WO2023112655A1 - Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et un ingrédient dérivé de plantes nymphaeacées - Google Patents

Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et un ingrédient dérivé de plantes nymphaeacées Download PDF

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WO2023112655A1
WO2023112655A1 PCT/JP2022/043840 JP2022043840W WO2023112655A1 WO 2023112655 A1 WO2023112655 A1 WO 2023112655A1 JP 2022043840 W JP2022043840 W JP 2022043840W WO 2023112655 A1 WO2023112655 A1 WO 2023112655A1
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weight
composition
composition according
water
plants
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PCT/JP2022/043840
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English (en)
Inventor
Adrien KAESER
Asuka SUEHIRA
Yi-Yun TSAO
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from JP2021205210A external-priority patent/JP2023090305A/ja
Priority claimed from FR2200465A external-priority patent/FR3131841A1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023112655A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023112655A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition.
  • the present invention relates to use of the composition and cosmetic method with the composition.
  • cosmetic compositions making it possible to obtain care effects are increasingly sought-after by users.
  • active agents are generally included in the compositions.
  • an oil can be used as a medium in the formulation in order to achieve a good penetration property of the active agents into keratinous substances.
  • JP-T-2020-514263 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising from 30% to 89% by weight of at least one polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, from 10% to 45% by weight of at least one C2-C6 aliphatic monoalcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, and from 0.5% to 50% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one hydrophilic active agent, said composition comprising less than 7% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition comprising an oil and a water-soluble alcohol, which can provide an improved sensation to keratinous substances, such as the skin, scalp and hair, and can provide care effects with keratinous fibers, such as the hair.
  • composition comprising:
  • the (d) at least one ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may be extracts from Nymphaeaceous plants.
  • the (d) at least one ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may be the root extracts.
  • the Nymphaeaceous plants may be selected from a group consisting of Nymphaea plants, such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (Fragrant water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (Blue pigmy), Nymphaea Mexicana (Yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (India red water lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian white water-lily), Tropical water lily, Nymphaea tetragona (Pygmy water lily), and Nymphaea cv.
  • the (d) at least one ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0005% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0025% to 1 % by weight, even more preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, in particular 0.005% to 0.1% by weight, and preferentially 0.005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol and at least one polyol in combination.
  • the (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) at least one oil may be chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.
  • the amount of the (c) at least one oil may range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent may be selected from moisturizers; depigmenting agents; desquamating agents; anti-ageing agents; mattifying agents; cicatrizing agents; antibacterial agents; blood-circulation promoting ingredient; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention be in a form of a homogeneous solution.
  • the (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one diol, and the amount of the at least one diol may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or conditioning a keratin material, such as the skin, scalp and/or hair, comprising applying to the keratin material, the composition according to the present invention.
  • Figure 1 shows a schematic view of how to determine bending angles.
  • the use of at least one ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants can provide a composition comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent, at least one water-soluble alcohol, and at least one oil with less greasy feelings during application and further care effects, such as strength of hair, smooth feeling to the touch, and volumizing effects of hair, and thus completed the present invention.
  • the present invention relates to a composition and use of thereof, comprising:
  • composition and cosmetic process according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
  • composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol, (c) at least one oil, and (d) at least one ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants.
  • the ingredients in the composition will be described in a detailed manner below.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent.
  • hydrophilic active agents Two or more hydrophilic active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic active agent or a combination of different types of hydrophilic active agents may be used.
  • Hydrophilic active agent here is intended to mean an active agent for the skin and/or scalp, which is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the water at room temperature (25°C) and atmosphere pressure (10 5 Pa).
  • said hydrophilic active agent is chosen from moisturizers; depigmenting agents; desquamating agents; anti-ageing agents; mattifying agents; cicatrizing agents; antibacterial agents; blood-circulation promoting ingredient; and mixtures thereof.
  • said hydrophilic active agent is chosen from C-glycosides, salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent chosen from C-glycosides of the following general formula (I): S ⁇ X-R (I) in which:
  • R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 and especially C1-C2 alkyl radical, in particular methyl;
  • S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-giucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
  • X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CHfNHz)- and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group; and also the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.
