CN117255672A - Oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising pigment - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising: a) At least one emulsifier selected from alkyl phosphate compounds; b) At least one polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier; c) At least one aqueous thickener selected from polymers having sulfonic acid units; and d) at least one pigment, the surface of which is treated with a polyoxyalkylenated organosilicon compound. The invention also relates to the use of the above composition for making up the skin, in particular as a foundation.

Description

Oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising pigment

Technical Field

The present invention relates to the field of oil-in-water emulsion (O/W) cosmetic compositions comprising pigments, in particular cosmetic compositions intended for make-up, such as foundation compositions, and the use of these oil-in-water emulsions (O/W) as foundations.

Background

There is a great need for cosmetic compositions that improve the appearance of skin. In particular, make-up compositions for use as, for example, foundations, allow for beautifying and evening skin color or masking skin imperfections or skin non-uniformities, such as spots, hyperpigmentation, pores, wrinkles and fine lines. The powders and specific coloring materials in the foundation composition should have good adhesion to the skin and these powders and pigments should be uniformly dispersed to provide good extensibility, hiding and uniform make-up as well as good durability.

Foundations in the form of water-in-oil emulsions are generally easier to make to obtain good extensibility, hiding power, and uniformity. However, oil-in-water emulsions (or "direct" emulsions) are particularly popular in the cosmetic field because they impart a refreshing feel upon application. Pigment-containing oil-in-water compositions comprising an associative polyurethane, a nonionic surfactant, a fatty alcohol and 10% by weight of a pigment coated with a hydrophobic compound are known, for example as described in patent application WO 2016/087554.

However, oil-in-water emulsions are not well suited for make-up products because their organoleptic properties are inferior to those of water-in-oil emulsions for this type of product, in particular less silky, insufficient hiding power, too short an application or working ("play time") time to act on the composition at the time of application and allow easy and color-uniform application.

In addition, compositions with high pigment levels are generally more difficult to stabilize without substantially compromising organoleptic properties. In addition to the instability associated with emulsions (e.g., creaming, flocculation), other instabilities may be associated with migration, precipitation, or agglomeration of the pigment. However, good dispersion of the pigment is indispensable and may be more difficult to achieve by direct emulsion. These various instabilities may cause the texture and/or hue of the composition to change over time. Some instability may also result in a significant difference between the color of the product itself (the color of the composition) and the color that is ultimately obtained after the composition is applied to the skin in the form of a film.

Finally, it is more difficult to obtain a direct emulsion with satisfactory properties in terms of durability after application. Persistent defects are also exacerbated with ambient temperature and humidity conditions. Instability of the make-up film on the skin will cause the make-up to become visually uneven and therefore unsatisfactory within a few hours.

There is still a need for cosmetic compositions, in particular make-up or make-up products, which are effective for evening skin tone and correcting imperfections and which have good extensibility and durability, with a homogenous, hiding and natural effect on the skin. There is also a need for make-up cosmetic compositions which, when applied, give a fresh and light feel, while having good organoleptic properties, in particular being easy to apply and spread, having no dry feel, no sticky feel, pleasant touch, no greasy feel and pleasant make-up throughout the day.

In particular, there is still a need for make-up cosmetic compositions, in particular foundations, which give a fresh feel while exhibiting good organoleptic properties, good silkiness, good extensibility, having sufficient working time, good hiding power and allowing to obtain a uniform make-up effect.

At the same time, there is a need for cosmetic compositions with good stability over time, in particular stable over the whole product storage period up to several months after the end user has opened.

The applicant has unexpectedly and surprisingly found that all these problems can be solved by the composition according to the invention.

Disclosure of Invention

According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising:

a) At least one alkyl phosphate emulsifier;

b) At least one polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier;

c) At least one aqueous thickener selected from polymers having sulfonic acid units; and

d) At least one pigment, the surface of which is treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment.

Indeed, as a result of extensive research, the inventors have found that it is possible to provide make-up products in the form of oil-in-water emulsions which have the organoleptic properties of water-in-oil emulsions, in particular good extensibility, and which have a good silky feel, a long enough period of operability ("play time"), while retaining the refreshing and light, thin texture of oil-in-water emulsions. In other words, the inventors developed a composition that allows to combine the advantages of two different galenic formulations. In particular, the composition of the invention allows a good distribution of pigments which surprisingly merge with the skin and bring about a good natural hiding power and a uniform make-up effect which allows a uniform skin tone and also covers obvious imperfections on the skin, such as wrinkles, fine lines and pores.

The specific combination of ingredients proposed by the inventors allows to obtain a composition having such organoleptic properties and application operability at the same time, excellent color uniformity and permanence, and excellent stability over time.

Finally, the compositions of the present invention have the advantage of obtaining stable oil-in-water emulsions without the need for high proportions of surfactants, emulsifiers and thickeners. The shaping and stability of a particular combination of ingredients also allows for the addition of inorganic or organic filters for daily protection without degrading organoleptic properties or compromising the stability of the handleability time or hiding.

The compositions of the present invention are suitable for topical application to the skin. It can be used for caring for and/or making up, in particular for the skin. For example, it can be used as a skin care product, for example as a face, hand or body protection, treatment or care cream, or as a sun protection product. The compositions of the invention are also useful as skin make-up products, in particular as foundations.

The invention therefore also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition defined above as a makeup product, preferably as a foundation.

Detailed Description

The general terms used in the present invention are defined as follows:

The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

The expression "comprising" includes the expression "consisting of …".

In the meaning of the present invention, "cosmetic composition" means a composition suitable for external topical application. It comprises a cosmetically acceptable carrier, i.e. a carrier compatible with the skin (body, face, periocular, eyelid). The cosmetic composition is preferably a make-up product, more particularly a foundation.

Within the meaning of the present invention, "make-up product" means a skin (body, face, periocular, eyelid) draping product that allows to even or correct the complexion or to mask skin imperfections by means of pigments. The base cosmetic product may be a make-up product and/or a skin care product. For example, it may be a cream that is resistant to colored imperfections, which also provides moisturizing care and/or uv protection. Preferably, the make-up product comprises at least 3% pigment. Preferably, the foundation product is a foundation.

