WO2021058240A1 - Produit pour colorer une matière kératinique, contenant de l'aminosilicone, un composé chromophore et de l'huile d'ester - Google Patents

Produit pour colorer une matière kératinique, contenant de l'aminosilicone, un composé chromophore et de l'huile d'ester Download PDF

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WO2021058240A1
WO2021058240A1 PCT/EP2020/074355 EP2020074355W WO2021058240A1 WO 2021058240 A1 WO2021058240 A1 WO 2021058240A1 EP 2020074355 W EP2020074355 W EP 2020074355W WO 2021058240 A1 WO2021058240 A1 WO 2021058240A1
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acid
group
amino
alcohol
weight
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PCT/EP2020/074355
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Constanze Neuba
Sandra Hilbig
Melanie Moch
Daniela Kessler-Becker
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Priority to US17/763,157 priority Critical patent/US11872302B2/en
Priority to CN202080065983.0A priority patent/CN114466646A/zh
Priority to EP20768528.0A priority patent/EP4034076A1/fr
Priority to JP2022518331A priority patent/JP2022549813A/ja
Publication of WO2021058240A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021058240A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the present application relates to an agent for coloring keratinous material, in particular human hair, which contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), at least one coloring compound (a2) and at least one ester oil (a3).
  • a second subject matter of this application is a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, wherein an agent of the first subject matter of the invention is applied to the keratinic material, allowed to act and then washed out again with water.
  • Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent, intensive dyeings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes with one another. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting dyeing results.
  • color pigments are generally understood to mean insoluble, coloring substances. These are undissolved in the form of small particles in the dye formulation and are only deposited on the outside of the hair fibers and / or the surface of the skin. Therefore, they can usually be removed without residue by a few washes with detergents containing surfactants. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name of hair mascara. If the user wants particularly long-lasting coloring, the use of oxidative coloring agents has so far been his only option. However, despite multiple attempts at optimization, an unpleasant smell of ammonia or amine cannot be completely avoided with oxidative hair coloring.
  • the hair damage still associated with the use of oxidative coloring agents also has a detrimental effect on the user's hair.
  • the search for alternative, high-performance dyeing processes is therefore still a challenge.
  • the color intensities and wash fastness of colorants based on the use of pigments are still in great need of improvement.
  • a first object of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, containing (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound, and (a3) at least one ester oil.
  • Keratinic material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Keratinic material is very particularly preferably understood to mean human hair.
  • the agent contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer.
  • the amino-functionalized silicone polymer can alternatively also be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.
  • Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which comprise repeating organic units.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerisation (number of polymerised monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerisation method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
  • the silicone polymers comprise many Si — O repeating units, it being possible for the Si atoms to carry organic radicals such as, for example, alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups.
  • a silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as a polydimethylsiloxane.
  • the silicone polymers are based on more than 10 Si-O repeat units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeat units and particularly preferably more than 100 Si-O repeat units, very particularly preferably more than 500 Si-O repeat units .
  • An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is understood to mean a functionalized silicone which carries at least one structural unit with an amino group.
  • the amino-functionalized silicone polymer preferably carries a plurality of structural units each with at least one amino group.
  • An amino group is understood to mean a primary amino group, a secondary amino group and a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic medium and are then in their cationic form.
  • amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) if they carry at least one primary, at least one secondary and / or at least one tertiary amino group.
  • dyeings with the best wash fastness were observed when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) was used in the medium which contains at least one secondary amino group.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) with at least one secondary amino group.
  • the secondary amino group (s) can be located at various positions on the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Very particularly good effects were found when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) was used that has at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-amino). -Amino)
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-amino), -Amino) where
  • ALK1 and ALK2 independently of one another for a linear or branched, bivalent Ci-
  • the positions marked with an asterisk (*) indicate the bond to further structural units of the silicone polymer.
  • the silicon atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to a further oxygen atom
  • the oxygen atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to a further silicon atom or to a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • a divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group can alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or double-bonded Ci-C2o-alkylene group, which means that each grouping ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.
  • ALK1 there is a bond from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group, and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
  • one bond is from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 moiety, and the second bond is between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
  • Examples of a linear divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) and the butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred.
  • divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C2o-alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH (CH3) -) and (-CH2-CH (CH3) -CH2-).
  • the structural units of the formula (Si-amino) represent repeating units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1), so that the silicone polymer comprises several structural units of the formula (Si-amino).
  • Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) which comprises structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II)
  • a corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Sill) is, for example, the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is sold commercially by the Dow Chemical Company and which has the name “Siloxanes and Silicones, 3 - [(2-Aminoethyl) amino] -2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane ”and the CAS number 106842-44-8.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula of the formula (Si-III), where m and n denote numbers which are chosen such that the sum (n + m) is in the range from 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range from 1 to
  • Another agent preferred according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula of the formula (Si-IV), in which p and q denote numbers which are chosen so that the sum (p + q) is in the range from 1 to 1000, p is a number in the range from 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range from 1 to
  • R1 and R2 which are different, denote a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 to R2 denoting a hydroxyl group.
