WO2023163035A1 - オリゴエステル、及び該オリゴエステルを含有する化粧料 - Google Patents
オリゴエステル、及び該オリゴエステルを含有する化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023163035A1 WO2023163035A1 PCT/JP2023/006436 JP2023006436W WO2023163035A1 WO 2023163035 A1 WO2023163035 A1 WO 2023163035A1 JP 2023006436 W JP2023006436 W JP 2023006436W WO 2023163035 A1 WO2023163035 A1 WO 2023163035A1
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C69/00—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic or haloformic acids
- C07C69/34—Esters of acyclic saturated polycarboxylic acids having an esterified carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom
- C07C69/40—Succinic acid esters
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/0229—Sticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B43—WRITING OR DRAWING IMPLEMENTS; BUREAU ACCESSORIES
- B43K—IMPLEMENTS FOR WRITING OR DRAWING
- B43K19/00—Non-propelling pencils; Styles; Crayons; Chalks
- B43K19/04—Pencils with metallic writing-core
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C67/00—Preparation of carboxylic acid esters
- C07C67/08—Preparation of carboxylic acid esters by reacting carboxylic acids or symmetrical anhydrides with the hydroxy or O-metal group of organic compounds
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C69/00—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic or haloformic acids
- C07C69/02—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen
- C07C69/22—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety
- C07C69/30—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety esterified with trihydroxylic compounds
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09D—COATING COMPOSITIONS, e.g. PAINTS, VARNISHES OR LACQUERS; FILLING PASTES; CHEMICAL PAINT OR INK REMOVERS; INKS; CORRECTING FLUIDS; WOODSTAINS; PASTES OR SOLIDS FOR COLOURING OR PRINTING; USE OF MATERIALS THEREFOR
- C09D13/00—Pencil-leads; Crayon compositions; Chalk compositions
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C11—ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
- C11C—FATTY ACIDS FROM FATS, OILS OR WAXES; CANDLES; FATS, OILS OR FATTY ACIDS BY CHEMICAL MODIFICATION OF FATS, OILS, OR FATTY ACIDS OBTAINED THEREFROM
- C11C3/00—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom
- C11C3/02—Fats, oils, or fatty acids by chemical modification of fats, oils, or fatty acids obtained therefrom by esterification of fatty acids with glycerol
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
Definitions
- the present invention relates to an oligoester and a cosmetic containing the oligoester.
- This application claims priority based on Japanese Patent Application No. 2022-027108 filed in Japan on February 24, 2022, the content of which is incorporated herein.
- Cosmetics such as lip cosmetics, in addition to having a good makeup effect such as giving a glossy finish when applied to the skin, have excellent usability such as good spreadability on the skin, It is required to maintain the hardness at the time of preparation, and to achieve both good usability and shape retention over a long period of time.
- lip cosmetics represented by conventional lipsticks can be broadly divided into pigments or dyes that bring vivid color to the lips, wax that is solid at room temperature as an excipient component, and homogeneously dispersing or dissolving these components. It is further divided into oil agents that provide functionality such as feeling of use and gloss. For lip cosmetics, studies have been made to achieve both the shape-retaining property required for the product and a good feel during use by adjusting the mixing ratio of the wax and the liquid oil.
- Methods for improving shape retention and feeling during use include, for example, a technique for improving usability and high-temperature stability by combining a Fischer-Tropsch wax with a specific wax (Patent Document 1), an oil with a melting point of 75°C or higher, and a dimer.
- Patent Document 1 a technique for improving usability and high-temperature stability by combining a Fischer-Tropsch wax with a specific wax
- Patent Document 2 an oil with a melting point of 75°C or higher
- a dimer a dimer.
- Techniques for combining acids, N-long-chain acyl-modified amino acid diesters, and organic spherical powders (Patent Document 2) can be mentioned.
- these techniques are not satisfactory in terms of both shape retention and feeling of use.
- N-long-chain acyl-modified amino acid diesters have the problem of being expensive, although they require a considerable amount of compounding in order to bring out sufficient effects.
- the phytosterols it contains are also expensive, and
- An important factor required for lip cosmetics is the luster of the coating film.
- a method of increasing light reflection by blending an oil with a high refractive index or blending a pearl agent is used.
- a bleeding technique (Patent Document 3) is also in practical use, in which silicone oil, which is difficult to mix with lipstick oil, is added to the lip cosmetic, and the silicone oil oozes out onto the surface of the coating film to create a highly glossy layer.
- oligoesters have been used in cosmetics because of their moisturizing effect on the skin, high safety, and excellent pigment dispersibility.
- Typical oligoesters blended in cosmetics include oligoesters that dissolve in water and have a high moisturizing effect and a good feeling of use (Patent Document 4), and oligoesters that melt at around body temperature and prevent moisture from escaping from the skin surface.
- Patent Document 5 oligoesters that suppress oiliness and have a feeling of use with reduced oiliness
- oligoesters that function as gelling or solidifying agents for liquid oils
- Patent Document 7 a powder surface-treated with an oligoester, which has excellent usability and excellent pigment dispersibility
- Patent Document 8 a powder surface-treated with an oligoester, which has excellent usability and excellent pigment dispersibility
- Patent Document 8 a two-layer cosmetic containing (caprylic acid / capric acid / succinic acid) glyceryl
- water-holding oils are also used as liquid oils blended in cosmetics. Since water-holding oils have excellent moisturizing properties, it is expected that the moisturizing properties of cosmetics can be improved by blending them. (Patent Document 9). However, there was a problem that turbidity occurs due to holding moisture, and the gloss of the appearance deteriorates.
- the present invention provides an oligoester that has an effect of maintaining the hardness of oily solids, excellent wax solubility, low temperature stability, and pigment dispersibility, and has the effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contact with water, and its production.
- the purpose is to provide a method.
- Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic containing the oligoester, which has good storage stability and excellent stickiness and spreadability when applied to the skin.
- an oligoester obtained by an esterification reaction of glycerin, a divalent carboxylic acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms and a saturated fatty acid having 6 to 24 carbon atoms has excellent wax solubility, low temperature stability, and pigment dispersibility, is excellent in the effect of maintaining the hardness of oily solids, and has the effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contacting with water.
- the present invention relates to the following.
- An oligoester obtained by subjecting the following component (A), component (B), and component (C) to an esterification reaction The esterification reaction esterifies 0.65 to 0.8 mol of the component (B) and 1.2 to 1.7 mol of the component (C) with respect to 1 mol of the component (A).
- chemical reaction The oligoester has an acid value of 5 mgKOH/g or less, a saponification value of 420 to 510 mgKOH/g, and a hydroxyl value of 60 mgKOH/g or less.
- Component (C) one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isopalmitic acid, and isostearic acid.
- An oligoester obtained by subjecting the following component (A), component (B), component (C), and component (D) to an esterification reaction, In the esterification reaction, the total amount of the component (C) and the component (D) is 1.65 to 0.8 mol per 1 mol of the component (A).
- the oligoester has an acid value of 5 mgKOH/g or less, a saponification value of 420 to 510 mgKOH/g, and a hydroxyl value of 60 mgKOH/g or less.
- Component (C) one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isopalmitic acid, and isostearic acid.
- Component (D) One or more fatty acids selected from linear saturated fatty acids having 10 to 24 carbon atoms. [3] The oligoester of [2] above, wherein the component (D) is capric acid. [4] The oligoester according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the component (C) is caprylic acid. [5] The oligoester according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the component (B) is succinic acid.
- a hardness-maintaining agent comprising the oligoester according to any one of [1] to [5], which is an oily solid hardness-maintaining agent containing a wax that is solid at 25°C.
- the hardness of the oily solid is maintained by including the oligoester according to any one of [1] to [5] in the oily solid containing wax that is solid at 25°C.
- Method. A method for improving the gloss of a cosmetic application surface by incorporating the oligoester according to any one of [1] to [5] into the cosmetic. [19] The method for improving luster of [18], wherein the cosmetic is a lip cosmetic.
- the oligoester according to the present invention can maintain the hardness of oily solids over time, can stably produce oily solids due to its high wax solubility, has excellent low-temperature stability and pigment dispersibility, and can be brought into contact with water. This has the effect of improving the luster of the coated surface. Moreover, the present invention has high industrial value, as shown by the fact that it can be produced with a combination of inexpensive raw materials. Cosmetics containing the oligoester are excellent in cosmetic performance and stability.
- oily solid matter means a solid matter containing an oily component, and is non-fluid at normal temperature (15-25°C) and normal pressure.
- si-solid means that the material has viscoelasticity and shape retention, but can flow and be freely deformed when external force is applied. Semi-solid forms are classified into jelly, gel, paste, ointment and the like depending on viscosity and water content.
- the oligoester according to the present invention contains 0.65 to 0.8 mol of the following component (B) and 1.2 to 1.7 mol of the following component (C) per 1 mol of the following component (A). It is an oligoester obtained by esterifying the oligoester having an acid value of 5 mgKOH/g or less, a saponification value of 420 to 510 mgKOH/g, and a hydroxyl value of 60 mgKOH/g or less.
- Component (A) Glycerin.
- Component (B) a divalent carboxylic acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms.
- caprylic acid n-octanoic acid
- ethylhexanoic acid ethylhexanoic acid
- isononanoic acid isopalmitic acid
- isostearic acid one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid (n-octanoic acid), ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isopalmitic acid, and isostearic acid.
- the oligoester according to the present invention may be an esterified product obtained by using not only the component (C) but also the following component (D) as the fatty acid used in the esterification reaction.
- the oligoester according to the present invention contains 0.65 to 0.8 mol of the following component (B) with respect to 1 mol of the following component (A), and the following component (C) and the following component ( An oligoester obtained by esterifying a total amount of D) with 1.2 to 1.7 mol, wherein the component (C) used in the esterification reaction and the component (D)
- the mass ratio of component (C):component (D) is 99.9:0.1 to 10:90, the acid value is 5 mgKOH/g or less, and the saponification value is 420 to 510 mgKOH/g,
- oligoesters having a hydroxyl value of 60 mgKOH/g or less.
