WO2022229557A1

WO2022229557A1 - Oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising pigments

Info

Publication number: WO2022229557A1
Application number: PCT/FR2022/050798
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sophie Foucault; Fabienne FITOUSSI
Original assignee: Laboratoires Clarins
Priority date: 2021-04-28
Filing date: 2022-04-27
Publication date: 2022-11-03
Also published as: CA3214551A1; JP2024515082A; KR20240001700A; EP4329708A1; CN117255672A; FR3122332A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: a) at least one emulsifier selected from the alkyl phosphate compounds; b) at least one polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier; c) at least one aqueous thickener selected from the polymers containing a sulphone unit; and d) at least one pigment treated on the surface with at least one polyoxyalkylene silicone compound. The invention also relates to a use of a composition as above as make-up for the skin, in particular as foundation.

Description

Title: Oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising pigments

Technical area

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions of the oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion type comprising pigments, dedicated in particular to make-up such as, for example, compositions for foundation, and the use of these oil-in-water emulsions. (O/W) as a foundation.

Technology background

There is a strong demand for cosmetic compositions improving the appearance of the skin. In particular, make-up compositions such as, for example, foundations, make it possible to embellish and even out the complexion or to mask skin imperfections or skin irregularities such as spots, hyperpigmentation, pores, wrinkles and fine lines. The compositions for foundation must have good adhesion to the skin of the powders and particulate coloring matter and a uniform dispersion of these powders and pigments so as to allow good spreading properties, covering and homogeneous make-up as well as good outfit.

It is generally easier to make foundations in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion to obtain good spreadability, coverage and homogeneity. But oil-in-water emulsions (or "direct" emulsions) are particularly appreciated in the cosmetics field for the feeling of freshness they provide on application. For example, the pigmented oil-in-water compositions described in application WO2016/087554 comprising an associative polyurethane, a nonionic surfactant, a fatty alcohol and 10% by weight of pigments coated with a hydrophobic compound are known. However, oil-in-water emulsions are less suitable for foundation products because they have less appropriate sensory properties for this type of product than water-in-oil emulsions, in particular low slip, insufficient coverage and application or handling time (“play time”) too short to be able to work the composition on application and allow easy and uniform application of the color.

Furthermore, compositions with high pigment contents are generally more difficult to stabilize without substantially compromising sensory properties. In addition to emulsion-related instabilities (such as creaming, flocculation), other instabilities may be related to migration, sedimentation or agglomeration. pigments. However, a good dispersion of the pigments is essential and can be more difficult to obtain with direct emulsions. These various instabilities can lead to changes in textures and/or colors of the composition over time. Certain instabilities can also lead to a notable difference in color between that of the mass of the product (color of the composition) and that finally obtained once the composition is applied in the form of a film to the skin.

Finally, it is more difficult to obtain direct emulsions having, after application, satisfactory properties in terms of resistance over time. This lack of resistance can also be exacerbated depending on the surrounding temperature and humidity conditions. A destabilization of the make-up film on the skin will have the effect of causing, in a few hours, a heterogeneous and therefore unsatisfactory visual rendering of the make-up.

There thus remains the need to have cosmetic compositions, in particular for make-up or complexion products, which are effective in unifying the complexion and correcting imperfections and which have good spreading and hold properties with a uniform, covering and natural result. on the skin. There is also a need to have cosmetic compositions for make-up which provide a feeling of freshness and lightness on application, while having good sensory properties, in particular easy to apply and spread, without a braking sensation on application, non-sticky, pleasant to the touch, leaving no greasy feeling and comfortable to wear all day long.

In particular, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions for make-up, in particular for foundations, which provide a feeling of freshness while exhibiting good sensory properties, good slip, good spreadability with long workability ( sufficient "play time"), good coverage and making it possible to obtain an even make-up result.

At the same time, there is a need to have cosmetic compositions with good stability over time, in particular which are stable throughout the storage period of the product up to several months after it has been opened by the end user.

The Applicant has discovered unexpectedly and surprisingly that all of these problems can be solved by the composition according to the present invention.

Summary of the invention

According to one aspect, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: a) at least one alkyl phosphate emulsifier; b) at least one polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier; c) at least one aqueous thickener chosen from polymers with a sulphonic unit; and d) at least one pigment surface treated with a polyoxyalkylene silicone treatment agent.

Indeed, after much research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a complexion product in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, possessing the sensory properties of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular a very good ease of spreading with good slip and a sufficiently long workability time ("play time"), while retaining the qualities of freshness and lightness of oil-in-water emulsions. In other words, the inventors have developed a composition making it possible to combine the advantages of two different dosage forms. In particular, the compositions according to the invention allow a good distribution of the pigments which, surprisingly, blend into the skin and provide good natural coverage and a homogeneous makeup result, which makes it possible to even out the complexion but also to mask the reliefs imperfections in the skin, such as wrinkles, fine lines and pores.

The particular combination of ingredients highlighted by the inventors makes it possible to obtain a composition presenting both this sensoriality and manageability on application, very good homogeneity of color and hold as well as very good stability over time.

Finally, the composition according to the invention has the advantage of obtaining stable oil-in-water emulsions without requiring large proportions of surfactants, emulsifiers and thickeners. The body and stability of the particular combination of ingredients also allows the integration of mineral or organic sunscreens for daily protection without degrading sensory properties or destabilizing playtime or coverage.

The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin. It can be used for caring for and/or making up, in particular for the skin. For example, it can be used as a skin care product, for example as a protection, treatment or care cream for the face, for the hands or for the body, or as a sun protection product. The composition according to the invention can also be used as a product for making up the skin, in particular as a foundation.

