WO2021003963A1 - 一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物及其制备方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021003963A1
WO2021003963A1 PCT/CN2019/121342 CN2019121342W WO2021003963A1 WO 2021003963 A1 WO2021003963 A1 WO 2021003963A1 CN 2019121342 W CN2019121342 W CN 2019121342W WO 2021003963 A1 WO2021003963 A1 WO 2021003963A1
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skin
skin care
care composition
cream
parts
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PCT/CN2019/121342
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English (en)
French (fr)
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张训庭
钟卫芳
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浙江康满家日用品有限公司
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Priority to EP19901402.8A priority Critical patent/EP3960153A4/en
Publication of WO2021003963A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021003963A1/zh

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of skin care products. More specifically, the present invention relates to a skin tightening composition and a preparation method thereof.
  • the present invention provides a skin tightening skin care composition, which can be used in a variety of skin care products, while providing skin tightening, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects, it also has high stability and is suitable for various skins. Quality crowd.
  • the first aspect of the present invention provides a skincare composition for firming skin.
  • the raw materials of the skincare composition include an emulsifier and a jambu flower extract; the emulsifier is selected from stearic acid One or more of esters, stearyl alcohols, and stearyl glucoside emulsifiers.
  • the emulsifier further includes stearoyl glutamate; the stearoyl glutamate accounts for 2 to 4 wt% of the emulsifier.
  • the stearoyl glutamate accounts for 3 to 10 wt% of the extract of the jambu flower.
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition also include hydrogenated lecithin, trehalose and hydrolyzed soybean protein complex.
  • the weight ratio of the trehalose and the hydrolyzed soybean protein complex is 1: (2 to 3).
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition also include composite plant extracts, caffeine liposomes and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex.
  • the weight ratio of the composite plant extract, caffeine liposome and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex is 1: (0.5-1.5): (1.5-2.5).
  • the second aspect of the present invention provides an application of the skin-tightening skin care composition, which is applied to skin care products;
  • the skin care products are selected from the group consisting of aqua, lotion, cream, eye cream, cleanser, facial mask, BB
  • the skin care product is a face cream;
  • the preparation raw materials of the face cream include 9-25% of the skin care composition, 0.1-0.5% thickener, 15-20% by weight.
  • the third aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing a face cream.
  • the raw materials for preparing the face cream include 9-25% of the skin-care composition, 0.1-0.5% thickener, and 15-20% moisturizer in terms of weight percentage.
  • Agent 0 ⁇ 0.5% antioxidant, 8 ⁇ 20% emollient, 0.5 ⁇ 2% chelating agent, 0.2 ⁇ 0.8% skin conditioner and the balance deionized water;
  • the preparation method of the face cream includes the following steps:
  • Water phase pretreatment After homogenizing the thickener and deionized water, add moisturizer, antioxidant and half of the skin conditioner, stir and heat;
  • Oil phase pretreatment after stirring and heating the emulsifiers and emollients other than stearoyl glutamate, the golden button flower extract is added;
  • Post-treatment mix the water phase and the oil phase to homogeneity and cool down, add the chelating agent, the balance of the skin conditioner and the other components of the skin care composition except trehalose, hydrogenated lecithin and emulsifier and stir, The cream is obtained after filtration.
  • the present invention has the following beneficial effects: the skin tightening skin care composition provided by the present invention has excellent skin tightening, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects, and has high heat resistance, cold resistance and mechanical stability It can be used in a variety of skin care products without irritating the skin. It is also suitable for oily skin and sensitive skin.
  • compositions, step, method, product or device containing the listed elements is not necessarily limited to those elements, but may include other elements not explicitly listed or inherent in such a composition, step, method, product or device Elements.
  • the first aspect of the present invention provides a skin care composition for firming skin.
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition include an emulsifier and a jambu flower extract; the emulsifier includes stearates and stearyl alcohol Class emulsifier.
  • the emulsifier of the present invention is selected from one or more of stearic acid esters, stearyl alcohols, and stearyl glucoside emulsifiers.
  • stearate emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, polyethylene glycol stearate, glyceryl stearate, and polyoxyethylene stearate emulsifiers.
  • stearyl alcohol emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol ester emulsifiers.
  • stearyl glucoside emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, cetyl stearyl glucoside and isostearyl glucoside.
  • the emulsifier of the present invention is a stearate and/or stearyl alcohol emulsifier.
  • the emulsifier of the present invention includes glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate and cetearyl alcohol.
  • the ingredients are not easy to disperse well when preparing various skin care products such as creams, creams and lotions.
  • the obtained skin care products are prone to problems such as agglomeration and agglomeration under specific conditions such as high temperature or low temperature.
  • the emulsifier is easy to use stearate, stearyl alcohol, stearyl glucoside emulsifier, etc., especially glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate and cetearyl alcohol.
  • a relatively stable skin care product may be obtained due to the interaction between the hydrophilic end and the hydrophobic end of these components to form micelles of suitable size and relatively stable structure, and it is good to pass the composition and other ingredients in the skin care product through these micelles. Dispersed together to form stable milk particles, so that the composition has good stability.
  • the emulsifier of the present invention further includes stearoyl glutamate; the stearoyl glutamate accounts for 2 to 4 wt% of the emulsifier.
  • the stearoyl glutamate of the present invention is sodium stearoyl glutamate.
  • the emulsifier containing a certain amount of stearoyl glutamate can further improve the stability of the composition, so that the skin care product containing the composition can maintain a stable structure under the action of high temperature, low temperature or strong centrifugal force , It is not prone to technical problems such as agglomeration and agglomeration. This may be due to the fact that both stearic acid esters and stearyl alcohol emulsifiers are of non-ionic structure. Although their hydrophilic and hydrophobic structures can form micelles to disperse other components in the system, there are also differences between adjacent micelles.
  • the golden button flower extract of the present invention is rich in isobutylamide and highly active spilanthol, and stimulates the natural vitality and biological activity of fibroblasts through the interaction between dermal fibroblasts and collagen network. Mechanical function, thereby reforming the structure of the dermis, rapidly increasing the density and firmness of the skin, reducing the roughness of the skin, promoting skin smoothing, and quickly reducing the crow's feet in the corners of the eyes, which has a significant anti-wrinkle effect.
  • the extract of golden button flower has antibacterial and whitening effects.
  • the golden button flower extract of the present invention also contains a small amount of caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • the golden button flower extract of the present invention is purchased from Shanghai Puen Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., and the brand is Gatuline IN-Tense.
  • the applicant has found that adding a certain amount of A. japonicus extract to the above composition can significantly reduce expression lines and improve skin smoothness and firmness.
  • the golden button flower extract contains a certain amount of caprylic/capric triglycerides, which can help to disperse the golden button flower extract in the composition and skin care products.
  • the golden button flower extract is rich in A large number of alkyl amide compounds can be absorbed by the skin, stimulate the biodynamic function of fibroblasts, and help to reform the dermal structure.
  • the strong polar groups such as amide bonds in these alkyl amide compounds can be used with skin cells.
  • the strong absorption between the dermis increases the thickness of the dermis layer and strengthens the structure of the dermis layer, so as to avoid skin sagging and wrinkles, and make the skin smooth and firm.
  • the stearoyl glutamate of the present invention accounts for 3-10% by weight of the extract of the jambu flower.
  • the composition does not contain a specific amount of stearoyl glutamate, the composition has no significant effect on skin smoothness and firmness, as well as anti-wrinkle effects, and it takes a long time to have a certain effect.
  • it contains about 3-10wt% of stearoyl glutamate by weight of the golden button flower extract, the above-mentioned effect of the composition is significantly improved.
  • stearoyl glutamate has a positive effect on the golden button flower extract. Penetration inside the skin and absorption by skin cells have a greater impact.
  • the composition lacks stearoyl glutamate, the extract of A. japonicus may stay in the epidermis layer and cannot easily penetrate into the dermis layer, or its absorption It is slower, and it takes a longer time to stimulate enough cell viability to achieve a more significant effect.
  • the raw materials for the skin care composition of the present invention further include hydrogenated lecithin, trehalose and hydrolyzed soy protein complex.
  • the hydrogenated lecithin of the present invention is a stable substance formed by hydrogenation of lecithin under the action of a catalyst.
  • Lecithin is an indispensable substance for every cell of the human body. If it is lacking, it will reduce the regeneration ability of skin cells, resulting in rough skin and wrinkles. If you can properly take in lecithin, skin regeneration can be guaranteed. Coupled with lecithin's good hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, the skin will of course be shiny.
  • the lecithin molecules are arranged in double layers to form a selective and protective barrier to control cell life. It plays a very important role in activating cells, maintaining metabolism, anti-oxidant damage, repairing after sun, strengthening skin, and delaying aging.
  • Hydrogenated lecithin retains the active ingredients of lecithin intact, and its stability and emulsification are improved. It has strong hydrophilicity and moisturizing properties, and has a strong affinity for skin and mucous membranes. It can be used in cosmetic formulations. Plays the role of moisturizing, emulsifying and dispersing, anti-oxidation, etc.; and hydrogenated lecithin can also be used as a surfactant to condition the skin, so that it can achieve a good oil-water balance, better absorb nutrients, and can be used in a variety of cosmetics in.
  • the trehalose of the present invention is a safe and reliable natural sugar.
  • Trehalose can effectively protect the epidermal cell membrane structure, activate cells, and condition the skin, making the skin healthy, natural and elastic.
  • Trehalose can form a special protective film on the cell surface, epidermal cells, to prevent cells from losing moisture in high temperature, cold, dry, strong ultraviolet radiation and other environments to damage the skin, maintain the original nutrition and moisture of the skin, and avoid sun exposure It hurts melanin precipitation and effectively resists skin aging; and the mucus that separates from the membrane can gently moisturize the skin, and also radiate external heat, thereby protecting the skin from damage and making the skin bright, shiny and tender.
  • the weight percentage of the hydrogenated lecithin of the present invention in the trehalose is 15-30 wt%.
  • the hydrolyzed soy protein complex of the present invention contains hydrolyzed soy protein, which is rich in hydroxyproline glycopeptides. Hydroxyproline can promote the formation of skin collagen, thereby promoting skin smoothness and firmness. At the same time, hydrolyzed soy protein It has high-efficiency moisturizing effect and helps to induce the skin to produce hyaluronic acid. When the hyaluronic acid content of human skin gradually decreases, it means that the maturation and aging process of the skin is taking place. Soy protein is hydrolyzed to induce the role of the skin and increase the skin The concentration of hyaluronic acid to achieve high-efficiency moisturizing effect.
  • the hydrolyzed soybean protein complex of the present invention also includes gum arabic and xanthan gum, and the present invention does not further limit the content of specific components of the hydrolyzed soybean protein complex.
  • the weight ratio of the trehalose and the hydrolyzed soybean protein complex of the present invention is 1: (2 to 3).
  • the skin care composition which can adjust the activity of the composition and ensure that the composition makes the skin elastic and firm. It can also take effect gently on sensitive skin, and avoid direct contact with the skin due to the high concentration and active chemical ingredients in skin care products, which may cause a series of side reactions such as allergies and redness. This may be due to the special molecular structure of hydrogenated lecithin and trehalose, so that hydrogenated lecithin can form a micellar structure due to its strong hydrophilicity and hydrophobicity, and forms a space under the action of the polyhydroxy glycoside structure of trehalose.
  • the hydroxyl groups, phosphate groups and other groups in the structure use intermolecular hydrogen bonds and other forces to form cavities of different sizes, which coat high-active chemical components such as small alcohols in skin care products to avoid high
  • the concentration of active ingredients is directly in contact with the skin, but as the skin care product penetrates into the skin and is absorbed by the skin cells and tissues, it is slowly released, which has corresponding effects while avoiding allergic reactions.
  • the hydrolyzed soy protein complex contains hydrolyzed soy protein, gum arabic gum, and xanthan gum. Because the molecular structure of these components contains more polar groups such as hydroxyl and amino groups, intramolecular hydrogen bonds and other forces It is very strong, causing these molecules to easily form a denser aggregate structure, which is not easy to penetrate into the skin, and the absorption speed is slow. By compounding with hydrogenated lecithin, trehalose and other ingredients in a specific dosage ratio, it can be mixed to a certain extent.
  • the upper weakens the intramolecular force, so that the molecular chains of the above components are further stretched, can better adhere to the skin tissues, be absorbed by skin cells faster, and increase the thickness and elasticity of the stratum corneum, thereby helping to enhance the skin’s A sense of firmness, reducing wrinkles.
  • the hydrolyzed soy protein complex of the present invention is purchased from Shanghai Yaolan Trading Co., Ltd., and the brand is Firming Skin Rejuvenation.
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition of the present invention further include composite plant extracts, caffeine liposomes and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex.
  • the compound plant extract of the present invention includes Aloe barbadensis leaf extract and Italian cabbage extract.
  • Aloe vera leaf extract shows various biological activities. It is an important additive for cosmetics. It has excellent skin activation and anti-oxidant effects. It can promote the growth of fibrin, the synthesis of collagen and scavenging free radicals; Cholesterol synthesis has a promoting effect, helps to change the composition of sebum, reduces shine and increases the softness of the skin; it also has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing effects.
  • Italian cabbage extract is extracted from Italian cabbage and can promote wound healing. In skin care products, it has anti-oxidation, anti-wrinkle and anti-stress effects, and can help repair damaged skin.
  • the compound plant extract of the present invention is purchased from Shanghai Ruimu Chemical Technology Co., Ltd. under the brand name of BioDtox.
  • the compound plant extract of the present invention may contain anthraquinone compounds, aloe polysaccharides, bioflavonoids, alkaloids and other ingredients, and these ingredients help to penetrate the skin from the pores and cleanse
  • the dirt and oil in the pores are also absorbed by the skin tissues to help regulate the secretion of the sebaceous glands, and prevent the sebaceous glands from secreting too much oil, causing the oil to block the pores, and even causing the pores to become inflamed and large pores.