"foundation" refers to a make-up that gives the skin to which it is applied a uniform skin tone. Within the meaning of the present invention, the foundation comprises at least 7% by weight of pigment, preferably at least 8% by weight of pigment, more preferably at least 10% by weight of pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition.

"oil-in-water emulsion" (expressed as O/W) refers to a composition consisting of a continuous aqueous phase in which an oily discontinuous phase is dispersed, especially in the form of droplets, so that a macroscopically homogeneous mixture is observed with the naked eye.

Within the meaning of the present invention, "emulsifier" means any compound or mixture of compounds that can improve the kinetic stability of an emulsion. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term refers to amphiphilic compounds, that is to say they have both hydrophilic (polar) and lipophilic (non-polar) moieties.

In this context, the expression "amount or weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition" is equivalent to the expression "amount or weight percent relative to the total mass of the composition".

The "INCI" name refers to the name of the cosmetic ingredient according to International cosmetic ingredient nomenclature (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients).

Alkyl phosphate emulsifiers；

The composition of the present invention contains at least one emulsifier selected from alkyl phosphate compounds.

According to the present invention, the term "alkyl phosphate" (also referred to herein as an alkyl phosphate) includes compounds having a phosphate group bonded to an alkyl chain, such as a mono-alkyl phosphate (wherein the phosphate is bonded to a single alkyl chain) or a di-alkyl phosphate (wherein the phosphate is bonded to two alkyl chains). The composition may comprise a single type of alkyl phosphate, but two or more different types of alkyl phosphate may also be used in combination.

Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is a monoalkyl phosphate.

Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is a C12-C24 alkyl phosphate, preferably a C16-C18 alkyl phosphate.

Advantageously, the alkyl phosphate compound is selected from cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetylstearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl phosphate compound may be in the form of a salt, such as an alkali metal salt, alkaline earth metal salt, or ammonium salt. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is in the form of an alkali metal salt. Among the alkali metals, potassium, lithium and sodium are exemplified. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate compound is in the form of a potassium salt.

Advantageously, the alkyl phosphate compound is selected from cetyl phosphate, more particularly potassium cetyl phosphate. As examples of cetyl phosphate which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the products sold under the names Amphiol K (DSM company), amphiol A (DSM) and Crodafos MCK (Croda).

In the composition of the present invention, the amount of the alkyl phosphate may be 0.3% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, more preferably 0.8% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the compositions of the invention, on the other hand, the amount of alkyl phosphate may be up to 2.5% by weight, preferably up to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, in the composition of the invention, the amount of alkyl phosphate may be at most 0.5-2.5 wt%, preferably 0.8-1.5 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This allows to combine a better stability with the organoleptic properties of the composition.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifiers；

The compositions of the present invention contain at least one polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier.

According to the invention, the term "polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier" includes silicone polymer emulsifiers having at least one polyoxyalkylene chain, for example chains comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene repeating units. The term includes in particular organosiloxane polymers (polyorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethyl (or dialkyl) silicones) having polyoxyalkylenated hydrophilic side groups and/or end groups, preferably polyoxyethylene (or POE) and/or polyoxypropylenated (or POP) hydrophilic side groups and/or end groups. The term includes in particular Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), comprising one or more ether functionalities, soluble in water (oxyalkylene repeat units, in particular oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene).

The polyoxyalkylene chain of the silicone emulsifier may comprise 7 to 18 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier comprises at least 9 oxyalkylene units, preferably at least 10 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the silicone emulsifier comprises at most 15 alkylene oxide units, preferably at most 13 alkylene oxide units.

Preferably, the silicone emulsifier comprises polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene chains, preferably polyoxyethylene chains.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifier has an HLB of greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 11, more preferably greater than or equal to 13.

The term HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) is well known and refers to the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the Griffonia proposed surfactant at 25 ℃. The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) refers to the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic groups and the size and strength of the lipophilic groups of a surfactant. The HLB values proposed by Griffonia are defined in J.Soc.cosm.chem.1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

The composition may contain a single type of polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier. Two or more different types of polyoxyalkylene silicone emulsifiers may be used in combination.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is a linear polysiloxane. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is a polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane, preferably a polyoxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane.

Among the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifiers that can be used, there may be mentioned, for example, the compounds having the following INCI names: PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone (e.g., sold by Shin-Etsu under the name KF-6011, HLB 14.5), PEG-10 dimethicone (e.g., sold by Shin-Etsu under the name KF-6043, HLB 14.5), PEG-12 dimethicone (e.g., sold by BRB under the name BRB 526, HLB 13,Momentive Performance Materials Inc. Sold by company under the name Silsoft 870), lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone (e.g., sold by Siltech under the name Silube J1015-O-212).

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is selected from dimethyl ether derived from dimethylpolysiloxane. By way of example, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethylpolysiloxane may be cited.

In the compositions of the present invention, the amount of polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier may be at least 0.3 wt%, preferably at least 0.5 wt%, more preferably at least 0.8 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the compositions of the invention, on the other hand, the amount of polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier may be up to 5% by weight, preferably up to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the composition of the invention, the amount of polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This allows to combine a better stability with the organoleptic properties of the composition.

Aqueous thickener：

The composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous thickener which is a polymer having sulfonic acid units.

Within the meaning of the present invention, a "thickener" is a polymer whose presence allows to increase the viscosity of the composition in which it is added.

In the meaning of the present invention, an "aqueous thickener" refers to a water-soluble or water-dispersible or water-swellable polymer.

"Polymer having sulfonic acid units" means a polymer comprising at least one polymer comprising monomers having sulfonic acid groups, that is, at least one polymer comprising SO ₃ And M is hydrogen, alkali or alkaline earth ion, ammonium or alkanolammonium. It may be a homopolymer (comprising only monomers having sulfonic acid units) or a copolymer (including other types of monomers as well). The polymer is obtainable from at least one monomer having an ethylenically unsaturated group and a sulphonic acid group. The polymer may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.

Preferably, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer.

