water, which evaporates after the product is spread on the skin provides a persistent, no-transfer effect, which anhydrous products can only obtain if volatile and/or film-forming ingredients are used, which may be uncomfortable or poorly tolerated by individuals with particularly sensitive skin. “Persistence” here means the residence time of the product, and above all the duration of its colour intensity, from the time when it is spread on the face/body.
  • the presence of a continuous aqueous phase in the product according to the invention also allows the use of water-soluble functional ingredients, which constitute the majority of active ingredients.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used for make-up products such as foundations, eyeshadows, eyeliners, highlighters and blushes, which can be characterised by different finishes, such as matte, demi-matte, pearly, metallic, shimmer and glitter, and also for skin-care products (with or without pigments) containing active ingredients with pore-minimising and opacifying functions, and functions designed to conceal wrinkles, bags and shadows under the eyes.
  • the products containing the solid composition according to the invention can be packaged in watertight packaging and used for application to the body or face (such as the eyes, lips or cheeks).
  • An eyeshadow in stick form having the following composition was prepared.
  • the product was obtained by the following process: i) dissolving the ingredients of Phase A in water at 50-95°C under stirring for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours; ii) dispersing the gelling agents (Phase B) under stirring in Phase A at a temperature ranging between 50 and 95°C, for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours, until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained; iii) dispersing the pearlescent pigments (Phase C) in the resulting product (Phase A+B), maintaining the temperature of the product between 50 and 95°C, for a time ranging from 10 minutes to two hours; iv) pouring into a suitable mould or container; v) cooling the product to room temperature.
  • the resulting product possesses a hardness suitable for a casting in stick form. When applied to the skin, it releases a full, homogeneous pearly colour with a pleasant sensation of coolness.
  • the product adheres to the skin in a very short time, and is very persistent. The absence of waxes and volatiles or film-forming ingredients guarantees a high degree of comfort and better tolerability by the skin.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique solide sous forme de bâton constituée d'une phase solide aqueuse continue ne comprenant pas plus de deux agents gélifiants hydrophiles sélectionnés parmi des polysaccharides naturels ou d'origine naturelle, et un ou plusieurs polyols. La composition cosmétique est utilisée dans des produits destinés aux soins de la peau du visage et/ou du corps et/ou au maquillage.
PCT/IB2023/058920 2022-09-09 2023-09-08 Gel aqueux solide à usage cosmétique WO2024052870A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102022000018402 2022-09-09
IT102022000018402A IT202200018402A1 (it) 2022-09-09 2022-09-09 Gel acquoso solido per uso cosmetico

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2024052870A1 true WO2024052870A1 (fr) 2024-03-14

Family

ID=84053381

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IB2023/058920 WO2024052870A1 (fr) 2022-09-09 2023-09-08 Gel aqueux solide à usage cosmétique

Country Status (2)

Country Link
IT (1) IT202200018402A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2024052870A1 (fr)

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000078868A1 (fr) * 1999-06-18 2000-12-28 L'oreal Gel aqueux solide comprenant un gelifiant hydrophile et un polyethylene glycol particulier, composition comprenant ce gel et utilisations
CA2495129A1 (fr) * 2005-01-24 2006-07-24 Tanya Workman Composition de desodorisant naturel
WO2020141276A1 (fr) * 2018-12-31 2020-07-09 Lvmh Recherche Composition cosmétique solide constituée d'une phase continue aqueuse solide
US20220054400A1 (en) * 2019-03-29 2022-02-24 Chanel Parfums Beaute Peel-off film-forming cosmetic composition
US20220192960A1 (en) * 2019-03-29 2022-06-23 Chanel Parfums Beaute Long-lasting cosmetic composition

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000078868A1 (fr) * 1999-06-18 2000-12-28 L'oreal Gel aqueux solide comprenant un gelifiant hydrophile et un polyethylene glycol particulier, composition comprenant ce gel et utilisations
CA2495129A1 (fr) * 2005-01-24 2006-07-24 Tanya Workman Composition de desodorisant naturel
WO2020141276A1 (fr) * 2018-12-31 2020-07-09 Lvmh Recherche Composition cosmétique solide constituée d'une phase continue aqueuse solide
US20220054400A1 (en) * 2019-03-29 2022-02-24 Chanel Parfums Beaute Peel-off film-forming cosmetic composition
US20220192960A1 (en) * 2019-03-29 2022-06-23 Chanel Parfums Beaute Long-lasting cosmetic composition

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Publication number Publication date
IT202200018402A1 (it) 2024-03-09

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