WO2022162613A1 - Procédé de fabrication de tissus élastiques améliorés et tissus élastiques ainsi fabriqués - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication de tissus élastiques améliorés et tissus élastiques ainsi fabriqués Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022162613A1
WO2022162613A1 PCT/IB2022/050770 IB2022050770W WO2022162613A1 WO 2022162613 A1 WO2022162613 A1 WO 2022162613A1 IB 2022050770 W IB2022050770 W IB 2022050770W WO 2022162613 A1 WO2022162613 A1 WO 2022162613A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
winding
turns
core
wound
Prior art date
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PCT/IB2022/050770
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English (en)
Inventor
Paolo Benelli
Original Assignee
Paolo Benelli
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Paolo Benelli filed Critical Paolo Benelli
Priority to EP22705888.0A priority Critical patent/EP4284971A1/fr
Priority to CN202280012236.XA priority patent/CN116829776A/zh
Publication of WO2022162613A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022162613A1/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/322—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using hollow spindles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/326—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic the elastic properties due to the construction rather than to the use of elastic material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/362—Cored or coated yarns or threads using hollow spindles

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for making elasticised fabrics that can be disposed more easily than conventional elasticized fabrics, and to elasticized fabrics made by such method.
  • the invention relates to a method for making biodegradable fabrics consisting of biodegradable materials that can be disposed, for instance, by composting, and to elasticized fabrics made by such method.
  • the invention also relates to elasticized yarns to be used for making such fabrics
  • the features of currently-available elasticized fabrics depend on the high elasticity of the elasticized yarns used to make them.
  • the elasticity of the elasticized yarns depends in turn on the use of a core elastomeric fibres in combination with covering yarns that are wrapped or form turns about the core elastomeric fibre and that can consist of various textile materials.
  • documents WO 2008/130563 A1 and WO 2012/062480 A2 describe ring spun elastic composite yarns, in which an elastic core filament made of a synthetic elastomeric material is surrounded by a fibrous sheath consisting of a mass of synthetic or natural spun staple fibres, for instance cotton fibres.
  • Other elasticized yarns as those described in WO 2012/056436 and in WO 2019/159155, are obtained by winding machines, in which a substantially inextensible yarn is wound about the elastic core filament made of a synthetic elastomeric material to form a helix or a spiral about the elastic yarn.
  • these fabrics comprise an elastomeric portion and a fibrous portion of various materials. This heterogeneity makes it difficult to recycle the articles made of these fabrics when they are dismissed, since the two types of material should be separately recycled by specific techniques.
  • the fibrous sheath or the inextensible yarn wound about the core is made of a natural, tendentially biodegradable material, such as linen; hemp; ramie; bamboo; jute; cotton; wool; silk, the presence of the synthetic elastomeric portion, i.e. of a non-biodegradable portion, exclude composting as a possible disposal method for the items of clothing and similar textile products made of a related fabric, which would be one of the most preferred cheap and environment-friendly disposal methods known so far for such items.
  • the above-mentioned elasticised fabrics are scarcely environmentally sustainable and do not meet the requirements of a circular economy.
  • a method for making an elasticized fabric comprises the steps of:
  • the core yarn is a non-elastomeric yarn
  • the step of winding is carried out in such a way that the winding yarn forms a sequence of turns about the core yarn, the turns having a pitch longer than a diameter of the winding yarn, in such a way that free spaces are left between the turns;
  • the pulling force that is applied to the core yarn is lower than a minimum predetermined force value selected in such a way that the core yarn forms a sequence of ridges protruding between the free spaces
  • the conveying speeds are selected in such a way that, in the winding step, a number of turns T higher than a predetermined minimum number of turns To, and lower than a predetermined minimum number of turns Ti of the winding yarn is wound per length unit of the wound yarn, the minimum number of turns To and the maximum number of turns Ti depending on the second linear mass density Nm w , wherein, for each value of the second linear mass density Nm w indicated in a respective line of the following table the minimum and maximum number of turns To, Ti are the numbers written in the respective line and in the columns headed by To and Ti of the table, respectively.
  • wound can relate to either a very loose winding conformation, in which a wide space (pitch) is present between subsequent turns, or a tighter conformation, in which said space is narrower, provided some space is left between subsequent turns.