  • the caffeine liposome of the present invention contains caffeine.
  • Caffeine contains active ingredients such as antioxidants, which can help resist and inhibit free radicals, thereby improving skin aging and preventing redness, repairing skin damaged by ultraviolet rays, and improving skin tone. And caffeine can dehydrate fat cells, thereby reducing the fat particles on the skin's surface and smoothing the skin.
  • the caffeine liposome of the present invention also contains nicotinamide, lecithin, phenoxyethanol and other components, and uses the hydrophilic and hydrophobic characteristics of lecithin and other components to wrap caffeine in micelles formed by lecithin to avoid caffeine
  • nicotinamide nicotinamide
  • lecithin phenoxyethanol
  • hydrophilic and hydrophobic characteristics of lecithin and other components to wrap caffeine in micelles formed by lecithin to avoid caffeine
  • it uses the better affinity and interaction between lecithin and skin tissues to accelerate the penetration of these ingredients into the skin and the absorption of these ingredients by the skin tissues, and the absorption of these ingredients Speed up the speed of cellulite and edema, and improve the skin condition.
  • the caffeine liposome of the present invention is purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand is LIPO COFFIN HERBASOME.
  • the trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex of the present invention comprises trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2.
  • Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 is an active polypeptide composed of three amino acids, its sequence is N-(2,2,2-trifluoroacetyl)-Val-Tyr-Val-OH, due to its special molecular structure , And its affinity with the skin tissue environment, can be absorbed by skin cells and tissues, inhibit MMP-1 from stimulating the generation of ECM, and delay skin cell aging and skin fold aging.
  • the trifluoroacetyl tripeptide of the present invention also contains a small amount of glycerol and dextran.
  • the trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex of the present invention is purchased from Shanghai Zhirou Chemical Co., Ltd. under the brand name Progline.
  • the weight ratio of the composite plant extract, caffeine liposome and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex of the present invention is 1: (0.5-1.5): (1.5-2.5).
  • the weight ratio of the compound plant extract, caffeine liposome and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex is within a certain range, the synergistic effect of the corresponding components in the composition reaches the best balance, and the compound Plant extracts can cleanse and soften the stratum corneum, reduce pores and further accelerate the penetration of caffeine liposomes into the skin.
  • the caffeine liposomes use the coating effect of lecithin to increase the activity and permeability at the same time. Using the similarity of lecithin and skin tissue structure can reversibly change the skin structure during the penetration process, and also help promote the absorption of trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex.
  • the composition can be quickly absorbed by the skin. Tissue absorption, thereby strengthening the structure of the skin's dermal layer, promoting the production of collagen, and forming a cross-linked spatial network under the action of the corresponding enzymes in the skin, improving skin elasticity and removing wrinkles. Makes skin smooth and firm.
  • the second aspect of the present invention provides an application of the skin-tightening skin care composition, which is applied to skin care products;
  • the skin care products are selected from the group consisting of aqua, lotion, cream, eye cream, cleanser, facial mask, BB
  • the emulsions and creams of the present invention are liquid cream cosmetics; the cleansers, cleansers, and cleansers generally refer to liquid products composed of oil-phase substances, water-phase substances, surfactants, moisturizers, nutrients and other ingredients. Including but not limited to facial cleanser, facial cleanser, cleanser.
  • the facial mask is a carrier of beauty care products, including, but not limited to, mud type, tear-off type, gel type, and wet tissue type facial masks.
  • the BB cream refers to Blemish Balm, and its functions include but are not limited to concealer, skin tone adjustment, sun protection, and pore refinement;
  • the pure liquid refers to a concentrated high-nutrient substance, including but not limited to essence, essence, facial mask, essence In the form of injections, essence capsules, etc.;
  • the sunscreen is a cosmetic that is added with a sunscreen that can block or absorb ultraviolet rays to prevent the skin from being tanned and sunburned;
  • the acne lotion is a liquid substance with the effect of curing acne;
  • the acne lotion is a liquid substance with the function of treating acne.
  • the skin care product of the present invention is a face cream;
  • the preparation raw materials for the face cream include 9-25% of the skin care composition, 0.1-0.5% thickener, 15- 20% humectant, 0 to 0.5% antioxidant, 8 to 20% emollient, 0.5 to 2% chelating agent, 0.2 to 0.8% skin conditioner and the balance deionized water.
  • the face cream provided by the present invention is a white to light yellow delicate paste, conforms to the specified aroma (rose), has a pH value in the range of 5.50 to 6.50, and a relative density at 20°C of 1.00 ⁇ 0.02 g/cm 3 .
  • the pH value of the present invention is obtained through a pH meter test according to the GB T13531.1-2008 pH measurement method.
  • the relative density of the present invention is obtained by using a densitometer test according to the GB T13531.4-2013 relative density measurement method.
  • the thickener of the present invention is selected from acrylate, alkyl methacrylate copolymer or its salt, carboxyvinyl polymer or its salt, alginate, polyol ester of alginic acid, polyvinylpyrrolidone One or more of, polyvinyl alcohol, sodium acrylate, sodium tripolyphosphate, carrageenan, carbomer, xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl cellulose.
  • the moisturizer of the present invention is selected from one or more of polyols, natural polysaccharides, hydrophilic synthetic polymers, and betaine moisturizers.
  • polyhydric alcohol moisturizers include, but are not limited to, glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1 , 5-pentanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, gluconic acid, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, inositol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, trehalose, etc.
  • Examples of natural polysaccharide moisturizers include, but are not limited to, hyaluronic acid, hyaluronan, heparin, polyglucuronic acid, chondroitin, chondroitin sulfate, pectin and their alkali metal salts where appropriate .
  • hydrophilic synthetic polymer humectants include, but are not limited to, poly(2-methacryloxyethylphosphocholine), poly(2-methacryloxyethylphosphoryl- CO-methacrylamide).
  • betaine moisturizers include, but are not limited to, betaine and its derivatives, and any compound included in the zwitterionic compound of the corresponding sulfobetaine (the carboxyl group of betaine is replaced with a sulfo group).
  • decyl betaine lauryl betaine, myristyl betaine, cetyl betaine, stearoyl betaine, behenyl betaine, lauryl amidopropyl betaine, oleamidopropyl Betaine, palmamidopropyl betaine, lauryl sultaine, coco sultaine, poly(methacryloyloxyethyl betaine), poly(methacryloyloxyethyl betaine) Base-co-2-hydroxyethyl methacrylic acid).
  • the humectant of the present invention includes methyl propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and betaine.
  • the antioxidant is selected from one or more of oil-soluble antioxidants, water-soluble antioxidants and natural extracts containing antioxidants.
  • water-soluble antioxidants include, but are not limited to, sulfhydryl compounds and their derivatives, lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, resveratrol, acetyl-cysteine, lactoferrin, ascorbic acid and their derivatives .
  • oil-soluble antioxidants include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids, tocotrienols, and ubiquinone.
  • Examples of natural extracts containing antioxidants include, but are not limited to, extracts containing flavonoids and isoflavones and their derivatives, extracts containing resveratrol, and the like.
  • the emollient of the present invention is selected from cyclopentamethicone, dimethicone, octylmethicone, tocopherol acetate, cyclohexasiloxane , Diisopropyl Sebacate, Dioctyl Carbonate, Triglyceride (Ethylhexanoate), Isododecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, avocado Fruit One or more of fat, jojoba seed oil, squalane, petrolatum, and PEG-7 olive oil sodium carboxylate.
  • the emollient of the present invention includes shea butter, jojoba seed oil, squalane, dimethicone, octyl polymethicone and tocopherol acetate.
  • the chelating agent of the present invention is selected from one or more of ethylenediamine tetraalkyl sodium salt, citric acid and its salts, phosphate, etidronic acid and its salts, and caprylyl hydroxamic acid.
  • ethylenediamine tetraalkyl sodium salt citric acid and its salts
  • phosphate etidronic acid and its salts
  • caprylyl hydroxamic acid caprylyl hydroxamic acid.
  • the chelating agent of the present invention is octanoyl hydroxamic acid.
  • the octanoyl hydroxamic acid of the present invention also contains 1,3-propanediol and 1,2-hexanediol. As a multifunctional additive, it can be used in skin care products. In addition to being a chelating agent, it also has moisturizing, emollient, anti-allergy, anti-oxidation and antiseptic effects.
  • the chelating agent of the present invention is purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand is PHL.
  • the present invention does not further limit the skin conditioning agent.
  • the skin conditioning agent of the present invention includes allantoin, arginine and rose oil.
  • Allantoin is an amphoteric compound that can combine with a variety of substances to form a double salt. It has the effects of preventing light, sterilizing and antiseptic, analgesic, and anti-oxidant. It has the functions of protecting tissue, hydrophilic, absorbing water and preventing water from dispersing, and can keep the skin Moisture, moisturizing and softening, widely used in freckles cream, acne lotion, shampoo, soap, toothpaste, shaving lotion, hair conditioner, astringent, antiperspirant deodorant lotion, etc. And allantoin can promote tissue growth, cell metabolism, and soften cuticle protein.
  • Arginine is a basic amino acid, which can work synergistically with moisturizing fruit acid, trehalose, etc., to maintain skin moisture and smooth skin. Arginine is also the most commonly used cosmetic nutritional aid.
  • Rose flower oil is a high-grade concentrated essence, which can improve the fragrance of the product and conceal bad odor; it has the effect of scavenging free radicals, indicating that it can be used as an antioxidant and prevent aging; it can enhance cell activity and has a skin-activating effect; It also has a certain inhibitory effect and can assist in whitening.
  • the third aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing a face cream.
  • the raw materials for preparing the face cream include 9-25% of the skin-care composition, 0.1-0.5% thickener, and 15-20% moisturizer in terms of weight percentage.
  • Agent 0 ⁇ 0.5% antioxidant, 8 ⁇ 20% emollient, 0.5 ⁇ 2% chelating agent, 0.2 ⁇ 0.8% skin conditioner and the balance deionized water;
  • the preparation method of the face cream includes the following steps:
  • Water phase pretreatment After homogenizing the thickener and deionized water, add moisturizer, antioxidant and half of the skin conditioner, stir and heat;
  • Oil phase pretreatment after stirring and heating the emulsifiers and emollients other than stearoyl glutamate, the golden button flower extract is added;
  • Post-treatment mix the water phase and the oil phase to homogeneity and cool down, add the chelating agent, the balance of the skin conditioner and the other components of the skin care composition except trehalose, hydrogenated lecithin and emulsifier and stir, The cream is obtained after filtration.
  • the homogenization frequency is 15-25 Hz.
  • the stirring frequency is 25-35 Hz.
  • heating is performed to 80-85°C.
  • the stearoyl glutamate is added after heating to 80-85°C.
  • the stirring frequency is 20-30 Hz.
  • the oil phase pretreatment step of the present invention is heated to 80-85°C.
  • the homogenization frequency is 20-30 Hz, and the homogenization time is 8-15 min.
  • the temperature is lowered to 40-50°C, and a chelating agent, the balance of the skin conditioner and the removal of trehalose, hydrogenated lecithin and emulsifier are added. And stir the other components of the skin care composition.
  • the stirring frequency is 25-35 Hz.
  • a 200-300 mesh filter cloth is used for filtration.
  • the mesh number in the present invention refers to the number of holes of the filter cloth in 1 inch.
  • Example 1 of the present invention provides a skin care composition for firming skin.
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition include 6.5 parts of emulsifier and 3 parts of golden button flower extract in terms of weight percentage.
  • the emulsifier consists of 2 parts of glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate and 4.5 parts of cetearyl alcohol (CAS number: 67762-27-0) in parts by weight.
  • the glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate was purchased from Shanghai Gaowei Industrial Co., Ltd., and the brand was ARLACEL 170.
  • the golden button flower extract was purchased from Shanghai Puen Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., with the brand name Gatuline IN-Tense.
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin-tightening skin care composition.
  • the preparation raw materials of the cream include 9.5% of the skin care composition, 0.4% thickener, 16% moisturizer, 0.2% by weight. % Antioxidants, 11.1% emollients, 1% chelating agents, 0.48% skin conditioners and the balance deionized water.
  • the thickener is carbomer (CAS number: 9007-20-9).
  • the moisturizer consists of 8 parts of methyl propylene glycol (CAS number: 2163-42-0) and 8 parts of 1,3-propanediol (CAS number: 504-63-2) in parts by weight.
  • the antioxidant is p-hydroxyacetophenone (CAS number: 99-93-4).
  • the emollient consists of 2 parts of shea butter, 1 part of jojoba seed oil, 1 part of squalane (CAS number: 111-01-3), and 5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane in parts by weight. (CAS number: 9006-65-9), 2 parts of octyl polymethylsiloxane (CAS number: 17955-88-3) and 0.1 part of tocopherol acetate.
  • the shea butter was purchased from Shanghai Xierui Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the jojoba seed oil was purchased from Shanghai Fubo Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the tocopherol acetate was purchased from Shanghai Shangde Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the chelating agent was purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand was PHL.
  • the skin conditioner consists of 0.2 parts of allantoin (CAS number: 97-59-6), 0.2 parts of arginine (CAS number: 74-79-3) and 0.08 parts of rose oil in parts by weight.
  • the rose oil was purchased from Engle Flavors and Fragrances (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, which includes the following steps:
  • Aqueous pretreatment After adding the thickener to deionized water and homogenizing at 20 Hz, add humectant, allantoin and antioxidants, stir at 30 Hz and heat to 83°C;
  • Oil phase pretreatment stir the emulsifier and emollient at 25 Hz and heat to 83°C, and add the golden button flower extract;
  • Post-treatment mix the water phase and the oil phase at 25Hz and homogenize for 10min, cool to 45°C, add chelating agent, arginine and rose oil and stir at 30Hz, after sampling and testing pass, filter with 200 mesh filter cloth Then get the cream.
