WO2023123183A1 - Composition of oils for caring for keratin material - Google Patents

Composition of oils for caring for keratin material Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023123183A1
WO2023123183A1 PCT/CN2021/142972 CN2021142972W WO2023123183A1 WO 2023123183 A1 WO2023123183 A1 WO 2023123183A1 CN 2021142972 W CN2021142972 W CN 2021142972W WO 2023123183 A1 WO2023123183 A1 WO 2023123183A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
component
oil
oils
composition according
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PCT/CN2021/142972
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Lili Yang
Lingchao KONG
Wi Soon CHIA
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2021/142972 priority Critical patent/WO2023123183A1/en
Priority to FR2200979A priority patent/FR3131534A1/en
Publication of WO2023123183A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023123183A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition of various oils for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of at least two specific oils.
  • Keratin materials are present widely on surface of human bodies, e.g., skin, scalp and hair. Many people have for a long time sought to fresh the body surface, so as to feel comfortable in daily life and work. Amongst others, the feeling of sticky/greasy, in particular that from hair, is particularly concerned by many people. Accordingly, various products are developed to deal with the sticky or greasy feeling of person.
  • the scalp and hair are particularly readily to suffer from grease.
  • Various formulations have been developed for the sticky or greasy feeling, including those provided in a separate form, e.g., lotion, spray and the like, and those incorporated into conventional products for hair and/or for scalp, e.g., shampoo, leave-on and/or rinse-off conditioner/oil.
  • keratin material in particular the hair is cleansed and treated with many cosmetic regiments to improve the sticky or greasy feeling, e.g., by shampoo.
  • These various regiments can remove the hair’s natural oils and impart structural damage to the hair.
  • shampoos are often formulated with anionic surfactants that primarily clean as opposed to condition the hair.
  • Anionic surfactants are highly effective for removing dirt, pollution, build-up, etc., from the hair, but they also remove sebum, a naturally occurring oily or waxy matter that automatically lubricates hair.
  • Conditioner compositions are used to improve or return to the hair its natural luster, shine, smoothness, and softness, for example, after shampooing the hair and/or after subjecting the hair to a chemical treatment.
  • Conditioner compositions are often applied as cream-like emulsions, or lotions, and typically include one or more cationic compound, in form of either rinse-off or leave-on product.
  • Other hair-care products may also be procued into a leave-on product. As being present on hair for a long time, the requirement on a leave-on product may particularly focus on the achievement of the desired function thereof without affecting adversely the hair..
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a composition for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, which can deliver smoothness with light sensory.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a composition for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, which will not adversely bring stickiness and greasiness feeling.
  • the inventors have discovered surprisingly that when specific non-volatile oil and specific volatile oil are used in a combination, the objects above can be satisfied.
  • the non-volatile oil may comprise silicone, e.g., ⁇ , ⁇ -aminosilicone, preferably ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, especially one having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s.
  • the non-volatile silicone according to the present invention is free of phenyl group.
  • the non-volatile oil may also comprise hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from synthetic esters.
  • the volatile oil can comprise or be selected from the group consisting of volatile silicone and C8-C16 isoparaffin.
  • the volatile silicone can comprise C6-C10 alkyl methicone, e.g., caprylyl methicone.
  • the C8-C16 isoparaffin is preferably a C8-C14 isoparaffin.
  • the present invention provides a composition of oils for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising the components of:
  • the component A) may be:
  • the component B) may be:
  • At least one volatile oil selected from the group consisting of components B1) oil volatile silicone and B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin.
  • the component B1) may be a C6-C10 alkyl methicone, e.g., caprylyl methicone.
  • composition of oils of the invention may comprise the components of:
  • A)at least one non-volatile oil comprising component A1) at least one non-volatile amino silicone oil, comprising ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s; and
  • composition of the present invention can be in the form of oil gel or oil balm.
  • a further object of the present invention is to provide use of a combination of at least one non-volatile silicone oil comprising ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone and at least one volatile silicone oil comprising C8-C16 isoparaffin to be used on human body, especially on keratin material, e.g., on hair.
  • the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin, in particular the hair.
  • the “keratin material” according to the present invention is the skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes.
  • the keratin material according to the present invention is hair.
  • oil means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • silicon oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits inclusive.
  • non-volatile means an oil of which the vapour pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • the present invention provides a composition of oils for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising the components of:
  • A) at least one non-volatile silicone oil comprising ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s; and
  • composition of oils according to the present invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil as component A) .
  • the non-volatile oil as component A) may comprise a non-volatile amino silicone oil as component A1) .
  • a silicone may be for example an ⁇ , ⁇ -aminosilicone, preferably ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, especially one having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s.
  • Component A1 non-volatile amino silicone oil
  • silicone and “silicone oil” can be used exchangeable to one another.
  • the non-volatile amino silicone oil for use as component A1) can be preferably free of phenyl group, i.e., a non-phenyl silicone.
  • non-phenyl denotes a compound not bearing any phenyl substituents.
  • Silicone is usually used as an oil for various cosmetic purpose. Amongst others, an amino silicone is particularly interested.
  • the term “amino silicone” is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group (i.e., a quaternized group) .
