WO2023112544A1 - Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et une gomme de guar non ionique - Google Patents

Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et une gomme de guar non ionique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023112544A1
WO2023112544A1 PCT/JP2022/041281 JP2022041281W WO2023112544A1 WO 2023112544 A1 WO2023112544 A1 WO 2023112544A1 JP 2022041281 W JP2022041281 W JP 2022041281W WO 2023112544 A1 WO2023112544 A1 WO 2023112544A1
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weight
composition
composition according
guar gum
oil
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PCT/JP2022/041281
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English (en)
Inventor
Adrien Kaeser
Yi-Yun TSAO
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from JP2021205208A external-priority patent/JP2023090303A/ja
Priority claimed from FR2200241A external-priority patent/FR3131692A1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2023112544A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023112544A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition comprising an oil, a water-soluble alcohol, and nonionic guar, in particular a cosmetic composition for keratinous substances, comprising the same.
  • cosmetic compositions that make it possible to obtain care effects are increasingly sought after by users.
  • active agents are generally included in the compositions.
  • an oil can be used as a medium in the formulation in order to achieve a good penetration property of the active agents into keratinous substances.
  • JP-T-2020-514263 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising from 30% to 89% by weight of at least one polar oil relative to the total weight of the composition, from 10% to 45% by weight of at least one C2-C6 aliphatic monoalcohol relative to the total weight of the composition, and from 0.5% to 50% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one hydrophilic active agent, said composition comprising less than 7% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition comprising an oil and an alcohol, which can provide an improved sensation to keratinous materials, such as skin, scalp, and hair.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • the (d) at least one nonionic guar gum may be hydroxyalkyl guar gum, preferably hydroxyalkyl guar gum having Ci to Ce hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferably hydroxypropyl guar gum or hydroxyethyl guar gum, and in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum.
  • the (d) at least one nonionic guar gum may have a degree of substitution of more than 0.6, preferably 0.7 or more, more preferably 0.8 or more, even more preferably 0.9 or more, preferentially 1.0 or more, and in particular 1.1 or more.
  • the (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol in combination.
  • the (b) at least One water-soluble alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) at least one oil may be chosen from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and combinations thereof.
  • the amount of the (c) at least one oil may range from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent may be selected from moisturizers; depigmenting agents; desquamating agents; anti-ageing agents; mattifying agents; cicatrizing agents; blood-circulation promoting ingredient; antibacterial agents; and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (e) water may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to present invention it is in the form of a homogeneous solution.
  • composition according to present invention be a leave-on type cosmetic composition.
  • the (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol may comprise at least one diol, and the amount of the at least one diol may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or conditioning a keratin material, such as skin, scalp and/or hair, comprising applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic process may not include a rinse out or wash out step of the applied composition within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after applying the composition.
  • a specific nonionic guar gum can provide a composition comprising at least one hydrophilic active agent and specific amounts of at least one water-soluble alcohol, at least one oil, and water with improved stability while refraining greasy feelings during application, and thus completed the present invention.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising:
  • composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent, (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol, (c) at least one oil, (d) at least one nonionic guar gum, and (e) water.
  • the ingredients in the composition will be described in a detailed manner below.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrophilic active agent.
  • hydrophilic active agents Two or more hydrophilic active agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of hydrophilic active agent or a combination of different types of hydrophilic active agents may be used.
  • Hydrophilic active agent is intended to mean here an active agent for skin and/or scalp, which is soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmosphere pressure (10 5 Pa).
  • hydrophilic active agents mention may be made, for example, of moisturizers; depigmenting agents; desquamating agents; anti-ageing agents; mattifying agents; cicatrizing agents; blood-circulation promoting ingredient; antibacterial agents; and mixtures thereof.
  • the said hydrophilic active agent is chosen from C-glycosides, salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent chosen from C-glycosides of the following general formula (I):
  • R denotes an unsubstituted linear Ci -C4 and especially Ci -C2 alkyl radical, in particular methyl;
  • S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
  • X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group; and also the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates, and optical isomers thereof.
