EP4398991A1 - Procédé d'amélioration de la sensation tactile de fibres kératiniques colorées, en particulier des cheveux humains - Google Patents

Procédé d'amélioration de la sensation tactile de fibres kératiniques colorées, en particulier des cheveux humains

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Publication number
EP4398991A1
EP4398991A1 EP22761957.4A EP22761957A EP4398991A1 EP 4398991 A1 EP4398991 A1 EP 4398991A1 EP 22761957 A EP22761957 A EP 22761957A EP 4398991 A1 EP4398991 A1 EP 4398991A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
colored
group
pigments
amino
agent
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22761957.4A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Constanze KRUCK
Gabriele Weser
Sandra Hilbig
Melanie Moch
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP4398991A1 publication Critical patent/EP4398991A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the subject of the present application is a method for improving the feel of keratin fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, with an aftertreatment agent being applied to the colored keratin material which contains at least one sebum-adsorbing substance.
  • a second subject of this application is a method for dyeing and after-treating keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which first a dye containing at least one aminosilicone and at least one pigment is used, and then the after-treatment agent described above is applied.
  • a third subject matter of the present application is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) which contains the colorant and aftertreatment agent described above in separately prepared containers.
  • a fourth subject matter of the present application is the use of the aftertreatment agent described above to improve the feel of colored keratin fibers.
  • Oxidation colorants are usually used for permanent, intensive colorations with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which form the actual dyes among themselves under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation coloring agents are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
  • Coloring with pigments offers several significant advantages. Since the pigments only attach themselves to the keratin fibers, in particular to the hair fibers, from the outside, the damage associated with the coloring process is particularly low. Furthermore, colorations that are no longer desired can be removed quickly and easily without leaving any residue and in this way offer the user the opportunity to return to their original hair color immediately and without great effort. This coloring process is therefore particularly attractive, particularly for consumers who do not want to have their hair regularly recolored.
  • the pigment-based coloring system still has some disadvantages. Since both the pigments and the aminosilicones, which immobilize the pigments, are deposited on the surface of the hair fiber, its surface structure is modified by the formation of a film. Depending on the thickness of the film formed, a change in the haptic impression of the hair fibers can also be associated with this modification ranging from the feeling of having weighed down or greasy hair to a rough, shaggy or straw-like hair feel.
  • a technology was sought that would make it possible to fix colored pigments on the hair as permanently as possible without the hair feeling weighed down, greasy, unnatural, straw-like or coated.
  • a special focus of the task was to achieve intensive, wash-fast color results with good hair feel at the same time.
  • the aftertreatment agent is characterized in that it contains at least one sebum-adsorbing substance.
  • a first object of the present invention is a method for improving the feel of keratin fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, wherein an aftertreatment agent is applied to the colored keratin fibers that
  • (N-1) contains at least one sebum adsorbing substance.
  • This is in particular a method for improving the feel of human hair that has been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, with an aftertreatment agent being applied to the colored hair
  • (N-1) contains at least one sebum adsorbing substance.
  • the sebum-adsorbing substances contained in the after-treatment agent can adsorb or absorb not only the sebum naturally occurring on the scalp, but also the excess proportion of aminosilicones.
  • the sebum-adsorbing substances are able to reduce the greasy feel of the hair without disproportionately removing the film of aminosilicone and pigments necessary for intensive coloring.
  • the sebum-adsorbing substances can absorb the excess amounts of aminosilicone without, however, affecting the integrity of the film consisting of pigment and aminosilicone.
  • Keratin fibers mean hair, wool and fur. Keratin fibers are preferably understood to mean hair, in particular human hair.
  • the term “coloring agent” is used for a coloring of the keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, caused by the use of pigments. With this coloring, the pigments are embedded in a film of amino silicones as coloring compounds on the surface of the keratin fibers.
  • the terms keratinic fibers and keratin fibers are used synonymously within the meaning of the invention.
  • An improvement in the feel is understood to mean that the colored keratin fibers, in particular human hair, leave a more natural and softer impression when gripped in the hair, and that the colored keratin fibers or the colored hair are less complained, greasy, oily, unnatural, straw-like , rough or coated to the touch.
  • the touch is a sensory impression that can be felt, for example, by experienced people such as hairdressers.
  • the improvement in the feel of a strand of hair can be determined, for example, by a hairdresser or an experienced user by feeling or feeling two different strands and thus comparing which of the two strands feels better. ie which of the two strands makes a less greasy, oily, coated, rough or strawy impression.
  • amino-functionalized silicone polymer in colorant can be determined, for example, by a hairdresser or an experienced user by feeling or feeling two different strands and thus comparing which of the two strands feels better. ie which of the two strands makes a less greasy, oily, coated, rough or strawy impression.
  • the post-treatment agent used in the method according to the invention showed a particularly strong effect when a combination of pigments with aminosilicones was used to color the keratin material or the keratin fibers.
  • the amino-functionalized silicone polymer may alternatively be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.
  • Silicone polymers are generally macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 500 g/mol, preferably at least 1000 g/mol, more preferably at least 2500 g/mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g/mol, which comprise repeating organic units.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerisation (number of polymerised monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerisation method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is not more than 10 7 g/mol, preferably not more than 10 g/mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g/mol.
  • the silicone polymers comprise many Si-O repeat units, where the Si atoms can carry organic radicals such as alkyl groups or substituted alkyl groups.
  • a silicone polymer is therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.
  • these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeat units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeat units and more preferably more than 100 Si-O repeat units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeat units .
  • An amino-functionalized silicone polymer is understood to mean a functionalized silicone that carries at least one structural unit with an amino group.
  • the amino-functionalized silicone polymer preferably carries a plurality of structural units each having at least one amino group.
  • An amino group means a primary amino group, a secondary amino group and a tertiary amino group. All of these amino groups can be pro ned in an acidic environment and are then in their cationic form. In principle, good coloring performance could be achieved with amino-functionalized silicone polymers if these carry at least one primary, at least one secondary and/or at least one tertiary amino group. However, intensive dyeings with the best fastness to washing were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer containing at least one secondary amino group was used on average.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer having at least one secondary amino group.