  • a silicone may bear the amine group on the skeleton chain in the molecule, called as an amino-terminal silicone, or bear the amine group on the pendent chain, called as an amino-grafted silicone.
  • Amino silicones are described, for example, in US2011/0155163 and US2011/155164, both of which are herein incorporated by reference.
  • Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, quaternium-80, methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone
  • the amino silicone is preferably an amino-terminal silicone.
  • another group of preferable amino silicone according to the present invention may comprise: amino bispropyl dimethicone; aminopropyl dimethicone; amodimethicone; bis-aminopropyl dimethicone; bis-aminopropyl/ethoxy aminopropyl dimethicone; bis-butyloxyamodimethicone/peg-60 copolymer; bis-isobutyl peg-14/amodimethicone copolymer; bis-isobutyl peg-15/amodimethicone copolymer.
  • a bis-amino-terminal silicone is preferably useful, i.e., an amino silicone having both terminal groups of amino groups.
  • such a bis-amino-terminal silicone is called as a bis-amino silicone, or called as ⁇ , ⁇ -aminosilicone, unless otherwise indicated specifically.
  • the amino group in the ⁇ , ⁇ -aminosilicone useful can be further modified with an alkyl or alkoxyl, preferably a (C1-C6) alkyl or alkoxyl, or preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl or alkoxyl, e.g., propyl.
  • bis-aminopropyl dimethicone bis-aminopropyl/ethoxy aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone may be preferred.
  • non-volatile silicone oil useful for the invention may be an ⁇ , ⁇ -aminoalkyl silicone, preferably ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, e.g., bis-aminopropyl dimethicone.
  • the non-volatile silicone may preferably have a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s.
  • component A1 is particularly beneficial for the smoothness feeling of keratin materials.
  • ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone especially one having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s, is of particular benefit.
  • the molecule of component A1) is free of phenyl group.
  • component A) especially an ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, e.g., bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, preferably having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s, is used as an essential component fot the composition of oils, which can bring better smoothness, as well as good lightness, stability and so on.
  • component A) especially an ⁇ , ⁇ -amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, e.g., bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, preferably having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s, is used as an essential component fot the composition of oils, which can bring better smoothness, as well as good lightness, stability and so on.
  • the component A1) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-10 wt%, preferably 0.1wt%-5wt%, or preferably 0.1 wt%-3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  • the component A) may also comprise non-volatile synthetic oils useful as component A2) , besides component A1) .
  • the non-volatile synthetic oil may be for example a synthetic ester of formula R 1 COOR 2 .
  • R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 +R 2 ⁇ 14, or ⁇ 16.
  • the oil of formula R 1 COOR 2 for use as the synthetic oil may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-esters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • oil of formula R 1 COOR 2 mention can be made of purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , diisopropyl adipate, octyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate,
  • the oil of formula R 1 COOR 2 may be selected from esters of a C6-C24 monocarboxylic acid with a C4-C20 monoalcohol, at least one of the acid and the alcohol being branched or unsaturated; or preferably selected from esters of a C4-C10 (preferably C6-C10) monocarboxylic acid with a C4-C10 (preferably C6-C10) alcohol, at least one of the acid and the alcohol being branched.
  • the oil of formula R 1 COOR 2 may be a monoester of a saturated branched C6-C10 monocarboxylic acid with a saturated branched C6-C10 alcohol.
  • octyl isononanoate, and in particular isononyl isononanoate can thus be especially mentioned.
  • the component A2) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-40 wt%, preferably 0.1wt%-30 wt%, or preferably 0.1 wt%-20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  • the component A) may also comprise additional non-volatile silicone oils useful as component A3) , besides components A1) and A2) .
  • the additional non-volatile silicone oil is different from the “amino silicone” useful as component A1) according to the present invention.
  • examples of the additional non-volatile silicone oil can be made to polydialkylsiloxane family with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, such as oils with a viscosity in the range 0.2 m 2 /s to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, for example oils from the DC200 series from DOW CORNING, in particular that with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst, from the SILBIONE 70047 series, more particularly 70,047 V 500,000 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE, polydialkylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups such as dimethiconol such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE.
  • polydialkylsiloxane family with terminal trimethylsilyl groups such as oils with a viscosity in the range 0.2 m 2 /s to 2.5 m 2 /s
  • the component A3) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-12 wt%, or preferably 3 wt%-9 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  • Component B) volatile oil
  • composition of oils according to the present invention may comprise at least one volatile oil as component B) .
  • the component B) is at least one volatile selected from the group consisting of: components B1) oil volatile non-phenyl silicone and B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin.
  • Component B1) volatile non-phenyl silicone oil
  • silicone oils are conventionally known to be non-volatile, whilst some non-phenyl silicone oils are known to be volatile, even with relatively low evaporation rate.
  • examples comprise volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s) , and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • Such volatile non-phenyl silicone oils may be an alkylsilicone.
  • the “alkyl” moiety in the volatile non-phenyl alkylsilicone has a number of carbon atoms similar to the R 1 and/or R 2 groups in the oil of formula R 1 COOR 2 useful as component A2) , the desired smoothness, lightness and shine of hair can be particularly satisfied, which may thanks to the better compatibility between such an alkylsilicone and the oil of formula R 1 COOR 2 .
