WO2023198320A1 - Préparation pour teinture de matières kératiniques, contenant des aminosilicones, des huiles et des pigments dans des gammes de poids déterminées - Google Patents

Préparation pour teinture de matières kératiniques, contenant des aminosilicones, des huiles et des pigments dans des gammes de poids déterminées Download PDF

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WO2023198320A1
WO2023198320A1 PCT/EP2023/050470 EP2023050470W WO2023198320A1 WO 2023198320 A1 WO2023198320 A1 WO 2023198320A1 EP 2023050470 W EP2023050470 W EP 2023050470W WO 2023198320 A1 WO2023198320 A1 WO 2023198320A1
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agent
weight
pigments
amino
group
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PCT/EP2023/050470
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Constanze KRUCK
Gabriele Weser
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2023198320A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023198320A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the subject of the present application is an agent for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, which contains amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1), oils (a2) and pigments (a3), each in certain quantitative ranges.
  • a second subject of this application is the use of the previously described agent as a leave-on dye for coloring human hair.
  • a third subject of the present application is a method for coloring human hair, comprising the application of the agent described above, its action and drying the hair without first washing out the agent.
  • Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent, intensive dyeing with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which form the actual dyes among themselves under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
  • direct dyes When using direct dyes, already formed dyes diffuse from the dye into the hair fiber. In comparison to oxidative hair coloring, the colorings obtained with direct dyes have a lower durability and quicker washout. Dyes with direct dyes usually remain on the hair for a period of between 5 and 20 washes.
  • color pigments are generally understood to mean insoluble, coloring substances. These are present undissolved in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are only deposited on the outside of the hair fibers and/or the surface of the skin. Therefore, they can usually be cleaned again with a few washes using cleaning agents that contain surfactants remove without leaving any residue.
  • cleaning agents that contain surfactants remove without leaving any residue.
  • Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.
  • the particular advantage of a hair mascara product is that the coloring compounds such as pigments are only deposited in the form of a film on the surface of the keratin fiber.
  • the nature of the keratin fiber itself is not changed when the product is used, so that the use of a hair mascara product is associated with particularly little damage to the hair. If the user wants their original hair color back, the coloring can be removed quickly, completely and without leaving any residue from the keratin fiber, without damaging the fibers or changing the original hair color.
  • the development of pigment-based keratin dyes is therefore very trendy.
  • the washing fastness should be outstanding, but the use of the oxidation dye precursors that are otherwise commonly used for this purpose should be avoided.
  • keratin fibers like human hair, can be dyed in particularly intense colors with good wash fastness if they be colored with an agent which contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1), one or more oils (a2) that are liquid at 20 ° C and one or more pigments (a3), each in certain quantitative ranges.
  • an agent which contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1), one or more oils (a2) that are liquid at 20 ° C and one or more pigments (a3), each in certain quantitative ranges.
  • a first object of the present invention is an agent (A) for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, containing - based on the total weight of the agent (A) -
  • Keratin material means hair, skin, nails (such as fingernails and/or toenails). Wool, fur and feathers also fall under the definition of keratin material.
  • Keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Keratin material is particularly preferably understood to mean human hair.
  • coloring agent is used in the context of this invention for a coloring of the keratin material, in particular the hair, caused by the use of pigments.
  • This coloring can be produced by the agent (A), whereby the pigments are deposited as coloring compounds together with the amino silicone in a particularly homogeneous, uniform and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material.
  • the agent (A) according to the invention is a ready-to-use agent which can be applied in the form described directly to the keratin material or the hair.
  • the agent (A) can be present in a packaging unit or a container and can be made available to the user in this way.
  • the container can be, for example, a sachet, a bottle, a can, a jar or another container suitable for cosmetic formulations.
  • amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) on average (A) As the first ingredient (a1) essential to the invention, the agent (A) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer.
  • the amino-functionalized silicone polymer can alternatively be referred to as amino silicone or amodimethicone.
  • the total amount of the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) is 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent.
  • Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 500 g/mol, preferably at least 1000 g/mol, more preferably at least 2500 g/mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g/mol, which comprise repeating organic units.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is not more than 10 7 g/mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g/mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g/mol.
  • the silicone polymers include many Si-O repeat units, where the Si atoms can carry organic radicals such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups. Alternatively, a silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.
  • the silicone polymers are based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeating units .
  • An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is understood to mean a functionalized silicone that carries at least one structural unit with an amino group.
  • the amino-functionalized silicone polymer preferably carries several structural units, each with at least one amino group.
  • An amino group is understood to mean a primary amino group, a secondary amino group and a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and are then present in their cationic form.
  • amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) if they carry at least one primary, at least one secondary and/or at least one tertiary amino group.
  • intensive colorings with the best fastness to washing were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) was used in the agent (A), which contains at least one secondary amino group.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) with at least one secondary amino group.
  • the secondary amino group(s) can be located at different positions of the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Particularly good effects were found when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) was used that has at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-Amino). -Amino)
  • ALK1 and ALK2 independently stand for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-Amino),
  • ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C1-C2o-alkylene group.
  • the positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate the bond to other structural units of the silicone polymer.
  • the silicon atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another silicon atom or also to a Ci-Ce alkyl group.
  • a divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group, which means that each group ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.
  • ALK1 In the case of ALK1, one bond occurs from the silicon atom to the ALK1 moiety, and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
  • ALK2 In the case of ALK2, one bond occurs from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 moiety, and the second bond is between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
  • Examples of a linear divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group include the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) and the butylene group (-CH2- CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred.
  • divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C2o alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-).
  • the structural units of the formula (Si-Amino) represent repeat units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), so that the silicone polymer comprises several structural units of the formula (Si-Amino).
  • Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
  • Dyes with the very best wash fastness properties could be obtained if the agent (A) according to the invention contained at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1).
  • Structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-Il) include
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which contains structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II) includes
  • a corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Sill) is, for example, the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is sold commercially by the Dow Chemical Company and which has the name “Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-Aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane” and the CAS number 106842-44-8.
  • Another particularly preferred commercial product is Dowsil AP-8568 Amino Fluid, which is also sold commercially by the Dow Chemical Company.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-I 11), where m and n mean numbers chosen so that the sum (n + m) is in the range from 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range from 1 to
  • Further agents preferred according to the invention are characterized by the presence of at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-IV), where p and q mean numbers chosen so that the sum (p + q) is in the range from 1 to 1000, p is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range from 1 to 1000 ,
  • R1 and R2 which are different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, where at least one of R1 to R2 represents a hydroxy group.
  • the silicones of the formulas (Si-Ill) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping on the Si atom that carries the nitrogen-containing group:
  • R2 means a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the remainder in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group.
  • Agents according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-V) have also proven to be well suited with regard to the desired effects in the
  • A represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 ,-O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH ,-O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
  • D represents a group -H, -Si(CH 3 ) 3 ,-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, -Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 , b, n and c represent integers between 0 and 1000, with the requirements
  • the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are randomly distributed, i.e. they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
  • the agent (A) can also contain one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers, which are represented by the formula (Si-Vl)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical with from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, where R 1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon , hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one amino-functional group;
  • "a” takes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3
  • a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • x is a number in the range of 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
  • Non-limiting examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals, such as vinyl, halogenvinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropy
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )C(O)OCH 2 -, -(CH 2 ) 3 CC(O)OCH 2 CH 2 -, - C6 H4 C6 H4 -, -C6 H4 CH2 C6 H4 -; and -(CH 2 ) 3 C(O)SCH 2 CH 2 - a.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , where z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure including diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 residue.
  • Another possible formula for Z is - N(CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” takes values ranging from about 0 to about 2
  • "b” takes values ranging from about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c " is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3.
  • the molar ratio of the R a Qb SiO( 4-a -b)/ 2 units to the R c SiO ( 4 -c)/ 2 units is in the range of about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65 and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized by its content of at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VII)
  • - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-
  • - a represents a number between 0 and 3, especially 0;
  • - b represents a number between 0 and 1, especially 1, - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably has values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably has values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R' is a monovalent radical selected from o -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N(R")2 o -QN(R") 2 o -QN + (R")3A- o -QN + H(R") 2 A- o -QN + H 2 (R")A- o -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R"H 2 A- , where each Q represents a chemical Bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C(CH 3 ) 2 - , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C(CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 2 - stands,
  • R" for identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 - CH(CH 3 )Ph, the Ci- 2 o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , - CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 , -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized by its content of at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-Vlla),
  • CH2CH(CH3)CH 2 NH(CH2)2NH2 where m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably has values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably takes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • these silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized by its content of at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-Vllb) R-[Si(CH3)2-O]ni[Si(R)-O]m-[Si(CH 3 )2]n2-R (Si-Vllb),
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably taking values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably taking values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • these amino-functionalized silicone polymers are referred to as amodimethicones.
  • agents (A) according to the invention are preferred which contain an amino-functional silicone polymer whose amine number is above 0.25 meq/g, preferably above 0.3 meq/g and in particular above 0.4 meq/g.
  • the amine number stands for the milli-equivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in the unit mg KOH/g.
