WO2023090164A1 - Préparation cosmétique - Google Patents

Préparation cosmétique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023090164A1
WO2023090164A1 PCT/JP2022/041137 JP2022041137W WO2023090164A1 WO 2023090164 A1 WO2023090164 A1 WO 2023090164A1 JP 2022041137 W JP2022041137 W JP 2022041137W WO 2023090164 A1 WO2023090164 A1 WO 2023090164A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
mass
oil
fatty acid
triglyceride
xxx
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PCT/JP2022/041137
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
光希 中村
俊彦 中根
Original Assignee
株式会社 資生堂
日清オイリオグループ株式会社
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Application filed by 株式会社 資生堂, 日清オイリオグループ株式会社 filed Critical 株式会社 資生堂
Priority to CN202280070246.9A priority Critical patent/CN118234468A/zh
Publication of WO2023090164A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023090164A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetics.
  • Patent Document 1 the effect of keratin exfoliation by the powder lasts, and the feeling of use on the skin is good due to moderate viscosity, spreadability, and slipperiness, and the skin feels smooth and transparent after use.
  • various ingredients have been studied so far, but further improvement of the properties is required.
  • the inventors of the present invention conducted intensive studies to solve the above problems, and as a result, found that the above problems can be solved by blending porous powder and specific powdery oil in cosmetics. Completed.
  • a cosmetic containing a powdery oil wherein the number x is an integer selected from 8 to 12, and the carbon number y is each independently an integer selected from x+2 to x+8.
  • the powdery oil contains 90 to 99% by mass of XXX triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X with x carbon atoms at the 1st to 3rd positions, 10 to 1% by mass of one or more X2Y-type triglycerides in which one of the fatty acid residues X of the XXX-type triglyceride is replaced with a fatty acid residue Y having a carbon number of y, and the carbon number x is 10,
  • the cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein each carbon number y is independently an integer selected from x+4 to x+8.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention contains (A) a porous powder and (B) a powdered fat as essential components. Furthermore, the cosmetic according to the present invention may contain (B) an oily component other than the powdery oil and other components, depending on the purpose. Also, the cosmetic according to the present invention is preferably an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic. The cosmetic according to the present invention can simultaneously improve non-stickiness during use, non-powdery finish, fitting feeling, and makeup longevity. Each component contained in the cosmetic according to the present invention will be described in detail below.
  • the porous powder is preferably an inorganic porous powder, more preferably silica, from the viewpoint of compatibility with ingredients such as powdered oils and fats.
  • the shape of the porous powder is not particularly limited, it is preferably approximately spherical, and more preferably spherical.
  • the volume average particle size of the porous powder is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 ⁇ m or more and 30 ⁇ m or less, more preferably 2 ⁇ m or more and 15 ⁇ m or less, and still more preferably 3 ⁇ m or more and 10 ⁇ m or less.
  • the volume average particle size of silica powder can be measured according to a laser diffraction method.
  • the oil absorption of the porous powder is not particularly limited, but is preferably 10 ml/100 g or more and 500 ml/100 g or less, more preferably 30 ml/100 g or more and 300 ml/100 g or less, and still more preferably 50 ml/100 g or more and 200 ml/100 g. It is below.
  • the oil absorption of silica powder can be measured according to JIS Z 8830.
  • the BET specific surface area of the porous powder is not particularly limited, but is preferably 10 m 2 /g or more and 700 m 2 /g or less, more preferably 50 m 2 / g or more and 500 m 2 /g or less, and still more preferably 100 m 2 . /g or more and 400 m 2 /g or less.
  • the BET specific surface area of silica powder can be measured according to JIS K 5101-13-2.
  • silica powder examples include Sunsphere H-52, L-51S, H-121 (AGC Si Tech Co., Ltd.), Godball E-6C (Suzuki Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.), Satinia M5, spherical silica P- 1500 (Nikki Shokubai Kasei Co., Ltd.), TMS-10 (Tayca Co., Ltd.), etc. are preferably used.
  • the content of the porous powder is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more and 25% by mass or less, and still more preferably It is 1.0% by mass or more and 20% by mass or less, and more preferably 2.0% by mass or more and 15% by mass or less.
  • the content of the porous powder is within the above numerical range, many properties of the cosmetic are improved when used.