  • the typical volatile silicone oil may be C6-C10 alkylmethicone.
  • Caprylyl methicone can be provided as an example of C6-C10 alkylmethicone.
  • Commercial product of caprylyl methicone mention can be made of that sold under the tradename DOW CORNING FZ-3196 by the company DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) .
  • the component B1) in particular caprylyl methicone, may be preferably used in a relatively higher amount.
  • a relatively higher amount of component B1) in particular caprylyl methicone, can benefit the lightness and smoothness of hair. Accordingly, it is important for the invention to use component B1) , in particular caprylyl methicone, in an appropriate amount.
  • the component B1) in particular caprylyl methicone, may be present in an amount ranging from 10 wt%-35 wt%, preferably 15wt%-25 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  • the component B) of the composition of oils according to the present invention may optionally comprises additional volatile oils, e.g., an oil selected from the group consisting of C8-C16 isoparaffins, as component B2) , which serves generally as a solvent.
  • additional volatile oils e.g., an oil selected from the group consisting of C8-C16 isoparaffins, as component B2) , which serves generally as a solvent.
  • Hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes are known to be conventional volatile oils and can be used as component B2) alone or as a mixture thereof.
  • Examples may be made of isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names or
  • C8-C16 isoparaffins are usually used as organic solvents, e.g., used as co-solvent in a mixture of organic solvents with other conventional organic solvent (s) .
  • the component B2) e.g., isododecane
  • the composition is free substantially of, or free of, other conventional solvents.
  • other conventional solvents e.g., hydrogenated polyisobutene conventionally used in a hair product, if present, comprise no more than 10 wt%, or no more than 5 wt%, preferably no more than 1%, of the composition of oils.
  • the composition of oils according to the present invention may use a C8-C16 isoparaffin or a mixture thereof, e.g., isododecane, as the sole solvent.
  • the component B2) in particular isododecane, may be present in an amount ranging from 40 wt%-95 wt%, preferably 50wt%-95 wt%, or preferably 55wt%-90 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  • component B1 a volatile non-phenyl silicone oil and B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin
  • component B2 a volatile non-phenyl silicone oil and B2 C8-C16 isoparaffin
  • the composition of oils according to the present invention comprises both components B1) and B2) .
  • Component C) vegetable oil
  • composition of oils according to the present invention may further comprise at least one vegetable oil, especially of triglyceride type for use component C) .
  • the vegetable oils of triglyceride type are selected from sunflower seed oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, olive oil; avocado oil; argan oil; camellia oil, palm oil, maize germ oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheatgerm oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the vegetable oils of triglyceride type are selected sunflower seed oil, jojoba seed oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, coconut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, and avocado oil.
  • helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil sold under the name REFINED SUNFLOWER OIL by the company AAK KAMANI PRIVATE
  • SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL sold under the name JD FFL JOJOBA GOLDEN OIL by the company JOJOBA DESERT
  • cocos nucifera (coconut) oil sold under the name ACTIVATED VIRGIN COCONUT OIL by the company BIOTROPICS
  • ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL sold under the name LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN BE LS 9779 by the company BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION
  • prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil sold under the name APRICOT KERNEL OIL REFINED DAC by the company GUSTAV HEESS.
  • the vegetable oil of triglyceride type may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt%to 15 wt%, preferably from 1 wt%to 10 wt%, or preferably from 3 wt%to 8 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  • all or substantially all of the useful components are each free of phenyl.
  • the useful components especially those useful as components A) and/or B) , such as for components A1) , A2) , A3) , B1) and/or B2) , are each free of phenyl.
  • the presence of phenyl in some components e.g., in a silicone, may usually benefit the effect of shininess.
  • a phenyl-containing compound may often be non-environmental-friendly.
  • the inventors of the present invention have discovered surprisingly that using the composition of oils according to the present invention comprising the specific combination of the components A) and B) , the desired shininess can be still achieved.
  • the composition of oils consists essentially of, or consists of components A1) , A2) , A3) , B1) and B2) described here. According to an embodiment of the present invention, it is preferable that the composition of oils consists essentially of, or consists of components A1) , A2) , B1) and B2) described here.
  • composition of oils of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fragrances, fillers, antioxidant (for example, tocopherols, such as d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol) , and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for instance, fragrances, fillers, antioxidant (for example, tocopherols, such as d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol) , and mixtures thereof.
  • antioxidant for example, tocopherols, such as d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol
  • the composition according to the present invention can be essentially in an anhydrous form.
  • water or moisture is preferably avoided to be included in the composition; however, it is easily understood by those skilled that water may not be 100%removed.
  • water may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, may be incorporated during the production, or may be absorbed from ambient during production and/or storage.
  • anhydrous means absence of water, or the presence of water in such an amount those skilled can determine it as free or substantially free of water.
  • an “anhydrous” composition according to the present invention may comprise less than 2%, preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • an “anhydrous” composition according to the present invention does not comprise a detectable amount of water, wherein the “detectable amount” means an amount can be detected by a device conventionally used in the art to measure the water content.