  • the silicones of the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping on the Si atom that carries the nitrogen-containing group:
  • R2 denotes a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the remainder in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group.
  • Agents according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula of the formula (Si-V) have also proven to be particularly effective with regard to the desired effects in the
  • A represents a group -OH, -0-Si (CH3) 3, -0-Si (CH 3 ) 2 0H, -0-Si (CH 3 ) 2 0CH3,
  • the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are randomly distributed, i.e. they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
  • the agent can also contain one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers, which are represented by the formula (Si-VI)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical with 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, where R 1 is a divalent, connecting group which is bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon , Hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group;
  • "a” takes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3
  • a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • x is a number in the range from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl, and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl groups such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halogenated hydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mer
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, - CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH2-, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH2CH2SCH2CH 2-, -CH2CH2OCH2-, -OCH2CH2-, -OCH 2 CH2CH2-, - CH 2 CH (CH 3) C (0) 0CH2-, - (CH 2) 3 CC (0) 0CH 2 CH 2 -, -CeH 4 C 6 H 4 -, -CeH 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2) 3C (0) SCH 2 CH 2 - a.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • One possible formula for Z is NH (CH2) zNH2, where z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zzNH, where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure including diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl.
  • Most preferably Z is an -NHCH2CH 2NH2 radical.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH2) z (CH2) zzNX2 or -NX2, wherein each X of X2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is zero.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amine-functional radical of the formula -CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH 2.
  • a takes values in the range from about 0 to about 2
  • b takes values in the range from about 2 to about 3
  • a "+” b is less than or equal to 3
  • c is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3.
  • c SiO ( 4-C) / 2 units ranges from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20 If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, then the various variable substituents in the above formula can be different for the various silicone components that are present in the silicone mixture.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-VII)
  • - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH3, -CH 3 , -O-CH2CH3, -CH2CH3, -O-
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular assumes from 1 to 10,
  • R ' is a monovalent radical selected from o -QN (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R") 2 o -QN (R ") 2 o -QN + (R") 3 A- o - QN + H (R ") 2 A- o -QN + H 2 (R") A- o -QN (R ”) - CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R" H 2 A-, where each Q represents one chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C (CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C ( CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 2 -,
  • R stands for identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 - CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the Ci- 2 o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-Vlla),
  • m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • these silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-VIIb)
  • agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone polymer whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g lies.
  • the amine number stands for the milli-equivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also given in the unit mg KOH / g.
  • This amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formulas (S1-VIII) and the formula (Si-IX)
  • a very particularly preferred amino-functionalized silicone polymer is known under the name Amodimethicone / Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer and is commercially available from Wacker in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301 E.
  • the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone that can be used is a silicone which has structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) in which
  • R1 is -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -0-CH (CH 3 ) 2;
  • R2 stands for -CH3, -OH, or -OCH3.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-Xl)
  • R1 is -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH3, -O-CH2CH3, -O-CH2CH2CH3, or -O-OH (OH 3 ) 2 ;
  • R2 stands for -CH3, -OH, or -OCH3.
  • B represents a group -OH, -0-Si (CH3) 3, -0-Si (CH 3 ) 2 0H, -0-Si (CH 3 ) 2 0CH3,
  • D stands for a group -H, -Si (CH3) 3, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 0H, -Si (CH 3 ) 2 0CH 3 , a, b and c independently of one another stand for integers between 0 and 1000, with the
  • Structural formula (Si-Xl) is intended to make it clear that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be bound directly to an end group B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI) a> 0 or b> 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI) a> 0 and c> 0, ie the terminal grouping B or D is preferably attached to a dimethylsiloxy grouping bound. In formula (Si-VI) too, the siloxane units a, b, c, m and n are preferably distributed randomly.
  • the agent according to the invention contains the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (s) (a1) in certain quantity ranges. Particularly good results could be obtained when the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably of 0.3 to 3.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that - based on the total weight of the agent - it contains one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers (a1) in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0 , 2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 3.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight. coloring compounds (a2)
  • the agent according to the invention contains at least one coloring compound (a2) as a second essential component.
  • coloring compounds are understood to mean substances which are capable of imparting coloring to the keratin material.
  • Particularly suitable coloring compounds can be selected from the group of pigments, substantive dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of pigments, substantive dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
  • Pigments in the context of the present invention are understood to mean coloring compounds which at 25 ° C. in water have a solubility of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0, 05 g / L.