  • Example 2 of the present invention provides a skin care composition for firming skin.
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition include 6.7 parts of emulsifier and 3 parts of golden button flower extract in terms of weight percentage.
  • the emulsifier consists of 2 parts of glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate, 4.5 parts of cetearyl alcohol (CAS number: 67762-27-0) and 0.2 parts of stearoyl It is composed of sodium carboxylate (CAS number: 38517-23-6).
  • the glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate was purchased from Shanghai Gaowei Industrial Co., Ltd., and the brand was ARLACEL 170.
  • the golden button flower extract was purchased from Shanghai Puen Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., with the brand name Gatuline IN-Tense.
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin-tightening skin care composition.
  • the preparation raw materials of the cream include 9.7% of the skin care composition, 0.4% thickener, 16% moisturizer, 0.2% by weight. % Antioxidants, 11.1% emollients, 1% chelating agents, 0.48% skin conditioners and the balance deionized water.
  • the thickener is carbomer (CAS number: 9007-20-9).
  • the moisturizer consists of 8 parts of methyl propylene glycol (CAS number: 2163-42-0) and 8 parts of propylene glycol (CAS number: 504-63-2) in parts by weight.
  • the antioxidant is p-hydroxyacetophenone (CAS number: 99-93-4).
  • the emollient consists of 2 parts of shea butter, 1 part of jojoba seed oil, 1 part of squalane (CAS number: 111-01-3), and 5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane in parts by weight. (CAS number: 9006-65-9), 2 parts of octyl polymethylsiloxane (CAS number: 17955-88-3) and 0.1 part of tocopherol acetate.
  • the shea butter was purchased from Shanghai Xierui Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the jojoba seed oil was purchased from Shanghai Fubo Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the tocopherol acetate was purchased from Shanghai Shangde Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the chelating agent was purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand was PHL.
  • the skin conditioner consists of 0.2 parts of allantoin (CAS number: 97-59-6), 0.2 parts of arginine (CAS number: 74-79-3) and 0.08 parts of rose oil in parts by weight.
  • the rose oil was purchased from Engle Flavors and Fragrances (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, which includes the following steps:
  • Aqueous pretreatment After adding the thickener to deionized water for homogenization at 20 Hz, adding humectant, allantoin and antioxidants, stirring at 30 Hz and heating to 83° C., adding the stearoyl glutamine Sodium;
  • Oil phase pretreatment stirring the other components of the emulsifier and emollient except the sodium stearyl glutamate and heating to 83°C at 25 Hz, and adding the golden button flower extract;
  • Post-treatment mix the water phase and the oil phase at 25Hz and homogenize for 10min, cool to 45°C, add chelating agent, arginine and rose oil and stir at 30Hz, after sampling and testing pass, filter with 200 mesh filter cloth Then get the cream.
  • Example 3 of the present invention provides a skin-tightening skin care composition.
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition include 6.7 parts of emulsifier, 3 parts of golden button flower extract, and 0.2 parts of hydrogenated lecithin ( CAS number: 92128-87-5), 1 part of trehalose (CAS number: 99-20-7) and 2.5 parts of hydrolyzed soybean protein complex.
  • the emulsifier consists of 2 parts of glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate, 4.5 parts of cetearyl alcohol (CAS number: 67762-27-0) and 0.2 parts of stearoyl It is composed of sodium carboxylate (CAS number: 38517-23-6).
  • the glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate was purchased from Shanghai Gaowei Industrial Co., Ltd., and the brand was ARLACEL 170.
  • the golden button flower extract was purchased from Shanghai Puen Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., with the brand name Gatuline IN-Tense.
  • the hydrolyzed soy protein complex was purchased from Shanghai Yaolan Trading Co., Ltd., and the brand was firming and refreshing.
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin-tightening skin care composition.
  • the preparation raw materials of the cream include 13.4% of the skin care composition, 0.4% thickener, 16% moisturizer, 0.2% by weight. % Antioxidants, 11.1% emollients, 1% chelating agents, 0.48% skin conditioners and the balance deionized water.
  • the thickener is carbomer (CAS number: 9007-20-9).
  • the moisturizer consists of 8 parts of methyl propylene glycol (CAS number: 2163-42-0) and 8 parts of propylene glycol (CAS number: 504-63-2) in parts by weight.
  • the antioxidant is p-hydroxyacetophenone (CAS number: 99-93-4).
  • the emollient consists of 2 parts of shea butter, 1 part of jojoba seed oil, 1 part of squalane (CAS number: 111-01-3), and 5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane in parts by weight. (CAS number: 9006-65-9), 2 parts of octyl polymethylsiloxane (CAS number: 17955-88-3) and 0.1 part of tocopherol acetate.
  • the shea butter was purchased from Shanghai Xierui Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the jojoba seed oil was purchased from Shanghai Fubo Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the tocopherol acetate was purchased from Shanghai Shangde Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the chelating agent was purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand was PHL.
  • the skin conditioner consists of 0.2 parts of allantoin (CAS number: 97-59-6), 0.2 parts of arginine (CAS number: 74-79-3) and 0.08 parts of rose oil in parts by weight.
  • the rose oil was purchased from Engle Flavors and Fragrances (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, which includes the following steps:
  • Aqueous pretreatment After adding thickener to deionized water and homogenizing at 20Hz, add moisturizer, allantoin, trehalose, hydrogenated lecithin and antioxidant, stir at 30Hz and heat to 83°C, add The sodium stearoyl glutamate;
  • Oil phase pretreatment stirring the other components of the emulsifier and emollient except the sodium stearyl glutamate and heating to 83°C at 25 Hz, and adding the golden button flower extract;
  • Post-treatment mix the water phase and the oil phase at 25Hz and homogenize for 10min, cool down to 45°C, add chelating agent, hydrolyzed soy protein, arginine and rose oil and stir at 30Hz, after sampling and testing pass, use 200
  • the cream is obtained after filtering with a mesh filter cloth.
  • Example 4 of the present invention provides a skin-care composition for firming skin.
  • the raw materials for the skin-care composition include 6.7 parts of emulsifier, 3 parts of golden button flower extract, and 0.2 parts of hydrogenated lecithin ( CAS number: 92128-87-5), 1 part of trehalose (CAS number: 99-20-7), 2.5 parts of hydrolyzed soy protein complex, 1 part of complex plant extract, 1 part of caffeine liposome and 2 parts Composition of trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex.
  • the emulsifier consists of 2 parts of glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate, 4.5 parts of cetearyl alcohol (CAS number: 67762-27-0) and 0.2 parts of stearoyl It is composed of sodium carboxylate (CAS number: 38517-23-6).
  • the glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate was purchased from Shanghai Gaowei Industrial Co., Ltd., and the brand was ARLACEL 170.
  • the golden button flower extract was purchased from Shanghai Puen Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., with the brand name Gatuline IN-Tense.
  • the hydrolyzed soy protein complex was purchased from Shanghai Yaolan Trading Co., Ltd., and the brand was firming and refreshing.
  • the compound plant extracts include aloe vera leaf extract and Italian cabbage extract, which are purchased from Shanghai Ruimu Chemical Technology Co., Ltd. under the brand name of BioDtox.
  • the caffeine liposomes were purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand name was LIPO COFFIN HERBASOME.
  • the trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex was purchased from Shanghai Zhirou Chemical Co., Ltd., with the brand name Progline.
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin-tightening skin care composition.
  • the preparation raw materials of the cream include 17.4% of the skin care composition, 0.4% thickener, 16% moisturizer, 0.2% by weight. % Antioxidants, 11.1% emollients, 1% chelating agents, 0.48% skin conditioners and the balance deionized water.
  • the thickener is carbomer (CAS number: 9007-20-9).
  • the moisturizer consists of 8 parts of methyl propylene glycol (CAS number: 2163-42-0) and 8 parts of 1,3-propanediol (CAS number: 504-63-2) in parts by weight.
  • the antioxidant is p-hydroxyacetophenone (CAS number: 99-93-4).
  • the emollient consists of 2 parts of shea butter, 1 part of jojoba seed oil, 1 part of squalane (CAS number: 111-01-3), and 5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane in parts by weight. (CAS number: 9006-65-9), 2 parts of octyl polymethylsiloxane (CAS number: 17955-88-3) and 0.1 part of tocopherol acetate.
  • the shea butter was purchased from Shanghai Xierui Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the jojoba seed oil was purchased from Shanghai Fubo Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the tocopherol acetate was purchased from Shanghai Shangde Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the chelating agent was purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand was PHL.
  • the skin conditioner consists of 0.2 parts of allantoin (CAS number: 97-59-6), 0.2 parts of arginine (CAS number: 74-79-3) and 0.08 parts of rose oil in parts by weight.
  • the rose oil was purchased from Engle Flavors and Fragrances (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, which includes the following steps:
  • Aqueous pretreatment After adding thickener to deionized water and homogenizing at 20Hz, add moisturizer, allantoin, trehalose, hydrogenated lecithin and antioxidant, stir at 30Hz and heat to 83°C, add The sodium stearoyl glutamate;
  • Oil phase pretreatment stirring the other components of the emulsifier and emollient except the sodium stearyl glutamate and heating to 83°C at 25 Hz, and adding the golden button flower extract;
  • Post-treatment mix the water phase and the oil phase at 25Hz and homogenize for 10min, cool to 45°C, add chelating agent, hydrolyzed soybean protein complex, arginine, compound plant extract, caffeine liposome, trifluoroacetyl
  • chelating agent hydrolyzed soybean protein complex
  • arginine hydrolyzed soybean protein complex
  • compound plant extract compound plant extract
  • caffeine liposome trifluoroacetyl
  • tripeptide-2 complex and rose flower oil were stirred at 30 Hz, and after sampling and testing were qualified, the cream was obtained after filtering with a 200-mesh filter cloth.
  • Example 5 of the present invention provides a skin care composition for firming skin.
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition include 4.16 parts of emulsifier, 2 parts of golden button flower extract, and 0.1 part of hydrogenated lecithin ( CAS number: 92128-87-5), 0.7 parts of trehalose (CAS number: 99-20-7), 2 parts of hydrolyzed soybean protein complex, 0.5 parts of complex plant extracts, 0.7 parts of caffeine liposomes and 1.2 parts Composition of trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex.
  • the emulsifier consists of 1 part of glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate, 3 parts of cetearyl alcohol (CAS number: 67762-27-0) and 0.16 parts of stearoyl It is composed of sodium carboxylate (CAS number: 38517-23-6).
  • the glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate was purchased from Shanghai Gaowei Industrial Co., Ltd., and the brand was ARLACEL 170.
  • the golden button flower extract was purchased from Shanghai Puen Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., with the brand name Gatuline IN-Tense.
  • the hydrolyzed soy protein complex was purchased from Shanghai Yaolan Trading Co., Ltd., and the brand was firming and refreshing.
  • the compound plant extracts include aloe vera leaf extract and Italian cabbage extract, which are purchased from Shanghai Ruimu Chemical Technology Co., Ltd. under the brand name of BioDtox.
  • the caffeine liposomes were purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand name was LIPO COFFIN HERBASOME.
  • the trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex was purchased from Shanghai Zhirou Chemical Co., Ltd., with the brand name Progline.
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin-tightening skin care composition.
  • the preparation raw materials of the cream include 11.36% of the skin care composition, 0.1% thickener, 15% moisturizer, 0.1% by weight. % Antioxidants, 8.1% emollients, 0.5% chelating agents, 0.2% skin conditioners and the balance deionized water.
  • the thickener is carbomer (CAS number: 9007-20-9).
  • the humectant is composed of 7.5 parts of methyl propylene glycol (CAS number: 2163-42-0) and 7.5 parts of 1,3-propanediol (CAS number: 504-53-2) in parts by weight.
  • the antioxidant is p-hydroxyacetophenone (CAS number: 99-93-4).
  • the emollient consists of 1 part of shea butter, 1 part of jojoba seed oil, 1 part of squalane (CAS number: 111-01-3), and 4 parts of polydimethylsiloxane in parts by weight. (CAS number: 9006-65-9), 1 part of octyl polymethylsiloxane (CAS number: 17955-88-3) and 0.1 part of tocopherol acetate.
  • the shea butter was purchased from Shanghai Xierui Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the jojoba seed oil was purchased from Shanghai Fubo Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the tocopherol acetate was purchased from Shanghai Shangde Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the chelating agent was purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand was PHL.
  • the skin conditioner consists of 0.05 parts of allantoin (CAS number: 97-59-6), 0.1 parts of arginine (CAS number: 74-79-3) and 0.05 parts of rose oil in parts by weight.
  • the rose oil was purchased from Engle Flavors and Fragrances (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, which includes the following steps:
  • Aqueous pretreatment After adding the thickener to deionized water and homogenizing at 15Hz, add moisturizer, allantoin, trehalose, hydrogenated lecithin and antioxidant, stir at 25Hz and heat to 80°C, add The sodium stearoyl glutamate;
  • Oil phase pretreatment stirring the other components of the emulsifier and emollient except the sodium stearyl glutamate and heating to 80°C at 20 Hz, and adding the golden button flower extract;
  • Post-treatment mix the water phase and the oil phase at 20Hz and homogenize for 8min, cool to 40°C, add chelating agent, hydrolyzed soybean protein complex, arginine, complex plant extract, caffeine liposome, trifluoroacetyl
  • chelating agent hydrolyzed soybean protein complex
  • arginine hydrolyzed soybean protein complex
  • complex plant extract complex plant extract
  • caffeine liposome trifluoroacetyl
  • tripeptide-2 complex and rose flower oil were stirred at 25 Hz, and after sampling and testing passed, the cream was obtained after filtering with a 200-mesh filter cloth.