  • the components A) to C) are subjected to a water removal step before being incorporated into the composition of the present invention.
  • the technical means for the water removal is not particularly limited, as long as the composition obtained is "anhydrous" .
  • composition of oils of the present invention can be in the form of oil gel or oil balm.
  • compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.
  • the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising applying the composition of oils according to the present invention to the skin, in particular the hair.
  • compositions/formulas described below are expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
  • composition according to invention formula (Inv. ) 1 and comparative formula (Comp. ) 1-4 were prepared according to the contents given in Table 1.
  • compositions of oils listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of oils of invention formula 1 as an example: mixing the components to obtain a mixture and homogenizing the mixture by stirring.
  • compositions according to invention formula (Inv. ) 1 and comparative formula (Comp. ) 1-4 were evaluated for the hair conditioning performances.
  • compositions A-E with different amounts of component B1) were prepared according to the contents given in Table 3-1.
  • the scores were provided twice, 0 hour (instant) and 4 hours after applying the compositions.
  • compositions F-G with different amounts of component B2) were prepared according to the contents given in Table 4-1.
  • composition D served as the benchmark.

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Abstract

Provided is a composition of oils for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising the components of: A) at least one non-volatile oil comprising component A1) at least one non-volatile amino silicone oil, comprising α,ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000 mPa/s; and B) at least one volatile oil selected from the group consisting of: components B1) volatile silicone and B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin.

Description

Composition of Oils for Caring for Keratin Material Technical field
The present invention relates to a composition of various oils for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair. The present invention also relates to a use of at least two specific oils.
Background
Keratin materials are present widely on surface of human bodies, e.g., skin, scalp and hair. Many people have for a long time sought to fresh the body surface, so as to feel comfortable in daily life and work. Amongst others, the feeling of sticky/greasy, in particular that from hair, is particularly concerned by many people. Accordingly, various products are developed to deal with the sticky or greasy feeling of person.
In the keratin materials on body surface, the scalp and hair are particularly readily to suffer from grease. Various formulations have been developed for the sticky or greasy feeling, including those provided in a separate form, e.g., lotion, spray and the like, and those incorporated into conventional products for hair and/or for scalp, e.g., shampoo, leave-on and/or rinse-off conditioner/oil.
Amongst other means, keratin material, in particular the hair is cleansed and treated with many cosmetic regiments to improve the sticky or greasy feeling, e.g., by shampoo. These various regiments however can remove the hair’s natural oils and impart structural damage to the hair. For instance, shampoos are often formulated with anionic surfactants that primarily clean as opposed to condition the hair. Anionic surfactants are highly effective for removing dirt, pollution, build-up, etc., from the hair, but they also remove sebum, a naturally occurring oily or waxy matter that automatically lubricates hair.
Conditioner compositions are used to improve or return to the hair its natural luster, shine, smoothness, and softness, for example, after shampooing the hair and/or after subjecting the hair to a chemical treatment. Conditioner compositions are often applied as cream-like emulsions, or lotions, and typically include one or more cationic compound, in form of either rinse-off or leave-on product. Other hair-care products may also be procued into a leave-on product. As being present on hair for a long time, the requirement on a leave-on product may particularly focus on the achievement of the desired function  thereof without affecting adversely the hair..
There is thus still needed in the art to develop new compositions for conditioning keratin materials to satisfy multiple demands by consumers, especially the balance of the non-greasy feeling, shine, and smoothness with light sensory.
Summary of the invention
An object of the present invention is to provide a composition for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, which can deliver smoothness with light sensory.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a composition for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, which will not adversely bring stickiness and greasiness feeling.
The inventors have discovered surprisingly that when specific non-volatile oil and specific volatile oil are used in a combination, the objects above can be satisfied.
Optionally, the non-volatile oil may comprise silicone, e.g., α, ω-aminosilicone, preferably α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, especially one having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s. Preferably, the non-volatile silicone according to the present invention is free of phenyl group. The non-volatile oil may also comprise hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from synthetic esters.
Optionally, the volatile oil can comprise or be selected from the group consisting of volatile silicone and C8-C16 isoparaffin. The volatile silicone can comprise C6-C10 alkyl methicone, e.g., caprylyl methicone. The C8-C16 isoparaffin is preferably a C8-C14 isoparaffin.
Accordingly, in one aspect, the present invention provides a composition of oils for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising the components of:
A) . at least one non-volatile oil; and
B) . at least one volatile oil.
According to an exemplary embodiment, the component A) may be:
A1) at least one non-volatile amino silicone oil, comprising α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s.
According to an exemplary embodiment, the component B) may be:
at least one volatile oil selected from the group consisting of components B1) oil volatile silicone and B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin.
According to an embodiment, the component B1) may be a C6-C10 alkyl methicone, e.g., caprylyl methicone.
According to an exemplary embodiment, the composition of oils of the invention may comprise the components of:
A)at least one non-volatile oil comprising component A1) at least one non-volatile amino silicone oil, comprising α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s; and
B)at least one volatile oil selected from the group consisting of: components B1) volatile silicone and B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin.
The composition of the present invention can be in the form of oil gel or oil balm.
