WO2021003944A1 - Dyeing and finishing process capable of forming ptt/pet composite fiber fabric having crepe feeling - Google Patents

Dyeing and finishing process capable of forming ptt/pet composite fiber fabric having crepe feeling Download PDF

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WO2021003944A1
WO2021003944A1 PCT/CN2019/118866 CN2019118866W WO2021003944A1 WO 2021003944 A1 WO2021003944 A1 WO 2021003944A1 CN 2019118866 W CN2019118866 W CN 2019118866W WO 2021003944 A1 WO2021003944 A1 WO 2021003944A1
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Prior art keywords
dyeing
temperature
desizing
width
open
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PCT/CN2019/118866
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French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
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钱琴芳
赵学谦
陈威
陈翔
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盛虹集团有限公司
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B23/00Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
    • D06B23/04Carriers or supports for textile materials to be treated
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B23/00Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
    • D06B23/20Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration or distillation
    • D06B23/205Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration or distillation for adding or mixing constituents of the treating material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D06B3/20Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics with means to improve the circulation of the treating material on the surface of the fabric
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02Setting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06LDRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/12Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
    • D06L1/14De-sizing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333Salts or hydroxides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8276Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester groups

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric.
  • Airflow dyeing is mainly based on the principle of aerodynamics.
  • the high-speed airflow generated by the high-pressure fan is injected into the nozzle from the air inlet.
  • another pipeline injects the dye solution from the water inlet into the nozzle.
  • the dye solution and the high-speed airflow meet and mix at the nozzle to form a mist.
  • the fine droplets are sprayed.
  • the airflow dyeing machine draws the fabric circulation through the airflow, and completes the dyeing of the fabric.
  • the volume of the air-flow mist-like dye molecule droplet is smaller than the volume of the liquid dye molecule, the number of migration of the dye molecule per unit time increases, the dyeing levelness of the grey cloth is improved, the dyeing time is shortened, and the dyeing reproducibility is good.
  • the refined dye molecules are more likely to enter the wrinkle area of the rope-like grey fabric, so it is not easy to produce colored flowers and dyeing creases, so that the dye solution and the fabric are in full contact in a short time to achieve the purpose of leveling. .
  • the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric is made by interweaving PTT and PET. Because it contains more PTT components, the fabric itself has good elasticity and deformation memory. It is widely used in the production of sportswear, casual wear, underwear, and outerwear. , Furniture decoration cloth and other fields. However, in the dyeing and finishing process, due to improper use of technology or parameters, the fabric is prone to chromatic aberration, uneven dyeing, scratching and polishing, and hard feel. Therefore, choosing a suitable dyeing and finishing process determines the dyeing quality of the fabric. Bad and other properties.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a dyeing and finishing process that can form a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric.
  • a dyeing and finishing process that can form a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric.
  • the process under the premise of ensuring the quality of dyeing, can not only make the processed fabric free of scratches and other defects, but also give the fabric a zigzag crepe feel, so that the fabric has an obvious airflow style, and the fabric has good color reproducibility and soft feel.
  • the latitude has the shape memory function, the elasticity effect is obvious, and it meets the relevant requirements of taking.
  • a dyeing and finishing process that can form a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric
  • the dyeing and finishing process includes a pre-treatment process, dyeing Process and shaping process
  • the pre-treatment process includes the first open-width OS desizing process and the second open-width OS desizing process in sequence.
  • the dyeing and finishing process steps are as follows:
  • the first open-width OS desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to perform the first open-width desizing treatment on the fabric grey cloth.
  • the desizing aid formula used in the first open-width desizing process is as follows:
  • the second open-width OS desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to perform a second open-width desizing treatment on the fabric grey fabric that has undergone the first open-width desizing treatment.
  • the formula of sizing aid is the same as that of the first open-width desizing process;
  • the pre-treated fabric grey cloth is dyed.
  • the dyeing agent used in the dyeing process is composed of dyeing auxiliaries and dyes.
  • the dyes are disperse dyes.
  • the dyeing process is performed by a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure airflow overflow. Dyeing, when the dyeing vat temperature of the dyeing machine reaches 45°C, start to inject dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes; the dyeing process is divided into a dyeing stage and a washing stage.
