WO2023280485A1 - Produit de soin capillaire à transformation - Google Patents

Produit de soin capillaire à transformation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023280485A1
WO2023280485A1 PCT/EP2022/064926 EP2022064926W WO2023280485A1 WO 2023280485 A1 WO2023280485 A1 WO 2023280485A1 EP 2022064926 W EP2022064926 W EP 2022064926W WO 2023280485 A1 WO2023280485 A1 WO 2023280485A1
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Prior art keywords
hair treatment
alcohol
treatment composition
composition according
hair
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PCT/EP2022/064926
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jasmin INGWERSEN
Tina Ahnfeldt
Sylvia KERL
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2023280485A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023280485A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to hair treatment compositions for hair care, comprising an active substance combination of specific alcohols, alkanes and cationic surfactants.
  • the invention further relates to a method for caring for hair using the hair treatment agent.
  • Damage is understood to mean both damage caused by friction damage such as combing, brushing, backcombing and structural or chemical changes in the hair fibers, which can be caused by processes such as dyeing, bleaching or permanent deformation. Sun exposure, environmental influences or (heat) styling can also damage the hair fibers.
  • Dry or damaged hair can be treated with standard leave-on or rinse-off care products, which contributes to a significant improvement in the inner and outer hair structure.
  • Hair care products available on the market usually include a combination of different care ingredients such as cationic surfactants and polymers, oils of different polarity, silicones, etc., which have to be laboriously stabilized in a usually aqueous base.
  • different care ingredients such as cationic surfactants and polymers, oils of different polarity, silicones, etc.
  • this requires higher energy consumption and, on the other hand, the stabilization of water-insoluble care ingredients in particular requires the additional use of synthetic auxiliaries, which are increasingly undesirable.
  • the aim of the present invention was to provide such hair care formulations.
  • a hair treatment composition for hair care which--based on its total weight--a) 20-40% by weight of at least one monohydroxy alcohol, b) 10-45% by weight of at least one C8-C20 alkane , c) 5-30% by weight of at least one C8-C24 alcohol and d) 0.1-5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention have the advantage that, due to their thin consistency, they can be removed from the packaging easily and with little residue, and spread quickly and very well to the ends of the hair. In combination with water, they transform into a cream, lotion or gel, which adheres to the hair even after a short exposure time and promotes good separation of the care ingredients.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for use as a rinse-off composition.
  • Hair treated with compositions according to the invention has a healthy, well-groomed appearance and a pleasant feel. In particular, they are easy to detangle and have very good combability in wet and dry hair, a well-groomed and supple hair feel right down to the hair tips, radiant shine and anti-frizz. A weighing down of the hair could not be observed even with regular use of the compositions according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention can be produced, packaged and transported in a resource-saving manner because they contain no or only a small amount of water.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention can be applied to the hair with a conventional conditioning agent immediately after the hair has been cleaned or after it has been cleaned and cared for.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention can also be used as pretreatment agents before cleaning the hair.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be applied to the towel-dried and/or moist keratin fibers.
  • the invention also relates to a hair treatment composition as described above, comprising (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition): a) 20 to 40% by weight of at least one C2-C6 monohydroxy alcohol.
  • C2-C6 monohydroxy alcohols a) support the dissolution or solubilization of water-insoluble components in the hair treatment agents according to the invention, so that preferably transparent compositions can be provided. These are stable and do not require any additional stabilization, as is necessary with conventional, emulsion-based products.
  • Suitable C2-C6 monohydroxy alcohols a) can be selected from ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, 2-methyl-2-butanol, pentanol, hexanol or mixtures of these alcohols. Ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol and mixtures of these alcohols are preferred. Ethanol is particularly preferred.
  • the at least one C2-C6 monohydroxy alcohol a) can preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in amounts of 21 to 37% by weight, more preferably 22 to 35% by weight, particularly preferably 23 to 32% by weight and in particular of 25 to 30% by weight are used (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain ethanol in the aforementioned amounts.
  • the invention also relates to a hair treatment composition as described above, comprising (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition): b) 10 to 45% by weight of at least one C8-C20 alkane.
  • C8-C20 alkanes b) are used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention as hair-conditioning active ingredients and as solvents to support the complete dissolution or solubilization of water-insoluble components.
  • Suitable C8-C20 alkanes are taken to mean both linear alkanes and branched alkanes.
  • linear C8-C20-alkanes can preferably be selected from the group of compounds with the INCI designations decanes, undecanes, dodecanes, tridecanes, tetradecanes, pentadecanes, hexadecanes and mixtures thereof.
  • Undecanes, dodecanes, tridecanes and any mixtures thereof are preferred.