  • C-glycoside derivatives of formula (I) that are more particularly suitable for the invention, mention may especially be made of the following compounds: C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;
  • C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2 -hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane use is made of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2 -hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
  • a C-glycoside of formula (I) that is suitable for the invention may advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, the INCI name of which is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROP YR ANTRIOL, sold especially under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by NO VEAL.
  • the salts of the C-glycosides of formula (I) that are suitable for the invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may also comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may especially be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
  • mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid.
  • organic acids may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or alternatively aromatic acids. These
  • solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples that may be mentioned include solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic active agent chosen from salicylic acid and salicylic acid derivatives, in particular of formula (II) below: in which:
  • Rb is a hydroxyl group; and also salts thereof derived from an inorganic or organic base.
  • the radical Ra denotes:
  • a carboxyl function in free form or in a form esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and also salts thereof obtained by salification with an inorganic or organic base.
  • the compounds that are more particularly preferred are those in which the radical Ra is a C3-C11 alkyl group.
  • 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid or capryloylsalicylic acid
  • 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid or 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid
  • 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid and the corresponding salts thereof.
  • the salicylic acid compound is advantageously chosen from salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.
  • 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid will more particularly be used.
  • 5-n-Octanoylsalicyliic acid or capryloylsalicylic acid
  • Mexoryl SAB® by the company Chimex.
  • inorganic bases examples include alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, for instance, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia.
  • organic bases examples include amines and alkanolamines. Quaternary salts, for instance, those described in patent FR 2 607498, are particularly advantageous.
  • the compounds of formula (II) that may be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6 159479, US 5 558 871, FR 2 581 542, FR2607498, US 4767 750, EP 378 936, US 5 267407, US 5 667 789, US 5 580 549 and EP A-570230.
  • hydrophilic active agent As another hydrophilic active agent, mention can be made of blood-circulation promoting ingredients, such as Dl-a-tocopherol acetate, tocopherol nicotinate, glucosyl hesperidin, hesperidin, caffeine, y-oryzanol, capsaicin, nicotinic acid benzyl ester, and the like.
  • blood-circulation promoting ingredients such as Dl-a-tocopherol acetate, tocopherol nicotinate, glucosyl hesperidin, hesperidin, caffeine, y-oryzanol, capsaicin, nicotinic acid benzyl ester, and the like.
  • hydrophilic active agent As another hydrophilic active agent, mention can be made of amino acid or its derivative, such as betain(trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, p-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, histidine, threonine, tyrosine, taurine, y-aminobutyric acid, y-amino-0-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, camosine, creatine, epsilon aminocaproic acid, tryptophan, and the like.
  • amino acid or its derivative such as betain(trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenyla
  • hydrophilic active agent examples include water-soluble polysaccharides, such as gums, for example, gellan gum, xanthan gum, sclerothium gum, locust bean gum, biosaccharide gum, tamarind gum, quince seed, arabic gum, carrageenan, tara gum, guar gum, galactan, arabic gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, curdran, succinoglucan, etc.; carrageenan; heparin-like substances; alginic acids, and the like.
  • gums for example, gellan gum, xanthan gum, sclerothium gum, locust bean gum, biosaccharide gum, tamarind gum, quince seed, arabic gum, carrageenan, tara gum, guar gum, galactan, arabic gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, curdran, succinoglucan, etc.
  • carrageenan heparin-like substances; alginic acids, and
  • the hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1 % by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1% by weight or more, even more preferably 2% by weight or more, and in particular 3% by weight or more by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 12% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrophilic active agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight or more, from 0.5% to 15% by weight more preferably from 1% to 12% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight or more, and in particular from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble alcohol.
  • Two or more water-soluble alcohols may be used in combination.
  • a single type of water-soluble alcohol or a combination of different types of water-soluble alcohols may be used.
  • the term “water-soluble alcohol” here means an alcohol which can dissolve in an amount of 0.1 g or more, 0.5 g or more, or 1 g or more in 100 mL water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmosphere pressure (10 5 Pa).