  • the number of turns per meter of a wound yarn is meant as the number of turns that can be directly counted as the number of reverse turns that a piece of that wound yarn having a predetermined length should receive in order to completely remove the turns therefrom, such piece of yarn arranged between two fixed end points and having with a predetermined initial tensile strain.
  • the predetermined length and tensile strain are selected according to ISO rules 2061.
  • the winding step is carried by reversing the twist direction of the winding yarn, the winding yarn and the core yarn will have twist directions opposite to each other in the wound yarn.
  • the shrunk wound yarn has inner opposite reaction forces between the winding yarn and the core yarn. This causes an intrinsic elasticity, such that, upon stretching the fabric, and then releasing it, the latter performs an elastic return.
  • the wound yarn will be inherently resistant to any further twisting action. Therefore, a balanced fabric, which would be more difficult to obtain in the case of a wound yarn in which the core yarn and the winding yarn have the same twist direction, in particular, if the wound yarn is intended to make fabrics by knitting. The dimensional stability and the regularity of the articles made by such a fabric will be improved.
  • the winding yarn can have an initial “Z”-twist direction, as usual in the yarns available on market, and the step of winding is carried out with a clockwise or counter-clockwise winding direction, so that the winding yarn, while being wound about the core yarn, is countertwisted to such an extent to completely loose its initial “Z”-twist direction and to become twisted in the opposite “S”-twist direction, until a final twisting degree is attained depending on the final number of turns formed about the core yarn.
  • the winding yarn as prearranged, can have an initial “S”-twist direction and the step of winding is carried out in such a way that the winding yarn, while being wound about the core yarn, is countertwisted to such an extent to completely loose its initial “S”-twist direction and to become twisted in the opposite “Z”-twist direction, until a final twisting degree is attained depending on the final number of coils formed about the core yarn.
  • the step of winding were carried out in such a way to increase the torsions in the initial “Z” or “S”-twist direction, the resulting winding would be too "tight” to allow any elasticity to arise in the wound yarn, or the wound yarn would soon become tight enough to break before a desired number of coils is formed about the core yarn.
  • the linear mass density Nm (here Nm c and Nm w ) of a yarn or of a filament corresponds to the length in kilometres of 1 kg of wire or of yarn or filament, and can therefore be expressed in km/kg.
  • the winding yarn and the core yarn have, independently from one another, a linear mass density set between 1 and 120 km/kg.
  • pulling force F applied to the core yarn is higher than a predetermined minimum force Fo.
  • a poor tensioning of the core yarn would make it substantially impossible for the winding yarn to be wound about the core yarn.
  • the pulling force applied to the core yarn must exceed a minimum value in order to assure uniform features to the wound yarns obtained by the multiple winding units of a same winding machine.
  • the predetermined minimum force depends on the linear mass density of the core yarn.
  • the minimum force Fo is equal to the force value Fo written in the same line of table 1 , expressed in grams, whereas, for values intermediate between two adjacent values of the first linear mass density Nm c indicated in respective adjacent lines of table 1 , the minimum force Fo can be obtained by linearly interpolating the force values Fo written in the same adjacent lines of table 1 .
  • pulling force F applied to the core yarn is lower than a predetermined maximum force Fi . If a pulling force is applied to the core yarn exceeding the above maximum force value, the core yarn would remain stiff and linear during and after the winding step, instead of forming the ridges, as previously described. For this reason, neither the wound yarn obtained in these conditions, nor a fabric made therefrom, would be able to behave elastically when stretched. For the same reason, the above-mentioned spacing effect of the ridges on the turns of the wound yarn would be missing, and the low-friction and high heat and moisture transfer properties of the fabrics would be lost, along with the pleasant and fresh touch feel provided to the users wearing garments made of such fabrics.
  • the maximum force Fi is equal to the force value Fi, expressed in grams, written in the same line of table 2.
  • the maximum force Fi is obtained by linearly interpolating the force values Fi written in the same adjacent lines of table 2.
  • the conveying speeds of the core yarn and of the winding yarn are selected in such a way that the number of turns T per length unit of the yarn is higher than a predetermined minimum number of turns To.
  • the minimum number of turns To is equal to the number To written in the same line of table 3.
  • the minimum number of turns To is obtained by linearly interpolating the numbers To written in the same adjacent lines of table 3.