  • the secondary amino group(s) can be located at various positions of the amino-functionalized silicone polymer. Very particularly good color results were obtained when an amino-functionalized silicone polymer was used that has at least one, preferably more, structural units of the formula (Si-amino).
  • ALK1 and ALK2 independently stand for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-amino), whereby
  • ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.
  • the positions marked with an asterisk (*) each indicate the bond to other structural units of the silicone polymer.
  • the silicon atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the star can be bonded to another silicon atom or else to a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group.
  • a divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group can also be referred to as a divalent or divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group, which means that each group ALK1 or AK2 can form two bonds.
  • one bond is from the silicon atom to the ALK1 moiety, and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
  • one bond is from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 moiety and the second bond is between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
  • Examples of a linear divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) and the butylene group (-CH2- CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred.
  • divalent alkylene groups can also be branched.
  • Examples of branched, divalent C3-C2o-alkylene groups are (-CH2-CH(CH3)-) and (-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-).
  • the structural units of the formula (Si-amino) represent repeating units in the amino-functionalized silicone polymer, so that the silicone polymer comprises a plurality of structural units of the formula (Si-amino).
  • Particularly suitable amino-functionalized silicone polymers with at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
  • Colorings with the very best wash fastness could be obtained if at least one agent containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer containing structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II) was applied to the keratin material during the previous coloring
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer which has structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si- II) includes
  • a corresponding amino-functionalized silicone polymer with the structural units (Si-I) and (Sill) is, for example, the commercial product DC 2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which is sold commercially by the Dow Chemical Company and which bears the name "Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane” and the CAS number 106842-44-8.
  • Another particularly preferred commercial product is Dowsil AP-8658 Amino Fluid, which is also commercially available from the Dow Chemical Company.
  • the post-treatment agent can also be used on keratin fibers which have previously been colored by using a coloring agent which contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-III), where m and n are numbers chosen such that the sum (n + m) is in the range from 1 to 1000, n is a number in the range 0 to 999 and m is a number in the range 1 to 1000,
  • a coloring agent to the keratin fibers, the coloring agent containing at least amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-IV), where p and q are numbers chosen such that the sum (p + q) is in the range 1 to 1000, p is a number in the range 0 to 999 and q is a number in the range 1 to 1000 ,
  • R1 and R2 which are different, represent a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, at least one of the groups R1 to R2 representing a hydroxy group.
  • the silicones of the formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the grouping on the Si atom which carries the nitrogen-containing group:
  • R2 denotes a hydroxy group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the residue in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group.
  • A represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH , -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
  • D is a group -H, -Si( CH3 ) 3 , -Si( CH3 )2OH, -Si( CH3 ) 2OCH3 , b, n and c are integers between 0 and 1000, with the provisos
  • the individual siloxane units with the indices b, c and n are randomly distributed, i.e. they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
  • the colorant applied beforehand can also contain one or more different amino-functionalized silicone polymers which are represented by the formula (Si-VI)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical with 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, where R 1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon-, hydrogen - and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic amino-functional residue containing at least one amino-functional group;
  • "a” takes values in the range from about 0 to about 2
  • "b” takes values in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • "a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )C(O)OCH 2 -, -(CH 2 ) 3 CC(O)OCH 2 CH 2 -, - C6H4C6H4- , -C6H4CH2C6H4- ; and -(CH 2 ) 3 C(O)SCH 2 CH 2 - a.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional residue containing at least one amino functional group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 ) Z NH 2 where z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZNH , where both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure includes diamino ring structures such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 group.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -N(CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) ZZ NX 2 or -NX 2 where each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and z is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar amine functional group of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” takes values ranging from about 0 to about 2
  • "b” takes values ranging from about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + "b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c " is a number ranging from about 1 to about 3.
  • the molar ratio of R a Qb SiO(4- a -b)/2 units to R c SiO(4- C )/2 units is in the range of from about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • the various variable substituents in the above formula may vary with the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratin fibers, the coloring agent being an amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VII)
  • - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, n preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably having values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10 assumes
  • R' is a monovalent radical selected from o -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N(R") 2 o -QN(R") 2 o -QN + (R") 3 A- o - QN + H(R") 2 A- o -QN + H 2 (R")A- o -QN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R"H 2 A- , where each Q represents a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C(CH 3 ) 2 - , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C( CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 2 -,
  • R" are identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )Ph, the Ci- 2 o-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - CH2 CH2 CH3 , -CH( CH3 ) 2 , -CH2 CH2 CH2 H3 , -CH2 CH(CH3 ) 2 , -CH( CH3 ) CH2 CH3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratin fibers, the coloring agent containing at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-Vlla),
  • m and n are numbers whose sum (m+n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, n preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • these silicones are referred to as trimethylsilyl amodimethicone.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized by the prior application of a coloring agent to the keratin Fibers, wherein the colorant contains at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VI Ib).
  • n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where the sum (n1+n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • these amino-functionalized silicone polymers are referred to as amodimethicones.
  • colorants according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone polymer whose amine number is above 0.25 meq/g, preferably above 0.3 meq/g and in particular above 0.4 meq/g are preferred lies.
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also given in units of mg KOH/g.
  • Colorants which contain a special 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone polymer are also suitable for use in the process according to the invention.
  • This amino-functionalized silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formulas (Sl-VIII) and the formula (Si-
  • Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsesquioxane Copolymer is known and in the form of raw material
  • a silicone which has structural units of the formulas (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can, for example, be used as the 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone in which
  • R1 is -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 ;
  • R2 is -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3 .
  • Particularly preferred colorants contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-XI)
  • R1 is -CH 3 , -OH, -OCH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 ;
  • R2 is -CH 3 , -OH, or -OCH 3 .