  • C-glycoside derivatives of formula (I) that are more particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may especially be made of the following compounds: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;
  • a C-glycoside of formula (I) that is suitable for the present invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, the INCI name of which is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROP YR ANTRIOL, sold especially under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by NO VEAL.
  • the salts of the C-glycosides of formula (I) that are suitable for the present invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may especially be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
  • mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid.
  • organic acids may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These
  • solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the C-glycosides (I) are also known from the document WO 02/051828.
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, in particular of formula (II) below: in which:
  • Rb is a hydroxyl group; and also salts thereof derived from an inorganic or organic base.
  • the radical Ra denotes:
  • a carboxyl function in free form or in a form esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and also salts thereof obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base.
  • the compounds that are more particularly preferred are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group.
  • 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid or capryloylsalicylic acid
  • 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid or capryloylsalicylic acid
  • 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid
  • 5 -n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and the corresponding salts thereof.
  • the salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid will more particularly be used.
  • 5-n-octanoylsalicyliic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid) is provided under the name Mexoiyl SAB® by the company Chimex.
  • inorganic bases examples include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia.
  • organic bases examples include amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance those described in patent FR 2 607 498, are particularly advantageous.
  • the compounds of formula (II) that may be used according to the present invention are described in patents US 6 159 479, US 5 558 871, FR 2 581 542, FR 2 607 498, US 4 767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267 407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP A-570230.
  • hydrophilic active agent As another hydrophilic active agent, mention can be made of a blood-circulation promoting ingredient, such as Dl-a-tocopherol acetate, tocopherol nicotinate, glucosyl hesperidin, hesperidin, caffeine, y-oryzanol, capsaicin, nicotinic acid benzyl ester, and the like.
  • a blood-circulation promoting ingredient such as Dl-a-tocopherol acetate, tocopherol nicotinate, glucosyl hesperidin, hesperidin, caffeine, y-oryzanol, capsaicin, nicotinic acid benzyl ester, and the like.
  • hydrophilic active agent As another hydrophilic active agent, mention can be made of amino acid or its derivative, such as betain(trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, 0-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine, taurine, y-aminobutyric acid, y-amino- -hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosine, creatine, epsilon aminocaproic acid, tryptophan, and the like.
  • amino acid or its derivative such as betain(trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenyla
  • hydrophilic active agent examples include water-soluble polysaccharides, such as gums, for example, gellan gum, xanthan gum, sclerothium gum, locust bean gum, biosaccharide gum, tamarind gum, quince seed, arabic gum, carrageenan, tara gum, guar gum, galactan, arabic gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, curdran, succinoglucan, etc.; carrageenan; heparin-like substances; alginic acids, and the like.
  • gums for example, gellan gum, xanthan gum, sclerothium gum, locust bean gum, biosaccharide gum, tamarind gum, quince seed, arabic gum, carrageenan, tara gum, guar gum, galactan, arabic gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, curdran, succinoglucan, etc.
  • carrageenan heparin-like substances; alginic acids, and
  • the hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, even more preferably 2% by weight or more, and in particular 3% by weight or more by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight or more, from 0.5% to 15% by weight more preferably from 1 % to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol. Two or more water-soluble alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of water-soluble alcohol or a combination of different types of water-soluble alcohols may be used.
  • water-soluble alcohol here means an alcohol which can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more in 100 mL of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (10 5 Pa).
  • the water-soluble alcohol of the present invention may be selected from monoalcohol and polyol. In some embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol and at least one polyol in combination.
  • the monoalcohol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated mono-alcohols having from
  • the monoalcohol may be aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • aliphatic monoalcohol here means any linear or branched, saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
  • the aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the present invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the monoalcohol can be selected from linear aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyol that is suitable for use in the present invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
  • a polyol that may be used in the composition according to the present invention is a compound of linear or branched, preferably linear alkyl type bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those especially having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the polyols that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; mention may be made especially of:
  • - diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol;
  • triols such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol comprises at least one diol.