Thus, a subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above as a make-up product, preferably as a foundation.

detailed description

General terms used herein are defined below.

The expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more”. The term “comprising” encompasses the term “consisting of”. By “cosmetic composition” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable support, ie a support compatible with the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids). The cosmetic composition is preferably a foundation product, more particularly a foundation.

By “complexion product” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a product for coating the skin (body, face, eye contour, eyelids) making it possible, using pigments, to unify or correct the complexion. , or hide skin imperfections. The foundation product can be a make-up and/or care product. For example, it can be a tinted anti-blemish cream that also provides moisturizing care and/or UV protection. Preferably, the complexion product comprises at least 3% pigments. Preferably, the foundation product is a foundation.

By “foundation”, we mean makeup that gives an even color to the skin on which it is applied. Within the meaning of the invention, a foundation comprises at least 7% of pigments, preferably at least 8% of pigments, more preferably at least 10% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of the composition.

By “oil-in-water emulsion” (denoted O/W), is meant a composition consisting of a continuous aqueous phase in which an oily discontinuous phase is dispersed, in particular in the form of droplets, so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture. with the naked eye.

By "emulsifier" is meant within the meaning of the present invention any compound or mixture of compounds capable of increasing the kinetic stability of an emulsion. Within the meaning of the present invention, this term denotes amphiphilic compounds, that is to say compounds which possess both a hydrophilic (polar) part and a lipophilic (apolar) part.

In the present text, the expression “quantity or content in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition” is equivalent to the expression “quantity or content in % by mass relative to the total mass of the composition”.

The name “INCI” designates the name of a cosmetic ingredient according to the international nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients).

Alkyl phosphate emulsifier:

The composition according to the invention contains at least one emulsifier chosen from alkyl phosphate compounds.

According to the present invention, the term "alkyl phosphate" (also called alkyl phosphate here) encompasses compounds having a phosphate group linked to an alkyl chain, for example monoalkyl phosphates (where the phosphate element is linked to a single alkyl chain) or dialkyl phosphates (where the phosphate element is bonded to two alkyl chains). The composition may include only one type of alkyl phosphate, but two or several different types of alkyl phosphates can also be used in combination.

Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is a monoalkyl phosphate ester.

Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is a C12-C24, preferably C16-C18, alkyl phosphate.

Advantageously, the alkyl phosphate compound is chosen from cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl phosphate compound may be in the form of a salt, for example an alkali metal salt, an alkaline earth metal salt or an ammonium salt. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is in the form of an alkali metal salt. Among the alkali metals, mention may be made, for example, of potassium, lithium and sodium. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is in the form of a potassium salt.

Advantageously, the alkyl phosphate compound is cetyl phosphate, more particularly potassium cetyl phosphate. By way of example of cetyl phosphate which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products marketed under the names Amphisol K (from the company DSM), Amphisol A (DSM) and Crodafos MCK (Croda).

The amount of alkyl phosphate in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.3% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.8% by weight or more with respect to to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of alkyl phosphate in the composition according to the present invention can be at most 2.5% by weight, preferably at most 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Preferably, the amount of alkyl phosphate in the composition according to the present invention is from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the weight composition total. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition.

Polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier:

The composition according to the invention contains at least one polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier.

According to the present invention, the term “polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier” encompasses silicone polymer emulsifiers having at least one polyoxyalkylenated chain, for example chains comprising repeated oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units. This term encompasses in particular organosiloxane polymers (polyorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethyl (or dialkyl) silicones) with polyoxyalkylenated side and/or terminal hydrophilic groups, preferably polyoxyethylenated (or POE) and/or polyoxypropylene (or POP). This term includes in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) comprising one or more ether functions, soluble in water (repeated oxyalkylene units, in particular oxy ethylene and/or oxypropylene).

The polyoxyalkylene chains of the silicone emulsifier can comprise 7 to 18 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier comprises at least 9 units, preferably at least 10 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the silicone emulsifier comprises at most 15 units, preferably at most 13 oxyalkylene units.

Preferably the silicone emulsifier comprises polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene chains, preferably polyoxyethylene.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier has an HLB greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 11, more preferably greater than or equal to 13.

The term HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) is well known and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant at 25°C within the meaning of Griffin. By hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is meant the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

The composition may comprise a single type of polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier. Two or more different types of polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier can be used in combination.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is a straight chain polysiloxane. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is a polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane, preferably polyoxyethylene.

Among the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifiers that can be used, mention may be made, for example, of the following INCI name compounds: PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone (for example marketed by the company Shin-Etsu under the name KF-6011, of HLB 14.5), PEG-10 dimethicone (for example marketed by the company Shin-Etsu under the name KF-6043, with an HLB of 14.5), PEG-12 Dimethicone (for example marketed by the company BRB under the name BRB 526, with HLB of 13, or marketed by the company Momentive Performance Materials Inc. under the name Silsoft 870), lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (for example marketed by the company Siltech under the name Silube J1015-0-212).

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is chosen from dimethicone derivative methyl ethers. For example, we can cite PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone.

The amount of polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention may be at least 0.3% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, and more preferably at least 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. On the other hand, the amount of polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention can be at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier in the composition according to the present invention is preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to combine better stability and sensoriality of the composition.

Aqueous thickener:

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous thickener which is a polymer with a sulphonic unit.

By “thickener”, is meant within the meaning of the present invention a polymer which, by its presence, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced.

By “aqueous thickener” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a water-soluble or water-dispersible or water-swellable polymer.