  • the branched C8-C20 alkanes can be present as a mixture of isoparaffins with different numbers of carbon atoms within the number of carbon atoms specified according to the invention, and isomer mixtures of branched hydrocarbons with the same number of carbon atoms can also be present.
  • the isoparaffin mixture according to the invention can have a narrow carbon distribution - such as C10-12 isoparaffin - or a broad carbon distribution - such as C10-15 isoparaffin.
  • Preferred isoparaffins have a maximum vapor pressure of 2 torr at 20°C.
  • Branched C8-C20 alkanes suitable according to the invention can preferably consist of compounds with the INCI designations C8-9 isoparaffin, C8-10 isoparaffin, C10-11 isoparaffin, C10-13 isoparaffin, C10-20 isoparaffin, C11-12 isoparaffin, C11- 13 isoparaffin, C11-15 isoparaffin, C13-14 isoparaffin, C13-16 isoparaffin, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.
  • C10-13 isoparaffin, C11-12 isoparaffin, C11-13 isoparaffin, C11-15 isoparaffin, isododecanes are very particularly preferred. Isododecane is particularly preferred.
  • the at least one C8-C20 alkane b) can preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in amounts of 12 to 42% by weight, more preferably 15 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably 17 to 37% by weight and in particular of 20 to 35% by weight are used (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one branched C8-C20 alkane in the amounts mentioned above. For some applications it can be advantageous to use mixtures of linear and branched C8-C20 alkanes in the amounts mentioned above.
  • the invention further relates to a hair treatment composition as described above, comprising (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition): c) 5 to 30% by weight of at least one C8-C24 alcohol.
  • C8-C24 alcohols c) are used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention as moisturizing, caring active ingredients and as consistency factors for the emulsion when it is transformed with water.
  • C8-C24 monoalcohols c) with a branched or unbranched carbon chain are preferably suitable for use in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.
  • Octyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • Lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and any mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • the at least one C8-C24 alcohol c) can preferably be present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in amounts of 6 to 27% by weight, more preferably 7 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably 8 to 22% by weight and in particular of 10 to 20% by weight are used (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol in the aforementioned amounts.
  • the invention further relates to a hair treatment composition as described above, comprising (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition): d) 5 to 30% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Cationic surfactants d) carry a positive charge in their hydrophilic part. This positive charge causes the surfactant molecules to attach to the negatively charged skin and hair surface. In this way, they neutralize the charge, prevent hair from flying, have a smoothing effect, increase hair shine and improve wet combability.
  • cationic surfactants have a co-preservative effect in cosmetic products because of their bactericidal effect, ie a bacteria-inhibiting effect.
  • all cationic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body are suitable as cationic surfactants in hair treatment compositions according to the invention. These are characterized by at least one water-solubilizing cationic group, such as. B. a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-solubilizing, cationizable group, such as. B. an amine group and also at least one lipophilic alkyl group having about 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or by at least one imidazole group or at least one imidazylalkyl group.
  • water-solubilizing cationic group such as. B. a quaternary ammonium group
  • water-solubilizing, cationizable group such as. B. an amine group and also at least one lipophilic alkyl group having about 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or by at least one imidazole group or at least one imidazylalkyl group.
  • cationic surfactants are divided into groups based on their structural features. Particularly suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention are cationic surfactants d) from at least one of the groups of alkyl quats,
  • esterquats ii quaternary imidazolines, iv. amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines, v. and/or mixtures thereof.
  • cationic surfactants have shown a conditioning effect that is perceived as particularly pleasant.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain quaternary ammonium compounds (alkyl quats), amidoamines, cationized amidoamines and mixtures thereof as cationic surfactants d).
  • Very particularly preferred quaternary ammonium compounds have at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical and are selected from quaternary ammonium halides, in particular chlorides, or from quaternary ammonium alkyl sulfates, such as methosulfates or ethosulfates , for example C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, C8-C24
  • Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and C8-C 24 trialkylmethylammonium chlorides such as
  • cetyltrimethylammonium chloride cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride,
  • Esterquats are cationic surfactants that contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element and also at least one C8-C24 alkyl radical or C8-C24 acyl radical.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®.
  • Palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyl dimonium methosulfate and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate are preferred examples of such esterquats.
  • Alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidating natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with di-(Ci-C3)alkylaminoamines. According to the invention, particularly suitable compounds from this group of substances are, for example, under the INCI Names Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, Lauramidopropyldimethylamine,
  • Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is particularly preferred.
  • Lauramidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride and/or canolamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate known compounds.