  • the conveying speeds of the core yarn and of the winding yarn are selected in such a way that the number of turns T per length unit of the yarn is lower than a predetermined maximum number of turns Ti. If a number of turns of the winding yarn is wound exceeding the above maximum number, the portions of core yarn between any two adjacent ridges, protruding between respective couples of turns, would be too short to allow an overall elongation I an elastic return of the wound yarn upon stretching/releasing the same, and therefore the wound yarn, as well as the fabric made thereof, would have poor elastic properties even once the washing step has been performed.
  • the maximum number of turns Ti is equal to the number Ti written in the same line of the table, whereas, for values intermediate between two values of the second linear mass density Nm indicated in respective adjacent lines of the table, the maximum number of turns Ti is obtained by linearly interpolating the numbers Ti written in the same adjacent lines of table 4.
  • the step of washing comprises a step of open-width washing or rope washing the fabric in water, in particular the step of washing is carried out in such conditions and during such a washing time that the fabric shrinks by 15% to 30%.
  • the core yarn and the winding yarn are made of a natural fibre or an artificial fibre, or a combination of a natural fibre and an artificial fibre.
  • synthetic fibres such as nylon, polyester, acrylic fibres
  • the fabric ant the articles made thereof will be more easily degradable by exposition to the environment, in particular by composting.
  • the natural fibre used to manufacture the wound yarn can be selected from the group consisting of: linen; hemp; ramie; bamboo; jute; cotton; wool; silk; a combination of the above fibres.
  • the artificial fibre used to manufacture the wound yarn can be selected from the group consisting of: Rayon, Tencel, Lyocel, milk fibres, orange fibres, nettle fibres, kapok fibres, all biodegradable materials, and a combination of the above fibres.
  • the core yarn and the winding yarn have the same composition. This way, the fabric obtained is completely homogeneous, and can be disposed even more easily, according to the prescriptions for one kind of material.
  • the winding yarn is a discontinuous yarn
  • the wrapping space is a protected space enclosed in a container.
  • This is the case of natural fibres and most artificial fibres such as Rayon.
  • the cohesion between the fibres, and therefore the resistance of the discontinuous yarn made thereof is mainly provided by a twisting process, the friction of the winding yarn with air.
  • the discontinuous winding yarn after losing its initial twist direction, e.g., “Z”, and before becoming twisted in the opposite final twist direction, e.g. “S”, crosses an untwisted condition in which the cohesion of the discontinuous fibres forming the yarn is very poor or absent.
  • the friction between the fibres and the air is minimized, which prevents the risk of desegregating the discontinuous winding yarn when instantaneously untwisted, as described above.
  • the core yarn and the winding yarn can be, independently from each other, a one-filament yarn or a multi-filament yarn.
  • the core yarn can be a two-filament yarn, wherein one filament is made of cashmere and the other filament is made of silk, whereas the winding yarn is made of linen or, in a similar but cheaper structure, the core yarn can be a two-filament yarn, wherein one filament is made of wool and the other filament is made of Rayon, whereas the winding yarn is made of hemp.
  • the step of conveying comprises: — steps of causing the core yarn and the winding yarn to pass through a longitudinal recess and along a side surface of a cylindrical hollow body turning at a predetermined speed, respectively, the longitudinal recess having an inlet and an outlet for the core yarn;
  • the step of prearranging the core includes a step of prearranging a first bobbin containing the winding core yarn, while the step of prearranging the winding yarn includes a step of mounting a second bobbin or spool containing the winding yarn coaxially to a cylindrical hollow body.
  • the step of conveying the core includes a step of pulling the core yarn from the first bobbin by a predetermined pulling force and at a predetermined unwinding speed equal to said conveying speed, before conveying it into a central through hole of the cylindrical hollow body.
  • the step of conveying also includes a step of applying a pulling force to the core at the outlet of the orifice, winding yarn being wound, and of collecting the wound yarn on a third collecting bobbin.
  • the method can be actuated by a conventional hollow-spindle machine, such as a Hamel-type machine. If a discontinuous winding yarn is used, the machine will be preferably equipped with a protected wrapping space enclosed in a container.