By “polymer with a sulphonic unit”, is meant a polymer comprising at least one monomer with a sulphonic group, that is to say at least one monomer comprising a -SO ₃ M group where M represents a hydrogen or an alkali or alkaline ion - earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium. It may be a homopolymer (which only comprises monomers with a sulphonic group) or a copolymer (which also comprises other types of monomers). This polymer is capable of being obtained from at least one monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation and containing a sulphonic group. The polymer can be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.

Preferably, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer.

Preferably, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer comprising an acryloyldimethyltaurate unit. In other words, the sulfonic unit polymer is an acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid copolymer.

Advantageously, the copolymer is in the form of an ammonia salt. In other words, the sulphonic unit is in the -SO ₃ M form where M represents an ammonium ion. Preferably, the copolymer comprises an acryloyldimethyl taurate ammonium unit.

Preferably, the copolymer does not comprise an acrylamide unit. This may have an advantage in terms of stability of the composition.

Advantageously, the copolymer also comprises a vinylpyrrolidone unit.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone.

Among the aqueous gelling agents that can be used, mention may be made, for example, of the compounds with the INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (for example marketed by the company Clariant under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC). The amount of polymer with a sulfonic unit in the composition according to the present invention can be at least 0.5% by weight, preferably at least 0.8% by weight, and more preferably at least 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of polymer with a sulfonic unit in the composition according to the present invention can be at most 3% by weight, preferably at most 1.8% by weight, and more preferably at most 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of polymer with a sulfonic unit in the composition according to the present invention is preferably from 0.5% to 1.8% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the amount of water to the amount of polymer with a sulfonic unit is at least 40:1, for example from 40:1 to 70:1. Indeed, the proportion of water compared to the proportion of aqueous thickener has an impact on the feasibility and the stability of the composition.

Surface treated pigment:

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent.

The term "pigments" means particles insoluble in an aqueous and/or organic medium, intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or a film of composition applied to the skin. These pigments can be white or colored. The pigments can be, for example, mineral pigments and/or nacres.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one colored pigment. In other words, the composition comprises at least one colored pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent. It can for example be a pigment (or a combination of pigments) red, yellow or black. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more white pigments.

Preferably, the pigments are chosen from mineral pigments (also called here inorganic pigments). Mention may be made, for example, among useful mineral pigments, of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders.

Preferably, the pigment (which is the subject of a surface treatment) is chosen from mineral pigments of iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

The pigments can also be nacres. By “pearl”, is meant within the meaning of the present invention colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, and which have a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide or an oxide of titanium, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be particles of mica on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic coloring matter. Preferably, the nacres are micas covered with titanium dioxide or iron oxide as well as bismuth oxychloride.

By "surface-treated pigment" is meant a pigment coated with at least one treatment agent. Coating here refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant (or treatment agent), absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. The coating can also comprise at least one additional compound.

The person skilled in the art of formulating can use commercially available surface-treated pigments.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to well-known chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques. The treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid treatment agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and the treatment agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles in the other ingredients of the composition. The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a treatment agent with the surface of the solid particles of pigment and creation of a covalent bond between the treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266. Chemical surface treatment can consist of diluting the treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the treatment agent deposits on the surface pigments.

In the context of the present invention, the pigment is surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent. In other words, the pigments are totally or partially surface treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone compound. The coating of the pigments is here carried out with a hydrophilic compound, that is to say miscible in water. The pigments therefore disperse in the external aqueous phase of the oil-in-water emulsion of the composition according to the invention. Despite this configuration, the composition according to the invention makes it possible, surprisingly, to obtain a covering makeup result, coverage often being lacking in pigmented formulas in direct emulsion.

According to the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylenated silicone agent" encompasses silicone polymers having at least one polyoxyalkylenated chain, for example chains comprising repeating units of oxyethylene, oxypropylene or a mixture thereof.

The silicone surfactants can be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent can be a straight chain polysiloxane.

The polyoxyalkylene chains of the silicone treatment agent can comprise 7 to 18 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the silicone treatment agent comprises at least 7 units, preferably at least 9 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the silicone treatment agent comprises at most 18 units, preferably at most 15 oxyalkylene units.

Preferably, the silicone treatment agent comprises polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene chains, preferably polyoxyethylene chains.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent is a polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane, preferably polyoxyethylene.

As an example of a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent, mention may be made of the compound with the INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone.

The composition can comprise a single type or several different types of pigments surface treated with a polyoxyalkylene silicone treatment agent.

Preferably, the at least one surface-treated pigment is an iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide inorganic pigment treated with a polyoxyalkylene silicone treatment agent.

As examples of commercial references of mineral pigments treated with a polyoxyalkylene silicone compound, mention may be made of: iron oxides (for example of red, black or yellow color) marketed under the references PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.21 IP , PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO.710P, PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P by the company DAITO KASEI EUROPE or titanium dioxide (for example in white color) marketed under the reference PEG12 DM-2 TI02 R200 by the company by DAITO KASEI company.

The particle size of the treated pigment is preferably greater than or equal to 100 nm. Preferably, the size of the pigment particles ranges from 100 nm to 5 mih, preferably from 200 nm to 2 mih, preferably from 500 nm to 1500 nm.

By “particle size”, is meant within the meaning of the present invention the D50 of the particles. The D50, or volume average size, is the particle size defined so that 50% by volume of the particles are smaller than D50. The volume-average size can be assessed by light diffraction using a Malvem MasterSizer laser particle sizer, said particles to be assessed being dispersed in a liquid medium such as, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

Preferably, the amount of pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent in the composition according to the present invention is at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

This makes it possible to have a tinted composition that substantially unifies the complexion.

