WO2023063116A1 - Produit cosmétique émulsifié type eau dans l'huile - Google Patents
Produit cosmétique émulsifié type eau dans l'huile Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2023063116A1 WO2023063116A1 PCT/JP2022/036741 JP2022036741W WO2023063116A1 WO 2023063116 A1 WO2023063116 A1 WO 2023063116A1 JP 2022036741 W JP2022036741 W JP 2022036741W WO 2023063116 A1 WO2023063116 A1 WO 2023063116A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- water
- emulsified cosmetic
- silicone
- pigment
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 57
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 93
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 42
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 claims description 20
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 claims description 20
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 abstract description 7
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- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 57
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 49
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 19
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- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 15
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
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- -1 polyoxyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 12
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- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 11
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 11
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- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 9
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- 239000011777 magnesium Substances 0.000 description 9
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- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 8
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 7
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- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 239000003925 fat Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000019197 fats Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl 4-methoxycinnamic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000002776 aggregation Effects 0.000 description 3
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- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
- OGQYPPBGSLZBEG-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethyl(dioctadecyl)azanium Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC OGQYPPBGSLZBEG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropylene glycol Chemical compound OCCCOCCCO SZXQTJUDPRGNJN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229940073545 distearyldimonium Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 229940079593 drug Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 239000003814 drug Substances 0.000 description 3
- KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L hectorite Chemical compound [Li+].[OH-].[OH-].[Na+].[Mg+2].O1[Si]2([O-])O[Si]1([O-])O[Si]([O-])(O1)O[Si]1([O-])O2 KWLMIXQRALPRBC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 3
- 229910000271 hectorite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 3
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000004200 microcrystalline wax Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019808 microcrystalline wax Nutrition 0.000 description 3
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- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 description 3
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 3
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- FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;2-methyl-2-(prop-2-enoylamino)propane-1-sulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C FWFUWXVFYKCSQA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 description 3
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- KGKQNDQDVZQTAG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 8-methylnonyl 2,2-dimethylpropanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)(C)C KGKQNDQDVZQTAG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- GJQLBGWSDGMZKM-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylhexyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(CC)CCCCC GJQLBGWSDGMZKM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecyl 2-ethylhexanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(CC)CCCC XJNUECKWDBNFJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940100463 hexyl laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- CZWLNMOIEMTDJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexyl(trimethoxy)silane Chemical compound CCCCCC[Si](OC)(OC)OC CZWLNMOIEMTDJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-M hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-] XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- 235000020778 linoleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N linoleic acid Natural products CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229940057995 liquid paraffin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920002521 macromolecule Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000395 magnesium oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium oxide Inorganic materials [Mg]=O CPLXHLVBOLITMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N magnesium;oxygen(2-) Chemical compound [O-2].[Mg+2] AXZKOIWUVFPNLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- BFXIKLCIZHOAAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyltrimethoxysilane Chemical compound CO[Si](C)(OC)OC BFXIKLCIZHOAAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- UVPGECJLXBGLDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-7-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC UVPGECJLXBGLDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N octyltriethoxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](OCC)(OCC)OCC MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000014593 oils and fats Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008385 outer phase Substances 0.000 description 1
- BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxobismuth;hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.[Bi]=O BWOROQSFKKODDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003346 palm kernel oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019865 palm kernel oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000312 peanut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940016593 peg-20 glyceryl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCO BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000717 retained effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008165 rice bran oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000002374 sebum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011803 sesame oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008159 sesame oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012176 shellac wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 201000010153 skin papilloma Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940035044 sorbitan monolaurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940035049 sorbitan monooleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001593 sorbitan monooleate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011069 sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000001587 sorbitan monostearate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011076 sorbitan monostearate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940035048 sorbitan monostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000012424 soybean oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003549 soybean oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetradecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCC DZKXJUASMGQEMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- QORWJWZARLRLPR-UHFFFAOYSA-H tricalcium bis(phosphate) Chemical compound [Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O QORWJWZARLRLPR-UHFFFAOYSA-H 0.000 description 1
- 229940098385 triisostearin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- NMEPHPOFYLLFTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethoxy(octyl)silane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](OC)(OC)OC NMEPHPOFYLLFTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960002703 undecylenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000341 volatile oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. More specifically, it relates to a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic that is excellent in spreadability during application, uniform finish of makeup, and excellent emulsification stability.
