WO2021121860A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a silicone resin and a particular amino silicone - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the combination of silicone resins and of amino silicones comprising amino end groups. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, using said cosmetic composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE: Cosmetic composition comprising a silicone resin and a particular amino silicone

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the combina tion of one or more silicone resins and of one or more particular amino silicones. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin mate rials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, using said cosmetic com- position.

Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. Thus, in order to remedy these drawbacks, it is now common practice to pursue haircare treatments involving the use of care compositions that make it possible to condition the hair after these treatments in order notably to give it sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and disentangling properties.

These haircare compositions may advantageously be compositions to be applied after shampooing and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or more or less thick creams.

To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, it is known practice to introduce therein cosmetic agents, known as conditioning agents, intended mainly to repair or to limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacking factors to which hair fibers are more or less repeatedly subjected. These conditioning agents may, of course, also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

With this aim, it has already been proposed to use cosmetically active organic com pounds, such as cationic polymers and silicones, as conditioning agents in cos- metic care compositions, such as hair conditioners, in order to give the hair satis factory cosmetic properties, in particular softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and an improved ability to be disentangled.

However, the use of these compounds in care and/or conditioning cosmetic com positions does not afford the hair entirely satisfactory and lasting cosmetic proper- ties. This is because these compositions generally provide cosmetic properties, such as the disentangling of wet and dry hair, suppleness, smoothness, sheen, coating and an individualized nature of the hair strands, which remain insufficient and which have a tendency to fade out after washing the hair with a standard sham poo. Conventional haircare compositions also have a tendency to weigh down the hair and to cover it with a brittle, squeaky or crackly film. After application, these com positions may leave a greasy and coarse feel, which consumers find unpleasant. In addition, these care compositions are not entirely satisfactory in terms of provid ing sheen to the head of hair.

Moreover, these compositions change substantially over time under normal stor age conditions. This is reflected by an unsatisfactory texture of the compositions.

Thus, there is a real need to provide a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which is notably capable of affording good con ditioning properties, notably in terms of sheen, while at the same time giving the keratin fibers a sensation of lightness and softness (or a glidant appearance). These properties must not only be satisfactory from the very first application, but also lasting between two shampoo washes.

The composition must also remain stable over time. It has been discovered, surprisingly, that a composition comprising the particular combination of at least one particular silicone resin as defined below and of at least one particular amino silicone as defined below, preferably in at least one organic solvent, makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

A subject of the present application is thus a cosmetic composition comprising:

- one or more silicone resins, and

- one or more amino silicones comprising amino end groups, preferably one or more amino silicones of formula (I):

wherein:

- the radicals R, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci- C4 alkyl group,

- the radicals R1 , R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hy drogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group, - x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and

- n is such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200 000 g/mol.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the appli cation to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined previously.

It is noted that the combination of a silicone resin with an amino silicone as defined below gives keratin fibers good conditioning properties, and notably suppleness, smoothness and most particularly sheen, while at the same time giving them a very good, non-greasy and non-laden, natural feel with a glidant coating. Thus, fibers treated with the composition according to the invention are not made heavy and have a light, pleasant sensation.

The composition according to the present invention also makes it possible to re store the natural sheen of damaged or degraded keratin fibers, or even to improve the sheen of keratin fibers that are not damaged or degraded.

In addition, the composition according to the invention can afford these condition ing properties on wet and dry hair, in rinse-out or leave-in application, with or with out supplying heat brought notably by means of a hairdryer and/or a straightening iron.

Moreover, the conditioning properties afforded by the composition according to the invention show good resistance to the various attacking factors to which hair may be subjected, such as light, bad weather, washing and perspiration.

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equiva lent to the expression "one or more".

Silicone resin

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicone resins. The term “resin” is intended to mean a compound of which the structure is three- dimensional. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsilox- ane is not a silicone resin.

The silicone resins according to the invention can have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of preferably between 300 and 100000 g/mol, better still between 400 and 50 000 g/mol, preferentially between 500 and 30 000 g/mol.

The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it com prises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula R1 R2R3SiOi_/2, the sili con atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit. The letter D means a difunctional unit R1 R2S1O2/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms. The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1 S1O3_/2. In these M, D and T units, the radicals R1 , R2 and R3 represent a hydro- carbon-based radical (notably alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl (C1-C10 alkyl) group or else a hydroxyl group. Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit S1O4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer. Various silicone resins with different properties may be obtained from these differ ent units, the properties of these polymers varying as a function notably of the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains. Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2676 182, US 3627851 , US 3772247, US 5248739 or else US 5082 706, US 5319040, US 5302685 and US 4935484. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sili cone resins comprising at least one trifunctional unit of formula RI S1O3/2, with R1, which may be identical or different, representing a hydrocarbon-based (notably al kyl) radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl (C1-C10 alkyl) group or else a hydroxyl group, on the condition that at least one of the R1 is a C1-C10 alkyl; all the R1 preferably being a C1-C10 alkyl.

