WO2021199353A1 - Produit de tissu et procédé de production de celui-ci - Google Patents

Produit de tissu et procédé de production de celui-ci Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021199353A1
WO2021199353A1 PCT/JP2020/014948 JP2020014948W WO2021199353A1 WO 2021199353 A1 WO2021199353 A1 WO 2021199353A1 JP 2020014948 W JP2020014948 W JP 2020014948W WO 2021199353 A1 WO2021199353 A1 WO 2021199353A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
product
fabric
fastener
fastener element
flap
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2020/014948
Other languages
English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
佳之 庄
夕子 福田
Original Assignee
Ykk株式会社
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Ykk株式会社 filed Critical Ykk株式会社
Priority to PCT/JP2020/014948 priority Critical patent/WO2021199353A1/fr
Publication of WO2021199353A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021199353A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/06—Trousers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H37/00—Machines, appliances or methods for setting fastener-elements on garments
    • A41H37/06—Setting slide or glide fastener elements
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44B—BUTTONS, PINS, BUCKLES, SLIDE FASTENERS, OR THE LIKE
    • A44B19/00—Slide fasteners
    • A44B19/10—Slide fasteners with a one-piece interlocking member on each stringer tape

Definitions

  • This disclosure relates to fabric products and their manufacturing methods.
  • Slide fasteners are attached to the openings of various products such as trousers, skirts, bags, and shoes so that the openings can be opened and closed.
  • the fastener element is attached to the fastener tape to form a fastener stringer (see Patent Documents 1 and 2).
  • the opening of the trousers or skirt has the outer flap 21 for concealing the fastener element and the slide fastener open from the viewpoint of aesthetics.
  • a number of fabrics are laminated so as to cover the slide fastener Q from both sides by the inner flap 22 for concealing the inside of the fabric product (see FIG. 9).
  • the number of layers of the fabric is large, and the sewing work also takes time and effort.
  • Patent Document 3 discloses a technique for reducing the number of overlapping fabrics with respect to the attachment of the fastener stringer to the fabric.
  • Patent Document 4 discloses that a flap is formed by the body of trousers.
  • the first and second fastener elements are individually attached to the first and second product fabrics, and the outer flaps of the first product fabric and the inner flaps of the second product fabric are used to attach the outer flaps to the outer side. It has a product opening coated with first and second fastener elements from the inside.
  • Each of the first and second fastener elements has a monofilament bent so as to alternately form an outer portion and an inner portion, and the outer and inner portions are connected by a connecting portion having an engaging portion which is a deformed portion of the monofilament. Includes bent monofilaments.
  • the first fastener element is attached to a first superposition portion of a first product fabric configured to have an outer flap and a single or multi-layer first superposition portion that is superposed on the inside of the outer flap.
  • the second fastener element is attached to a second superposition portion of the second product fabric configured to have an inner flap and a multi-layered second superposition portion that is superposed on the outside of the inner flap.
  • the first and second fastener elements are individually attached to the first and second product fabrics, and the outer flap of the first product fabric and the inner flap of the second product fabric are attached.
  • This is a method for manufacturing a fabric product having product openings coated with first and second fastener elements from the outside and the inside.
  • Each of the first and second fastener elements has a monofilament bent so as to alternately form an outer portion and an inner portion, and the outer and inner portions are connected by a connecting portion having an engaging portion which is a deformed portion of the monofilament. Includes bent monofilaments.
  • it includes a step of folding back the second product fabric so as to form a second overlapping portion of the plurality of layers to be overlapped, and a step of attaching the second fastener element to the second overlapping portion.
  • the second fastener element is sewn to the second overlapped portion with the folded portion of the second overlapped portion inserted between the outer and inner portions.
  • the first fastener element is sewn to the first overlap with the end of the first overlap inserted between the outer and inner sides.
  • the product opening can be a trouser or skirt opening.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an opening 1j (also referred to as a placket) of trousers, which is an example of the fabric product 1.
