WO2023112833A1 - Produit cosmétique eau-dans-huile - Google Patents

Produit cosmétique eau-dans-huile Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023112833A1
WO2023112833A1 PCT/JP2022/045339 JP2022045339W WO2023112833A1 WO 2023112833 A1 WO2023112833 A1 WO 2023112833A1 JP 2022045339 W JP2022045339 W JP 2022045339W WO 2023112833 A1 WO2023112833 A1 WO 2023112833A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
component
cosmetic
water
oil
content
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Application number
PCT/JP2022/045339
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
哲男 海老原
光希 中村
耕太郎 ▲高▼田
元春 木村
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株式会社 資生堂
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Publication of WO2023112833A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023112833A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to water-in-oil cosmetics. More specifically, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil type cosmetic that achieves excellent covering power, a fresh feel during use, and ease of spreading during application.
  • oil-based cosmetics In cosmetics such as foundation, it is preferable to use oil-based cosmetics when the coverage is emphasized, but they often give an oily and sticky feeling. Powder-containing oil-in-water cosmetics containing powder have been investigated in order to improve the feeling of use, but there is still room for improvement from the viewpoint of covering power. On the other hand, water-in-oil type cosmetics with high covering power are also being studied, but there is still room for improvement in terms of freshness and moist feeling during use, and ease of spreadability during use.
  • the emulsified state may change due to vibration during transportation, etc., but there is a demand for highly stable cosmetics with less such changes.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil type cosmetic that is excellent in spreadability, less powdery when used, and has high covering power.
  • the following inventions are provided.
  • component (A) is selected from the group consisting of agar, carrageenan, and gellan gum.
  • component (B) is tamarind gum.
  • the content of component (A) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic [1] The cosmetic according to any one of -[3].
  • the content of component (F) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic [11] Or the cosmetic according to [12].
  • a cosmetic that is excellent in freshness when used, is less powdery, and is suitable for liquid foundation.
  • This cosmetic material can realize high covering power, and furthermore, the cosmetic material has high stability, and the emulsified state does not easily change even when vibration is applied.
  • the first water-in-oil type cosmetic according to the present invention (hereinafter sometimes referred to simply as the first cosmetic) comprises (A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel transition ability, (B) xyloglucan, ( C) water, and (D) oil. Each component contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention is described below.
  • a first cosmetic according to the present invention contains a combination of specific hydrophilic polymer compounds.
  • One of them is a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel transition ability (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A)).
  • a hydrophilic polymer compound with sol-gel transition ability is one that reversibly forms a hydrophilic gel when a stimulus such as a temperature change is applied to its aqueous solution (sol).
  • aqueous solution such compounds are widely used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc., and various types are known.
  • agar, carrageenan, gellan gum, and the like are known as hydrophilic polymers having sol-gel transition ability.
  • Agar, carrageenan, and gellan gum form a gel by heating and dissolving and then solidifying upon cooling. It is preferable to use Furthermore, it can be preferably applied to the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in terms of gel properties, stability, feeling of use, and the like.
  • Component (A) is solidified by cooling, and the gel point (freezing point) of its aqueous solution is preferably 30°C or higher from the viewpoint of solidification at room temperature, and from the viewpoint of solubility during production, preferably 50°C or less, preferably 45°C or less.
  • the gelation point of the aqueous solution of component (A) is preferably 30 to 50°C, more preferably 30 to 45°C, taking these viewpoints together.
  • Agar has a basic structure that contains a large amount of galactose as a monosaccharide unit. It contains neutral agarose and agaropectin having an ionic group, and part of the agaropectin contains a sulfate group.
  • Carrageenan also has a basic structure containing a large amount of galactose as a monosaccharide unit.
  • Carrageenan is classified into three classes, kappa-carrageenan, lambda-carrageenan, and iota-carrageenan, any of which can be used.
  • Gellan gum is a linear heteropolysaccharide whose main chain contains a repeating unit in which 2 glucose, 1 glucuronic acid, and 1 rhamnose tetrasaccharides are linked. Moreover, the hydroxyl group of glucose contained in the repeating unit may be substituted with an acetyl group.
  • agar for example, Ina agar PS-84, Z-10, AX-30, AX-100, AX-200, T-1, S-5, M-7, CS-110 (manufactured by Ina Food Industry Co., Ltd.) etc. can be used.
  • the content of component (A) is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. is more preferable.
  • the first cosmetic according to the present invention contains xyloglucan (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (B)) as a hydrophilic polymer compound to be combined with component (A).
  • component (B) xyloglucan
  • the basic structure of xyloglucan is a structure in which ⁇ -1,4-glucan is the main chain and xylose side chains are ⁇ -1,6-bonded to the main chain. As a side chain, galactose or fucose may be bound.
  • xyloglucan is tamarind gum derived from tamarind seeds.
  • this tamarind gum it is preferable to use this tamarind gum.
  • Tamarind gum is xyloglucan derived from a natural product, but it contains few impurities, and a stable product can be obtained when it is used. Tamarind gum is produced by crushing, separating and refining tamarind seeds.
  • the content of component (B) is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. is more preferable.
  • the effect expressed changes depending on the blending ratio of the (A) component and the (B) component.
  • the ratio of the content of component (A) to the content of component (B) is preferably 50:1 to 1:50, more preferably 20:1 to 1:20. is more preferable.
  • the first water-in-oil type cosmetic according to the present invention contains an aqueous phase and an oil phase. Then, water (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (C)) is included as a component of the aqueous phase.
  • component (C) water
  • water generally used in cosmetics can be used, for example, purified water, ion-exchanged water, tap water, and the like can be used.
  • water forms an aqueous phase
  • the above-described components (A) and (B) are highly water-soluble, they are generally dissolved in the aqueous phase before being added to the cosmetic composition. preferably present in
  • oil component (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (D) component) of the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention either a polar oil or a non-polar oil is used as long as it is not mixed with the water phase and is liquid as a whole at the time of production. May be normal.
  • oils that can be used in cosmetics.
  • liquid oils, solid oils, waxes, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, silicone oils and the like can be used arbitrarily.
  • Liquid fats and oils include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, sasanqua oil.
  • Flower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, sinagiri oil, Japanese paulownia oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, etc. are exemplified.
  • Solid fats and oils include cacao butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, hydrogenated beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japanese wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, beef leg fat. , Japanese wax, hydrogenated castor oil and the like.
  • Waxes include beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, wart wax, whale wax, montan wax, bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojo Barlow, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether and the like are exemplified.
  • hydrocarbon oils examples include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalene, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, vaseline, and microcrystalline wax.
  • higher fatty acids examples include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, undecylenic acid, and thoric acid.
  • higher alcohols examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol.