  • B represents a group -OH, -O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 , -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH , -O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3
  • D is a group -H, -Si(CH3)3, -Si(CH3) 2 OH, -Si(CH3) 2 OCH3,
  • Structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to make it clear that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be bonded directly to an end group B or D, respectively. Rather, in preferred formulas (Si-VI) a > 0 or b > 0 and in particularly preferred formulas (Si-VI) a > 0 and c > 0, i.e. the terminal group B or D is preferably attached to a dimethylsiloxy group bound. In formula (Si-VI) too, the siloxane units a, b, c, m and n are preferably randomly distributed.
  • particularly preferably used silicones are selected from silicones in which
  • one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers can be used, for example in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0 .3 to 3.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight.
  • the quantities are based on the total amount of all aminosilicones used, which is related to the total weight of the colorant.
  • the impression of greasy, weighed down or oily hair also depends on the amount of amino silicone used.
  • the use of the aftertreatment agent according to the invention showed a particularly strong improvement in Hair feel when a very high proportion by weight of amino silicones was used in the previous application of the colorant.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant - based on the total weight of the colorant - one or more amino-functionalized silicone polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 8.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.4 up to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.0 to 3.5% by weight.
  • an aftertreatment agent is applied to keratin fibers which have previously been colored by using at least one pigment.
  • pigments are understood to mean coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25° C. of less than 0.5 g/l, preferably less than 0.1 g/l, even more preferably less than 0. Possess 05 g/L.
  • the water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed out in a glass beaker. A stir bar is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C with stirring on a magnetic stirrer for one hour. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L.
  • the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L.
  • Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and/or organic origin.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the after-treatment agent is applied to keratin material which has been colored by using at least one inorganic and/or organic pigment.
  • Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt terra di sienna or graphite, for example.
  • black pigments such as B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such.
  • B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.
  • Colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides and metal oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and/or metal molybdates are particularly suitable.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI77289 ), Iron Blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and/or Carmine (Cochineal).
  • Colored pigments which are also particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and/or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, mainly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • synthetic mica optionally coated with one or more metal oxide(s) can also be used as pearlescent pigment.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one inorganic pigment, the inorganic pigment preferably being selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates , metal sulphides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulphates, bronze pigments and/or mica or mica based colored pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and/or one metal oxychloride.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the after-treatment agent is applied to keratin fibers which have been colored by applying at least one pigment selected from mica-based or mica-based pigments containing one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499), Yellow Iron Oxide (CI 77492), Red and/or Brown Iron Oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Ultramarines (Sodium Aluminum Sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and/or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510).
  • the after-treatment agent is applied to keratin fibers which have been colored by applying at least one pigment selected from mica-based or mica-based pigments containing one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891
  • color pigments are commercially available, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dicrona® and Timiron® from the company Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
  • Colorona® Very particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
  • color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:
  • the colorant applied beforehand can also contain one or more organic pigments.
  • the organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble organic dyes or lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene - , diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and/or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.
  • Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratin fibers which have been colored by using at least one organic pigment, the organic pigment preferably being selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone and phthalocyanine , sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI
  • the organic pigment preferably
  • the organic pigment can also be a colored lake.
  • the term colored lake is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of adsorbed dyes, the particle-dye unit being insoluble under the above conditions.
  • the particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or aluminum.
  • Alizarin color lake for example, can be used as the color lake.
  • Pigments with a specific shape may also have been used to color the keratin fibers.
  • a pigment based on a lamellar and/or a lenticular substrate flake can be used.
  • coloring based on a small substrate plate comprising a vacuum-metallized pigment is also possible.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the post-treatment agent is applied to keratin fibers which have been metallized by using at least one pigment from the group consisting of pigments based on a lamellar substrate plate, pigments based on a lenticular substrate plate and vacuum pigments were colored.
  • the substrate flakes of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm.
  • the average thickness of the substrate flakes is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm.
  • Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate flakes are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50nm; 2.5 to 30nm, 5 to 30nm, 10 to 30nm; 2.5 to 25nm, 5 to 25nm, 10 to 25nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm.
  • Each substrate plate preferably has a thickness which is as uniform as possible.
  • the pigment Due to the small thickness of the substrate flakes, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.
  • the substrate flakes preferably have a monolithic structure.
  • monolithic means consisting of a single, self-contained unit without fractures, layers or inclusions, although structural changes can occur within the substrate platelets.
  • the substrate flakes are preferably of homogeneous structure, i.e. there is no concentration gradient within the flakes. In particular, the substrate flakes are not built up in layers and have no particles or particles distributed therein.
  • the size of the small substrate can be adjusted to the respective application, in particular the desired effect on the keratin material.
  • the substrate flakes have an average largest diameter of about 2 to 200 ⁇ m, in particular about 5 to 100 ⁇ m.
  • the form factor (aspect ratio), expressed as the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750.
  • the mean size of the uncoated substrate flakes is the d50 value of the uncoated substrate flakes. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Heios device with Quixel wet dispersion. To prepare the sample, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.
  • the substrate flakes can be constructed from any material that can be formed into flake form.
  • the substrate flakes can be of natural origin, but also produced synthetically.
  • Materials from which the substrate flakes can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi)precious stones, and plastics.
  • the substrate flakes are preferably constructed from metal (alloys).
  • metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be used as the metal.
  • metals include iron and steel, as well as all air and water-resistant (semi)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronzes and brass.
  • Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold.
  • Preferred substrate flakes are aluminum flakes and brass flakes, with aluminum substrate flakes being particularly preferred.
  • Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as "cornflakes" because of their appearance.
  • pigments based on lamellar substrate flakes Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate flakes generate a high proportion of scattered light. In addition, the pigments based on lamellar substrate flakes do not completely cover the existing color of a keratinic material and, for example, effects analogous to natural graying can be achieved.
  • Vacuum metallized pigments can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are distinguished by a particularly low thickness of the substrate flakes in the range from 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity.
