FR2862534A1 - Cosmetic composition useful as a compact powder, foundation, blusher, eye shadow, concealer or body make-up product comprises hard and soft particles with low refractive indices - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises particles P1 and P2 with refractive indices of 1.6 or less and with different hardnesses, where P1 are not silicone particles. Independent claims are also included for: (1) make-up foundation comprising a composition as above; (2) cosmetic make-up or nontherapeutic treatment for the skin, comprising applying a composition as above to the skin.

Description

1 2862534

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a mixture of solid particles having different hardnesses. The invention also relates to a makeup process or non-therapeutic treatment of human skin comprising the application of the composition to the skin.

  The composition according to the invention may be a makeup or skin care composition, and preferably a make-up composition.

  The makeup composition of the skin may be a foundation, a pom-pears makeup, a blusher, a concealer product, a makeup product of the body. More particularly, the invention relates to a foundation composition.

  The skin care composition can be a product for the care, cleaning, removal of make-up of the skin (face, body, hands), such as a skincare or non-therapeutic treatment base for the skin, such as the skin. hands or face, a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle, moisturizer); a sun protection product for the skin of the face; a sun protection or self-tanning composition; a cleansing cream or emulsion; a deodorant product.

  The makeup compositions of the skin are commonly used to bring an aesthetic color to the skin, especially to the face, but also to hide skin imperfections such as redness, blemishes, wrinkles.

  It is known from EP-A-976389 cosmetic compositions in the form of compact powders comprising elastomeric organopolysiloxane spherical powders. The elastomeric character of these organopolysiloxane powders makes it difficult to compact these compositions. The use of these compositions is therefore not easy insofar as these compositions do not have a good ability to be compacted and they do not make it possible to obtain a product having good impact resistance. Shocks during the transportation or use of the product may then cause degradation of the product, including loss of product.

  EP-A-976388 discloses cosmetic compositions comprising spherical oils and powders of organopolysiloxane elastomer. The compositions are in particular in the form of an emulsion or an oily gel. However, in the preparation of these compositions, because of the ability of the organopolysiloxane elastomer powders to absorb a portion of the oil of the composition, these compositions become viscous, making their implementation more difficult. Indeed, it becomes more difficult to disperse well in these compositions fillers and pigments commonly used in makeup products. In particular, poor dispersion of the pigments and fillers induced after application of the composition to the skin a makeup having a bad composition on the skin makeup with poor homogeneity: the makeup is not uniform due in particular to the appearance of traces or demarcations visible to the naked eye. In addition, the highly viscous compositions do not apply easily to the skin, in particular they do not have sufficient sliding properties to lend themselves to good handling, in particular to ensure the coverage of the entire surface to makeup.

  These elastomer organopolysiloxane powders have a low refractive index, in particular less than or equal to 1.6. These powders have good camouflaging properties of skin imperfections such as blemishes, wrinkles, redness: they confer a fuzzy effect on the product applied to the skin and a good unification of the complexion.

  The object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition containing particles of low refractive index and which can be easily implemented while allowing to obtain good camouflaging properties of skin imperfections.

  Another object of the invention is to provide a makeup composition spreading easily on the skin and to obtain, after application to the skin, a homogeneous, uniform makeup.

  The Applicant has discovered that such a composition is obtained by using solid particles having a low refractive index and having different hardnesses, especially deformable solid particles and non-deformable non-silicated particles.

  The composition according to the invention is easy to implement, makes it possible to obtain a deposit on the skin having good camouflaging properties of the skin. The composition is also easily applied to the skin and provides a uniform, even makeup of the skin.

  More specifically, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, first and second solid particles having a refractive index of less than or equal to 1.6, the first and second solid particles having hardnesses. different, the first solid particles being non-silicone solid particles.

  The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, first and second solid particles having a refractive index of less than or equal to 1.6, the first solid particles being non-silicone solid particles. non-deformable and the second solid particles being deformable solid particles.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup or non-therapeutic treatment of the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition as defined above.

  The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above to obtain, after application to the skin, a good unification of the complexion.

  The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above to obtain a uniform and / or uniform make-up of the skin and / or camouflaging the imperfections of the skin.

  By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a non-toxic medium compatible with the skin of being human.