  • the water solubility can be achieved, for example, by means of the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed out in a beaker. A stir fry is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved constituents of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.
  • the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.
  • Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
  • Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite, for example.
  • black pigments such as. B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such. B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.
  • Colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and / or metal molybdates are particularly suitable.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510 ) and / or carmine (cochineal).
  • Color pigments which are likewise particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica is one of the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxide (s) can also be used as the pearlescent pigment.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of inorganic pigments, which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides , Metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • a2 from the group of inorganic pigments, which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides , Metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it (a) contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of pigments, which is selected from pigments based on mica or mica, which are mixed with one or more metal oxides from Group of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007 , Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77510) are coated.
  • CI 77891 titanium dioxide
  • black iron oxide (CI 77499) black iron oxide
  • CI 77492 yellow iron oxide
  • red and / or brown iron oxide CI 77491, CI 77499
  • manganese violet
  • color pigments are commercially available, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® available from Sunstar.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
  • color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:
  • the agent according to the invention can also contain one or more coloring compounds (a2) from the group of organic pigments
  • the organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene -, Diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.
  • Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of organic pigments, which is preferably selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490
  • a2 from the
  • the organic pigment can also be a colored lacquer.
  • the term colored lacquer is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particles and dye being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions.
  • the particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or also aluminum.
  • the alizarin color varnish for example, can be used as the color varnish.
  • the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agent is very particularly preferred. It is also preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1.0 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably 5.0 to 45 ⁇ m, more preferably 10 to 40 ⁇ m, in particular 14 to 30 ⁇ m.
  • the mean particle size Dso can be determined using dynamic light scattering (DLS), for example.
  • the coloring compounds (a2) represent the second essential element of the agent according to the invention and are preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the agent.
  • the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. -%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5% by weight.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more pigments (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0 .1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain one or more substantive dyes as coloring compounds (a2).
  • Substantive dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color.
  • Substantive dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the substantive dyes preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 1.0 g / l.
  • Substantive dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) from the group of anionic, nonionic and cationic substantive dyes.
  • Suitable cationic substantive dyes are, for example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76.
  • Nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes can be used, for example, as nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) -aminophenol, 2- (2-
  • Acid dyes are taken to mean substantive dyes which contain at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or a sulfonic acid group (-SO3H).
  • -COOH carboxylic acid group
  • -SO3H sulfonic acid group
  • the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -SO3 present). The proportion of protonated forms increases with decreasing pH.
  • the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electrical neutrality.
  • Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
  • the acid dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the acid dyes preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 1.0 g / l.
  • alkaline earth salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts
  • aluminum salts of acid dyes often have poorer solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 ° C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a substantive dye.
  • acid dyes are their ability to form anionic charges, the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this usually being linked to different chromophoric systems.
  • Suitable chromophoric systems are found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes.
  • an agent for coloring keratinic material is characterized in that it contains at least one anionic substantive dye which is selected from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene Dyes, the rhodamine dyes, the oxazine dyes and / or the indophenol dyes, the dyes from the aforementioned group each having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), a sodium carboxylate group (-COONa), a potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), a sulfonic acid group ( - SO3H) have a sodium sulfonate group (-SOsNa) and / or a potassium sulfonate group (-SO3K).
  • anionic substantive dye which is selected from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthra
  • Suitable acid dyes are, for example, one or more compounds from the following group: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, C1 10316, COLIPA No. B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n °: C 54, D&C Yellow N ° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (C1 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (C1 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n ° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No.
  • Acid Yellow 1 D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, C1 10316, COLIPA No. B001
  • Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n °: C 54, D&C Yellow N ° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (C1 130
  • Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065 ), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n ° C015), Acid Orange 10 (Cl 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; nosodiumsalt; Brown No.201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID ORANGE 24; Japan Brown 201; D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (Cl14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, CI 16185, C -Rot 46, Echtrot D, FD&C Red Nr.2, Food Red 9, Naphtholrot S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, CI
  • Acid Green 50 (Brillantklare indispensable BS, Cl 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n ° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20470, COLIPA n ° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.
  • the water solubility of the anionic substantive dyes can be determined, for example, in the following way. 0.1 g of the anionic substantive dye are placed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then 100 ml of water are added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If there are still undissolved residues, the amount of water is increased - for example in steps of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered.
  • Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and sisulfonic acids of 2- (2-quinolyl) -1 H-indene-1,3 (2H) -dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - ((4-sulfophenyl) azo) -1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is good at 25 ° C soluble in water.
  • Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4 - [(2-Hydroxy-1-naphthyl) azo] benzene sulfonate. Its water solubility is more than 7 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 18 is the trinity salt of 7-hydroxy-8 - [(E) - (4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl) -diazenyl)] - 1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high solubility in water of more than 20 wt. %.