  • substrate flakes which comprise a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to as VMP substrate flakes.
  • Aluminum VMP substrate flakes can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.
  • the substrate flakes made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.
  • Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and/or VPM substrate flakes in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a large extent and produce a light-dark flop. These have proven to be particularly preferred for use in the colorant.
  • Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate flake include, for example, the pigments from Eckart's VISIONAIRE series.
  • Pigments based on a lenticular substrate flake are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Spotify from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
  • Pigments based on a substrate flake, which comprises a vacuum-metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
  • the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agent is very particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of from 1.0 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably from 5.0 to 45 ⁇ m, preferably from 10 to 40 ⁇ m, in particular from 14 to 30 ⁇ m.
  • the mean particle size D50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
  • one or more pigments can, for example, be present in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0. 2 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1.5% by weight.
  • the quantities are based on the total amount of all pigments used, which is related to the total weight of the colorant.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one colorant which - based on the total weight of the colorant - one or more pigments in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 1%, contains 5% by weight.
  • the colorants could additionally also contain one or more substantive dyes.
  • Direct dyes are dyes that are applied directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 0.5 g/l and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 1.0 g/l.
  • Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic direct dyes.
  • a colorant according to the invention can be characterized in that it additionally contains at least one color-providing compound from the group of anionic, nonionic and cationic direct dyes.
  • Suitable cationic direct dyes are Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347/Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76.
  • nonionic direct dyes which can be used are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic direct dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol , 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyeth
  • Anionic direct dyes are also referred to as acid dyes.
  • Acid dyes are understood as meaning direct dyes which have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and/or one sulfonic acid group (-SO3H).
  • -COOH carboxylic acid group
  • -SO3H sulfonic acid group
  • the pro ned forms (-COOH, -SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -SOs).
  • the proportion of profaned forms increases.
  • Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and/or their potassium salts.
  • the acid dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 0.5 g/l and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • Preferred the acid dyes in the context of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 1.0 g/l.
  • alkaline earth metal salts such as, for example, calcium salts and magnesium salts
  • aluminum salts of acid dyes often have poorer solubility than the corresponding alkali metal salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g/L (25 °C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a substantive dye.
  • An essential feature of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, with the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this usually being linked to different chromophoric systems.
  • Suitable chromophoric systems are found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and/or indophenol dyes.
  • an agent for coloring keratinic material can be characterized in that it contains at least one anionic direct dye selected from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene Dyes, the rhodamine dyes, the oxazine dyes and/or the indophenol dyes, the dyes from the aforementioned group each having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), a sodium carboxylate group (-COONa), a potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), a sulfonic acid group ( - SO3H) have a sodium sulfonate group (-SOsNa) and/or a potassium sulfonate group (-SO3K).
  • anionic direct dye selected from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes
  • Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n° : C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (C1 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (C1 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29 , Covacap Jaune W 1 100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No.
  • Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n° : C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (C1 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (C1 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA
  • Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690 ), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C015), Acid Orange 10 (Cl 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (Cl 45370), Acid Orange 15 (Cl 50120), Acid Orange 20 (Cl 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1 ;CI 20170;KATSU201 ;nosodium salt;Brown No.201 ;RESORCIN BROWN;ACID ORANGE 24;Japan Brown 201; D & C Brown No.
  • Acid Red 14 (Cl14720), Ac id Red 18 (E124, Red 18; Cl 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, Cl 16185, C-Red 46, Fast Red D, FD&C Red No.2, Food Red 9, Naphthol Red S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33, Cl 17200), Acid Red 35 (Cl Cl18065), Acid Red 51 (Cl 45430, Pyrosine B, Tetraiodofluorescein, Eosin J, lodeosine), Acid Red 52 (Cl 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red n° 106 Pontacyl Brilliant Pink), Acid Red 73 (Cl Cl 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, Cl 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n° C53, Cl 45410), Acid Red 95 (Cl 45425, Erythtosine.Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 95 (
  • Acid Green 50 (Brilliant Acid Green BS, Cl 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, Cl 20 470, COLIPA n° B15), Acid Blac k 52 (Cl 15711), Food Yellow 8 (Cl 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11 , D&C Red 21 , D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and/or D&C Brown 1 .
  • the water solubility of the anionic direct dyes can be determined, for example, in the following way. 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye are placed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then 100 ml of water are added. This mixture is heated to 25°C on a magnetic stirrer with stirring. Stir for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If there are still undissolved residues, the amount of water is increased - for example in steps of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved dyes remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated with a larger amount of water. If 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25° C., the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g/L.
  • Acid Yellow 1 is named 8-Hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g/L (25°C).
  • Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and sulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g/L (25 °C) .
  • Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g/L (25 °C).
  • Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1 H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is good at 25°C soluble in water.
  • Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its water solubility is more than 7 g/L (25 °C).
  • Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high water solubility of more than 20% by weight. %.
  • Acid Red 33 is the diantrium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g/L (25 °C).
  • Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, its water solubility specified as greater than 10 g/L (25 °C).
  • Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-( ⁇ 4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)amino]phenyl ⁇ 4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1- ylidene ⁇ methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20% by weight (25 °C).
  • a method according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the post-treatment agent is applied to keratinic fibers which have been colored by using at least one coloring agent which contains at least one direct coloring agent selected from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1 , Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121 , Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11 , Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51 , Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Aci d Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C
  • the direct dye(s) can be used in different amounts in the colorant. Good results could be obtained if the colorant - based on the total weight of the colorant - one or more direct dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0 wt .-%. %, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
  • the agent can also contain a coloring compound from the group of photochromic or thermochromic dyes as an additional optional component.
  • Photochromic dyes are dyes that respond to exposure to UV light (sunlight or black light) with a reversible change in hue.
  • the UV light changes the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (photochromism).
  • Thermochromic dyes are dyes that respond to temperature changes with a reversible change in hue. The change in temperature changes the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (thermochromism).