Preferably, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer comprising acryloyldimethyl taurinic acid units. In other words, the polymer having sulfonic acid units is a copolymer of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid.

Advantageously, the copolymer is in the form of an ammonia salt. In other words, the form of the sulfonic acid unit is-SO ₃ M, wherein M represents an ammonium ion. Preferably, the copolymer comprises acryl dimethyl taurate units.

Preferably, the copolymer does not contain acrylamide units. This may have an advantage in terms of stability of the composition.

Advantageously, the copolymer further comprises vinylpyrrolidone units.

According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the aqueous thickener is a copolymer of acrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone.

Among the aqueous gelling agents that can be used, there may be mentioned, for example, compounds comprising the INCI name of ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer (for example, sold by Clariant company under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC).

In the composition of the invention, the amount of polymer having sulfonic acid units may be at least 0.5 wt%, preferably at least 0.8 wt%, more preferably at least 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition, in the composition of the present invention, the amount of the polymer having sulfonic acid units may be up to 3% by weight, preferably up to 1.8% by weight, more preferably up to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the composition of the invention, the amount of the polymer having sulfonic acid units is preferably 0.5 to 1.8% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the amount of water to the amount of polymer having sulfonic acid units is at least 40:1, for example 40:1 to 70:1. In fact, the ratio of water to aqueous thickener has an impact on the feasibility and stability of the composition.

Surface-treated pigments：

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one pigment having a surface treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment.

"pigment" refers to particles that are insoluble in aqueous and/or organic media and are intended to color and/or opacify a film of the composition and/or composition applied to the skin. These pigments may be white or colored. The pigment may be, for example, a mineral pigment and/or nacre.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one coloured pigment. In other words, the composition comprises at least one pigment having a surface treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment. For example, it may be a red, yellow or black pigment (or combination of pigments). The composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more white pigments.

Preferably, the pigment is selected from mineral pigments (also referred to herein as inorganic pigments). Among the mineral pigments which can be used, mention may be made, for example, of zinc, (black, yellow or red) iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders.

Preferably, the pigment (surface treated) is selected from the group of mineral pigments iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

The pigment may also be nacre. "mother-of-pearl" in the meaning of the present invention refers to colored particles of any shape, iridescent or non-iridescent, in particular produced or synthesized by certain mollusks in their shells, and which exhibit a colored effect under optical interference. The nacres may be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide or titanium oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and bismuth oxychloride based pearlescent pigments. It may also be mica particles, on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxide and/or organic colouring substances are superimposed. Preferably, the nacre is mica coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride.

"surface treated pigment" refers to a pigment that is coated with at least one treatment agent. Coating here means that the whole or part of the surface of the pigment is treated with a surfactant (or treating agent), absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment. The coating may also comprise at least one additional compound.

Commercially available surface treated pigments can be used by those skilled in the art.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to well known chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques. The treating agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and covalent bond formation. Cladding may be achieved, for example, by the following methods: the particles and treating agent are simply mixed with stirring, optionally heated, and then the particles are incorporated into the other ingredients of the composition, thereby adsorbing the liquid treating agent on the surface of the solid particles. Cladding may be achieved, for example, by the following methods: the treating agent chemically reacts with the surface of the solid particles of the pigment and covalent bonds are formed between the treating agent and the particles. Such a method is described in particular in patent US 4 578 266. Surface chemistry may include diluting the treating agent into a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment into such a mixture, and then slowly vaporizing the volatile solvent, thereby causing the treating agent to deposit on the pigment surface.

In the context of the present invention, the pigment surface is treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment. In other words, the pigment surface is treated in whole or in part with the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment. The coating of the pigment is effected here by means of hydrophilic compounds, that is to say water-miscible. The pigment is thus dispersed into the external aqueous phase of the oil-in-water emulsion of the composition of the invention. Despite this configuration, the compositions of the present invention surprisingly allow to obtain a make-up hiding power which is often lacking in coloring formulations in the form of direct emulsions.

According to the present invention, the term "polyoxyalkylene silicone treatment" includes silicone polymers having at least one polyoxyalkylene chain, such as chains comprising repeating units of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures thereof.

The silicone surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. In particular, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment may be a linear polysiloxane.

The polyoxyalkylene chain of the silicone treatment may comprise 7 to 18 oxyalkylene units. Preferably, the silicone treatment comprises at least 7 alkylene oxide units, preferably at least 9 alkylene oxide units. Preferably, the silicone treatment comprises at most 18 alkylene oxide units, preferably at most 15 alkylene oxide units.

Preferably, the silicone treatment comprises polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene chains, preferably polyoxyethylene chains.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment is a polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane, preferably a polyoxyethylenated polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane.

As an example of the polyoxyalkylene silicone treatment agent, a compound having the INCI name of PEG-12 dimethylpolysiloxane can be cited.

The composition may comprise a single type or several different types of pigments having surfaces treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment.

Preferably, the surface treated at least one pigment is a mineral pigment iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treating agent.

As commercial reference examples of mineral pigments treated with polyoxyalkylenated organosilicon compounds, there can be mentioned: iron oxide (e.g., red, black, or yellow) sold by DAITO KASEI EUROPE under the name PEG12 DM-2RED No.211P, PEG12 DM-2BLACK No.710P, PEG12DM-2YELLOW No.602P, or titanium dioxide (e.g., white) sold by DAITO KASEI under the name PEG12 DM-2TIO 2R 200.

The particle size of the treated pigment is preferably greater than or equal to 100nm. Preferably, the particle size of the pigment ranges from 100nm to 5. Mu.m, preferably from 200nm to 2. Mu.m, preferably from 500nm to 1500nm.

In the meaning of the present invention, "particle size" refers to the D50 of the particle. The particle size corresponding to D50 or the average volume particle size is defined as 50% of the volume of particles having a particle size less than D50. The average volume particle size can be estimated by diffraction of light by means of a MasterSizer laser particle sizer of Malvern, the particles to be estimated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as octyldodecyl pivalate.

Preferably, in the composition of the invention, the amount of pigment whose surface has been treated with the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment is at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This allows to obtain a coloured composition which can be visibly homogeneous in colour.