Said silicone resins can therefore be of type T, MT, MTQ or MDTQ, preferably of type T.

When a silicone resin comprises predominantly trifunctional T units, it is generally called a silsesquioxane resin.

As an example of silicone resins (of type T) that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of the polysilsesquioxanes (or polyalkylsilsesqui- oxanes) of formula (RSi03_/2)_x wherein x is greater than or equal to 50, notably greater than or equal to 100, in particular between 50 and 500, and R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, it being possible for said polysilsesquioxanes to also comprise Si-OH end groups.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that may preferably be used are those wherein R represents a methyl group, for instance those sold: - by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CH3Si03_/2 repeating units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1 % by weight of (CH3)₂Si0_2/2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10000 g/mol,

- by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR 220L, which are composed of T units of formula CH₃Si0_3/2 and contain Si-OH (silanol) end groups, under the reference KR-242A, which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and contain Si-OH end groups, or else under the reference KR 251 , comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and contain Si-OH end groups,

- by the company Grant Industries under the name Granresin PMSQ ID containing 80% of polymethylsilsesquioxane in isododecane.

Use may also be made of polypropylsilsesquioxane resins wherein R represents a propyl group, for instance those sold: - by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 670 Fluid, and which comprises approximately 50% of polypropylsilsesquioxane and 50% of cyclopen- tasiloxane;

- by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 680 ID Fluid, which comprises approximately 72% of polypropylsilsesquioxane and 28% of isododec- ane;

Preferably, the polypropylsilsesquioxanes are homopolymers and copolymers which have a unit of formula R_nSiO(4-n)/2 with R, independently of one another, cho sen from hydrogen and a propyl group, wherein at least 80 mol% of the R are propyl groups, and n ranges from 1.0 to 1 .4; more particularly, at least 60 mol% of the polymer comprises RS1O3/2 units and has a hydroxyl or alkoxy content ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight.

In certain cases, the resin may be provided as a mixture with a cosmetically ac ceptable solvent, which may be a volatile solvent such as a C13-C14 isoparaffin, isododecane, isoeicosane or isohexadecane; preferably isododecane.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sili cone resins of type T, better still one or more silicone resins of polysilsesquioxane type of formula (RSi03_/2)x wherein x is greater than or equal to 50, in particular to 100, and the R group is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, no tably from 1 to 4 carbons; preferentially, one or more silicone resins of polypro pylsilsesquioxane type.

Preferably, the composition comprises the silicone resin(s) in a total content rang ing from 0.1% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferen tially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amino silicones with amino end groups

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amino sil icones comprising amine end groups; this means that the groups located at the chain end (the end groups in the alpha and omega positions) comprise an amino group.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amino silicones corresponding to formula (I)

wherein: - the radicals R, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a C-i- C4 alkyl group,

- the radicals R1 , R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hy drogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group,

- x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and

- n is such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200 000.

Preferably, the radicals R are identical and represent CH3 (methyl).

Preferably, R1 , R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydro gen atom, a C2-C4 alkyl group, which is preferably linear and saturated, in particular ethyl; or a C2-C4 aminoalkyl group, in particular of structure -(C_aH2a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2).

Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still x=3. Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still y=3. Preferably, x=y.

Preferably, n is such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is between 10 000 and 150000 g/mol, or even between 15 000 and 100 000 g/mol.

In one preferred embodiment, the amino silicone corresponds to formula (I) wherein R=methyl, x=y=3 and R1 =R2=R3=R4=H; it is then a Bis-aminopropyl Di- methicone (INCI name).

The composition comprises a total content of amino silicone(s) with amino end groups ranging preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition comprises a total content of amino silicone(s) of formula (I) rang ing preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio between the total amount of silicone resins and the total amount of amino silicones with amino end groups ranges preferably from 0.05 to 10, better still from 0.1 to 5 and even better still from 0.2 to 3.

In one particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the total content of hydrocarbon-based resin(s) and the total content of amino silicone(s) of formula (I) ranges preferably from 0.05 to 10, better still from 0.1 to 5 and even better still from 0.2 to 3.

Organic solvents

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents. It may particular comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from C1-C4 alco hols, such as ethanol or isopropanol, polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2- butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, aromatic alcohols or ethers, such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more hy drocarbon-based oils. This oil may be volatile (vapor pressure greater than or equal to 0.13 Pa measured at 25°C) or nonvolatile (vapor pressure less than 0.13 Pa measured at 25°C). Pref erably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is volatile.

The hydrocarbon-based oil is an oil (nonaqueous compound) that is liquid at am bient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm). The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The term "hydrocarbon" means a compound formed solely from carbon and hydro- gen atoms.