- a water-in-oil emulsified composition having an oil phase as an outer phase and an aqueous phase as an inner phase can efficiently spread oil-soluble active ingredients such as emollient oils, drugs, ultraviolet absorbers, etc. on the skin. It has a suitable dosage form and is widely used in make-up cosmetics such as foundation.
- Makeup cosmetics such as foundations use white pigments such as zinc oxide and titanium oxide, and colored pigments such as iron oxide, which have the effect of correcting skin unevenness such as spots and freckles and skin unevenness such as pores. ing. In order to obtain a high corrective effect, etc., it is required that these pigments are highly blended in cosmetics.
- the external oil phase contains solid oil such as wax, semi-solid oil, or macromolecules such as coating agents, these aggregates and the powder cause agglomeration, resulting in slow spreadability during application. As a result, the problem of non-uniform finish of makeup tends to occur.
- Patent Document 2 discloses that an outer oil phase is thickened with (A) wax and (B) disteardimonium hectorite or It is suggested to solidify.
- A wax and (B) disteardimonium hectorite or It is suggested to solidify.
- non-hydrophobized powders tend to cause creaking over time after being applied to the skin.
- the present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned circumstances, and by stably dispersing a hydrophobized pigment in the internal water phase, the spreadability during application and the uniformity of the makeup finish are excellent, and the emulsion is emulsified. To provide a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic excellent in stability.
- the inventors of the present invention conducted intensive research to solve the above problems, and as a result, prepared an aqueous dispersion in which a hydrophobized pigment was dispersed in an aqueous component using a nonionic surfactant having a predetermined HLB.
- a hydrophobized pigment was dispersed in an aqueous component using a nonionic surfactant having a predetermined HLB.
- the hydrophobized pigment is stably dispersed inside the emulsified particles, i.e., in the internal water phase.
- the inventors found that the spreadability during application, the uniformity of the makeup finish, and the emulsification stability were remarkably improved, leading to the completion of the present invention.
- the present invention (A) a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 9 or more; (B) a hydrophobized pigment, (C) a silicone emulsifier, and (D) a silicone oil,
- a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic containing (C) a 50% by mass solution of cyclopentasiloxane as a silicone emulsifier has a viscosity of 300 mPa s or more;
- Silicone oil accounts for more than 50% by weight of the total liquid oil,
- the gist of the present invention is a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic in which (B) a hydrophobized pigment is dispersed in an internal water phase.
- the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention has the above-described structure, so that it does not give a powdery feel when applied and has excellent spreadability.
- the finished product is uniform, and the emulsified particles are hard to break and excellent emulsification stability can be realized.
- the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains (A) a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 9 or more, (B) a hydrophobized pigment, (C) a silicone emulsifier, and (D) a silicone oil. contains.
- polyoxyethylene may be abbreviated as "POE”, polyethylene glycol as “PEG”, and polypropylene glycol as "PPG”.
- the (A) nonionic surfactant (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "(A) component") blended in the present invention adsorbs to the particle surface of the (B) hydrophobized pigment to make it hydrophilic, ( B) It has the effect of uniformly dispersing the hydrophobized pigment in the inner water phase.
- the HLB of the nonionic surfactant is 7 or more, more preferably 8 or more, and still more preferably 9 or more. However, if the HLB is 7 or more, a sufficient effect can be obtained. It is preferable to blend (A) a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 9 or more.
- nonionic surfactants include fatty acid polyoxyalkylene glyceryl, polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyalkylene alkyl ether, fatty acid polyoxyalkylene sorbitan, polyoxyalkylene phytosterol, and polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone. etc. can be mentioned.
- fatty acid polyoxyalkylene glyceryl such as PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate
- Polyoxyalkylene hydrogenated castor oils such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil
- Polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers such as PEG-20 oleyl ether, PEG-10 behenyl ether, PEG-20 behenyl ether, PEG-30 behenyl ether
- fatty acid polyoxyalkylene sorbitan such as PEG-20 sorbitan monolaurate, PEG-20 sorbitan monostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate
- Polyoxyalkylene phytosterols such as PEG-30 phytosterols
- Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones such as PEG-12 dimethicone; etc.
- PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil and PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil are preferred.