- Component (A) Glycerin.
- Component (B) a divalent carboxylic acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms.
- Component (C) one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isopalmitic acid, and isostearic acid.
- Component (D) One or more fatty acids selected from linear saturated fatty acids having 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
- the oligoester according to the present invention has the effect of suppressing the decrease in the hardness of oily solids over time (the effect of maintaining the hardness of oily solids). That is, the oily solids containing the oligoester according to the present invention can maintain the initial hardness for a longer period of time than the oily solids not containing the oligoester according to the present invention.
- the oligoester according to the present invention has good solubility in wax. Therefore, the oligoester according to the present invention can be dissolved in wax in a molten state, and by cooling the molten wax in which the oligoester according to the present invention is dissolved, the oligoester according to the present invention can be uniformly formed. It is possible to obtain a wax dispersed in The oligoester according to the present invention dissolves well not only in waxes but also in oily compositions containing waxes.
- the wax is an oily substance that is solid at 25°C and melts and becomes liquid at 120°C.
- the oligoester according to the invention is liquid at 20°C. Further, the oligoester according to the present invention has good low-temperature stability, and crystal precipitation is suppressed even at low temperatures. For this reason, the oily composition containing the oligoester according to the present invention is stably retained even at low temperatures with suppressed precipitation of crystals.
- the oligoester according to the present invention has excellent pigment dispersibility. Therefore, by including the oligoester according to the present invention in an oil-based composition containing a pigment, the dispersibility of the pigment is improved, and the pigment can be uniformly dispersed throughout the oil-based composition.
- the oligoester according to the present invention has the effect of improving the luster of the coated surface by bringing it into contact with moisture. “The effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contacting with moisture” means the effect of visually improving the gloss of the coated surface after contact with moisture rather than immediately after application.
- the effect of improving the luster of the coated surface by contacting with moisture can be confirmed, for example, as follows. After thinly applying the test oil to the skin, rubbing the applied surface lightly with a finger back and forth 20 times while exposing the applied surface to running water, remove the applied surface from the running water. After shaking the coated surface to remove water droplets, it was allowed to stand for 5 minutes to dry. The gloss of the coated surface after drying is compared with the gloss of the coated surface immediately after application, and evaluated.
- the component (B) used in the present invention is a divalent carboxylic acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms.
- divalent carboxylic acids having 2 to 12 carbon atoms include oxalic acid (ethanedioic acid), malonic acid (propanedioic acid), succinic acid (butanedioic acid), glutaric acid (pentanedioic acid), adipic acid (xandioic acid), acid), pimelic acid (heptanedioic acid), beric acid (octanedioic acid), azelaic acid (nonanedioic acid), sebacic acid (decanedioic acid), phthalic acid (benzene-1,2-dicarboxylic acid), isophthalic acid (benzene-1,3-carboxylic acid), terephthalic acid (benzene-1,4-dicarboxylic acid) and the like.
- Succinic acid is particularly preferable as the component
- the component (C) used in the present invention is one or two or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isopalmitic acid, and isostearic acid.
- Caprylic acid is particularly preferred as the component (C) used as a raw material for the oligoester according to the present invention.
- the oligoester according to the present invention has better hue and odor than the oligoester obtained by esterifying the unsaturated fatty acid, the component (A), and the component (B).
- the component (D) used in the present invention is one or more fatty acids selected from linear saturated fatty acids having 10 to 24 carbon atoms.
- Specific examples of the fatty acids include capric acid (n-decanoic acid), lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and behenic acid.
- Capric acid is particularly preferred as the component (D) used as a raw material for the oligoester according to the present invention.
- Ratio of mass of component (D) to total mass of component (C) and component (D) ([mass of component (D)]/([mass of component (C)] + [mass of component (D)]) ) may be less than 0.1% by mass, but the ratio of the mass of component (C) to the total mass of component (C) and component (D) ([mass of component (C)]/([component (C) mass]+[component (D) mass])) is preferably 8 or more.
- the component (C) is present in a sufficient amount, precipitation of crystals is suppressed in a low-temperature environment, and an oligoester having excellent low-temperature stability can be obtained.
- the oligoester according to the present invention preferably has an acid value of 5 mgKOH/g or less (0 to 5 mgKOH/g). If the acid number is too high, odor may occur. Since the acid value is 5 mgKOH/g or less, the oligoester according to the present invention does not have a peculiar odor and can be blended into various products without impairing product quality.
- adjusting the acid value of the oligoester according to the present invention within the above range is performed by sampling the reaction product during the esterification reaction, measuring the acid value, and when the desired acid value is reached. It can be carried out by stopping the esterification reaction.
- the saponification value of the oligoester according to the present invention is preferably 420-510 mgKOH/g, more preferably 420-490 mgKOH/g, even more preferably 430-490 mgKOH/g.
- the saponification value is within the above range, the effect of maintaining the hardness of the oily solid is exhibited, the wax solubility, low temperature stability, and pigment dispersibility are good, and the gloss of the coated surface is improved by contacting with water. do.
- the saponification value of the oligoester according to the present invention can be adjusted by the amount charged in the ester reaction.
- the hydroxyl value of the oligoester according to the present invention is preferably 60 mgKOH/g or less, more preferably 0 to 60 mgKOH/g, still more preferably 0 to 40 mgKOH/g, and 0 to 35 mgKOH/g. is even more preferable, and 0 to 20 mgKOH/g is particularly preferable. If the hydroxyl value is too high, wax solubility may become poor. Since the hydroxyl value is 60 mgKOH/g or less, the oligoester according to the present invention has good wax solubility. In addition, the hydroxyl value of the oligoester according to the present invention can be adjusted by the amount charged in the ester reaction.
- the oligoester according to the present invention can be produced with a combination of inexpensive raw materials.
- the oligoester according to the present invention can be obtained with various effects by adjusting the degree of cross-linking and side chains depending on the charged amount of raw materials for the esterification reaction. Specifically, in the oligoester according to the present invention, the degree of cross-linking of the resulting oligoester can be adjusted by changing the amounts of component (A) and component (B) charged. Also, the degree of cross-linking and the number of side chains to be added can be adjusted by changing the amount of the fatty acid used as the component (C).
- the amount of component (A), component (B), and component (C) charged is 0 per 1 mol of component (A). .65 to 0.8 mol and component (C) is 1.2 to 1.7 mol. Further, it is preferable that component (B) is 0.65 to 0.75 mol and component (C) is 1.35 to 1.7 mol per 1 mol of component (A). More preferably, component (B) is 0.7 to 0.75 mol and component (C) is 1.35 to 1.6 mol per mol.
- component (B) added to 1 mol of component (A) is less than 0.65 mol, the obtained oligoester does not have the effect of maintaining the hardness of the oily solid, and the glossiness of the coated surface is lost by contact with water. There may be no improvement effect.
- component (B) is used in an amount exceeding 0.8 mol, cross-linking between component (A) and component (B) may proceed excessively, resulting in turbidity in the resulting oligoester. be.
- component (C) charged per 1 mol of component (A) exceeds 1.7 mol, transesterification may occur and synthesis may not proceed to the desired degree of cross-linking.
- amount of component (C) to be charged is less than 1.2 mol, the amount of unreacted hydroxyl groups increases, and the obtained oligoester may have poor solubility in wax.
- the degree of cross-linking of the resulting oligoester can be adjusted by changing the amounts of component (A) and component (B) charged. Moreover, the degree of cross-linking and the number of side chains to be added can be adjusted by changing the charged amount of the fatty acid of component (C) and component (D).
- component (D) When component (D) is used as a raw material, the amount of component (A), component (B), component (C), and component (D) charged is 1 mol of component (A), component (B) is 0.65 to 0.8 mol, and the total amount of component (C) and component (D) is 1.2 to 1.7 mol. Further, component (B) is 0.65 to 0.75 mol and the total amount of component (C) and component (D) is 1.35 to 1.7 mol per 1 mol of component (A). is preferred, with respect to 1 mol of component (A), 0.7 to 0.75 mol of component (B), and the total amount of component (C) and component (D) is 1.35 to 1.6 mol is more preferable.
- the oligoester according to the present invention is, for example, 0.65 to 0.8 mol of component (B) and 1.2 to 1.7 mol of component (C) per 1 mol of component (A). It can be carried out by reacting at a temperature of 180 to 240° C. in the presence of a catalyst or in the presence of a catalyst.
- component (D) is used as a raw material
- the oligoester of the present invention is, for example, 0.65 to 0.8 mol of component (B) per 1 mol of component (A), component (C) and component It can be carried out by adding 1.2 to 1.7 mol of (D) in total and reacting at a temperature of 180 to 240° C. in the absence of a catalyst or in the presence of a catalyst.
- the catalyst for example, acids, alkalis, or other catalysts known per se in the field of organic chemistry, which are used in the esterification reaction of alcohols and fatty acids, can be applied.
- the esterification reaction may be carried out in a solvent that does not adversely affect the esterification of alcohol and fatty acid, or may be carried out without a solvent.
- a solvent known per se in the field of organic chemistry, which is used in the esterification reaction between alcohol and fatty acid can be applied.
- reaction time usually 20 to 30 hours can be applied.
- reaction time is affected by the starting material (linear or branched) used, the presence or absence of a catalyst, the esterification temperature, the excess amount of acid, etc., and may be 20 hours or less or 30 hours or more.
- the catalyst may be removed by filtration, adsorption, or the like.
- a reactant containing the oligoester according to the present invention is obtained by the esterification reaction.
- a purified oligoester can be obtained by subjecting the reactant to purification treatment by a conventional method.
- the reactants of the esterification reaction can be purified by distillation to remove excess unreacted starting materials.
- the hue can be improved by performing a decolorization treatment by a conventional method.
- An oily composition according to the present invention is characterized by containing the oligoester according to the present invention.
- the oligoester according to the present invention has high affinity for oily components, and particularly good wax solubility. Therefore, the oligoester according to the present invention is suitable as a constituent component of an oil-based composition, and is particularly suitable as a component blended in a wax or an oil-based composition containing wax.