The composition preferably comprises one or more hydrocarbon-based oils or or ganic solvents, chosen, alone or as mixtures, from:

- branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentame- thylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane; for example, the oils sold under the Iso- par or Permethyl trade names,

- linear Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cu), for instance those sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof; undecane, tridecane and mix tures thereof such as mixtures of n-undecane (Cu) and of n-tridecane (C13) ob tained in examples 1 and 2 of application W02008/155059 from the company Cog- nis;

- short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as C1-C4 alkyl acetates, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl ac etate;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are notably heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or else caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated poly isobutene such as Parleam®, squalane and liquid paraffins, and mixtures thereof; - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 wherein Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 rep resents a, notably branched, hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 car bon atoms, on condition that Ri + R2 ³ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alcohol or polyalcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinole- ates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentae- rythritol esters;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or un saturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.

The composition preferably comprises one or more hydrocarbon-based oils con taining from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferentially from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; and even better still chosen from nonpolar oils (therefore formed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms), even better still chosen from hydrocarbons. Preferentially, the composition may comprise one or more linear or branched Cs to C16 and preferably C10 to C16 alkanes; better still one or more branched Cs to C16 and preferably C10 to C16 alkanes; even better still one or more alkanes chosen from isododecane, undecane and tridecane, and mixtures thereof. More preferen tially, the composition according to the invention comprises isododecane.

Preferably, when the composition comprises one or more hydrocarbon-based oils, these oils constitute the only nonsilicone oil(s) of the composition, or are present in a predominant content relative to the additional oils that may be present in the composition.

The composition may comprise the organic solvent(s) in a total content ranging preferably from 10% to 99% by weight, better still from 70% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compo sition.

Notably, the composition may comprise the hydrocarbon-based oil(s) in a total con tent ranging preferably from 10% to 99% by weight, better still from 70% to 98% by weight, preferentially from 80% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" is intended to mean to a composition/phase comprising a water content of less than or equal to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition/phase. Preferably, the water content of the anhydrous composition/phase is less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferentially less than or equal to 0.1% by weight; even better still, the anhydrous composition/phase according to the invention is totally free of water (0%).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous" is intended to mean to a composition/phase comprising water in a content greater than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition/phase. Preferably, the aqueous com position/phase comprises water in a content preferably ranging from 50% to 99% by weight, better still from 60% to 95% by weight and more preferentially from 65% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition/phase.

In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is anhydrous; in another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition accord ing to the invention is aqueous.

In one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two distinct phases, and may notably be in the form of a double phase, notably of a double phase comprising an aqueous phase and an anhydrous phase, the two distinct phases preferably being one on top of the other; in particular, the aqueous phase may be below the anhydrous phase.

Phenyl silicones

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more silicones comprising one or more optionally substituted phenyl groups in their structure, that is to say one or more phenyl silicones.

Said phenyl silicones are different than the silicones with amino end groups de scribed above: they do not comprise amino end groups, and preferably do not com prise amino groups. They are also different than the silicone resins.

Preferably, the phenyl silicone(s) are nonvolatile. They are preferentially chosen from silicones comprising two phenyl groups, silicones comprising three phenyl groups, silicones comprising four phenyl groups, silicones comprising five phenyl groups, silicones comprising six phenyl groups, and mixtures thereof. A silicone comprising one or more phenyl groups that is particularly preferred is pentaphenyl dimethicone, also known under the name trimethylpentaphenyl- trisiloxane, such as the product sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid®.

Other silicones comprising one or more phenyl groups that may be used are phenyl trimethicones and polyphenyl trimethicones preferably having molecular weights of at least 3000 Da and/or viscosities of at least 100 cSt, such as:

- the phenyl trimethicone sold in particular by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade names Abil AV 350 (300 ± 30 cSt) and Abil AV 1000 (925-1075 cSt) and also com mercially available from Dow Corning under the brand name Dow Corning DC1- 0648 (at least 5000 cSt),

- the trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone sold in particular by the company Wacker under the brand name Wacker-Belsil PDM 1000 (925-1075 cSt), and

- the diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone sold in particular by the company Facon- nier.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the phenyl silicone(s), when they are present, in a total content ranging preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Colorants

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more colorants, preferably chosen from pigments.

The term “pigment” is intended to mean a white or colored solid particle which is naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic liquid phases usually employed in cosmetics or which is rendered insoluble by formulation in the form of a lake, where appropriate. More particularly, the pigment has little or no solubility in aque ous-alcoholic media.

Pigments that may be mentioned include organic and mineral pigments such as those defined and described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry "Pigment organics", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002/14356007. a20 371 and ibid, "Pigments, Inorganic, 1. General” 2009 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Wein- heim10.1002/14356007.a20_243.pub3.

Mention may be made notably of azo pigments which contain one or more azo groups A-N=N-B with A representing an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl, B rep resenting optionally substituted (hetero)aryl or -CH[C(0)-R]-C(0)-Xi-A, A repre senting an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl and R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C₆)alkyl group, with the (hetero)aryl groups A, A and B not containing any solubilizing groups such as -SO3H or -COOH. They may in particular be monoazo pigments, including b-naphthols, mono- azopyrrolone pigments or benzimidazolone pigments; diazo pigments, such as di- azodiarylide pigments and bis(N-acetoacetarylide) pigments, or triazo or tetraazo pigments. Mention may also be made of azo metal complex pigments.

