WO2023112833A1

WO2023112833A1 - Water-in-oil cosmetic product

Info

Publication number: WO2023112833A1
Application number: PCT/JP2022/045339
Authority: WO
Inventors: 哲男海老原; 光希中村; 耕太郎 ▲高▼田; 元春木村
Original assignee: 株式会社資生堂
Priority date: 2021-12-17
Filing date: 2022-12-08
Publication date: 2023-06-22

Abstract

The present invention provides a water-in-oil cosmetic product having excellent usability and excellent stability. A first water-in-oil cosmetic product according to the present invention includes (A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having a sol-gel transition ability such as agar, (B) a xyloglucan such as tamarind gum, (C) water, and (D) an oil component. Furthermore, a second water-in-oil cosmetic product according to the present invention includes (F) a water soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid, and succinoglycan, (B) a xyloglucan, (C) water, and (D) an oil component.

Description

Water-in-oil cosmetics

The present invention relates to water-in-oil cosmetics. More specifically, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil type cosmetic that achieves excellent covering power, a fresh feel during use, and ease of spreading during application.

In cosmetics such as foundation, it is preferable to use oil-based cosmetics when the coverage is emphasized, but they often give an oily and sticky feeling. Powder-containing oil-in-water cosmetics containing powder have been investigated in order to improve the feeling of use, but there is still room for improvement from the viewpoint of covering power. On the other hand, water-in-oil type cosmetics with high covering power are also being studied, but there is still room for improvement in terms of freshness and moist feeling during use, and ease of spreadability during use.

In addition, in water-in-oil type cosmetics, the emulsified state may change due to vibration during transportation, etc., but there is a demand for highly stable cosmetics with less such changes.

International Publication No. 2010/087354

An object of the present invention is to provide a water-in-oil type cosmetic that is excellent in spreadability, less powdery when used, and has high covering power.

According to the present invention, the following inventions are provided.
[1] (A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel transition ability,
(B) xyloglucan,
A water-in-oil type cosmetic comprising (C) water and (D) oil.
[2] The cosmetic of [1], wherein component (A) is selected from the group consisting of agar, carrageenan, and gellan gum.
[3] The cosmetic of [1] or [2], wherein the component (B) is tamarind gum.
[4] The content of component (A) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic [1] The cosmetic according to any one of -[3].
[5] Any one of [1] to [4], wherein the ratio of the content of component (A) to the content of component (B) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is 50:1 to 1:50. Crab cosmetics.
[6] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5], further comprising (E) powder.
[7] (F) The water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid, and succinoglycan, according to any one of [1] to [6]. cosmetics.
[8] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [7], further comprising (G) an organically modified clay mineral.
[9] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [8], wherein the components (A) and (B) are contained in an aqueous phase.
[10] The cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [9], which has a viscosity of 1,000 to 50,000 Pa·s at 30°C.
[11] (F) a water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid, and succinoglycan;
(B) xyloglucan,
A water-in-oil type cosmetic comprising (C) water and (D) oil.
[12] The cosmetic of [12], wherein the component (B) is tamarind gum.
[13] The content of component (F) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic [11] Or the cosmetic according to [12].
[14] Any one of [11] to [13], wherein the ratio of the content of component (F) to the content of component (B) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is 50:1 to 1:50. Crab cosmetics.
[15] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [14], further comprising (E) powder.
[16] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [15], further comprising (G) an organically modified clay mineral.
[17] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [16], wherein the component (A) and the component (B) are contained in an aqueous phase.
[18] The cosmetic according to any one of [11] to [17], which has a viscosity of 1,000 to 50,000 Pa·s at 30°C.

According to the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic that is excellent in freshness when used, is less powdery, and is suitable for liquid foundation. This cosmetic material can realize high covering power, and furthermore, the cosmetic material has high stability, and the emulsified state does not easily change even when vibration is applied.