  • the polyol comprises at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functions, in particular triol, in combination.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises the water-soluble alcohol(s) in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 65% by weight or more, and even more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, and even more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the monoalcohol may be present in an amount of 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably 60% by weight or more, and even more preferably 65% by weight or more; and may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, more preferably 80% by weight or less, and even more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyol may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more; and may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 12% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises both of the monoalcohol and the polyol, preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 40% to 90% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 50% to 85% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, even more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 60% to 80% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, and in particular a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 65% to 75% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 7% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one diol
  • the diol may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more; and may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, and the polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups may be present in an amount of 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 1.2% by weight or more; and may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises a combination of at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, the diol in an amount range from 1% to 25% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight; more preferably the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 50% to 85% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight; even more preferably the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 60% to 80% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 1% to 5% by weight; and in particular the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 65% to 75% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 5% to 10% by weight, and the triol.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one oil.
  • Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
  • oils means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.
  • sicone oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • polar oil is intended to mean an oil of which the solubility parameter 5a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • polar oil is intended to mean an oil of which the chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the parameters 5 P , 5h, 5D and 5 a are expressed as (J/cm 3 )' /2 .
  • the polar oils used according to the present invention have a 5 a of between 4 and 9.1, preferably a 5a of between 6 and 9.1, even better still between 7.3 and 9.1.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • the esters of monoalcohols at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
  • the ester oils of the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols may be represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferable 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 is > 10.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate
  • isostearyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • ester oil is selected from fatty acid ester oils.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols may also be used.
  • esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance, methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate,
  • dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:
  • R’-O-R 2 wherein each of R 1 and R 2 independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably Ce-Cis alkyl group, and more preferably C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R 1 and R 2 are the same.
  • linear alkyl group mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and an tetracosyl group.
  • branched alkyl group mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-octyl group,
  • cyclic alkyl group mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3-methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca
  • the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.
  • cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula: with D" : — Si - O — and with D' : - Si - O —
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s; and the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
  • the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000
  • the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
  • the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula: in which
  • Ri to Rio independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.
  • oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia examples include the products sold under the following names: the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia; the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming; the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20; certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
  • the hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9-12 Alkane, C10-13 Alkane, C13-14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C18-21Alkane, C8-9 Alkane/Cycloalkane, C9- 10 Alkane/Cycloalkane, C
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated linear radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated branched radical containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated .C6-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used.
  • Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used.
  • Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol can be used as a saturated- fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
  • the oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g/mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C12-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • C1-C12 ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains
  • silicone oils e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane
  • hydrocarbon oils
  • the oil be chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and a combination thereof. It is further preferred that the oil comprise both of ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols represented by the formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH, wherein R is chosen from saturated branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R1COOR2 the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols represented by the formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 2
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises N-acylamino acid ester oil(s) in an amount of less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free from N-acylamino acid ester oil.
  • N-acylamino acid ester oil mention can be made of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants. Two or more types of ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants or a combination of different types of ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may be used.
  • “Ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants” is intended to mean any substances which are derived from Nymphaeaceous plants.
  • the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may include Nymphaeaceous plants, tissue, extracts, juice or slurry thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may be selected from commercially available products comprising Nymphaeaceous plants, tissue, extracts, juice or slurry thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • the Nymphaeaceous plants may be selected from Nymphaea plants, such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (Fragrant water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (Blue pigmy), Nymphaea Mexicana (Yellow water lily), Nymphaea rubra (India red water lily), Nymphaea lotus (Egyptian white water-lily), Tropical water lily, Nymphaea tetragona (Pygmy water lily), and Nymphaea cv.
  • Nymphaea plants such as Nymphaea alba (white water lily), Nymphaea odorata (Fragrant water lily), Nymphaea gigantea (Australian water lily), Nymphaea colorata (Blue pigmy), Nymphaea Mexicana (Yellow
  • Nymphaeaceous plants may be selected from Nymphaea plants. In a specific embodiment, Nymphaeaceous plants may be selected from Nymphaea alba.