Other pigments are also advantageous, namely isoindolinone and isoindoline pig ments, phthalocyanine pigments; quinacridone pigments; perinone pigments; perylene pigments; anthraquinone pigments such as hydroxyanthraquinone pig ments; aminoanthraquinone pigments including acylaminoanthraquinones and azo anthraquinone pigments; heterocyclic anthraquinones; polycarbocyclic anthraqui none pigments, pyranthrone pigments; anthranthrone pigments; diketo- pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) pigments; thioindigo pigments; dioxazine pigments; triphenyl- methane pigments; quinophthalone pigments; and fluorescent pigments.

When the dyes comprise one or more solubilizing groups such as -SO3H or - COOH, these dyes are made insoluble and consequently pigments by formation of a lake, i.e. by salification (e.g. Na, Ca, St, Ba, etc.) and divided mainly into b-naph- thol and 2-hydroxy-3-naphthoic acid pigments "(BON) pigment lakes".

In the context of the present invention, the pigment may be at least partly organic. According to one embodiment of the invention, the pigment is an organic pigment. According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment is a mineral pig ment.

The microcapsules according to the invention comprise not more than 80% by weight of pigment relative to the weight of the polymer matrix. In particular, they may comprise from 0.5% to 75% by weight, for example from 1 % to 70% by weight, notably from 20% to 65% by weight or even from 30% to 60% by weight of pigment relative to the weight of the polymer matrix.

Needless to say, the degree of encapsulation depends on the desired modification of the shade and may thus vary significantly according to the effect that it is desired to obtain.

As illustrations of pigments that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of carbon black, titanium oxide, chromium oxide, pigments of D&C or FD&C type and lakes thereof, and notably those known under the names D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, FD&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, FD&C Red No. 4, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7 (Cl 15850), D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31 , D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Red 40 lake, D&C Violet No. 2, Ext. D&C Violet No. 2, FD & C Blue No. 1 , D&C Yellow No. 6, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 7, 25 Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10 or D&C Yellow No. 11 , it being understood that when said pigment is not naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic phases usually used in cosmet ics, it is used in the form of a corresponding lake, as explained previously. Examples of lakes that may notably be mentioned include lakes based on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or alternatively diketopyrrolopyrroles.

As further examples of pigments that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made notably of mineral pigments, optionally surface-treated and/or coated, and notably titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, or alternatively metal powders, for instance aluminum powder, copper powder, gold powder and silver powder. Mention may also be made of pigments with an optical effect such as particles comprising a natural or synthetic organic or mineral substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics oralu- minas, said substrate being optionally covered with metal substances, for instance aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper or bronze, or with metal oxides, for in stance titanium dioxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide.

They may also be nacres. The term “nacres” means iridescent pigments, which are notably produced by cer tain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively which are synthesized.

The nacreous pigments may be chosen from mica coated with titanium or with bis muth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated no tably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bis muth oxychloride. Use may also be made of interference pigments, notably liquid- crystal or multilayer pigments.

They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of seric- ite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.

As examples of pigments that are most particularly suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made notably of D&C Red No. 7, titanium oxide, chro mium oxide, lakes of the pigments of D&C and FD&C type mentioned above, and notably D&C Red No. 22 lake, Yellow No. 6 lake and FD&C Blue No. 1 lake.

The pigments in accordance with the invention may be in the form of pigment pow der or paste. They may be coated or uncoated.

The pigments in accordance with the invention may be chosen, for example, from white or colored pigments, lakes, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of white or colored mineral pigments that may be mentioned include zir conium oxide or cerium oxide, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue.

Examples of white or colored organic pigments that may be mentioned include ni- troso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone and phthalocyanine com pounds, compounds of metallic complex type, and isoindolinone, isoindoline, quin- acridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenyl- methane and quinophthalone compounds.

In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon blacks such as Black 2, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocy anine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color In dex under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370,

12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2679771. Preferably, carbon blacks such as Black 2 or lakes such as D&C Red 7.

Use may be made of pigment pastes of organic pigments, such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:

- Cosmenyl Yellow IOG: Yellow 3 pigment (Cl 11710);

- Cosmenyl Yellow G: Yellow 1 pigment (Cl 11680); - Cosmenyl Orange GR: Orange 43 pigment (Cl 71105);

- Cosmenyl Red R: Red 4 pigment (Cl 12085);

- Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Red 5 pigment (Cl 12490);

- Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet 23 pigment (Cl 51319);

- Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue 15.1 pigment (Cl 74160); - Cosmenyl Green GG: Green 7 pigment (Cl 74260);

- Cosmenyl Black R: Black 7 pigment (Cl 77266).

The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of compo site pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed notably of particles comprising: - a mineral core,

- at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core, and

- at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

The term "lake" refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine.

Examples of lakes that may be mentioned include the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45430), D&C Red 7 (Cl 15850:1), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (Cl 77002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42090).