  • the at least one cationic surfactant d) can be present in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in amounts of preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.75 to 5% by weight. and in particular from 1 to 5% by weight (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention contain C8-C24-alkyltrimethylammonium, C8-C24-dialkyldimethylammonium and/or C8-C24-trialkylmethylammonium halide, ammonium, methosulfate and/or ethosulfate salts in the aforementioned amounts. They particularly preferably contain at least one alkyl quat known under the INCI name Cetrimonium Chloride or Behentrimonium Chloride.
  • hair treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one aminoamine known under the INCI name palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine or brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and/or one of the cationized forms of these amidoamines in the aforementioned amounts.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain other active ingredients e) which further increase the hair conditioning effect.
  • Preferred active ingredients e) in the context of the present invention are fats or oils which are different from b) and c), including preferably ester oils, vegetable oils,
  • ester oils are understood as meaning esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acids used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, and behenic acid Erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24), isopropyl myristate (Rilanit ® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/-caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl lerucate (Cetiol 0 J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol ® ), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), my
  • Ester oils which are suitable according to the invention can also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.
  • the alkoxylation can be found on the fatty alcohol part as well as on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. It is preferred if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with a fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally represented.
  • R1 here stands for a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms
  • AO stands for ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide
  • X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, particularly preferably between 1 and 50, very particularly preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
  • R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic, saturated, cyclic, unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • fatty acid components used as the R1 radical in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, Myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol components as the R2 radical in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof.
  • ester oil according to the invention is available, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, for example from Croda as the commercial product Crodamol® STS.
  • ester oils are to be understood as meaning:
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecylvestate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), Propylene glycol disostearate, propylene glycol dispelargonate, butanediol disostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides these are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. When using technical products, small amounts of triglycerides may still be present due to the manufacturing process.
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I) in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m+n+q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is preferably an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m+n+ q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and/or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, Elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof. Oleic acid monoglycerides are preferably used.
  • ester oils are selected so that they are combined with one another according to their spreading values.
  • the combination of 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate may be particularly advantageous.
  • Ester oils can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 17.5% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 2.5 to 12 5% by weight (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • An ester oil known by the INCI name PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate is preferably used in the aforementioned amounts in the hair treatment agents according to the invention.
  • vegetable oils include amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elderberry seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil , linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mallow oil, almond oil, mango seed oil, marula oil, melon seed oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, peach kernel oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, safflower oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil
  • Vegetable oils can preferably be present in the agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 6% by weight and in particular 0.1 up to 5% by weight (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • Vegetable butters suitable according to the invention are preferably butters with a melting point in the range from 20.degree. C. to 35.degree. This includes, for example, shea butter (INCI designation: Butyrospermum Parkii (shea) butter), mango butter (INCI designation: Mangifera lndica (mango) seed butter), Murumuru butter (INCI designation: Astrocaryum Murumuru seed butter ), cocoa butter (INCI designation: Theobroma-Cacao-(cocoa-
  • seed butter cupuacu butter (INCI designation: Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter), cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, elaeis guineensis (palm) kernel oil, Japan wax, synthetic Japan wax, castor oil Communis (castor) seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) butter and mixtures thereof.
  • Shea butter (INCI name: butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter) is particularly preferred.
  • Vegetable butters can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 up to 1.5% by weight (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • waxes are preferably understood as meaning waxes which can be obtained from natural sources and which preferably have a melting range above 45.degree.
  • waxes for the purposes of the present invention are fruit waxes, shell waxes, grass waxes, flower waxes and/or leaf waxes, beeswax or other insect waxes, spermaceti, wool wax (lanolin) and/or rump fat.
  • Berry waxes, apple wax, lemon (peel) wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, jasmine wax, rose wax, carnauba wax, beeswax and/or wool wax (lanolin) are particularly preferred.
  • Waxes can be added to the hair treatment agents according to the invention in an amount of preferably from 0.005 to 1.00% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 0.60% by weight and in particular in amounts of 0.10 to 0.50% by weight (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition).
  • silicone oils are understood to mean compounds from the group of dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, particularly preferably from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes, cyclopentasiloxanes, cyclohexasiloxanes, and methylphenylpolysiloxanes, particularly preferably from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • the proportion by weight of the silicone oils in the total weight of the agents is preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1 to 25% by weight. %, particularly preferably from 2 to 20% by weight and in particular from 3 to 15% by weight.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention is preferably in the form of a low-viscosity solution and/or dispersion and is preferably transparent.
  • Low viscosity preferably means a viscosity in the range from 1 to 1500 mPas, more preferably 5 to 1000 mPas. The viscosity was measured using a Haake model VT 550 rotational viscometer at a temperature of 20° C. and 8 rpm.