  • the Nymphaeaceous plants may be whole or a part of a plant, such as a whole plant, an aerial part thereof, a root, flower bulbs, seeds, sprouts, a seed, leaves, flowers or a combination thereof.
  • the extracts, juice or sluny may be derived from whole or a part of a plant, such as a whole plant, an aerial part thereof, a root, flower bulbs, seeds, sprouts, a seed, leaves, flowers or a combination thereof.
  • the extract of a Nymphaeaceous plants may be a solvent extract, preferably an aqueous extract, an alcohol extract, or a water-alcohol extract such as water-propylene glycol extract.
  • the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants is a root extract of the Nymphaeaceous plants.
  • the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants may advantageously be Nymphaea alba root extract, sold especially under the name WATER LILY PRO by LIPOID KOSMETIK.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) derived from Nymphaeaceous plants in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.0005% by weight or more, preferably 0.001% by weight or more, more preferably 0.0025% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.005% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the ingredient(s) derived from Nymphaeaceous plants in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less and even more preferably 0.05% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the agent(s) comprising ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.0005% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.0025% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight, in particular 0.005% to 0.1% by weight, and preferentially 0.005% to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can comprise water.
  • the amount of water may depend on the amount of the other ingredients.
  • the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, even more preferably 5% by weight or more, and preferentially 7% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, more preferably 60% by weight or less, more preferably 50% by weight or less, more preferably 40% by weight or less, more preferably 30% by weight or less, even more preferably 20% by weight or less, and in particular 10% by weight less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 1% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 70% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 50% by weight, preferentially 3% to 40% by weight, more preferentially 3% to 30% by weight, even more preferentially 5% to 20% by weight, in particular 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular water-soluble organic solvents; cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; pH adjusters; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; suspending agents; sequestering agents; buffers; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; essential oils; soluble dyes; agents which can cause a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and mixtures thereof.
  • a physiologically acceptable medium in particular water
  • the adjuvants may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may take various forms, such as, a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), multiple (e.g., W/O/W, polyol/O/W, and O/W/O) emulsions, and the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution.
  • the term “homogeneous” is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.
  • the composition comprises surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, which are different from components (a) to (d) of the present invention, in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free from any surfactants which are different from components (a) to (d) of the present invention.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise sugar in amounts less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, more preferably less than 10% by weight, even more preferably less than 5% by weight, and in particular less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any sugar.
  • the composition according to the present invention may comprise phospholipid in amounts less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.2% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any phospholipid.
  • composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application, especially to keratin materials.
  • keratin materials is intended to mean the skin and keratinous fibers.
  • skin used herein includes facial and/or bodily skin and the scalp.
  • keratinous fiber used herein includes eyelashes, eyebrows, and hair.
  • the composition is intended for topical application to keratin materials such as the scalp, skin, and hair.
  • the composition may be a hair care and/or a scalp care and/or skin care composition.
  • composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic composition.
  • leave-on means a composition that is not intended to be washed/rinsed out or removed immediately after application.
  • a leave-on composition is different from a rinse-off type composition, which is intended to be rinsed off after being used on keratin materials.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a method comprising following steps:
  • soluble ingredients such as deionized water, water-soluble alcohols, water-soluble diols, water-soluble actives, and thickener if any, are added into a beaker at room temperature;
  • step (ii) the mixture from step (i) is stirred until all ingredients are fully dissolved;
  • step (iv) the mixture from step (iii) is stirred until all ingredients are fully dissolved.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or conditioning a keratin material, such as the hair, scalp and/or skin, comprising applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.
  • Cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and/or conditioning a keratin material.
  • the application step can be performed by any conventional means such as an applicator, e.g., hands, a spray, and a brush.
  • the application step can be a topical application step.
  • the composition according to the present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not include a rinse-out or wash-out step of the applied composition from the keratin material after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention does not include a rinse-out or wash-out step of the applied composition within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after the application step.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular caring for and/or conditioning a keratin material.
  • compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Example 1 were prepared by mixing ingredients listed in the following Tables 1.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol product of MEXORYL SCN® was obtained from NOVEAL.