  The composition according to the invention comprises first non-silicone solid particles having a refractive index of less than or equal to 1.6 (in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.6). In particular, said first solid particles are non-deformable particles; they have a hardness other than (or hardness greater than) the hardness of said second particles present in the composition.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-deformable particles" means solid particles, spherical or otherwise, of hardness sufficient not to deform during the removal of the composition from the finger or the sponge or directly by friction on the skin. In particular, by "non-deformable", it should be understood that the particles are rigid.

  Solid particles are understood to mean particles remaining in the solid state in the composition.

  Non-silicone particles are understood to mean particles containing no polyorganosiloxane compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms. Silicone materials are well known and identified by those skilled in the art.

  Advantageously, the first solid particles have a refractive index less than or equal to 1.55, in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.55.

  The refractive index of a solid particle is determined by effecting a mixture of said solid particle in a content ranging from about 1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the mixture with a liquid medium comprising an oil or a solvent or a mixture of oils or solvents chosen so that the mixture of particles and liquid medium is transparent, that is to say that this mixture is subjected to radiation in the wavelength range 400-700 nm using a spectrophotometer has a direct transmission is equal to 100%.

  The refractive index of the particle is then equal to the refractive index of the medium making it possible to obtain a direct transmission equal to 100%.

  If the liquid medium contains a single oil or a single solvent, the refractive index of the solid particle is equal to the refractive index of the oil or solvent.

  If the liquid medium contains a mixture of oils or solvents, the refractive index is calculated as a function of the volume proportion of each oil or solvent in the liquid medium weighted by their refractive index. For example, a mixture of ethanol (which has a refractive index of 1.36) and phenyl alcohol (which has a refractive index of 1.529) can be used.

  The determination of the refractive index is made at room temperature (25 oc).

  The first solid particles may be glass particles, in particular spherical particles; preferably, the particles are solid glass spherical particles (microbeads).

  Such particles (microbeads) of glass are sold in particular under the names "P2015SL", "P2015SL", "P2043SL", "P2415BT", "P2453BT", "P2453BTA" by the company PRIZMALITE, "SILIBEADS" by the company SIGMUND LINDNER, "Durasphères", "Identispheres" by MoSci Corporation, LUXSIL from Potters Industries.

  Advantageously, the first particles have a number average size ranging from 1 μm to 150 μm, and preferably ranging from 3 μm to 100 μm, and preferably ranging from 3 μm to 60 μm.

  In the composition according to the invention, said first solid particles may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention also comprises second solid particles having a refractive index less than or equal to 1.6, (in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.6) of hardness different from (or less than) the hardness of the first parties. solid cells; in particular, said second solid particles are deformable particles.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "deformable particles" means spherical or non-spherical particles of sufficiently low hardness to deform when the composition is removed by finger or sponge or directly by rubbing on the skin. In particular, by "deformable", it should be understood that the particles are flexible and elastic: after crushing, they resume their original shape.

  Advantageously, the second solid particles have a refractive index less than or equal to 1.5, in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.5.

  The second solid particles may be elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles or deformable particles of non-silicone polymer, and preferably elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles.

  Also, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, first solid particles of glass and second solid particles of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes.

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condenstation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of oranopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

  Preferably, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EPA-295886.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

  The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

  The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

  The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

  The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

  The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

  The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxanemethylhydrogensiloxane cyclic copolymers.

  The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 C.

  In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

  The organopolysiloxane (B) may be selected from nes méthylvinylpolysiloxa-, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, the diméthylsiloxaneméthylphénylsiloxane copolymers dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated, the diméthylsiloxaneméthylvinylsiloxane copolymers slaved endings thylsiloxy, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

  In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

  Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

  It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the The ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) are in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1.

  The compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinicolefinic acid complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum supported .

  The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and ( B).

  The elastomer may be a non-emulsifying elastomer, an emulsifying elastomer.

  The term "non-emulsifying" defined organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing polyoxyalkylene units.

  The term "emulsifier" means crosslinked organopoysiloxane elastomers having at least one polyoxyalkylene unit, especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene.

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may be transported in gel form consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may also be in the form of a powder, in particular in the form of a spherical powder.

  Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents US4970252, US4987169, US 5412004, US5654362, US5760116, in the application JP-A-61-194009.

  Non-emulsifying elastomers which may be used are those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-31", "KSG-32", "KSG-33", "KSG-41", "KSG-42", "KSG-43", "KSG-44" by the company Shin Etsu, "DC 9040", "DC9041", "DC 9509", " DC 9505 "," DC 9506 "by Dow Corning," GRANSIL "by Grant Industries," SFE 839 "by General Electric.