  • This amino-functionalized silicone polymer includes
  • a corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer is available under the name
  • Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane copolymer is known and in the form of the raw material
  • the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone that can be used is a silicone which has structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X). in which
  • R1 represents -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 ;
  • R2 represents -CH3, -OH, or -OCH3.
  • agents (a) according to the invention contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted
  • R1 represents -CH3, -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-CH(CH 3 )2;
  • R2 represents -CH3, -OH, or -OCH3.
  • B represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH3)3,-O-Si(CH 3 )2OH,-O-Si(CH 3 )2OCH3,
  • Structural formula (Si-Xl) is intended to make it clear that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be bound directly to an end group B or D. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-Vl) a > 0 or b > 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-Vl) a > 0 and c > 0, i.e. the terminal group B or D is preferably attached to a dimethylsiloxy group bound.
  • the siloxane units a, b, c, m and n are also preferably randomly distributed.
  • Silicones used particularly preferably in the context of the present invention are selected from silicones in which
  • the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) (a1) are contained in certain quantity ranges in the agent (A) according to the invention.
  • the agent (A) is characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight.
  • the agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contained one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.15 to 7.5 wt. -%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight and most particularly preferably contained from 0.4 to 2.0% by weight.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.15 to 7. 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 3.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight and most preferably contains from 0.4 to 2.0% by weight.
  • the agent (A) contains at least one cosmetic oil that is liquid at 20 ° C.
  • the oil (a2) which is liquid at 20 °C, serves to dilute the amino silicone (a1), increases the volume of the agent (A) and also improves the flow properties of the agent (A).
  • the oil or oils in amounts of 20.0% by weight or more, the color intensity of the coloring obtained with the agent (A) can also be increased.
  • the oil or oils (2) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - are contained in the agent (A) in a total amount of 20.0 to 99.8% by weight.
  • an oil is understood to mean an organic liquid that is liquid or flowable at 20 ° C and is not miscible with water.
  • An oil is not miscible with water if it has a solubility in water at 20 °C (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the oil can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the oil is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is heated to 25 °C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. Stir for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If a second phase is still visible in the oil-water mixture after this period, i.e. a separate oil phase (e.g. in the form of oil droplets) in addition to the water phase, then the solubility of the oil is less than 1% by weight.
  • a separate oil phase e.g. in the form of oil droplets
  • the oil (a2) is intended to improve the miscibility and homogenization of the amino silicone (a1), therefore it is not an amino silicone itself. For this reason, the oil (a2) is different from the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1).
  • Particularly suitable oils (a2) can be selected from the group of non-amino-functionalized oligoalkylsiloxanes, non-amino-functionalized silicone polymers, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic ⁇ 3-Ci2 hydrocarbons, di-Ci2- ⁇ 23 alkyl ethers, vegetable oils and ester oils.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one cosmetic oil (a2) that is liquid at 20 ° C and is selected from the group of non-amino-functionalized oligoalkylsiloxanes and non-amino-functionalized silicone polymers , paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic C3-C12 hydrocarbons, di-Ci2- ⁇ 23 alkyl ethers, vegetable oils and ester oils.
  • at least one cosmetic oil (a2) that is liquid at 20 ° C and is selected from the group of non-amino-functionalized oligoalkylsiloxanes and non-amino-functionalized silicone polymers , paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic C3-C12 hydrocarbons, di-Ci2- ⁇ 23 alkyl ethers, vegetable oils and ester oils.
  • Cosmetic oils (a2) which are particularly suitable are selected from the group of non-amino-functionalized oligoalkylsiloxanes and non-amino-functionalized silicone polymers.
  • oligoalkylsiloxanes are understood to mean oligomeric siloxanes which can be linear or cyclic.
  • the oligoalkylsiloxanes are not amino-functionalized, which means that they do not have an amino group in their structure.
  • Preferred linear oligoalkylsiloxanes are compounds of the general formula (OAS-I) where z represents an integer from 0 to 10. Preferably z represents the numbers 0, 1, 2 or 3.
  • Hexamethyldisiloxane has the CAS number 107-46-0 and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
  • Octamethyltrisiloxane has the CAS number 107-51-7 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • Decamethyltetrasiloxane has the CAS number 141-62-8 and is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • Preferred cyclic oligoalkylsiloxanes are compounds of the general formula (OAS-II) where y represents an integer from 1 to 5. Preferably z represents the numbers 1, 2 or 3.