  • transparency means that the hair treatment agents do not scatter light in the range that is usually visible to humans.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention can preferably be applied directly to the hair—preferably with the aid of an application bottle.
  • the composition of the present invention can be applied in the form of a spray-on hair treatment and sprayed onto the hair.
  • the spray can be a pump spray or atomization can be achieved with the aid of propellants.
  • propellants are propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane, isopentene, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1,1,1,3-Tetrafluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, perfluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, more precisely either individually or in combination.
  • Hydrophilic propellant gases such as carbon dioxide
  • hydrophilic propellant gases can also be used advantageously provided the proportion of hydrophilic gases is selected to be low and a lipophilic propellant gas (e.g. propane/butane) is present in excess.
  • a lipophilic propellant gas e.g. propane/butane
  • Propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants are particularly preferred. It has been shown that the use of n-butane as the sole propellant can be particularly preferred.
  • Receptacles made of metal (aluminium, tinplate, tin), protected or non-shattering plastic, or glass coated on the outside with plastic may be used as compressed gas containers; Compressive strength and breaking strength, corrosion resistance, ease of filling, as well as aesthetic aspects, handiness, printability, etc. play a role in their selection.
  • a further possibility consists in mixing the hair treatment composition according to the invention with water in a suitable container, shaking it and applying it to the hair as an emulsion in a conventional manner.
  • the combination of the essential and optional ingredients described makes it possible to provide hair treatment agents that can be applied easily and quickly and can be applied to the entire length of the hair right down to the tips of the hair.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention into a cream, a lotion or a gel which can be massaged further into the hair and the care effect can be felt.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention and their specific application promote the deposition of care substances on the hair fibers, so that a lasting conditioning effect can be achieved.
  • a lotion or a gel only takes place on contact with water, it is advantageous if the hair treatment agents according to the invention are essentially free of added water.
  • Essentially free means that the hair treatment compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably have a maximum content of 15% by weight, more preferably 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably 10% by weight and very particularly preferably 7.5% by weight of free water. Particularly preferably, no free water is added to the hair treatment agents according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention can nevertheless contain a small proportion of water within the limits mentioned above; for example in the event that water is a component of mixtures of active substances which can be added to the hair treatment agents according to the invention.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can contain other ingredients.
  • the group of these other ingredients includes in particular the cosmetically active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
  • a first group of optional ingredients are the so-called fats or oils e), which have already been described earlier in this application.
  • the hair treatment agent can contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and/or one of the derivatives thereof as a care substance.
  • Protein hydrolyzates are mixtures of products obtained by acid-catalyzed, base-catalyzed or enzymatically catalyzed protein degradation.
  • the term “protein hydrolysates” also means total hydrolysates and also individual amino acids and derivatives thereof as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • the molecular mass of the protein hydrolysates that can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular mass for glycine, and 200,000 daltons, and the molecular mass is preferably from 75 to 50,000 daltons and most preferably from 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention can also contain at least one vitamin, one provitamin, one vitamin precursor substance and/or one of the derivatives thereof as care substance.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursor substances which are normally assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred here.
  • the hair treatment agents according to the invention can also contain at least one plant extract as a care substance, but also monosaccharides or oligosaccharides and/or lipids.
  • the cosmetic hair treatment composition disclosed herein may also contain a perfume in a preferred amount (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition) of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight.
  • a perfume in a preferred amount (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition) of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by weight.
  • the invention may be characterized by the following numbered statements:
  • Hair treatment composition for the care of hair containing - based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition - a) 20 - 40% by weight of at least one C2-C6 monohydroxy alcohol, b) 10 - 45% by weight of at least one C8-C20 alkane, c) 5-30% by weight of at least one C8-C24 alcohol and d) 0.1-5% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Hair treatment composition according to statement 1 containing as C2-C6 monohydroxy alcohol a) ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or mixtures thereof.
  • Hair treatment composition containing as C8-C20 alkane at least one compound from the group of compounds with the INCI designations C8-9 isoparaffin, C8-10 isoparaffin, C10-11 isoparaffin, C10-13 isoparaffin, C10- 20 isoparaffin, C11-12 isoparaffin, C11-13 isoparaffin, C11-15 isoparaffin, C13-14 isoparaffin, C13-16 isoparaffin, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotetradecane, isohexadecane, C8-9 alkane, C8-10 alkane, C10- 11 alkane, C10-13 alkane, C10-20 alkane, C11-12 alkane, C11-13 alkane, C11-15 alkane, C13-14 alkane, C13-16 alkane, Decane, Undecane, Dodecane, Tridecane, Tetradecane, Penta
  • Hair treatment composition according to a preceding statement containing as C8-C24 alcohol octyl alcohol, decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
  • the C8-C24 alcohol comprises or consists of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and/or cetearyl alcohol.