  • the colorant can - based on the total weight of the colorant - one or more photochromic and / or thermochromic dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 8.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 6.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
  • an aftertreatment agent is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular to human hair, which have been dyed as described above.
  • a significant improvement in the feel of the hair is associated with this use of the aftertreatment agent.
  • the timing at which the after-treatment agent is applied depends on the needs of the user and can be adjusted to suit their habits.
  • the aftertreatment agent can be applied to wet or dry hair that has been colored the day before.
  • the premise is that the after-treatment agent is applied to colored keratin material, which means that the keratin material must still be colored by the application of the pigments.
  • the coloring and the after-treatment are carried out as part of a single coloring-after-treatment process, so that a maximum period of a few hours is preferred between the coloring of the keratin fibers and the time at which the after-treatment agent is applied of a maximum of 2 hours.
  • a characteristic of the aftertreatment agent according to the invention is its content of at least one sebum-adsorbing substance (N-1).
  • the sebum adsorbing substance may also be referred to as a sebum adsorbing substance.
  • a sebum-adsorbing substance is a compound which is capable of adsorbing, ie absorbing, the sebum or talc produced on the human scalp. Here, the sebum accumulates on the surface or inside this substance.
  • sebum-adsorbing substances are often described as active ingredients in dry shampoos.
  • the sebum-adsorbing substances can be used in various forms in the aftertreatment agent according to the invention. Use as a sebum or tallow-adsorbing powder has proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • Whether a powder is sebum adsorbing can be determined, for example, by the sebum absorption capacity of this powder.
  • the sebum/tallow absorption corresponds to the amount of tallow adsorbed by the powder. It is expressed in ml of tallow per 100 g of powder, measured using a method for determining the oil absorption of powders, such as that described in various standards known in the art.
  • the oil absorption of the powder corresponds to the amount of sebum adsorbed on the available surface area of the powder, which can be determined, for example, by measuring the "wet point" according to the following measurement method.
  • a quantity m (in grams) of powder is placed on a glass plate, the quantity depending on the density of the powder. Then artificial tallow is added drop by drop, which consists of
  • triolein 28.5% by weight oleic acid, 18.5% by weight oleyl oleate, 14% by weight squalene, 7% by weight cholesterol and 3% by weight cholesterol palmitate.
  • the artificial sebum After adding 4 to 5 drops of the artificial sebum, it is worked into the powder with a spatula and the addition of artificial sebum is continued until a conglomerate of artificial sebum and powder is formed. From this point on, the artificial tallow is added drop by drop and the mixture is then mixed with the spatula. The addition of artificial tallow is stopped when a firm, smooth paste has formed. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracks, i.e.
  • the volume of artificial sebum required for this process in ml is noted and converted into the corresponding sebum intake or sebum intake of the unit ml/100 g.
  • sebum adsorbing powders are capable of absorbing at least 35 ml/100 g of sebum.
  • sebum-adsorbing substance(s) in the form of a powder, it has been found to be expedient to reduce the water content of the aftertreatment agent to a maximum of 10% by weight.
  • the post-treatment agent used in the method according to the invention is characterized in that it - based on the total weight of the post-treatment agent - has a water content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent - based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent - has a water content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and
  • (N-1) contains at least one sebum adsorbing powder.
  • the sebum or sebum absorbing powder can be, for example, a mineral powder or an organic powder.
  • a powder is a mixture of small particles that are solid at 25°C and normal pressure (1013 mbar).
  • the sebum adsorbing substance or the sebum adsorbing powder can be selected from:
  • starches such as starch flour
  • starch octenylsuccinates and in particular aluminum starch octenylsuccinates, or starch phosphates such as distarch phosphate,
  • Acrylic polymer powders in particular polymethyl methacrylate, poly(methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), poly(allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, - elastomeric silicone powders, and mixtures thereof.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent
  • N-1 contains at least one sebum adsorbing substance selected from the group consisting of starches, modified starches, talc, silicic acids, silica, calcium silicates, perlites, zeolites, polylactic acids, polyamide powders and acrylic polymer powders.
  • the sebum absorbing powder may also be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treating agent.
  • the hydrophobic treating agent can be selected from the group of fatty acids such as stearic acid, metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, amino acids such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; Amino acids ; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.
  • N-acylated amino acids can contain an acyl group with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, e.g. 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl.
  • the salts of these compounds can be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • Starch is a reserve carbohydrate that is stored by many plants in the form of starch grains (granules) usually 1 to 200 ⁇ m in size in various parts of plants, e.g. in tubers or roots, grain seeds, fruits and in the marrow.
  • Starch belongs to the homoglycan family and is a polycondensation product of D-glucose.
  • Starch consists of three structurally different polymers of d-glucopyranose, namely amylose, amylopectin and what is known as an intermediate fraction.
  • a starch compound that can preferably be used according to the invention is selected from at least one - optionally modified - polycondensation product of D-glucose obtained from starch from rice, corn, potatoes, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, rye , beans, batata, Maranta or cassava.
  • the post-treatment agent according to the invention particularly preferably contains at least one starch compound (N-1) from the group consisting of rice starch, corn starch, potato starch and tapioca starch. Mixtures of the aforementioned starch compounds are also included according to the invention.
  • the starch compound is rice starch.
  • Starch compounds based on rice starch are available, for example, under the name Remy DR KA (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, CAS number 9005-25-8) from Bene O Remy Industries or under the name Rice Starch DSA 7 (INCI name: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Cetrimonium Chloride; CAS number 9005-25-8 ) available from Agrana.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent
  • (N-1) at least one sebum-adsorbing substance from the group consisting of starches from rice, corn, potatoes, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, rye, beans, batata, Maranta or manioc, most preferably from the group consisting of rice starch, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch and manioc starch.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the aftertreatment agent--based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent--has a water content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, and
  • (N-1) at least one sebum adsorbing powder from the group consisting of starches from rice, corn, potatoes, peas, acorns, chestnuts, barley, wheat, bananas, sago, millet, sorghum, oats, rye, beans, batata, Maranta or manioc, most preferably from the group consisting of rice starch, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, wheat starch and manioc starch.