The term “pigments with special effects” refers to pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a cer tain level of luminance) that is non-uniform and that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, angles of observation, etc.). They thereby differ from white or colored pigments that afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.

Examples of pigments with special effects that may be mentioned include white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and notably with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined previously, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect which are not attached to a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) or interference holographic glitter flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, ther- mochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quan- turn Dots Corporation.

Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductor nanoparticles that are capable of emitting, under light excitation, radiation with a wavelength of between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known from the literature. In particular, they may be manufactured according to the processes described, for example, in US 6225 198 or US 5 990 479, in the publications cited therein and also in the following publications: Dabboussi B.O. et al. , “(CdSe)ZnS core-shell quantum dots: synthe sis and characterisation of a size series of highly luminescent nanocrystallites”, Journal of Physical Chemistry B, vol. 101, 1997, pages 9463-9475, and Peng, Xiaogang et al., “Epitaxial growth of highly luminescent CdSe/CdS core/shell nano- crystals with photostability and electronic accessibility”, Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 119, No. 30, pages 7019-7029.

The pigments in accordance with the invention are preferably colored pigments. The variety of pigments used makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors, and also particular optical effects such as metallic or interference effects. The size of a pigment other than the nacres in solution is generally between 10 nm and 10 pm, preferably between 50 nm and 5 pm and even more preferentially be tween 100 nm and 3 pm. The size of a nacre in solution is generally between 1 and 200 pm, preferably between 1 and 80 pm and even more preferentially between 1 and 50 pm.

Among the mineral pigments, examples that may be mentioned include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase) optionally surface-treated and codified in the Color Index under the reference Cl 77891 ; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, codified under the references Cl 77499, 77492 and 77491 ; manganese violet (Cl 77742); ultramarine blue (Cl 77007); hydrated chromium oxide (Cl 77289); ferric blue (CI77510).

Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned, for example, are the pigment Yellow 3 sold notably under the trade name Jaune Covanor W 1603 by the com pany Wackherr (Cl 17710), D&C Red No. 19 (Cl 45170), D&C Red No. 9 (Cl 15585), D&C Red No. 21 (Cl 45380), D&C Orange No. 4 (Cl 15510), D&C Orange No. 5 (Cl 45370), D&C Red No. 27 (Cl 45410), D&C Red No. 13 (Cl 15630), D&C Red No. 7 (Cl 15850-1 ), D&C Red No. 6 (Cl 15850-2), D&C Yellow No. 5 (Cl 19140), D&C Red No. 36 (Cl 12085), D&C Orange No. 10 (Cl 45425), D&C Yellow

No. 6 (Cl 15985), D&C Red No. 30 (Cl 73360), D&C Red No. 3 (Cl 45430), carbon black (Cl 77266) and lakes based on cochineal carmine (Cl 75470).

It is also possible to use nacreous pigments, which may be chosen notably from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide or bismuth oxide; colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also those based on bismuth oxychloride.

Pigment pastes of organic pigment are used more particularly, such as the prod ucts sold by the company Hoechst under the names: - Cosmenyl Yellow 10G: Yellow 3 pigment (Cl 11710),

- Cosmenyl Yellow G: Yellow 1 pigment (Cl 11680),

- Cosmenyl Orange GR: Orange 43 pigment (Cl 71105),

- Cosmenyl Red R: Red 4 pigment (Cl 12085),

- Cosmenyl Carmine FB: Red 5 pigment (Cl 12490), - Cosmenyl Violet RL: Violet 23 pigment (Cl 51319),

- Cosmenyl Blue A2R: Blue 15.1 pigment (Cl 74260),

- Cosmenyl Green GG: Green 7 pigment (Cl 74260),

- Cosmenyl Black R: Black 7 pigment (Cl 77266). The colorant(s) are advantageously chosen from pigments and mixtures thereof, and preferably from nacres and mixtures thereof.

The total content of colorant(s), if present in the composition according to the pre sent invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polymer particles The composition according to the present invention may also optionally comprise particles, which are preferably spherical, of at least one surface-stabilized polymer. Preferably, the particles are introduced into the composition in the form of a dis persion of particles, which are generally spherical, of at least one surface-stabilized polymer, in an oily medium, advantageously containing at least one hydrocarbon- based oil, as defined previously.

The polymer of the particles is preferably a polymer obtained from monomers cho sen from C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates. It may be a homopolymer or a copolymer obtained by polymerization of only one or of several different monomers.

The C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers may be chosen from methyl (methacry late, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate and tert-butyl (meth)acrylate.

A C1-C4 alkyl acrylate monomer is advantageously used. Preferentially, the poly mer of the particles is obtained from methyl acrylate and/or ethyl acrylate.

The polymer of the particles may also comprise an ethylenically unsaturated acid monomer or an anhydride thereof, chosen notably from ethylenically unsaturated acid monomers comprising at least one carboxylic, phosphoric or sulfonic acid function, such as crotonic acid, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, maleic an hydride, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid or acrylamidoglycolic acid, and salts thereof.