  • Acid Red 33 is the diantrium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3- (phenylazo) -naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2- (1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl) benzoic acid, its water solubility is specified with more than 10 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2 - ( ⁇ 4- [N-ethyl (3-sulfonatobenzyl] amino] phenyl ⁇ ⁇ 4 - [(N-ethyl (3-sulfonatobenzyl) imino] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1- ylidene ⁇ methyl) benzene sulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20% by weight (25 ° C).
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one substantive dye (a2) selected from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet2 and / or D
  • the substantive dye (s) can be used in various amounts on average, depending on the desired color intensity. Good results could be obtained if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more substantive dyes (a2) in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0 % By weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight. Furthermore, the agent can also contain at least one photochromic or thermochromic dye as the coloring compound (a2).
  • Photochromic dyes are dyes that react to exposure to UV light (sunlight or black light) with a reversible change in color.
  • the UV light changes the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (photochromism).
  • Thermochromic dyes are dyes that react to changes in temperature with a reversible change in color. The change in temperature changes the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (thermochromism).
  • the agent can further contain one or more photochromic dyes (a2) in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8.0% by weight preferably from 0.2 to 6.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight
  • the agents according to the invention contain at least one ester oil as a third essential ingredient (a3).
  • ester oils according to the invention are characterized in that they have a melting point below 25 ° C. at normal pressure (1013 mbar).
  • a first object of the present invention is an agent for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, containing (a1) at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound, and
  • (a3) at least one ester oil which has a melting point below 25 ° C. at 1013 mbar.
  • ester oil that was selected from the group consisting of the monoesters of Ci 2 -C 24 fatty acids with aliphatic, monovalent C1-C24 - Alcohol is selected.
  • an agent for coloring keratinic material is characterized in that it (A3) contains at least one ester of a Ci 2 -C 24 fatty acid and an aliphatic, monohydric Ci-C 24 alcohol.
  • an agent for coloring keratinic material is characterized in that it
  • (a3) contains at least one ester oil from a Ci 2 -C 24 fatty acid and an aliphatic, monohydric Ci-C 24 alcohol, the ester oil having a melting point below 25 ° C at 1013 mbar.
  • Ci 2 -C 24 fatty acids which are suitable for forming the ester oils (a3) are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, capro alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, linadyl alcohol, linadyl alcohol, linadyl alcohol, petrolacyl alcohol, linadyl alcohol, linadyl alcohol, ethylhexyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, linadyl alcohol, linadyl alcohol. Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • Ci 2 -C 24 fatty acids are esterified by reaction with an aliphatic Ci-C 24 alcohol, which is particularly preferably a mono-alcohol, so that a mono-ester is formed during the esterification.
  • an aliphatic Ci-C 24 alcohol which is particularly preferably a mono-alcohol, so that a mono-ester is formed during the esterification.
  • the aliphatic Ci-C 24 alcohols can be linear or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated.
  • the aliphatic saturated Ci-C 24 alcohol can be used, for example, from the group consisting of methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, iso-propanol, n-butanol, n-pentanol, 2-ethylhexanol, n-hexanol , n-octanol, n-decanol and n-dodecanol is selected.
  • Ci-C 24 alcohol examples include oleyl alcohol (octadec-9-en-1-ol), palmitoleyl alcohol (c / s-9-hexadecen-1-ol), elaidyl alcohol (French-9-octadecen-1 -ol) and c / s-11-octadecen-1-ol.
  • esters (a3) the C 2 -C 24 fatty acids and the C 1 -C 12 alcohols are selected so that the ester formed from both reactants by esterification is an ester oil, ie it has a melting point below 1013 mbar 25 ° C.
  • Some ester oils (a3) according to the invention can be used in the form of commercially available raw materials which are mixtures of the esters obtained from fatty acids of different chain lengths and / or alcohols of different chain lengths. These raw materials can have a melting range. In the case of these raw materials, a melting point below 25 ° C means that the melting process begins at a temperature below 25 ° C.
  • this raw material having a melting range of 16 to 27 ° C, then this raw material contains at least one ester oil with a melting point below 25 ° C.
  • This ester oil is thus according to the invention.
  • ester oils are, for example, the compounds of the general (EO-I) in which
  • R1 represents an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C23-alkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups
  • R2 stands for a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C24-alkyl radical.
  • an agent for coloring keratinic material is characterized in that it
  • (A3) contains at least one ester oil of the general formula (E ⁇ -I) in which
  • R1 represents an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C23-alkyl radical optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups
  • R2 stands for a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C24-alkyl radical.
  • the remainder of R1 is 23 -alkyl radical, an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups substituted Cn-C.
  • the radical R1 preferably stands for an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C17 alkyl radical which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • the radical R1 very particularly preferably represents an unshown, saturated Cn-Ci7-alkyl radical.