  • An alternative method for making an elasticized fabric includes the steps of:
  • the core yarn is a non-elastomeric yarn
  • the winding yarn forms a sequence of turns about the core yarn, the turns having a pitch longer than a diameter of the winding yarn, in such a way that free spaces are left between the turns;
  • the core yarn and the winding yarn are twisted with a respective twist directions opposite to each other;
  • the pulling force that is applied to the core yarn is lower than a predetermined force value (Fi) selected in such a way that the core yarn forms a sequence of ridges protruding between the free spaces, such that, by the washing step, the wound yarn shrinks in such a way that the ridges of the core yarn are compressed between the turns of the winding yarn causing the wound yarn, which is incorporated in the fabric, to become elastic and, therefore, causing also the fabric to become elastic, wherein the conveying speeds (vi, V2) are selected in such a way that, in the winding step, a number of turns T,
  • the elasticized yarn comprises:
  • the core yarn is a non-elastomeric yarn
  • the winding yarn forms a sequence of turns about the core yarn, the turns having a pitch (p) longer than a diameter (d) of the winding yarn, in such a way that free spaces are left between the turns;
  • the core yarn and the winding yarn are twisted with a respective twist directions opposite to each other;
  • the minimum number of turns and maximum number of turns depending on the second linear mass density Nm wherein, for each value of the second linear mass density Nm indicated in a respective line of the table below the numbers of minimum and maximum turns To, Ti are the numbers written in the respective line and in the columns respectively headed To and Ti of the table.
  • the minimum and maximum number of turns TO, T1 are obtained by linearly interpolating the numbers, respectively, written in the respective lines and in the columns headed by TO and T1 , respectively, of the table.
  • the core thread and the winding thread are obtained from a fibre selected between a natural fibre and a fibre artificial, or a combination of a natural fibre and an artificial fibre.
  • the natural fibre is selected from linen; hemp; ramie; bamboo; jute; cotton; wool; silk; a combination of the above.
  • the artificial fibre is selected from the group comprised of: Rayon, Tencel, Lyocel, milk, orange, nettle, kapok fibres, a combination of the above.
  • the core thread is a two-ply thread of cashmere and silk respectively, while the winding thread is of linen.
  • the core thread is a two-ply thread of wool and viscose respectively, while the winding thread is of hemp.
  • Figs. 1 A and 1 B diagrammatically illustrates the step winding the winding yarn about the core yarn so as to obtain the wound yarn
  • Fig. 2 diagrammatically shows a hollow spindle twisting machine to form the wound yarn in the process for manufacturing an elasticized fabric
  • Fig. 3 diagrammatically shows a wound yarn in an extended condition, as collected on a collecting bobbin
  • Fig.4 diagrammatically shows the yarn of Fig. 4, in a non-extended condition
  • Fig. 5 is a diagram showing the minimum and maximum values of the pulling force applied to the core yarn, plotted against the first linear mass density Nm c of the core yarn;
  • Fig. 6 is a diagram showing the minimum number of turns per length unit of the wound yarn, plotted against the second linear mass density Nm w of the winding yarn.
  • the method according to the invention comprises a step of making a wound yarn by winding a winding yarn 40 having a second linear mass density Nm w and an initial twist direction “Z” (Fig. 1 A) or “S” (Fig. 1 B), about a core yarn 30 having a first linear mass density Nm c and an initial twist direction “Z” (Fig. 1 A) or “S” (Fig. 1 B), respectively, i.e., the same twist direction as winding yarn 40.
  • core yarn 30 is a non- elastomeric yarn, or in any case a substantially inextensible yarn, i.e. a yarn having an ultimate elongation of 5% or lower.
  • the initial twist direction of winding yarn 40 is “Z”, as well as initial twist direction of core yarn 30, as normally available on market (Fig. 1 A).
  • a predetermined pulling force F is applied to core yarn 30, preferably as described more in detail hereinafter.
  • steps are carried out of conveying core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40 at speeds vi, V2, respectively, towards a wrapping space 35, where winding yarn 40 laterally i.e. tangentially reaches core yarn 30, a predetermined angle a being formed between an axis of core yarn 30 and an axis of winding yarn 40.
  • Angle a is selected in such a way that a sequence of turns 45 is formed about core yarn 30 in which turns 45 are arranged at a pitch p with respect to each other, wherein pitch p is longer than diameter d of winding yarn 40, preferably longer than a predetermined number of times the diameter d. This number of times is preferably set between 1 and 8, more preferably between 2 and 5. This way, free spaces 55 are left between turns 45 whose width depends on pitch p and diameter d of winding yarn 40.