  • the powdery fats and oils in the present invention are powdery solid fats and oils at room temperature (20° C.).
  • the melting point of the powdered oil is preferably 25°C or higher and 50°C or lower, more preferably 25°C or higher and 45°C or lower, even more preferably 25°C or higher and 40°C or lower, and even more preferably 25°C or higher and 35°C or higher. °C or less.
  • the melting point of the powdered fat can be measured by a conventional method using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), and the peak top value on the DSC chart is taken as the melting point. If the melting point of the powdery oil is within the above numerical range, it will easily melt when used on the skin, and heat will be removed from the skin, making it easier to feel a cooling sensation.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the powdered fat usually has the form of plate crystals or spherical crystals, preferably the form of plate crystals.
  • the powdery fat has an average particle size (effective diameter) of, for example, 50 to 400 ⁇ m, preferably 50 to 300 ⁇ m, more preferably 50 to 250 ⁇ m, still more preferably 50 to 200 ⁇ m.
  • the average particle diameter (effective diameter) is a value measured by dry measurement based on a laser diffraction scattering method (ISO133201, ISO9276-1) with a particle size distribution measuring device (for example, Microtrac MT3300ExII manufactured by Nikkiso Co., Ltd.) ( d50).
  • the effective diameter means a spherical particle size when the measured diffraction pattern of the crystal to be measured matches the theoretical diffraction pattern obtained by assuming a spherical shape. In this way, in the case of the laser diffraction scattering method, the effective diameter is calculated by matching the theoretical diffraction pattern obtained by assuming a spherical shape with the actually measured diffraction pattern. Even spherical crystals can be measured on the same principle.
  • the powdery fat is composed of one or more XXX-type triglycerides having a fatty acid residue X with x carbon atoms at the 1- to 3-positions, and one of the fatty acid residues X of the XXX-type triglycerides as a fatty acid residue with y carbon atoms. and one or more X2Y-type triglycerides substituted for Y.
  • the fatty acid residue X may be a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid residue.
  • the carbon number x of the fatty acid residue X in the XXX triglyceride is an integer selected from 8 to 12, preferably 10.
  • Specific fatty acid residues X include, for example, saturated fatty acid residues such as caprylic acid (C8:0), capric acid (C10:0), and lauric acid (C12:0), preferably capric acid is.
  • the carbon number y of the fatty acid residue Y in the XXX-type triglyceride is independently x+2 to x+8, preferably x+4 to x+8.
  • Examples of specific fatty acid residues Y include saturated fatty acid residues such as myristic acid (C14:0), palmitic acid (C16:0), and stearic acid (C18:0), preferably myristic acid. be.
  • the content of XXX triglycerides is 80 to 99% by mass, preferably 90 to 99% by mass, and the content of X2Y triglycerides is 20 to 1% by mass. Yes, preferably 10 to 1% by mass.
  • the content of XXX triglyceride and X2Y triglyceride is within the above range, the presence of a small amount of X2Y triglyceride having a long chain length of one fatty acid causes XXX when the X2Y triglyceride is cooled and crystallized from a molten state.
  • a commercially available product can be used as the powdered oil.
  • the powdered oil it is preferable to use, for example, Enequick manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group, Inc., or the like.
  • Japanese Patent No. 5937771 can be referred to for the method for producing the powdered oil.
  • the powdered oil can be produced by the following steps.
  • step (a) Preparation step I of the oil and fat composition
  • the oil and fat composition prepared in step (a) contains XXX triglycerides (one or more) and X2Y triglycerides (one or more) as described above in the above mass %. be.
  • XXX triglyceride one or more having a fatty acid residue X having x carbon atoms at positions 1 to 3, and a fatty acid residue Y having y carbon atoms at positions 1 to 3.
  • YYY type triglycerides (one or more types) are separately obtained and mixed at a mass ratio of XXX type triglyceride/YYY type triglyceride from 90/10 to 99/1 to obtain a reaction substrate (here, the above
  • the carbon number x is an integer selected from 8 to 12
  • the carbon number y is an integer selected from x+2 to x+8), heating the reaction substrate, and transesterifying in the presence of a catalyst.
  • XXX triglycerides one or more
  • YYY triglycerides one or more
  • a YYY-type triglyceride is a triglyceride having a fatty acid residue Y with y carbon atoms at the 1- to 3-positions.