  • the radical R2 stands for an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C24-alkyl radical.
  • the radical R2 preferably stands for an unbranched or branched, saturated C1-C12-alkyl radical.
  • the radical R2 particularly preferably stands for an unbranched or branched, saturated Ci-Cs-alkyl radical.
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24), isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), cetearyl
  • the ester oil (a3) is very particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, C16-18-alkyl isonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl stearate, Isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, lauric acid hexyl ester, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester.
  • an agent for coloring keratinic material is characterized in that it
  • (a3) at least one ester oil from the group of isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, C16-18-alkyl isonanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl palmitate, , Lauric acid hexyl ester, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester.
  • Isopropyl myristate is also known as isopropyl myristate and has the CAS number 110-27-0.
  • Isopropyl myristast is a colorless and odorless liquid. The melting point is between 0 and 1 ° C.
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate is also referred to as hexadecanoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and has the CAS number 29806-73-3
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate is a branched, saturated ester oil made from palmitic acid and ethylhexyl alcohol.
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate is in the form of a clear, colorless liquid with a slightly greasy odor.
  • Isononanoic acid C16-18-alkyl ester is alternatively referred to as cetearyl isononanoate, this ester has the CAS numbers 84878-33-1 and 84878-34-2.
  • C16-18-alkyl isononanoate is a clear, slightly yellowish liquid.
  • 20 ° C isonanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester has a viscosity of 19-22 mPas.
  • 2-ethylhexyl ester is alternatively referred to as ethylhexyl stearate and has the CAS number 91031-48-0.
  • 2-ethylhexyl stearate is in the form of a clear, slightly yellowish, thin oil.
  • 2-ethylhexyl stearate has a viscosity of 14-16 mPas and is accordingly an oil at room temperature.
  • Cetyl oleate has the CAS number 22393-86-8.
  • coconut fatty alcohol caprylate / caprate has the CAS number 95912-86-0. Is a mixture of C8-C10 fatty acids with C12-C18 fatty alcohols, which is in the form of a yellow liquid and which has a melting point of 10 ° C.
  • n-butyl stearate is also known as butyl stearate and has the CAS numbers 85408-76-0 (C16-18) and 123-95-5 (C18).
  • n-Butyl stearate is a yellowish liquid and begins to melt at 16 ° C.
  • Oleylerucat has the CAS number 17673-56-2. Oleylerucat is a yellow liquid. At 20 ° C, Oleylerucat one has a viscosity of 40 - 50 mpas and is an oil at room temperature.
  • Isopropyl palmitate is alternatively known as propan-2-yl hexadecanoate and has the CAS number 142-91-6.
  • the melting point of isopropyl palmitate is 13.5 ° C.
  • Oleyl Oleate is also known as Cis-9,10-octadecenyl-cis-9,10-octadecanoate or as Oleic acid oleyl ester and has the CAS number 3687-45-4.
  • Oleyl oleate is a clear, light weight yellowish oil that has a viscosity of 25-30 mPas at 20 ° C and is an oil at room temperature.
  • Hexyl laurate is alternatively referred to as hexyl laurate and has the CAS number 34316-64-8. Hexyl laurate is a clear, yellowish, odorless oil at room temperature. At 20 ° C, lauric acid hexyl ester has a viscosity of 5-7 mpas and is accordingly an oil at room temperature.
  • Cetearyl Isononanoate is alternatively also called Isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester and has the CAS numbers 84878-33-1 and 84878-34-2. Cetearyl Isononanoate is a yellowish liquid with a melting point of 16-22 ° C.
  • Oleic acid decyl ester is alternatively also known as decyl oleate and has the CAS number 3687-46-5. Decyl oleic ester is a slightly yellowish liquid that has a viscosity of 15-20 mPas at 20 ° C. Decyl oleic ester is therefore an oil at room temperature.
  • ester oils (a3) described above, in particular the preferred and particularly preferred compounds, are advantageously used in certain quantity ranges in the agent according to the invention.
  • the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - contains one or more ester oils (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight. -%, more preferably from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 4.0 to 8.0% by weight.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more ester oils (a3) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 4.0 to 8.0% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain at least one C 2 -C 24 fatty alcohol as a further optional component.
  • the Ci 2 -C 24 fatty alcohols can be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols with 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • Examples of preferred linear saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohols are dodecane-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecane-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecane-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), Octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), heneicosyl alcohol (heneicosan-1-ol) and / or behenyl alcohol (docosan-1-ol).