  Advantageously, the emulsifying elastomers comprise polyoxyalkylene modified elastomers formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polysiloxanes having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane. Emulsifying elastomers are described in particular in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793, US5811487. As the emulsifying elastomer, those sold under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "X-226146" by the company Shin Et-su, "DC9010", "DC9011" can be used. by Dow Corning.

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may also be in the form of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in patent US5538793. Such elastomers are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", KSP-104 "," KSP-105 "by Shin Etsu.

  Other elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane in the form of powders may be hybridized silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin Etsu; Hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu.

  The deformable particles of non-silicone polymers may especially be deformable particles of acrylic polymers, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyamide, and preferably polyurethane. In particular, the deformable particles of polymers may be polyurethane and silica particles, in particular of hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone and silica copolymer, such as the powder sold under the name Plastic Powder D 400 by Toshiki.

  In the composition according to the invention, said second solid particles may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight.

  Advantageously, the first and second particles may be present in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio of first particles / second particles ranging from 0.2 to 2.5, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 2.2, and preferably ranging from 0.4 to 2.1.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil that can be chosen in particular from oils of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, alone or as a mixture in so far as they form a homogeneous and stable mixture and where they are compatible with the intended use.

  The oil can be chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils. Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one volatile oil.

  By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 at 10 mmHg). In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150 ° C. to 260 ° C., and preferably ranging from 170 ° C. to 250 ° C.

  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxy-genic, nitrogen, and non-silicon-containing atoms. fluorine; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.

  Silicone oil is understood to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

  By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. The hydrocarbon-based volatile oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 55 ° C., and preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 50 ° C.

  Hydrocarbon volatile oils that may be mentioned include volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched C 6 -C 16 alkenes, such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isododecane. .

  The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 95 ° C., and preferably ranging from from 65 C to 95 C.

  As the volatile silicone oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  The volatile fluorinated oil does not usually have a flash point.

  As fluorinated volatile oil, mention may be made of nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

  The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight. and preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight.

  The expression "non-volatile oil" means an oil that can remain on the skin at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour and in particular having a vapor pressure at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, which is non-zero. less than or equal to 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

  The non-volatile oil may be chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the non-volatile oil is a nonvolatile silicone oil.

  The nonvolatile oil preferably has a viscosity in the range of 10 to 10,000 cSt at 25 ° C and more preferably 10 to 5,000 cSt.

  The nonvolatile silicone oil may be chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids (especially C8-C20), fatty alcohols (especially C8-C20) or polyoxyalkylenes (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene); amino silicones; silicones containing a hydroxyl group; fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group during or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms all or part of the hydrogen of which are substituted by fluorine atoms; and their mixtures.

  Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

  The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from paraffin oil (or petroleum jelly), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soy oil, sweet almond, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, sesame, corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, especially C12-C36, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, di (2-ethyl hexyl) succinate, malate diisostearyl, glycerol triisostearate or diglycerine; higher fatty acids, especially C14-C22 fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, especially C16-C22, such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; and their mixtures.

  The non-volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight. and preferably from 1% to 50% by weight.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may be an anhydrous composition. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

  According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise an aqueous phase containing water. The water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

  The aqueous phase may also comprise solvents other than water such as, for example, primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and hexylene glycol. dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

  The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.

  The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, the aqueous phase, and especially water, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2% to 75% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition may therefore be in the form of a water-in-oil, oil-in-water or multiple emulsion emulsion, and preferably in the form of a water-oil emulsion.

  When the composition according to the invention is in emulsion form, it may comprise a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants, in particular of which the HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic ba-10 lance) is suitable in the emulsion sense.

  As surfactants which may be used in the invention, suitable for obtaining an W / O emulsion, mention may be made of those having a lower HLB 7 and in particular the fatty acid esters of polyols such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesquioleates or stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, laurates of glycerol or polyethylene glycol; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or pendant alkoxy chain or at the end of a silicone backbone having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. As surfactants which can be used in the invention for obtaining an O / W emulsion, mention may be made of those having an HLB greater than 7, such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters (monostearate or polyethylene glycol monolaurate); fatty acid esters (stearate, oleate) of polyoxyethylenated sorbitol; polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl) ethers and dimethicone copolyols. In general, it is possible to use any ionic surfactant (cationic or anionic) amphoteric and any nonionic surfactant, well known to those skilled in the art.

  The surfactant may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise an additional charge which differs from the first and second solid particles described above.