  • a modified starch can also be used as the starch.
  • a modified starch is a starch that has been modified by a process known to those skilled in the art, such as esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion.
  • Non-limiting examples of modified starches are aluminum starch octenyl succinate, sodium starch octenyl succinate, sodium starch octenyl succinate, calcium starch octenyl succinate, starch phosphate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium glycolate starch.
  • the modified starch is a starch octenyl succinate, in particular aluminum starch octenyl succinate.
  • Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate is an octenyl succinic anhydride modified starch that is in the form of its aluminum salt.
  • Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate carries the CAS no. 9087-61-0 and is commercially available, for example, under the trade name Covafluid AMD from Sensient. The product sold commercially by AKZO NOBEL under the name DRY FLO PLUS also deserves special mention.
  • Starch phosphates are derivatives of starch that belong to the starch esters. Monostarch phosphate is designated E 1410 and distarch phosphate is designated E 1412. Starch phosphate is produced by reacting starch with monosodium orthophosphate or disodium orthophosphate in a polymer-analogous reaction.
  • the bond is preferably formed at the Ce atom of the glucose building block.
  • This compound is formed, for example, by treating starch with monosodium orthophosphate or disodium orthophosphate or alkali metal tripolyphosphates at pH 5.5-6 and 120-175° C. for 1-15 hours.
  • distarch phosphate In the case of distarch phosphate, the phosphate group forms a bridge between two starch chains. It is produced by reacting native starch in an aqueous suspension with sodium trimetaphosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or phosphorus pentachloride in the presence of sodium chloride, sodium carbonate or sodium hydroxide at pH 10-11. After the reaction has ended, the pH is adjusted to between 4.5-6, and the product is then washed with water and dried or converted into pregelatinized starch. The degree of substitution for distarch phosphate is about a power of ten lower than for starch monophosphate. Distarch phosphate has the INCI label Distarch Phosphate and has the CAS number 55963-33-2.
  • Distarch phosphate can be obtained commercially, for example, under the trade name PB 2000 from Nippon Starch Chemical.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the post-treatment agent
  • (N-1) contains at least one sebum-adsorbing substance from the group of modified starches, preferably from the group of aluminum, starch octenyl succinate and starch phosphates.
  • talc talc
  • talc talc
  • talc preferably talc with the INCI designation Tale, E553b.
  • Talcum is a natural, widespread magnesium silicate Mg3[(OH)2/Si4Gio] or 3MgO 4SiO2 H2O, which belongs to the three-layer (2:1) phyllosilicates, whose denser aggregates are called soapstone.
  • sebum-adsorbing substances according to the invention can be selected from the group of silicic acids. Both hydrophilic silicic acids and hydrophobic silicic acids can be used here.
  • hydrophobic silica It is particularly preferred to use mixtures of at least one hydrophilic silica and at least one hydrophobic silica. It is particularly preferred if the hydrophobic silicic acid(s) is present in excess of the hydrophilic silicic acid(s). Preference is given to hydrophobic:hydrophilic weight ratios of from 0:1 to 10:1, preferably from 2:1 to 6:1, particularly preferably from 3:1 to 4:1.
  • Hydrophilic silicas used according to the invention are easily wettable with water.
  • Preferred hydrophilic silicas are hydrophilic pyrogenic silicas, in particular the non-alkylated commercial products of the Aerosil® series from Evonik Degussa, in particular Aerosil®-130, Aerosil®-150, Aerosil®-200, Aerosil®-300, Aerosil®-380, and also Cabot's Cab-O-Sil series products, specifically Cab-O-Sil HS-5.
  • a suitable hydrogenated silica is also commercially available from Evonik under the trade name Sipernat 22S. This raw material is described as amorphous silica and has the CAS number 7631-86-9 or 112926-00-8.
  • Hydrophobic silicas used according to the invention are alkyl-modified at least on the surface of the silica particles. They preferably contain hydrophobic groups on the surface, such as (CHs Si-O-
  • hydrophobic silicas are hydrophobic pyrogenic silicas, in particular the alkylated commercial products of the Aerosil® series from Evonik Degussa, in particular Aerosil®-R202, Aerosil®-R805, Aerosil®-R812, Aerosil®-R972 and Aerosil®-R976, as well as products Cabot's Cab-O-Sil TS series, specifically Cab-O-Sil TS-530.
  • hydrophobic silicas are silica silylate and silica dimethyl silylate. Also particularly preferred is Aerosil®-R972, which has a BET surface area of about 110 m 2 /g and about 70% of the surface area is occupied by methylated hydroxyl groups.
  • Another sebum adsorbing substance according to the invention is perlite.
  • a volcanic glass (obsidian) is called perlite.
  • Important properties of zeolites are their framework and pore structure as well as the acid centers and mobile ions integrated into the framework.
  • the crystal lattice of the zeolite is made up of SiO4 and AIO4 tetrahedrons, which are linked to one another via oxygen bridges and form rings or prisms. These in turn combine to form further secondary building units (SBU), each of which can contain up to 16 Si or Al atoms, resulting in a large variety of structures. This creates a spatial arrangement of cavities of the same construction, which are accessible via windows (pore openings) or three-dimensional channel systems.
  • SBU secondary building units
  • the stoichiometric ratio of Si to Al (modulus) is an important characteristic of zeolites. Since, according to the so-called Löwenstein rule, only SiOAl or SiOSi bridges, but never AIOAI bridges, are permitted in the zeolite lattice, the modulus never falls below 1. With each replacement of a Si 4+ by an Al 3+ ion, a localized negative charge is introduced into the crystal lattice.
  • the zeolite minerals were created by hydrothermal transformation of volcanic glasses or deposits containing tuff. According to their crystal lattice, the natural zeolites can be divided into
  • the synthetic zeolites are divided into narrow, medium and wide pore types according to pore sizes.