  • Preferred linear, unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z) -octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9 E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z) -octadeca-9 , 12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z, 12Z, 15Z) -octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenoyl alcohol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -Eicos-9-en-1 - ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -Eicosa-5,8,11, 14-tetraen-1-ol), erucyl alcohol ((13Z) -Docos-13-en-1-ol) and / or brassidyl alcohol ((13E) -docosen-1-ol).
  • the preferred representatives of branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one C 2 -C 24 fatty alcohol, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of
  • Dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol),
  • Tetradecan-1-ol tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol
  • Hexadecan-1-ol hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol
  • Octadecan-1-ol octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol
  • Arachyl alcohol eicosan-1-ol
  • Gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -Eicos-9-en-1-ol)
  • Arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -Eicosa-5,8,11, 14-tetraen-1-ol),
  • Ci 2 -C 24 fatty alcohols it has proven to be very particularly preferred to use one or more Ci 2 -C 24 fatty alcohols in very specific quantity ranges. It is very particularly preferred if the agent - based on the total weight of the agent - one or more Ci 2 -C 24 fatty alcohols in a total amount of 2.0 to 50.0 wt .-%, preferably from 3.0 to 30.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, even more preferably from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 5.0 to 13.0 Contains wt .-%.
  • the agents according to the invention can also contain at least one surfactant as a further optional component.
  • at least one surfactant in order to further optimize the formation of the emulsion, it has proven to be very particularly preferred to continue to use at least one nonionic surfactant on average.
  • the agent according to the invention therefore very particularly preferably additionally contains at least one surfactant.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and interfaces or can aggregate in volume phases to form micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic residue
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but rather strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group. Such connections are for example
  • Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters, such as, for example, the polysorbates,
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose.
  • the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
  • alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C12 / 14 coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.
  • R 5 CO-NR 6 - [Z] (Tnio-3) in which R 5 CO stands for an aliphatic acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] for represents a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, as represented by the formula (Tnio-4):
  • Glucamides of the formula (Tnio- 4), in which R 8 stands for hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palm oleic acid, are preferably used as fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides.
  • Fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides of the formula (Tnio-4), which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative, are particularly preferred.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the sugar surfactants can be contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and quantities of 0.5-7.5% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolyzates (in particular vegetable products based on wheat) and polysorbates.
  • alkylene oxide addition products with saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl and 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start with native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” Homolog distribution as well as those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used.
  • “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts.
  • narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one nonionic surfactant (b4) of the formula (Tl),
  • Rb stands for a saturated or unsaturated, unbranched or branched C8-C24-alkyl group, preferably a saturated, unbroken Ci- to Cie-alkyl group, and m stands for an integer from 10 to 40, preferably an integer from 20 to 35 and particularly preferably the number 30.
  • a particularly suitable nonionic surfactant of this type is ceteareth-30.
  • Ceteareth-30 is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, each of which is ethoxylated with 30 units of ethylene oxide. The mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol is called cetearyl alcohol. Ceteareth-30 has the CAS number 68439- 49-6 and can be purchased, for example, under the trade name Eumulgin B3 from BASF.
  • the nonionic surfactants are preferably used in the suitable quantity ranges in the agent (b).
  • the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - can contain one or more nonionic surfactants in one Total amount from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight. -% contain.
  • the agent described above is a ready-to-use agent that can be applied to the keratinous material.
  • This ready-to-use agent preferably has a high water content. It has been found that especially those agents are particularly well suited which — based on the total weight of the agent — 50.0 to 98.0% by weight, preferably 60.0 to 90.0% by weight, are more preferred 70.0 to 90.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 75.0 to 90.0% by weight of water.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that - based on the total weight of the agent - it contains 50.0 to 98.0% by weight, preferably 60.0 to 90.0% by weight, more preferably 70.0 to 90.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 75.0 to 90.0% by weight of water. further optional ingredients on average
  • the agent can also contain further optional ingredients.
  • the agent can contain a film-forming polymer.
  • the film-forming polymer can, for example, be selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolidone copolymers / Vinylformamide copolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, explicitly very particularly preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • suitable film-forming polymers can be selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of Methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides .
  • the film-forming polymers which are selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by free radical polymerization or natural polymers have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Other particularly suitable film-forming polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, the esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid with at least one Ci-C2o-alkyl group, a Aryl group or a C2-C10 hydroxyalkyl group.
  • Further film-forming polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth) acrylate; isononyl (meth) acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate; Lauryl (meth) acrylate); isopentyl (meth) acrylate; n-butyl (meth) acrylate); isobutyl (meth) acrylate; Ethyl (meth) acrylate; Methyl (meth) acrylate; tert-butyl (meth) acrylate; Stearyl (meth) acrylate; Hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (methacrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate and / or mixtures thereof).
  • Further film-forming polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth) acrylamide; N-alkyl- (meth) acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as, for example, N-ethyl-acrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide, N-octyl-acrylamide; N-di (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylamide.