  • Example 6 of the present invention provides a skin care composition for tightening skin.
  • the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition include 8.2 parts of emulsifier, 4 parts of golden button flower extract, 0.45 parts of hydrogenated lecithin ( CAS number: 92128-87-5), 1.5 parts of trehalose (CAS number: 99-20-7), 3 parts of hydrolyzed soybean protein complex, 2 parts of complex plant extract, 1 part of caffeine liposome and 3 parts Composition of trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex.
  • the emulsifier consists of 3 parts of glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate, 5 parts of cetostearyl alcohol (CAS number: 67762-27-0) and 0.2 parts of stearoyl It is composed of sodium carboxylate (CAS number: 38517-23-6).
  • the glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate was purchased from Shanghai Gaowei Industrial Co., Ltd., and the brand was ARLACEL 170.
  • the golden button flower extract was purchased from Shanghai Puen Biochemical Technology Co., Ltd., with the brand name Gatuline IN-Tense.
  • the hydrolyzed soy protein complex was purchased from Shanghai Yaolan Trading Co., Ltd., and the brand was firming and refreshing.
  • the compound plant extracts include aloe vera leaf extract and Italian cabbage extract, which are purchased from Shanghai Ruimu Chemical Technology Co., Ltd. under the brand name of BioDtox.
  • the caffeine liposomes were purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand name was LIPO COFFIN HERBASOME.
  • the trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex was purchased from Shanghai Zhirou Chemical Co., Ltd., with the brand name Progline.
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin tightening skin care composition.
  • the preparation raw materials of the cream include 23.15% of the skin care composition, 0.5% thickener, 20% moisturizer, 0.5% by weight. % Antioxidants, 19.3% emollients, 2% chelating agents, 0.8% skin conditioners and the balance deionized water.
  • the thickener is carbomer (CAS number: 9007-20-9).
  • the humectant is composed of 10 parts of methyl propylene glycol (CAS number: 2163-42-0) and 10 parts of 1,3-propanediol (CAS number: 504-53-2) in parts by weight.
  • the antioxidant is p-hydroxyacetophenone (CAS number: 99-93-4).
  • the emollient is based on parts by weight, consisting of 4 parts of shea butter, 3 parts of jojoba seed oil, 2 parts of squalane (CAS No. 111-01-3), and 6 parts of polydimethylsiloxane (CAS number: 9006-65-9), 4 parts of octyl polymethylsiloxane (CAS number: 17955-88-3) and 0.3 parts of tocopherol acetate.
  • the shea butter was purchased from Shanghai Xierui Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the jojoba seed oil was purchased from Shanghai Fubo Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the tocopherol acetate was purchased from Shanghai Shangde Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • the chelating agent was purchased from Shanghai Haoyun Chemical Co., Ltd., and the brand was PHL.
  • the skin conditioner consists of 0.3 parts of allantoin (CAS number: 97-59-6), 0.35 parts of arginine (CAS number: 74-79-3) and 0.15 parts of rose oil in parts by weight.
  • the rose oil was purchased from Engle Flavors and Fragrances (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, which includes the following steps:
  • Aqueous phase pretreatment After adding the thickener to deionized water and homogenizing at 25Hz, add moisturizer, allantoin, trehalose, hydrogenated lecithin and antioxidant, stir at 35Hz and heat to 85°C, add The sodium stearoyl glutamate;
  • Oil phase pretreatment stir the other components of the emulsifier and emollient except the sodium stearyl glutamate and heat to 85°C at 30 Hz, and add the golden button flower extract;
  • Post-treatment mix the water phase and the oil phase at 30Hz and homogenize for 15min, cool to 50°C, add chelating agent, hydrolyzed soybean protein complex, arginine, complex plant extract, caffeine liposome, trifluoroacetyl
  • chelating agent hydrolyzed soybean protein complex
  • arginine hydrolyzed soybean protein complex
  • complex plant extract complex plant extract
  • caffeine liposome trifluoroacetyl
  • tripeptide-2 complex and rose flower oil were stirred at 35 Hz, and after sampling and testing passed, the cream was obtained after filtering with a 200-mesh filter cloth.
  • Example 7 of the present invention provides a skin care composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight of the sodium stearyl glutamate is 1.5 parts.
  • This example provides a facial cream, including the skin tightening skin care composition, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight percentage of the skin care composition is 18.7%.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 8 of the present invention provides a skincare composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate is replaced by Polyethylene glycol laurate (CAS number: 31943-11-0).
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin tightening skin care composition.
  • the specific implementation is the same as in Example 4.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 9 of the present invention provides a skincare composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the sodium stearyl glutamate is replaced with sodium lauryl sulfate (CAS Number: 151-21-3).
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin tightening skin care composition.
  • the specific implementation is the same as in Example 4.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 10 of the present invention provides a skin care composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the preparation raw material of the skin care composition does not add hydrogenated lecithin.
  • This example provides a facial cream, including the skin tightening skin care composition, and its specific implementation is the same as that in Example 4, except that the weight percentage of the skin care composition is 17.2%.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 11 of the present invention provides a skin care composition for firming skin, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the preparation raw material of the skin care composition does not add trehalose.
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin tightening skin care composition.
  • the specific implementation is the same as in Example 4, except that the weight percentage of the skin care composition is 16.4%.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 12 of the present invention provides a skincare composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight of the trehalose is 3 parts.
  • This example provides a facial cream, including the skin tightening skin care composition, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight percentage of the skin care composition is 19.4%.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 13 of the present invention provides a skin-care composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight of the hydrolyzed soy protein complex is 6.
  • This example provides a facial cream comprising the skin tightening skin care composition.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight percentage of the skin care composition is 20.9%.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 14 of the present invention provides a skincare composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight part of the composite plant extract is 0.1 part.
  • This example provides a facial cream including the skin tightening skin care composition.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight percentage of the skin care composition is 16.5%.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 15 of the present invention provides a skin care composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the preparation raw materials of the skin care composition do not add complex plant extracts and caffeine. Liposomes.
  • This example provides a facial cream, including the skin tightening skin care composition, and its specific implementation is the same as that in Example 4, except that the weight percentage of the skin care composition is 15.4%.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 16 of the present invention provides a skincare composition for firming skin.
  • the specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4, except that the weight of the trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 complex is 5 parts. .
  • This example provides a facial cream, including the skin tightening skin care composition, and its specific implementation is the same as in Example 4, except that the weight percentage of the skin care composition is 20.4%.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Example 17 of the present invention provides a face cream, the specific implementation of which is the same as that of Example 4, except that the preparation raw material of the face cream does not include the skin care composition.
  • This example also provides a preparation method of the cream, and its specific implementation is the same as that of Example 4.
  • Stability test Take the creams provided in Examples 1-17 as samples for stability test:
  • Heat resistance test Put the sample in an electric heating constant temperature incubator at (40 ⁇ 1)°C for 24h. After returning to room temperature, observe whether there is any thinning, discoloration, delamination and hardness changes to determine the heat resistance of the sample performance;
  • Centrifugal test Put the sample in a centrifuge and test for 30 minutes at a speed of (2000 ⁇ 4000) r/min to observe the separation and stratification of the sample to judge the mechanical stability of the sample.
  • the samples are rated according to the phenomenon of thinning, discoloration, delamination and hardness changes before and after the test, and are divided into 0 to 4 levels, of which 0 is no thinning, discoloration, delamination and hardness changes, and 1 is slight thinning , Discoloration, no delamination and hardness change, level 2 is increased discoloration and thinning, no delamination, slightly changed hardness, level 3 is slightly delamination, hardness change increased, level 4 is obvious delamination And the hardness changes, the heat resistance, cold resistance and mechanical stability of the composition are obtained. The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Sensitivity test The creams provided in Examples 1-17 were subjected to sensitivity test.
  • the specific test method is as follows: Individuals with oily skin and sensitive skin were selected for patch test. The skin of the subjects should not have scars or scars. Or have too much hair, have a known history of severe allergies, or have severe allergies to cosmetics and cannot participate; and use the creams provided in Examples 1-16 to evaluate the sensitivity of the skin of the test site of people with oily skin and sensitive skin.
  • the indicators are: itching, tightness, irritation, redness, dryness, inflammation, and are divided into 0 to 4 levels.
  • the index levels are as follows: level 0: no sensitive reaction; level 1: dry skin with slight itching; 2 Grade: Slight redness of the skin and increased pruritus; Grade 3: weak erythema, a small amount of red blood streaks; Grade 4: massive erythema, a lot of red blood streaks, and inflammation.
  • level 0 no sensitive reaction
  • level 1 dry skin with slight itching
  • Grade 3 weak erythema, a small amount of red blood streaks
  • Grade 4 massive erythema, a lot of red blood streaks, and inflammation.
  • the results are shown in Table 1.
  • Test method The human body uses the creams provided in Examples 1-17 for a single time and the pores of the subjects are detected by the instrument (VISIA-CR). Normal skin (large pores on the face) is selected, and there is no significant difference in the pores of the left and right sides of the face. There were 33 healthy female subjects, ranging in age from 25 to 55 years old. According to the image analysis results and evaluation results before and after use, the statistical test method is used to compare to determine whether there are statistical differences.
  • Test environment The test environment is a temperature of 20.0°C ⁇ 21.8°C, and a relative humidity of 48.0% ⁇ 54.0%.
  • Test indicators measure the front of the face, 45 degrees on the left, and 45 degrees on the right.
  • Test procedure The subject cleans the face with facial cleansing products, and wipes the skin dry with dry facial tissues, sits quietly in a laboratory at a temperature of 21 ⁇ 1°C and 50 ⁇ 5% RH for 30 minutes; facial image capture (VISIA-CR); subject Using the creams provided in Examples 1-17, the facial image was taken again (VISIA-CR) after 15 minutes of use.
  • Sensory test perform sensory test on the creams provided in Examples 1-17.
  • the specific test method is as follows: before using the sample, the user uses the same mild cleansing product to clean his face, then wipes toner and moisturizer, and Apply the cream provided in Examples 1-17.
  • the frequency of use is once in the morning for continuous daily use.
  • the trial period is 2 weeks.
  • Sensory evaluation is performed.
  • the main evaluation indicators are wrinkle removal and anti-aging effects, and they are divided into 1 to 5 levels. Among them, level 1 is no improvement, level 2 is not obvious improvement, level 3 is general improvement, level 4 is good improvement, and level 5 is significant improvement. The results are shown in Table 2.
  • the cream provided in Example 4 is a light yellow and delicate cream
  • the relative density of the cream provided in Example 4 is 1.00 g/cm 3 at 20°C according to the GB T13531.4-2013 relative density measurement method using a density meter;
  • the skin tightening skin care composition provided by the present invention has high heat resistance, cold resistance and mechanical resistance, and the skin care product containing the skin care composition of the present invention is used. It will not cause skin irritation and is also suitable for people with sensitive skin and oily skin. It has excellent skin tightening, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging effects, and will not recur.