- the form of the oily composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be solid (oily solid), liquid, or semi-solid.
- the oily composition according to the present invention may be in any form such as jelly, gel, paste and ointment.
- the oily composition according to the present invention is an oily solid, its shape is not particularly limited, and it can be molded into various shapes. Examples of the shape include a rod-like shape, a plate-like shape, and a shape formed by pouring into a plate-like shape.
- the oligoester according to the present invention contained in the oily composition according to the present invention may be of one type or of two or more types.
- the content of the oligoester according to the present invention in the oily composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited.
- the content of the oligoester of the present invention in the oily solid of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 90% by mass, more preferably 5 to 70% by mass, and even more preferably 10 to 70% by mass.
- the effect of the oligoester that is, wax solubility, low-temperature stability, pigment dispersibility, and the effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contact with water, can be fully exhibited in the oil-based composition.
- the oily composition is an oily solid, the effect of maintaining the hardness of the oily solid can be sufficiently exhibited.
- the oily composition of the present invention preferably contains a wax that is solid at 25°C together with the oligoester of the present invention.
- Waxes that are solid at 25° C. are not particularly limited, and examples thereof include hydrocarbon waxes such as ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin, petrolatum, Fischer-Tropsch wax, and microcrystalline wax; carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and rice.
- Plant waxes such as wax, sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, wood wax; animal waxes such as beeswax and whale wax; synthetic waxes such as silicone wax, fluorine wax, polyethylene wax, synthetic beeswax; behenyl behenate, monoester waxes such as stearyl stearate; glyceryl fatty acid esters such as glyceryl tribehenate, (behenic acid/isostearic acid/eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, (behenic acid/eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl; long chains such as stearic acid and behenic acid fatty acids; higher alcohols such as stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol;
- the wax that is solid at 25° C. contained in the oily composition according to the present invention may be of one type or two or more types.
- the content of the wax that is solid at 25°C in the oil-based composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be appropriately adjusted according to the desired shape of the oil-based composition.
- the wax content is low, the oily composition becomes liquid, and when the wax content is sufficiently high, the oily composition becomes an oily solid.
- the wax content is preferably 0.1 to 50% by mass, more preferably 1 to 30% by mass, based on the total amount of the solid. . If the wax content is less than 0.1% by mass, sufficient shape retention cannot be obtained, while if it exceeds 50% by mass, the resulting oily solid is hard and difficult to apply smoothly. Sometimes.
- the oily composition of the present invention can contain other oily components in addition to the oligoester of the present invention and the wax that is solid at 25°C.
- Other oily components contained in the oily composition according to the present invention may be liquid, paste or solid at 20°C.
- oily component for example, hydrocarbons, fatty acid esters, triglycerides, fatty acids, higher alcohols, silicone oils, fluorine-based oils and derivatives thereof are used.
- castor oil olive oil, avocado oil, palm oil, cacao oil, liquid paraffin, liquid branched paraffin, petroleum jelly, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, di(caprylic/capric)propanediol, dicaprin Neopentyl Glycol Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Octacaprylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Butyl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, (Caprylic/Capric) Cocoalkyl, (Caprylic/Capric) Caprylyl, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, he
- the content of the other oily component in the oily composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be appropriately adjusted according to the desired shape and product quality of the oily composition.
- the content thereof is preferably 0.1 to 99% by mass, more preferably 10 to 90% by mass.
- the other oily component contained in the oily composition according to the present invention may be of one type, or may be of two or more types.
- the oily composition according to the present invention may contain powder in addition to the oligoester according to the present invention and a wax component that is solid at 25°C. Since the oligoester according to the present invention has good pigment dispersibility, by blending powder into the oil-based composition according to the present invention, an oil-based composition in which the powder is uniformly dispersed throughout the composition can be obtained. be done.
- extender pigments As the powder, extender pigments, coloring pigments, and pearl pigments can be used.
- extender pigments include silicic acid, silicic anhydride, magnesium silicate, talc, sericite, mica, kaolin, clay, bentonite, bismuth oxychloride, zirconium oxide, magnesium oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, calcium sulfate, and sulfuric acid.
- Inorganic pigments such as barium, magnesium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, and composite powders thereof; polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, polystyrene, polyurethane, nylon, silicone resin, vinyl resin, urea resin, phenolic resin, silicon resin, acrylic resin , melamine resin, epoxy resin, polycarbonate resin, divinylbenzene-styrene copolymer, silk powder, cellulose, N ⁇ -lauroyl-L-lysine, long-chain alkyl phosphate metal salt, N-mono long-chain alkyl acyl basic amino acid, Examples include organic powders made of metal soap and the like, composite powders thereof, and composite powders of the above inorganic powders and organic powders.
- the particle shape of these powders may be any shape such as spherical, plate-like, needle-like, granular and amorphous.
- Coloring pigments include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, etc., metal complexes such as manganese violet, cobalt titanate, and carbon.
- Inorganic pigments such as black, organic pigments such as tar-based pigments and lake pigments, and natural pigments such as carmine are included.
- the pearl pigment a pearl pigment obtained by coating mica, synthetic phlogopite, or the like with a coloring agent such as titanium oxide, iron oxide, silicon oxide, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, carmine, or organic pigment can be used. These powders may be used after being subjected to various surface treatments such as water-repellent treatment, water-repellent/oil-repellent treatment, and the like.
- the powder contained in the oil-based composition according to the present invention may be of one type, or may be of two or more types.
- the content of the powder in the oily composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and is preferably 1 to 50% by mass based on the total mass of the oily composition.
- the oil-based composition according to the present invention contains a wax component that is solid at 25°C, other oil-based components, and other components other than the powder, as long as the effects of the oligoester of the present invention are not impaired. good too.
- the other component it is possible to appropriately select and use known components used as additives for cosmetics, sanitary products, pharmaceuticals, and the like.
- the oily composition according to the present invention includes, for example, the oligoester according to the present invention, a wax component that is solid at 25° C., other oily components, and, if necessary, other components such as powder. It can be produced by mixing the raw materials, heating and melting them as necessary to prepare them uniformly, and then molding them into a desired shape. The raw material components may be mixed all at once or sequentially.
- the oily composition according to the present invention itself can be used as cosmetics, sanitary products, pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs, stationery, and the like. It can also be used as a material for manufacturing these products.
- cosmetics those listed below can be used.
- Sanitary products include soaps, body shampoos, shampoos, facial cleansers, conditioners, hand creams, body creams, hair creams, hair waxes, toothpastes and the like.
- Pharmaceuticals, quasi-drugs, and their materials include ointments, ointment bases, suppositories, poultices, creams, gel pads, and the like.
- Examples of stationery include crayons, ink, and the like. Among them, cosmetics, sanitary products, crayons, inks, etc. are preferable because the effect of improving the luster of the coated surface by bringing the oligoester according to the present invention into contact with water improves palatability.
- the oligoester according to the present invention has the effect of maintaining the hardness of the oily solid by adding it to the oily solid containing wax that is solid at 25°C. Therefore, the oligoester according to the present invention can be used as a hardness-maintaining agent for oily solids containing waxes that are solid at 25°C.
- the content of the hardness-maintaining agent composed of the oligoester according to the present invention in the wax-containing solid matter which is solid at 25° C. is preferably 0.1 to 90% by mass, more preferably 5 to 70% by mass. , 10 to 70% by mass is more preferable.
- the oligoester according to the present invention can also be used for a method of maintaining the hardness of an oily solid by incorporating it into an oily solid containing a wax that is solid at 25°C.
- a cosmetic according to the present invention is characterized by containing the oligoester according to the present invention.
- Cosmetics containing the oligoester according to the present invention exhibit various actions and effects of the oligoester, and are therefore excellent in cosmetic performance and stability.
- the form of the cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be solid (oily solid), liquid, or semi-solid.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention may be in any form such as jelly, gel, paste and ointment.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention is an oily solid, its shape is not particularly limited and can be molded into various shapes. Examples of the shape include a rod-like shape, a plate-like shape, and a shape formed by pouring into a plate-like shape.
- the oligoester according to the present invention contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention may be of one type, or may be of two or more types.
- the content of the oligoester according to the present invention in the cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited.
- the content of the oligoester according to the present invention in the cosmetic according to the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 90% by mass, more preferably 5.0 to 70% by mass, based on the total mass of the entire composition of the cosmetic.
- Preferably, 10 to 70% by mass is more preferable.
- the effect of the oligoester that is, wax solubility, low-temperature stability, pigment dispersibility, and the effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contact with moisture, can be fully exhibited in the cosmetic. be able to.
- the cosmetic is an oily solid, the effect of maintaining the hardness of the oily solid can be sufficiently exhibited.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention preferably contains a wax that is solid at 25°C together with the oligoester according to the present invention.
- the wax that is solid at 25° C. is not particularly limited, and for example, those exemplified as waxes to be contained in the oily composition can be used.
- the wax that is solid at 25° C. contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention may be of one type or two or more types.
- the content of the wax that is solid at 25°C in the cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be appropriately adjusted according to the shape required for the cosmetic.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention is an oily solid
- the content of wax with respect to the total amount of solid is preferably 0.1 to 20% by mass with respect to the total mass of the entire composition of the cosmetic. It is more preferably 4 to 20% by mass, even more preferably 4 to 15% by mass. If the wax content is less than 0.1% by mass, the hardness becomes too low and sufficient shape retention cannot be obtained. , it may be difficult to apply smoothly.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention can contain other oily components in addition to the oligoester according to the present invention and the wax that is solid at 25°C.
- Other oily components contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention may be liquid, paste or solid at 20°C.
- the other oily component is not particularly limited, and for example, those exemplified as oily components to be contained in the oily composition can be used.
- the content of the oily component contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be, for example, 0.1 to 99% by mass with respect to the total mass of the entire composition of the cosmetic. can.