According to a particular embodiment, the amount of pigment surface treated with the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment is at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This allows, inter alia, to obtain a foundation composition. In the composition of the invention, the amount of surface treated pigment may especially be at least 8 wt%, more preferably at least 10 wt%, even less than 12 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is noted that stable and satisfactory oil-in-water compositions are more difficult to obtain because they contain large amounts of pigments and fillers. However, according to the specific combination of the present invention, it is allowed to surprisingly reach higher pigment content in the oil-in-water composition according to the present invention, while combining good organoleptic properties with suitable extensibility and hiding power and good stability over time.

Preferably, the surface treated pigment is present in an amount of up to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oil phase：

The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. In other words, the compositions of the present invention comprise a discontinuous oil phase. The oil phase is liquid (in the absence of structurants) at room temperature (25 ℃). It is organic and water-immiscible.

The oil phase (also referred to as the fat phase) comprises at least one oil. It may consist essentially of a single oil or a mixture of several oils.

"oil" refers to a "fat body" that is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (101 325Pa;760mm Hg). The oil may be of vegetable, animal or synthetic origin. They may be volatile or non-volatile. The oil may be a hydrocarbon oil, silicone oil, fluorinated oil or a mixture of these oils.

"fat body" means a body formed at room temperature (25 ℃) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10) ⁵ Pa;760mm Hg) of organic compounds that are not miscible in water. Such compounds typically have a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.

"hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil that contains primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular at least one si—o group. More specifically, organopolysiloxane can be cited.

"fluorinated oil" refers to an oil that contains at least one fluorine atom.

By "volatile oil" is meant an oil that is capable of vaporizing within one hour after contact with the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is liquid at room temperature and has vapor pressure of 0.13Pa-40 000Pa (10 ^-3 300mm Hg). The volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-containingCompound, silicon-containing or fluorine-containing.

"non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13Pa (less than 10 ^-3mm Hg). In particular, it may remain on the skin for at least several hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The non-volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-containing, silicon-containing or fluorine-containing.

Examples of oils that can be used in the context of the present invention include C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbon oils having 16 or more carbon atoms, non-silicone oils, vegetable oils, glycerides (including synthetic triglycerides, including capric/caprylic glycerides), fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, fatty acid ethers, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

The C6-C16 hydrocarbons of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, preferably alkanes. As examples, it is possible to cite the inclusion of nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16), alkane mixtures (e.g. undecane and tridecane), isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane.

Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin (hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms) may be straight or branched. As examples of hydrocarbon oils, paraffin oil, vaseline oil, polydextrose, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalane may be cited.

The vegetable oil may preferably be selected from triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride. Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils include sweet almond oil, macadamia nut oil, hazelnut oil, peanut oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, argan oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, almond oil, sunflower seed oil, olive oil, corn oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, grape seed oil, arabian oil, castor oil, avocado oil, yellow prune oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

Glycerides are esters of glycerol with one (monoglycerides) or more (diglycerides and triglycerides) fatty acids. They may be natural or synthetic. For example, capric/caprylic triglyceride is exemplified.

Alcohols, esters and fatty acids have at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon group containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 26 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

The esters may be selected from optionally hydroxylated fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohol esters. Unlike the triglycerides mentioned above, these esters may be chosen in particular from esters of C1-C26 linear or branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono-or polyacids, and esters of C1-C26 linear or branched saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono-or polyols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohols include octyl dodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, linoleyl lactate, isocetyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl oleate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, methylacetyl ricinoleate, isostearyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, cetyl myristate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isopropyl stearate or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, octyl hydroxystearate, isopropyl lactate, di-isopropyl adipate, dioctyl malate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, 2-hexyl ethyl/2-hexyl caprate (or octyl/octyl caprate), isostearate, isodecyl pivalate, heptanoate (such as isopropyl heptanoate), caprylate (such as cetyl caprylate, tridecyl caprylate).

The fatty acid ether may more particularly be selected from ethers having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. They may be of vegetable origin, for example dioctyl ether.

The silicone oil may be selected from cyclic or acyclic nonvolatile silicone oils, cyclic or acyclic volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. The silicone oil may in particular contain at least one si—o group. In particular, organopolysiloxanes are possible. Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include linear or cyclic cyclomethicones, dimethicones (or PDMS), dimethicones containing alkyl, alkoxy, phenyl, or co-polyol groups, silicone crosslinked polymers, phenylated silicones, dimethicones, diethylpolysiloxanes, C1-C30 hybrid polysiloxanes, dimethiconols, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from dimethicone and methyltrimethylsiloxane, more particularly from dimethicone.

The fluorinated oil may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones, and mixtures thereof.

The oil content of the composition of the invention may be at least 15 wt%, preferably at least 20 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oil content of the composition according to the invention may be up to 50 wt.%, preferably up to 40 wt.%, preferably up to 30 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This is preferred for stability and organoleptic properties of the composition.

The oil content of the composition according to the invention is preferably 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the oil phase of the composition of the invention comprises at least one silicone oil. This has advantages in terms of stability and organoleptic properties.

The silicone oil content of the composition of the invention may be from 3% to 40% by weight, for example from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the silicone oil content of the composition according to the invention may be at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oil phase may also contain other ingredients that are soluble or miscible in the oil, such as solvents, formulations, and/or active ingredients.

Aqueous phase：

The composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water. It may also contain other ingredients that are soluble or miscible in water, such as water-soluble solvents, water-soluble formulations, and/or water-soluble active ingredients.

Within the meaning of the present invention, a "water-soluble solvent" means a compound which is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) and miscible with water (a miscibility with water of more than 50% by weight at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure).

Among the solvents which are soluble or miscible in water, mention may be made, for example, of C1-C4 short-chain mono-alcohols (for example ethanol, isopropanol, 2-ethoxyethanol), preferably diols or polyols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms (for example ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, hexanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the water content of the composition according to the invention is at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 45% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This allows better organoleptic properties and stability of the composition to be obtained.

The water content of the composition according to the invention is at most 70% by weight, preferably at most 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This is preferred for feasibility and stability of the composition.