According to a particular embodiment, the amount of pigment surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent is at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible in particular to obtain compositions for foundations. The amount of surface-treated pigment in the composition according to the present invention may in particular be at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, and even at least 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It should be noted that stable oil-in-water compositions having satisfactory properties are all the more difficult to obtain when they contain a large amount of pigments and fillers. However, the particular combination according to the invention makes it possible to achieve, surprisingly, high levels of pigments in the oil-in-water composition according to the invention, while combining good sensory properties with spreading and coverage. suitable and good stability over time.

Preferably, the quantity of surface-treated pigments is at most 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil phase:

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. In other words, the composition according to the invention comprises a discontinuous oily phase. The oily phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (25°C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

The oily phase (also called fatty phase) comprises at least one oil. It can essentially consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils.

By “oil” we mean a “fatty substance” which is liquid at room temperature (25°C), and at atmospheric pressure (101,325 Pa; 760 mm Hg). Oils can be of vegetable, animal or synthetic origin. They can be volatile or non-volatile. The oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or a mixture of these oils.

By “fatty substance”, is meant an organic compound which is immiscible in water at ambient temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 ⁵ Pa; 760 mm Hg). This type of compound generally has in its structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms. The term “silicone oil”, within the meaning of the present invention, means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group. Mention may more particularly be made of organopolysiloxanes.

“Fluorinated oil” means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

By “volatile oil”, we mean an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is liquid at room temperature and can have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (from 10 ³ to 300 mm Hg). The volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated.

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (less than 10 ³ mm Hg). In particular, it is likely to remain on the skin for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated.

As oils that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbon oils with more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils, vegetable oils, glycerides (including triglycerides synthetics including those of capric/caprylic acids), fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, fatty acid ethers, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

C6-C16 hydrocarbons, of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, preferably alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of nonane (C9), n-decane (CIO), n-undecane (CII), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n- tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16), a mixture of alkanes (eg undecane and tridecane), isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane.

Hydrocarbon oils (hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms), of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, can be linear or branched. By way of example of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of paraffin oils, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane.

The vegetable oils can preferably be chosen from triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric acid triglycerides. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, l hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, mirabelle plum oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof. Glycerides are esters of glycerol with one (monoglycerides) or more (diglycerides and triglycerides) fatty acids. They can be of natural or synthetic origin. Mention may be made, for example, of the triglycerides of capric/caprylic acids.

The alcohols, esters and fatty acids have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more groups hydroxyl.

The esters can be chosen from fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, optionally hydroxylated. These esters, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, can be chosen in particular from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, linoleyl lactate, isocetyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, methyl acetyl ricinoleate, isostearyl palmitate, ethyl, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl myristate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, isostearyl lactate, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl malate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, ethyl2-hexyl caprate/caprylate (or caprate/caprylate octyl), isostearyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, heptanoates (such as isostearyl heptanoate), octanoates (such as cetyl octanoate, cetearyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate ). The fatty acid ethers can be more particularly chosen from ethers comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. They can be of plant origin, such as dicaprylyl ether.

The silicone oils can be chosen from non-volatile cyclic or non-cyclic silicone oils, volatile cyclic or non-cyclic silicone oils and mixtures thereof. The silicone oils may in particular comprise at least one Si—O group. They may in particular be organopolysiloxanes. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include cyclomethicones, polydimethylsiloxanes (or PDMS), linear or cyclic, dimethicones containing alkyl, alkoxy, phenyl or copolyol groups, crosslinked silicone polymers, phenyl silicones, dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, C1 -30 mixed polysiloxanes, dimethiconol, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from dimethicones and methyltrimethicone, and more particularly from dimethicones. The fluorinated oils can for example be chosen from perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may have an oil content of at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may have an oil content of at most 50% by weight, preferably at most 40% by weight, preferably at most 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This is preferable for the stability and the sensoriality of the composition.

The amount of oil in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone oil. This has an advantage in terms of stability and sensoriality.

The content of silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the invention may be from 3% to 40% by weight, for example from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the content of silicone oil(s) in the composition according to the invention is at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase may also comprise additional ingredients which are soluble or miscible in the oil such as, for example, solvents, formulating agents and/or active agents.

Aqueous phase :

The composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase includes water. It may also comprise additional water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as, for example, water-soluble solvents, water-soluble formulating agents and/or water-soluble active agents.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant within the meaning of the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature (25 ° C) and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure ).

Among the solvents that are soluble or miscible in water, mention may be made, for example, of short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4 (such as ethanol, isopropanol, 2-ethoxyethanol), diols or polyols having preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms (such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether , glycerol, and sorbitol), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a water content of at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 45% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition. This makes it possible to obtain better sensory properties and stability of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may have a water content of at most 70% by weight, preferably at most 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This is preferable for the workability and stability of the composition.

Additional fillers and particles:

The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler. The filler may in particular make it possible to confer on the composition additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and/or improved stability.

By "filler" is meant solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. The particles can be colorless, white or colored. They can be mineral or organic in nature. They make it possible to impart body to the composition, softness, mattness and/or uniformity to the make-up.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention can be lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate shape between these defined shapes.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with surfactants such as, for example, silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion. and the compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, silica composites and titanium dioxide.