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Abstract

一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物及其制备方法。所述护肤组合物的制备原料包括乳化剂和金纽扣花提取物;所述乳化剂包括硬脂酸酯类和硬脂醇类乳化剂。该紧致肌肤用护肤组合物具有优异的紧致肌肤、抗皱、抗衰老的功效,且具有高的耐热、耐寒和耐机械稳定性;可应用于多种护肤品中,且不会刺激皮肤,对于油性皮肤和敏感皮肤同样适用。

Description

一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物及其制备方法 技术领域
本发明涉及护肤品领域,更具体地,本发明涉及一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着年龄的增长以及环境污染和生活压力的加大,皮肤衰老问题越来越明显,抗衰老作用的护肤品也越来越受到人们的重视。皮肤衰老通常表现为皮肤弹性降低、毛孔变大、皮肤皱纹加多、皮肤的粗糙度增加等。日常生活中仅仅使用保湿类护肤品对于预防皮肤衰老显然是不够的,还需要具有紧致肌肤、增强皮肤弹性的产品。但目前的护肤品对于紧致肌肤、提高皮肤弹性的性能还待提高,且稳定性还需较大的增加。本发明提供一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,可应用在多种护肤品中,在提供紧致肌肤、抗皱和抗衰老的效果的同时,也具有高的稳定性,且适用于各种肤质的人群。
发明内容
为了解决上述问题,本发明第一个方面提供了一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述护肤组合物的制备原料包括乳化剂和金纽扣花提取物;所述乳化剂选自硬脂酸酯类、硬脂醇类、硬脂基葡糖苷类乳化剂中的一种或多种。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述乳化剂还包括硬脂酰谷氨酸盐;所述硬脂酰谷氨酸盐占所述乳化剂的2~4wt%。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述硬脂酰谷氨酸盐占所述金纽扣花提取物的3~10wt%。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述护肤组合物的制备原料还包括氢化卵磷脂、海藻糖和水解大豆蛋白复合物。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述海藻糖和所述水解大豆蛋白复合物的重量比为1:(2~3)。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述护肤组合物的制备原料还包括复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物的重量比为1:(0.5~1.5):(1.5~2.5)。
本发明第二个方面提供了一种所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物的应用,应用于护肤品中;所述护肤品选自水剂、乳液、面霜、眼霜、洁面乳、面膜、BB霜、精纯液、防晒霜、防晒水、痤疮水、粉刺露、洁面水、洁面露、精油、香波,保湿水、爽肤水、收敛水、柔肤水中的一种或多种。
作为本发明一种优选的技术方案,所述护肤品为面霜;所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括9~25%所述护肤组合物、0.1~0.5%增稠剂、15~20%保湿剂、0~0.5%抗氧化剂、8~20%润肤剂、0.5~2%螯合剂、0.2~0.8%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
本发明第三个方面提供了一种面霜的制备方法,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括9~25%所述护肤组合物、0.1~0.5%增稠剂、15~20%保湿剂、0~0.5%抗氧化剂、8~20%润肤剂、0.5~2%螯合剂、0.2~0.8%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水;
所述面霜的制备方法包括如下步骤:
水相预处理:将增稠剂和去离子水均质后,加入保湿剂、抗氧化剂和一半重量份的皮肤调理剂,搅拌并加热;
油相预处理:将除硬脂酰谷氨酸盐外的所述乳化剂和润肤剂搅拌并加热后,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
后处理:将水相和油相混合均质并降温,加入螯合剂、余量的皮肤调理剂以及除海藻糖、氢化卵磷脂和乳化剂外的所述护肤组合物的其他组分并搅拌,过滤后得到所述面霜。
本发明与现有技术相比具有以下有益效果:本发明提供的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物具有优异的紧致肌肤、抗皱、抗衰老的功效,且具有高的耐热、耐寒和耐机械稳定性;可应用于多种护肤品中,且不会刺激皮肤,对于油性皮肤和敏感皮肤同样适用。
具体实施方式
参选以下本发明的优选实施方法的详述以及包括的实施例可更容易地理解本发明的内容。除非另有限定,本文使用的所有技术以及科学术语具有与本发明所属领域普通技术人员通常理解的相同的含义。当存在矛盾时,以本说明书中的定义为准。
如本文所用术语“由…制备”与“包含”同义。本文中所用的术语“包含”、“包括”、“具有”、“含有”或其任何其它变形,意在覆盖非排它性的包括。例如,包含所列要素的组合物、步骤、方法、制品或装置不必仅限于那些要素,而是可以包括未明确列出的其它要素或此种组合物、步骤、方法、制品或装置所固有的要素。
连接词“由…组成”排除任何未指出的要素、步骤或组分。如果用于权利要求中,此短语将使权利要求为封闭式,使其不包含除那些描述的材料以外的材料,但与其相关的常规杂质除外。当短语“由…组成”出现在权利要求主体的子句中而不是紧接在主题之后时,其仅限定在该子句中描述的要素;其它要素并不被排除在作为整体的所述权利要求之外。
当量、浓度、或者其它值或参数以范围、优选范围、或一系列上限优选值和下限优选值限定的范围表示时,这应当被理解为具体公开了由任何范围上限或优选值与任何范围下限或优选值的任一配对所形成的所有范围,而不论该范围是否单独公开了。例如,当公开了范围“1至5”时,所描述的范围应被解释为包括范围“1至4”、“1至3”、“1至2”、“1至2和4至5”、“1至3和5”等。当数值范围在本文中被描述时,除非另外说明,否则该范围意图包括其端值和在该范围内的所有整数和分数。
单数形式包括复数讨论对象,除非上下文中另外清楚地指明。“任选的”或者“任意一种”是指其后描述的事项或事件可以发生或不发生,而且该描述包括事件发生的情形和事件不发生的情形。
说明书和权利要求书中的近似用语用来修饰数量,表示本发明并不限定于该具体数量,还包括与该数量接近的可接受的而不会导致相关基本功能的改变的修正的部分。相应的,用“大约”、“约”等修饰一个数值,意为本发明不限于该精确数值。在某些例子中,近似用语可能对应于测量数值的仪器的精度。在本申请说明书和权利要求书中,范围限定可以组合和/或互换,如果没有另外说明这些范围包括其间所含有的所有子范围。
此外,本发明要素或组分前的不定冠词“一种”和“一个”对要素或组分的数量要求(即出现次数)无限制性。因此“一个”或“一种”应被解读为包括一个或至少一个,并且单数形式的要素或组分也包括复数形式,除非所述数量明显旨指单数形式。
以下通过具体实施方式说明本发明,但不局限于以下给出的具体实施例。
本发明第一个方面提供了一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述护肤组合物的制备原料包括乳化剂和金纽扣花提取物;所述乳化剂包括硬脂酸酯类和硬脂醇类乳化剂。
乳化剂
本发明所述乳化剂选自硬脂酸酯类、硬脂醇类、硬脂基葡糖苷类乳化剂中的一种或多种。
作为硬脂酸酯类乳化剂的实例,包括但不限于,聚乙二醇硬脂酸酯类、甘油硬脂酸酯类、聚氧乙烯硬脂酸酯类乳化剂。
作为硬脂醇类乳化剂的实例,包括但不限于,鲸蜡硬脂醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚类、鲸蜡硬脂醇酯类乳化剂。
作为硬脂基葡糖苷类乳化剂的的实例,包括但不限于,鲸蜡基硬脂基葡糖苷、异硬脂基葡糖苷。
优选地,本发明所述乳化剂为硬脂酸酯类和/或硬脂醇类乳化剂。
更优选地,本发明所述乳化剂包括甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯和鲸蜡硬脂醇。
由于组合物以及护肤品中的各个成分的结构、溶解性、扩散性等性能之间存在较大的差异,在制备膏、霜、乳液等各类护肤品时各成分不容易很好的分散,得到的护肤品在高温或低温等特定的条件下容易出现团聚、结块等问题。申请人发现通过对组合物中的乳化剂的具体成分、用量比例等参数进行设置,从而调控组合物和护肤品在特定条件下的稳定性,避免组合物和护肤品在高温或低温等条件下出现结块、变稀等不稳定情况。申请人发现乳化剂采用硬脂酸酯类、硬脂醇类、硬脂基葡糖苷类乳化剂等,尤其是甘油硬脂酸酯、PEG-100硬脂酸酯和鲸蜡硬脂醇时容易得到比较稳定的护肤品,可能是由于这些成分中亲水端与疏水端的相互作用,形成大小合适,结构较为稳定的胶束,并且将组合物和护肤品中的其它成分通过这些胶束很好的分散在一起,形成稳定的乳粒,从而使组合物具有好的稳定性。
优选地,本发明所述乳化剂还包括硬脂酰谷氨酸盐;所述硬脂酰谷氨酸盐占所述乳化剂的2~4wt%。
更优选地,本发明所述硬脂酰谷氨酸盐为硬脂酰谷氨酸钠。
申请人发现乳化剂中含有一定量的硬脂酰谷氨酸盐能够进一步提高组合物的稳定性,使含有该组合物的护肤品在高温、低温或较强的离心力作用下能够保持稳定的结构,不容易发生凝聚、结块等技术问题。这可能是由于硬脂酸酯类和硬脂醇类乳化剂均为非离子结构,虽然利用其亲疏水结构能够形成胶束以分散体系中其它组分,但是由于相邻的胶束之间也有较强的亲和性和吸附性,因此体系从外界获得足够的活化能之后,容易导致各个胶束乳粒之间出现团聚结块等问题。而加入一定量的硬脂酰谷氨酸盐可以提高胶束的壁厚,使其对外界环境的敏感度降低,同时硬脂酰谷氨酸盐的加入可能改变胶束的表面电荷分布,因同种电荷的相斥作用而避免相邻胶束之间的团聚。
然而申请人发现需要对硬脂酰谷氨酸盐的用量进行严格调控,其用量过高或过低均会使组合物和护肤品的稳定性下降。这可能是由于硬脂酰谷氨酸盐的加入能改变胶束的结构,而由于其用量不合适导致胶束的结构破坏,反而变得松散,出现不稳定情况。同时,申请人发现将硬脂酰谷氨酸盐替换成其它常规的阴离子型表面活性剂不能取得相同的效果,可能是因为在本发明中硬脂酰谷氨酸盐对组合物的稳定作用还与其碳链结构有关。
金纽扣花提取物
本发明所述金纽扣花提取物,富含异丁基酰胺和极具活性的千日菊素,通过对真皮层成纤维细胞与胶原蛋白网络的相互作用,激发成纤维细胞的天然活力和生物力学功能,从而重整真皮的结构,使皮肤的密度和紧实度迅速提升,降低皮肤的粗糙度,促进肌肤平滑,快速减少眼角鱼尾纹,具有显效的抗皱作用。且金纽扣花提取物具有抗菌和美白作用。本发明所述金纽扣花提取物还含有少量辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯。
优选地,本发明所述金纽扣花提取物购自上海浦恩生化科技有限公司,牌号为Gatuline IN-Tense。
申请人发现,在上述组合物中加入一定量的金钮扣花提取物可以使组合物具有显著的减少表情纹,提高肌肤平滑紧致度的作用。金钮扣花提取物中含有一定量的辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯成分,能够有助于将金钮扣花提取物分散在组合物和护肤品中,而金钮扣花提取物中富含大量的烷基酰胺类化合物成分能够被肌肤吸收, 刺激成纤维细胞的生物动力学功能,有助于重整真皮结构,利用这些烷基酰胺类化合物中酰胺键等强极性基团与肌肤细胞之间强的吸附作用,提高真皮层的厚度,强化真皮层结构,从而避免肌肤松弛、出现皱纹等问题,使肌肤具有较好的平滑紧致感。
优选地,本发明所述硬脂酰谷氨酸盐占所述金纽扣花提取物的3~10wt%。
申请人意外发现当组合物中不包含特定量的硬脂酰谷氨酸盐时,组合物对肌肤的平滑紧致感,以及抗皱纹的效果不显著,而且需要长期服用之后才有一定的效果,当含有金钮扣花提取物重量3~10wt%左右的硬脂酰谷氨酸盐时组合物的上述功效得到显著提升,可能是硬脂酰谷氨酸盐对金钮扣花提取物对皮肤内部的渗透和被肌肤细胞的吸收等有着较大的影响,组合物中缺少硬脂酰谷氨酸盐时金钮扣花提取物可能停留在表皮层中不易渗透到真皮层,或者其吸收较慢,需要较长的时间才能刺激足够多的细胞活力,起到较为显著的功效。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述护肤组合物的制备原料还包括氢化卵磷脂、海藻糖和水解大豆蛋白复合物。
氢化卵磷脂
本发明所述氢化卵磷脂是卵磷脂在催化剂的作用下加氢形成的一种稳定的物质。卵磷脂是人体每一个细胞不可缺少的物质,如果缺乏,就会降低皮肤细胞的再生能力,导致皮肤粗糙、有皱纹。如能适当摄取卵磷脂,皮肤再生活力就可以保障,再加上卵磷脂良好的亲水性和亲油性,皮肤当然就有光泽了。且卵磷脂分子双层排列,形成一个选择性、保护性屏障,控制细胞生命,对活化细胞、维持新陈代谢、抗氧化损伤、晒后修复、健美肌肤、延缓衰老起着非常重要的作用。氢化卵磷脂完好的保留了卵磷脂的活性成分,且稳定性和乳化性得到提高,具有较强的亲水性和保湿性,对皮肤和黏膜有很强的亲和力,用于化妆品的配方中可起到保湿、乳化和分散、抗氧化等作用;且氢化卵磷脂还可作为表面活性剂,调理皮肤,使之达到一个很好的油水平衡效果,更好地吸收营养,可应用在多种化妆品中。
海藻糖
本发明所述海藻糖是一种安全、可靠的天然糖类。海藻糖能有效地保护表皮细胞膜结构,活化细胞,调理肌肤,令肌肤健康自然、有弹性。海藻糖能够在细 胞表层形成一层特殊的保护膜表皮细胞,避免细胞在高温、高寒、干燥、强紫外线辐射等环境下失去水分而使皮肤受损,保持皮肤原有营养和水分,避免皮肤晒伤及黑色素沉淀,有效抵抗皮肤老化;且从膜上析出的粘液可温和滋润肌肤,还可将外来的热量辐射出去,从而保护皮肤不致受损使肌肤莹亮、光泽、柔嫩。
优选地,本发明所述氢化卵磷脂占所述海藻糖的重量百分比为15~30wt%。
水解大豆蛋白复合物
本发明所述水解大豆蛋白复合物包含水解大豆蛋白,水解大豆蛋白富含羟脯氨酸糖肽,羟脯氨酸可促进皮肤胶原蛋白的形成,从而促进皮肤光滑紧致,同时,水解大豆蛋白有高效保湿作用,有助于诱导肌肤产生透明质酸,而当人体肌肤透明质酸的含量日渐减少时,代表肌肤的成熟和老化过程正在发生,水解大豆蛋白,以诱导元的角色,增加肌肤透明质酸的浓度,以达到高效保湿的效果。本发明所述水解大豆蛋白复合物还包含阿拉伯胶树胶和黄原胶,本发明不对所述水解大豆蛋白复合物具体成分的含量做进一步限定。
优选地,本发明所述海藻糖和所述水解大豆蛋白复合物的重量比为1:(2~3)。
申请人发现,虽然1,3-丙二醇、甲基丙二醇等小分子醇和对羟基苯乙酮等活性成分能够快速渗透进肌肤角质层,与肌肤细胞组织发生反应,从而起到快速保湿、调理肌肤等功效,但是由于上述成分与肌肤之间的作用力太过强烈,组合物使用时肌肤可能会产生较强的应激反应,尤其是油性肌肤、敏感肌肤对组合物中小分子醇、对羟基苯乙酮等成分比较敏感,容易引起肌肤红肿、过敏,引起大面积痘痘等副反应。故申请人将护肤组合物中加入一定量的水解大豆蛋白复合物、氢化卵磷脂和海藻糖等,能够调和组合物的活性,在保证组合物使肌肤具有弹性、紧致的同时,对油性肌肤和敏感肌肤等也能温和起效,避免由于护肤品中高浓度高活性化学成分直接与肌肤接触,从而引起过敏、红肿等一系列的副反应。这可能是由于氢化卵磷脂、海藻糖特殊的分子结构,使得氢化卵磷脂由于其较强的亲疏水性而可以形成胶束结构,在与海藻糖的多羟基糖苷结构之间的作用下,形成空间网络结构,结构中的羟基、磷酸基等基团利用分子间的氢键等作用力而形成不同大小的空腔结构,将护肤品中的小分子醇等高活性化学成分包覆起来,避免高浓度的活性成分直接与肌肤接触,而是随着护肤品渗透进肌肤并被肌肤细胞组 织的吸收,从而缓慢释放,起到相应功效的同时,避免过敏等反应。
此外,水解大豆蛋白复合物中含有水解大豆蛋白、阿拉伯胶树胶和黄原胶等成分,由于这些成分的分子结构上含有较多的羟基、氨基等极性基团,分子内氢键等作用力很强,导致这些分子容易形成较致密的聚集态结构,不容易渗透进肌肤内部,吸收速度较慢,而通过与氢化卵磷脂、海藻糖等成分之间特定用量比例复配,能在一定程度上减弱分子内的作用力,从而使上述成分的分子链得到进一步舒展,能更好的亲附肌肤组织,更快的被肌肤细胞吸收,提高角质层厚度与弹性,从而有助于提升肌肤的紧致感,减少皱纹的产生。
更优选地,本发明所述水解大豆蛋白复合物购自上海尧兰贸易有限公司,牌号为紧肤醒。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述护肤组合物的制备原料还包括复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物。
复合植物提取物
本发明所述复合植物提取物包括库拉索芦荟叶提取物和意大利甘蓝提取物。
库拉索芦荟叶提取物显示了多方面的生物活性,是化妆品重要的添加剂,具有优异的活化肌肤、抗氧化的作用,可促进纤维蛋白的增长、胶原蛋白的合成且可清除自由基;对胆甾醇合成有促进作用,有助于改变皮脂的组成,减少油光和增加皮肤的柔润程度;同时具有抗菌消炎和保湿的作用。