  By fillers is meant any colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any form, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made.

  The additional fillers may be chosen in particular from mineral or organic fillers of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example) , precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

  The additional fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80% by weight.

  The composition may also comprise at least one dyestuff, chosen in particular from pigments, nacres and dyes.

  The dyestuff may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from at 15% by weight.

  By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

  By nacres, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent form, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, the violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

  Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

  The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  Advantageously, the pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent.

  The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

  The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The alkyl term mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 atoms. of carbon.

  Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EPA-1086683.

  The dyes may be chosen in particular from liposoluble dyes, for example Sudan red, D & C Red n 17, D & C Green n 6, 13-carotene, soya bean oil, Sudan brown, D & C Yellow n 11, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Orange No. 5, yellow quinoline, annatto, bromoacids.

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise a total content of pulverulent materials (that is to say all the ingredients present in the composition in the form of solid particles) ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 40% to 99% by weight, and preferably ranging from 60% to 99% by weight.

  The composition may contain other usual cosmetic ingredients that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, hyalurants and self-tanning compounds. , anti-wrinkle assets.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired. by the addition envisaged.

  The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a compact powder, a loose powder, a cast product, a stick, an oily gel (oily gel), an emulsion, in particular water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water emulsion.

  According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the invention can be a compact powder.

  The invention is further illustrated by the examples described below. EXAMPLE 1 A compact powder having the following composition was prepared: Talc 61.6 g Bismuth oxychloride 4 g Nylon-12 powder 5 g Iron oxide mix yellow, brown, black 3 g Polyurethane powder silica (PLASTIC POWDER D-400 4 g TOSHIKI) Titanium dioxide 1 g Nano titanium dioxide 2 g Glass microspheres (P2015SL from PRIZMALITE) 3 g Sericite coated with Carnauba wax (94.5 / 5.5) 3 g (TOSHIKI UW-A5 sericite) Titanium dioxide titanium oxide coated talcum 4 g methylhydrogen polysiloxane (TZ Powder type 2 from Myoshi) Crosslinked dimethylpolysiloxane spherical powder elastomer 1.4 g (Dow Corning 9506 Powder from Dow Corning) Polydimethylsiloxane beads Resin-coated resin-coated 0.1 g silsesquioxane (KSP 100 from SHIN ETSU) Preservative qs 1.5 g Isononyl isononanoate Triisocetyl citrate 0.2 g Isocetyl stearate 1.5 g Pentylene glycol 0.5 g 25 30 35 Polydimethylsiloxane DC 200 Fluid - 10 cts DOW CORNING 2.2 g Resin Blend trimethylsiloxysilicate and polydimethylsiloxane (33/67) (Dow Corning 593 Fluid from Dow Corning) 0.7 g Polymethylcetyl dimethylsiloxane (Abil Wax 9801 GOLDSCHMIDT) 0.4 g The composition is prepared by mixing all the powders and then by adding the binder (mixture of liquid fatty substances), this mixture being then ground and screened until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Part of the composition is placed in a cup and then compacted.

  A compact powder with a pleasant feel is obtained, the application of which on the face provides a makeup with a good homogeneity of color and a good mattness. The makeup obtained is uniform and masks the imperfections of the skin.

Example 2

  A foundation was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the following composition: a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, isostearate of 0.7 g polyglycerol-4 and hexyl laurate 40/30 / (Goldschmidt ABIL WE 09) 1.7 g Acetylene ethylene glycol stearate Cyclopentasiloxane 22.25 g Polydimethylsiloxane DC 200 Fluid - 10 cts DOW CORNING 4 g Isododecane 2.6 g Mixture of iron oxides yellow, red, black 2.96 g Titanium dioxide 0.04 g Glass microspheres (P2015SL from PRIZMALITE) 3 g Resin-bound reticulated polydimethylsiloxane beads 5.0 g silsesquioxane (KSP-100 from SHIN ETSU) Magnesium sulphate 0.7 g gets a foundation that spreads well on the skin and provides a makeup with good color homogeneity and good dullness. The makeup obtained is uniform and masks the imperfections of the skin. 25 30

Preservatives qs Water qs 100 g

Claims (56)