Specific description of the invention

[First cosmetics]
The first water-in-oil type cosmetic according to the present invention (hereinafter sometimes referred to simply as the first cosmetic) comprises (A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel transition ability, (B) xyloglucan, ( C) water, and (D) oil. Each component contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention is described below.

[Hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel transition ability]
A first cosmetic according to the present invention contains a combination of specific hydrophilic polymer compounds. One of them is a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel transition ability (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A)).

A hydrophilic polymer compound with sol-gel transition ability is one that reversibly forms a hydrophilic gel when a stimulus such as a temperature change is applied to its aqueous solution (sol). Such compounds are widely used in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc., and various types are known. For example, agar, carrageenan, gellan gum, and the like are known as hydrophilic polymers having sol-gel transition ability. Agar, carrageenan, and gellan gum form a gel by heating and dissolving and then solidifying upon cooling. It is preferable to use Furthermore, it can be preferably applied to the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in terms of gel properties, stability, feeling of use, and the like.

Component (A) is solidified by cooling, and the gel point (freezing point) of its aqueous solution is preferably 30°C or higher from the viewpoint of solidification at room temperature, and from the viewpoint of solubility during production, preferably 50°C or less, preferably 45°C or less. The gelation point of the aqueous solution of component (A) is preferably 30 to 50°C, more preferably 30 to 45°C, taking these viewpoints together. To determine the gelling point of the aqueous solution of component (A), take about 10 ml of the gelling agent aqueous solution in a medium-sized test tube (diameter 1.5 cm x 16 cm), insert a thermometer, and tilt the test tube at an angle from time to time to cool it. It is determined as the temperature at which the surface becomes fixed and does not move.

Agar has a basic structure that contains a large amount of galactose as a monosaccharide unit. It contains neutral agarose and agaropectin having an ionic group, and part of the agaropectin contains a sulfate group.

Carrageenan also has a basic structure containing a large amount of galactose as a monosaccharide unit. Carrageenan is classified into three classes, kappa-carrageenan, lambda-carrageenan, and iota-carrageenan, any of which can be used.

Gellan gum is a linear heteropolysaccharide whose main chain contains a repeating unit in which 2 glucose, 1 glucuronic acid, and 1 rhamnose tetrasaccharides are linked. Moreover, the hydroxyl group of glucose contained in the repeating unit may be substituted with an acetyl group.

Of these, there are many commercial products for agar, which can be selected according to the purpose. As agar, for example, Ina agar PS-84, Z-10, AX-30, AX-100, AX-200, T-1, S-5, M-7, CS-110 (manufactured by Ina Food Industry Co., Ltd.) etc. can be used.

In the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the content of component (A) is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. is more preferable.

[Xyloglucan]
The first cosmetic according to the present invention contains xyloglucan (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (B)) as a hydrophilic polymer compound to be combined with component (A). The basic structure of xyloglucan is a structure in which β-1,4-glucan is the main chain and xylose side chains are α-1,6-bonded to the main chain. As a side chain, galactose or fucose may be bound.

A typical example of xyloglucan is tamarind gum derived from tamarind seeds. In the present invention, it is preferable to use this tamarind gum. Tamarind gum is xyloglucan derived from a natural product, but it contains few impurities, and a stable product can be obtained when it is used. Tamarind gum is produced by crushing, separating and refining tamarind seeds.

In the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the content of component (B) is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. is more preferable.

In addition, in the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the effect expressed changes depending on the blending ratio of the (A) component and the (B) component. In order to strongly express the effects of the present invention, the ratio of the content of component (A) to the content of component (B) is preferably 50:1 to 1:50, more preferably 20:1 to 1:20. is more preferable.

[water]
The first water-in-oil type cosmetic according to the present invention contains an aqueous phase and an oil phase. Then, water (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (C)) is included as a component of the aqueous phase. As the water, water generally used in cosmetics can be used, for example, purified water, ion-exchanged water, tap water, and the like can be used.