The ethylenically unsaturated acid monomer is preferably chosen from (meth)acrylic acid, maleic acid and maleic anhydride.

The salts may be chosen from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potas sium; salts of alkaline-earth metals, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese or copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4⁺; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2- hydroxyethylamine, bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts.

The polymer of the particles may thus comprise or is constituted essentially of from 80% to 100% by weight of Ci to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate and from 0 to 20% by weight of ethylenically unsaturated acid monomer, relative to the total weight of the polymer.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polymer is constituted essen tially of a polymer obtained from one or more monomers chosen from Ci to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate(s).

According to a second embodiment of the invention, the polymer is constituted es sentially of a copolymer of Ci to C4 (meth)acrylate(s) and of (meth)acrylic acid or maleic anhydride.

The polymer of the particles may be chosen from:

- methyl acrylate homopolymers, - ethyl acrylate homopolymers,

- methyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate copolymers,

- methyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymers,

- methyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate/maleic anhydride copolymers,

- methyl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymers, - ethyl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymers,

- methyl acrylate/maleic anhydride copolymers, and

- ethyl acrylate/maleic anhydride copolymers.

The polymer of the particles may also be a polymer obtained from monomers cho- sen from aryl (meth)acrylates, and more particularly benzyl acrylate.

Advantageously, the polymer of the particles is a non-crosslinked polymer.

The polymer of the particles preferably has a number-average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 2000 to 10 000 000 and preferably ranging from 150 000 to 500 000.

In the case of a particle dispersion, the polymer(s) of the particles may preferably be present in the dispersion in a content ranging from 20% to 60% by weight, more preferentially from 21 % to 58.5% by weight, better still from 30% to 50% by weight and even better still from 36% to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

The polymer is surface-stabilized, for example using a stabilizer which is preferably a homopolymer or a copolymer obtained notably from isobornyl (meth)acrylates, and better still chosen from isobornyl (meth)acrylate homopolymer and statistical copolymers of isobornyl (meth)acrylate and of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate present in an isobornyl (meth)acrylate/Ci-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate weight ratio of greater than or equal to 4, preferably greater than 4.5 and even more advantageously greater than or equal to 5. Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 4.5 to 19, preferably from 5 to 19 and more particularly from 5 to 12. According to a particular embodiment, the stabilizer is a statistical copolymer of isobornyl (meth)acrylate and of Ci to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate present in an isobornyl (meth)acrylate/Ci to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate weight ratio of greater than or equal to 5.

Advantageously, the stabilizer is chosen from: - isobornyl acrylate homopolymers,

- statistical copolymers of isobornyl acrylate/methyl acrylate,

- statistical copolymers of isobornyl acrylate/methyl acrylate/ethyl acrylate, and

- statistical copolymers of isobornyl methacrylate/methyl acrylate, in the weight ratio described previously.

The stabilizer preferably has a number-average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 10 000 to 400 000 and preferably ranging from 20 000 to 200 000.

The stabilizer is in contact with the surface of the polymer particles and thus makes it possible to stabilize these particles at the surface, in particular in order to keep these particles in dispersion in the nonaqueous medium of the dispersion.

Advantageously, the combination of the stabilizer(s) + polymer(s) of the particles present in particular in the dispersion comprises in total from 10% to 50% by weight of polymerized isobornyl (meth)acrylate and from 50% to 90% by weight of pol ymerized Ci to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, relative to the total weight of the combina tion of the stabilizer(s) + polymer(s) of the particles.

Preferentially, the combination of the stabilizer(s) + polymer(s) of the particles pre sent in particular in the dispersion comprises in total from 15% to 30% by weight of polymerized isobornyl (meth)acrylate and from 70% to 85% by weight of polymer ized Ci to C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, relative to the total weight of the combination of the stabilizer(s) + polymer(s) of the particles.

Preferably, the stabilizer(s) are soluble in the hydrocarbon-based oils as defined previously, and in particular soluble in isododecane. When the polymer particles are provided in the composition in the form of a disper sion prepared beforehand, the oily medium of this polymer dispersion comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil as defined previously.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based oil is nonpolar and preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular the nonpolar oils described previously.

Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based oil is isododecane.

The polymer particles, in particular in the dispersion, preferably have a mean size, notably a number-mean size, ranging from 50 to 500 nm, notably ranging from 75 to 400 nm and better still ranging from 100 to 250 nm. In general, a dispersion of polymer particles that is suitable for use in the invention may be prepared in the following manner, which is given as an example.

The polymerization may be performed in dispersion, i.e. by precipitation of the pol ymer during formation, with protection of the formed particles with a stabilizer.