  • the dyeing machine In the dyeing stage, the dyeing machine is in airflow mode, and in the washing stage, the dyeing machine It is a gas-liquid mode; the initial dyeing temperature of this dyeing process is 85°C, the holding time is 5min, and then the temperature is increased at a rate of 0.8°C/min based on the initial dyeing temperature;
  • the dyed fabric grey cloth is fixed by a setting machine and a setting treatment liquid.
  • the temperature of the dye vat is increased to 85°C at a rate of 0.7°C/min.
  • Dyeing is started at this temperature, kept for 5 minutes, and then increased at 0.8°C/min.
  • Increase the temperature to 105°C, hold for 10 minutes then increase the temperature to 115°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 10 minutes, and then increase the temperature to 130°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 80 minutes, and then at 1.2°C/min
  • the cooling rate is lowered to 80°C, and then it enters the washing stage.
  • the washing stage is to wash the dyed fabric grey cloth at a temperature of 70°C for medium-temperature water washing, the medium-temperature water washing time is 30 minutes, and then the normal temperature water washing, the normal temperature water washing time For 5min.
  • the dyeing auxiliaries in the dyeing process include ammonium sulfate, superfine fiber high-temperature levelling agent TF-212K and color repairing agent S-8231, and the amounts of the three dyeing auxiliaries in the dyeing agent are as follows:
  • Color correction agent S-8231 0.2g/L.
  • the dye in the dye in the dyeing process includes the following components:
  • the temperature conditions of the first open-width OS desizing process and the second open-width OS desizing process are both 95-98°C, and the vehicle speed is 45-55m/min.
  • the bath ratio of the dyeing process is 1:3.3.
  • the process parameters of the dyeing machine are: the output frequency of the main pump is 35 Hz, the output frequency of the fan is 37.5 Hz, and the rotation speed of the cloth lifting wheel is 420 rpm.
  • the styling treatment liquid used in the styling process contains 20 grams of fluorine-based water and oil repellent water repellent TF-4109, 10 grams of antistatic agent and 5 grams of softener per liter of the styling treatment liquid.
  • the shaping temperature of the shaping process is 180° C.
  • the vehicle speed is 45 m/min
  • the fan speed is 1400 r/min
  • the shaping machine performs 4 positive overfeeds.
  • the dyeing auxiliaries are first injected into the dyeing vat in the form of direct pumping, and then the disperse dyes are injected in the manner of proportional injection, and the injection time is 30 minutes.
  • the present invention has the following advantages and effects:
  • the present invention uses a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure airflow to perform dyeing.
  • the dyeing vat is set to the "air flow mode", and when the water washing starts after dyeing, it is set to the "air-liquid mode”. Achieve uniform dyeing effect, and can give "airflow style", so that the overall water consumption is maintained at a low usage;
  • the present invention can not only make the processed PTT/PET composite fiber fabric without scratches and other defects through the reasonable design of the pretreatment process, dyeing process, and setting process, but also the elasticity of the composite yarn will not be destroyed, and the fabric has deformation Memory, dye uniformity and color fastness meet customer requirements.
  • Figure 1 is a dyeing temperature process curve in the dyeing process of the present invention.
  • Fabric grey cloth 75D PET in warp direction, 75D PTT/PET composite yarn in weft direction, warp and weft density: 75*42, grey cloth width is 192cm, fabric surface density is 110g/m 2 , fabric weight is 211g/m, fabric The organization structure adopts twill weave.
  • Dyestuffs Disperse Blue 2BLN (Zhejiang Boao Dyestuff Industry Co., Ltd.), Disperse Golden NP-RGL (Zhejiang Longsheng Group Co., Ltd.), Disperse Red 3B (Zhejiang Deou Chemical Manufacturing Co., Ltd.);
  • Auxiliary 32-Ion-exchange membrane alkali (Jiangsu Suhua Group Co., Ltd.), oxidizing desizing agent TF-127A, chelating dispersing agent TF-133F, superfine fiber high temperature leveling agent TF-212K (Zhejiang Chuanhua Co., Ltd.) , Ammonium tripolyphosphate (industrial grade, 95%, Yunnan Dingxin Phosphorus Chemical Plant), ammonium sulfate (Shanghai Petrochemical Xinyuan Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), color repair agent S-8231 (Yixing Hualian Chemical Co., Ltd.).