In the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention, water forms an aqueous phase, and since the above-described components (A) and (B) are highly water-soluble, they are generally dissolved in the aqueous phase before being added to the cosmetic composition. preferably present in

[Oil content]
As the oil component (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (D) component) of the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention, either a polar oil or a non-polar oil is used as long as it is not mixed with the water phase and is liquid as a whole at the time of production. May be normal. One can choose from a wide range of oils that can be used in cosmetics. For example, liquid oils, solid oils, waxes, hydrocarbon oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, silicone oils and the like can be used arbitrarily.

Liquid fats and oils include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, sasanqua oil. Flower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, sinagiri oil, Japanese paulownia oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, etc. are exemplified.

Solid fats and oils include cacao butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, hydrogenated beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japanese wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, beef leg fat. , Japanese wax, hydrogenated castor oil and the like.

Waxes include beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, wart wax, whale wax, montan wax, bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojo Barlow, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether and the like are exemplified.

Examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalene, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, vaseline, and microcrystalline wax.

Examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, undecylenic acid, and thoric acid.

Examples of higher alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and cetostearyl alcohol.

Synthetic ester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, and myristyl lactate. , lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexylate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, etc. be done.

Examples of silicone oils include linear silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methylhydrogenpolysiloxane; Cyclic silicone oils such as siloxane are exemplified.

In the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the content of component (D) is preferably 10 to 70% by mass, more preferably 20 to 60% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .

[Other ingredients]
The first cosmetic according to the present invention may contain optional ingredients other than the above ingredients. One of such components is a powder (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (E) component). The powder can be arbitrarily selected from those commonly used in cosmetics, but since the cosmetic according to the present invention contains a relatively large amount of oil, it preferably contains hydrophobic powder. By including hydrophobic powder, the effect of improving water resistance can also be obtained. Hydrophobic powders include not only powders that are themselves hydrophobic, but also hydrophobized powders obtained by hydrophobizing powder surfaces, even though they are hydrophilic powders.

Specific examples of hydrophobic powder include polyamide resin powder (nylon powder), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polystyrene powder, styrene-acrylic acid copolymer resin powder, benzoguanamine resin powder, polytetrafluoride powder. Examples include organic powders such as ethylene chloride powder and cellulose powder, and silicone powders such as trimethylsilsesquioxane powder.

Powder components of the hydrophobized powder include, for example, talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, muscovite, phlogopite, synthetic mica, red mica, biotite, lithiamite, permiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, Aluminum silicate, barium silicate, calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, magnesium, silica, zeolite, barium sulfate, calcined calcium sulfate (calcined gypsum), calcium phosphate, fluorapatite, hydroxyapatite, Ceramic powder, metal soap (zinc myristate, calcium palmitate, aluminum stearate, etc.), inorganic powder such as boron nitride; inorganic white pigment such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide; inorganic such as iron oxide (red iron oxide) and iron titanate Red pigment; Inorganic brown pigment such as γ-iron oxide; Inorganic yellow pigment such as yellow iron oxide and ocher; Inorganic black pigment such as black iron oxide, carbon black and low order titanium dioxide; Mango violet, Baltic violet inorganic green pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, and cobalt titanate; inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine blue and dark blue; titanium dioxide-coated mica, titanium dioxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide-coated talc , colored titanium dioxide-coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, pearl pigments such as fish scale foil; metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder. In the present invention, these powder components are used after being hydrophobized. One type of these hydrophobic powders may be used, or two or more types may be used.

In the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the content of component (E) when blended is preferably 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 20% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. is more preferable.

In addition, it is preferable that the first cosmetic according to the present invention further contain xanthan gum. Xanthan gum is a water-soluble polymer compound, and its repeating unit is composed of two glucose main chains and two mannose and one glucuronic acid side chains.

Furthermore, similar effects can be obtained by using locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid, or succinoglycan instead of xanthan gum. Hereinafter, these water-soluble polymer compounds may be collectively referred to as component (F).

The combination of the (B) component and the (F) component tends to improve the stability of the cosmetic. This tendency is observed even when the component (A) is not present. In addition, there is a tendency to obtain effects of improving usability such as light spreadability and moisturizing feeling (moist feeling).