意大利甘蓝提取物从意大利甘蓝中提取所得,可促进创伤面愈合。在护肤品中,具有抗氧化、抗皱、抗应激的作用,可帮助修复受损肌肤。
优选地,本发明所述复合植物提取物购自上海瑞慕化工科技有限公司,牌号为BioDtox。
申请人发现,本发明所述复合植物提取物中可能含有蒽醌类化合物、芦荟多糖、生物类黄酮、生物碱等多种成分,而这些成分有助于从毛孔中渗透进肌肤内部,并且清洁毛孔中的污物和油脂,同时被肌肤组织吸收后有助于调节皮脂腺的分泌,避免皮脂腺分泌过多油脂造成油脂堵塞毛孔,甚至引起毛孔发炎而出现毛孔粗大等问题。
咖啡因脂质体
本发明所述咖啡因脂质体包含咖啡因。咖啡因中含有抗氧化剂等活性成分, 可以帮助抵抗和抑制自由基,从而改善皮肤老化问题并防止泛红,修护因紫外线而损伤的肌肤,从而改善肤色。且咖啡因可以使脂肪细胞脱水,从而减少皮肤表面的脂肪粒,起到平滑肌肤的作用。
本发明所述咖啡因脂质体还含有烟酰胺、卵磷脂、苯氧乙醇等成分,利用卵磷脂等成分的亲疏水性特点,将咖啡因等包裹在卵磷脂形成的胶束中,避免咖啡因等的结构过早改变而失效的同时,利用卵磷脂与肌肤组织之间较好的亲附性和相互作用力,加快这些成分往肌肤内部的渗透和被肌肤组织的吸收,而这些成分的吸收则加快消脂去水肿速度,改善肌肤状态。
优选地,本发明所述咖啡因脂质体购自上海皓云化工有限公司,牌号为LIPO COFFIN HERBASOME。
三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物
本发明所述三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物包含三氟乙酰三肽-2。三氟乙酰三肽-2是一种三个氨基酸组成的活性多肽,其序列为N-(2,2,2-三氟乙酰基)-Val-Tyr-Val-OH,由于其特殊的分子结构,以及其与肌肤组织环境的亲附性,能够被肌肤细胞组织吸收,抑制MMP-1刺激ECM的生成,延缓肌肤细胞的衰老和肌肤褶皱老化。本发明所述三氟乙酰三肽还包含少量的甘油和葡聚糖。
优选地,本发明所述三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物购自上海至柔化工有限公司,牌号为Progline。
更优选地,本发明所述复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物的重量比为1:(0.5~1.5):(1.5~2.5)。
申请人发现当组合物中加入一定量的复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物时,所得的组合物具有很好的平滑紧致肌肤,快速消脂去水肿的作用,还能显著改善肌肤弹性,去除皱纹。尤其是当所述复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物的重量比例为1:(0.5~1.5):(1.5~2.5)时,组合物的上述性能尤为显著。
这是因为当所述复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物的重量比例在一定范围时,组合物中的相应成分的协同作用达到最佳的平衡,复合植物提取物能够清洁和软化角质层,在缩小毛孔的同时进一步加快咖啡因脂质体向肌肤内部的渗透,而咖啡因脂质体利用卵磷脂的包覆作用而提高活性以及渗透 性的同时,利用卵磷脂与肌肤组织结构上的相似性在渗透过程中能够可逆改变肌肤结构,也有助于促进三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物的吸收,在这些成分的协同作用之下组合物快速被肌肤组织吸收,从而强化肌肤真皮层结构,促进胶原蛋白的生成,并在肌肤中相应酶等的作用下形成交联空间网络,提高肌肤的弹性,去除皱纹。使肌肤平滑紧致。
本发明第二个方面提供了一种所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物的应用,应用于护肤品中;所述护肤品选自水剂、乳液、面霜、眼霜、洁面乳、面膜、BB霜、精纯液、防晒霜、防晒水、痤疮水、粉刺露、洁面水、洁面露、精油、香波,保湿水、爽肤水、收敛水、柔肤水中的一种或多种。
本发明所述乳液、面霜为液态霜类化妆品;所述洁面乳、洁面水、洁面露一般指由油相物、水相物、表面活性剂、保湿剂、营养剂等成分构成的液状产品,包括但不限于洗面奶、洁面膏、洁肤液。所述面膜是美容保养品的一种载体,包括但不限于泥膏型、撕拉型、冻胶型、湿纸巾型面膜。所述BB霜指Blemish Balm,作用包括但不限于遮瑕、调整肤色、防晒、细致毛孔;所述精纯液指包含浓缩的高营养物质,包括但不限于精华液、精华露、精华面膜、精华素针剂、精华素胶囊等形式;所述防晒霜为添加了能阻隔或吸收紫外线的防晒剂来达到防止肌肤被晒黑、晒伤的化妆品;所述痤疮水为具有治疗痤疮功效的液态物质;所述粉刺露为具有治疗粉刺功能的液态物质。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述护肤品为面霜;所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括9~25%所述护肤组合物、0.1~0.5%增稠剂、15~20%保湿剂、0~0.5%抗氧化剂、8~20%润肤剂、0.5~2%螯合剂、0.2~0.8%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
本发明提供的面霜为白色至淡黄色细腻膏体,符合规定香气(玫瑰),pH值在5.50~6.50范围内,20℃下的相对密度为1.00±0.02g/cm 3
本发明所述pH值是根据GB T13531.1-2008pH的测定方法,通过pH计测试得到。
本发明所述相对密度根据GB T13531.4-2013相对密度的测定方法,使用密度计测试得到。
增稠剂
优选地,本发明所述增稠剂选自丙烯酸酯、烷基甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物或其盐、羧基乙烯基聚合物或其盐、藻酸盐、藻酸的多元醇酯、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮、聚乙烯醇、丙烯酸钠、三聚磷酸钠、卡拉胶、卡波姆、黄原胶和羟丙基纤维素中的一种或多种。
保湿剂
优选地,本发明所述保湿剂选自多元醇类、天然多糖类、亲水性合成高分子类、甜菜碱类保湿剂中的一种或多种。
作为多元醇类保湿剂的实例,包括但不限于,甘油、1,3-丙二醇、2-甲基-1,3-丙二醇、1,4-丁二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,5-戊二醇、双甘油、赤藓醇、葡糖酸、1,2,6-己三醇、肌醇、乳糖醇、麦芽糖醇、甘露糖醇、木糖醇、海藻糖等。
作为天然多糖类保湿剂的实例,包括但不限于,透明质酸、乙酰透明质酸、肝素、聚葡糖醛酸、软骨素、硫酸软骨素、果胶以及适当情形下它们的碱金属盐。
作为亲水性合成高分子类保湿剂的实例,包括但不限于,聚(2-甲基丙烯酰氧基乙基磷酸胆碱)、聚(2-甲基丙烯酰氧基乙基磷酰基-CO-甲基丙烯酰胺)。
作为甜菜碱类保湿剂的实例,包括但不限于,甜菜碱及其衍生物、以及对应的磺基甜菜碱(甜菜碱的羧基置换为磺基)的两性离子化合物所包含的任意化合物。可以列举的有,癸基甜菜碱、月桂基甜菜碱、肉豆蔻基甜菜碱、鲸蜡基甜菜碱、硬脂酰甜菜碱、山萮基甜菜碱、月桂酰胺丙基甜菜碱、油酰胺丙基甜菜碱、棕榈酰胺丙基甜菜碱、月桂基磺基甜菜碱、椰油基磺基甜菜碱、聚(甲基丙烯酰氧基乙基甜菜碱)、聚(甲基丙烯酰氧基乙基甜菜碱-共-2-羟乙基甲基丙烯酸)。
更优选地,本发明所述保湿剂包括甲基丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇和甜菜碱。
抗氧化剂
抗氧化剂选自油溶性抗氧化剂、水溶性抗氧化剂和含有抗氧化剂的天然提取物中的一种或多种。
作为水溶性抗氧化剂的实例,包括但不限于,巯基化合物及其衍生物、硫辛酸和二氢硫辛酸、白藜芦醇、乙酰-半胱氨酸、乳铁传递蛋白,抗坏血酸及其衍生物。
作为油溶性抗氧化剂的实例,包括但不局限于,丁基化羟基甲苯、类视黄醇、生育三烯酚和泛醌。
作为含有抗氧化剂的天然提取物的实例,包括但不局限于,含有类黄酮和类异黄酮及其衍生物的提取物、含有白藜芦醇的提取物等。
润肤剂
优选地,本发明所述润肤剂选自环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛基聚甲基硅氧烷、生育酚乙酸酯、环己硅氧烷、癸二酸二异丙酯、碳酸二辛酯、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、异十二烷、异壬酸异壬酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯、牛油果树果脂、霍霍巴籽油、角鲨烷、矿脂、PEG-7橄榄油羧酸钠中的一种或多种。
更优选地,本发明所述润肤剂包括牛油果树果脂、霍霍巴籽油、角鲨烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛基聚甲基硅氧烷和生育酚乙酸酯。
螯合剂
优选地,本发明所述螯合剂选自乙二胺四烷基酸钠盐、柠檬酸及其盐、磷酸盐、羟乙二膦酸及其盐和辛酰羟肟酸中的一种或多种。
更优选地,本发明所述螯合剂为辛酰羟肟酸。
本发明所述辛酰羟肟酸还含有1,3-丙二醇、1,2-己二醇。作为多功能添加剂可用于护肤品中,除作为螯合剂外,还具有保湿、润肤、抗敏、抗氧化及防腐作用。在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述螯合剂购自上海浩云化工有限公司,牌号为PHL。
皮肤调理剂
本发明不对皮肤调理剂做进一步限定,在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述皮肤调理剂包括尿囊素、精氨酸和玫瑰花油。
尿囊素是一种两性化合物,可结合多种物质形成复盐,具有避光、杀菌防腐、止痛、抗氧化作用,具有保护组织、亲水、吸水和防止水分散发等作用,能使皮肤保持水份,滋润和柔软,广泛用于雀斑霜、粉刺液、香波、香皂、牙膏、刮脸洗剂、护发剂、收敛剂、抗汗除臭洗剂等。且尿囊素能促进组织生长,细胞新陈代谢,软化角质层蛋白。
精氨酸属于碱性氨基酸,可与保湿作用的果酸、海藻糖等协同作用,可保持皮肤水分,柔滑肌肤。精氨酸也是最常用的化妆品营养性助剂。
玫瑰花油属于高级浓缩香精,能够提高产品的香味,掩盖不良气味;具有清除自由基的作用,说明可以用作抗氧化剂,防止衰老;能增强细胞活性,有活肤 作用;对酪氨酸酶也有一定的抑制作用,可以辅助美白。
本发明第三个方面提供了一种面霜的制备方法,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括9~25%所述护肤组合物、0.1~0.5%增稠剂、15~20%保湿剂、0~0.5%抗氧化剂、8~20%润肤剂、0.5~2%螯合剂、0.2~0.8%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水;
所述面霜的制备方法包括如下步骤:
水相预处理:将增稠剂和去离子水均质后,加入保湿剂、抗氧化剂和一半重量份的皮肤调理剂,搅拌并加热;
油相预处理:将除硬脂酰谷氨酸盐外的所述乳化剂和润肤剂搅拌并加热后,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
后处理:将水相和油相混合均质并降温,加入螯合剂、余量的皮肤调理剂以及除海藻糖、氢化卵磷脂和乳化剂外的所述护肤组合物的其他组分并搅拌,过滤后得到所述面霜。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述水相预处理步骤中,均质频率为15~25Hz。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述水相预处理步骤中,加入保湿剂、抗氧化剂和一半重量份的皮肤调理剂后,搅拌频率为25~35Hz。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述水相预处理步骤中,加热至80~85℃。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述水相预处理步骤中,加热至80~85℃后,加入所述硬脂酰谷氨酸盐。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述油相预处理步骤中,搅拌频率为20~30Hz。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述油相预处理步骤中,加热至80~85℃。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述后处理步骤中,均质频率为20~30Hz,均质时间为8~15min。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述后处理步骤中,均质完成后降温至40~50℃,加入螯合剂、余量的皮肤调理剂以及除海藻糖、氢化卵磷脂和乳化剂外的所述护肤组合物的其他组分并搅拌。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述后处理步骤中,搅拌频率为25~35Hz。
在一种优选的实施方式中,本发明所述后处理步骤中,使用200~300目滤布过滤。
本发明中所述目数是指滤布在1英寸内的孔数。
实施例
下面通过实施例对本发明进行具体描述。有必要在此指出的是,以下实施例只用于对本发明作进一步说明,不能理解为对本发明保护范围的限制,该领域的专业技术人员根据上述本发明的内容做出的一些非本质的改进和调整,仍属于本发明的保护范围。
实施例1
本发明的实施例1提供一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述护肤组合物的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括6.5份乳化剂和3份金纽扣花提取物。
所述乳化剂按重量份计,由2份甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯和4.5份鲸蜡硬脂醇(CAS号:67762-27-0)组成。
所述甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自上海高维实业有限公司,牌号为ARLACEL 170。
所述金纽扣花提取物购自上海浦恩生化科技有限公司,牌号为Gatuline IN-Tense。
本例提供一种面霜,包含所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分比计,包括9.5%所述护肤组合物、0.4%增稠剂、16%保湿剂、0.2%抗氧化剂、11.1%润肤剂、1%螯合剂、0.48%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
所述增稠剂为卡波姆(CAS号:9007-20-9)。
所述保湿剂按重量份计,由8份甲基丙二醇(CAS号:2163-42-0)和8份1,3-丙二醇(CAS号:504-63-2)组成。
所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮(CAS号:99-93-4)。
所述润肤剂按重量份计,由2份牛油果树果脂、1份霍霍巴籽油、1份角鲨烷(CAS号:111-01-3)、5份聚二甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:9006-65-9)、2份辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:17955-88-3)和0.1份生育酚乙酸酯组成。
所述牛油果树果脂购自上海协瑞化工有限公司。
所述霍霍巴籽油购自上海富铂化工有限公司。
所述生育酚乙酸酯购自上海上德化工有限公司。
所述螯合剂购自上海浩云化工有限公司,牌号为PHL。
所述皮肤调理剂按重量份计,由0.2份尿囊素(CAS号:97-59-6)、0.2份精氨酸(CAS号:74-79-3)和0.08份玫瑰花油组成。
所述玫瑰花油购自恩格乐香精香料(上海)有限公司。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
水相预处理:将增稠剂加入去离子水中在20Hz下进行均质后,加入保湿剂、尿囊素和抗氧化剂,在30Hz下搅拌并加热至83℃;
油相预处理:将所述乳化剂和润肤剂在25Hz下搅拌并加热至83℃,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
后处理:将水相和油相在25Hz下混合均质10min,降温至45℃,加入螯合剂、精氨酸和玫瑰花油并在30Hz下搅拌,取样检测合格后,使用200目滤布过滤后得到所述面霜。
实施例2
本发明的实施例2提供一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述护肤组合物的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括6.7份乳化剂和3份金纽扣花提取物。