  • Fabric product 1 is a product containing various kinds of fabrics, and examples thereof include outerwear, trousers, skirts, bags, and shoes.
  • the "outside” in the present specification is the side exposed to the outside air, and the “inside” in the present specification is the side close to the skin.
  • the trousers have left and right bodies 11 and 12.
  • the bodies 11 and 12 can be separate parts or separate fabrics of the same fabric, such as the first and second product fabrics.
  • the bodies 11 and 12 may be composed of a woven structure, a knitted structure, or a structure in which these are mixed.
  • the threads that make up the fabric are appropriately determined according to the type of fabric product (trousers, skirt, bag, and shoes).
  • the bodies 11 and 12 are examples of the product fabric, and the slide fastener is covered from both sides by the outer flap for concealing the fastener element and the inner flap for concealing the inside of the fabric product when the slide fastener is in the open state. If so, it may be another part of the product dough that constitutes the dough product.
  • the body 11 has an outer flap 21, and a fastener element 6A is provided at a position inside the outer flap 21.
  • the body 12 has an inner flap 22, and a fastener element 6B is provided at a position outside the inner flap 22.
  • the inside-out direction such as outside and inside, is used with respect to the opening 1j.
  • the inside-out direction coincides with the thickness direction of the product fabric used for the configuration of the opening 1j, and can be read as each other.
  • the left and right fastener elements 6A and 6B (sometimes called a fastener element pair) are covered from the outside and the inside by the outer flap 21 of the body 11 and the inner flap 22 of the body 12.
  • the left and right fastener elements 6A and 6B are connected by moving the slider 8 (see FIG. 6) forward, and are released by moving the slider 8 backward.
  • the left-right direction is equal to the opening width direction of the opening 1j, and can be read as each other.
  • the front-back direction is equal to the opening length direction of the opening 1j and can be read as each other.
  • the fastener elements 6A and 6B are composed of a bent monofilament 68 in which the monofilament 67 meanders so as to alternately form the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62.
  • the outer and inner portions 61 and 62 are connected by a connecting portion 63 having an engaging portion 64 which is a deformed portion of the monofilament 67 (see FIGS. 2 and 3).
  • the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62 are portions in which the monofilament 67 is bent in a U shape.
  • the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62 adjacent to each other in the opening length direction are connected by the connecting portion 63 inside the opening.
  • the inside of the opening is a direction from a point outside the opening to a point inside the opening in the opening width direction (left-right direction in FIG. 2).
  • the outer portions 61 adjacent to each other in the opening length direction are connected to each other via the inner portion 62 located between them in the opening length direction and the two connecting portions 63 connected to the legs 62p and 62q.
  • the outer portions 61 and the inner portions 62 are alternately provided in the opening length direction, and an insertion space for the product fabric, the core string, etc. is defined between the arrangement of the outer portions 61 and the arrangement of the inner portions 62. ..
  • the outer portion 61 includes a leg portion 61p extending along the opening width direction (to the right) and a leg extending along the opening width direction (to the left). It has a portion 61q and an inversion portion 61r extending (forward) along the opening length direction so as to connect these leg portions 61p and 61q.
  • the inner portion 62 connects the legs 62p extending along the opening width direction (to the right), the legs 62q extending along the opening width direction (to the left), and these legs 62p, 62q.
  • Has an inversion portion 62r extending (forward) along the opening length direction.
  • the bending angle between the legs 61p and 61q and the reversing portion 61r is arbitrary.
  • the bending angle between the legs 62p, 62q and the reversing portion 62r is arbitrary.
  • the reversing portions 61r and 62r can extend in a straight line or an arc shape.
  • the lengths of the legs 61p and 61q do not have to be the same. The same applies to the legs 62p and 62q. It is also assumed that the reversing portions 61r and 62r extend in an inclined manner with respect to the opening length direction.
  • the "U-shape" of the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62 is not limited to a shape that exactly matches the U-shape, but also includes any shape that resembles or is similar to the U-shape in which the monofilament reciprocates in the opening width direction. A form in which the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62 are V-shaped is also assumed.