In a first step, the stabilizing polymer is prepared by mixing the constituent mono- mer(s) of the stabilizing polymer with a free-radical initiator, in a solvent known as the synthesis solvent, and by polymerizing these monomers. In a second step, the constituent monomer(s) of the polymer of the particles are added to the stabilizing polymer formed and polymerization of these added monomers is performed in the presence of the free-radical initiator. When the nonaqueous medium is a nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the polymerization may be performed in a nonpolar organic solvent (synthesis solvent), followed by adding the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil (which should be misci ble with said synthesis solvent) and selectively distilling off the synthesis solvent. A synthesis solvent which is such that the monomers of the stabilizing polymer and the free-radical initiator are soluble therein, and the polymer particles obtained are insoluble therein, so that they precipitate therein during their formation, is thus cho sen.

In particular, the synthesis solvent may be chosen from alkanes such as heptane or cyclohexane.

When the nonaqueous medium is a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the polymeri zation may be performed directly in said oil, which thus also acts as synthesis sol vent. The monomers should also be soluble therein, as should the free-radical ini tiator, and the polymer of the particles which is obtained should be insoluble therein.

The monomers are preferably present in the synthesis solvent, before polymeriza tion, in a proportion of 5% to 20% by weight. The total amount of the monomers may be present in the solvent before the start of the reaction, or part of the mono mers may be added gradually as the polymerization reaction proceeds.

The free-radical initiator may notably be azobisisobutyronitrile or tert-butyl peroxy- 2-ethylhexanoate.

The polymerization may be performed at a temperature ranging from 70 to 110°C. The polymer particles are surface-stabilized, when they are formed during the polymerization, by means of the stabilizer.

The stabilization may be performed by any known means, and in particular by direct addition of the stabilizer, during the polymerization.

The stabilizer is preferably also present in the mixture before polymerization of the monomers of the polymer of the particles. However, it is also possible to add it continuously, notably when the monomers of the polymer of the particles are also added continuously.

From 10% to 30% by weight of stabilizer may be used relative to the total weight of monomers used.

Additional silicones

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additional silicones, different than the silicones with amino end groups, than the silicone resins and than the phenyl silicones.

Said additional silicones that can be used in the composition according to the in vention may be in particular polyorganosiloxanes, which may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i.e. dissolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or micro dispersions, or of aqueous emulsions. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes or gums. Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.

The additional silicones may be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the additional silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point between of 60°C and 260°C, notably from:

(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane as sold notably under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by the company Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by the company Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane as sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by the company Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by the com pany Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methyl- alkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure: " ' " '

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon com pounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsi- lylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1 '-bis[2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexa(trimethylsilyloxy)neopentane];

(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x1 O⁶ m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane as sold notably under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones falling within this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, pages 27-32 - Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.

When the additional silicones are nonvolatile, use is preferably made of poly- alkylsiloxanes, silicone gums, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunc- tional groups, and mixtures thereof.

They are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having notably a viscosity of from 5x10⁶ to 2.5 m²/s at 25°C and preferably 1 x10⁵ to 1 m²/s. The viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Ap pendix C.

Mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial prod ucts: - the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by the company

Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000,

- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia, - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as, more particu larly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt,

- the Viscasil oils from the company General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing a,w-silanol groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

In this category of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.

The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the inven tion are notably polydiorganosiloxanes with high number-average molecular weights of between 200000 and 1 000000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, meth ylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following products:

- polydimethylsiloxane gums, - polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane/phenylmethylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane gums.

Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain

(dimethiconol according to the CTFA nomenclature) and from a cyclic polydime thylsiloxane (cyclomethicone according to the CTFA nomenclature), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning,

- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corre sponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,

- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General

Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, with a viscosity of 20 m²/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x1 O⁶ m²/s. This product preferably includes 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96. The additional organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are, notably, silicones as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon- based group. Mention may notably be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising Ce to C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the com pany Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide, and the (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200,

- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from the company Genesee,

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Gold schmidt,

- hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR 2 589 476,

- acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732,

- anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for instance in the products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso Corporation, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E from the company Shin- Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil S201 and Abil S255.

Preferably, the additional silicones are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone), in particular bearing a trimethyloxy end group.

When the additional silicones are nonvolatile, they may also be chosen from sili cone resins.

By way of example, mention may be made of siloxysilicates, which may be trimethyl siloxysilicates of formula [(CH3)3XSiX0]xX(Si0_4/2)_y (MQ units) wherein x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80.

The total content of additional silicone(s), if present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and better still from 1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more addi tional compounds, which are notably usually employed in the cosmetics field, and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers and mixtures thereof, cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and/or zwit- terionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, antioxidants, oxy acids, fragrances, preserving agents and ceram ides. Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associ ated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substan tially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the appli cation to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined previously. The composition may be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers that have optionally been washed with a shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the inven tion is applied to wet keratin fibers.

The composition according to the present invention is applied with a leave-on time that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

When the composition is in the form of a double phase (i.e. it contains two phases that are distinct from one another), it is stirred mechanically so as to perform ex temporaneous mixing of the two phases immediately before application.