A further object of the present invention is to provide use of a combination of at least one non-volatile silicone oil comprising α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone and at least one volatile silicone oil comprising C8-C16 isoparaffin to be used on human body, especially on keratin material, e.g., on hair.
In a still further aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the skin, in particular the hair.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
Embodiments of the invention
Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one" , unless otherwise mentioned. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined with “comprising” or the like should be understood to encompass a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting substantially of” and a preferable embodiment defined with “consisting of” .
Throughout the description, including the claims, the “keratin material” according to the present invention is the skin, hair, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails,  lips or mucous membranes. Preferably, the keratin material according to the present invention is hair.
In the application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, contents, parts and percentages are expressed on a weight basis.
Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of components and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" , with conventionally known meaning in the art, e.g., within 10%of the indicated number (such as "about 10%" means 9%-11 %and "about 2%" means 1.8%-2.2%) .
The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.
The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2/min, limits inclusive.
The term "non-volatile" means an oil of which the vapour pressure at 25℃ and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
According to the first aspect, the present invention provides a composition of oils for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising the components of:
A) at least one non-volatile silicone oil, comprising α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s; and
B) C8-C16 isoparaffin, preferably caprylyl methicone.
Component A) , non-volatile oil
The composition of oils according to the present invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil as component A) .
The non-volatile oil as component A) may comprise a non-volatile amino silicone oil as component A1) . Such a silicone may be for example an α, ω-aminosilicone, preferably α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, especially one having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s.
Component A1) , non-volatile amino silicone oil
For the purpose of the invention, the terms of “silicone” and “silicone oil” can be used exchangeable to one another.
The non-volatile amino silicone oil for use as component A1) can be preferably free of phenyl group, i.e., a non-phenyl silicone. The term "non-phenyl" denotes a compound not bearing any phenyl substituents.
Silicone is usually used as an oil for various cosmetic purpose. Amongst others, an amino silicone is particularly interested. The term “amino silicone” is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group (i.e., a quaternized group) .
A silicone may bear the amine group on the skeleton chain in the molecule, called as an amino-terminal silicone, or bear the amine group on the pendent chain, called as an amino-grafted silicone.
Amino silicones are described, for example, in US2011/0155163 and US2011/155164, both of which are herein incorporated by reference.
Non-limiting examples include amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, trimethylsilyl amodimethicone, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, PEG-40/PPG-8 methylaminopropyl hydroxypropyl dimethicone copolymer, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, quaternium-80, methoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimethicone, silicone quaternium-22, bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, PEG-7 amodimethicone, silicone quaternium-8, visamino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl  dimethicone, polysilicone-19, silicone quaternium-18, and mixtures thereof.
According to an embodiment of the present invention, the amino silicone is preferably an amino-terminal silicone.
Accordingly, another group of preferable amino silicone according to the present invention may comprise: amino bispropyl dimethicone; aminopropyl dimethicone; amodimethicone; bis-aminopropyl dimethicone; bis-aminopropyl/ethoxy aminopropyl dimethicone; bis-butyloxyamodimethicone/peg-60 copolymer; bis-isobutyl peg-14/amodimethicone copolymer; bis-isobutyl peg-15/amodimethicone copolymer.
Without being limited to any known theory, it is believed that a bis-amino-terminal silicone is preferably useful, i.e., an amino silicone having both terminal groups of amino groups. For the purpose of the present invention, such a bis-amino-terminal silicone is called as a bis-amino silicone, or called as α, ω-aminosilicone, unless otherwise indicated specifically. In particular, the amino group in the α, ω-aminosilicone useful can be further modified with an alkyl or alkoxyl, preferably a (C1-C6) alkyl or alkoxyl, or preferably a (C1-C4) alkyl or alkoxyl, e.g., propyl.
Amongst others, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone; bis-aminopropyl/ethoxy aminopropyl dimethicone, bis-isobutyl/PEG/PPG-20/35/amodimethicone copolymer, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-amodimethicone, bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone may be preferred.
Accordingly, the non-volatile silicone oil useful for the invention may be an α, ω-aminoalkyl silicone, preferably α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, e.g., bis-aminopropyl dimethicone.
For the purpose of the invention, the non-volatile silicone may preferably have a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s.
Without being limited by any known theory, it is believed that the incorporation of component A1) is particularly beneficial for the smoothness feeling of keratin materials. Further, α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, especially one having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s, is of particular benefit.
Preferably, the molecule of component A1) is free of phenyl group.
Then, according to an embodiment of the present invention, despite the presence of any other non-volatile oil used as component A) or not, the use of component A) ,  especially an α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, e.g., bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, preferably having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s, is used as an essential component fot the composition of oils, which can bring better smoothness, as well as good lightness, stability and so on.
Advantageously, the component A1) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-10 wt%, preferably 0.1wt%-5wt%, or preferably 0.1 wt%-3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
Component A2) , non-volatile synthetic oil
The component A) may also comprise non-volatile synthetic oils useful as component A2) , besides component A1) .
The non-volatile synthetic oil may be for example a synthetic ester of formula R 1COOR 2.
In formula R 1COOR 2, R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1+R 2≥14, or≥16.