  • the leg portions 61p and 61q and the reversing portion 61r are provided on the first plane.
  • the legs 62p and 62q and the reversing portion 62r are provided on a second plane located inside the first plane.
  • the first plane and the second plane can be parallel to each other, but are not limited to this. It is also assumed that the distance between the first plane and the second plane increases as the distance from the connecting portion 63 increases.
  • the connecting portion 63 extends along the fabric thickness direction (from the outside to the inside) to connect the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62.
  • the connecting portion 63 has an engaging portion 64 which is a portion of a monofilament having a circular cross section deformed by pressure.
  • the engaging portion 64 has (front and rear) engaging projections that project oppositely along the opening length direction.
  • the explanation regarding the fastener element 6B applies to the fastener element 6A as it is by performing necessary replacements such as replacing "right side” and "left side”.
  • the dough thickness direction is equal to the inside / outside direction with respect to the opening 1j.
  • the unit structure of the monofilament 67 is continuous in the front-rear direction to form the bent monofilament 68.
  • the unit structure of the monofilament 67 is a leg 61p, an inversion 61r, a leg 61q, a connecting portion 63 (extending inward), a leg 62p, an inversion 62r, a leg 62q, and (extending outward).
  • the connecting portion 63 is included.
  • the fastener elements 6A and 6B may include a semi-unit structure that is less than one complete unit structure (for example, the leg portion 61p, the reversing portion 61r, and the leg portion 61q are removed from the unit structure). ).
  • the monofilament 67 extends along the opening width direction (to the right) to form the leg portion 61p and along the opening length direction (to the front side) to form the reversing portion 61r. Extends along the opening width direction (to the left) to form the leg 61q, extends along the fabric thickness direction (inward) to form the connecting portion 63, and forms the leg 62p. It extends along the opening width direction (to the right), extends along the opening length direction (to the front) to form the reversing portion 62r, and extends along the opening width direction to form the leg 62q (left side). And finally (outward) along the fabric thickness direction to form the connecting portion 63.
  • pressure molding of the monofilament 67 can be considered, but other methods can also be adopted.
  • the bending of the monofilament 67 described above can be achieved by using a device for bending the linear monofilament 67.
  • the timing of forming the engaging portion 64 may be before or after the bending step of the monofilament 67.
  • the unit structure of the monofilament 67 can also be defined as an L-shaped portion. That is, the L-shaped portion of the connecting portion 63 and the leg portion 61p, the L-shaped portion of the reversing portion 61r and the leg portion 61q, the L-shaped portion of the connecting portion 63 and the leg portion 62p, and the L-shaped portion of the reversing portion 62r and the leg portion 62q.
  • the smallest unit structure of the monofilament can be defined as an L-shaped portion. Planes with adjacent L-shaped portions are orthogonal to each other.
  • the fastener elements 6A and 6B are attached to the body bodies 11 and 12 which are the product fabrics (directly in the case of the drawing) as shown in FIGS. 3 to 5, respectively.
  • the body 11 is folded so as to have an outer flap 21 and a first superposition portion 31 that is superposed on the inside of the outer flap 21.
  • the outer flap 21 is a multi-layered portion of the body 11, and has an outer layer 21a and an inner layer 21b, which face each other via the folded-back portion 21c.
  • the first overlapping portion 31 is a single-layer or multi-layer portion of the body 11.
  • the first overlapping portion 31 is a single layer in the illustrated example, and faces the inner layer 21b of the outer flap 21 via the folded portion 31c.
  • the first overlapping portion 31 is equal to the end portion of the body 11 extending in the front-rear direction.
  • the body 12 is folded so as to have an inner flap 22 and a second superposition portion 32 that is superposed on the outside of the inner flap 22.
  • the inner flap 22 is a single-layer or multi-layer portion of the body 12.