  • Equipment OS-9V1200 open-width desizing machine (Taiwan Hongrong Dyeing and Finishing Machinery Co., Ltd.), SAF3-2HT high temperature and high pressure air overflow dual-use dyeing machine (Deyijia Machinery Jiangsu Co., Ltd.), MEGATE setting machine (Korea Micron Machinery Co., Ltd.); RVMC-12 Mano photoelectric weft straightening machine (German Mahlo company), Datacolor 600 computer color measuring instrument (U.S. Datacolor company), Y571B dry and wet rubbing fastness tester (Ningbo Textile Instrument Factory), SW-12A Washing fastness testing machine (Wuxi Textile Instrument Factory).
  • the dyeing and finishing process of the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric provided in this embodiment includes a pretreatment process, a dyeing process, and a setting process.
  • the pretreatment process includes the first open-width OS desizing process and the second
  • the sub-open width OS desizing process, the specific steps of the dyeing and finishing process are as follows:
  • the first open-width OS desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to perform the first open-width desizing treatment on the fabric grey cloth.
  • the desizing aid formula used in the first open-width desizing process is as follows:
  • the desizing process conditions are: the desizing temperature is 95°C, and the speed of the desizing machine is 50m/min.
  • the warp yarn of the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric is 75D PET yarn.
  • the warp yarn is subjected to repeated friction, stretching, bending, etc. on the loom during the weaving process, and it is prone to breakage.
  • the single yarns are not tightly bound to each other, and the surface has more hairiness and is difficult to weave.
  • the sizing process is conducive to the weaving process, it is not conducive to the subsequent dyeing and finishing of the fabric.
  • the sizing film covered on the surface will hinder the diffusion and bonding of the dye into the fiber, resulting in low dye uptake and problems such as colored flowers. Therefore, it is necessary to desizing the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric.
  • the TF-127A oxidizing desizing agent selected in the first open-width OS desizing process has good alkali resistance stability under 95°C hot alkali conditions, and can make the polyacrylic acid sizing commonly used in the sizing process larger Molecules undergo oxidative decomposition and become small molecular segments with better water solubility, and their viscosity is rapidly reduced, making them easy to fall off the fabric.
  • Ammonium tripolyphosphate and chelating dispersant TF-133F have a good chelating effect on metal ions, which can not only prevent the anti-contamination of the falling slurry, but also soften the water quality in the desizing machine. The two can produce synergy It can ensure a better pretreatment effect.
  • the slurry, oil stains and stains on the surface of the fabric can basically be effectively treated. Due to the effect of heat and humidity, the internal stress of the fabric is relieved, and the door width shrinks to a certain extent.
  • the lower door width is about 184cm.
  • the second open-width desizing process adopts the same desizing assistant formula as the first open-width desizing process, and the process conditions are the same as those of the first open-width desizing process.
  • the main purpose of the second open-width OS desizing is to shrink the width.
  • the temperature in the tank of the desizing machine is about 95°C, which is higher than the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the PTT and PET components in the fabric, so the molecular chain Movement and reorganization can be obtained, the tension is further eliminated, and the door width is reduced again.
  • Tg glass transition temperature
  • the width of the fabric under the machine is about 168cm, and the elastic effect of the PTT/PET composite yarn with 75D weft direction is obvious.
  • the pre-treated fabric grey cloth is dyed, and the dyeing agent used in the dyeing process is composed of dyeing auxiliary and dye, and the dye is disperse dye.
  • the dyeing auxiliary agent includes ammonium sulfate, superfine fiber high temperature leveling agent TF-212K and color repairing agent S-8231, and disperse dyes include disperse blue 2BLN, disperse golden NP-RGL and disperse red 3B.