- the oily component contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention may be of one type, or may be of two or more types.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention may contain other ingredients in addition to the oligoester, the wax component, and the oily component as long as the effect of the combined use of the oligoester according to the present invention and the wax component that is solid at 25°C is not impaired.
- the cosmetic of the present invention may contain powder in addition to the oligoester of the present invention and a wax component that is solid at 25°C. Since the oligoester according to the present invention has good pigment dispersibility, it is possible to obtain a cosmetic in which the powder is uniformly dispersed throughout.
- the powder contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and, for example, those exemplified as the powder to be contained in the oily composition can be used.
- the content of the powder contained in the powder according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be, for example, 1 to 50% by mass with respect to the total mass of the entire composition of the cosmetic.
- the powder contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention may be of one type, or may be of two or more types.
- the cosmetic of the present invention may contain a surfactant in addition to the oligoester of the present invention and a wax component that is solid at 25°C.
- a surfactant in addition to the oligoester of the present invention and a wax component that is solid at 25°C.
- nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and the like can be used singly or in combination of two or more. .
- nonionic surfactants include monoglyceride, sorbitan fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, alkanolamide, amine oxide, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, Polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene propylene glycol mono fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene fatty acid amide, polyoxyethylene alkylamine, alkyl saccharide, ⁇ -monoalkyl glyceryl ether, dimethylpolysiloxane/poly Oxyalkylene copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxane/monoalkylglyceryl ether copolymers, and the like.
- anionic surfactants include alkylbenzene sulfonate, alkylnaphthalene sulfonate, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether phosphate, and the like.
- cationic surfactants include primary, secondary and tertiary amine salts and quaternary ammonium salts having aliphatic hydrocarbon groups.
- amphoteric surfactants include ⁇ -sodium laurylaminopropionate, betaine lauryldimethylaminoacetate, 2-alkyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethylimidazolinium betaine, and the like.
- Lecithins, soybean saponin, etc. may also be used as surfactants.
- lecithins include lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydroxylated lecithin, lysolecithin, and hydrogenated lysolecithin.
- hydrogenated lecithins include hydrogenated soybean phospholipids, hydrogenated rapeseed phospholipids, and hydrogenated egg yolk phospholipids.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention can further contain additives generally added to cosmetics, water, etc., within a range that does not impair the effect of containing the oligoester according to the present invention.
- additives include antioxidants, antioxidant aids, preservatives, ultraviolet absorbers, monohydric alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, water-soluble polymers, pH adjusters, inorganic salts or organic acid salts, and chelating agents. , vitamins, organic solvents, fragrances, various extracts, ultraviolet scattering agents, and the like. These additives can be used singly or in combination of two or more.
- antioxidants antioxidant aids, preservatives, and UV absorbers as those described above can be used.
- the monohydric alcohol may be a lower alcohol or a higher alcohol.
- lower alcohols include methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, isobutyl alcohol, t-butyl alcohol and the like.
- higher alcohols include cetanol (cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), stearyl alcohol (octadecyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol (isooctadecanol), oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and decyltetradecaol.
- alcohol, hexyldecanol behenyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, hydrogenated lanolin alcohol, and the like.
- the monohydric alcohol one type may be used alone, or two or more types may be used in combination.
- polyhydric alcohols examples include propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol), 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-butanediol), pentylene glycol (1,2-pentanediol diol), neopentylene glycol (2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol), isoprene glycol (3-methyl-1,3-butanediol), dipropylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, polyethylene Glycol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, sorbitan and the like.
- the polyhydric alcohol one type may be used alone, or two or more types may be used in combination.
- the water-soluble thickener may be a natural water-soluble polymer, a semi-synthetic water-soluble polymer, or a synthetic water-soluble polymer.
- the water-soluble thickening agent to be contained in the lip cosmetic according to the present invention may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- Examples of natural water-soluble polymers include agar, glucomannan, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, galactan, guar gum, carob gum, karaya gum, carrageenan, pectin, quince seed (quince), algecolloid (cassou extract), starch (rice, corn). , potato, wheat), microbial polymers such as xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan and bullulan, and animal polymers such as collagen, casein, albumin and gelatin.
- semi-synthetic water-soluble polymers include starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch and methylhydroxypropyl starch, methylcellulose, nitrocellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and carboxymethylcellulose.
- Cellulose-based polymers such as sodium, crystalline cellulose and cellulose powder, and alginic acid-based polymers such as sodium alginate and propylene glycol alginate.
- Examples of synthetic water-soluble polymers include vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone and carboxyvinyl polymer; Examples include polymers, polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene copolymer copolymer polymers, acrylic polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate and polyacrylamide, polyethyleneimine, cationic polymers, and the like.
- pH adjusters examples include edetic acid, disodium edetate, citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and triethanolamine.
- the pH adjusters may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- Inorganic salts include sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and the like.
- Organic acid salts include citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and salts thereof, ascorbic acid and salts thereof, ascorbic acid derivatives and salts thereof, and the like.
- Chelating agents include, for example, disodium edetate, edetate, and hydroxyethanediphosphonic acid.
- a chelating agent may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
- vitamins examples include vitamin A, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B6, vitamin E, vitamin K and their derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, biotin, and the like.
- Extracts include plant extracts such as aloe vera, witch hazel, hamamelis, cucumber, lemon, lavender, and rose.
- Cosmetics according to the present invention are not particularly limited, and for example, make-up cosmetics such as lipsticks, foundations, blushers, eyebrows, eye shadows and eyeliners; emulsified cosmetics such as milky lotions and creams; Examples include liquid cosmetics such as lotions, cleansing creams and cleansing oils; external preparations for skin such as ointments and sunscreens; Among these cosmetics, oil-based cosmetics containing wax that is solid at 25° C. are preferable, and are oil-based solids, because the effects of the high wax-solubility of the oligoester according to the present invention are sufficiently exhibited. Oily solid cosmetics are more preferred.
- the oligoester according to the present invention is a pigment-containing cosmetic, such as a make-up cosmetic, from the viewpoint that the effect of the good pigment dispersibility of the oligoester according to the present invention is exhibited.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention exhibits not only wax solubility and pigment dispersibility, but also the effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contacting with the water contained in the oligoester according to the present invention.
- lip cosmetics such as lipsticks and lip glosses that are applied to the lips, more preferably lip cosmetics containing wax that is solid at 25° C., and oily solids that are oily solids. More preferably, it is a solid lip cosmetic. Lips are always exposed to water such as saliva and water vapor in exhalation, and since the lips are rubbed together, the lip cosmetic applied to the lips is likely to come into contact with water.
- the oligoester according to the present invention can be used in a method for improving the luster of the surface to which the cosmetic is applied by incorporating it into the cosmetic.
- the oligoester according to the present invention is useful for use in a method for improving the luster of a lip cosmetic application surface.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention can be produced according to a normal method, and can be in any form such as stick, paste, cream, gel, liquid, and the like.
- the form of the cosmetic according to the present invention is preferably an oily solid, since the oligoester according to the present invention can sufficiently exhibit the effect of maintaining the hardness of the oily solid.
- the oligoester according to the present invention is not limited to a dosage form, and can be blended in general cosmetics.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention is a lip cosmetic
- the oligoester according to the present invention a solid wax at 25° C., and other ingredients are uniformly heated and mixed, and then the obtained The liquid or paste mixture is filled into a container to form the desired shape and cooled. Thereby, the desired shape of the lip cosmetic is obtained.
- the raw material components may be mixed all at once or sequentially.
- the lip cosmetic is an oily solid
- the content of the oligoester according to the present invention suppresses a decrease in hardness over time, and the shape is maintained and stored for a longer period of time than those not containing the oligoester. Excellent stability.
- the cosmetic according to the present invention is not limited to a solid form, and has good storage stability even in a semi-solid form (gel, paste, ointment) or liquid as long as it contains a wax.
- the lip cosmetic may be an undercoat cosmetic, or a finishing gloss cosmetic called lip gloss, lip color, or the like.
- the content (mass) of the other oily component in the cosmetic according to the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 90% by mass, preferably 10 to 90% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. 70% by mass is more preferable, and 15 to 70% by mass is even more preferable.
- Example 1 Production of oligoester 165.4 g of glycerin, succinic acid (purity: 99.5%, Trade name “succinic acid”, manufactured by Fujifilm Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.) 137.9 g, caprylic acid (purity: 99% by mass or more, trade name “PALMAC99-08” manufactured by IOI Acidchem) 268.0 g, and capric acid (purity : 99% by mass or more, trade name "PALMAC99-10", manufactured by IOI Acidchem) 178.7 g is charged, heated to 230 to 240 ° C. under a nitrogen stream, and an esterification reaction is performed for about 20 hours while removing the generated water.
- succinic acid purity: 99.5%, Trade name “succinic acid”, manufactured by Fujifilm Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.
- caprylic acid purity: 99% by mass or more, trade name “PALMAC99-08” manufactured by IOI Acidchem
- capric acid purity : 99%
- oligoester did After completion of the reaction, excess acid was removed to obtain the desired esterified product (oligoester).
- the resulting oligoester had an acid value of 0.4 mgKOH/g, a saponification value of 447, and a hydroxyl value of 8.9 mgKOH/g.
- Examples 2 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 Production of oligoesters Using the molar amounts and charged amounts shown in Tables 1 to 3, in the same manner as in the production of the esterified product of Example 1, Examples 2 to 8 and Comparative Examples The esters of Examples 1-3 were prepared.
- Test Example 1 Evaluation of oligoesters Using the esterified products obtained in Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 as test oils, the wax solubility of each oligoester and the glossiness of the coated surface were evaluated by contacting with water. Enhanced effectiveness, low temperature stability, and pigment dispersibility were evaluated.
- Comparative Examples 4 to 8 diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, tri(caprylic/capric)glyceryl, lauroyl glutamate di( phytosteryl/octyldodecyl) and castor oil were used as test oils, respectively.