  • Very particularly preferred cyclic oligoalkylsiloxanes are, for example, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains at least one cosmetic oil (a2) that is liquid at 20 ° C and is selected from the group of oligoalkylsiloxanes of the formula (OAS-I ) and/or (OAS-II), where z represents an integer from 0 to 10, preferably an integer from 0 to 3, particularly preferably the number 0,
  • y represents an integer from 1 to 5, preferably an integer from 1 to 3.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains at least one cosmetic oil (a2) which is liquid at 20 ° C and is selected from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and/or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • a2 which is liquid at 20 ° C and is selected from the group consisting of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and/or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the non-amino-functionalized silicone polymers which are also particularly suitable for solving the problem according to the invention, can alternatively also be referred to as silicone oils.
  • the silicone oils are not amino-functionalized, which means that they do not have an amino group in their structure.
  • Silicone oils are polymeric compounds whose molecular weight is preferably at least 500 g/mol, preferably at least 1000 g/mol, more preferably at least 2500 g/mol, and particularly preferably at least 5000 g/mol.
  • Silicone oils include Si-O repeat units, where the Si atoms can carry organic radicals such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups.
  • the silicone oils are based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one cosmetic oil (a2) which is liquid at 20 ° C and is selected from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • silicone oils in particular with a viscosity of 0.5 to 30,000 mm 2 /s, more preferably from 0.5 to 20,000 mm 2 /s, even further preferably from 0.5 to 10,000 mm 2 /s, and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 500 mm 2 /s, measured according to ASTM standard D-445.
  • ASTM Standard D-445 is the standard method for measuring the kinematic viscosity of transparent and opaque liquids.
  • the viscosity was measured in particular according to ASTM standard D-446, version 06 (D445-06), published June 2006. This measuring method measures the time required for the defined volume of a liquid to pass through the capillary under defined conditions calibrated viscometer to flow. Regarding the details of the process, reference is made to ASMT-D445, in particular ASTM D445-06. Measuring temperature is 25 °C. Appropriate equipment (such as viscometers and thermometers and the corresponding calibrations) are specified in the method.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains at least one cosmetic oil (a2) which is liquid at 20 ° C and which is selected from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes and which is preferred a viscosity of 0.5 to 30,000 mm 2 /s, more preferably of 0.5 to 20,000 mm 2 /s, even more preferably of 0.5 to 10,000 mm 2 /s, and particularly preferably of 0.5 to 500 mm 2 /s, measured according to ASTM standard D-445.
  • at least one cosmetic oil (a2) which is liquid at 20 ° C and which is selected from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes and which is preferred a viscosity of 0.5 to 30,000 mm 2 /s, more preferably of 0.5 to 20,000 mm 2 /s, even more preferably of 0.5 to 10,000 mm 2 /s, and particularly preferably of 0.5 to 500 mm 2 /s, measured according to ASTM standard D-445.
  • the agent (A) contains at least one silicone oil (a2) from the group of polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones).
  • silicone oils from the group of linear polydimethylsiloxanes are compounds of the general structure (PDMS)
  • z' is chosen so that the dimethicones are liquid and preferably have the aforementioned particularly suitable viscosity ranges.
  • z' can represent an integer from 50 to 100,000, more preferably from 100 to 50,000, particularly preferably from 500 to 50,000.
  • dimethicones can be purchased commercially from various manufacturers. Dimethicone, for example, which is commercially available from Dow Chemicals under the trade name Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 50 CS and whose viscosity is 50 mm 2 /s (at 25 ° C), is particularly suitable. This dimethicone is the most preferred.
  • dimethicone is the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 100 CS, also available from Dow Corning, whose viscosity is 100 mm 2 /s (measured at 25 ° C).
  • dimethicone is Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 350 CS, also available from Dow Corning, whose viscosity is 350 mm 2 /s (at 25 ° C).
  • dimethicone is Dow Corning 200 fluid 500 cSt, available from Dow Corning, whose viscosity is 500 mm 2 /s (at 25 ° C).
  • oils (a2) are liquid paraffin oils, such as Paraffinum Liquidum and Paraffinum Perliquidum, isoparaffin oils such as isodecane, synthetic hydrocarbons such as undecane and tridecane, and dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n- Octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert-butyl ether, di
  • suitable cosmetic oils (a2) can be selected from the group of vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • other triglyceride oils such as the liquid parts of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
  • ester oils are the esters of Ce -C30 fatty acids with C2 - C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols with 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acids used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isotridecyl isononanoate isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® 1 PM), isononanoic acid C16-18-alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868 ), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinatZ-caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl rucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), Di-n-butyl
  • suitable cosmetic oils (a2) can be selected from the group of dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylvestate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol. dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate,
  • dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylvestate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol. dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-
  • the oil or oils (a2) are contained in the agent (A) in certain quantities. These are - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - a total amount of 20.0 to 99.8% by weight. Good color effects can be achieved even with an amount of 20.0% by weight. However, these effects are further intensified if the amounts of oil used (a2) are chosen to be even higher.