  • Pulling force F applied to core yarn 30 is selected in such a way that core yarn 30 is not excessively stretched, i.e. in such a way that core yarn 30, due to and during the operation of winding, forms a sequence of ridges 31 that tends to protrude through free spaces 55 between turns 45 of winding yarn 40 already wound about core yarn 30.
  • conveying speeds vi and V2 are selected in such a way that, during the winding step, the twist direction of winding yarn 40 changes, turning from “Z” to “S” (Fig. 1 A) or vice-versa (Fig. 1 B), according to the initial twist direction of winding yarn 40 in use.
  • the method for making the elasticized fabric also comprises a step of forming the fabric from wound yarn 50 that can be a substantially conventional process of knitting or weaving, or the like.
  • a step is also provided of washing the yarn or the fabric, in the latter case an open-width washing step or a rope washing step, which is carried out during or before a step of dyeing the yarn or the fabric.
  • the step of washing can be carried out both on wound yarn 50 and on fabric 60, the latter being typically the case of the fabrics manufactured by a process of weaving.
  • Fig. 3 diagrammatically shows wound yarn 50 as collected on a collecting bobbin, i.e., in an.
  • yarns 30,40 forming the structure of wound yarn 50 i.e., core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40, are twisted in the opposite twist directions in wound yarn 50. Due to the washing, wound yarn 50 shrinks, as shown in Fig. 4, and ridges 31 of core yarn 30 are compressed between turns 45 of winding yarn 40, so wound yarn 50 is brought from extended condition A of Fig. 3, in which a same piece of wound yarn 50 has a length LA to the non-extended condition B of Fig. 4, in which a same piece of wound yarn 50 has a length LB shorter than LA.
  • shrunk wound yarn 50 Due to the opposite twist direction of core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40, shrunk wound yarn 50 has inner opposite reaction forces between winding yarn 40 and core yarn 30. This causes an intrinsic elasticity, such that, upon stretching a fabric containing wound yarn 50 (Fig. 3), and then releasing it (Fig. 4), wound yarn 50 performs an elastic return. This way, the step of washing, carried out on both wound yarn 50 and on fabric 60, generates or increases an elasticity of wound yarn 50 incorporated in fabric 60 and, accordingly, generates or increases the elasticity of fabric 60.
  • any elasticized yarn according to the third aspect of the invention in which, i.a., core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40, are twisted in the opposite twist directions in the wound yarn.
  • core yarn 30 does not contain any elastomeric materials, which is the case, instead, in the yarns used for making conventional elasticized fabrics, core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40, independently from each other, can contain any textile material. However, core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40 can have the same composition.
  • core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40 can contain natural fibres such as hemp, ramie, bamboo, jute, cotton, wool, silk, etc., or combinations thereof.
  • core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40 can contain artificial fibres, such as Rayon, Tencel, Lyocel, milk fibres, orange fibres, nettle fibres, kapok fibres and so on, or combinations thereof.
  • artificial fibres such as Rayon, Tencel, Lyocel, milk fibres, orange fibres, nettle fibres, kapok fibres and so on, or combinations thereof.
  • core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40 regardless of their combination and of their linear mass densities Nm c , Nm w , are wires twisted with the same initial twist direction “Z” or “S”, with the above-mentioned advantages.
  • core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40 are selected, independently from each other, between a one-filament yarn and a multi-filament yarn.
  • core yarn 30 is a a two-filament yarn, wherein one filament is made of cashmere and the other filament is made of silk, whereas winding yarn 40 is made of linen.
  • core yarn 30 is a two-filament yarn, wherein one filament is made of wool and the other filament is made of Rayon, whereas winding yarn 40 is made of hemp.
  • the pulling force applied to core yarn 30 is preferably higher than a predetermined minimum force value Fo, so that core yarn 30 is stretched enough for winding yarn 40 to be easily wound about it, and to assure uniform features to the wound yarns obtained by the multiple winding units of a same winding machine.
  • the pulling force applied to core yarn 30 is lower than a predetermined maximum force value Fi tat should not be exceeded that should not be exceeded in order not to lose the low-friction and high heat and moisture transfer properties of the fabrics, along with the pleasant and fresh touch feel provided to the users wearing garments made of such fabrics, and in order to obtain acceptable elastic properties of wound yarn 50, as the experience has shown.