Fillers and other particles：

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler. Fillers may allow, inter alia, the composition to have additional properties of mattness, hiding power, durability and/or improved stability.

"filler" means any form of solid particles that are dispersed in insoluble form into the medium of the composition. The particles may be colorless, white or colored. They may be of inorganic or organic nature. They allow the composition to be shaped, have softness, mattness and/or uniformity when made up.

The filler used in the composition of the invention may be lamellar, spherical, spherulitic, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these shapes as defined.

The filler according to the invention may be surface coated or uncoated and may in particular be surface treated by a surface treatment agent such as a silicone, an amino acid, a fluorine-containing derivative or any other substance which facilitates the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

As examples of mineral fillers, talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, silica and titanium dioxide composites can be cited.

As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of powders of polyamides, polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene, acrylic copolymers, lauryllysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile hollow microspheres, hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol caprolactone copolymer powders, silicone resin microbeads, synthetic or natural micro powder waxes, polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising copolymers comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. Cellulose powders, such as the celluobads series sold by Daito company, are also possible. Mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins, in particular with silsesquioxane resins, as described, for example, in U.S. patent No. 5 538 793. Such elastomer powders are sold by SHIN ETSU company under the name Mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resins, for example coated with hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, in particular sold by Shin Etsu under the name "KSP-200"; or a phenyl-functionalized hybrid silicone powder, especially sold by Shin Etsu under the name "KSP-300".

Based on the knowledge of the cosmetic product, the person skilled in the art is able to choose the filler to be added to the composition according to the invention and the amount thereof according to the desired characteristics without substantially changing the effects associated with the composition according to the invention.

Other Compounds：

The compositions of the invention may also comprise one or more formulations, in particular active ingredients or conventional cosmetic excipients.

These formulations may be appropriately selected according to the use of the composition of the present invention.

Non-limiting examples of formulations include hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, organic solvents (e.g., alcohols and lower polyols), hydrophilic or lipophilic ionic or nonionic rheological agents (thickeners or gelling agents), softeners, moisturizers, stabilizers, emollients, film forming agents, emulsifiers, surfactants (anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric), fillers (e.g., matte powders, soft-focus active make-up powder, etc.), uv filters (or photoprotective agents, organic and/or inorganic agents, active towards UVA and/or UVB), dyes, chelating agents (chelating agents), alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, fragrances or any other ingredient commonly used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological field. The amounts of these different compounds are conventional amounts in the relevant arts. These compounds may be added to the fat phase or the aqueous phase depending on their nature.

The compositions of the present invention may also comprise at least one active. Among the active substances, there may be mentioned, for example:

-anti-pollution agents and/or anti-radical agents and/or antioxidants (coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone);

-a whitening agent, a pigment-lightening agent;

-an anti-aging agent;

stretching or anti-wrinkling agents, such as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates (e.g. soy protein extracts);

humectants (e.g. polyols such as glycerol);

anti-inflammatory agents (e.g. glycyrrhetinic acid and salts thereof);

-soothing agents (allantoin, bisabolol, blueberry water);

-an antimicrobial or antibacterial agent (e.g. salicylic acid);

-a stretching agent;

-a tightening agent;

vitamins (e.g. retinol or vitamin a, ascorbic acid or vitamin C, tocopherol or vitamin E, nicotinamide or vitamin PP or B3, panthenol or vitamin B5, biotin or vitamin B8 and their derivatives, e.g. esters of these vitamins);

-an essential oil.

Based on the knowledge of cosmetics, the person skilled in the art is able to choose the formulation to be added to the composition according to the invention and the amount thereof according to the desired characteristics without substantially changing the effects associated with the composition according to the invention.

The compositions of the present invention are suitable for cosmetic use. In particular, the compositions of the present invention are suitable for topical application. It can be used, for example, as a skin care product and/or cosmetic product.

The compositions of the invention comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier, that is to say, a carrier compatible with the skin within the meaning of the invention.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at most 5% by weight of surfactant, preferably at most 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at most 4% by weight of surfactant, preferably at most 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In fact, the compositions of the present invention have the advantage of obtaining stable oil-in-water emulsions without the need for high proportions of surfactants and emulsifiers, which are generally more irritating to the skin.

"surfactant" refers to any compound that alters the surface tension between two surfaces of two immiscible aqueous and oil phases. It is an amphiphilic molecule, that is to say having both hydrophilic (polar) and lipophilic (nonpolar) moieties. More specifically, the amphiphilic compound or mixture of amphiphilic compounds mentioned here has emulsifying properties, that is to say the kinetic stability of the emulsion can be improved. The term "surfactant" includes in particular nonionic surfactants and ionic surfactants, such as anionic, cationic and zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "ionic surfactant" refers to any surface-active compound comprising at least one ionic charge. Within the meaning of the present invention, more particularly compounds which ionize in water at a pH value of between 5 and 8. This term includes anionic, cationic or zwitterionic surfactants. These surfactants may more particularly be salts, for example alkali metal salts, such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alkoxides and alkaline earth metal salts.

The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention preferably has a pH value of less than or equal to 8.

Use of the same：

According to another aspect, the invention relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment of the skin.

The composition may have one or more of the features described above.

More particularly, the present invention relates to the use of the composition of the present invention as a foundation.

Preferably, the use relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 7% by weight of pigments and fillers, preferably at least 8% by weight of pigments and fillers, more preferably at least 10% by weight of pigments and fillers, relative to the total weight of the composition. The definition of "pigment" and "filler" is as above. It is noted that oil-in-water compositions having satisfactory properties are more difficult to obtain and stabilize because they contain a large amount of pigments and fillers. However, the inventors propose a combination that not only allows to obtain stable oil-in-water emulsions with high pigment loadings, but also has excellent organoleptic properties. Thus, the compositions of the present invention are useful not only for colored creams, but also for foundations that require good characteristics of higher pigment ratios, extension, hiding, and pot life.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic make-up and/or skin care method comprising at least one step of applying to the skin a composition as defined above.