- One or two or more nonionic surfactants can be used, and the total content thereof is 0.01% by mass or more with respect to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, and preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 8% by mass or less, and even more preferably 5% by mass or less.
- the (B) hydrophobized pigment blended in the present invention (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "(B) component”) can be those commonly blended in cosmetics as a coloring material, and is particularly limited not a thing (B)
- the hydrophobized pigment is a powder such as a hydrophobized pigment, and specifically includes titanium oxide, iron oxide, magnesium oxide, zinc oxide, calcium oxide, calcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, alumina, hydroxide.
- a base such as aluminum, barium sulfate, a pearlescent pigment (titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride, etc.), talc, etc., or a composite material of these bases.
- Hydrophobic treatment includes, for example, silicone treatment (silicone oils such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane; methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, etc.
- silicone treatment silicone oils such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane
- methyltrimethoxysilane ethyltrimethoxysilane
- hexyltrimethoxysilane octyltrimethoxysilane, etc.
- fluoroalkylsilanes such as trifluoromethylethyltrimethoxysilane, heptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane, etc.
- fatty acid treatment palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, treatment with oleic acid, rosin acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, etc.
- fatty acid soap treatment treatment with aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, etc.
- fatty acid ester treatment (dextrin fatty acid ester, cholesterol fatty acid ester, treatment with sugar fatty acid ester, starch fatty acid ester, etc.).
- the average particle size of the hydrophobized pigment is preferably 200 to 10000 nm, more preferably 200 to 1000 nm.
- the "average particle size” used herein is the number average size (average of 50 arbitrary particles) obtained by image analysis of transmission electron micrographs.
- Hydrophobized pigments may be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the total content thereof is preferably 0.01% by mass or more relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. , more preferably 1% by mass or more, and more preferably 5% by mass or more. Moreover, it is preferably 25% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or less, and even more preferably 15% by mass or less.
- the (C) silicone-based emulsifier (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "(C) component”) blended in the present invention has an emulsifying action that allows fine droplets of the aqueous phase to enter the oil phase, which is the continuous phase. Disperse stably. Therefore, the HLB of (C) the silicone emulsifier is preferably 8 or less, more preferably 6 or less, and even more preferably 5 or less.
- the silicone-based emulsifier has a viscosity at 25° C. of a solution obtained by dissolving the emulsifier in cyclopentasiloxane to a concentration of 50% by mass (hereinafter sometimes referred to as “viscosity of the emulsifier”) of 300 mPa ⁇ . s or more, preferably 320 mPa ⁇ s or more, and still more preferably 340 mPa ⁇ s or more.
- the upper limit of the viscosity of the emulsifier is not particularly limited, but is preferably 60,000 mPa s or less, more preferably 30,000 mPa s or less, further preferably 10,000 mPa s or less, and 1,000 mPa s or less. is more preferable, and 500 mPa ⁇ s or less is even more preferable.
- a silicone-based emulsifier having an emulsifier viscosity of 300 mPa ⁇ s or more as component (C) the aqueous phase can be more stably dispersed in the oil phase, and as a result, the hydrophobized pigment (B) can be obtained. It can be stably retained in the inner water phase.
- the "viscosity of the emulsifier" is measured by rotor No. using a Brookfield viscometer. 1. Values measured under the conditions of 12 rpm for 1 minute.
- silicone-based emulsifier examples include various polyether-modified silicones. Among them, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone and PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone are particularly preferred.
- a silicone-based emulsifier can also be a commercially available product, and specific examples thereof include cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (eg, ABIL EM90; manufactured by Evonik Japan Co., Ltd.), PEG/PPG-19. /19 dimethicone (eg, BY11-030; manufactured by Dow Toray Industries, Inc.) and the like.
- Silicone emulsifiers may be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the total content thereof is preferably 0.1% by mass or more relative to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, 1% by mass or more is more preferable, 2% by mass or more is more preferable, 10% by mass or less is preferable, 8% by mass or less is more preferable, and 6% by mass or less is even more preferable.
- the (D) silicone oil blended in the present invention (hereinafter sometimes referred to as "(D) component") has the property of being difficult to mix with sebum, so it can impart a refreshing feeling.