  • the inner flap 22 is a multi-layer in the illustrated example, has an outer layer 22a and an inner layer 22b, and these are opposed to each other via the folded-back portion 22c.
  • the second overlapping portion 32 is a multi-layered portion of the body 12.
  • the second overlapping portion 32 has an outer layer 32a and an inner layer 32b, which face each other via the folded-back portion 32c.
  • the inner layer 32b of the second overlapping portion 32 and the inner flap 22 face each other via the folded-back portion 22d.
  • the fastener element 6A is attached to the first overlapping portion 31 by sewing (directly in the case of the figure).
  • the fastener element 6A can be attached to the end portion of the first overlapping portion 31.
  • the fastener element 6A can be attached to a folded portion (not shown) of the first overlapping portion 31.
  • the fastener element 6A is placed with respect to the first overlapping portion 31 so that the first overlapping portion 31 (single-layer or multi-layer) is sandwiched between the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62 of the fastener element 6A. Can be attached.
  • the fastener element 6A is sewn to the first overlapping portion 31 with a sewing thread.
  • the sewing method is straight stitch, but it may be staggered stitch.
  • the first fastener element 6A is sewn to the first overlapping portion 31 with the end portion of the first overlapping portion 31 inserted between the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62.
  • the outer portion 61 may be sewn to the first lap portion 31 with a sewing thread
  • the inner portion 62 may be sewn to the first lap portion 31 with a sewing thread.
  • the same or different threads can be used to sew the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62 to the first overlapping portion 31.
  • the fastener element 6B is attached to the second overlapping portion 32, for example, the folded portion 32c by sewing (directly in the case of the drawing).
  • the fastener element 6B is attached to the second overlapping portion 32 so that the folded-back portion 32c of the second overlapping portion 32 is sandwiched between the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62 of the fastener element 6B.
  • the second fastener element 6B is sewn to the second overlapping portion 32 with the folded-back portion 32c of the second overlapping portion 32 inserted between the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62.
  • the fastener element 6B is sewn to the second overlapping portion 32 by the sewing thread, the same or different threads can be used for the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62.
  • a core string or a part of the fastener tape may be provided between the fastener element and the product material. Attaching the fastener element "directly" to the product fabric by sewing means connecting the fastener element itself and the product fabric with a sewing thread without the need for fastener tape.
  • the outer layer 21a and the inner layer 21b are sewn together with the sewing thread at or near the folded-back portion 21c.
  • the outer layer 21a, the inner layer 21b, and the first overlapping portion 31 are sewn together with the sewing thread at or near the folded-back portion 31c.
  • the outer layer 22a and the inner layer 22b are sewn together by the sewing thread at or near the folded-back portion 22c.
  • the inner layer 32b and the inner flap 22 (outer layer 22a and inner layer 22b) are sewn together by the sewing thread at or near the folded-back portion 22d.
  • the outer layer 32a and the inner layer 32b are sewn together by the sewing thread at or near the folded-back portion 32c.
  • the same sewing thread can be used for both sewing the outer layer 32a and the inner layer 32b and sewing the fastener element 6B to the second overlapping portion 32.
  • the outer layer 21a and the inner layer 21b are sewn together by the sewing thread, but the present invention is not limited to this, and the outer layer 21a and the inner layer 21b may be simply folded together.
  • the sewing of the outer layer 32a and the inner layer 32b and the sewing of the fastener element 6B to the second overlapping portion 32 are not limited to the same sewing thread, and may be different sewing threads.
  • the engaging portion 64 with the fastener element is inserted between the engaging portions 64 adjacent to each other in the front-rear direction of the fastener element on the other side.
  • the engagement portions 64 of the fastener elements 6A and 6B are continuously engaged with each other in the opening length direction, the fastener elements 6A and 6B are coupled, and the bodies 11 and 12 are coupled.