Examples

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following non-limiting examples. The compounds or starting materials used are named after their INCI name. All percentages given are by mass unless otherwise indicated. The term "sufficient amount" means that the amount should be sufficient to bring the composition to 100% of its final mass.

Example 1: oil-in-water emulsion comprising 12% pigment

Compositions 1 to 8 were prepared according to the procedure described below, in accordance with the percentages given in tables 1 and 2 below. Each composition was also evaluated for appearance, stability over time, and application characteristics.

TABLE 1：

Unlike composition 1 of the present invention, compositions 2 through 5 do not comprise a combination of two specific emulsifiers of the present compositions, namely a combination of an alkyl phosphate compound (e.g., potassium cetyl phosphate) and a polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier (e.g., a compound known by the INCI name PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone). The following evaluation shows that stability is affected when one of the emulsifiers is missing or replaced by another type of emulsifier.

TABLE 2：

Unlike composition 1 of the present invention, compositions 6 to 8 contain other types of pigments other than pigments whose surfaces are specifically treated with a polyoxyalkylene silicone treatment agent. Control compositions 6 and 7 contained phytic acid (hydrophilic compound) coated pigment and silica coated pigment, respectively. Control composition 8 contained surface untreated pigment. The following evaluation shows that the control composition obtained is not homogeneous or that the emulsion is unstable when other types of pigments (either untreated or treated) are used.

In tables 1 and 2 below:

the left column entitled "P" indicates the phase in which the compound is present;

the notations in brackets (beside the INCI name of the compounds or beside the percentages of pigments) indicate the trade names of the raw materials used comprising these compounds. Details of these raw materials are as follows.

(a) AMPHISOL K (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate), sold by DSM company.

(b) KF-6011 (INCI name: PEG-11 methyl ether dimethylpolysiloxane), sold by SHIN-ETSU company.

(c) ARISTOFLEX AVC (INCI name: ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer), sold by the company CLARIANT.

(d) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments coated with ethoxylated silicones are sold by DAITO KASEI under the names PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO.710P (INCI name: CI 77499/iron oxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.211P (INCI name: CI 77491/iron oxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW NO.602P (INCI name: CI 77492/iron oxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone) and PEG12 DM-2 TIO2R 200 (INCI name: CI 77891/titanium dioxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone). Mixtures of black, red, yellow and white pigments are used, depending on the desired and desired final hue. In the composition 1 according to the invention, the following proportions (representing a total proportion of such pigments of 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) are used: 0.21% PEG12 DM-2 BLACK No.710P, 0.37% PEG12 DM-2 RED No.211P, 1.70% PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW No.602P, 9.72% PEG12 DM-2 TIO2R 200.

(e) TEGO CARE PBS 6 (INCI name: polyglycerol-6 stearate (and) polyglycerol-6 behenate), sold by EVONIK Nutrition & Care GmbH,

(f) SIMULSOL 165 (INCI name: glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate), sold by SEPPIC company.

(g) Covacoryl MV60 (INCI name: sodium polyacrylate), sold by SENSIENT COSMETIC TECHNOLOGIES company.

(h) Chione HDDigital Pink S430V (INCI name: CI 77891 (and synthetic fluorophlogopite), sold by BASF corporation.

(i) XIAMETER (R) PMX-1503 FLUID (INCI name: dimethicone (and dimethiconol), sold by DOW CORNING company.

(j) GRANSIL SIW-078 (INCI name: dimethicone (and) polysiloxane-11 (and) Water (and) butanediol (and) decyl glucoside (and) octyl glycol), manufactured by GRANT INDUSTRIES, INC..

(k) SH219 (INCI name: silica (sum) CI 77891/titania), SUNJIN CHEMICAL CO., LTD.

(l) ELEMENT14 PDMS 5-A, manufactured by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS GmbH company.

(m) phytic acid coated iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigment (dispersible in aqueous medium), sold by SENSITENT under the names UNIPURE BLACK LC998 PHY (INCI name: CI 77499 (iron oxide) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), UNIPURE RED LC388 PHY (INCI name: CI 77491 (iron oxide) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide), UNIPURE YELLOW LC PHY (INCI name: CI 77492 (iron oxide) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide) and UNIPURE WHITE LC987 PHY (INCI name: CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) (and) phytic acid (and) sodium hydroxide). A mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, the total percentage of coated pigments being 12% by weight with respect to the total weight of composition 6, according to the need and the desired final shade.

(N) surface silica treated iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigment sold by DAITO KASEI under the name SIH-2 BLACK N°217P (INCI name: CI 77499 (and) silica), SIH-2 RED N°21P (INCI name: CI 77491 (and) silica), SIH-2 YELLOW N°214P (INCI name: CI 77492 (and) silica) and SIH 5 TIO2R 250 (INCI name: CI 77891 (and) silica (and) sodium hydroxide). A mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, the total proportion of treated pigments being 12% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition 7, according to the need and the desired final shade.

(p) iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigment dispersed in a water/glycerol mixture stabilized with xanthan gum (known to have good performance in oil-in-water emulsions), sold by the company sendENT under the name COVARINE BLACK WN 9798 (INCI name: CI 77499 (and) glycerol (and) water (and) sodium citrate), covarone RED WN 3798 (INCI name: CI 77491 (and) glycerol (and) water (and) xanthan (and) sodium citrate), COVARINE YELLOW WN 1798 (INCI name: CI 77492 (and) glycerol (and) water (and) xanthan (and) sodium citrate) and COVARINE WHITE WN 9787 (INCI name: CI 77891 (and) glycerol (and) water (and) xanthan (and) sodium citrate). A mixture of black, red, yellow and white pigments is used, the total pigment content being 11.94% by weight relative to the total weight of composition 8, according to the need and the desired final shade.

(r) Edeta BD, sold by BASF corporation.

(s) Wilfarin EP997, sold by the company WILMAR.

(t) ZEMEA Propanediol, sold by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products.

(u) SENSIVA SC, sold by Schulke France SARL company.