- ceresin wax (trade name “CERESIN #810”, manufactured by Nikko Rica Co., Ltd.), triethylhexanoin (trade name “T.I.O”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Co., Ltd.) , isotridecyl isononanoate (trade name “Salacos 913”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Co., Ltd.), hydrogenated polydecene (trade name “Nomkort HP-30”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Co., Ltd.), diisostearyl malate (trade name “Cosmo 222”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Inc.), polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (trade name “Cosmo 43V”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Inc.), tri (caprylic acid/capric acid) Glyceryl (trade name “ODO”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Co.
- the two-component system evaluation is preferable in terms of quality stability when making an oily solid.
- the wax solubility of each test oil was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. When the evaluation was a or b, it was judged that the wax solubility was high.
- Evaluation of the effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contacting with moisture a: Evaluation value (average score) 4.0 or more and 5.0 b: Evaluation value (average score) 3.5 or more and less than 4.0 c: Evaluation value (average score) 2.5 or more and less than 3.5 d: Evaluation value (average score) 1.0 or more and less than 2.5
- the low-temperature stability of each test oil was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. When the evaluation was a or b, it was judged that the low temperature stability was high.
- the pigment dispersibility of each test oil was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. When the evaluation was a or b, it was judged that the pigment dispersibility was high.
- the oligoester Examples 1 to 8 according to the present invention are excellent in wax solubility, the effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contacting with moisture, low temperature stability, and the pigment Good dispersibility.
- the oligoester of Comparative Example 1 does not have the effect of improving the gloss of the coated surface by contacting with water
- the oligoester of Comparative Example 2 does not have good wax solubility
- the oligoester of Comparative Example 3 Oligoesters have been found to have poor low temperature stability.
- Comparative Example 3 From the results of Comparative Example 3, it was inferred that the oligoester synthesized only from straight-chain fatty acids having 10 or more carbon atoms had poor low-temperature stability.
- the oil solutions of Comparative Examples 4, 6 and 8 were inferior in pigment dispersibility.
- the castor oil of Comparative Example 8 was a natural product and had a problem in terms of quality stability.
- ⁇ Raw materials for lipstick (stick type)> As a raw material for the lipstick (stick type) in Tables 10 and 11, a mixture of synthetic wax (trade name “Lip wax A-4”, manufactured by Japan Natural Products Co., Ltd.) and ethylene / propylene copolymer (trade name “Lip wax PZ80-20", manufactured by Japan Natural Products Co., Ltd.), microcrystalline wax (trade name: “Multiwax W445", manufactured by Sonneborn), Vaseline (trade name: “Nomcoat W”, manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.), lauroyl Di(octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl) glutamate (trade name “Eldew PS-304”, manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.), lanolin (trade name “Ecolano LN-E”, manufactured by Nippon Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.), hydrogenated polyisobutene (trade name “Pearl Ream 18” manufactured by NOF Corporation
- Criteria for evaluating storage stability a: hardness retention rate of 85% or more b: hardness retention rate of 75% or more and less than 85% c: hardness retention rate of less than 75%
- Evaluation value (average score) 4.0 or more and 5.0 a: Evaluation value (average score) 4.0 or more and 5.0
- b Evaluation value (average score) 3.5 or more and less than 4.0
- c Evaluation value (average score) 2.5 or more and less than 3.5
- d Evaluation value (average score) 1.0 or more and less than 2.5
- Example 19 Lip gloss According to the formulation shown in Table 12, a lip gloss was produced. "%” in Table 12 means “% by mass”. The resulting lip gloss was pasty, could be applied smoothly, had a thick coating film, improved luster after application, lasted for a long time, and had good storage stability. The reason why the gloss improved after application is considered to be that moisture in saliva and exhaled air came into contact with the coated surface.
- ⁇ Raw material of lip gloss As raw materials for the lip gloss in Table 12, dipentaerythrityl pentaisostearate (trade name “Salacos DP-518N”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Co., Ltd.), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (trade name “Salacos 5418V”, Nisshin OilliO) Group Co., Ltd.) and (behenic acid/eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl (trade name “NOMUCORT HK-G”, Nisshin OilliO Group Co., Ltd.) were used, respectively.
- a cleansing oil was obtained by cooling the components of Section A to room temperature while stirring and mixing after stirring and mixing the components of Section A in a heated state of 80° C. to make them sufficiently uniform.
- Evaluation value (average score) 4.0 or more and 5.0 a: Evaluation value (average score) 4.0 or more and 5.0
- b Evaluation value (average score) 3.5 or more and less than 4.0
- c Evaluation value (average score) 2.5 or more and less than 3.5
- d Evaluation value (average score) 1.0 or more and less than 2.5
- Example 21 Water-in-oil foundation A water-in-oil foundation was produced according to the formulation shown in Table 14. "%” in Table 14 means “% by mass”.
- BG trade name “1,3-butylene glycol”, manufactured by Daicel Corporation
- glycerin trade name “Concentrated glycerin for cosmetics”, manufactured by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.
- dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate (trade name “Salacos WO-6”, manufactured by Nisshin Oilio Group Co., Ltd.), dimethicone (trade name “KF-96A-6cs”, manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), methoxy cinnamon Ethylhexyl acid (trade name “Nomkort TAB”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Inc.), polyhydroxystearic acid (trade name “Salacos HS-6C”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Inc.), disteardimonium hectorite (trade name “Bentone 38V”, manufactured by ELEMENTIS), cetyl dimethicone copolyol (trade name “ABIL EM 90”, manufactured by Evonik Operations GmbH), PEG-10 dimethicone (trade name “KF-6017”, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
- the water-in-oil type foundation of Example 21 was creamy, could be applied smoothly during application, formed a uniform coating film without color unevenness, had a glossy and beautiful finish, and had a good moisturizing effect.
- neopentyl glycol dicaprate (trade name “Estemol N-01”, manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group Co., Ltd.), dimethicone (trade name “KF-96A-10cs”, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. ( Co., Ltd.), phytosteryl oleate (trade name “Salacos PO”, Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.), and isododecane (trade name “Marcazol R”, Maruzen Petrochemical Co., Ltd.) were used, respectively.
- the same dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate and tocopherol used in Example 21 were used.
- a hair oil was obtained by stirring and mixing the components of Section A at room temperature and dissolving them uniformly and transparently.
- the hair oil of Example 22 was easy to blend into the hair, had a non-sticky feel, had good finger combability, good manageability, smooth hair, and had a glossy finish.
- Solid powdery foundation A solid powdery foundation was produced according to the formulation shown in Table 16. "%” in Table 16 means “% by mass”.
- a solid powdery foundation was obtained by mixing and dispersing the components of Section A, adding the components of Section B which had been heated and mixed at 50° C., mixing and pulverizing, and compression-molding on a metal plate.
- the solid powdery foundation of Example 23 was excellent in covering effect, had a moist texture, and did not give a dry feeling.
- Example 24 Oil-in-water emulsified moisturizing cream According to the formulation shown in Table 17, an oil-in-water emulsified moisturizing cream was produced. "%” in Table 17 means “% by mass”.
- the oil-in-water emulsified moisturizing cream of Example 24 had good compatibility with the skin, a long-lasting moisturizing feeling, and good storage stability.
- the oligoester according to the present invention can be used as a material for manufacturing cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and stationery.