  • the oil or oils (a2) serve to dilute the amino silicone or silicones (a1) and also represent a very suitable solution or dispersion medium for them.
  • the oil or oils can also act as a cosmetic carrier, which means that the content of very polar carrier media such as water in particular in average (A) can be greatly reduced.
  • very polar carrier media such as water in particular in average (A) can be greatly reduced.
  • agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contained one or more cosmetic oils (a2) liquid at 20 ° C in a total amount of 30.0 to 99.8 wt .-%, preferably from 40.0 to 99.6% by weight, more preferably from 50.0 to 99.4% by weight, even more preferably from 60.0 to 99.2% by weight and entirely particularly preferably contained from 80.0 to 99.0% by weight.
  • one or more cosmetic oils (a2) liquid at 20 ° C in a total amount of 30.0 to 99.8 wt .-%, preferably from 40.0 to 99.6% by weight, more preferably from 50.0 to 99.4% by weight, even more preferably from 60.0 to 99.2% by weight and entirely particularly preferably contained from 80.0 to 99.0% by weight.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contains one or more cosmetic oils (a2) that are liquid at 20 ° C Total amount from 30.0 to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 40.0 to 99.6% by weight, more preferably from 50.0 to 99.4% by weight, even more preferably from 60.0 up to 99.2% by weight and most preferably from 80.0 to 99.0% by weight.
  • one or more cosmetic oils (a2) that are liquid at 20 ° C Total amount from 30.0 to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 40.0 to 99.6% by weight, more preferably from 50.0 to 99.4% by weight, even more preferably from 60.0 up to 99.2% by weight and most preferably from 80.0 to 99.0% by weight.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - is selected from one or more cosmetic oils (a2) that are liquid at 20 ° C the group of non-amino-functionalized oligoalkylsiloxanes, non-amino-functionalized silicone polymers, paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, synthetic ⁇ 3-Ci2 hydrocarbons, di-Ci2- ⁇ 23 alkyl ethers, vegetable oils and ester oils in a total amount of 30.0 to 99, 8% by weight, preferably from 40.0 to 99.6% by weight, more preferably from 50.0 to 99.4% by weight, even more preferably from 60.0 to 99.2% by weight and most preferably contains from 80.0 to 99.0% by weight.
  • cosmetic oils a2 that are liquid at 20 ° C the group of non-amino-functionalized oligoalkylsiloxanes, non-amino-functionalized silicone polymers, paraffin oils,
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contains 30.0 to 99.8% by weight, preferably 40 .0 to 99.6% by weight, more preferably from 50.0 to 99.4% by weight, even more preferably from 60.0 to 99.2% by weight and most preferably from 80.0 to Contains 99.0% by weight of hexamethyldisiloxane.
  • the agent (A) according to the invention contains one or more pigments (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 10.0% by weight. The percentage by weight is based on the total weight of the agent (A).
  • pigments are understood to mean coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25 ° C of less than 0.5 g/L, preferably less than 0.1 g/L, even more preferably less than 0. 05 g/L.
  • the water solubility can be achieved, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed out in a beaker. A stir fry is added. Then it becomes one liter distilled water added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L.
  • the mixture is filtered. If a portion of undissolved pigment remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L.
  • Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and/or organic origin.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a3) from the group of inorganic and/or organic pigments.
  • Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made, for example, from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, fired Terra di Siena or graphite. Black pigments such as black pigments can also be used as inorganic color pigments.
  • B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such as. B. ultramarine or iron oxide red as well as fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.
  • Colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and/or molybdates are particularly suitable.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289 ), Iron Blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and/or Carmine (Cochineal).
  • Color pigments that are also particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and/or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides can also be used as a pearlescent pigment.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are with a or several of the aforementioned metal oxides coated. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains at least one pigment from the group of inorganic pigments, which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides , complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • the agent (A) contains at least one pigment from the group of inorganic pigments, which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides , complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • color pigments are commercially available, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® available from Sunstar.
  • Colorona® examples of particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are:
  • color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are, for example:
  • color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:
  • the organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or colored varnishes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene -, diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine and/or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.
  • organic pigments examples include carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, Cl 15985, Cl 19140, Cl 20040, Cl 21100, Cl 21108, Cl 47000, Cl 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 1 1725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains at least one organic pigment (a3), the organic pigment being preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 1 1710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100 , CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 1 1725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420
  • the organic pigment can also be a colored varnish.