Method of operation of compositions 1 to 7：

Disodium edetate was dissolved in a beaker with stirring to prepare aqueous phase a. Phase a was kept stirring at 250rpm (revolutions per minute) for about 10 minutes with Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device until disodium edetate was dissolved. In addition, phase B was prepared in advance by mixing glycerol, propylene glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol. Phase B was then added to phase a and the whole was stirred at 250rpm for 5 minutes. The aqueous thickener acryl dimethyl taurate copolymer (phase C) was then added to the foregoing aqueous mixture. The speed was gradually increased from 400 to 800rpm and the whole was stirred until it was mixed well. Then, sodium polyacrylate (phase D) was added and stirring was maintained at 1000rpm for 5 minutes, and then the whole was heated to 80-85 ℃ using a heat generating plate. Phase E (alkyl phosphate or mixture of polyglycerol esters if necessary) is added to the hot mixture and stirred at 1000-1200rpm for 10 minutes at 80-85 ℃. Phase F (a mixture of polyoxyalkylenated silicones, or if necessary stearates) is then added to the aqueous hot mixture and kept stirring at 1000rpm for 5 minutes at 80-85 ℃. The fat phase (G phase containing dimethicone) heated to 80 ℃ before was then added to the aqueous phase maintained at 80-85 ℃ with stirring (1500 to 1600 rpm) to make an emulsion. After the emulsion was formed, stirring (1500 rpm) was maintained for 10 minutes at 80-85℃throughout. The heat-generating plate was then taken with stirring (1100 rpm) at all times to cool the mixture. When the mixture reached 50 ℃, pigment (H phase) was added and the whole was mixed well with stirring at 2000rpm for 10 minutes. Phase I (a mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol) was then added to the mixture and maintained at 1100rpm for 5 minutes. Phase J (a mixture of small amounts of water and premix GRANSIL SIW-078) was then added and stirring was maintained at 1100rpm for 3 minutes. Once the mixture reaches 40 ℃, the fragrance (phase K) is added and stirring is maintained at 1100rpm for 3 minutes. Thereby obtaining a composition for foundation.

Method of operation of composition 8：

In this method of operation, the pigment used is in the form of a ready-to-use dispersion of iron oxide or titanium dioxide particles in a water/glycerol mixture. The italic percentages given in table 2 take into account the total percentage of these components in the final composition (glycerol and part of the water are provided by the commercial dispersion of the pigment used).

In this procedure, disodium edentate was dissolved in water at 43.82% with stirring to prepare aqueous phase a. The phase a was kept stirred at 250rpm with Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device. Phase B was prepared beforehand by mixing propylene glycol and ethylhexyl glycerol. The B phase was then added to the a phase and the whole was stirred at 250rpm for 5 minutes. To this aqueous mixture was added a ready-to-use pigment dispersion (H phase): a total of 23.88 wt% of the dispersion was added, 11.94 wt% of pigment (relative to the total weight of the final composition) and 5.97 wt% of glycerol (relative to the total weight of the final composition). All materials were kept stirring at 400rpm for 5 minutes. C, D, E, F, G, I, J and K phases were then added following the same procedure as previously described for compositions 1 to 7. Thereby obtaining a composition for foundation.

Evaluation and observation：

Stability(s)：

The stability of the above composition was studied after preparation and after storage for 3 months at 40℃under accelerated conditions (in an incubator).

The compositions were evaluated by sensory analysis (appearance, color and smell). The overall appearance was evaluated by the naked eye and by microscopy (Olinbas BH2 model 10x microscope) to control color, surface, possible precipitation, phase separation, deposition or agglomeration phenomena, and possible precipitations, phase shifts or snail lines. The odor was compared to a control composition (stored at 20 ℃ C. Or in a refrigerator protected from light). The results are set forth in table 3 below, with the following designations used:

c=pass (no instability phenomenon)

Cn=non-compliance (there are unstable phenomena such as emulsion break, mixture non-uniformity, etc.).

Table 3:

unlike the compositions of the present invention, compositions 2 to 8 do not have a satisfactory appearance allowing good application and uniform cosmetic effect to be achieved. The results show that the combination of specific ingredients according to the invention allows to obtain a composition with a uniform pigment distribution. Unlike the control composition, the composition of the present invention also has excellent stability over time. In fact, the composition 1 of the present invention is stable under the acceleration conditions generally employed in cosmetics, to ensure stability over time, for example 3 months at 40 ℃. Here, composition 1 is also stable under more severe conditions, for example, in an incubator at 50 ℃ for 1 month.

Sensory properties：

Five panelists evaluated the texture and sensory properties of the foundations obtained with composition 1 of the present invention, and included, among others, softness, non-tacky effect, application freshness, silkiness, pot life (play-time), hiding power, and film formation uniformity.

Composition 1 of the present invention has a soft, fine, non-tacky and non-greasy feel to the touch. In addition, the texture is light and has no heavy feel.

Surprisingly, the composition 1 according to the invention combines a good application freshness, a very ductile and good silky feel, a sufficiently long pot life and a good hiding power. In particular, the composition of the invention allows to obtain a uniform makeup without highlighting defects of the skin (for example pores or fine lines). Thus, the compositions of the present invention combine a refreshing effect with good organoleptic properties as well as good color and spread uniformity.

Example 2: an oil-in-water emulsion comprising 7.5% pigment and filter.

Make-up and sunscreen compositions 9 to 12 were prepared according to the procedure described below, in accordance with the percentages given in table 4 below. These compositions all provide high sun protection against UVA and UVB (SPF 30) by a UV hybrid filter system comprising an inorganic UV filter (silica coated titanium dioxide) and an organic UV filter (Ensulizole, INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; octyl salicylate, INCI name ethylhexyl salicylate; salix-ing homosalate; octocrylene). These compositions were also evaluated in terms of appearance, stability over time and application characteristics according to the conditions of example 1.

TABLE 4 Table 4：

In Table 4 above, the notations in brackets (beside the INCI name of the compound) refer to the starting materials used, the details of which are as follows:

(a) AMPHISOL K (INCI name: potassium cetyl phosphate), sold by DSM company.

(b) KF-6011 (INCI name: PEG-11 methyl ether dimethylpolysiloxane), sold by SHIN-ETSU company.

(c) ARISTOFLEX AVC (INCI name: ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer), sold by the company CLARIANT.