  • sebum-adsorbing substances according to the invention can be selected from the group of polylactic acids.
  • Polylactic acid also known as polylactide or PLA, is a name for biodegradable polymers (polyesters) that are primarily accessible through the ionic polymerization of lactide, a ring-shaped combination of two lactic acid molecules.
  • Ring-opening polymerization takes place at temperatures between 140 and 180 °C and under the influence of catalytic tin compounds (e.g. tin oxide). This is how plastics with a high molecular mass and strength are produced. Lactide itself can be produced by fermenting molasses or by fermenting glucose with the help of various bacteria. In addition, high-molecular and pure polylactides can be produced directly from lactic acid using what is known as polycondensation. In industrial production, however, the disposal of the solvent is problematic.
  • catalytic tin compounds e.g. tin oxide
  • Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) has an asymmetric carbon atom, so that polylactic acid also has optically active centers in the L(+) and D(-) configuration.
  • the ratio of L to D-monomer units determines the degree of crystallization, the melting point and the biodegradability of the polymers.
  • Polylactic acids suitable according to the invention are L-polylactic acid, D-polylactic acid and L/D-polylactic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the polylactic acid is preferably used in the form of particles or in the form of a powder in the aftertreatment agent according to the invention.
  • the molar mass of the polylactic acid suitable according to the invention is preferably 1000 to 1,000,000, preferably 10,000 to 300,000, more preferably 50,000 to 250,000 and in particular 100,000 to 180,000 daltons.
  • the polylactic acid is used in a form blended with fillers.
  • fillers Using larger amounts of filler helps break down the polymer into particles, increases biodegradability and internal surface area via porosity and capillarity.
  • Water-soluble fillers are particularly preferred here, for example metal chlorides such as NaCl, KCl, etc., metal carbonates such as Na2CO3, NaHCO3, etc., metal sulfates such as MgSO4.
  • Natural raw materials can also be used as fillers, for example nut shells, wood or bamboo fibers, starch, xanthan gum, alginates, dextran, agar, etc. These fillers are biodegradable and do not impair the good ecological properties of the polylactic acid particles.
  • Polylactic acid particles which are suitable according to the invention can be either spherical or irregular particles which have a certain circularity.
  • sebum-adsorbing substances according to the invention can be selected from the group of polyamides.
  • Polyamides are linear polymers with regularly repeating amide linkages along the main chain.
  • the amide group can be viewed as a condensation product of a carboxylic acid and an amide.
  • the resulting bond is an amide bond that can be hydrolytically cleaved again.
  • a suitable polyamide is, for example, nylon 6.6 polyamide with CAS number 32131-17-2, which is commercially available under the trade name Nylon Polyamide Fiber 0.1 inch from Cellusuede Products ( Pacific Coast Chemical).
  • the aftertreatment agent containing the sebum-adsorbing substances (N-1) is used in order to improve the feel of the keratin fibers dyed in the manner described above.
  • the aftertreatment agent can be packaged and used by the user in various ways, with the type of packaging determining both the proportion of sebum-adsorbing substances (N-1) in the aftertreatment agent and the content of other optional ingredients.
  • the formulation of the aftertreatment agent in the form of a spray, in particular an aerosol spray, has proven to be particularly well suited, since the sebum-adsorbing substance(s) (N-1) can be sprayed particularly uniformly onto the colored keratin fibers in this way.
  • one or more adsorbing substances (N-1) are preferably suspended in a solvent such as ethanol and sprayed onto the keratin fibers using a propellant.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that an aftertreatment agent is sprayed onto the dyed keratin fibers which--based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent--contains
  • Suitable propellants can be selected, for example, from the group of propane, propane/butane mixtures and dimethyl ether, in particular from the group of propane/butane mixtures.
  • propellants or propellants are nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1,1,1,3-tetrafluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, perfluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, both individually and in combination.
  • Hydrophilic propellants or propellants such as carbon dioxide, can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention when the proportion of hydrophilic gases is selected to be low and lipophilic propellant (z. B. propane / butane) is present in excess.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that an aftertreatment agent is sprayed onto the dyed keratin fibers which--based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent--contains
  • (N-1) 3.0 to 8% by weight of sebum-absorbing substance(s), preferably selected from the group consisting of starch and modified starches,
  • ingredients (N-1), (N-2) and (N-3) add up to a maximum of 100% by weight, with their added weight sum also reaching values below 100% by weight if other optional components are present. can sink.
  • the post-treatment agent itself was also made available in the form of a powder and was then sprinkled onto the keratin fibers or hair as a powder by the user or distributed onto the hair with the aid of a powder pump.
  • the administration form of the post-treatment agent in the form of a powder also places very few demands on the packaging, so that it can be designed to be particularly material-saving and sustainable.
  • the sebum-absorbing substance(s) (N-1) in higher proportions by weight, preferably in the range from 50.0 to 100.0 weight percent. %, preferably from 60.0 to 99.9% by weight, more preferably from 70.0 to 99.8% by weight and very particularly preferably from 80.0 to 99.7% by weight.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that a powdery aftertreatment agent is applied to the colored keratin fibers which--based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent--contains
  • (N-1) one or more sebum absorbing substances in a total amount of from 50.0 to 100.0% by weight, preferably from 60.0 to 99.9% by weight, more preferably from 70.0 to 99%, 8% by weight and most preferably from 80.0 to 99.7% by weight.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that a powdered aftertreatment agent which contains is applied to the colored keratin fibers
  • N-11 one or more sebum absorbing substances selected from the group consisting of starches and modified starches
  • N-12 one or more sebum absorbing substances selected from the group consisting of silicic acids and silica.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that a powdery aftertreatment agent is applied to the colored keratin fibers which--based on the total weight of the aftertreatment agent--contains
  • other optional ingredients in the aftertreatment agent are included in the aftertreatment agent.
  • the aftertreatment agent according to the invention can optionally also contain one or more other ingredients.