  • the carbon number y and fatty acid residue Y are as described above.
  • the XXX type triglyceride and the YYY type triglyceride can also be obtained by direct synthesis using a fatty acid or a fatty acid derivative and glycerin.
  • methods for directly synthesizing XXX type triglycerides include (i) a method of directly esterifying a fatty acid having X carbon atoms and glycerin (direct ester synthesis); A method of reacting a fatty acid alkyl (e.g., fatty acid methyl and fatty acid ethyl) in which the carboxyl group of a certain fatty acid X is bonded to an alkoxyl group with glycerin under basic or acidic catalyst conditions (transesterification synthesis using fatty acid alkyl); (iii) A method of reacting a fatty acid halide (e.g., fatty acid chloride and fatty acid bromide) in which the hydroxy
  • XXX-type triglycerides and YYY-type triglycerides can be produced by any of the above-described methods (i) to (iii), but from the viewpoint of ease of production, (i) direct ester synthesis or (ii) fatty acid alkyl Transesterification synthesis is preferred, and (i) direct ester synthesis is more preferred.
  • reaction temperature in (i) direct ester synthesis of XXX-type triglyceride or YYY-type triglyceride may be a temperature at which the water produced by the esterification reaction can be removed from the system. ⁇ 270°C is more preferred, and 180°C to 250°C is even more preferred. By carrying out the reaction at 180 to 250° C., XXX triglyceride or YYY triglyceride can be produced particularly efficiently.
  • a catalyst that accelerates the esterification reaction may be used.
  • the catalyst include acid catalysts and alkoxides of alkaline earth metals.
  • the amount of the catalyst used is preferably about 0.001 to 1% by mass with respect to the total mass of the reaction raw materials.
  • direct ester synthesis of XXX-type triglyceride or YYY-type triglyceride after the reaction, by performing known purification treatments such as washing with water, alkali deacidification and/or deacidification under reduced pressure, and adsorption treatment, catalysts and raw materials are removed. Reactants can be removed. Furthermore, the resulting reaction product can be further purified by subjecting it to decolorization/deodorization treatment.
  • XXX triglycerides and YYY triglycerides have a mass ratio of XXX triglyceride/YYY triglyceride of 90/10 to 99/1, preferably 93/7 to 99/1, more preferably 95/5 to 99/1. to mix.
  • the weight ratio of XXX type triglyceride/YYY type triglyceride is preferably 95/5 to 99/1.
  • the mass ratio of XXX type triglyceride/YYY type triglyceride is preferably 95/5 to 99/1.
  • the triglyceride that is a raw material for the reaction substrate may include various triglycerides in addition to the above XXX triglyceride and YYY triglyceride as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
  • Other triglycerides include, for example, X2Y-type triglyceride in which one of the fatty acid residues X of the XXX-type triglyceride is substituted with fatty acid residue Y, and two of the fatty acid residues X in the XXX-type triglyceride are substituted with fatty acid residue Y.
  • XY2-type triglycerides and the like can be mentioned.
  • the amount of the above other triglycerides is, for example, 0 to 15% by mass, preferably 0 to 7% by mass, more preferably 0 to 4% by mass, when the total mass of XXX type triglyceride and YYY type triglyceride is 100% by mass. is.
  • a naturally-derived triglyceride composition may be used instead of the XXX-type triglycerides and YYY-type triglycerides.
  • Naturally derived triglyceride compositions include palm kernel oil, palm kernel olein, palm kernel stearin, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil, and palm stearin.
  • Naturally-derived triglyceride compositions may be hydrogenated oils, partially hydrogenated oils, or extremely hydrogenated oils modified by hydrogenation or the like.
  • the amount of the naturally-occurring triglyceride composition depends on the required amount of XXX-type triglycerides or YYY-type triglycerides contained in these naturally-occurring triglyceride compositions, e.g.
  • the amount of triglycerides having Y residues at positions 1 to 3 contained in the palm kernel stearin extremely hydrogenated oil is the amount required as the above-mentioned YYY type triglycerides, namely It is suitable that the weight ratio of XXX type triglyceride/YYY type triglyceride is 90/10 to 99/1, preferably 93/7 to 99/1, more preferably 95/5 to 98/2. .