  • Minimum and maximum values Fo, Fi of the pulling force depend on first linear mass density Nm c of core yarn 40, as tables 1 and 2 show.
  • minimum pulling force value Fo and maximum pulling force value Fi are plotted against first linear mass density Nm c of core yarn 40 as curves 71 and 72, respectively.
  • Curves 71 and 72 are obtained by interpolating the values of tables 1 and 2, respectively.
  • conveying speeds vi and V2 are selected in such a way that, in the winding step, the number of turns formed by winding yarn 40 about core yarn 30 per length unit of wound yarn 50 is higher than a predetermined minimum number of turns To, in order to make the stack of turns compact enough to create an elastic return force upon releasing a pulling force acting on it, and to avoid uneven winding conditions among the parallel winding units of a winding machine.
  • the number of turns formed by winding yarn 40 about core yarn 30 per length unit of wound yarn 50 is preferably lower than a predetermined maximum number of turns Ti that should not be exceeded in order not to lose the low-friction and high heat and moisture transfer properties of the fabrics, along with the pleasant and fresh touch feel provided to the users wearing garments made of such fabrics, and in order to obtain acceptable elastic properties of wound yarn 50, as the experience has shown.
  • Minimum and maximum number of turns To, Ti depend on second linear mass density Nm w of winding yarn 40, as tables 3 and 4 show.
  • minimum number of turns To and maximum number of turns T 1 are plotted against second linear mass density Nm w of winding yarn 40 as curves 81 and 82, respectively.
  • Curves 81 and 82 are obtained by interpolating the values of tables 3 and 4, respectively.
  • the steps of conveying core yarn 30 and covering yarn 40 are controlled by the speed by which wound yarn 50 is collected on collecting bobbin 51 of wound yarn 50, while, as a consequence, core yarn 30 and winding yarn 40 are drawn from respective spools, not shown and 41 , respectively.
  • the step of conveying core yarn 30 towards wrapping space 35 is carried out through a central hole 63 of a first cylindrical body 61 turning at a predetermined high speed about its own axis 63’, i.e., core yarn 30 is conveyed along a substantially linear path.
  • the step of conveying winding yarn 40 is carried out along the outer surface 62 of first cylindrical body 61 , preferably along a guide arranged thereon.
  • first cylindrical body 61 is integrally and coaxially housed in a second hollow cylindrical body 64, cylindrical bodies 61 ,64 forming a conveying unit 60.
  • Bobbin 41 of covering yarn 40 is fixed inside second cylindrical body 64, therefore covering yarn 40 is conveyed through a gap 65 between bobbin 41 and the outer surface of first cylindrical body 61.
  • wrapping space 35 is a space normally closed, i.e. a protected space, in order to limit the interaction of the involved material, in particular of winding yarn 40, with the surrounding air.
  • wrapping space 35 is defined between the outlet end 69 of first cylindrical body 61 , at which core 30 enters into wrapping space 35, and an orifice 66 preferably arranged on axis 63’, through which wound yarn 50 leaves wrapping space 35 and is conveyed towards collecting bobbin 51.
  • the protection of wrapping space 35 is made by a preferably axisymmetric wall 67 that converges from the inner surface of second cylindrical hollow body 64 to orifice 66, thus forming a container, which is an outlet passageway of wound yarn 50 from wrapping space 35.
  • Fig. 4 is a diagram showing the predetermined minimum number of turns TO that must be wrapped per length unit of elastic core yarn 50, for each value of second linear mass density Nm w of covering yarn 40, as a curve 81 .
  • Curve 81 is obtained by interpolating the values of table 3.