所述乳化剂按重量份计,由2份甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯、4.5份鲸蜡硬脂醇(CAS号:67762-27-0)和0.2份硬脂酰谷氨酸钠(CAS号:38517-23-6)组成。
所述甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自上海高维实业有限公司,牌号为ARLACEL 170。
所述金纽扣花提取物购自上海浦恩生化科技有限公司,牌号为Gatuline IN-Tense。
本例提供一种面霜,包含所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分比计,包括9.7%所述护肤组合物、0.4%增稠剂、16%保湿剂、0.2%抗氧化剂、11.1%润肤剂、1%螯合剂、0.48%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
所述增稠剂为卡波姆(CAS号:9007-20-9)。
所述保湿剂按重量份计,由8份甲基丙二醇(CAS号:2163-42-0)和8份丙二醇(CAS号:504-63-2)组成。
所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮(CAS号:99-93-4)。
所述润肤剂按重量份计,由2份牛油果树果脂、1份霍霍巴籽油、1份角鲨烷(CAS号:111-01-3)、5份聚二甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:9006-65-9)、2份辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:17955-88-3)和0.1份生育酚乙酸酯组成。
所述牛油果树果脂购自上海协瑞化工有限公司。
所述霍霍巴籽油购自上海富铂化工有限公司。
所述生育酚乙酸酯购自上海上德化工有限公司。
所述螯合剂购自上海浩云化工有限公司,牌号为PHL。
所述皮肤调理剂按重量份计,由0.2份尿囊素(CAS号:97-59-6)、0.2份精氨酸(CAS号:74-79-3)和0.08份玫瑰花油组成。
所述玫瑰花油购自恩格乐香精香料(上海)有限公司。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
水相预处理:将增稠剂加入去离子水中在20Hz下进行均质后,加入保湿剂、尿囊素和抗氧化剂,在30Hz下搅拌并加热至83℃,加入所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠;
油相预处理:将除所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠外所述乳化剂的其他组分和润肤剂在25Hz下搅拌并加热至83℃,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
后处理:将水相和油相在25Hz下混合均质10min,降温至45℃,加入螯合剂、精氨酸和玫瑰花油并在30Hz下搅拌,取样检测合格后,使用200目滤布过滤后得到所述面霜。
实施例3
本发明的实施例3提供一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述护肤组合物的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括6.7份乳化剂、3份金纽扣花提取物、0.2份氢化卵磷脂(CAS号:92128-87-5)、1份海藻糖(CAS号:99-20-7)和2.5份水解大豆蛋白复合物组成。
所述乳化剂按重量份计,由2份甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯、4.5份鲸蜡硬脂醇(CAS号:67762-27-0)和0.2份硬脂酰谷氨酸钠(CAS号:38517-23-6)组成。
所述甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自上海高维实业有限公司,牌号为ARLACEL 170。
所述金纽扣花提取物购自上海浦恩生化科技有限公司,牌号为Gatuline IN-Tense。
所述水解大豆蛋白复合物购自上海尧兰贸易有限公司,牌号为紧肤醒。
本例提供一种面霜,包含所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分比计,包括13.4%所述护肤组合物、0.4%增稠剂、16%保湿剂、0.2%抗氧化剂、11.1%润肤剂、1%螯合剂、0.48%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
所述增稠剂为卡波姆(CAS号:9007-20-9)。
所述保湿剂按重量份计,由8份甲基丙二醇(CAS号:2163-42-0)和8份丙二醇(CAS号:504-63-2)组成。
所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮(CAS号:99-93-4)。
所述润肤剂按重量份计,由2份牛油果树果脂、1份霍霍巴籽油、1份角鲨烷(CAS号:111-01-3)、5份聚二甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:9006-65-9)、2份辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:17955-88-3)和0.1份生育酚乙酸酯组成。
所述牛油果树果脂购自上海协瑞化工有限公司。
所述霍霍巴籽油购自上海富铂化工有限公司。
所述生育酚乙酸酯购自上海上德化工有限公司。
所述螯合剂购自上海浩云化工有限公司,牌号为PHL。
所述皮肤调理剂按重量份计,由0.2份尿囊素(CAS号:97-59-6)、0.2份精氨酸(CAS号:74-79-3)和0.08份玫瑰花油组成。
所述玫瑰花油购自恩格乐香精香料(上海)有限公司。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
水相预处理:将增稠剂加入去离子水中在20Hz下进行均质后,加入保湿剂、尿囊素、海藻糖、氢化卵磷脂和抗氧化剂,在30Hz下搅拌并加热至83℃,加入所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠;
油相预处理:将除所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠外所述乳化剂的其他组分和润肤剂在25Hz下搅拌并加热至83℃,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
后处理:将水相和油相在25Hz下混合均质10min,降温至45℃,加入螯合剂、水解大豆蛋白、精氨酸和玫瑰花油并在30Hz下搅拌,取样检测合格后,使用200目滤布过滤后得到所述面霜。
实施例4
本发明的实施例4提供一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述护肤组合物的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括6.7份乳化剂、3份金纽扣花提取物、0.2份氢化卵磷脂(CAS号:92128-87-5)、1份海藻糖(CAS号:99-20-7)、2.5份水解大豆蛋白复合物、1份复合植物提取物、1份咖啡因脂质体和2份三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物组成。
所述乳化剂按重量份计,由2份甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯、4.5份鲸蜡硬脂醇(CAS号:67762-27-0)和0.2份硬脂酰谷氨酸钠(CAS号:38517-23-6)组成。
所述甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自上海高维实业有限公司,牌号为ARLACEL 170。
所述金纽扣花提取物购自上海浦恩生化科技有限公司,牌号为Gatuline IN-Tense。
所述水解大豆蛋白复合物购自上海尧兰贸易有限公司,牌号为紧肤醒。
所述复合植物提取物包括库拉索芦荟叶提取物和意大利甘蓝提取物,购自上海瑞慕化工科技有限公司,牌号为BioDtox。
所述咖啡因脂质体购自上海皓云化工有限公司,牌号为LIPO COFFIN HERBASOME。
所述三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物购自上海至柔化工有限公司,牌号为Progline。
本例提供一种面霜,包含所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分比计,包括17.4%所述护肤组合物、0.4%增稠剂、16%保湿剂、0.2%抗氧化剂、11.1%润肤剂、1%螯合剂、0.48%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
所述增稠剂为卡波姆(CAS号:9007-20-9)。
所述保湿剂按重量份计,由8份甲基丙二醇(CAS号:2163-42-0)和8份1,3-丙二醇(CAS号:504-63-2)组成。
所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮(CAS号:99-93-4)。
所述润肤剂按重量份计,由2份牛油果树果脂、1份霍霍巴籽油、1份角鲨烷(CAS号:111-01-3)、5份聚二甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:9006-65-9)、2份辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:17955-88-3)和0.1份生育酚乙酸酯组成。
所述牛油果树果脂购自上海协瑞化工有限公司。
所述霍霍巴籽油购自上海富铂化工有限公司。
所述生育酚乙酸酯购自上海上德化工有限公司。
所述螯合剂购自上海浩云化工有限公司,牌号为PHL。
所述皮肤调理剂按重量份计,由0.2份尿囊素(CAS号:97-59-6)、0.2份精氨酸(CAS号:74-79-3)和0.08份玫瑰花油组成。
所述玫瑰花油购自恩格乐香精香料(上海)有限公司。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
水相预处理:将增稠剂加入去离子水中在20Hz下进行均质后,加入保湿剂、尿囊素、海藻糖、氢化卵磷脂和抗氧化剂,在30Hz下搅拌并加热至83℃,加入所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠;
油相预处理:将除所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠外所述乳化剂的其他组分和润肤剂在25Hz下搅拌并加热至83℃,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
后处理:将水相和油相在25Hz下混合均质10min,降温至45℃,加入螯合剂、水解大豆蛋白复合物、精氨酸、复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体、三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物和玫瑰花油并在30Hz下搅拌,取样检测合格后,使用200目滤布过滤后得到所述面霜。
实施例5
本发明的实施例5提供一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述护肤组合物的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括4.16份乳化剂、2份金纽扣花提取物、0.1份氢化卵磷脂(CAS号:92128-87-5)、0.7份海藻糖(CAS号:99-20-7)、2份水解大豆蛋白复合物、0.5份复合植物提取物、0.7份咖啡因脂质体和1.2份三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物组成。
所述乳化剂按重量份计,由1份甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯、3份鲸蜡硬脂醇(CAS号:67762-27-0)和0.16份硬脂酰谷氨酸钠(CAS号:38517-23-6)组成。
所述甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自上海高维实业有限公司,牌号为ARLACEL 170。
所述金纽扣花提取物购自上海浦恩生化科技有限公司,牌号为Gatuline  IN-Tense。
所述水解大豆蛋白复合物购自上海尧兰贸易有限公司,牌号为紧肤醒。
所述复合植物提取物包括库拉索芦荟叶提取物和意大利甘蓝提取物,购自上海瑞慕化工科技有限公司,牌号为BioDtox。
所述咖啡因脂质体购自上海皓云化工有限公司,牌号为LIPO COFFIN HERBASOME。
所述三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物购自上海至柔化工有限公司,牌号为Progline。
本例提供一种面霜,包含所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分比计,包括11.36%所述护肤组合物、0.1%增稠剂、15%保湿剂、0.1%抗氧化剂、8.1%润肤剂、0.5%螯合剂、0.2%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
所述增稠剂为卡波姆(CAS号:9007-20-9)。
所述保湿剂按重量份计,由7.5份甲基丙二醇(CAS号:2163-42-0)和7.5份1,3-丙二醇(CAS号:504-63-2)组成。
所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮(CAS号:99-93-4)。
所述润肤剂按重量份计,由1份牛油果树果脂、1份霍霍巴籽油、1份角鲨烷(CAS号:111-01-3)、4份聚二甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:9006-65-9)、1份辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:17955-88-3)和0.1份生育酚乙酸酯组成。
所述牛油果树果脂购自上海协瑞化工有限公司。
所述霍霍巴籽油购自上海富铂化工有限公司。
所述生育酚乙酸酯购自上海上德化工有限公司。
所述螯合剂购自上海浩云化工有限公司,牌号为PHL。
所述皮肤调理剂按重量份计,由0.05份尿囊素(CAS号:97-59-6)、0.1份精氨酸(CAS号:74-79-3)和0.05份玫瑰花油组成。
所述玫瑰花油购自恩格乐香精香料(上海)有限公司。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
水相预处理:将增稠剂加入去离子水中在15Hz下进行均质后,加入保湿剂、尿囊素、海藻糖、氢化卵磷脂和抗氧化剂,在25Hz下搅拌并加热至80℃,加入所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠;
油相预处理:将除所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠外所述乳化剂的其他组分和润肤剂在20Hz下搅拌并加热至80℃,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
后处理:将水相和油相在20Hz下混合均质8min,降温至40℃,加入螯合剂、水解大豆蛋白复合物、精氨酸、复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体、三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物和玫瑰花油并在25Hz下搅拌,取样检测合格后,使用200目滤布过滤后得到所述面霜。
实施例6
本发明的实施例6提供一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述护肤组合物的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括8.2份乳化剂、4份金纽扣花提取物、0.45份氢化卵磷脂(CAS号:92128-87-5)、1.5份海藻糖(CAS号:99-20-7)、3份水解大豆蛋白复合物、2份复合植物提取物、1份咖啡因脂质体和3份三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物组成。
所述乳化剂按重量份计,由3份甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯、5份鲸蜡硬脂醇(CAS号:67762-27-0)和0.2份硬脂酰谷氨酸钠(CAS号:38517-23-6)组成。
所述甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自上海高维实业有限公司,牌号为ARLACEL 170。