  • the raw materials constituting the reaction substrate may optionally contain other components such as partial glycerides, antioxidants, emulsifiers, and solvents such as water.
  • the amount of these other components can be any amount as long as it does not impair the effect of the present invention. 0 to 2% by mass, more preferably 0 to 1% by mass.
  • Mixing may be performed by any known mixing method as long as a homogeneous reaction substrate can be obtained.
  • the said mixing may be mixed under a heating as needed. Heating is preferably carried out at the same temperature as the heating temperature in step (b) described later, for example, 50 to 120°C, preferably 60 to 100°C, more preferably 70 to 90°C, and still more preferably 80°C.
  • Heating is preferably carried out at the same temperature as the heating temperature in step (b) described later, for example, 50 to 120°C, preferably 60 to 100°C, more preferably 70 to 90°C, and still more preferably 80°C.
  • water is present as little as possible before the enzyme is added.
  • the amount of water before adding the enzyme is, for example, 10% by mass or less, preferably 0.001 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 3% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 5% by mass, relative to the mass of the entire raw material. It is suitable that it is 2% by mass.
  • This mixing may last for example
  • the reaction substrate (mixture containing XXX-type triglyceride and YYY-type triglyceride) is heated and transesterification is performed in the presence of a catalyst to effect transesterification (an oil-and-fat composition containing XXX-type triglyceride and X2Y-type triglyceride).
  • the transesterification reaction is not particularly limited, and a commonly used transesterification reaction can be used.
  • heating is performed at, for example, 50 to 120°C, preferably 60 to 100°C, more preferably 70 to 90°C, still more preferably 80°C.
  • Enzymes, alkali metal alkoxides, alkaline earth metal alkoxides and the like can be used as catalysts.
  • the enzyme immobilized enzymes and powdered enzymes can be used, but powdered enzymes are preferred in terms of enzymatic activity and ease of handling.
  • the powdered enzyme is obtained by drying and pulverizing an enzyme-containing aqueous liquid by a method such as spray drying, freeze drying, drying after solvent precipitation, and is not particularly limited.
  • Alcaligenes sp. derived lipase (Meito Sangyo Co., Ltd., trade name Lipase QLM).
  • an enzyme immobilized on a carrier such as silica, celite, diatomaceous earth, perlite, polyvinyl alcohol, anion exchange resin, phenol adsorption resin, hydrophobic carrier, cation exchange resin, chelate resin, etc. is used. be able to.
  • alkali metal alkoxides and alkaline earth metal alkoxides that can be used as catalysts
  • lithium, sodium, potassium and the like can be preferably used as the alkali metal.
  • Magnesium and calcium can preferably be used as alkaline earth metals.
  • Alkoxides include methoxide, ethoxide, propoxide, n-butoxide, t-butoxide and the like, preferably methoxide and ethoxide.
  • Preferred alkali metal alkoxides and alkaline earth metal alkoxides include sodium methoxide, sodium ethoxide, magnesium methoxide, magnesium ethoxide and the like, with sodium methoxide being more preferred.
  • the amount of the catalyst may be an amount that allows the transesterification reaction to proceed sufficiently. , more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.2 to 1% by mass. Any co-catalyst may be used in addition to the above catalysts.
  • the transesterification reaction is carried out, for example, under normal pressure or reduced pressure at the above-mentioned heating temperature, for example, for 0.5 to 50 hours, preferably 1 to 40 hours, more preferably 5 to 30 hours, more preferably 10 to 20 hours, Optional with agitation.
  • the predetermined amount of the catalyst may be added at once, but the predetermined amount of the catalyst may be added 2 to 30 times, preferably 3 to 20 times, more preferably 5 to 15 times. You can put it in separately.
  • the catalyst may be charged at intervals of 1 to 2 hours after the first catalyst addition, in addition to immediately after step (a).
  • Oil and fat composition preparation step II examples of the method for producing the oil and fat composition prepared in step (a) of the present invention include a method for simultaneously and directly synthesizing XXX-type triglyceride and X2Y-type triglyceride as shown below. That is, in this preparation step II, in order to obtain XXX triglyceride and X2Y triglyceride, XXX triglyceride and YYY triglyceride are not synthesized separately and transesterified, but both triglycerides are produced. (fatty acid or fatty acid derivative and glycerin) are put into, for example, a single reaction vessel and synthesized simultaneously and directly.