After the step of cosmetic treatment with decomposition according to the invention, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a sham poo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry. Preferably, the application of the composition according to the invention is not followed by rinsing, but may be followed by drying the hair.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts are indicated therein, unless otherwise indicated, as weight percent ages of active material (% AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

The following compositions according to the invention are prepared (% by weight AM):

[Table 1]

⁽¹⁾ DC 680 ID Fluid - Dow Corning These compositions can be used as leave-on hair compositions; they give the hair sheen properties, softness and smoothness (soft feel). Example 2

The composition according to the invention (A1 ) and the comparative compositions (B1 ), (B2) and (B3) were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below (% AM).

[Table 2]

⁽¹⁾ DC 680 ID Fluid - Dow Corning

⁽²⁾ KF8020 - Shin Etsu (80/20 dimethicone/amodimethicone mixture)

Locks of natural chestnut-brown hair (toner depth 4) underwent a preliminary re laxing treatment, to simulate degradation of the hair without changing the color, before being washed with shampoo and then rinsed.

After the rinsing step, the above compositions to be tested were applied to the locks of wet hair in a proportion of 0.15 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks thus treated were directly dried with a hairdryer without intermediate rinsing.

The sheen of each of the “treated” locks, and also that of locks that are degraded (i.e. locks which have undergone a relaxing treatment) but not treated according to the invention were measured using Samba equipment (Bossa Nova Technologies) composed of a polarized light source, a polarized camera and a cylindrical lock holder. Software translates the parameters measured by the system into arbitrary gloss units (BNT).

The results of the sheen measurements below were obtained (average over 4 locks).

[Table 3]

It is noted that the composition according to the present invention (A1) gives the hair more sheen than the comparative compositions. In particular, it is noted that:

- the bis-aminopropyl dimethicone silicone alone has no influence on the sheen,

- the silicone resin alone has a medium influence on the sheen, and

- when the combination according to the invention is used, the sheen of the hair is clearly improved.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: - one or more silicone resins, in a total content ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

- one or more amino silicones comprising amino end groups, preferably one or more amino silicones of formula (I):

wherein:

- the radicals R, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci- C4 alkyl group,

- the radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hy drogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C1-C6 aminoalkyl group, - x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and

- n is such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200000 g/mol.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1 , comprising the silicone resin(s) in a total content ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better still from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition as claimed in either of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicone resins comprising at least one trifunctional unit of formula R1 S1O3/2, with R1 , which may be identical or different, representing a hydrocarbon-based (notably alkyl) radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl (C1-C10 alkyl) group or else a hydroxyl group, on the condition that at least one of the R1 is a C1-C10 alkyl; all the R1 preferably being a C1-C10 alkyl.

4. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicone resins chosen from polysilsesquioxanes (or polyalkylsilsesquiox- anes) of formula (RSi03_/2)_x wherein x is greater than or equal to 50, notably greater than or equal to 100, in particular between 50 and 500, and R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, it being possible for said polysilsesquioxanes to also comprise Si-OH end groups; prefer entially one or more silicone resins of polypropylsilsesquioxane type.

5. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino silicone of formula (I) is such that:

- the radicals R are identical and represent Ch (methyl); and/or

- the radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hy drogen atom, a C2-C4 alkyl group, which is preferably linear and saturated, in par- ticular ethyl; or a C2-C4 aminoalkyl group, in particular of structure -(C_aH2_a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2); and/or

- x is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still x=3; and/or

- y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still y=3; and/or

- n is such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is between 10000 and 150000 g/mol, or even between 15000 and 100000 g/mol.

6. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino silicone of formula (I) is such that R=methyl, x=y=3 and R1=R2=R3=R4=H.

7. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of amino silicone(s) with amino end groups ranging preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more organic solvents notably chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol or iso propanol, polyols and polyol ethers such as glycerol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, aromatic alcohols or ethers, such as benzyl al- cohol and phenoxyethanol, hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof; preferably one or more hydrocarbon-based oils or organic solvents, chosen, alone or as mixtures, from:

- branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentame- thylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane;

- linear Cs-Ci6 alkanes, such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cu), un decane, tridecane and mixtures thereof, such as mixtures of n-undecane (Cu) and of n-tridecane (C13);

- short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as C1-C4 alkyl acetates, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl ac etate; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as triglycerides constituted by fatty acid esters and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and satu- rated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic acid triglyc erides, or alternatively wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, haznut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil and musk rose oil; shea butter; or else caprylic/capric acid triglycerides;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, of min eral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated poly isobutene, squalane and liquid paraffins, and mixtures thereof;

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 wherein Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 rep- resents a, notably branched, hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 car bon atoms, on condition that Ri + R2 ³ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alcohol or polyalcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinole- ates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentae- rythritol esters;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or un- saturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol.

9. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more optionally substituted phenyl groups in their structure; preferably chosen from pentaphenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicones and polyphenyltrimethicones.

10. The composition as claimed in one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more colorants, preferably chosen from organic or mineral pigments, in particular lakes and nacres.

11. A cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 10.