  • the specific formula of the dyeing agent in this dyeing process is as follows:
  • the amount of dye refers to the weight percentage of the fabric, namely% (owf), and the dye bath ratio is 1:3.3.
  • the process parameters of the dyeing machine are designed as follows: the output frequency of the main pump is 35Hz, the output frequency of the fan is 37.5Hz, and the speed of the cloth lifting wheel is 420rpm.
  • the dyeing process uses a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure and airflow overflow.
  • the dyeing vat temperature of the dyeing machine reaches 45°C
  • the dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes are injected respectively; when the dyeing auxiliaries are first added, direct extraction can be used in the dyeing vat Method of quick injection; when disperse dyes are added, a proportional injection method is required to control the flow rate of the dye into the dyeing vat.
  • the injection time is 30min to prevent the injection from being too fast. The directness of the dye and the cloth surface will cause dyeing failure. Even the question.
  • the dyeing process is divided into a dyeing stage and a washing stage. Due to the atomization effect of the airflow mode, the overall volume of the dye bath needs to be small, so although the dyeing effect is good, the washing effect is poor. Therefore, in the dyeing stage, the dyeing machine is in air-flow mode, and in the washing stage, the dyeing machine is in air-liquid mode; this design can not only ensure a uniform dyeing effect, but also give the fabric "air-flow style", so that the overall water consumption is maintained At lower usage levels.
  • the dyeing process is designed with a reasonable dyeing temperature process curve and cooperated with the main pump, fan, and The design of cloth lifting wheel parameters realizes better dyeing effect.
  • the dyeing temperature process curve shown in Figure 1 After the dyeing agent is injected, the temperature of the dyeing vat is raised to 85°C at a heating rate of 0.7°C/min. Dyeing starts at this temperature, holding for 5 minutes, and then heating up at 0.8°C/min Increase the temperature to 105°C, hold for 10 minutes, then increase the temperature to 115°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 10 minutes, and then increase the temperature to 130°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 80 minutes, and then at 1.2°C/min The cooling rate is lowered to 80°C, and then it enters the washing stage.
  • PTT fiber is also called elastic polyester. Due to the different number of methylene groups contained in the repeating unit of the macromolecular chain, the odd carbon effect makes the dyeing method of PTT/PET composite fiber fabric different from that of conventional PET.
  • the dyeing transition temperature TD of PTT/PET composite fiber fabric (the turning point of dyeing speed is significantly accelerated) is 70-80°C due to the addition of PTT fiber, which is about 10°C lower than pure PET. Therefore, control the initial dyeing temperature of the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric at 85°C. At this temperature, put the fabric into the dyeing vat of the dyeing machine for initial dyeing, and keep it at this temperature for 5 minutes, and then use 0.8°C/min.
  • the heating rate is increased, and the fabric can obtain a better initial dyeing effect.
  • the dyeing temperature process curve shown in Figure 1 As the temperature in the dyeing vat rises and pressure begins, the movement of fabric molecular segments begins to intensify. The changes in the microstructure can form more "holes", and the increase in channels will cause Conducive to the diffusion of dyes.
  • Tg of the fabric After the heat preservation is over, decrease the glass transition temperature Tg of the fabric from 130°C (about 80°C in the curve shown in Figure 1), and the temperature should not be too fast to prevent the formation of creases.
  • the dyed fabric can be selected at about 80°C, such as colorless light, hue deviation, etc., and then the fabric can enter the washing stage.
  • the first washing is carried out at 70°C with medium temperature water for 30 minutes, which can wash away most of the floating color and foam.
  • the fabric is washed again at room temperature for 5 minutes.
  • the washing effect is subject to the clear water in the tank without obvious foam. If the second washing does not meet the requirements, depending on the specific situation, continue to increase the number of washings until the drain of the tank is clear.
  • the width of the fabric under the machine is about 154cm.
  • the fabric grey cloth dyed by the dyeing process enters the setting process.
  • the styling process uses a styling machine and a styling treatment liquid to set and finish the dyed fabric.
  • Each liter of the styling treatment liquid used in the styling process contains 20 grams of fluorine-based water and oil repellent water repellent TF-4109, 10 grams of antistatic agent and 5 grams of softener.