  • fatty acid alkyl e.g., fatty acid methyl and fatty acid ethyl
  • a fatty acid halide e.g., fatty acid chloride and fatty acid bromide
  • a fatty acid halide e.g., fatty acid chloride and fatty acid bromide
  • the oil and fat composition of the present invention can be produced by any of the methods described above, but from the viewpoint of ease of production, (iv) direct ester synthesis or (v) transesterification synthesis using a fatty acid alkyl is preferred, and (iv) Direct ester synthesis is more preferred.
  • the production method is not limited as long as the XXX triglyceride and the X2Y triglyceride in the total triglyceride are in the desired mass%, but the desired In order to reliably produce triglycerides in the system, it is preferable to carry out a two-step reaction. That is, in the first step, after reacting glycerin with a fatty acid X having a carbon number x containing a fatty acid Y having a carbon number y, in the second step, a fatty acid X having a carbon chain x is added and reacted to form an XXX triglyceride.
  • a method of preparing a fat composition containing a predetermined amount of X2Y triglyceride is preferred.
  • the total molar amount of fatty acid Y and fatty acid X adjusted to the range where the X2Y type triglyceride in all glycerides becomes the desired mass% is 1 mol of glycerin , preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 2.8 mol, more preferably in an amount of 0.8 to 2.57 mol, most preferably in an amount of 1.1 to 2.2 mol.
  • the reaction temperature in the direct ester synthesis of the oil and fat composition of the present invention may be any temperature at which water generated by the esterification reaction can be removed from the system, preferably 120°C to 300°C, more preferably 150°C to 270°C. , 180° C. to 250° C. are more preferred.
  • the X2Y triglyceride can be produced efficiently.
  • a catalyst that accelerates the esterification reaction may be used.
  • the catalyst include acid catalysts and alkoxides of alkaline earth metals.
  • the amount of the catalyst used is preferably about 0.001 to 1% by mass with respect to the total mass of the reaction raw materials.
  • Oil and fat composition preparation step III After preparing a fat composition further containing XXX triglycerides outside the range of 80 to 99% by mass and/or X2Y triglycerides outside the range of 20 to 1% by mass, the fat composition is further treated with XXX triglycerides or X2Y A fat composition containing 80 to 99% by mass of XXX type triglyceride and 20 to 1% by mass of X2Y type triglyceride may be obtained by further adding type triglyceride (preparation of fat composition by dilution).
  • a desired amount of XXX type triglyceride is added to obtain 80 to 99% by mass of XXX type triglyceride.
  • a fat composition comprising triglycerides and 20-1% by weight of X2Y type triglycerides may be obtained.
  • the oil-fat composition containing XXX triglycerides in the range of 80 to 99% by mass and/or X2Y triglycerides in the range of 20 to 1% by mass by the preparation step I or II it is also included to adjust the mass % of XXX triglyceride and X2Y triglyceride to within a more preferable range by further adding XXX triglyceride or X2Y triglyceride (more suitable fat by dilution composition preparation).
  • Step (b) Step of obtaining the melted fat composition Before the step (d), if the fat composition obtained in the step (a) is in a melted state at the time of preparation, it is not heated. However, if it is not in a molten state at the time it is obtained, it is optionally heated to melt the triglycerides contained in the oil and fat composition to obtain a molten oil and fat composition.
  • the heating of the oil and fat composition is performed at a temperature above the melting point of the triglycerides contained in the oil and fat composition, particularly at a temperature at which XXX triglycerides and X2Y triglycerides can be melted, for example, 70 to 200 ° C., preferably 75 to A suitable temperature is 150°C, more preferably 80 to 100°C. Further, it is suitable to continue heating, for example, for 0.5 to 3 hours, preferably 0.5 to 2 hours, more preferably 0.5 to 1 hour.
  • Step of cooling the melted fat composition to obtain a powdered fat composition The melted fat composition obtained in the above step (a) or (b) is further cooled to form a powdered oil. do.
  • cooling the melted fat composition means keeping the melted fat composition at a temperature lower than the melting point of the fat composition.