  • colored lacquer is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit consisting of particles and dye being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions.
  • the particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or even aluminum.
  • Alizarin color varnish for example, can be used as a colored varnish.
  • Pigments with a specific shape may also have been used to color the keratin fibers.
  • a pigment based on a lamellar and/or a lenticular substrate plate can be used.
  • coloring based on a substrate plate which comprises a vacuum metallized pigment is also possible.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains at least one pigment (a3) which is selected from the group of pigments based on a lamellar substrate plate and pigments based on a lenticular Substrate plate and the vacuum metallized pigments.
  • the substrate plates of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm.
  • the average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm.
  • Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm.
  • Each substrate plate preferably has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.
  • the pigment Due to the small thickness of the substrate plates, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.
  • the substrate plates are preferably constructed monolithically.
  • monolithic means consisting of a single, closed unit without breaks, layers or inclusions, although structural changes can occur within the substrate plates.
  • the substrate platelets are preferably constructed homogeneously, i.e. no concentration gradient occurs within the platelets.
  • the substrate plates do not have a layered structure and do not have any particles or particles distributed therein.
  • the size of the substrate plate can be tailored to the respective application, in particular the desired effect on the keratinous material.
  • the substrate platelets have an average largest diameter of approximately 2 to 200 pm, in particular approximately 5 to 100 pm.
  • the form factor (aspect ratio), expressed by the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750.
  • the average size of the uncoated substrate plates is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate plates. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Heios device with Quixel wet dispersion. To prepare the sample, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.
  • the substrate plates can be constructed from any material that can be formed into platelet form.
  • the substrate plates can be of natural origin or synthetically produced.
  • Materials from which the substrate plates can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi)precious stones, as well as plastics.
  • the substrate plates are preferably made of metal alloys.
  • metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered as a metal.
  • metals include iron and steel, as well as all air- and water-resistant (semi-)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, as well as their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass.
  • Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold.
  • Preferred substrate plates are aluminum plates and brass plates, with substrate plates made of aluminum being particularly preferred.
  • Lamellar substrate plates are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as “cornflakes” due to their appearance.
  • pigments based on lamellar substrate plates Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate plates produce a high proportion of scattered light. In addition, the pigments based on lamellar substrate plates do not completely cover the existing color of a keratin material and, for example, effects analogous to natural graying can be achieved.
  • Vacuum metallized pigments can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys or metal oxides from appropriately coated films. They are characterized by a particularly small thickness of the substrate plates in the range of 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate plates which comprise a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to as VMP substrate plates in the context of this application. VMP substrate plates made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.
  • the substrate plates made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.
  • Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and/or VPM substrate plates especially those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and create a light-dark flop. These have proven to be particularly preferred for use in the dye.
  • Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate plate include, for example, the pigments from the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.
  • Pigments based on a lenticular substrate plate are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Spotify from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
  • Pigments based on a substrate platelet which comprises a vacuum metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
  • the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agent according to the invention is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of 1.0 to 50 pm, preferably from 5.0 to 45 pm, preferably from 10 to 40 pm, in particular from 14 to 30 pm.
  • the average particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
  • the pigments (a3) are also contained in certain quantity ranges in the agent (A) according to the invention.
  • the agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contains one or more pigments in a total amount of 0.15 to 9.5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 7 .0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.3 to 3.0% by weight.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contains one or more pigments in a total amount of 0.15 to 9.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.17 to 7.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.25 to 3.0% by weight.
  • the agent (A) according to the invention represents a ready-to-use agent that is manufactured in a new form and, due to this new form of formulation, delivers particularly long-lasting color results.
  • the pigments (a3) responsible for the coloring are incorporated into a film of amino silicones (a1), with this coloring taking place from an oil (a2), which acts as a diluent, solvent or dispersant as well as a cosmetic carrier .
  • the colorings obtained with the combination of (a1), (a2) and (a3) were particularly long-lasting because the components (a1), (a2) and (a3) represented the main components of the agent (A) and in this Function were also included in the largest weight shares in the average.
  • the colorings were particularly resistant when the agent (A) contained the components (a1), (a2) and (a3) together in a weight proportion of at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight of at least 70% by weight, even more preferably of at least 90% by weight and most preferably of at least 95% by weight. It goes without saying that the sum of the weight proportions from (a1) and (a2) and (a3) based on the total weight of the agent (A) can be a maximum of 100% by weight.