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Abstract
Description
本願は、2022年2月24日に、日本に出願された特願2022-027108号に基づき優先権を主張し、その内容をここに援用する。
また、本発明は、保存安定性が良好であり、肌へ塗布した際のつき及びのびに優れた、該オリゴエステルを含有する化粧料を提供することも目的とする。
[1] 下記の成分(A)と、成分(B)と、成分(C)とをエステル化反応することにより得られるオリゴエステルであって、
前記エステル化反応が、前記成分(A)1モルに対して、前記成分(B)を0.65~0.8モルと、前記成分(C)を1.2~1.7モルとをエステル化反応するものであり、
前記オリゴエステルは、酸価が5mgKOH/g以下であり、ケン化価が420~510mgKOH/gであり、水酸基価が60mgKOH/g以下であることを特徴とする、オリゴエステル。
成分(A):グリセリン。
成分(B):炭素数2~12の二価カルボン酸。
成分(C):カプリル酸、エチルヘキサン酸、イソノナン酸、イソパルミチン酸、及びイソステアリン酸からなる群より選択される1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。
[2] 下記の成分(A)と、成分(B)と、成分(C)と、成分(D)をエステル化反応することにより得られるオリゴエステルであって、
前記エステル化反応が、前記成分(A)1モルに対して、前記成分(B)を0.65~0.8モルと、前記成分(C)と前記成分(D)の合計量を1.2~1.7モルとをエステル化反応するものであり、
前記エステル化反応に用いられる前記成分(C)と前記成分(D)との質量比が、成分(C):成分(D)=99.9:0.1~10:90であり、
前記オリゴエステルは、酸価が5mgKOH/g以下であり、ケン化価が420~510mgKOH/gであり、水酸基価が60mgKOH/g以下であることを特徴とする、オリゴエステル。
成分(A):グリセリン。
成分(B):炭素数2~12の二価カルボン酸。
成分(C):カプリル酸、エチルヘキサン酸、イソノナン酸、イソパルミチン酸、及びイソステアリン酸からなる群より選択される1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。
成分(D):炭素数10~24の直鎖飽和脂肪酸から選ばれる1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。
[3] 前記成分(D)が、カプリン酸である、前記[2]のオリゴエステル。
[4] 前記成分(C)が、カプリル酸である、前記[1]~[3]のいずれか一つに記載のオリゴエステル。
[5] 前記成分(B)が、コハク酸である、前記[1]~[4]のいずれか一つに記載のオリゴエステル。
[6] 前記[1]~[5]のいずれかのオリゴエステルを含有する、油性組成物。
[7] さらに、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する、前記[6]の油性組成物。
[8] 固形物である、前記[6]又は[7]の油性組成物。
[9] 半固形状である、前記[6]又は[7]の油性組成物。
[10] 前記[1]~[5]のいずれか一つに記載のオリゴエステルを含有する、化粧料。
[11] さらに、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する、前記[10]の化粧料。
[12] 前記化粧料が、口唇化粧料である、前記[10]又は[11]に記載の化粧料。
[13] 前記[1]~[5]のいずれか一つに記載のオリゴエステルを含有する、文房具。
[14] クレヨンである、前記[13]の文房具。
[15] グリセリン1モルに対して、0.65~0.8モルのコハク酸と1.2~1.7モルの脂肪酸とをエステル化反応してオリゴエステルを製造し、
前記脂肪酸が、カプリル酸及びカプリン酸を含有し、カプリル酸とカプリン酸との質量比が、カプリル酸:カプリン酸=99:1~10:90であり、
前記オリゴエステルは、酸価が10mgKOH/g以下であり、ケン化価が420~510KOH/gであり、水酸基価が60mgKOH/g以下であることを特徴とする、オリゴエステルの製造方法。
[16] 前記[1]~[5]のいずれか一つに記載のオリゴエステルからなる硬度維持剤であって、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する油性固形物の硬度維持剤。
[17] 前記[1]~[5]のいずれか一つに記載のオリゴエステルを、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する油性固形物に含有させることによって、油性固形物の硬度を維持する方法。
[18] 前記[1]~[5]のいずれか一つに記載のオリゴエステルを化粧料に含有させることによって、化粧料の塗布面のつやを向上させる方法。
[19] 前記化粧料が、口唇化粧料である、前記[18]のつやを向上させる方法。
当該オリゴエステルを含有させた化粧料は、化粧性能及び安定性に優れるものである。
本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、下記成分(A)1モルに対して、下記成分(B)を0.65~0.8モルと、下記成分(C)を1.2~1.7モルとをエステル化反応することにより得られるオリゴエステルであって、酸価が5mgKOH/g以下であり、ケン化価が420~510mgKOH/gであり、水酸基価が60mgKOH/g以下であるオリゴエステルである。
成分(A):グリセリン。
成分(B):炭素数2~12の二価カルボン酸。
成分(C):カプリル酸(n-オクタン酸)、エチルヘキサン酸、イソノナン酸、イソパルミチン酸、及びイソステアリン酸からなる群より選択される1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。
成分(A):グリセリン。
成分(B):炭素数2~12の二価カルボン酸。
成分(C):カプリル酸、エチルヘキサン酸、イソノナン酸、イソパルミチン酸、及びイソステアリン酸からなる群より選択される1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。
成分(D):炭素数10~24の直鎖飽和脂肪酸から選ばれる1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。
また、本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、低温安定性が良好であり、低温状態でも結晶の析出が抑えられている。このため、本発明に係るオリゴエステルを含有させた油性組成物は、低温でも結晶の析出が抑えられ、安定して保持される。
試験油剤を皮膚に薄く塗布後、塗布面を流水に晒しながら、指で20往復軽くこすった後、塗布面を流水から離す。塗布面を振って水滴を落とした後、5分間静置して乾かす。乾かした後の塗布面のつやを、塗布直後の塗布面のつやと比較し、評価する。
なお、本発明に係るオリゴエステルの酸価を前記範囲内に調整することは、エステル化反応中に、反応生成物をサンプリングし、その酸価を測定し、所望の酸価となった時点でエステル化反応を停止することによって実施可能である。
なお、本発明に係るオリゴエステルのケン化価は、エステル反応における仕込み量で調整することができる。
なお、本発明に係るオリゴエステルの水酸基価は、エステル反応における仕込み量で調整することができる。
グリセリン、直鎖飽和脂肪酸は植物由来が一般に流通しており、コハク酸に関しても発酵法により工業的に大量生産が行われている。このため、特に成分(B)としてコハク酸を用いることにより、本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、安価な原料の組み合わせで生産できる。なかでも、環境への影響、供給の持続性の観点からは、本発明のオリゴエステルの原料として、成分(A)としてグリセリン、成分(B)としてコハク酸、成分(C)として直鎖飽和脂肪酸であるカプリル酸、及び成分(D)としてカプリン酸を用いることは好ましい。
本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、エステル化反応の原料の仕込み量によってその架橋度及び側鎖を調整し、各種効果を有するオリゴエステルを得ることができる。具体的には、本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、成分(A)と成分(B)の仕込み量を変えることにより、得られるオリゴエステルの架橋度を調整することができる。また、成分(C)の脂肪酸の仕込み量を変えることにより、架橋度と側鎖の付加数を調整することができる。
本発明に係る油性組成物は、本発明に係るオリゴエステルを含有することを特徴とする。本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、油性成分に対する親和性が高く、特にワックス溶解性が良好である。このため、本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、油性組成物の構成成分として適しており、特にワックスやワックスを含有する油性組成物に配合される成分として適している。
25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する油性固形物への本発明に係るオリゴエステルからなる硬度維持剤の含有量としては、0.1~90質量%が好ましく、5~70質量%がより好ましく、10~70質量%がさらに好ましい。
また、本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する油性固形物に含有させることによって、油性固形物の硬度を維持する方法についても使用することができる。
本発明に係る化粧料は、本発明に係るオリゴエステルを含有することを特徴とする。本発明に係るオリゴエステルを含有させた化粧料は、当該オリゴエステルが有する各種作用や効果が発揮されるため、化粧性能及び安定性に優れるものである。
したがって、本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、化粧料に含有させることによって、化粧料の塗布面のつやを向上させる方法に使用することができる。
特に、本発明に係るオリゴエステルは、口唇化粧料の塗布面のつやを向上させる方法の使用に有用である。
撹拌機、温度計、窒素ガス吹込管及び水分分離器を備えた1L容の四つ口フラスコに、グリセリン165.4g、コハク酸(純度:99.5%、商品名「こはく酸」、富士フイルム和光純薬社製)137.9g、カプリル酸(純度:99質量%以上、商品名「PALMAC99-08」、IOI Acidchem製)268.0g、及びカプリン酸(純度:99質量%以上、商品名「PALMAC99-10」、IOI Acidchem製)178.7gを仕込み、窒素気流下、230~240℃に加熱し、生成した水を除去しながら、約20時間エステル化反応を行った。反応終了後、過剰の酸を除去し、目的のエステル化物(オリゴエステル)を得た。
得られたオリゴエステルの酸価は0.4mgKOH/gであり、ケン化価は447であり、水酸基価8.9mgKOH/gであった。
表1~3のモル量及び仕込み量で、実施例1のエステル化物の製造と同様にして、実施例2~8、及び比較例1~3のエステル化物を製造した。
実施例1~8及び比較例1~3でえられたエステル化物を試験油剤として、各オリゴエステルのワックス溶解性、水分と接触させることで塗布面のつやが向上する効果、低温安定性、及び顔料分散性について評価した。比較例4~8において、比較対象として、化粧品用原料として汎用的に用いられる油剤であるリンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、トリイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2、トリ(カプリル酸/カプリン酸)グリセリル、ラウロイルグルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル/オクチルドデシル)、及びヒマシ油を、各々、試験油剤として用いた。
2成分系評価として、セレシンワックス0.5g及び試験油剤4.5gを13.5mL容のスクリュー管に秤量し、110℃に加熱して融解混合した溶解状態を、目視で確認した。