  • a temperature lower than the melting point of the oil and fat composition means, for example, a temperature lower than the melting point by 1 to 30°C, preferably a temperature lower by 1 to 20°C than the melting point, more preferably a temperature lower by 1 to 15°C than the melting point. be.
  • Cooling of the oil and fat composition in a molten state for example, when x is 8 to 10, the final temperature is preferably 10 to 30 ° C., more preferably 15 to 25 ° C., still more preferably 18 to 22 ° C. It is done by cooling as The final temperature in cooling is preferably 30 to 40°C, more preferably 32 to 38°C, still more preferably 33 to 37°C when x is 11 or 12, for example.
  • the final temperature for example, it is suitable to leave still for preferably 2 hours or more, more preferably 4 hours or more, still more preferably 6 hours to 2 days.
  • step (c) step of promoting powder formation Further, between the above steps (a) or (b) and (d), (c) as an optional step for promoting powder formation, the molten state used in step (d) (c1), tempering (c2) and/or (c3) pre-cooling method may be applied to the oil and fat composition. Any of these optional steps (c1) to (c3) may be performed alone, or a plurality of steps may be combined.
  • step (a) or (b) and step (d) means during step (a) or (b), after step (a) or (b) and in step (d) It is meant to include before and during step (d).
  • the seeding method (c1) and the tempering method (c2) are used in the production of powdered fats and oils, in order to ensure that the fat composition in the molten state is powdered, before cooling to the final temperature.
  • the seeding method is a method for promoting powderization by adding a small amount of a component that serves as the nucleus (seed) of the powder when cooling the oil-and-fat composition in a molten state.
  • XXX-type triglycerides having the same number of carbon atoms as XXX-type triglycerides in the oil-and-fat composition are added to the melted oil-and-fat composition obtained in step (b), preferably 80% by mass or more, more
  • an oil powder containing 90% by mass or more is prepared as a core (seed) component.
  • the temperature of the oil composition reaches, for example, the final cooling temperature ⁇ 0 to +10 ° C., preferably +5 to +10 ° C.
  • a method of promoting pulverization of the oil and fat composition by adding 0.1 to 1 part by mass, preferably 0.2 to 0.8 part by mass, with respect to 100 parts by mass of the oil and fat composition in the molten state. is.
  • the tempering method refers to cooling the oil and fat composition in a molten state, once before standing at the final cooling temperature, to a temperature lower than the cooling temperature in step (d), for example, 5 to 20 ° C. lower temperature, preferably 7 Cooling to a temperature lower by about 15°C, more preferably lower by about 10°C, preferably for about 10 to 120 minutes, more preferably about 30 to 90 minutes, is a method of promoting pulverization of the oil and fat composition.
  • the pre-cooling method is that the melted oil and fat composition obtained in the step (a) or (b) is cooled in the step (d), and the This is a method of once pre-cooling at a temperature lower than the temperature of the molten state and higher than the cooling temperature in step (d).
  • the temperature higher than the cooling temperature in step (d) is, for example, a temperature higher than the cooling temperature in step (d) by 2 to 40°C, preferably 3 to 30°C, more preferably 4 to 30°C, More preferably, the temperature may be about 5 to 10°C higher.
  • the pre-cooling temperature is set lower, the main cooling time at the cooling temperature in step (d) can be shortened. That is, unlike the seeding method and the tempering method, the pre-cooling method is a method that can accelerate the pulverization of the oil-fat composition simply by lowering the cooling temperature in stages, and is highly advantageous for industrial production.
  • Step of pulverizing solid matter to obtain powdered oil may be carried out by the step (e) of obtaining a powdery fat.
  • the oil and fat composition containing the XXX triglyceride and the X2Y triglyceride is melted to obtain a molten oil and fat composition, and then cooled to have a volume larger than that of the molten oil and fat composition. Forms a solid with increased voids.
  • the oil-and-fat composition that has become a solid matter having voids can be pulverized by applying a light impact, and the solid matter is easily disintegrated into powder.
  • the means for applying a light impact is not particularly specified, but it is simple and preferable to apply a light vibration (shock) by shaking, sieving, or the like to pulverize (loosen) the material.
  • the content of the powdery oil is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more and 25% by mass or less, and still more preferably It is 1.0 mass % or more and 20 mass % or less. If the content of the powdered oil is within the above numerical range, many properties (particularly non-stickiness, fitting feeling, and longevity of makeup) during use of the cosmetic are improved.