  • the fastener elements 6A and 6B are provided so as to sandwich the first overlapping portion 31 and the second overlapping portion 32, respectively, the thickness TH6 (width in the fabric thickness direction) of the fastener elements 6A and 6B shown in FIG. Space can be used for bending the product fabric (body 11, 12) for flap formation, and bulkiness or loss of flexibility of the opening of the fabric product is avoided or suppressed.
  • the folded-back portion 32c and the folded-back portion 31c are present on the plane PL9 (the plane orthogonal to the fabric thickness direction) in which the fastener elements 6A and 6B are present.
  • a region of the body 12 on the right side of the second overlapping portion 32 also exists in the flat surface PL9.
  • the plane PL9 may be located at or near the center of the thickness TH6 of the fastener elements 6A, 6B, but can be shifted inward and outward within the range of the thickness TH6.
  • the fastener elements 6A and 6B are directly attached to the product fabric (body 11 and 12) by sewing.
  • the fastener elements 6A and 6B are attached to the fastener tape, and there is no difference in the texture that may occur when the fastener tape and the product fabrics (body bodies 11 and 12) are sewn together.
  • the fastener tape is thicker than the body or less flexible, the highly flexible fabric feeling of the bodies 11 and 12 is impaired by the fastener tape.
  • the fastener elements 6A and 6B are directly attached to the product fabrics (body bodies 11 and 12), such a problem does not occur because the fastener tape itself is not provided.
  • outer flap 21 and the inner flap 22 do not need to be covered with the fastener tape in addition to the fastener element. Therefore, it is possible to make the left and right widths of the outer flap 21 and the inner flap 22 narrower than those shown in FIG. Furthermore, it is convenient because the attachment of the slide fastener does not require a special manufacturing method other than sewing.
  • the slider 8 has a blade plate 81, a blade plate 82, and a connecting column (not shown) connecting them, as shown in FIG.
  • Fastener elements 6A and 6B are sandwiched between the blade plate 81 and the blade plate 82.
  • a Y-shaped element passage is formed between the blade plate 81 and the blade plate 82 by connecting columns.
  • the slider 8 has a pair of front openings and one rear opening. The fastener elements 6A and 6B in the coupled state are released from the coupling by the connecting pillars and can be moved to the outside of the slider 8 via the front openings.
  • the blade plate 81 has a pair of flange portions 81f, and element passages are defined in the left-right direction.
  • the blade plate 82 has a pair of flange portions 82f. Overlapping portions 31, 32 are provided between the flange portion 81f and the flange portion 82f.
  • FIG. 7 shows a case where the fastener element 6A is placed and sewn on the outer surface of the first overlapping portion 31, and the fastener element 6B is placed and sewn on the outer surface of the second overlapping portion 32. .. Also in this embodiment, similarly to the above, it is possible to provide a technique that contributes to simplification of the structure of the product opening and / or facilitation of sewing work.
  • the core string 66 is inserted between the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62, and the mechanical strength of the fastener elements 6A and 6B is ensured.
  • the outer portion 61 is sewn to the core string 66 with a sewing thread.
  • the inner portion 62 is sewn to the overlapped portion by the sewing thread.
  • the core cord can be a twisted yarn in which a large number of yarns are twisted.
  • a metal rod, a resin rod, or the like can be used as an alternative to the core cord.
  • a fastener element can be configured as shown in US Pat. No. 3,484,906, and a slider can be configured as shown in the same document.
  • the length of the outer portion 61 from the connecting portion 63 in the opening width direction is larger than the length of the inner portion 62 from the connecting portion 63 in the opening width direction.
  • the fastener element 6A is placed and sewn on the inner surface of the first overlapping portion 31, and the fastener element 6B is placed and sewn on the inner surface of the second overlapping portion 32.
  • the fastener element is attached to the product fabric by sewing, it is possible to provide a technique that contributes to simplification of the configuration of the product opening and / or smoothness of the sewing work as described above.
  • the fastener element 6A may be attached to the body 11 via the fastener tape 71.
  • the fastener tape 71 There is an increase in the thickness of the fastener tape by 71 minutes, but it is acceptable in applications where high flexibility is not required.