  1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, first and second solid particles having a refractive index less than or equal to 1.6, the first and second solid particles having different hardnesses, the first solid particles being solid particles non-silicone   2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first solid particles are non-deformable particles and the second solid particles are deformable particles.   3. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, first and second solid particles having a refractive index of less than or equal to 1.6, the first solid particles being non-deformable non-silicone solid particles and the second solid particles being deformable solid particles.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first solid particles have a refractive index ranging from 1.3 to 1.6.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the first solid particles have a refractive index less than or equal to 1.55, in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.55.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first solid particles are glass particles.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first solid particles are spherical particles.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles are solid glass spherical particles.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second solid particles have a refractive index ranging from 1.3 to 1.6.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second solid particles have a refractive index less than or equal to 1.5, in particular ranging from 1.3 to 1.5.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second solid particles are chosen from elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles, the deformable particles of non-silicone polymer.   12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second solid particles are elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles.   13. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, first solid glass particles and second solid particles of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes.   14. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is selected from those obtained: - by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganosiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenic unsaturation groups; by condensation reaction crosslinking dehydrogenation between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopoly-lysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen; by the crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminus and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane; by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation.   15. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 14, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B ) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.   16. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 15, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.   17. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that the crosslinked organopolysiloxane is an emulsifier elastomer.   18. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the emulsifying elastomer is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane having at least one polyoxyalkylene unit, especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene.   19. Composition according to any one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles are in the form of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin.   20. Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the deformable particles of non-silicone polymers are chosen from deformable particles of acrylic polymers, polyesters, polyurethanes, polyamide, and preferably polyurethane.   21. Composition according to Claim 11 or 20, characterized in that the deformable particles of non-silicone polymers are polyurethane and silica particles, in particular hexamethylene diisocyanateltrimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer and silica.   22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first solid particles are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 0.1% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight.   23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second solid particles are present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight.   24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and second particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a weight ratio of first particles / second particles ranging from 0.2 to 2.5, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 2.2, and preferably ranging from 0.4 to 2.1.   25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one oil.   26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one volatile oil.   27. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms; linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; volatile fluorinated oils.   28. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile oil is chosen from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane.   29. Composition according to any one of Claims 26 to 28, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight.   30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a non-volatile oil.   31. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.   32. Composition according to claim 30 or 31, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is a nonvolatile silicone oil.   33. Composition according to any one of claims 30 to 32, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids (especially C8-C20), fatty alcohols (especially C8-C20) or polyoxyalkylenes (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene); amino silicones; silicones containing a hydroxyl group; fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group during or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, all or part of the hydrogen of which is substituted by fluorine atoms; and their mixtures.   34. Composition according to any one of Claims 30 to 33, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from paraffin oil, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, oil of 22 2862534 mink, turtle, soya, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, sesame, corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts; C12-C36 fatty esters; higher C14-C22 fatty acids; higher C16-C22 fatty alcohols; and their mixtures.   35. Composition according to any one of claims 30 to 34, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight.   36. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is anhydrous.   37. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an aqueous phase.   38. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises a solvent selected from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol , diethylene glycol, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.   39. A composition according to claim 37 or 38, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 2% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight. % in weight.   40. Composition according to any one of claims 37 to 39, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil, oil-in-water, multiple emulsion, and preferably in the form of emulsion. Emulsion water-oil emulsion.   41. Composition according to any one of claims 37 to 40, characterized in that it comprises a surfactant.   42. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional charge different from the first and second solid particles.   43. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional filler is chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, poly-13alanine powders, polyethylene powders, powders. tetrafluoroethylene polymers, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow microspheres of polyvinylidene acetonitrile, hollow microspheres of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.   44. A composition according to claim 42 or 43, characterized in that the additional filler is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1%. at 80% by weight.   45. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a dyestuff.   46. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the dyestuff is chosen from pigments, nacres, dyes, and mixtures thereof.   47. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dyestuff is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 % to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5 to 15% by weight.   48. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a total content of pulverulent materials ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 40% to 99% by weight, and preferably ranging from 60% to 99% by weight.   49. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cosmetic ingredient chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds, anti-wrinkle active ingredients.   50. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a compact powder, a loose powder, a cast product, a stick, a d an oily gel, an emulsion.   24 2862534 51. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is a compact powder.   52. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a foundation, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a product. concealer, a body makeup product.   53. A foundation comprising a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   54. Cosmetic makeup or non-therapeutic skin treatment method comprising the application to the skin of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   55. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 53 to obtain after application to the skin a good unification of the complexion.   56. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 53 to obtain a uniform and / or uniform makeup of the skin and / or camouflaging skin imperfections.