  • the blending ratio of the porous powder and the powdery oil is preferably 10:1 to 1:10, more preferably 7:1 to 1:7, and still more preferably 5:1 to 1:1 by mass. 5. If the blending ratio of the porous powder and the powdered oil is within the above numerical range, (A) the porous powder and the powdered oil are well blended, and many properties of the cosmetic are improved during use.
  • oily components other than the above powdery oils include ester oils, silicone oils, liquid oils, solid oils, waxes, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, and polar liquid ultraviolet absorbers. These oily components may be used singly or in combination of two or more.
  • Ester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, Lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, malic acid diisostearyl, glyceryl di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethyl
  • silicone oils include linear polysiloxanes (eg, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, etc.), cyclic polysiloxanes (eg, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexane siloxane, etc.), silicone resins that form a three-dimensional network structure, silicone rubber, various modified polysiloxanes (amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, etc.), acrylic silicone and the like.
  • linear polysiloxanes eg, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, etc.
  • liquid oils examples include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, and linseed oil. , safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, sinagiri oil, Japanese paulownia oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, and the like.
  • solid fats and oils examples include cacao butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, hydrogenated beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japanese wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, beef leg fat, Japanese wax, hydrogenated castor oil and the like.
  • Waxes include, for example, beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, wart wax, whale wax, montan wax, bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether, and the like.
  • hydrocarbon oils examples include liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, ozokerite, squalane, squalene, pristane, paraffin, isoparaffin, ceresin, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated polyisobutene, olefin oligomers, volatile hydrocarbon oils (e.g. , isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, etc.).
  • higher fatty acids examples include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, toric acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid ( DHA) and the like.
  • the oil-soluble, polar, liquid ultraviolet absorber is not particularly limited, but those commonly blended in sunscreen cosmetics can be used.
  • Polar liquid ultraviolet absorbers include, for example, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate, polysilicone-15, t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoate, and bisethylhexyl.
  • Organic ultraviolet rays such as oxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, oxybenzone-3, methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidenedicanefursulfonic acid, and drometrisoltrisiloxane Absorbents may be mentioned.
  • the content of oily components other than powdery fats and oils is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 35% by mass or less, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more and 30% by mass or less, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. , more preferably 1% by mass or more and 25% by mass or less.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention can contain other ingredients that can be blended in the cosmetic as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
  • Such other ingredients include aqueous solvents, water-soluble polymers, thickeners, UV absorbers, humectants, dispersants, neutralizers, chelating agents, preservatives, antioxidants, stabilizers, interface activators, coloring agents, fragrances, and the like. These components can be appropriately blended according to the dosage form of the cosmetic.
  • the aqueous solvent is not particularly limited, and conventionally known aqueous solvents can be used.
  • Aqueous solvents can include, for example, water, alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
  • water water used in cosmetics can be used, for example, purified water, ion-exchanged water, tap water, and the like can be used.
  • alcohol for example, lower alcohols such as ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isobutyl alcohol and t-butyl alcohol can be used.
  • semi-synthetic water-soluble polymers include starch-based polymers (e.g., carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch, etc.); cellulose-based polymers (methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, , hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powder, etc.); alginate-based polymers (eg, sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, etc.);
  • Examples of synthetic water-soluble polymers include vinyl polymers (eg, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, etc.); polyoxyethylene polymers (eg, polyethylene glycol 20,000, 40 acrylic polymers (eg, sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, polyacrylamide, etc.); polyethyleneimine; cationic polymers, and the like.
  • vinyl polymers eg, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, etc.
  • polyoxyethylene polymers eg, polyethylene glycol 20,000, 40 acrylic polymers (eg, sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, polyacrylamide, etc.); polyethyleneimine; cationic polymers, and the like.
  • Thickeners include, for example, agar, gum arabic, carrageenan, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carob gum, quince seed (quince), casein, dextrin, gelatin, sodium pectate, sodium araginate, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, CMC, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose, PVA, PVM, PVP, sodium polyacrylate, carboxyvinyl polymer, locust bean gum, guar gum, tamarind gum, dialkyldimethylammonium cellulose sulfate, xanthan gum, magnesium aluminum silicate, bentonite, hectorite, A1 Mg silicate (Veegum). ), laponite, silicic anhydride and the like.