  • Suitable anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their Ci-C6-alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers.
  • a suitable commercial product is, for example Aculyn ® 33 from Rohm & Haas.
  • copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their Ci-C6-alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol are also preferred.
  • Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
  • Polymers on the market are, for example, Aculyn® 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn® 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acryla-tes / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or the Soltex OPT (Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer) sold by Rohme and Haas.
  • Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers are the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl (C1-C6) alkyl pyrrole, vinyl oxazole, vinyl thiazole, of vinyl pyrimidine, of vinyl imidazole.
  • copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as is sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamides under the trade names DERMACRYL® LT and DERMACRYL ® 79 are distributed by NATIONAL STARCH.
  • Suitable polymers based on olefins are the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.
  • block copolymers which comprise at least one block of styrene or the derivatives of styrene can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers.
  • These block copolymers can be copolymers which, in addition to a styrene block, contain one or more other blocks, such as, for example, styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene.
  • Corresponding polymers are sold commercially by BASF under the trade name “Luvitol HSB”.
  • both anionic and also cationic and / or nonionic polymers can be used in the agent according to the invention, it has proven to be very particularly preferred not to use further ionic compounds or to use only small amounts. In other words, a particularly strong improvement in color intensity could be achieved when the agent was predominantly nonionic and therefore contained cationic and anionic polymers either not at all or only in very small amounts. For this reason, it has been found to be particularly preferred if the total content of all the anionic polymers contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, it has been found to be very particularly preferred if the total content of all the cationic polymers contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight. The proportion of cationic or anionic polymer is based in each case on the total weight of the agent.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that - based on the total weight of the agent -
  • the agents can in principle also contain one or more charged surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which have both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which have a hydrophobic residue and a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but rather strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (_) or -S03 (_) group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylamino ethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs - C24 - alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SOsH group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 C. Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-Cis-acylsarcosine.
  • the agents can also contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Cationic surfactants are understood as meaning surfactants, that is to say surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants only contain positive charges. These surfactants are usually made up of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part usually consisting of a hydrocarbon structure (e.g. consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains), and the positive charge (s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are examples of cationic surfactants.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which can carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms as hydrophobic radicals, - Quaternary phosphonium salts, substituted with one or more alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms or
  • the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g. an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure.
  • the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case, for example, with ester quats.
  • the cationic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
  • the agents according to the invention can furthermore also contain at least one anionic surfactant.
  • Anionic surfactants are surface-active agents with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding counter cation).
  • anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 12 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • both anionic and also cationic and / or nonionic surfactants can be used in the agent according to the invention, it has proven to be very particularly preferred not to use further ionic compounds or to use only small amounts. In other words, a particularly strong improvement in color intensity could be achieved when the agent was predominantly nonionic and therefore either did not contain any cationic and anionic surfactants or only contained them in very small amounts. For this reason, it has been found to be particularly preferred if the total content of all the anionic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, it has been found to be particularly preferred if the total content of all the cationic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight. The proportion of cationic or anionic surfactant is based in each case on the total weight of the agent.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that - based on the total weight of the agent -
  • the total content of all the cationic surfactants contained in the agent is below 0.1% by weight.
  • the agents can also contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as fat components that are solid at room temperature, solvents, structurants such as glucose, Maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins; Perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar and lactose; Dyes for coloring the agent; Anti-dandruff ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; Amino acids and oligopeptides; Protein hydrolysates based on animals and / or plants, and in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; Sunscreens and UV blockers; Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pan
  • the person skilled in the art will select these additional substances in accordance with the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, express reference is made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are used in the preparations according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent. pH of the means
  • the pH of the agent according to the invention is preferably adjusted to a neutral to alkaline pH.
  • the agent very particularly preferably has an alkaline pH in the range from 7.0 to 11.5, preferably from 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably from 8.5 to 10.5.
  • the amino-functionalized silicone polymer (a1) can be dissolved or dispersed particularly well and without protonation.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it has a pH of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, and particularly preferably 8.5 to 10.5.
  • the agent according to the invention can contain at least one alkalizing agent.
  • the pH values in the context of the present invention are pH values that were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the agents can contain, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines and / or basic amino acids as alkalizing agents.
  • alkanolamines which can be used in the agent according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines with a C2-C6-alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group which is formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropane -2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1 -Amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.
  • Alkanolamines which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment is therefore characterized in that the agent according to the invention contains an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol as the alkalizing agent.
  • amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which in its structure contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SOsH group.
  • Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ - (alpha) -amino-carboxylic acids and w-aminocarboxylic acids, ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
  • basic amino acids are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point p1 of greater than 7.0.
  • Basic ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom.