The oil of formula R 1COOR 2 for use as the synthetic oil may be chosen from mono-, di-, tri-, tetra-esters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of oil of formula R 1COOR 2, mention can be made of purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , diisopropyl adipate, octyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate.
Preferably, the oil of formula R 1COOR 2 may be selected from esters of a C6-C24 monocarboxylic acid with a C4-C20 monoalcohol, at least one of the acid and the alcohol being branched or unsaturated; or preferably selected from esters of a C4-C10 (preferably C6-C10) monocarboxylic acid with a C4-C10 (preferably C6-C10) alcohol, at least one of the acid and the alcohol being branched.
Accordingly, in an embodiment of the invention, the oil of formula R 1COOR 2 may be a monoester of a saturated branched C6-C10 monocarboxylic acid with a saturated  branched C6-C10 alcohol. Among the examples listed above, octyl isononanoate, and in particular isononyl isononanoate can thus be especially mentioned.
Advantageously, the component A2) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-40 wt%, preferably 0.1wt%-30 wt%, or preferably 0.1 wt%-20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
Component A3) , additional non-volatile silicone oil
The component A) may also comprise additional non-volatile silicone oils useful as component A3) , besides components A1) and A2) .
The additional non-volatile silicone oil is different from the “amino silicone” useful as component A1) according to the present invention.
According to an embodiment of the present invention, examples of the additional non-volatile silicone oil can be made to polydialkylsiloxane family with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, such as oils with a viscosity in the range 0.2 m 2/s to 2.5 m 2/s at 25℃, for example oils from the DC200 series from DOW CORNING, in particular that with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst, from the SILBIONE 70047 series, more particularly 70,047 V 500,000 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE, polydialkylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups such as dimethiconol such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as SILBIONE 70641 V 200 oil provided by the supplier RHODIA CHIMIE.
Advantageously, the component A3) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-12 wt%, or preferably 3 wt%-9 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
Component B) , volatile oil
The composition of oils according to the present invention may comprise at least one volatile oil as component B) .
For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferred that the component B) is at least one volatile selected from the group consisting of: components B1) oil volatile non-phenyl silicone and B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin.
Component B1) , volatile non-phenyl silicone oil
Many silicone oils are conventionally known to be non-volatile, whilst some non-phenyl silicone oils are known to be volatile, even with relatively low evaporation rate. Examples comprise volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity≤8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10 -6 m 2/s) , and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Such volatile non-phenyl silicone oils may be an alkylsilicone.
Without being limited with any known theory, it is deduced that when the “alkyl” moiety in the volatile non-phenyl alkylsilicone has a number of carbon atoms similar to the R 1 and/or R 2 groups in the oil of formula R 1COOR 2 useful as component A2) , the desired smoothness, lightness and shine of hair can be particularly satisfied, which may thanks to the better compatibility between such an alkylsilicone and the oil of formula R 1COOR 2. Accordingly, amongst others, the typical volatile silicone oil may be C6-C10 alkylmethicone.
Caprylyl methicone can be provided as an example of C6-C10 alkylmethicone. As commercial product of caprylyl methicone, mention can be made of that sold under the tradename DOW CORNING FZ-3196 by the company DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) .
Without being limited with any known theory, it is believed that with the proviso that the functions of other active components are not inhibited/masked significantly, the component B1) , in particular caprylyl methicone, may be preferably used in a relatively higher amount. For example, for a leave-on hair product, a relatively higher amount of component B1) , in particular caprylyl methicone, can benefit the lightness and smoothness of hair. Accordingly, it is important for the invention to use component B1) , in particular caprylyl methicone, in an appropriate amount.
Thus, advantageously, the component B1) , in particular caprylyl methicone, may be present in an amount ranging from 10 wt%-35 wt%, preferably 15wt%-25 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
Component B2) , C8-C16 isoparaffin
The component B) of the composition of oils according to the present invention may optionally comprises additional volatile oils, e.g., an oil selected from the group  consisting of C8-C16 isoparaffins, as component B2) , which serves generally as a solvent.
Hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) are known to be conventional volatile oils and can be used as component B2) alone or as a mixture thereof. Examples may be made of isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names 
Figure PCTCN2021142972-appb-000001
or 
Figure PCTCN2021142972-appb-000002
C8-C16 isoparaffins are usually used as organic solvents, e.g., used as co-solvent in a mixture of organic solvents with other conventional organic solvent (s) . In contrast, when a solvent is used for the present invention, the component B2) , e.g., isododecane, is generally used in a significant amount, particularly in an amount of 40 wt%or more, relatively to the composition of oils according to the present invention. Without being limited with known theory, it is believed that although serving as a solvent, the presence of a C8-C16 isoparaffin, e.g., isododecane, as well as the amount thereof, can substantively affect the effect of the composition, e.g., lightness and conditioning effects of hair treated by the composition of oils.
According to an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the composition is free substantially of, or free of, other conventional solvents. In other words, other conventional solvents, e.g., hydrogenated polyisobutene conventionally used in a hair product, if present, comprise no more than 10 wt%, or no more than 5 wt%, preferably no more than 1%, of the composition of oils. In other words, the composition of oils according to the present invention may use a C8-C16 isoparaffin or a mixture thereof, e.g., isododecane, as the sole solvent.