  • the water-soluble alcohol of the present invention may be selected from monoalcohol and polyol. In some embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one monoalcohol and at least one polyol in combination.
  • the monoalcohol may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated mono-alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
  • the monoalcohol may be aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • aliphatic monoalcohol here means any linear or branched, saturated alkane compound bearing only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
  • the aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in the compositions of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the monoalcohol can be selected from linear aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
  • a polyol that may be used in the composition according to the invention is a compound of linear or branched, preferably linear alkyl type bearing at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those especially having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • polyols that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from linear or branched, preferably linear polyols having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; mention may be made especially of:
  • - diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol;
  • triols such as glycerol (glycerin), and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol comprises at least one diol and at least one polyol having three or more -OH functions, in particular triol, in combination.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises the water-soluble alcohol(s) in an amount of 40% by weight or more relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, more preferably 65% by weight or more, and even more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, more preferably 85% by weight or less, and even more preferably 80% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, and even more preferably from 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the monoalcohol may be present in an amount of 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably 60% by weight or more, and even more preferably 65% by weight or more; and may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, more preferably 80% by weight or less, and even more preferably 75% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyol may be present in an amount of 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, and even more preferably 7% by weight or more; and may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 12% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises both of the monoalcohol and the polyol, preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 40% to 90% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 50% to 85% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, even more preferably a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 60% to 80% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, and in particular a combination of the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 65% to 75% by weight and the polyol in an amount ranging from 7% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one diol, and the diol may be present in an amount of 1 % by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more; and may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water-soluble alcohol comprises at least one polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups, in particular triol, and the polyol having three or more hydroxyl groups may be present in an amount of 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 1 % by weight or more, and even more preferably 1.2% by weight or more; and may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises a combination of at least one monoalcohol, at least one diol, and at least one triol.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 40% to 90% by weight, the diol in an amount range from 1% to 25% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight; more preferably the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 50% to 85% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight; even more preferably the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 60% to 80% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, and the triol in an amount ranging from 1% to 5% by weight; and in particular the monoalcohol in an amount ranging from 65% to 75% by weight, the diol in an amount ranging from 5% to 10% by weight, and the triol.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one oil.
  • Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
  • oils means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.
  • silicon oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • polar oil is intended to mean an oil of which the solubility parameter 5 a at 25°C is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • polar oil is intended to mean an oil of which the chemical structure is formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the parameters 8p, 8h, 8D and 8 a are expressed as (J/cm 3 )' /2 .
  • the polar oils used according to the present invention have a 8 a of between 4 and 9.1, preferably a 8 a of between 6 and 9.1 , even better still between 7.3 and 9.1.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
  • the ester oils of the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols may be represented by formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferable 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R> is > 10.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate
  • isostearyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • ester oil is selected from fatty acid ester oils.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols may also be used.
  • esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance, methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopahnitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates.
  • ester oils An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
  • preferable ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate
  • dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula: R’-O-R 2 wherein each of R 1 and R 2 independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably Ce-Cis alkyl group, and more preferably C8-C12 alkyl group. It is preferable that R 1 and R 2 are the same.
  • linear alkyl group mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and a tetracosyl group.
  • branched alkyl group mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5 -methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5 -methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-osteary
  • cyclic alkyl group mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3 -methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl group.
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • capryl caprylyl glycerides glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca
  • the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • these silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • the organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones ( 1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula:
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000; the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm 2 /s; and the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
  • the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia for instance the oil 70047 V 500000
  • the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm 2 /s
  • the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series SF
  • polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
  • the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula: in which
  • Ri to Rio independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive, with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
  • silicones of the PK series from Bayer such as the product PK20
  • certain oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
  • the hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Ce-Cie lower alkanes.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9-12 Alkane, Cl 0-13 Alkane, Cl 3- 14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C18-21Alkane, C8-9 Alkane/Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane/Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane/Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane/Cycloalkane, Cl 0-12 Al
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, pahnitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. It is also preferable that the oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight below 600 g/mol.