In the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention, when the component (F) is blended, the content is preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, preferably 0.02 to 0%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. .1 mass % is more preferred.

Moreover, the first cosmetic according to the present invention preferably further contains an organically modified clay mineral (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (G) component). As the organically modified clay mineral, for example, a clay mineral represented by the following general formula (1), which is a type of colloidal hydrous aluminum silicate having a three-layer structure, is modified with a quaternary ammonium salt-type cationic surfactant. things are mentioned.
(X, Y) _2-3 (Si, Al) ₄ O ₁₀ (OH) ₂ Z _1/3 nH ₂ O (1)
(where X=Al, Fe(III), Mn(III), or Cr(III),
Y=Mg, Fe(II), Ni, Zn, or Li,
Z=K, Na, or Ca
is)

Specifically, natural or synthetic montmorillonite groups such as montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite (in this case, the (OH) group in the formula is substituted with fluorine) (Beegum (trade name, manufactured by Vanderbilt Co.), Kunipia (trade name, manufactured by Kunimine Industry Co., Ltd.), Laponite (trade name, manufactured by BYK-Chemie Japan Co., Ltd.), etc.) and synthetic mica known as sodium silicic mica or sodium or lithium teniolite (for example, Daimonite (trade name, (manufactured by Topy Industries, Ltd.), etc., treated with a quaternary ammonium salt-type cationic surfactant.

In addition, the first cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain other ingredients than those mentioned above. For example, perfumes, water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, moisturizers, lipophilic thickeners, lower alcohols (less than 6 carbon atoms), antioxidants, antiphlogistic agents, whitening agents, various extracts, activators, blood circulation promoters, anti- Seborrhoeic agents, anti-inflammatory agents, oil-soluble film-forming agents, water-soluble film-forming agents, amino acids or peptides, and the like may also be included.

The first cosmetic composition according to the present invention can take various formulation forms, but is preferably used as a liquid foundation or the like. It is preferably 2,500 to 20,000 mPa·s, more preferably 2,800 to 10,000 mPa·s. When the viscosity is within such a range, it is easy to spread when applied, and an excellent feeling of use can be obtained.

The first cosmetic according to the present invention can be produced by any method. Various methods can be adopted, such as a method of blending each component and stirring and mixing, a method of mixing a water-soluble component to form an aqueous phase component, and a method of blending it with an oil phase component and then dispersing it. . In addition, since the cosmetic according to the present invention contains the component (A) having sol-gel transition ability, the gel containing the component (A) can be pulverized and blended.

The form of the first cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be, for example, makeup base, foundation, white powder, blusher, lipstick, mascara, eyeshadow, eyeliner, and the like. In particular, as a liquid cosmetic, it is preferably in a form that can be directly applied to the skin.

[Second cosmetics]
As described above, the second cosmetic in which the component (A) is replaced with the component (F) is superior in stability and usability compared to the first cosmetic according to the present invention. Specifically, this cosmetic comprises (F) a water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin alginic acid, and succinoglycan, (B) xyloglucan,
It comprises (C) water and (D) oil. The second cosmetic does not need to contain the component (A).

In the second cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the content of component (F) when blended is preferably 0.01 to 7% by mass, preferably 0.03 to 5%, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. % by mass is more preferred.

In the second cosmetic, components (B) to (E) and (G) and other components can contain the same materials as the first cosmetic in the same content. Furthermore, the formulation form and manufacturing method of the second cosmetic can also be selected from those similar to those of the first cosmetic.

[Example]
EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited by these. In addition, unless otherwise specified, the content represents % by mass with respect to the total mass of the cosmetic.

[Examples 1 to 13, Comparative Examples 1 to 5]
A water-in-oil type solid cosmetic having the composition shown in Table 1 below was produced and evaluated for the following items. Those results are also shown in Table 1 together.