As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of polyamide, polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, acrylic acid copolymers, lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/ acrylonitrile, hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder, silicone resin microbeads, synthetic or natural micronized waxes, polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. It may also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads range. Mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP- 100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP105® by the company SHIN ETSU. Mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, in particular sold under the name “KSP-200” by the company Shin Etsu; or hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, in particular sold under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin Etsu.

Thanks to his knowledge of cosmetics, the person skilled in the art is able to choose the fillers to be added to the compositions according to the invention and their quantities according to the properties sought without substantially altering the effects linked to the composition according to the invention. .

Additional compounds:

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more formulating agents, in particular conventional cosmetic active agents or excipients.

These formulating agents can be chosen appropriately depending on the use of the composition of the invention.

Non-limiting examples of formulating agents include active agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic, organic solvents (for example lower alcohols and polyols), ionic or non-ionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic rheological (thickening or gelling) agents, softeners, humectants, stabilizers, emollients, film-forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric), fillers (for example mattifying powders, soft focus active touch powders, etc.), UV filters (or photoprotective agents, organic and/or inorganic, active in UVA and/or UVB), dyes, chelating agents (chelating), alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, perfumes or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field. The amounts of these various compounds are those conventionally used in the fields considered.

These compounds, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one active ingredient. Among the assets, we can cite for example:

- anti-pollution agents and/or anti-radical agent and/or antioxidant agents (co-enzyme Q10 or ubiquinone);

- lightening agents, depigmenting agents;

- anti-aging agents;

- tensor or anti-wrinkle agents, such as plant proteins and their hydrolysates (for example soy protein extract);

- moisturizing agents (such as polyols such as for example glycerin); - anti-inflammatory agents (such as for example glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts);

- soothing agents (allantoin, bisabolol, cornflower water);

- antimicrobial or antibacterial agents (such as salicylic acid);

- tensioning agents;

- firming agents;

- vitamins (such as retinol or vitamin A, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, niacinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives such as example the esters of these vitamins);

- essential oils.

Thanks to his knowledge of cosmetics, the person skilled in the art is able to choose the formulating agents to be added to the compositions of the invention and their quantities according to the properties sought without substantially altering the effects linked to the composition according to the 'invention.

The composition according to the invention is suitable for cosmetic use. In particular, the composition according to the invention is suitable for external topical application. It can for example be used as a care product and/or a make-up product.

The composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, that is to say, within the meaning of the present invention, a carrier compatible with the skin.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at most 5% by weight of surfactants, preferably at most 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at most 4% by weight of ionic surfactants, preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Indeed, the compositions according to the invention have the advantage of obtaining stable oil-in-water emulsions without requiring large proportions of surfactants and emulsifiers, which are generally more irritating to the skin.

“Surfactant” is understood to mean any compound which modifies the surface tension between the two surfaces of the two immiscible aqueous and oily phases. They are amphiphilic molecules, i.e. having both a hydrophilic (polar) part and a lipophilic (apolar) part. More particularly, we will speak here of compounds or mixtures of amphiphilic compounds having emulsifying properties, that is to say capable of increasing the kinetic stability of an emulsion. The term surfactant encompasses in particular nonionic surfactants and ionic surfactants such as anionic or cationic surfactants and zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants.

The term "ionic surfactant" within the meaning of the present invention means any surfactant compound comprising at least one ionic charge. Within the meaning of the present invention, we speak more particularly of a compound capable of ionizing in water for a pH between 5 and 8. This term includes anionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants. These surfactants can more particularly be salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts and alkaline-earth metal salts.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention preferably has a pH of less than or equal to 8.

Use :

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for making up the skin.

The composition may have one or more of the characteristics described above. More particularly, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as a foundation.

Preferably, the use relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 7% by weight of pigments and fillers, preferably at least 8% by weight of pigments and fillers, more preferably at least 10% by weight of pigments and fillers relative to the total weight of the composition. The “pigments” and “fillers” are defined previously. It should be noted that oil-in-water compositions having satisfactory properties are all the more difficult to obtain and to stabilize as they contain a large amount of pigments and fillers. However, the inventors have demonstrated an association not only making it possible to obtain stable oil-in-water emulsions highly loaded with pigments but also having excellent sensory properties. The compositions according to the present invention can therefore be used not only for tinted creams but also for foundations which require a greater proportion of pigments, good spreading properties, coverage and workability over time (play-time). .

A subject of the present invention is also a non-therapeutic process for making up and/or caring for the skin comprising at least one step of applying to the skin a composition as defined above.

Examples

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below. The compounds or raw materials used are named by their INCI name. In the absence of any indication to the contrary, the percentages given are percentages by mass. The mention “qsp” means that the quantity must be sufficient for the composition to reach 100% of its final mass.

Example 1: Oil-in-water emulsions comprising 12% pigments Compositions 1 to 8 are prepared according to the procedures described below with the proportions in % indicated in Tables 1 and 2 below. The different compositions are also evaluated in terms of their appearance, their stability over time and their application properties. Table 1:

Compositions 2 to 5 differ from composition 1 according to the invention in that they do not include the combination of the two specific emulsifiers of the composition according to the invention, namely the combination of an alkyl phosphate compound ( such as potassium cetyl phosphate) and a polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier (as per example the compound with the INCI name PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone). The evaluations below show that when one of these emulsifiers is missing or replaced by another type of emulsifier, the stability is compromised.