  • the setting temperature of the setting process is 180°C
  • the vehicle speed is 45m/min
  • the fan speed is 1400r/min
  • the setting machine performs 4 positive overfeeds.
  • the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric After the dyeing process, the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric has a certain crepe-like "air-flow style".
  • the door width of the dyeing cylinder and the width of the setting machine are required, as well as the hand feeling and weight.
  • the setting temperature, overfeeding, vehicle speed, fan speed and other parameters of the setting machine mentioned above can make its "air flow style" stable.
  • Water repellent TF-4109 is an organic fluorine water repellent. After acting on the surface of the fabric, the surface free energy of the compound is significantly reduced due to the small cohesion between the C-F bond compounds. When the surface of the fabric has the effect of water droplets, its contact angle is usually above 90 degrees, which can obtain a better waterproof effect. At the same time, the antistatic agent is used to give the fabric an antistatic effect, and the softener is used to further improve the feel of the fabric.
  • the sample from the customer is set as the standard sample, and the production sample of the present invention is set as the control sample.
  • the L, a, and b values of the sample are measured with the Datacolor 600 computer colorimeter under D65 light source and 10 viewing angles, and then the color difference is calculated Value ⁇ E, test 3 times, take the average value.
  • the comparison results are shown in Table 1.
  • Table 1 The color difference between the production sample of the present invention and the customer's standard sample
  • Color fastness includes rubbing fastness evaluation, discoloration evaluation and staining evaluation.
  • the rubbing fastness is measured according to GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test and rubbing fastness”
  • the discoloration evaluation is measured according to GB/T 250-2008 "Textile color fastness test and evaluation of the gray sample card for discoloration”
  • staining The evaluation is based on GB/T 251-2008 "Textile color fastness test to evaluate staining gray sample card”. The specific results are shown in Table 2.
  • the processed fabric of the present invention has a higher level of resistance to dry friction or wet friction, resistance to discoloration and staining, and meets the processing requirements of customers.
  • the invention processes the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric using a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure and airflow.
  • a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure and airflow.
  • the processed fabric can have a good color and weight compared with the samples from customers. Presentability, and the “airflow style” of the cloth surface is prominent;
  • the present invention can not only make the processed PTT/PET composite fiber fabric free of defects, but also the elasticity of the weft composite yarn is not destroyed, and the fabric has deformation memory.
  • the color fastness meets customer requirements.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

A dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a PTT/PET composite fiber fabric having a crepe feeling, comprising a pretreatment process, a dyeing process, and a setting process which are performed in sequence; the pretreatment process comprises a first open-width OS desizing process and a second open-width OS desizing process which are performed in sequence; in the dyeing process, a high-temperature and high-pressure airflow overflow dual-purpose dyeing machine is used for dyeing, and the dyeing process is divided into a dyeing stage and a water washing stage, in the dyeing stage, the dyeing machine being in an airflow mode, and in the water washing stage, the dyeing machine being in an air-liquid mode; and in the setting process, dyed greige fabric is set using a setting treatment liquid by means of a setting machine. While ensuring the dyeing quality, the present invention can make the processed fabric flawless, and provide a zigzag crepe feeling for the fabric, so that the fabric has an obvious airflow style; the fabric has good color reproduction, is soft to touch, has a shape memory function in the weft direction and an obvious elastic effect, and satisfies the wearing requirements.

Description

一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺Dyeing and finishing process capable of forming crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric 技术领域Technical field
本发明属于纺织品印染技术领域,特别涉及一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺。The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric.
背景技术Background technique
气流染色机虽由德国于1979年研发并推广,但在我国起步和发展较晚。国内传统染色机普遍采用循环染缸原理,以其造价低、操作简单、维护便宜等优势,具有较高市场占有率。近年来随着环保政策的收紧,利用新设备,采用新技术、新工艺对印染行业进行升级改造,具有广阔的市场发展前景和必然性。Although the airflow dyeing machine was developed and promoted by Germany in 1979, it started and developed relatively late in my country. Traditional domestic dyeing machines generally use the principle of circular dyeing vat, which has a high market share due to its low cost, simple operation, and low maintenance. In recent years, with the tightening of environmental protection policies, the use of new equipment, new technologies, and new processes to upgrade and transform the printing and dyeing industry has broad market development prospects and inevitability.