Usability: No powderiness A: Almost no powdery feel B: Hard to feel powdery C: Slightly powdery D: Slightly powdery E: Powder feel like

Usability: Easy to spread A: Easy to spread B: Slightly easy to spread C: Slightly easy to spread D: Slightly difficult to spread E: Hard to spread

Usability: Moistness after application A: Feels moist B: Feels slightly moist C: Feels slightly moist D: Hardly feels moist E: Does not feel moist at all

Viscosity A sample of cosmetics having a viscosity of 30°C was measured with a BL viscometer, No. 3 at a rotational speed of 12 rpm.

Emulsion Stability Cosmetics were sealed in a container with a lid, and the state of the cosmetic was observed when it was subjected to constant vertical vibration and impact.
A: The emulsified particles did not coalesce even when an impact was applied, and the stability was good.
B: Coalescence of the emulsified particles was partially confirmed when impact was applied.
C: Coalescence of emulsified particles occurred when impact was applied, and enlargement of emulsified particles was observed.
D: Coalescence of emulsified particles was observed when impact was applied, and the frequency of enlarged emulsified particles was high. E: Separation of water occurred without applying impact, and the stability was poor.

*1 Ina Agar CS-110 (Ina Agar Foods Co., Ltd.)
*2 Ina Agar PS-84 (Ina Agar Foods Co., Ltd.)
*3 Nomkote ZZ (Nissin Oil Co., Ltd.)
*4 K-OB (CP Kelco Company)

Compared to the cosmetic of Comparative Example 1 which does not contain the components (A) and (B), the cosmetic of Example 1 is superior in all aspects of usability and emulsion stability. The effect of the present invention cannot be obtained if either component (A) or component (B) is lacking, and the effect of the present invention can be obtained even if component (B) is changed to another water-soluble polymer compound. (Comparative Examples 2 to 4).
Further, when the powder component is increased, usability tends to deteriorate (Comparative Example 7), but the usability of the cosmetic according to the present invention (Example 7) is remarkably improved.

[Examples 14 to 21, Comparative Examples 6 to 9]
Water-in-oil type solid cosmetics having compositions shown in Table 2 below were produced and evaluated according to the above criteria. Those results are also shown in Table 2 together.

*5: Mass average molecular weight★
*6: Mass average molecular weight★

It can be seen that the inclusion of the (F) component improves the high-temperature stability even when the (A) component is not included.

Claims

(A) a hydrophilic polymer compound having sol-gel transition ability,
(B) xyloglucan,
A water-in-oil type cosmetic comprising (C) water and (D) oil.
The cosmetic according to Claim 1, wherein the component (A) is selected from the group consisting of agar, carrageenan, and gellan gum.
The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (B) is tamarind gum.
Claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of component (A) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. Cosmetics as described.
The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the ratio of the content of component (A) to the content of component (B) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is 50:1 to 1:50.
(E) The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising powder.
(F) The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a water-soluble polymer compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid, and succinoglycan.
(G) The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising an organically modified clay mineral.
The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the component (A) and the component (B) are contained in the aqueous phase.
The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which has a viscosity of 1,000 to 50,000 Pa·s at 30°C.
(F) a water-soluble polymeric compound selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, locust bean gum, dextrin, alginic acid, and succinoglycan;
(B) xyloglucan,
A water-in-oil type cosmetic comprising (C) water and (D) oil.
The cosmetic according to claim 11, wherein the component (B) is tamarind gum.
Claim 11 or 12, wherein the content of component (F) is 0.01 to 7% by mass and the content of component (B) is 0.01 to 7% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic. Cosmetics as described.
The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, wherein the ratio of the content of component (F) to the content of component (B) based on the total mass of the cosmetic is 50:1 to 1:50.
(E) The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, further comprising powder.
(G) The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, further comprising an organically modified clay mineral.
The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, wherein the component (A) and the component (B) are contained in the aqueous phase.
The cosmetic according to claim 11 or 12, which has a viscosity of 1,000 to 50,000 Pa·s at 30°C.