  • agar gum arabic, carrageenan, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, carob gum, quince seed (quince), casein, dextrin, gelatin
  • the ultraviolet absorber examples include benzoic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers (e.g., para-aminobenzoic acid (hereinafter abbreviated as PABA), PABA monoglycerin ester, N,N-dipropoxy PABA ethyl ester, N,N-diethoxy PABA ethyl ester, , N,N-dimethyl PABA ethyl ester, N,N-dimethyl PABA butyl ester, N,N-dimethyl PABA ethyl ester, etc.); Salicylic acid-based UV absorbers (e.g., amyl salicylate, menthyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanol phenyl salicylate, etc.); cinnamic acid-based UV absorbers (e.g., octyl cinnam
  • the moisturizing agent is not particularly limited, and conventionally known moisturizing agents for cosmetics can be used.
  • moisturizing agents include polyhydric alcohols and glycol ethers, more specifically glycerin, propanediol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, and isoprene glycol. , polyethylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, diglycerin (EO) PO adducts, and the like.
  • EO diglycerin
  • the cosmetics according to the present invention can be produced according to conventional methods. For example, at least a portion of the oily component is added to the aqueous component, and the mixture is emulsified using a homomixer or the like. Subsequently, the rest of the oily component and silica powder are added to this and stirred and mixed to prepare.
  • Cosmetics according to the present invention can be suitably used as cosmetics such as lotions, serums, milky lotions, creams, foundations, eye shadows, and cheeks.
  • the present invention will be specifically described based on the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amount is expressed in mass%.
  • Examples 1 to 4 Oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples were prepared according to the formulations shown in Tables 1 to 3. In Tables 1 to 3, the blending ratio of each component is mass%. Moreover, the triglyde composition of the powdered fats and oils used in the cosmetics was analyzed by the following method.
  • the cosmetics according to the present invention are all excellent in terms of non-stickiness during use, non-powdery finish, good fit, and makeup longevity. Considering the results of the comparative examples together, it can be seen that in the cosmetics according to the present invention, excellent effects are achieved by simultaneously blending the porous powder and the specific powdery oil.

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Abstract

Le problème décrit par la présente invention est de fournir une préparation cosmétique ayant toutes de nombreuses propriétés améliorées pendant l'application. La solution est une préparation cosmétique comprenant (A) une poudre poreuse et (B) une graisse en poudre qui, lorsque la teneur totale en triglycérides est prise en tant que 100 % en masse, comprend 80 à 99 % en masse d'au moins un triglycéride de type XXX ayant, aux positions 1 à 3, des résidus d'acide gras X ayant chacun x atomes de carbone et 1 à 20 % en masse d'au moins un triglycéride de type X2Y formé en remplaçant l'un des résidus d'acide gras X contenus dans le triglycéride de type XXX avec un résidu d'acide gras Y ayant y atomes de carbone, le nombre x d'atomes de carbone étant un nombre entier de 8 à 12 et le nombre y d'atomes de carbone étant un nombre entier de x+2 à x+8 pour chaque résidu Y.
PCT/JP2022/041137 2021-11-18 2022-11-04 Préparation cosmétique WO2023090164A1 (fr)

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009274991A (ja) * 2008-05-15 2009-11-26 Kose Corp 固形粉末化粧料
WO2017126665A1 (fr) * 2016-01-21 2017-07-27 日清オイリオグループ株式会社 Agent de transformation en poudre pour composant liquide
WO2018056415A1 (fr) * 2016-09-23 2018-03-29 日清オイリオグループ株式会社 Composition adhésive contenant de la graisse ou de l'huile en poudre et son procédé de fabrication

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009274991A (ja) * 2008-05-15 2009-11-26 Kose Corp 固形粉末化粧料
WO2017126665A1 (fr) * 2016-01-21 2017-07-27 日清オイリオグループ株式会社 Agent de transformation en poudre pour composant liquide
WO2018056415A1 (fr) * 2016-09-23 2018-03-29 日清オイリオグループ株式会社 Composition adhésive contenant de la graisse ou de l'huile en poudre et son procédé de fabrication

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