混合系評価として、セレシンワックス0.5g、試験油剤1.5g、トリエチルヘキサノイン1.65g、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル0.6g、及び水添ポリデセン0.75gを13.5mL容のスクリュー管に秤量し、110℃に加熱して融解混合した溶解状態を、目視で確認した。
なお、2成分系評価の方が、ワックス溶解性が高いことから、油性固形物とする際に品質安定面において好適である。
各試験油剤のワックス溶解性は、下記の評価基準に従い評価した。評価がa又はbの場合、ワックス溶解性が高いと判断した。
a:2成分系評価で透明溶解している
b:混合系評価で透明溶解している
c:透明溶解しない
試験油剤を水と接触させることで塗布面のつやが向上する効果について、専門パネル5名により、以下の方法で評価した。
試験油剤30μLを前腕部内側に人差し指で薄く塗布し、塗布面を30℃の流水に晒しながら、人差し指で20往復軽くこすった後、当該塗布面を流水から離した。当該塗布面を振って水滴を落とした後、5分間静置して乾かした。乾かした後の塗布面のつやを、塗布直後の塗布面のつやと比較し、評価した。各試験油剤の水分と接触させることで塗布面のつやが向上する効果は、下記の評価基準で評価し、評価がa又はbの場合、つやが向上したと判断した。
5:塗布直後よりもつやが向上した
4:塗布直後よりもつやがやや向上した
3:塗布直後とつやに変化なし
2:塗布直後よりもつやがやや減少した
1:塗布直後よりもつやが減少した
a:評価値(平均点)4.0以上5.0
b:評価値(平均点)3.5以上4.0未満
c:評価値(平均点)2.5以上3.5未満
d:評価値(平均点)1.0以上2.5未満
各試験油剤10gを13.5mL容のスクリュー管にとり、0℃の環境下で1週間保存した後の結晶の析出の有無を、目視で観察した。
各試験油剤の低温安定性は、下記の評価基準に従い評価した。評価がa又はbの場合、低温安定性が高いと判断した。
a:透明液状である
b:わずかに結晶が析出した
c:明らかな結晶析出が観察された
試験油剤4g及び酸化チタン(商品名「TIPAQUE A-100」、石原産業(株)製)20gを混合し、次いでパルミチン酸オクチル(商品名「サラコスP-8」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)を加えていき、全体が一つにまとまる点を湿潤点とし、全体に傾けたときに流れ始める点を流動点として、それぞれの点に達するまでに加えたパルミチン酸オクチルの量を測定し、それぞれ湿潤点値、及び流動点値とした。
湿潤点値が低いほど、また、湿潤点値と流動点値の差が小さいほど、試験油剤の顔料分散性が高いといえる。
各試験油剤の顔料分散性は、下記の評価基準に従い評価した。評価がa又はbの場合、顔料分散性が高いと判断した。
a:湿潤点が2.0g未満かつ([流動点]-[湿潤点])が3.0g未満
b:湿潤点が2.0g未満かつ([流動点]-[湿潤点])3.0g以上20.0g未満c:湿潤点が2.0g以上かつ([流動点]-[湿潤点])20.0g未満
d:湿潤点が2.0g以上かつ([流動点]-[湿潤点])20.0g以上
表4~6の結果からわかるように、本発明に係るオリゴエステル実施例1~8は、ワックス溶解性、水分と接触させることで塗布面のつやが向上する効果、低温安定性に優れ、顔料分散性が良好であった。これに対して、比較例1のオリゴエステルは、水分と接触させることで塗布面のつやが向上する効果がなく、比較例2のオリゴエステルは、ワックス溶解性が良好ではなく、比較例3のオリゴエステルは、低温安定性が良好ではないことが分かった。比較例3の結果から、炭素数10以上の直鎖脂肪酸のみで合成したオリゴエステルの場合、低温安定性が良好でないことが推察された。化粧品用原料として汎用的に用いられる比較例4~8の油剤は、水分と接触させることで塗布面のつやが向上する効果がなかった。また、比較例4、6、8の油剤は、顔料分散性も劣っていた。さらに、比較例8のヒマシ油は、天然物であり、品質の安定面で問題があった。
表7~9に示す処方にて、油性固形物を製造し、初期硬度及びサイクル試験後の硬度維持率を評価した。表7~9の原料組成における「%」は「質量%」を意味する。
表7~9に記載に基づき、原料成分全てを100℃の加熱状態で撹拌混合し、これをポリカーボネート製容器(直径38mm、深さ17mm)に流し込み、室温まで冷却して、円柱状の油性固形物を製造した。
ゲル硬度計(製品名「小型卓上試験機EZ-Test EZ-SX」、(株)島津製作所製)を用い、前記ポリカーボネート製容器内の油性固形物に、直径5mmの球状プランジャーを2.5mm押し込んだ際の最大応力(gf)を硬度とした。
製造された油性固形物について、25℃の恒温槽に24時間静置した後の硬度(初期硬度)と、5℃で12時間保存後に40℃で12時間保存するという工程を繰り返し行うサイクル保存試験を2週間行った後の油性固形物の硬度(保存試験後硬度)を測定し、初期硬度を100%とした時の保存試験後の硬度を硬度維持率(%)とした。
各油性固形物の硬度維持率は、下記の評価基準に従い評価した。評価がa又はbの場合、硬度維持率が高いと判断した。
a: 80%以上
b: 70%以上、80%未満
c: 70%未満
表7~9の結果からわかるように、本発明に係るオリゴエステルが配合された油性固形物は、硬度維持率が良好であった。比較例10の油性固形物は、硬度維持率は良好であったが、当該油性固形物中に含まれる比較例3のオリゴエステルは低温安定性に劣るものであった。比較例9、11~15の油性固形物は、硬度維持率が悪かった。
表10及び11に示す処方にて、口紅(スティックタイプ)を製造し、保存安定性と顔料分散性、使用感を評価した。表10及び11中の「%」は「質量%」を意味する。
表10及び11の口紅(スティックタイプ)の原料として、合成ワックス(商品名「リップワックスA-4」、(株)日本ナチュラルプロダクツ製)合成ワックスとエチレン/プロピレンコポリマーの混合物(商品名「リップワックスPZ80-20」、(株)日本ナチュラルプロダクツ製)、マイクロクリスタリンワックス(商品名「Multiwax W445」、SONNEBORN社製)、ワセリン(商品名「ノムコートW」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、ラウロイルグルタミン酸ジ(オクチルドデシル/フィトステリル/ベヘニル)(商品名「エルデュウPS-304」、味の素(株)製)、ラノリン(商品名「Ecolano LN-E」、日本精化(株)製)、水添ポリイソブテン(商品名「パールリーム18」、日油(株)製)、ジイソステアリン酸ポリグリセリル-2(商品名「コスモール42V」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、酸化チタン(商品名「TIPAQUE CR-50」、石原産業(株))を、それぞれ用いた。ラウロイルグルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル/オクチルドデシル)、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、トリエチルヘキサノイン、イソノナン酸イソトリデシル、水添ポリデセン、セレシンワックスは、試験例1と同じものを用いた。
区分Cの着色料は、良く混合した後にロールミルにて分散した。区分A~Cの成分を100℃の加熱状態で撹拌混合して十分に均一にした後に、減圧にて脱泡し、これを砲弾型の口紅金型へ流し込み、室温まで冷却することによって口紅(スティックタイプ)を得た。また、同時にポリカーボネート製容器(直径38mm、深さ17mm)に流し込み、室温まで冷却して、円柱状の口紅を製造した。口紅(スティックタイプ)は、使用感評価に用いた。円柱状の口紅は、硬度測定、顔料分散性評価に用いた。
ゲル硬度計(商品名「SD700」、(株)サン科学製)を用い、前記ポリカーボネート製容器内の口紅に、直径5mmの球状プランジャーを2.5mm押し込んだ際の最大応力(g)を硬度とした。
各口紅について、硬度の変化を指標として、保存安定性を評価した。具体的には、前記の油性固形物と同様にして硬度維持率(%)を測定し、下記の評価基準で保存安定性を評価した。硬度維持率が高いほど、保存安定性が高いと評価した。
各口紅の保存安定性は、下記の評価基準に従い評価した。評価がa又はbの場合、保存安定性が高いと判断した。
a: 硬度維持率85%以上
b: 硬度維持率75%以上、85%未満
c: 硬度維持率75%未満
まず、色差計(商品名:「カラーリーダーCR-10」、コニカミノルタ(株)製)を用い、前記透明ポリカーボネート製容器内の口紅を測色した。次いで、容器から口紅を取り出し、ガラス板上にてヘラで良く練り込み、再度透明ポリカーボネート製容器に流し込み、同様にして測色した。L*a*b*表色系での、練り込み前後での色差(ΔE)を求め、色差が小さいほど、外観色と塗布色の変化が少なく、外観発色性が良いと評価した。
各口紅に対して、専門パネル5名により、「つきの良さ」、「のびの良さ」、「色ムラのなさ」、「ベタツキの低さ」等の各評価項目について、評価した。
各口紅の使用感は、下記の評価基準に従い評価した。評価がa又はbの場合、使用感が良好であると判断した。
5:良好である
4:やや良好である
3:普通である
2:やや悪い
1:悪い
a:評価値(平均点)4.0以上5.0
b:評価値(平均点)3.5以上4.0未満
c:評価値(平均点)2.5以上3.5未満
d:評価値(平均点)1.0以上2.5未満
表10及び11の結果からわかるように、実施例17の口紅は、スティック状化粧料として保存安定性が良好で、外観発色性に優れ、つきやのびなどの使用感が良好で、色ムラなく塗布できるものであった。実施例18の口紅においても、保存安定性が良好で、つきやのびが良好でベタツキの低い良好な使用感であった。口紅は、温度変化が繰り返されると硬度が低下し、使用時にスティックが折れる問題が起きる可能性があるが、本発明に係るオリゴエステルを配合した化粧料では、保存時の硬度の低下が起きにくく、この懸念が低いことが確認された。
表12に示す処方にて、リップグロスを製造した。表12中の「%」は「質量%」を意味する。
得られたリップグロスは、ペースト状で、塗布時に滑らかに塗布でき、塗膜に厚みがあり、塗布後につやが向上し、つやが長続きし、保存安定性が良好なものであった。塗布後につやが向上したのは、唾液や呼気中の水分が塗布面に接触したためと考えられる。
表12のリップグロスの原料として、ペンタイソステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル(商品名「サラコスDP-518N」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、テトライソステアリン酸ペンタエリスリチル(商品名「サラコス5418V」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、及び(ベヘン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリル(商品名「ノムコートHK-G」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)を、それぞれ用いた。
区分Aの成分を100℃の加熱状態で撹拌混合して十分に均一にした後に、減圧にて脱泡し、室温まで冷却することによって、リップグロスを得た。
表13に示す処方にて、クレンジングオイルを製造し、使用感を評価した。表13中の「%」は「質量%」を意味する。
表13のクレンジングオイルの原料として、トリイソステアリン酸PEG-20グリセリル(商品名「サラコスGE-318」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、エチルヘキサン酸セチル(商品名「サラコス816T」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)を、それぞれ用いた。(ベヘン酸/エイコサン二酸)グリセリルは、実施例19と同じものを用いた。
区分Aの成分を80℃の加熱状態で撹拌混合して十分に均一にした後に、撹拌混合しながら室温まで冷却することによって、クレンジングオイルを得た。
各クレンジングについて、50℃に1か月保管した時の外観を指標として、保存安定性を評価した。具体的には、30mL容のスクリュー管に入れたクレンジングオイルの上層に透明な分離層の有無を観察し、下記の評価基準で保存安定性を評価した。
a: 分離層がなく保存安定性が良好
b: 明らかな分離層があり保存安定性が不良
各クレンジングオイルに対して、専門パネル5名により、「塗布時の摩擦感」、「メイク落とし」、「すすぎ性」等の各評価項目について、評価した。
各クレンジングオイルの使用感は、下記の評価基準に従い評価した。評価がa又はbの場合、使用感が良好であると判断した。