  • both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates.
  • the basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.
  • the agent can contain other alkalizing agents, in particular inorganic alkalizing agents.
  • Inorganic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2- methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1, 3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, Sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • an agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one alkalizing agent from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutane-1- ol, 5- aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-Amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-Amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-Amino-propan-1, 2-diol, 2-Amino-2-methylpropan-1, 3-diol, Contains arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphat
  • the agents described above can be used excellently in processes for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
  • step (1) of the method according to the invention the agent of the first subject matter of the invention is applied to the keratinic material, which is very particularly preferably human hair.
  • step (2) of the method according to the invention the agent is then allowed to act on the keratinic material after its application.
  • different exposure times of for example 30 seconds to 60 minutes are conceivable.
  • a great advantage of the dyeing system according to the invention is that an intense color result can be achieved even in very short periods of time after short exposure times. For this reason, it is advantageous if the application mixture remains on the keratin material for comparatively short periods of time from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes after its application.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized by
  • step (3) of the method After the application mixture has acted on the keratin material, it is finally rinsed out with water in step (3) of the method.
  • the application mixture can only be washed out with water, i.e. without the aid of an aftertreatment agent or a shampoo.
  • an aftertreatment agent or conditioner in step (6) is also conceivable in principle.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized by
  • the respective agent (V1 and E1) was applied to locks of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar white, liquor ratio: 1 g agent (E1) per g lock of hair). The agent was left on for three minutes. The locks of hair were then washed out thoroughly (1 minute) with water, dried and then colorimetrically measured using a Spectraflash 450 color measuring device from Datacolor.
  • the dE value used to assess the color intensity is derived from the am
  • the chroma of a color is calculated according to the formula
  • the L value indicates the lightness of a color. The lower the L value, the darker and more intense the color
  • the agent according to the invention (E1) was used to measure darker, more intense colors (lower L value) and higher chroma (higher C value).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un produit pour colorer une matière kératinique, en particulier les cheveux, contenant : (a1) au moins un polymère de silicone à fonction amino, (a2) au moins un composé chromophore et (a3) au moins une huile d'ester. L'invention concerne également un procédé de coloration d'une matière kératinique à l'aide dudit produit appliqué sur la matière kératinique.
PCT/EP2020/074355 2019-09-23 2020-09-01 Produit pour colorer une matière kératinique, contenant de l'aminosilicone, un composé chromophore et de l'huile d'ester WO2021058240A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

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US17/763,157 US11872302B2 (en) 2019-09-23 2020-09-01 Product for dyeing keratinous material, containing aminosilicone, a chromophoric compound and ester oil
CN202080065983.0A CN114466646A (zh) 2019-09-23 2020-09-01 含有氨基硅酮、着色化合物以及酯油的用于使角蛋白材料着色的药剂
EP20768528.0A EP4034076A1 (fr) 2019-09-23 2020-09-01 Produit pour colorer une matière kératinique, contenant de l'aminosilicone, un composé chromophore et de l'huile d'ester
JP2022518331A JP2022549813A (ja) 2019-09-23 2020-09-01 アミノシリコーン、着色化合物およびエステル油を用いる、ケラチン性物質を着色するための剤

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DE102019214464.0A DE102019214464A1 (de) 2019-09-23 2019-09-23 Mittel zum Färben von keratinischem Material mit Aminosilikon, farbgebender Verbindung und Esteröl

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WO2023198320A1 (fr) * 2022-04-12 2023-10-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Préparation pour teinture de matières kératiniques, contenant des aminosilicones, des huiles et des pigments dans des gammes de poids déterminées

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DE19738866A1 (de) 1997-09-05 1999-03-11 Henkel Kgaa Schaumarme Tensidmischungen mit Hydroxymischethern
US20130164243A1 (en) * 2009-12-18 2013-06-27 Kao Germany Gmbh Conditioning composition for hair
US20160235655A1 (en) * 2015-02-17 2016-08-18 The Procter & Gamble Company Method for Providing a Film Comprising Pigment on Keratin Fibres
US20180110717A1 (en) * 2015-04-08 2018-04-26 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Oxidation dyes comprising a combination of silicon-block copolymers and phospholipids
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023143780A1 (fr) * 2022-01-26 2023-08-03 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Procédé de traitement de matières kératiniques, comprenant le mélange d'au moins deux agents (a) et (b)
WO2023198320A1 (fr) * 2022-04-12 2023-10-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Préparation pour teinture de matières kératiniques, contenant des aminosilicones, des huiles et des pigments dans des gammes de poids déterminées

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US20220323335A1 (en) 2022-10-13
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JP2022549813A (ja) 2022-11-29
CN114466646A (zh) 2022-05-10
EP4034076A1 (fr) 2022-08-03

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