  • Synthetic ester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, and myristyl lactate.
  • lanolin acetate isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexylate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, etc. be done.
  • silicone oils examples include linear silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; Cyclic silicone oils such as siloxane are exemplified.
  • the content of component (D) is preferably 10 to 70% by mass, more preferably 20 to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .
  • the first cosmetic according to the present invention may contain optional ingredients other than the above ingredients.
  • One of such components is a powder (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (E) component).
  • the powder can be arbitrarily selected from those commonly used in cosmetics, but since the cosmetic according to the present invention contains a relatively large amount of oil, it preferably contains hydrophobic powder. By including hydrophobic powder, the effect of improving water resistance can also be obtained.
  • Hydrophobic powders include not only powders that are themselves hydrophobic, but also hydrophobized powders obtained by hydrophobizing powder surfaces, even though they are hydrophilic powders.
  • hydrophobic powder examples include polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer resin powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoride powder.
  • examples include organic powders such as ethylene chloride powder and cellulose powder, and silicone powders such as trimethylsilsesquioxane powder.
  • Powder components of the hydrophobized powder include, for example, talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, red mica, biotite, lithiamite, permiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, Aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, Ceramic powder, metal soap (zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), inorganic powder such as boron nitride; inorganic white pigment such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide; inorganic such as iron oxide (red iron oxide) and iron titanate Red pigment; Inorganic brown pigment such as ⁇ -iron oxide; Inorganic yellow pigment such as yellow iron
  • the content of component (E) when blended is preferably 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. is more preferable.
  • the first cosmetic according to the present invention further contain xanthan gum.
  • Xanthan gum is a water-soluble polymer compound, and its repeating unit is composed of two glucose main chains and two mannose and one glucuronic acid side chains.
  • component (F) water-soluble polymer compounds
  • the combination of the (B) component and the (F) component tends to improve the stability of the cosmetic. This tendency is observed even when the component (A) is not present. In addition, there is a tendency to obtain effects of improving usability such as light spreadability and moisturizing feeling (moist feeling).
  • the content is preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, preferably 0.02 to 0%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .1 mass % is more preferred.
  • the first cosmetic according to the present invention preferably further contains an organically modified clay mineral (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (G) component).
  • an organically modified clay mineral for example, a clay mineral represented by the following general formula (1), which is a type of colloidal hydrous aluminum silicate having a three-layer structure, is modified with a quaternary ammonium salt-type cationic surfactant. things are mentioned.
  • natural or synthetic montmorillonite groups such as montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite (in this case, the (OH) group in the formula is substituted with fluorine)
  • Beegum trade name, manufactured by Vanderbilt Co.
  • Kunipia trade name, manufactured by Kunimine Industry Co., Ltd.
  • Laponite trade name, manufactured by BYK-Chemie Japan Co., Ltd.
  • synthetic mica known as sodium silicic mica or sodium or lithium teniolite for example, Daimonite (trade name, (manufactured by Topy Industries, Ltd.), etc., treated with a quaternary ammonium salt-type cationic surfactant.
  • the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain other ingredients than those mentioned above.
  • perfumes water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, moisturizers, lipophilic thickeners, lower alcohols (less than 6 carbon atoms), antioxidants, antiphlogistic agents, whitening agents, various extracts, activators, blood circulation promoters, anti- Seborrhoeic agents, anti-inflammatory agents, oil-soluble film-forming agents, water-soluble film-forming agents, amino acids or peptides, and the like may also be included.
  • the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention can take various formulation forms, but is preferably used as a liquid foundation or the like. It is preferably 2,500 to 20,000 mPa ⁇ s, more preferably 2,800 to 10,000 mPa ⁇ s. When the viscosity is within such a range, it is easy to spread when applied, and an excellent feeling of use can be obtained.
  • the first cosmetic according to the present invention can be produced by any method. Various methods can be adopted, such as a method of blending each component and stirring and mixing, a method of mixing a water-soluble component to form an aqueous phase component, and a method of blending it with an oil phase component and then dispersing it. .
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention contains the component (A) having sol-gel transition ability, the gel containing the component (A) can be pulverized and blended.
  • the form of the first cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be, for example, makeup base, foundation, white powder, blusher, lipstick, mascara, eyeshadow, eyeliner, and the like.
  • a liquid cosmetic it is preferably in a form that can be directly applied to the skin.
  • the second cosmetic in which the component (A) is replaced with the component (F) is superior in stability and usability compared to the first cosmetic according to the present invention.
  • this cosmetic comprises (F) a water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin alginic acid, and succinoglycan, (B) xyloglucan, It comprises (C) water and (D) oil.
  • the second cosmetic does not need to contain the component (A).
  • the content of component (F) when blended is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, preferably 0.03 to 5%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. % by mass is more preferred.
  • components (B) to (E) and (G) and other components can contain the same materials as the first cosmetic in the same content. Furthermore, the formulation form and manufacturing method of the second cosmetic can also be selected from those similar to those of the first cosmetic.
  • Viscosity A sample of cosmetics having a viscosity of 30°C was measured with a BL viscometer, No. 3 at a rotational speed of 12 rpm.
  • Emulsion Stability Cosmetics were sealed in a container with a lid, and the state of the cosmetic was observed when it was subjected to constant vertical vibration and impact.
  • D Coalescence of emulsified particles was observed when impact was applied, and the frequency of enlarged emulsified particles was high.
  • the cosmetic of Example 1 is superior in all aspects of usability and emulsion stability.
  • the effect of the present invention cannot be obtained if either component (A) or component (B) is lacking, and the effect of the present invention can be obtained even if component (B) is changed to another water-soluble polymer compound.
  • Comparative Examples 2 to 4 Further, when the powder component is increased, usability tends to deteriorate (Comparative Example 7), but the usability of the cosmetic according to the present invention (Example 7) is remarkably improved.
  • the inclusion of the (F) component improves the high-temperature stability even when the (A) component is not included.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un produit cosmétique eau-dans-huile présentant une excellente utilisabilité et une excellente stabilité. Un premier produit cosmétique eau-dans-huile selon la présente invention comprend (A) un composé polymère hydrophile ayant une capacité de transition sol-gel tel que l'agar, (B) un xyloglucane tel que la gomme de tamarin, (C) de l'eau et (D) un composant huileux. En outre, un second produit cosmétique eau-dans-huile selon la présente invention comprend (F) un composé polymère hydrosoluble choisi dans le groupe constitué par la gomme xanthane, la gomme de caroube, la dextrine, l'acide alginique et le succinoglycane, (B) un xyloglucane, (C) de l'eau et (D) un composant huileux.
PCT/JP2022/045339 2021-12-17 2022-12-08 Produit cosmétique eau-dans-huile WO2023112833A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2021205225 2021-12-17
JP2021-205225 2021-12-17