  • ingredients are, for example, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic and/or anionic surfactants, further solvents, anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and/or cationic polymers; structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, e.g.
  • lecithin and cephalins perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins; fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the agent; anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; amino acids and oligopeptides; Protein hydrolyzates based on animals and/or plants, and in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; sunscreens and UV blockers; Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannin
  • the person skilled in the art will select these further substances in accordance with the desired properties of the agents. With regard to other optional components and the amounts of these components used, express reference is made to the relevant handbooks known to those skilled in the art.
  • the additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective composition.
  • the point in time at which the after-treatment agent is applied to the dyed hair can be freely selected depending on the preferences of the user. It can be particularly convenient for the user to carry out the coloring of the hair and the application of the post-treatment agent in directly successive steps within one application process.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
  • step (1) of the method according to the invention a colorant containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and at least one pigment, in particular their preferred and particularly preferred representatives described above, is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the hair.
  • the previously applied colorant is allowed to act on the hair.
  • a major advantage of the coloring system according to the invention is that an intensive color result can be achieved even in very short periods of time after short exposure times. For this reason it is advantageous if the colorant only remains on the keratin material after its application for a comparatively short period of time of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes and particularly preferably 1 to 5 minutes.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized by
  • step (1) Effect of the colorant applied in step (1) on the keratin fibers for a period of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, and particularly preferably 1 to 5 minutes
  • the coloring agent After the coloring agent has acted on the keratin material, it is finally rinsed out with water in step (3).
  • the colorant is washed out with water only, i.e. without the aid of an aftertreatment agent not according to the invention or a shampoo.
  • the colored keratinic fibers can then be dried in step (4). Drying can be done, for example, by using a heating hood or a hair dryer. If the keratin fibers are dried, step (5) follows step (4). If the keratin fibers are not dried, then step (5) follows step (3).
  • step (5) This is followed by the application of the aftertreatment agent, in particular in its preferred and particularly preferred embodiments described above, in step (5).
  • the aftertreatment agent it has proven to be preferable for the aftertreatment agent to be applied to the hair within a maximum period of 5 hours, particularly preferably within a maximum period of 2 hours, after the colorant has been washed out.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized by
  • the post-treatment agent is particularly preferably applied to the dried or dry hair after step (4).
  • the aftertreatment agent can act on the keratin fibers in step (5), for example, for a period of 15 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably for a period of 30 seconds to 5 minutes.
  • the aftertreatment agent can be combed out of the keratin fibers in step (6) after step (5).
  • the sebum absorbent substances (N-1) removed from the keratin fibers again after absorbing the excess amounts of aminosilicone can be done with the help of a comb or a brush.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises as a further step
  • a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human hair comprising the following steps in the order given:
  • the user is preferably provided with all the means required in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts).
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing and after-treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising a first container made up separately from one another with a dye, the dye containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer and contains at least one pigment, as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, and a second container with an aftertreatment agent, the aftertreatment agent having already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention.
  • kit-of-parts for dyeing and after-treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing and after-treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising separately made up a first container with a first agent containing at least one amino-functionalized silicone polymer as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, and a second container with a second agent containing at least one pigment as already disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, and a third Container with an aftertreatment agent, as has already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention.
  • kit-of-parts for dyeing and after-treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair
  • a further subject of the present invention is the use of an aftertreatment agent, as has already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention, for improving the feel of colored keratin fibers, in particular colored human hair.
  • the colorant was applied to strands of hair and left to act for three minutes.
  • the strands of hair were then washed out thoroughly (1 minute) with water and then dried with a hair dryer.
  • the after-treatment composition was applied to the colored hair tress.
  • the aftertreatment agent in spray form was filled into a pressure vessel and sprayed onto the strand of hair.
  • the post-treatment agent in powder form was sprinkled onto the colored strand of hair and then worked into the strand of hair manually.
  • Aftertreatment with aftertreatment agents N1 and N2 was able to significantly improve the feel of all hair strands that had been colored with colorants F1 to F8.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé d'amélioration de la sensation tactile de fibres kératiniques colorées par l'application d'au moins un polymère de silicone à fonction amino et d'au moins un pigment, un agent de post-traitement étant appliqué sur les fibres de kératine colorées, ledit agent de post-traitement (N-1) contenant au moins une substance adsorbant le sébum.
EP22761957.4A 2021-09-08 2022-08-02 Procédé d'amélioration de la sensation tactile de fibres kératiniques colorées, en particulier des cheveux humains Pending EP4398991A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102021209926.2A DE102021209926A1 (de) 2021-09-08 2021-09-08 Verfahren zur Verbesserung des Griffgefühls von gefärbten keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren
PCT/EP2022/071657 WO2023036518A1 (fr) 2021-09-08 2022-08-02 Procédé d'amélioration de la sensation tactile de fibres kératiniques colorées, en particulier des cheveux humains

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MXPA04003009A (es) * 2001-10-03 2004-07-15 Procter & Gamble Champu que contiene un polimero cationico y particulas.
DE102017215328A1 (de) * 2017-09-01 2019-03-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Treibmittelhaltige kosmetische Zusammensetzungen mit Pigment-haltigen Stärkepartikeln und anionischem Polymer
DE102019218236A1 (de) * 2019-11-26 2021-05-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur Verbesserung des Griffgefühls von gefärbtem keratinischem Material, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren
DE102019218231A1 (de) * 2019-11-26 2021-05-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum Färben von keratinischem Material mit Aminosilikon, farbgebender Verbindung und phosphorhaltigem Tensid
DE102019218234A1 (de) * 2019-11-26 2021-05-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zum Färben von keratinischem Material mit Aminosilikon, Pigment und Polysaccharid
DE102020203096A1 (de) * 2020-03-11 2021-09-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung von einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, Alginsäure(salz), einer farbgebenden Verbindung und eines Nachbehandlungsmittels

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