Thus, advantageously, the component B2) , in particular isododecane, may be present in an amount ranging from 40 wt%-95 wt%, preferably 50wt%-95 wt%, or preferably 55wt%-90 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
Concurrent use of components B1) and B2)
The inventors have discovered surprisingly that when at least two specific oils, i.e., component B1) , a volatile non-phenyl silicone oil and B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin, can be particularly advantageous. Without being limited by any known theory, it is believed that the concurrent use of such components B1) and B2) can result in a composition with  particularly advantageous lightness, as well as desirable smoothness, for a hair product.
Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of oils according to the present invention comprises both components B1) and B2) .
Component C) , vegetable oil
The composition of oils according to the present invention may further comprise at least one vegetable oil, especially of triglyceride type for use component C) .
Preferably, the vegetable oils of triglyceride type are selected from sunflower seed oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, olive oil; avocado oil; argan oil; camellia oil, palm oil, maize germ oil, cottonseed oil, peanut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheatgerm oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, and also mixtures thereof.
Or preferably, the vegetable oils of triglyceride type are selected sunflower seed oil, jojoba seed oil, argania spinosa kernel oil, coconut oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, and avocado oil.
As commercial product of vegetable oil of triglyceride type, mention can be made of helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil sold under the name REFINED SUNFLOWER OIL by the company AAK KAMANI PRIVATE, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL sold under the name JD FFL JOJOBA GOLDEN OIL by the company JOJOBA DESERT, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil sold under the name ACTIVATED VIRGIN COCONUT OIL by the company BIOTROPICS, ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL sold under the name LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN BE LS 9779 by the company BASF BEAUTY CARE SOLUTION, and prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil sold under the name APRICOT KERNEL OIL REFINED DAC by the company GUSTAV HEESS.
Advantageously, the vegetable oil of triglyceride type may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt%to 15 wt%, preferably from 1 wt%to 10 wt%, or preferably from 3 wt%to 8 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
According to an embodiment of the present invention, it is preferable that all or substantially all of the useful components, especially those useful as components A) and/or B) , such as for components A1) , A2) , A3) , B1) and/or B2) , are each free of phenyl.  For a hair product, especially a hair oil, the presence of phenyl in some components, e.g., in a silicone, may usually benefit the effect of shininess. However, it is also known that a phenyl-containing compound may often be non-environmental-friendly. In contrast, the inventors of the present invention have discovered surprisingly that using the composition of oils according to the present invention comprising the specific combination of the components A) and B) , the desired shininess can be still achieved.
According to an embodiment of the present invention, it is preferable that the composition of oils consists essentially of, or consists of components A1) , A2) , A3) , B1) and B2) described here. According to an embodiment of the present invention, it is preferable that the composition of oils consists essentially of, or consists of components A1) , A2) , B1) and B2) described here.
Adjuvants or additives
The composition of oils of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fragrances, fillers, antioxidant (for example, tocopherols, such as d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, d-gamma-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol) , and mixtures thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely affect the final use of the composition of oils according to the present invention.
Anhydrous form
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention can be essentially in an anhydrous form. According to the present invention, water or moisture is preferably avoided to be included in the composition; however, it is easily understood by those skilled that water may not be 100%removed. For example, although water is not intentionally added, it may be provided by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual amount, may be incorporated during the production, or may be absorbed from ambient during production and/or storage.
Accordingly, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means absence of water, or the presence of water in such an amount those skilled can determine it as free or substantially free of water. For example, an "anhydrous" composition  according to the present invention may comprise less than 2%, preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, an "anhydrous" composition according to the present invention does not comprise a detectable amount of water, wherein the “detectable amount” means an amount can be detected by a device conventionally used in the art to measure the water content.
Optionally, the components A) to C) , as well as, if present, any other components, are subjected to a water removal step before being incorporated into the composition of the present invention. The technical means for the water removal is not particularly limited, as long as the composition obtained is "anhydrous" .
The composition of oils of the present invention can be in the form of oil gel or oil balm.
Method and use
The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.
According to an embodiment, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin material, in particular the hair, comprising applying the composition of oils according to the present invention to the skin, in particular the hair.
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
The ingredient amounts/concentrations in the compositions/formulas described below are expressed in %by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition/formula.
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed below.
Figure PCTCN2021142972-appb-000003
Example 1
Composition according to invention formula (Inv. ) 1 and comparative formula (Comp. ) 1-4 were prepared according to the contents given in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2021142972-appb-000004
Preparation process:
The compositions of oils listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of oils of invention formula 1 as an example: mixing the components to obtain a mixture and homogenizing the mixture by stirring.
Example 2
The compositions according to invention formula (Inv. ) 1 and comparative formula (Comp. ) 1-4 were evaluated for the hair conditioning performances.
4 trained experts of a panel evaluated the compositions through a half hair test. For each composition, the 4 trained experts applied the composition on the hair every day for 1 week. Scores of smoothness or lightness feeling before the application of the compositions were given as baselines, the scores of smoothness or lightness feeling after application of the compositions were given after 1 week, the mean scores were shown in Table 2.