Table 2:

Compositions 6 to 8 differ from composition 1 according to the invention in that they comprise other types of pigments than those specifically surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent. Comparative compositions 6 and 7 respectively comprise pigments coated with phytic acid (hydrophilic compound) and pigments coated with silica. Comparative composition 8 includes unsurfaced pigments. The evaluations below show that the comparative compositions obtained are not homogeneous or that the emulsion is not stable when other types of pigments (treated or not) are used. In tables 1 and 2 above:

- the left column entitled “P” indicates the phases in which the compounds are present;

- the references in parentheses (next to the INCI name of the compounds or next to the % of pigments) indicate the commercial names of the raw materials used comprising these compounds. Details of these raw materials are given below.

^(a) AMPHISOL K (INCI name: Potassium cetyl phosphate), marketed by the company DSM.

^(b) KF-6011 (INCI name: PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone), marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU.

^(c) ARISTOFLEX AVC (INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer), marketed by the company CLARIANT.

^(d) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments coated with an ethoxylated silicone, marketed by DAITO KASEI under the references PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO.710P (INCI name: CI 77499/iron oxides (and ) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2

RED N0.21 IP (INCI name: CI 77491/iron oxides (and) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P (INCI name: CI 77492/iron oxides (and) PEG-12 dimethicone) and PEG12 DM-2 TI02 R200 (INCI name: CI 77891/titanium dioxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone). Depending on the needs and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used. In composition 1 according to the invention, the following proportions were used (representing a total of 12% by weight of this type of pigment relative to the total weight of the composition): 0.21% of PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO .710P, 0.37% PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.21 IP, 1.70% PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P and 9.72% PEG12 DM-2 TI02 R200. ^(e) TEGO CARE PBS 6 (INCI name: polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate), marketed by EVONIK Nutrition & Care GmbH,

^® SIMULSOL 165 (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate), marketed by the company SEPPIC.

^(s) COVACRYL MV60 (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate), marketed by the company SENSIENT COSMETIC TECHNOLOGIES.

^(h) Chione HD Digital Pink S430V (INCI name: CI 77891 (and) synthetic fluorphlogopite), sold by BASF.

^(l) XIAMETER(R) PMX-1503 FLUID (INCI name: dimethicone (and) dimethiconol), marketed by the company DOW CORNING. ^® GRANSIL SIW-078 (INCI name: dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 (and) aqua (and) butylene glycol (and) decyl glucoside (and) caprylyl glycol) manufactured by GRANT INDUSTRIES, INC. ^(k) SH219 (INCI name: Silica (and) CI 77891/titanium dioxide), manufactured by SUNJIN CHEMICAL CO., LTD.

^(l) ELEMENT 14* PDMS 5-A, manufactured by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS GmbH. ^(m) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments coated with phytic acid

(dispersible in aqueous media) marketed by SENSIENT under the references UNIPURE BLACK LC998 PHY (INCI name: CI 77499(iron oxides) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), UNIPURE RED LC388 PHY (INCI name : CI 77491(iron oxides) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), UNIPURE YELLOW LC188 PHY (INCI name: CI 77492(iron oxides) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide) and UNIPURE WHITE LC987 PHY (INCI name: CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide). Depending on the needs and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments ^is used, representing a total of 12% by weight of coated pigments relative to the total weight of composition 6. iron oxide or titanium dioxide treated with silica, marketed by DAITO KASEI under the references SIH-2 BLACK N°710P (INCI name: CI 77499 (and) silica), SIH-2 RED N°21 IP (INCI name: CI 77491 (and) silica), SIH-2 YELLOW N°602P (INCI name: CI 77492 (and) silica) and SIH 5 TI02 R250 (INCI name: CI 77891 (and) silica ( and) aluminum hydroxide). Depending on the needs and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, representing a total of 12% by weight of treated pigments relative to the total weight of composition 7.

^(p) Pigments of iron oxide or titanium dioxide dispersed in a water/glycerine mixture stabilized with xanthan gum (known to have good performance in O/W emulsions), marketed by the company SENSIENT under the references COVARINE BLACK WN 9798 (INCI name: CI 77499 (and) glycerin (and) aqua (and) xanthan gum (and) sodium citrate), COVARINE RED WN 3798 (INCI name: CI 77491 (and) glycerin (and) aqua (and) xanthan gum (and) sodium citrate), COVARINE YELLOW WN 1798 (INCI name: CI 77492 (and) glycerin (and) aqua (and) xanthan gum (and) sodium citrate) and COVARINE WHITE WN 9787 (name INCI: CI 77891 (and) glycerin (and) aqua (and) xanthan gum (and) sodium citrate). Depending on the needs and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, representing a total of 11.94% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of composition 8.

^(r) Edeta BD, marketed by BASF.

^(s) Wilfarin EP997, marketed by the company WILMAR. ^(t) ZEMEA Propanediol, marketed by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products.

^(u) SENSIVA SC 50, marketed by Schülke France SARL.