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Publication Number Publication Date
WO2023112833A1 true WO2023112833A1 (fr) 2023-06-22

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP7442222B1 (ja) 2022-09-28 2024-03-04 株式会社東洋新薬 皮膚外用剤

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002212028A (ja) * 2001-01-12 2002-07-31 Shiseido Co Ltd 油中水型乳化組成物およびこれを用いた乳化化粧料
JP2016204311A (ja) * 2015-04-23 2016-12-08 伊那食品工業株式会社 乳化組成物
WO2020067420A1 (fr) * 2018-09-28 2020-04-02 株式会社 資生堂 Produit cosmétique solide sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile
KR20210041232A (ko) * 2019-10-07 2021-04-15 (주)아모레퍼시픽 타마린드 검을 포함하는 유중수(w/o) 제형의 화장료 조성물

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002212028A (ja) * 2001-01-12 2002-07-31 Shiseido Co Ltd 油中水型乳化組成物およびこれを用いた乳化化粧料
JP2016204311A (ja) * 2015-04-23 2016-12-08 伊那食品工業株式会社 乳化組成物
WO2020067420A1 (fr) * 2018-09-28 2020-04-02 株式会社 資生堂 Produit cosmétique solide sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile
KR20210041232A (ko) * 2019-10-07 2021-04-15 (주)아모레퍼시픽 타마린드 검을 포함하는 유중수(w/o) 제형의 화장료 조성물

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP7442222B1 (ja) 2022-09-28 2024-03-04 株式会社東洋新薬 皮膚外用剤

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