  • a hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim wherein the total amount of the or each C8-C24 alcohol ranges from 6 to 27% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • a hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim wherein the total amount of the or each C8-C24 alcohol ranges from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • Hair treatment composition according to any preceding statement containing as cationic surfactant i. alkyl quats, ii. ester quats, iii. quaternary imidazoline, iv. amidoamines and/or cationized amidoamines, v. and/or mixtures thereof.
  • a hair treatment composition according to any preceding claim wherein the cationic surfactant comprises or consists of alkyl quats.
  • Hair treatment composition according to any one of statements 1 to 23, wherein the cationic surfactant comprises or consists of behentrimethylammonium chloride.
  • hair treatment composition according to one of statements 1 to 22, wherein the cationic surfactant comprises or consists of amidoamines.
  • the hair treatment composition of claim 26 wherein the amidoamine comprises or consists of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • a hair treatment composition as claimed in any preceding claim wherein the total amount of the or each cationic surfactant ranges from 0.25 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • Hair treatment composition according to any preceding statement containing at least one oil selected from ester oils, silicone oils, vegetable oils or mixtures thereof.
  • Hair treatment composition containing at least one mixture of at least one ester oil and at least one silicone oil.
  • a hair treatment composition as claimed in any preceding claim wherein the total amount of the or each ester oil ranges from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition.
  • Hair treatment composition according to a preceding statement containing a maximum of 15% by weight of water (based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition). Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, which is transparent. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, which has a viscosity in the range from 1 to 1500 mPas. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements in the form of a solution or dispersion. Hair treatment composition according to one of the preceding statements, which is transformed into a cream, a lotion or a gel in combination with water. Hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding statements in the form of a rinse-off hair conditioning composition. A cosmetic product comprising a hair treatment composition according to any preceding statement.
  • the cosmetic product of statement 52 wherein the product comprises an application bottle.
  • the cosmetic product of statement 52 wherein the product comprises a pipette.
  • the cosmetic product of statement 52 wherein the product comprises a droplet liner.
  • the cosmetic product of statement 52 wherein the product comprises a container in which the hair treatment composition can be mixed with water prior to use.
  • the cosmetic product of statement 52 wherein the product comprises a sealable container in which the hair treatment composition can be mixed with water and shaken prior to use.
  • Cosmetic method for the care of hair in which a hair treatment agent according to one of the statements 1 to 51 is applied to the hair and massaged in, with water contact forming a cream, a lotion or a gel which (s) after an exposure time of up to Rinse with water for 10 minutes.
  • the exemplary hair treatment agents give hair treated therewith a healthy, well-groomed appearance and a pleasant feel.
  • hair can be easily untangled after the treatment and has very good combability when wet and dry, a well-groomed and supple hair feel right down to the hair tips, as well as radiant shine and anti-frizz. A weighing down of the hair could not be observed even with regular use of the compositions according to the invention.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit de soin capillaire pour le soin des cheveux qui contient des quantités spécifiques d'alcools monohydroxy en C2-C6, d'alcanes en C8-C20, d'alcools en C8-C24 et de tensioactifs cationiques et qui se transforme en crème, en lotion ou en gel lorsqu'il est en contact avec de l'eau.
PCT/EP2022/064926 2021-07-06 2022-06-01 Produit de soin capillaire à transformation WO2023280485A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102021207051.5 2021-07-06
DE102021207051.5A DE102021207051A1 (de) 2021-07-06 2021-07-06 Transformierendes Haarpflegemittel

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023179924A1 (fr) * 2022-03-23 2023-09-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Conditionneur capillaire pour lisser les cheveux

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102018222141A1 (de) * 2018-12-18 2020-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Zweikomponenten-Haarpflegemittel zur Herstellung einer Emulsion zur Pflege von Humanhaaren
DE102019220139A1 (de) * 2019-12-19 2021-06-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Wasserfreies mittel zur behandlung von keratinfasern

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102018222141A1 (de) * 2018-12-18 2020-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Zweikomponenten-Haarpflegemittel zur Herstellung einer Emulsion zur Pflege von Humanhaaren
DE102019220139A1 (de) * 2019-12-19 2021-06-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Wasserfreies mittel zur behandlung von keratinfasern

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023179924A1 (fr) * 2022-03-23 2023-09-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Conditionneur capillaire pour lisser les cheveux

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