  • the agent that contains the components (a1), (a2) and (a3) together in a weight proportion of at least 70% by weight, the sum of the weight proportions from the substance groups (a1) and (a2) and (a3) is at least 70% by weight, so that the agent can contain further ingredients that are different from (a1), (a2) and (a3) in a weight proportion of a maximum of 30% by weight.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) contains the components (a1), (a2) and (a3) together in a weight proportion of at least 30% by weight, preferably of at least 50% by weight, more preferably of at least 70% by weight, even more preferably of at least 90% by weight and most preferably of at least 95% by weight.
  • oil or oils (a2) allows the amino silicones (a1) and pigments (a3) to be colored from a hydrophobic environment, so that the use of water as a cosmetic carrier is no longer necessary. Accordingly, the water content on average (A) can be reduced.
  • the agents (A) which - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contain 0.1 to 50.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 35.0% by weight, are particularly suitable. -%, more preferably 1.0 to 20.0% by weight and particularly preferably 1.5 to 15.0% by weight of water.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) - based on the total weight of the agent (A) - contains 0.1 to 50.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 35 .0% by weight, more preferably 1.0 to 20.0% by weight and particularly preferably 1.5 to 15.0% by weight of water.
  • the agent (A) represents the ready-to-use agent (A). What is particularly convenient for the user is the direct provision of the agent (A) in a container, sachet or applicator bottle, which allows the agent to be used directly.
  • the pigments based on lamellar substrate plates, the pigments based on lenticular substrate plates and the vacuum metallized pigments, which are often metal pigments, have an increased tendency to corrode when stored in medium (A).
  • the agent (A1) contains, for example, the amino-functionalized silicone polymer(s) and the oil(s) (A2).
  • Storage-stable pigments (a3) can also be integrated into the agent (A).
  • the agent (A2) then contains separately formulated pigments with lower storage stability.
  • an agent (A) according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent (A) is produced by mixing two agents (A1) and (A2),
  • agent (A1) contains:
  • (a3) optionally at least one pigment selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or mica- or mica-based colored pigments containing at least one metal oxide and/or one metal oxychloride coated, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorgho, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510,
  • agent (A2) contains:
  • (a3) at least one pigment selected from the group of pigments based on a lamellar substrate plate, pigments based on a lenticular substrate plate and vacuum metallized pigments.
  • the user can prepare the agent (A) by mixing, stirring or shaking the agents (A1) and (A2).
  • agent (A1) can be mixed with 1 to 5 g of agent (A2).
  • the agent (A1) can be mixed with the agent (A2), so mixing ratios (A1)/(A2) of 1:400 to 400:1 are conceivable. It is particularly preferred if the application mixture is prepared by mixing the agents (A1) and (A2) in a weight ratio (A1)/(A2) of 200:1 to 1:1, preferably of 150:1 to 3:1, more preferably of 120:1 to 4:1 and particularly preferably from 110:1 to 50:1
  • 150 g of agent (A1) can be mixed with 1 g of agent (A2).
  • agent (A1) can be mixed with 1 g of agent (A2). further optional ingredients in the agent (A)
  • the agent (A) preferably contains the previously described components (a1), (a2) and (a3) as main components. Nevertheless, depending on the desired application properties, the agent (A) can also contain small amounts of other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as surfactants, film-forming polymers, solvents, fat components such as Cs-Cso fatty alcohols, Ca- Cso fatty acid triglycerides, Ca-Cso fatty acid monoglycerides, Ca-Cso fatty acid diglycerides and/or hydrocarbons; polymers; structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecitin and cephalins; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the product
  • the specialist will select these other substances based on the desired properties of the products.
  • additional active ingredients and auxiliary substances are used in the preparations according to the invention, for example, in amounts of 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
  • the agent (A) is particularly suitable for use on human hair.
  • the agent can be applied to dry hair, or the hair can be washed or moistened before use so that the agent (A) is applied to damp hair.
  • the product (A) may be advantageous to allow the product (A) to act on the hair for a period of 15 seconds to 60 minutes.
  • This duration of use is particularly preferred if the agent (A) according to the invention is washed out again after use - either with water or, if necessary, with the help of a shampoo.
  • agent (A) it is particularly preferred not to wash out the agent (A) but to use it as a leave-on product.
  • Using it as a leave-on product means that the agent (A) is not washed out after application, but that the agent (A) remains on the hair and the hair is dried together with the agent (A) after applying it .
  • the hair still exposed to the agent (A) can be dried either at room temperature or by heating the hair, for example with the aid of an external heat source such as a hair dryer or a straightening iron.
  • an external heat source such as a hair dryer or a straightening iron.
  • the agent (A) remains on the hair while it dries, so that the exposure time of the agent (A) and the drying time of the hair can overlap.
  • a second subject of the present invention is the use of an agent (A) of the first subject of the invention as a leave-on coloring agent for coloring human hair.