所述金纽扣花提取物购自上海浦恩生化科技有限公司,牌号为Gatuline IN-Tense。
所述水解大豆蛋白复合物购自上海尧兰贸易有限公司,牌号为紧肤醒。
所述复合植物提取物包括库拉索芦荟叶提取物和意大利甘蓝提取物,购自上海瑞慕化工科技有限公司,牌号为BioDtox。
所述咖啡因脂质体购自上海皓云化工有限公司,牌号为LIPO COFFIN HERBASOME。
所述三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物购自上海至柔化工有限公司,牌号为Progline。
本例提供一种面霜,包含所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分比计,包括23.15%所述护肤组合物、0.5%增稠剂、20%保湿剂、0.5%抗氧化剂、19.3%润肤剂、2%螯合剂、0.8%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
所述增稠剂为卡波姆(CAS号:9007-20-9)。
所述保湿剂按重量份计,由10份甲基丙二醇(CAS号:2163-42-0)和10份1,3-丙二醇(CAS号:504-63-2)组成。
所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮(CAS号:99-93-4)。
所述润肤剂按重量份计,由4份牛油果树果脂、3份霍霍巴籽油、2份角鲨烷(CAS号:111-01-3)、6份聚二甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:9006-65-9)、4份辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(CAS号:17955-88-3)和0.3份生育酚乙酸酯组成。
所述牛油果树果脂购自上海协瑞化工有限公司。
所述霍霍巴籽油购自上海富铂化工有限公司。
所述生育酚乙酸酯购自上海上德化工有限公司。
所述螯合剂购自上海浩云化工有限公司,牌号为PHL。
所述皮肤调理剂按重量份计,由0.3份尿囊素(CAS号:97-59-6)、0.35份精氨酸(CAS号:74-79-3)和0.15份玫瑰花油组成。
所述玫瑰花油购自恩格乐香精香料(上海)有限公司。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
水相预处理:将增稠剂加入去离子水中在25Hz下进行均质后,加入保湿剂、尿囊素、海藻糖、氢化卵磷脂和抗氧化剂,在35Hz下搅拌并加热至85℃,加入所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠;
油相预处理:将除所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠外所述乳化剂的其他组分和润肤剂在30Hz下搅拌并加热至85℃,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
后处理:将水相和油相在30Hz下混合均质15min,降温至50℃,加入螯合剂、水解大豆蛋白复合物、精氨酸、复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体、三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物和玫瑰花油并在35Hz下搅拌,取样检测合格后,使用200目滤布过滤后得到所述面霜。
实施例7
本发明的实施例7提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠的重量份为1.5份。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的重量百分比为18.7%。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例8
本发明的实施例8提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述甘油硬脂酸酯/PEG-100硬脂酸酯替换为聚乙二醇月桂酸酯(CAS号:31943-11-0)。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例9
本发明的实施例9提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述硬脂酰谷氨酸钠替换为十二烷基硫酸钠(CAS号:151-21-3)。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例10
本发明的实施例10提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的制备原料不添加氢化卵磷脂。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的重量百分比为17.2%。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例11
本发明的实施例11提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的制备原料不添加海藻糖。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的重量百分比为16.4%。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例12
本发明的实施例12提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述海藻糖的重量份为3份。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的重量百分比为19.4%。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例13
本发明的实施例13提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述水解大豆蛋白复合物的重量份为6。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的重量百分比为20.9%。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例14
本发明的实施例14提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述复合植物提取物的重量份为0.1份。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的重量百分比为16.5%。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例15
本发明的实施例15提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的制备原料不添加复合植物提取物和咖啡因脂质体。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的重量百分比为15.4%。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例16
本发明的实施例16提供一种所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物的重量份为5份。
本例提供一种面霜,包括所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述护肤组合物的重量百分比为20.4%。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
实施例17
本发明的实施例17提供一种面霜,其具体实施方式同实施例4,不同之处在于,所述面霜的制备原料不包括所述护肤组合物。
本例还提供所述面霜的制备方法,其具体实施方式同实施例4。
性能评价
1、稳定性测试:将实施例1~17提供的面霜作为样品进行稳定性测试:
(1)耐热测试:将样品放入(40±1)℃的电热恒温培养箱中24h,恢复室温后观察是否有变稀、变色、分层及硬度变化等现象,以判断样品的耐热性能;
(2)耐寒试验:将样品放入(-8±2)℃的电冰箱中24h,恢复室温后观察是否有变稀、变色、分层及硬度变化等现象,以判断样品的耐寒性能;
(3)离心试验:将样品置于离心机中,以(2000~4000)r/min的转速试验30min,观察样品的分离、分层状况,以判断样品的耐机械稳定性。
根据测试前后样品变稀、变色、分层及硬度变化等现象进行评级,共分为0~4级,其中0级为无变稀、变色、分层现象和硬度变化,1级为轻微变稀、变色,无分层和硬度变化,2级为变色和变稀现象增加,无分层现象,硬度略有变化,3级为略有分层现象,硬度变化增加,4级为有明显分层和硬度变化,获得组合物耐热、耐寒和耐机械稳定性,结果见表1。
2、敏感性测试:将实施例1~17提供的面霜,进行敏感性测试,具体测试方法如下:分别甄选油性肤质、敏感肤质人群做斑贴试验,受试者皮肤不能有伤疤,伤痕或毛发过多,有已知严重过敏史或者对化妆品严重过敏不能参与;并分别使用实施例1~16提供的面霜,对油性肤质和敏感肤质人群的测试部位皮肤进行敏感性评价,评价指标为:瘙痒感、紧绷感、刺激感、发红、干燥感、发炎,并分为0~4级,指标等级如下:0级:无敏感反应;1级:皮肤干燥,略微瘙痒;2级:皮肤略微发红,瘙痒感增加;3级:微弱红斑,少量红血丝;4级:大量红斑,大量红血丝,发炎,结果见表1。
3、毛孔紧致功效及复发测试:
测试方法:通过单次人体使用实施例1~17提供的面霜并由仪器(VISIA-CR)检测受试者毛孔,选择正常肌肤(脸部毛孔粗大),左右半脸的毛孔没有明显差异的中国健康女性受试者33例,年龄为25~55岁。根据使用前后的图像分析结果和评价结果通过统计学检验方法进行比较从而判断是否有统计学差异。
统计方法:如数据分布符合正态分布,则测试结果采用配对t检验,检验水准α=0.05;如数据分布不符合正态分布,则测试结果采用非参数检验Wilicoxon检验,检验水准α=0.05。
测试环境:测试环境为温度20.0℃~21.8℃,相对湿度48.0%~54.0%。
测试指标:分别进行面部正面、左侧45度、右侧45度测量。
检测流程:受试者用洁面产品清洁面部,并用干面巾纸擦干皮肤,在温度21±1℃,50±5%RH的实验室中静坐30min;面部图像拍摄(VISIA-CR);受试者使用实施例1~17提供的面霜,使用15分钟之后再次进行面部图像拍摄(VISIA-CR)。
(1)毛孔紧致功效测试
受试者在脸部使用1mL实施例1~17提供的面霜前、使用后15分钟后分别进行脸部图像的拍摄,同时通过自我评估的方式对毛孔状态改善情况进行评价,结果见表2。
效果标准:
a.分析受试者前后的面部图像,分别计算每位受试者使用实施例1~17的所述面霜前后的毛孔面积与所分析面积的比,分析毛孔下降率,毛孔下降率=(使用实施例1~17的所述面霜前毛孔面积与所分析面积的比-使用实施例1~17的所述面霜后毛孔面积与所分析面积的比)/使用实施例1~17的所述面霜前毛孔面积与所分析面积的比。
b.受试者自我评价的标准:1分:使用后毛孔紧致效果无改善;2分:使用后毛孔紧致效果改善不明显;3分:使用后毛孔紧致效果改善一般;4分:使用后毛孔紧致效果改善较明显;5分:使用后毛孔紧致效果改善明显。之后汇总使用产品的满意度,满意度以自我评价为5分的人数占总人数的百分比来表示。
(2)复发性能测试
受试者在脸部使用1mL实施例4~6提供的面霜15天后,及停用所述面霜15天后分别进行脸部图像的拍摄,发现在停用前后毛孔面积几乎没有变化。
4、感官测试:将实施例1~17提供的面霜,进行感官测试,具体测试方法如下:在使用样品前,使用者使用相同的温和洁面产品清洗脸部,再擦爽肤水和润肤乳,并涂抹实施例1~17提供的面霜,使用频率为早上使用一次,连续每天 使用,试用期为2周,并进行感官评价,主要评价指标为祛皱、抗衰老效果,并分为1~5级,其中,1级为无改善,2级为改善不明显,3级为改善一般,4级为改善良好,5级为改善显著,结果见表2。
5、理化性质测试:对实施例4提供的面霜进行理化性质测试:
(1)外观:对实施例4提供的面霜为淡黄色细腻膏体;
(2)香气:对实施例4提供的面霜的香气进行感官评价,符合规定香气(玫瑰);
(3)pH测试:对实施例4提供的面霜根据GB T13531.1-2008pH的测定方法,通过pH计测试,发现pH为6.02。
(4)相对密度:对实施例4提供的面霜根据GB T13531.4-2013相对密度的测定方法,使用密度计进行测试20℃下相对密度为1.00g/cm 3
表1 性能表征测试
Figure PCTCN2019121342-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2019121342-appb-000002
表2 性能表征测试
Figure PCTCN2019121342-appb-000003
由表1和表2测试结果可知,本发明提供的所述紧致肌肤用护肤组合物具有高的耐热、耐寒和耐机械稳定性,且使用含有本发明所述护肤组合物的护肤品,不会对皮肤造成刺激,对于敏感肤质和油性肤质的人群同样适用,且有优异的紧致肌肤、抗皱和抗衰老的功效,且不会复发。
前述的实例仅是说明性的,用于解释本发明所述方法的一些特征。所附的权利要求旨在要求可以设想的尽可能广的范围,且本文所呈现的实施例仅是根据所有可能的实施例的组合的选择的实施方式的说明。因此,申请人的用意是所附的 权利要求不被说明本发明的特征的示例的选择限制。在权利要求中所用的一些数值范围也包括了在其之内的子范围,这些范围中的变化也应在可能的情况下解释为被所附的权利要求覆盖。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述护肤组合物的制备原料包括乳化剂和金纽扣花提取物;所述乳化剂选自硬脂酸酯类、硬脂醇类、硬脂基葡糖苷类乳化剂中的一种或多种。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述乳化剂还包括硬脂酰谷氨酸盐;所述硬脂酰谷氨酸盐占所述乳化剂的2~4wt%。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述硬脂酰谷氨酸盐占所述金纽扣花提取物的3~10wt%。
  4. 根据权利要求2所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述护肤组合物的制备原料还包括氢化卵磷脂、海藻糖和水解大豆蛋白复合物。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述海藻糖和所述水解大豆蛋白复合物的重量比为1:(2~3)。
  6. 根据权利要求2或4所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述护肤组合物的制备原料还包括复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物,其特征在于,所述复合植物提取物、咖啡因脂质体和三氟乙酰三肽-2复合物的重量比为1:(0.5~1.5):(1.5~2.5)。
  8. 一种根据权利要求1~7任意一项所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物的应用,其特征在于,应用于护肤品中;所述护肤品选自水剂、乳液、面霜、眼霜、洁面乳、面膜、BB霜、精纯液、防晒霜、防晒水、痤疮水、粉刺露、洁面水、洁面露、精油、香波,保湿水、爽肤水、收敛水、柔肤水中的一种或多种。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的紧致肌肤用护肤组合物的应用,其特征在于,所述护肤品为面霜;所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括9~25%所述护肤组合物、0.1~0.5%增稠剂、15~20%保湿剂、0~0.5%抗氧化剂、8~20%润肤剂、0.5~2%螯合剂、0.2~0.8%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水。
  10. 一种面霜的制备方法,其特征在于,所述面霜的制备原料按重量百分数计,包括9~25%所述护肤组合物、0.1~0.5%增稠剂、15~20%保湿剂、0~0.5%抗氧化剂、8~20%润肤剂、0.5~2%螯合剂、0.2~0.8%皮肤调理剂和余量的去离子水;
    所述面霜的制备方法包括如下步骤:
    水相预处理:将增稠剂和去离子水均质后,加入保湿剂、抗氧化剂和一半重量份的皮肤调理剂,搅拌并加热;
    油相预处理:将除硬脂酰谷氨酸盐外的所述乳化剂和润肤剂搅拌并加热后,加入所述金纽扣花提取物;
    后处理:将水相和油相混合均质并降温,加入螯合剂、余量的皮肤调理剂以及除海藻糖、氢化卵磷脂和乳化剂外的所述护肤组合物的其他组分并搅拌,过滤后得到所述面霜。
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