  • the diagram of Fig. 6 also shows a curve 82 indicating, for each value of second linear mass density Nm w of covering yarn 40, predetermined maximum number of turns Ti wrapped per length unit of elastic core yarn 50 that should not be exceeded in order to obtain acceptable elastic properties of wound yarn 50, as the experience has shown. Curve 82 is obtained by interpolating the values of table 4.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

Afin de fabriquer un tissu élastique, un procédé comprend les étapes consistant à : fabriquer un fil enroulé (50), un fil d'âme (30) et un fil d'enroulement (40), étant de préférence et indépendamment l'un de l'autre, choisis parmi : des fibres artificielles, par exemple de la rayonne ; des fibres naturelles telles que le lin, le chanvre, la ramie, le bambou, le jute, le coton, la laine, la soie ; mais aussi synthétiques telles que le nylon, le polyester, l'acrylique, etc ; tendre le fil d'âme (30) par une force de traction prédéterminée ; transporter le fil d'âme (30) et le fil d'enroulement (40), de manière à ce que ce dernier atteigne latéralement le premier dans un espace d'enroulement (35), en sélectionnant la vitesse de transport ; enrouler le fil d'enroulement (40) autour du fil d'âme (30) dans un espace d'enroulement (35) de telle sorte que, en étant enroulé, dans ledit fil enroulé (50), ledit fil d'âme (30) et ledit fil d'enroulement (40) sont torsadés avec des directions de torsion respectives opposées l'une à l'autre, et ledit fil d'enroulement (40) forme un nombre de tours T supérieur à un nombre minimal prédéterminé de tours T0, et inférieur à un nombre maximal prédéterminé de tours T1 dudit fil d'enroulement (40) par unité de longueur dudit fil enroulé (50), ledit nombre minimal de tours et ledit nombre maximal de tours dépendant d'une dite seconde masse volumique linéaire Nm ; fabriquer un tissu par un procédé de tricotage ou un procédé de tissage ; laver le fil (50) et/ou le tissu.
PCT/IB2022/050770 2021-01-28 2022-01-28 Procédé de fabrication de tissus élastiques améliorés et tissus élastiques ainsi fabriqués WO2022162613A1 (fr)

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CN202280012236.XA CN116829776A (zh) 2021-01-28 2022-01-28 用于制造改进的弹性化织物的方法和由此制造的弹性化织物

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IT102021000001811A IT202100001811A1 (it) 2021-01-28 2021-01-28 Nuovi tessuti elasticizzati e loro metodo di produzione

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Citations (6)

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WO2008130563A1 (fr) 2007-04-17 2008-10-30 International Textile Group, Inc. Fils composites élastiques et tissus fabriqués à partir de ceux-ci, et procédés et appareil pour leur fabrication
WO2012056436A2 (fr) 2010-10-30 2012-05-03 Paolo Benelli Fil élastique, procédé de fabrication dudit fil et tissu élastique composé dudit fil
WO2012062480A2 (fr) 2010-11-12 2012-05-18 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Fil composite extensible, procédé et tissu
WO2019159155A1 (fr) 2018-02-19 2019-08-22 Paolo Benelli Fils à âme élastique améliorés à base de lin, ou de chanvre, ou d'autres matières, et tissus élastifiés fabriqués à partir de ceux-ci
CN110528133A (zh) * 2019-09-12 2019-12-03 嘉兴学院 一种包缠结构弹力圈圈复合纱的制备方法及装置
WO2020084361A1 (fr) 2018-10-25 2020-04-30 Candiani S.P.A. Fils élastiques à base de coton pour fabriquer des tissus élastiques écologiques

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19709706C2 (de) * 1997-03-10 2000-01-13 Boehme Chem Fab Kg Verfahren zur Herstellung von textilen elastischen Flächengebilden

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008130563A1 (fr) 2007-04-17 2008-10-30 International Textile Group, Inc. Fils composites élastiques et tissus fabriqués à partir de ceux-ci, et procédés et appareil pour leur fabrication
WO2012056436A2 (fr) 2010-10-30 2012-05-03 Paolo Benelli Fil élastique, procédé de fabrication dudit fil et tissu élastique composé dudit fil
WO2012062480A2 (fr) 2010-11-12 2012-05-18 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Fil composite extensible, procédé et tissu
WO2019159155A1 (fr) 2018-02-19 2019-08-22 Paolo Benelli Fils à âme élastique améliorés à base de lin, ou de chanvre, ou d'autres matières, et tissus élastifiés fabriqués à partir de ceux-ci
WO2020084361A1 (fr) 2018-10-25 2020-04-30 Candiani S.P.A. Fils élastiques à base de coton pour fabriquer des tissus élastiques écologiques
CN110528133A (zh) * 2019-09-12 2019-12-03 嘉兴学院 一种包缠结构弹力圈圈复合纱的制备方法及装置

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EP4284971A1 (fr) 2023-12-06
IT202100001811A1 (it) 2022-07-28

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