(d) Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments coated with ethoxylated silicones are sold by DAITO KASEI under the names PEG12 DM-2 BLACK NO.710P (INCI name: CI 77499/iron oxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 RED NO.211P (INCI name: CI 77491/iron oxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone), PEG12 DM-2 YELLOWNO.602P (INCI name: CI 77492/iron oxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone) and PEG12 DM-2 TIO2R 200 (INCI name: CI 77891/titanium dioxide (and) PEG-12 dimethicone). Mixtures of black, red, yellow and white pigments are used, depending on the desired and desired final hue. In the composition 1 according to the invention, the following proportions (representing a total proportion of such pigments of 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) are used: 0.21% PEG12 DM-2 BLACK No.710P, 0.37% PEG12 DM-2 RED No.211P, 1.70% PEG12 DM-2 YELLOW No.602P, 9.72% PEG12 DM-2 TIO2R 200.

(i) XIAMETER (R) PMX-1503 FLUID (INCI name: dimethicone (and dimethiconol), sold by DOW CORNING company.

(l) ELEMENT14 PDMS 5-A, manufactured by MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS GmbH company.

(q) inorganic filters (silica and dimethicone coated titanium dioxide particles), sold by DSM company under the nameTX (INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) silicon dioxide (and) dimethicone).

(r) Edeta BD, sold by BASF corporation.

(s) Wilfarin EP997, sold by the company WILMAR.

(t) ZEMEA Propanediol, sold by DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products.

(u) SENSIVA SC, sold by Schulke France SARL company.

(w)NeoHydro, SYMRISE AG company.

(x)NeoOS, sold by SYMRISE AG.

(y)NeoHMS, sold by SYMRISE AG.

(z)Neo303 sold by symbrie AG.

Method of operation of compositions 9 to 12:

disodium edetate was dissolved in a beaker with stirring to prepare aqueous phase a. Phase a was kept stirring at 250rpm (revolutions per minute) for about 10 minutes with Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device until disodium edetate was dissolved. Then, tromethamine (phase B) was added to make the mixture alkaline, and phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (phase C) was added, with agitation at all times with Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device. Stirring was maintained until dissolved. In addition, phase D is prepared by mixing glycerol, propylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, and phenoxyethanol. Phase D was then added to the previous aqueous mixture (a+b+c) and the whole was still stirred with Rayneri equipped with deflocculating device. The aqueous thickener acryl dimethyl taurate copolymer (E phase) was then added to the aforementioned aqueous mixture. The speed was gradually increased from 400 to 800rpm and the whole was stirred until it was mixed well. Alkyl phosphate compounds (F phase for compositions 9, 10 and 11) were added to the foregoing mixture with agitation of Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device, if necessary. Then, if necessary, a polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier (G phase for compositions 9, 10 and 12) was added with agitation by Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device. In addition, the preparation of the H phase involved mixing ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate salt, octocrylene, inorganic UV filter and dimethicone with agitation by Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device. The H phase was then added to the aforementioned aqueous mixture with agitation by Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device, and the emulsion obtained was stirred for 5 minutes. Pigment (phase I) was then added and the whole was mixed for 5 minutes with agitation by Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating device. In the case of composition 12 (emulsion after addition of fatty phase is heterogeneous and not smooth), phase J (mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol) is added to the aforesaid mixture and kept stirring for 5 minutes. Thereby obtaining a composition for foundation.

Results：

Unlike composition 9 of the present invention, control composition 11 did not contain a polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier (PEG-11 methyl ether dimethylpolysiloxane). Evaluation showed that after 24 hours of storage, composition 11 had a lower apparent brightness, a darker shade, and a less uniform (caking) than composition 9 of the present invention.

Unlike composition 10 of the present invention, control composition 12 does not contain an alkyl phosphate compound (potassium cetyl phosphate). Evaluation showed that after 24 hours of storage, the stability of composition 12 was affected by a non-smooth appearance and uneven emulsion.

Furthermore, the evaluation of the sensory properties revealed that control composition 11, while easy to apply and having a dry feel after 5 minutes (quick-drying), had a sticky texture and highlighted pores. It also has a coarser feel (no silkiness, softness when the finger passes).

The composition 10 of the present invention combines a good fresh feel with a lighter and thinner appearance than the composition 12. It is also less sticky, less rough, lighter and thinner on the skin and longer in duration.

The composition 9 of the present invention combines a refreshing effect with good color and spread uniformity.

In summary, the combination of ingredients according to the invention allows to obtain a homogeneous and stable over time oil-in-water composition, even at high pigment contents, while combining good application freshness (characteristics of oil-in-water emulsions) with extensibility characteristics comparable to those of water-in-oil emulsions, in particular good silkiness, long enough working times and uniform make-up, with good hiding power, without forming lumps and without highlighting skin imperfections (pores or fine lines).

Claims (16)

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and comprising:

a) At least one alkyl phosphate emulsifier;

b) At least one polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier;

c) At least one aqueous thickener selected from polymers having sulfonic acid units; and

d) At least one pigment, the surface of which is treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the alkyl phosphate emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of cetyl phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetylstearyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the alkyl phosphate emulsifier is in the form of an alkali metal salt, preferably a potassium salt.

4. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier has an HLB of greater than or equal to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 11, more preferably greater than or equal to 13.

5. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated silicone emulsifier is selected from dimethyl ether derived from dimethylpolysiloxane.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous thickener is in the form of a copolymer comprising acryloyldimethyltaurinic acid units, preferably an ammonium salt.

7. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous thickener is a copolymer of acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid and vinyl pyrrolidone.

8. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment is a mineral pigment iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

9. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one pigment is a colored pigment.

10. The cosmetic composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment is a polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane.

11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of pigment of which the surface is treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment is at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of pigment of which the surface is treated with a polyoxyalkylenated silicone treatment is at least 7 wt%, preferably at least 8 wt%, more preferably 10 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil phase comprises at least one silicone oil.

14. Cosmetic composition according to claim 12, wherein the silicone oil content is at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water content is at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims for skin make-up, preferably for foundations.