  • Nymphaea Alba Root Extract product of WATER LILY PRO® was obtained from LIPOID KOSMETIK.
  • the root of the hair swatch was fixed on a plate.
  • the tip of the tress was held and oriented upwardly, and then, the tip of the tress was released such that the tip of the tress could be directed downwardly.
  • the hair swatch was allowed to naturally bend with gravity.
  • the angle between the plate and the root of the hair swatch (hair bundle) was measured using image analysis software as a means to extrapolate the hair strength/firmness.
  • the results are shown in the following Table 3.
  • the bending angle of the hair swatch itself was 71 °.
  • a bending angle of 74° or more is a threshold to consider to provide good strength.
  • the smoothness, greasiness and firmness were assessed in accordance with the following criteria (1 to 5).
  • the benchmark means the assessment result for the hair swatch itself, i.e., without the application of any composition.
  • compositions according to Examples 1 to 3 each of which comprises the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants were able to provide hair with higher strength.
  • Example 2 which comprises the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants was able to decrease greasy feelings as well as provide hair with improved cosmetic effects, such as smoothness and firmness.
  • composition according to Comparative Example 1 which does not comprise ingredients derived from Nymphaeaceous plants, caused more greasy feelings and less smooth and firm properties and decreased the strength of hair.
  • the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants could decrease greasiness and increase smoothness of the hair swatch after application of the composition, even though the composition comprises an oil.
  • the result indicates that the composition comprising the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants can provide hair with the smooth-but-not-greasy coating.
  • the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants could increase firmness of the hair swatch. The increase in hair firmness indicates that the addition of the ingredient derived from Nymphaeaceous plants can provide hair with volume boosting.
  • the composition according to the present invention can exhibit a better acceptability as cosmetic products with decreased greasy feelings, in particular for topical cosmetic composition for scalp.
  • the composition according to the present invention can provide hair with improved strength, smoother and less grease texture.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can maintain a good penetration property of active agents for skin and/or scalp. Accordingly, it can be concluded that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is very preferable as a topical cosmetic composition for caring for and/or conditioning keratin materials, in particular scalp.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant : (A) au moins un agent actif hydrophile; (b) au moins un alcool soluble dans l'eau; (c) au moins une huile; et (d) au moins un ingrédient dérivé de plantes de la famille des Nymphaeacées, qui est différent de (a) au moins un agent actif hydrophile.
PCT/JP2022/043840 2021-12-17 2022-11-22 Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et un ingrédient dérivé de plantes nymphaeacées WO2023112655A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2021-205210 2021-12-17
JP2021205210A JP2023090305A (ja) 2021-12-17 2021-12-17 油、水溶性アルコール及びスイレン科植物に由来する成分を含む組成物
FR2200465A FR3131841A1 (fr) 2022-01-20 2022-01-20 C omposition comprenant de l'huile, de l'alcool hydrosoluble et un ingrédient dérivé de plantes nymphéacées
FR2200465 2022-01-20

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WO2023112655A1 true WO2023112655A1 (fr) 2023-06-22

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FR2607498A1 (fr) 1986-12-01 1988-06-03 Oreal Nouveaux salicylates lipophiles d'ammoniums quaternaires, leur utilisation en cosmetique et en dermopharmacie
EP0378936A2 (fr) 1988-12-16 1990-07-25 L'oreal Utilisation de dérivés salicylés pour le traitement du vieillissement de la peau
EP0570230A1 (fr) 1992-05-15 1993-11-18 Shiseido Company Limited Préparation externe pour la peau
US5267407A (en) 1990-04-18 1993-12-07 Forjas Taurus S/A Safety device for semiautomatic pistol
US5558871A (en) 1994-01-10 1996-09-24 L'oreal Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions containing salicylic acid
US5667789A (en) 1994-11-03 1997-09-16 L'oreal Salicylic acid derivative as a stabilizer for an oil-in-water emulsion
US6159479A (en) 1997-09-16 2000-12-12 L'oreal Hydrous salicylic acid solutions
WO2002051828A2 (fr) 2000-12-22 2002-07-04 L'oreal Nouveau derives c-glycosides et utilisation
FR2791565B1 (fr) * 1999-03-30 2002-08-30 Seppic Sa Utilisation d'une composition a base d'isostearylglycoside et d'alcool isostearylique comme agent ameliorant la resistance a l'eau d'une composition cosmetique
EP1061895B1 (fr) * 1998-03-09 2003-04-23 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques, S.E.P.P.I.C. Composition synergique comprenant un compose a structure lipoaminoacide et un extrait de nenuphar
EP1875894A2 (fr) * 2006-07-03 2008-01-09 L'oreal Utilisation d'au moins un dérivé C-glycoside à titre d'agent apaisant
FR2914185A1 (fr) * 2007-03-27 2008-10-03 Oreal Tonique contenant un extrait de nenuphar.