5:良好である
4:やや良好である
3:普通である
2:やや悪い
1:悪い
a:評価値(平均点)4.0以上5.0
b:評価値(平均点)3.5以上4.0未満
c:評価値(平均点)2.5以上3.5未満
d:評価値(平均点)1.0以上2.5未満
表13の結果からわかるように、実施例20のクレンジングオイルは、クレンジングオイルとして保存安定性が良好で、塗布時に摩擦感が感じられず、メイク落とし性能に優れるものであった。摩擦感なくメイクとなじませることができることは、肌に刺激を与えない点で重要であり、スキンケアとして利点がある。メイクをなじませた後、流水で簡単に洗い流すことができるため、使用性が良好なクレンジングオイルであることが確認された。
表14に示す処方にて、油中水型ファンデーションを製造した。表14中の「%」は「質量%」を意味する。
表13の油中水型ファンデーションの原料として、BG(商品名「1,3-ブチレングリコール」、(株)ダイセル製)、グリセリン(商品名「化粧品用濃グリセリン」、阪本薬品工業(株)製)、トリポリヒドロキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル(商品名「サラコスWO-6」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、ジメチコン(商品名「KF-96A-6cs」、信越化学工業(株)製)、メトキシケイヒ酸エチルヘキシル(商品名「ノムコートTAB」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、ポリヒドロキシステアリン酸(商品名「サラコスHS-6C」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、ジステアルジモニウムヘクトライト(商品名「ベントン38V」、ELEMENTIS社製)、セチルジメチコンコポリオール(商品名「ABIL EM 90」、Evonik Operations GmbH社製)、PEG-10ジメチコン(商品名「KF-6017」、信越化学工業(株)製)、セタノール(商品名「カルコール6870」、花王(株)製)、べへニルアルコール(商品名「カルコール220-80」、花王(株)製)、微粒子酸化チタン分散体(商品名「コスメサーブWP-UF(V)」、大日本化成(株)製)、微粒子酸化亜鉛分散体(商品名「コスメサーブWPA-STD(V)―2」、大日本化成(株)製)、(ジメチコン/メチコン)コポリマー処理粉体(大東化成工業(株)製)、ポリメタクリル酸メチル(商品名「マツモトマイクロスフェアーM-100」、松本油脂製薬(株)製)、トコフェロール(商品名「トコフェロール100」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)を、それぞれ用いた。トリエチルヘキサノイン、エチルヘキサン酸セチル、水添ポリデセンは、試験例1と同じものを用いた。酸化チタンは、実施例17と同じものを用いた。
区分A、Bの成分をそれぞれ70℃の加熱状態で撹拌混合した後に、区分Bに区分Aを投入してホモミキサーにて乳化、分散し、冷却することによって油中水型ファンデーションを得た。
実施例21の油中水型ファンデーションは、クリーム状で、塗布時に滑らかに塗布でき、均一で色ムラのない塗膜ができ、つやのある綺麗な仕上がりで、保湿感が良好なものであった。
表15に示す処方にて、ヘアオイルを製造した。表15中の「%」は「質量%」を意味する。
表15のヘアオイルの原料として、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール(商品名「エステモールN-01」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、ジメチコン(商品名「KF-96A-10cs」、信越化学工業(株)製)、オレイン酸フィトステリル(商品名「サラコスPO」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)およびイソドデカン(商品名「マルカゾールR」、丸善石油化学(株)製)、を、それぞれ用いた。トリポリヒドロキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル、トコフェロールは、実施例21と同じものを用いた。
区分Aの成分をそれぞれ室温で撹拌混合し、均一に透明溶解させることによってヘアオイルを得た。
実施例22のヘアオイルは、髪になじみやすく、べたつかない使用感で、指通りがよく、まとまりがよく、毛並みが整い、つや感のある仕上がりがあるものであった。
表16に示す処方にて、固形粉末状ファンデーションを製造した。表16中の「%」は「質量%」を意味する。
表16の固形粉末状ファンデーションの原料として、シリコン処理赤色酸化鉄(商品名「SI01-2 RED R-516L」、大東化成工業(株)製)、シリコン処理黄色酸化鉄(商品名「SI01-2 YELLOW LLXLO」、大東化成工業(株)製)、シリコン処理黒色酸化鉄(商品名「SI01-2 BLACK BL-100」、大東化成工業(株)製)、セリサイト(商品名「セリサイトFSE」、ジャパンセリサイト(株)製)、シリコン処理マイカ(商品名「SI-Mica M302」、三好化成(株)製)、タルク(商品名「タルクJA-46R」、浅田製粉(株)製)、ポリメタクリル酸メチル(商品名「マツモトマイクロスフェアーM-100」、松本油脂製薬(株)製)、スクワラン(商品名「フィトスクワラン」、SOPHIM社製)、ジメチコン(商品名「KF-96A-20cs」、信越化学工業(株)製)、ワセリン(商品名「ノムコートW」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)を、それぞれ用いた。酸化チタンは、実施例17と同じものを用いた。
区分Aの成分を混合分散し、50℃で加熱混合した区分Bの成分を添加し、混合粉砕し、金皿に圧縮成形させることによって固形粉末状ファンデーションを得た。
実施例23の固形粉末状ファンデーションは、カバー効果に優れ、しっとりとした質感で乾燥感を感じないものであった。
表17に示す処方にて、水中油型乳化保湿クリームを製造した。表17中の「%」は「質量%」を意味する。
表17の水中油型乳化保湿クリームの原料として、ステアリン酸ポリグリセリルー10(商品名「サラコスPGMSV」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、ジステアリン酸ポリグリセリルー10(商品名「サラコスPGDSV」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、ステアリン酸グリセリル(SE)(商品名「LASEMUL92AE」、Industrial Quimica Lasem,S.A.U.社製)、カルボマー(商品名「カーボポール980」、ルーブリゾール・アドバンスト・マテリアルズ社製)、キサンタンガム(商品名「ノムコートZZ」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、ジメチコン(商品名「KF-96A-100cs」、信越化学工業(株)製)、ヘキサ(ヒドロキシステアリン酸/ステアリン酸/ロジン酸)ジペンタエリスリチル(商品名「コスモール168ARV」、日清オイリオグループ(株)製)、セタノール(商品名「カルコール6870」、花王(株)製)、ミツロウ(商品名「脱臭紺印晒蜜蝋」、三木化学工業(株)製)を、それぞれ用いた。グリセリン、BGは、実施例21と同じものを用いた。スクワランは実施例23と同じものを用いた。
区分A、Bの成分をそれぞれ70℃の加熱状態で撹拌混合した後に、区分Aに区分Bを投入してホモミキサーにて乳化、分散した。30℃まで冷却した後に区分Cを投入し、均一になるまで撹拌することによって水中油型乳化保湿クリームを得た。
実施例24の水中油型乳化保湿クリームは、肌なじみがよく、保湿感が長時間持続し、保存安定性が良好なものであった。
Claims (19)
- 下記の成分(A)と、成分(B)と、成分(C)とをエステル化反応することにより得られるオリゴエステルであって、
前記エステル化反応が、前記成分(A)1モルに対して、前記成分(B)を0.65~0.8モルと、前記成分(C)を1.2~1.7モルとをエステル化反応するものであり、
前記オリゴエステルは、酸価が5mgKOH/g以下であり、ケン化価が420~510mgKOH/gであり、水酸基価が60mgKOH/g以下であることを特徴とする、オリゴエステル。
成分(A):グリセリン。
成分(B):炭素数2~12の二価カルボン酸。
成分(C):カプリル酸、エチルヘキサン酸、イソノナン酸、イソパルミチン酸、及びイソステアリン酸からなる群より選択される1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。 - 下記の成分(A)と、成分(B)と、成分(C)と、成分(D)をエステル化反応することにより得られるオリゴエステルであって、
前記エステル化反応が、前記成分(A)1モルに対して、前記成分(B)を0.65~0.8モルと、前記成分(C)と前記成分(D)の合計量を1.2~1.7モルとをエステル化反応するものであり、
前記エステル化反応に用いられる前記成分(C)と前記成分(D)との質量比が、成分(C):成分(D)=99.9:0.1~10:90であり、
前記オリゴエステルは、酸価が5mgKOH/g以下であり、ケン化価が420~510mgKOH/gであり、水酸基価が60mgKOH/g以下であることを特徴とする、オリゴエステル。
成分(A):グリセリン。
成分(B):炭素数2~12の二価カルボン酸。
成分(C):カプリル酸、エチルヘキサン酸、イソノナン酸、イソパルミチン酸、及びイソステアリン酸からなる群より選択される1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。
成分(D):炭素数10~24の直鎖飽和脂肪酸から選ばれる1種又は2種以上の脂肪酸。 - 前記成分(D)が、カプリン酸である、請求項2に記載のオリゴエステル。
- 前記成分(C)が、カプリル酸である、請求項1または2に記載のオリゴエステル。
- 前記成分(B)が、コハク酸である、請求項1または2に記載のオリゴエステル。
- 請求項1または2に記載のオリゴエステルを含有する、油性組成物。
- さらに、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する、請求項6に記載の油性組成物。
- 固形物である、請求項6に記載の油性組成物。
- 半固形状である、請求項6に記載の油性組成物。
- 請求項1または2に記載のオリゴエステルを含有する、化粧料。
- さらに、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する、請求項10に記載の化粧料。
- 前記化粧料が、口唇化粧料である、請求項10に記載の化粧料。
- 請求項1または2に記載のオリゴエステルを含有する、文房具。
- クレヨンである、請求項13に記載の文房具。
- グリセリン1モルに対して、0.65~0.8モルのコハク酸と1.2~1.7モルの脂肪酸とをエステル化反応してオリゴエステルを製造し、
前記脂肪酸が、カプリル酸及びカプリン酸を含有し、カプリル酸とカプリン酸との質量比が、カプリル酸:カプリン酸=99:1~10:90であり、
前記オリゴエステルは、酸価が10mgKOH/g以下であり、ケン化価が420~510KOH/gであり、水酸基価が60mgKOH/g以下であることを特徴とする、オリゴエステルの製造方法。 - 請求項1または2に記載のオリゴエステルからなる硬度維持剤であって、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する油性固形物の硬度維持剤。
- 請求項1または2に記載のオリゴエステルを、25℃で固体であるワックスを含有する油性固形物に含有させることによって、油性固形物の硬度を維持する方法。
- 請求項1または2に記載のオリゴエステルを化粧料に含有させることによって、化粧料の塗布面のつやを向上させる方法。
- 前記化粧料が、口唇化粧料である、請求項18に記載のつやを向上させる方法。
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WO2025041528A1 (ja) * | 2023-08-18 | 2025-02-27 | 日清オイリオグループ株式会社 | 油性固形化粧料、及び油性固形化粧料の硬度向上剤 |
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