  • a third subject of the present invention is a method for coloring human hair, comprising the following steps in the order given:
  • the agent (A) is applied to the hair.
  • the agent (A) can either be made available to the user directly as such, or the agent (A) can also be prepared shortly before use by mixing the two previously described agents (A1) and (A2).
  • the application can be done, for example, with a gloved hand or with the help of a brush or an applicette.
  • step (2) of the process the agent (A) is allowed to act on the hair.
  • the exposure time can be, for example, 15 seconds to 60 minutes.
  • step (3) of the method according to the invention the hair is dried without first washing out the agent (A).
  • the agent (A) is used as a leave-on product, whereby the hair that is still exposed to the agent (A) is dried either at room temperature or with the help of an external heat source such as a hairdryer or a straightening iron.
  • an external heat source such as a hairdryer or a straightening iron.
  • the hair can be heated, for example, to a temperature of 37 to 220 ° C, preferably 40 to 180 ° C, more preferably 45 to 150 ° C and particularly preferably 48 to 90 ° C.
  • the agent (A) When used as a leave-on product, the agent (A) remains on the hair while it dries, so that the exposure time of the agent (A) and the drying time of the hair can overlap.
  • Hair strands were measured colorimetrically.
  • the hair strands were first briefly moistened and then dried with a towel.
  • the agent (A) was applied evenly to the towel-dried strand (1 g agent (A) per 1 g strand).
  • the strands that were still exposed to agent (A) were dried and then measured again colorimetrically.
  • the strands were then washed 3 times or 6 times.
  • a commercially available shampoo (0.25 g of shampoo (Schauma 7 herbs) per 1 g of hair) was applied to the strands and massaged in with the fingers for 30 seconds. The shampoo was then rinsed out for 1 minute under running, lukewarm water and the strand of hair was dried. The process described above corresponds to washing your hair. The process was repeated for each subsequent hair wash. The hair washed in this way was measured colorimetrically.
  • dE [ (Li - Lo) 2 + (ai - ao) 2 + (bi - bo)] 1/2
  • Li, ai and bi measured values of the dyed or dyed and washed strand

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)
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Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation (A) pour teindre une matière kératinique, en particulier des cheveux humains, contenant, par rapport au poids total de la substance (A), (a1) un total de 0,1 à 10,0 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs polymères de silicone amino-fonctionnalisés, (a2) un total de 20,0 à 99,8 % en poids d'une ou plusieurs huiles cosmétiques qui sont liquides à 20 °C et sont différentes de (a1), et (a3) 0,1 à 10,0 % en poids d'un ou plusieurs pigments.
PCT/EP2023/050470 2022-04-12 2023-01-10 Préparation pour teinture de matières kératiniques, contenant des aminosilicones, des huiles et des pigments dans des gammes de poids déterminées WO2023198320A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102022203641.7A DE102022203641A1 (de) 2022-04-12 2022-04-12 Mittel zum Färben von keratinischem Material, enthaltend Aminosilikone, Öle und Pigmente in bestimmten Mengenbereichen
DE102022203641.7 2022-04-12

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WO2023198320A1 true WO2023198320A1 (fr) 2023-10-19

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2005063180A1 (fr) * 2003-12-18 2005-07-14 The Procter & Gamble Company Amelioration de la perception de couleur de cheveux colores artificiellement
WO2013085577A2 (fr) * 2011-12-07 2013-06-13 Avon Products, Inc. Compositions résistantes au lavage contenant de l'aminosilicone
WO2020260097A1 (fr) * 2019-06-24 2020-12-30 L'oreal Composition anhydre comprenant au moins une silicone aminée, au moins un alcoxysilane et au moins un colorant
WO2021058240A1 (fr) * 2019-09-23 2021-04-01 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit pour colorer une matière kératinique, contenant de l'aminosilicone, un composé chromophore et de l'huile d'ester

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2005063180A1 (fr) * 2003-12-18 2005-07-14 The Procter & Gamble Company Amelioration de la perception de couleur de cheveux colores artificiellement
WO2013085577A2 (fr) * 2011-12-07 2013-06-13 Avon Products, Inc. Compositions résistantes au lavage contenant de l'aminosilicone
WO2020260097A1 (fr) * 2019-06-24 2020-12-30 L'oreal Composition anhydre comprenant au moins une silicone aminée, au moins un alcoxysilane et au moins un colorant
WO2021058240A1 (fr) * 2019-09-23 2021-04-01 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit pour colorer une matière kératinique, contenant de l'aminosilicone, un composé chromophore et de l'huile d'ester

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
CAS, no. 106842-44-8

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