  • the fastener element, the fastener tape and the body can be connected in various ways.
  • the fastener element, the fastener tape and the laminated portion of the body are joined by at least one sewing thread.
  • This sewing thread repeats straddling the fastener element on the outside and straddling the body on the inside.
  • a sewing thread that selectively connects the fastener element and the fastener tape is used, and / or a sewing thread that selectively connects the fastener tape and the product fabric is used.
  • the fabric product 1 and its manufacturing method are also substantially disclosed.
  • the first and second fastener elements 6A and 6B are individually attached to the first and second product fabrics 11 and 12, and the outer flap 21 of the first product fabric 11 is attached.
  • This is a method for producing a fabric product 1 having a product opening 1j in which the first and second fastener elements 6A and 6B are coated from the outside and the inside by the inner flap 22 of the second product fabric 12.
  • the method for producing the dough product 1 disclosed herein includes the following steps: The step of folding back the first product fabric 11 so as to form the outer flap 21; A step of folding back the first product fabric 11 so as to form a single-layer or multi-layer first superposition portion 31 that is or should be superposed on the inside of the outer flap 21; The process of attaching the first fastener element 6A to the first overlapping portion 31 by sewing, and The process of folding back the second product dough 12 so as to form the inner flap 22; The step of folding back the second product dough 12 so as to form the second superposition portion 32 of the multi-layer to be superposed or to be superposed on the outside of the inner flap 22; A step of attaching the second fastener element 6B to the second overlapping portion 32 by sewing. These steps can be performed in any order. The necessary sewing can be performed along with the folding process (as understood from FIG. 4 and the related description).
  • the first step is in a state where the end portion of the first overlapping portion 31 is inserted between the outer portion 61 and the inner portion 62.
  • the first fastener element 6A is sewn to the overlapping portion 31.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des premier et second éléments de fixation (6A, 6B) qui comprennent chacun un monofilament courbé (68) qui comprend un monofilament (67) qui est courbé de façon à former alternativement des parties extérieures (61) et des parties intérieures (62). Le premier élément de fixation (6A) est fixé à une première partie de chevauchement (31) d'un premier tissu de produit (11). Le second élément de fixation (6B) est fixé à une seconde partie de chevauchement (32) d'un second tissu de produit (12). La première partie de chevauchement (31) est une partie monocouche ou multicouche qui chevauche l'intérieur d'un rabat extérieur (21). La seconde partie de chevauchement (32) est une partie multicouche qui chevauche l'extérieur d'un rabat intérieur (22).
PCT/JP2020/014948 2020-03-31 2020-03-31 Produit de tissu et procédé de production de celui-ci WO2021199353A1 (fr)

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PCT/JP2020/014948 WO2021199353A1 (fr) 2020-03-31 2020-03-31 Produit de tissu et procédé de production de celui-ci

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PCT/JP2020/014948 WO2021199353A1 (fr) 2020-03-31 2020-03-31 Produit de tissu et procédé de production de celui-ci

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3184077U (ja) * 2013-03-30 2013-06-13 株式会社オンワードホールディングス リバーシブルズボン
WO2016016971A1 (fr) * 2014-07-30 2016-02-04 Ykk株式会社 Demi-chaîne de fermeture, fermeture à glissière, et article à fermeture à glissière
WO2018011866A1 (fr) * 2016-07-11 2018-01-18 株式会社ゴタリオ Structure d'attache de demi-chaîne de fermeture

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3184077U (ja) * 2013-03-30 2013-06-13 株式会社オンワードホールディングス リバーシブルズボン
WO2016016971A1 (fr) * 2014-07-30 2016-02-04 Ykk株式会社 Demi-chaîne de fermeture, fermeture à glissière, et article à fermeture à glissière
WO2018011866A1 (fr) * 2016-07-11 2018-01-18 株式会社ゴタリオ Structure d'attache de demi-chaîne de fermeture

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