Procedure for compositions 1 to 7: An aqueous phase A is prepared by dissolving the disodium EDTA in water in a beaker with stirring. Phase A is maintained under Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculator at 250 rpm (rotation per minute) for approximately 10 minutes and until the disodium EDTA has dissolved. Furthermore, a phase B is prepared beforehand by mixing glycerin, propanediol and ethylhexylglycerin. Phase B is then added to phase A and the whole is stirred for 5 minutes at 250 rpm. The aqueous acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer thickener (phase C) is then added to the preceding aqueous mixture. The whole is stirred until homogenization, gradually increasing the speed from 400 to 800 rpm. Then, sodium polyacrylate (phase D) is added and stirring is maintained for 5 minutes at 1000 rpm before heating the whole thing to 80-85° C. using a hot plate. Phase E (alkyl phosphate or, where appropriate, the mixture of polyglyceryl esters) is added to the hot mixture and stirring is maintained between 1000 and 1200 rpm for 10 minutes at 80-85°C. Phase F (polyoxyalkylenated silicone or, where appropriate, the mixture of stearic acid esters) is then added to the hot aqueous mixture and stirring is maintained at 1000 rpm for 5 minutes at 80-85°C. The emulsion is then produced by incorporating, with stirring (1500 to 1600 rpm), the fatty phase (phase G comprising the dimethicone) previously heated to 80°C, into the aqueous phase maintained at 80-85°C. Stirring is maintained (1500 rpm) for 10 minutes after the formation of the emulsion, still at 80-85°C. The heating plate is then removed to allow the mixture to cool, still under stirring (1100 rpm). When the mixture reaches 50° C., the pigments (phase H) are added and the whole is homogenized with stirring at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes. Phase I (mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol) is then added to the mixture and stirring is maintained for 5 minutes at 1100 rpm. Phase J (mixture of a little water with the GRANSIL SIW-078 premix) is then added and stirring is maintained for 3 minutes at 1100 rpm. Once the mixture has reached 40° C., the perfume (phase K) is added and stirring is maintained for 3 minutes at 1100 rpm. A composition for a foundation is thus obtained.

Procedure for composition 8:

In this procedure, the pigments used are in the form of a ready-to-use dispersion of iron oxide or titanium dioxide particles in a water/glycerine mixture. The percentages in italics given in Table 2 take into account the overall percentage of each of these components in the final composition (the glycerin and part of the water being provided by the commercial dispersion of pigments used).

In this procedure, the disodium EDTA is dissolved in 43.82% water with stirring to prepare an aqueous phase A. This phase A is maintained under Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculator at 250 rpm. A phase B is prepared beforehand by mixing propanediol and ethylhexylglycerin. This phase B is then added to the phase A and the whole is stirred for 5 minutes at 250 rpm. To this aqueous mixture are added the ready-to-use pigment dispersions (phase H): in total 23.88% by weight of dispersions are added, representing 11.94% by weight of pigments (relative to the total weight of the final composition) and 5.97% by weight of glycerin (relative to the total weight of the final composition). The whole is kept under stirring for 5 minutes at 400 rpm. Phases C, D, E, F, G, I, J and K are then added in the same way as in the procedure described above for compositions 1 to 7. A composition for a foundation is thus obtained.

Evaluations and observations: - Stability:

The stability of the above compositions was studied after preparation and after storage under accelerated conditions at 40° C. for 3 months (in a thermostatically controlled oven).

The compositions were evaluated by sensory analysis (appearance, color and smell). The overall appearance is evaluated with the naked eye and under a microscope (Olympus BH2 Microscope 10x10 magnification) in order to check the color, the surface, any phenomena of release, phase separation, sedimentation or agglomeration, as well as as the possible presence of precipitates, phase shift or volute. The smell is compared with the control composition (stored in the dark at 20° C. or in the refrigerator). The results are listed in Table 3 below, in which the following notation is used: C= compliant (absence of phenomenon showing instability)

NC= non-compliant (phenomena showing instability such as emulsion breakage, inhomogeneous mixing, etc.).

Table 3:

Compositions 2 to 8 do not have a satisfactory appearance to allow good application and a homogeneous result, unlike the composition according to the invention. The results show that the particular combination of ingredients according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a composition with a homogeneous distribution of the pigments. The composition according to the invention also exhibits very good stability over time, unlike the comparative compositions. In fact, composition 1 according to the invention is stable in the accelerated conditions generally used in cosmetics to guarantee stability over time, such as 3 months at 40°C. Here, composition 1 is also stable under more severe conditions such as 1 month at 50° C. in a thermostatically controlled oven.

- Sensoriality: Five expert panelists evaluated the texture and the sensory properties of the foundation obtained according to composition 1 of the invention, and in particular the softness, the non-sticky effect, the freshness on application, the slipperiness, the workability time (play-time), coverage and uniformity of the film obtained.

Composition 1 according to the invention has a soft, fine, non-sticky and non-greasy texture to the touch. Also, the texture is light and does not feel heavy. Surprisingly, composition 1 according to the invention combines both good freshness on application, very easy spreading with good glide, sufficiently long workability and good coverage. In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain uniform makeup without marking the imperfections of the skin (such as pores or fine lines). The composition according to the invention thus combines a fresh effect with good sensory properties and good homogeneity of color and spreading.

Example 2: Oil-in-water emulsions comprising 7.5% pigments and sunscreens. The foundation and sunscreen compositions 9 to 12 are prepared according to the procedure described below with the proportions in % indicated in Table 4 below. These compositions all offer high sun protection against UVA and UVB (SPF 30) thanks to a hybrid UV filter system comprising inorganic UV filters (titanium dioxide coated with silica) and organic UV filters (Ensulizole, INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; INCI name octyl salicylate ethylhexyl salicylate; Homosalate; and Octocrylene). These compositions are also evaluated in terms of their appearance, their stability over time and their application properties according to the methods of Example 1.

Table 4:

In Table 4 above, the references in parentheses (next to the INCI name of the compounds) relate to the raw materials used, details of which are given below:

^(d) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments coated with an ethoxylated silicone, marketed by DAITO KASEI under the references PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO.710P (INCI name: CI 77499/iron oxides (and ) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.21 IP (INCI name: CI 77491/iron oxides (and) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P (INCI name: CI 77492 /iron oxides (and) PEG-12 dimethicone) and PEG12 DM-2 TI02 R200 (INCI name: CI 77891/titanium dioxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone). Depending on the needs and the desired final shade, a mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used. In composition 1 according to the invention, the following proportions were used (representing a total of 12% by weight of this type of pigment relative to the total weight of the composition): 0.21% of PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO .710P, 0.37% PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.21 IP, 1.70% PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P and 9.72% PEG12 DM-2 TI02 R200.