- (D) Silicone oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
- the silicone oil (D) preferably has a viscosity (Brookfield viscometer) of 1 mPa ⁇ s or more and 500 mPa ⁇ s or less at 25° C., more preferably 1 mPa ⁇ s or more and 100 mPa ⁇ s or less.
- the "viscosity" of (D) silicone oil is measured by rotor No. using a Brookfield viscometer. 1. Values measured under the conditions of 12 rpm for 1 minute.
- silicone oils include linear polysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane; octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and alkyl-modified polysiloxanes such as caprylyl methicone. Among them, dimethicone is preferred.
- silicone oils can be used, and the total content thereof is preferably 20% by mass or more, preferably 30% by mass, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. % or more, more preferably 40 mass % or more, preferably 90 mass % or less, more preferably 80 mass % or less, and even more preferably 70 mass % or less.
- (D) silicone oil accounts for more than 50% by mass, more preferably 55% by mass or more, and still more preferably 60% by mass or more of the total liquid oil content.
- total liquid oil refers to (D) a silicone oil as well as an oil that is liquid at 25°C and is commonly used in cosmetics. If this ratio ((D) silicone oil/total liquid oil content) is more than 50% by mass, excellent emulsification system stability can be achieved.
- Oily components include not only oils such as hydrocarbon oils, fats, waxes, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, and ester oils, but also the oil phase of general cosmetics such as oil-soluble polymers, ultraviolet absorbers, fragrances, and drugs. Components to be blended as components can be mentioned.
- hydrocarbon oils examples include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalene, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, vaseline, and microcrystalline wax.
- Fats and oils include avocado oil, camellia oil, evening primrose oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, and linseed oil.
- oils and fats such as glycerin; cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, mutton tallow, hydrogenated beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japanese wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, beef leg
- solid oils such as fat, Japanese wax, and hydrogenated castor oil.
- Waxes include, for example, beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, wart wax, whale wax, montan wax, bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, hexyl laurate, Reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether and the like.
- higher fatty acids examples include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, undecylenic acid, toric acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, linoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), docosahexaenoic acid ( DHA) and the like.
- Higher alcohols include, for example, straight-chain alcohols (e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc.); branched-chain alcohols (e.g., monostearyl glycerin ether (bacyl alcohol ), 2-decyltetradecinol, lanolin alcohol, cholesterol, phytosterol, hexyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, etc.).
- straight-chain alcohols e.g., lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, etc.
- branched-chain alcohols e.g., monostearyl glycerin ether (bacyl alcohol ), 2-decyltetradecinol,
- Ester oils include pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, di(phytosteryl/octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, triisostearin, glyceryl diisostearate, triethylhexanoin, dimer dilinoleic acid (phytosteryl/behenyl), dimer Linoleic acid (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl), isopropyl palmitate, macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl, tetra (behenate/benzoate/ethylhexanoate) pentaerythrityl, ethylhexyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, myristic acid Examples include isopropyl, tripropylene glycol dipivalate, diisopropyl sebac
- the aqueous component is not particularly limited as long as it is an aqueous component used in the field of cosmetics, and water, as well as lower alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropyl alcohol and butanol, as well as moisturizing agents and highly water-soluble Ingredients such as molecules, ultraviolet absorbers, sequestering agents, antioxidants, drugs, and the like, which are generally blended as aqueous phase components of cosmetics, can be mentioned.
- the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains a hydrophobized pigment in the internal water phase, it does not easily give a powdery feel when applied and is excellent in spreadability.
- the hydrophobized pigment is dispersed in the internal water phase, the pigment is less likely to be affected by solid oil content, etc., and aggregation of the pigments is less likely to occur, thereby achieving a uniform makeup finish. Therefore, in order to maximize these effects, it is preferable that the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains substantially no powder in the external oil phase. More preferably there is no powder in it.
- the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention can contain a sufficient amount of pigment in the inner water phase, that is, in the emulsified particles. It has excellent unevenness correction effect, and at the same time, it spreads well when applied and is excellent in uniform finish of makeup. Therefore, it can be widely applied to makeup cosmetics such as liquid foundation, concealer, makeup base, eye shadow, blush, and mascara.
- the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention is characterized by containing (B) a hydrophobized pigment in the internal water phase.