Experts gave 0-5 scores to the smoothness or lightness feeling, where:
0 meant unchanged; and among 1-5 scores, the higher the score was, the more the smoothness or lightness feeling improved.
Meanwhile, the appearance of the compositioins were visually observed for a preliminary measurement of stability.
Table 2: Performances of compositions.
Performances Inv. 1 Comp. 1 Comp. 2 Comp. 3 Comp. 4
SENSORY–smooth 5 1 4 3 2
Sensory–lightness 5 3 1 2 4
Stability Ok Yellowish Ok Ok Ok
Example 3
Compositions A-E with different amounts of component B1) were prepared according to the contents given in Table 3-1.
Table 3-1
Figure PCTCN2021142972-appb-000005
4 trained experts of a panel evaluated the compositions following substantially the procedures described in Example 2. Experts gave scores from-2 to 2 to the smoothness feeling, representing comparison with hair applied with composition A (benchmark) , where:
Significantly more=2
Slight more=1
Parity=0
Slight less=-1
Significantly less=-2.
The scores were provided twice, 0 hour (instant) and 4 hours after applying the compositions.
Table 3-2
  0 hour 4hours
  Smooth Smooth
A 0 0
B 0.67 0.75
C 1.17 1.5
D 2 1.5
E 0 0.5
Example 4
Compositions F-G with different amounts of component B2) were prepared according to the contents given in Table 4-1.
Table 4-1
  D F G
NAME % % %
Ethanol   17.15  
HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE     17.15
ISODODECANE 57.15 40 40
DIMETHICONOL 6 6 6
ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 15 15 15
BIS-AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE 1.85 1.85 1.85
CAPRYLYL METHICONE 20 20 20
4 trained experts of a panel evaluated the compositions following substantially the procedures described in Example 3.
The scores were provided at 0 hour (instant) after applying the compositions, where composition D served as the benchmark.
Table 4-2
  Smooth Greasiness
D 0 0
F -0.33 -0.67
G 0.67 1.33
The results in Examples above showed that the improvement effects brought by the composition of oils according to the present invention were not only significant, but also long lasting.

Claims (17)

  1. An anhydrous composition of oils, comprising the components of:
    A) at least one non-volatile oil comprising component A1) at least one non-volatile amino silicone oil, comprising α, ω-aminoalkyl silicone having a viscosity of 500-50000 mPa/s, preferably 10000-15000mPa/s and being free of phenyl group; and
    B) at least one volatile oil comprising components B1) volatile non-phenyl silicone and, optionally, B2) C8-C16 isoparaffin;
    wherein the composition comprises less than 2%, preferably less than 0.5%by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition; or preferably, the composition does not comprise a detectable amount of water.
  2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the component A1) is an α, ω-amino (C1-C6) alkyl silicone, e.g., bis-aminopropyl dimethicone.
  3. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A1) is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-10 wt%, preferably 0.1wt%-5wt%, or preferably 0.1 wt%-3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A) further comprises a non-volatile synthetic oil used as component A2) .
  5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A2) is a synthetic ester of formula R 1COOR 2, selected from the group consisting of monoesters of a saturated branched C6-C10 monocarboxylic acid with a saturated branched C6-C10 alcohol, preferably octyl isononanoate and isononyl isononanoate.
  6. The composition according to claim 4 or 5, the component A2) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-40 wt%, preferably 0.1wt%-30 wt%, or preferably 0.1 wt%-20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A) further comprises an additional non-volatile silicone oil used as component A3) , which is different from the amino silicone involved by component A1) .
  8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component A3) is a polydialkylsiloxane with terminal trimethylsilyl groups,  polydialkylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups or polyalkylarylsiloxanes, preferably dimethiconol.
  9. The composition according to claim 4 or 5, the component A3) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%-12 wt%, or preferably 3 wt%-9 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile non-phenyl silicone of component B1) is a C6-C10 alkylmethicon, preferably caprylyl methicone.
  11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B1) is present in an amount ranging from 10 wt%-35 wt%, preferably 15wt%-25 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B2) is present, which is selected from the group consisting of isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the component B2) serves as a solvent of the composition, and the composition is free substantially of, or free of, other conventional solvents.
  14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the component B2) is present, and is present in an amount ranging from 40 wt%-95 wt%, preferably 50wt%-95 wt%, or preferably 55wt%-90 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition of oils.
  15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the components A) and/or B) , such as components A1) , A2) , A3) , B1) and/or B2) , are each free of phenyl.
  16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition of oils consists essentially of, or consists of components A1) , A2) , A3) , B1) and B2) ; or consists essentially of, or consists of components A1) , A2) , B1) and B2) .
  17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the components A) and B) , as well as, if present, any other components, are subjected to a water removal step before being incorporated into the composition.
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FR2954128B1 (en) 2009-12-23 2012-02-17 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC COMPOUND OF THE SILICON, AT LEAST ONE ANIONIC SURFACTANT AND AT LEAST ONE NONIONIC THICKENING AGENT AS WELL AS A PROCESS IMPLEMENTING THE COMPOSITION
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