  • the oil has a low molecular weight such as below 600 g/mol, chosen among ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C1-C12) (e.g., isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethyl hexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C12-C30) type oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • C1-C12 ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains
  • silicone oils e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane
  • hydrocarbon oils
  • the oil be chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils, fatty alcohols, and a combination thereof. It is further preferred that the oil comprise both of ester oils and fatty alcohols, in particular the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols represented by the formula R4COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear fatty acid comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and the fatty alcohol having the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 2% by weight or more, and even more preferably 4% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises N-acylamino acid ester oil(s) in an amount of less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free from N-acylamino acid ester oil.
  • N-acylamino acid ester oil mention can be made of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one nonionic guar gum.
  • Two or more types of nonionic guar gums may be used in combination.
  • a single type of nonionic guar gum or a combination of different types of nonionic guar gums may be used.
  • nonionic guar gum here intends to mean a guar gum which is modified with at least one nonionic functional group.
  • the functional group can be hydroxy alkyl group, for example, Ci to Ce hydroxyalkyl group. Therefore, in one embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic guar gum is hydroxyalkyl guar gum, preferably hydroxyalkyl guar gum having Ci to Ce hydroxyalkyl groups, more preferably hydroxypropyl guar gum or hydroxyethyl guar gum, and in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum.
  • the guar gum is a complex carbohydrate polymer composed essentially of a straight chain of mannose units with single- membered galactose branches; chemically classified as a polygalactomannan.
  • the mannose units are linked in a 1-4-beta-glycosidic linkage and the galactose branching takes place by means of a 1 -6 linkage on alternate mannose units.
  • the ratio of galactose to mannose in the guar polymer is, therefore, one to two.
  • the nonionic guar gum in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum, has more than 0.6 of degree of substitution.
  • degree of substitution here means the average substitution of nonionic groups per anhydro sugar unit in the polygalactomannan gums.
  • each of the anhydro sugar units contains three available hydroxyl sites on average. A degree of substitution of three would mean that all of the available hydroxyl sites have been esterified with the nonionic groups.
  • the nonionic guar gum in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum has a degree of substitution of 0.7 or more, more preferably 0.8 or more, even more preferably 0.9 or more, preferentially 1.0 or more, and in particular 1.1 or more.
  • substitution degree of the nonionic guar gum of the present invention is not particularly limited, and thus it can be 3.0 or less.
  • the nonionic guar gum in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum, may advantageously have a weight average molecular weight of from 50,000 g/mol to 10,000,000 g/mol, preferably of from 200,000 g/mol to 5,000,000 g/mol and more preferably of from 1,000,000 g/mol to 5,000,000 g/mol.
  • the weight average molecular weight here can be measured using, for example, Gas Permeation Chromatography.
  • the amount of the nonionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the nonionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, and even more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the nonionic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can comprise water.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises water in an amount of 35% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more preferably 3% by weight or more, and even more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, more preferably 15% by weight or less, and even more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more of the adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology, selected from a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular water-soluble organic solvents; cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; pH adjuster; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; moisturizers; emollients; lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; suspending agents; sequestering agents; buffer; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and/or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; agents which can cause a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and mixtures thereof.
  • a physiologically acceptable medium in particular water-soluble organic solvents
  • composition according to the present invention may further comprise plant extracts, such as extracts from Nymphaeaceous plant, for example, Nymphaea alba root extract.
  • the adjuvants may be present in the second composition of the present invention in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may take various forms, such as, a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), multiple (e.g., W/O/W, polyol/O/W, and O/W/O) emulsions, and the like.
  • the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a solution, in particular a homogeneous solution.
  • the term “homogeneous” is intended to mean a composition consisting of a single phase.
  • the composition comprises surfactants, such as cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, which are different from components (a) to (d) of the present invention, in an amount of 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free from any surfactants which are different from components (a) to (d) of the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, especially to keratin materials.
  • keratin materials is intended to mean the skin and keratinous fibers.
  • skin used herein includes facial and/or bodily skin and the scalp.
  • keratinous fiber used herein include eyelashes, eyebrows, and hair.