^® XIAMETER® PMX-1503 FLUID (INCI name: dimethicone (and) dimethiconol), marketed by the company DOW CORNING.

⁽¹⁾ ELEMENT 14* PDMS 5-A, manufactured by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS GmbH.

^(q) Inorganic sunscreen (particles of titanium dioxide coated with silica and dimethicone) marketed by the company DSM under the reference PARSOL® TX (INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) SILICA (and) DIMETHICONE). ^(r) Edeta BD, marketed by BASF.

^(s) Wilfarin EP997, marketed by the company WILMAR.

^(t) ZEMEA Propanediol, marketed by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products.

^(u) SENSIVA SC 50, marketed by Schülke France SARL.

^(w) Neo Heliopan® Hydro, marketed by the company SYMRISE AG. ^(x) Neo Heliopan® OS, marketed by SYMRISE AG.

^(y) Neo Heliopan® HMS, marketed by SYMRISE AG.

^(z) Neo Heliopan® 303, marketed by the company SYMRISE AG.

Procedure for compositions 9 to 12: An aqueous phase A is prepared by dissolving the disodium EDTA in water in a beaker with stirring. Phase A is maintained under Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculator at 250 rpm (rotation per minute) for approximately 10 minutes and until the disodium EDTA has dissolved. The tromethamine (phase B) is then added in order to make the mixture basic before introducing the sulfonic acid phenylbenzimidazole (phase C), still under Rayneri stirring with a deflocculator. Stirring is maintained until solubilization. Furthermore, a phase D is prepared by mixing glycerine, propanediol, ethylhexylglycerine and phenoxyethanol. Phase D is then added to the previous aqueous mixture (A+B+C) and the whole is stirred, still under Rayneri stirring with a deflocculator. The aqueous acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer thickener (phase E) is then added to the preceding aqueous mixture. The whole is stirred until homogenization, gradually increasing the speed from 400 to 800 rpm. If necessary, the alkyl phosphate compound (phase F for compositions 9, 10 and 11) is added to the preceding mixture with Rayneri deflocculating stirring. Then, if necessary, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier (phase G for compositions 9, 10 and 12) is added with Rayneri deflocculating agitation. Furthermore, an H phase is prepared by mixing, with Rayneri deflocculating agitation, the ethylhexyl salicylate, the homosalate, the octocrylene, the inorganic UV screening agent and the dimethicone. Phase H is then added to the above aqueous mixture with Rayneri deflocculating stirring and the emulsion obtained is stirred for 5 minutes. The pigments (phase I) are then added and the whole is homogenized for 5 minutes under Rayneri deflocculating agitation. In the case of composition 12 (whose emulsion after addition of fatty phase is heterogeneous and not smooth), a phase J (mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol) is added to the previous mixture and stirring is maintained for 5 minutes. A composition for a foundation is thus obtained.

Results :

Comparative composition 11 differs from composition 9 according to the invention in that it does not contain the polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier (PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone). The evaluations show that, from 24 hours of storage, composition 11 has a less luminous, grayer and more heterogeneous (lumpy) appearance than composition 9 according to the invention.

Comparative composition 12 differs from composition 10 according to the invention in that it does not contain the alkyl phosphate compound (potassium cetyl phosphate). The evaluations show that, from 24 hours of storage, the stability of composition 12 is compromised with a non-smooth appearance and an inhomogeneous emulsion.

Furthermore, the evaluation of the sensory properties shows that the comparative composition 11, although it is easy to apply and has a dry feel after 5 minutes (dries quickly), it has a sticky texture and marks the pores. It also has a rougher touch (less smooth and soft on the passage of the finger).

Composition 10 according to the invention combines a good fresh effect and a more fluid appearance than composition 12. It is also felt to be less sticky, less rough, finer on the skin, with more playtime.

Composition 9 according to the invention also combines a fresh effect with good homogeneity of color and spreading.

In conclusion, the combination of ingredients according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain oil-in-water compositions that are homogeneous and stable over time, even with a high content of pigments, while combining both a fresh effect with application (characteristic of oil-in-water emulsions) and spreading properties comparable to those of water-in-oil emulsions, in particular good glide, sufficiently long workability and uniform make-up with good coverage, without the formation of clumps and without marking skin imperfections (pores or fine lines).

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: a) at least one alkyl phosphate emulsifier; b) at least one polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier; c) at least one aqueous thickener chosen from polymers with a sulphonic unit; and d) at least one pigment surface treated with a polyoxyalkylene silicone treatment agent.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the alkyl phosphate emulsifier is chosen from cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl phosphate and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the alkyl phosphate emulsifier is in the form of an alkali metal salt, preferably a potassium salt.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier has an HLB greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 11, more preferably greater than or equal to 13.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is chosen from dimethicone derivative methyl ethers.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the aqueous thickener is a copolymer comprising an acryloyldimethyltaurate unit, preferably in the form of an ammonia salt.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the aqueous thickener is a copolymer of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pigment is an inorganic pigment of iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the at least one pigment is a colored pigment.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent is a polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the quantity of pigment surface-treated with a silicone treatment agent polyoxyalkylene is at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the quantity of pigments surface-treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment agent is at least 7% by weight, preferably at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil.

14. Cosmetic composition according to claim 12, in which the silicone oil content is at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a water content of at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Use of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims for making up the skin, preferably as a foundation.