- (B) a hydrophobized pigment in the internal water phase first, (A) the nonionic surfactant, (B) the hydrophobized pigment, and other aqueous components are mixed, followed by a bead mill or the like. It is necessary to prepare an aqueous dispersion in which the (B) hydrophobized pigment is dispersed in an aqueous component by treatment with a high-pressure homogenizer or the like.
- the hydrophilicity of (A) the nonionic surfactant is applied to the particle surface of the (B) hydrophobized pigment. Since the oil group is adsorbed and the hydrophilic group faces outward, the (B) hydrophobized pigment can be blended with the aqueous component and dispersed uniformly. As a result, the hydrophobized pigment (B) is stably dispersed in the aqueous dispersion as fine particles, so that an aqueous dispersion with high Newtonian fluidity can be obtained.
- the ratio of (B) the hydrophobized pigment to the total water phase component is preferably 50% by mass or less, more preferably 45% by mass or less, and even more preferably 40% by mass or less.
- the “total aqueous phase components” include (A) nonionic surfactants, (B) hydrophobized pigments, water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, moisturizing agents, and other components that make up the aqueous phase. including. If this ratio ((B) hydrophobized pigment/total aqueous phase component) is 50% by mass or less, an aqueous dispersion having extremely excellent dispersion stability can be obtained, which is preferable.
- the resulting aqueous dispersion is added to an oil phase mixture obtained by mixing (C) a silicone emulsifier, (D) a silicone oil, and other oily components, and a general water-in-oil emulsification It may be emulsified by a method similar to the manufacturing method of cosmetics.
- the following steps (1) to (3) (1) Aqueous dispersion in which (A) a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 9 or more, (B) a hydrophobized pigment, and an aqueous component are mixed, and (B) the hydrophobized pigment is dispersed in the aqueous component preparing a product, (2) a step of mixing (C) a silicone emulsifier, (D) a silicone oil, and an oily component to prepare an oil phase mixture; (3) A step of adding the aqueous dispersion obtained in step (1) to the oil phase mixture obtained in step (2) for emulsification.
- the present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited by these.
- the blending amount is shown in % by mass with respect to the total amount of the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.
- the hydrophobized pigment could not be wetted into the water phase and could not be sufficiently dispersed. Shear thinning was observed in samples 2, 4, 5 and 7. The reason for this is considered to be that the aggregation between the hydrophobized pigments was loosened by the flow. That is, the hydrophobized pigment was not sufficiently wetted with water and was not evenly dispersed. Newtonian flow was observed in samples 3, 6, 8-22. As a result, it was found that the hydrophobized pigment was sufficiently wetted with water and uniformly dispersed in the aqueous component. As described above, when a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 9 or more was used, the hydrophobized pigment could be stably and well dispersed in the aqueous component in any case.
- Aqueous dispersions were prepared by dispersing pigments with different hydrophobic treatment methods in an aqueous component, and dispersibility was evaluated.
- any hydrophobized pigment could be well dispersed regardless of the surface treatment method (Samples 23 to 25).
- Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-8> Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics were prepared using various emulsifiers, and the emulsion stability was evaluated by the following method. Also, the viscosity of the emulsifier used was examined by the following method.
- Emulsion stability After storing the prepared water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic in a constant temperature bath at 50°C for one month, the state of dispersion of the hydrophobized pigment was observed with an optical microscope and evaluated according to the following criteria.
- Viscosity of Emulsifier The viscosity at 25° C. of a solution obtained by dissolving 50% by mass of an emulsifier in cyclopentasiloxane was measured using a Brookfield viscometer. 1. Measured under conditions of 12 rpm for 1 minute.
- Example 14 and Comparative Example 15 As the pigment to be dispersed in the internal water phase, the following methods were used to evaluate the spreadability during application and the uniformity of the makeup finish in the case of using a hydrophobic treatment pigment and the case of using a hydrophilic treatment pigment. .
- a panel of 10 cosmetic evaluation specialists used the water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples, and evaluated them according to the following criteria.
- D Less than 1 panel judged that growth was good
- Example 15 and Comparative Example 16 A water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic (Example 15) in which a hydrophobized pigment is dispersed in the inner water phase and an oil in which the hydrophobized pigment is dispersed in the outer oil phase, both of which have the same ingredients and amounts.
- a medium-water emulsified cosmetic (Comparative Example 16) was prepared, and spreadability during application and uniformity of makeup finish were evaluated.