  • the composition is intended for topical application to keratin materials such as scalp and hair.
  • the composition may be a hair care and/or a scalp care and/or skin care composition.
  • composition used according to the present invention is preferably intended to be used as a leave-on (or leave-in) type cosmetic composition.
  • leave-on means a composition that is not intended to be washed/rinsed out or removed immediately after application.
  • the leave-on composition is different from rinse-off type composition, which is intended to be rinsed off after being used on keratin materials.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional ingredients in accordance with any of the processes which are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or conditioning a keratin material, such as hair, scalp and/or skin, comprising applying to the keratin material the composition according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and/or conditioning the keratin material.
  • the application step can be performed by any conventional means such as an applicator, e.g., hands, a spray, and a brush.
  • the application step can be a topical application step.
  • the composition according to present invention is intended to be used as a leave-on type cosmetic composition. Therefore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention do not include a rinse out or wash out step of the applied composition from the keratin material after the application step. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic process of the present invention do not include a rinse out or wash out step of the applied composition within one hour, preferably within 2 hours, more preferably within 4 hours, and even more preferably within 8 hours after the application step.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in the field of cosmetics, in particular caring for and/or conditioning a keratin material.
  • Compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 were prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. Hydroxypropyl guar gum products of Jaguar ® HP 120 and Jaguar ® HSG were obtained from Solvay. Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol product of MEXORYL SCN® was obtained from NOVEAL. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active raw materials.
  • NG the composition was not thickened, the ingredient was not soluble or a phase separation was occurred at 4 °C, 25 °C, and/or 45 °C.
  • compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 were able to be thickened with the ingredients (a) to (e) of the present invention, thus they showed good stability.
  • the benchmark means the assessment result for the hair swatch itself, i.e., without the application of any composition.
  • Three hair swatches (1 g, 27 cm) were prepared for each experiment. Each of the hair swatches was washed with a clarifying shampoo once. The formulation of the clarifying shampoo is shown in Table 2 as below. After shampooing, the hair swatch was rinsed with water and then towel-dried. 0.2 g of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 8 was applied onto each hair swatch, and left for 5 minutes. The hair swatch was then rinsed off under running water for no longer than 5 seconds, and then dried naturally under ambient conditions at 24°C /40%RH for at least 30 minutes to obtain a treated hair swatch.
  • the treated hair swatch was placed on a plate, and its root side was fixed on the plate with a hair clip.
  • the smoothness of the treated hair swatch was evaluated by scanning the hair swatch from root to tip with a sensor (Handy Rub Tester (type TL701) from Trinity Lab) and measuring COF (Coefficient of Friction). The measurement was carried out 3 times for a single treated hair swatch. The same procedure was conducted with two more hair swatches to obtain 9 results in total for one composition, and the mean values were calculated for each composition. A lower score indicates that a better smoothness effect can be exerted.
  • Example 1 As can be seen from the results in Table 3, the composition according to Example 1 was able to impart a better texture, i.e. smoother and less grease texture, to hair.
  • the composition according to the present invention is very suitable as a cosmetic composition, in particular cosmetic topical composition for keratinous materials. Tn particular, the composition according to the present invention is very useful as a leave-on topical cosmetic composition since it exhibits smooth and less grease texture although it comprises an oil and a water-soluble alcohol.

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Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à une composition comprenant : (a) au moins un agent actif hydrophile, (b) au moins un alcool soluble dans l'eau en une quantité de 40 % en poids ou plus par rapport au poids total de la composition, (c) au moins une huile, (d) au moins une gomme de guar non ionique et (e) de l'eau en une quantité de 35 % en poids ou moins par rapport au poids total de la composition.
PCT/JP2022/041281 2021-12-17 2022-10-28 Composition comprenant de l'huile, un alcool soluble dans l'eau et une gomme de guar non ionique WO2023112544A1 (fr)

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FR2200241A FR3131692A1 (fr) 2022-01-13 2022-01-13 Composition comprenant une huile, un alcool soluble dans l’eau et une gomme de guar non ionique
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