FR3000676A1 (fr) * 2013-01-10 2014-07-11 Oreal Composition de coloration d'oxydation comprenant un extrait huileux de fleurs de lotus, procede de coloration et dispositif approprie
JP2020514263A (ja) 2016-12-22 2020-05-21 ロレアル １種以上の極性油、ｃ２〜ｃ６脂肪族モノアルコール及びポリオール、少なくとも１種の親水性活性薬剤を含み、７質量％未満の水を含む化粧用組成物

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FR2581542A1 (fr) 1985-05-07 1986-11-14 Oreal Compositions topiques destinees au traitement de la peau a base de derives de l'acide salicylique
US4767750A (en) 1985-05-07 1988-08-30 L'oreal Topical compositions intended for skin treatment containing salicylic acid derivatives
FR2607498A1 (fr) 1986-12-01 1988-06-03 Oreal Nouveaux salicylates lipophiles d'ammoniums quaternaires, leur utilisation en cosmetique et en dermopharmacie
EP0378936A2 (fr) 1988-12-16 1990-07-25 L'oreal Utilisation de dérivés salicylés pour le traitement du vieillissement de la peau
US5267407A (en) 1990-04-18 1993-12-07 Forjas Taurus S/A Safety device for semiautomatic pistol
EP0570230A1 (fr) 1992-05-15 1993-11-18 Shiseido Company Limited Préparation externe pour la peau
US5580549A (en) 1992-05-15 1996-12-03 Shiseido Co., Ltd. External preparation for skin
US5558871A (en) 1994-01-10 1996-09-24 L'oreal Cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions containing salicylic acid
US5667789A (en) 1994-11-03 1997-09-16 L'oreal Salicylic acid derivative as a stabilizer for an oil-in-water emulsion
US6159479A (en) 1997-09-16 2000-12-12 L'oreal Hydrous salicylic acid solutions
EP1061895B1 (fr) * 1998-03-09 2003-04-23 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques, S.E.P.P.I.C. Composition synergique comprenant un compose a structure lipoaminoacide et un extrait de nenuphar
FR2791565B1 (fr) * 1999-03-30 2002-08-30 Seppic Sa Utilisation d'une composition a base d'isostearylglycoside et d'alcool isostearylique comme agent ameliorant la resistance a l'eau d'une composition cosmetique
WO2002051828A2 (fr) 2000-12-22 2002-07-04 L'oreal Nouveau derives c-glycosides et utilisation
EP1875894A2 (fr) * 2006-07-03 2008-01-09 L'oreal Utilisation d'au moins un dérivé C-glycoside à titre d'agent apaisant
FR2914185A1 (fr) * 2007-03-27 2008-10-03 Oreal Tonique contenant un extrait de nenuphar.
FR3000676A1 (fr) * 2013-01-10 2014-07-11 Oreal Composition de coloration d'oxydation comprenant un extrait huileux de fleurs de lotus, procede de coloration et dispositif approprie
JP2020514263A (ja) 2016-12-22 2020-05-21 ロレアル １種以上の極性油、ｃ２〜ｃ６脂肪族モノアルコール及びポリオール、少なくとも１種の親水性活性薬剤を含み、７質量％未満の水を含む化粧用組成物

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TODDBYERS, VOLATILE SILICONE FLUIDS FOR COSMETICS
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