- An oil phase mixture was prepared by heating and mixing components (1) to (5) in Table 9 at 80° C. or higher. Separately, the components (6) to (11) were heated and mixed and treated with a high-pressure homogenizer to prepare an aqueous dispersion (aqueous dispersion in which a hydrophobized pigment is dispersed in an aqueous component). Next, the aqueous dispersion was gradually added to the oil phase mixture, emulsified by a homomixer treatment, and then cooled to obtain a water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.
- Formulation example 1 Liquid foundation (ingredient name) Amount (% by mass) (1) Dimethicone 17 (2) diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone 11 (3) PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone 4 (4) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.5 (5) distearyldimonium hectorite 1.2 (6) Niacinamide 5 (7) Glycerin 5 (8) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 1 (9) Dipropylene glycol 8 (10) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 (11) (dimethylacrylamide/acryloyldimethyltaurate Na) crosspolymer 0.05 (12) Hydrophobized pigment 10 (13) Water 34.75 Total 100
- Formulation Example 2 Solid emulsified foundation (ingredient name) Blending amount (% by mass) (1) Dimethicone 30 (2) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 4 (3) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.5 (4) Paraffin wax 5 (5) Microcrystalline wax 0.5 (6) distearyldimonium hectorite 1.2 (7) Niacinamide 5 (8) Glycerin 5 (9) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 1 (10) dipropylene glycol 8 (11) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 (12) (dimethylacrylamide/acryloyldimethyltaurate Na) crosspolymer 0.05 (13) Hydrophobic treatment pigment 10 (14) Water 27.25 Total 100
- Formulation Example 3 Concealer (ingredient name) Amount (% by mass) (1) Dimethicone 20 (2) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone 4 (3) Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2.5 (4) Paraffin wax 7 (5) Microcrystalline wax 0.7 (6) distearyldimonium hectorite 1.2 (7) Niacinamide 5 (8) Glycerin 5 (9) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 1 (10) Dipropylene glycol 5 (11) Phenoxyethanol 0.5 (12) (dimethylacrylamide/acryloyldimethyltaurate Na) crosspolymer 0.05 (13) Hydrophobic treatment pigment 20 (14) Water 28.05 Total 100
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Abstract
L'invention a pour objet de fournir un produit cosmétique émulsifié type eau dans l'huile dans lequel un pigment traité pour être hydrophobe est dispersé de manière stable dans une phase aqueuse interne, et ainsi qui se révèle excellent en termes de qualité d'étalement lors de son application et d'uniformité de finition de maquillage, et qui se révèle également excellent en termes de stabilité d'émulsion. Ce produit cosmétique émulsifié type eau dans l'huile comprend un tensio-actif non ionique (A) de valeur HLB supérieure ou égale à 9, le pigment traité pour être hydrophobe (B), un émulsifiant à base de silicone (C), et une huile de silicone (D). Ce produit cosmétique émulsifié type eau dans l'huile est caractéristique en ce que la viscosité d'une solution à 50% en masse de l'émulsifiant à base de silicone (C) dans un cyclopentasiloxane, est supérieure ou égale à 300mPa・s, l'huile de silicone (D) représente plus de 50% en masse de la teneur totale en huile liquide, et le pigment traité pour être hydrophobe (B) est dispersé dans la phase aqueuse interne.
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JP2004026833A (ja) * | 2002-06-26 | 2004-01-29 | L'oreal Sa | 油中水型エマルションファンデーション |
JP2008208045A (ja) * | 2007-02-23 | 2008-09-11 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 油中水型乳化組成物 |
JP2019073460A (ja) * | 2017-10-13 | 2019-05-16 | 花王株式会社 | 油中水型乳化化粧料の製造方法 |
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- 2022-09-30 CN CN202280082952.5A patent/CN118401216A/zh active Pending
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JP2004026833A (ja) * | 2002-06-26 | 2004-01-29 | L'oreal Sa | 油中水型エマルションファンデーション |
JP2008208045A (ja) * | 2007-02-23 | 2008-09-11 | Shiseido Co Ltd | 油中水型乳化組成物 |
JP2019073460A (ja) * | 2017-10-13 | 2019-05-16 | 花王株式会社 | 油中水型乳化化粧料の製造方法 |
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