气流染色主要是采用空气动力学原理,将高压风机产生的高速气流从入气口注入喷嘴,同时另一管路从入水口向喷嘴注入染液,染液与高速气流在喷嘴处相遇并混合形成雾状微细液滴后喷向织物。和传统溢流、喷射和溢喷染色机以染液牵引织物循环的方式相比,气流染色机通过气流牵引织物循环,并完成染料对织物的上染。在整个染色过程中,水仅作为染料的溶剂和织物浸湿的溶胀剂,大大降低了织物染色的浴比。而浴比的降低,意味着加热升温所需的蒸汽耗用、冷却时所需冷却水、染化料的消耗以及排污量的降低,进而促进了生产过程中的节能减排。Airflow dyeing is mainly based on the principle of aerodynamics. The high-speed airflow generated by the high-pressure fan is injected into the nozzle from the air inlet. At the same time, another pipeline injects the dye solution from the water inlet into the nozzle. The dye solution and the high-speed airflow meet and mix at the nozzle to form a mist. After spraying into the fabric, the fine droplets are sprayed. Compared with the traditional overflow, jet and overflow dyeing machine in which the dye liquor draws the fabric circulation, the airflow dyeing machine draws the fabric circulation through the airflow, and completes the dyeing of the fabric. In the entire dyeing process, water only acts as a solvent for dyes and a swelling agent for fabric wetting, which greatly reduces the bath ratio of fabric dyeing. The decrease in liquor ratio means that the steam consumption required for heating and heating, the cooling water required for cooling, the consumption of dyestuffs and the reduction of pollutant discharge are reduced, which in turn promotes energy saving and emission reduction in the production process.
由于气流雾状染料分子液滴体积小于液状染料分子体积,染料分子在单位时间内的泳移次数增加,提高了坯布的染色匀染度,缩短了上染时间,染色重现性好。加之由于雾状气流作用,细化的染料分子更易进入绳状坯布折皱区域,故不易产生色花和染色折痕,使得染液与织物在很短的时间内充分接触,以达到匀染的目的。气流染色在节能减排以及匀染性等方面的特性,使得其近年来 在企业中不仅用来替代传统的液流加工,而且也广泛应用于加工天丝、天丝混纺等高档织物、化纤仿真类以及超细差别化纤维。在实际应用过程中发现,除了满足常规的染色要求,加工过程中,通过对染机自身性能的深挖掘,合理调节气流染色如风机、主泵、圏时等参数,配合升温染色工艺,可使织物获得液流染色机加工后不具备的新风格。出缸后的织物布面具有曲曲折折的绉感,这种“气流风格”不仅使得面料手感柔软,而且很好的迎合了市场需求。Because the volume of the air-flow mist-like dye molecule droplet is smaller than the volume of the liquid dye molecule, the number of migration of the dye molecule per unit time increases, the dyeing levelness of the grey cloth is improved, the dyeing time is shortened, and the dyeing reproducibility is good. In addition, due to the effect of the mist-like airflow, the refined dye molecules are more likely to enter the wrinkle area of the rope-like grey fabric, so it is not easy to produce colored flowers and dyeing creases, so that the dye solution and the fabric are in full contact in a short time to achieve the purpose of leveling. . The characteristics of airflow dyeing in terms of energy saving, emission reduction and level dyeing have made it not only used to replace traditional liquid flow processing in enterprises in recent years, but also widely used in the processing of high-end fabrics and chemical fiber simulations such as Tencel and Tencel blends. Class and ultra-fine differentiated fibers. In the actual application process, it was found that in addition to meeting the conventional dyeing requirements, in the processing process, through the deep excavation of the dyeing machine's own performance, reasonable adjustment of airflow dyeing parameters such as fan, main pump, ring time and other parameters, combined with the heating dyeing process, The fabric acquires a new style that the liquid dyeing machine does not possess. The fabric surface after the cylinder has a tortuous crepe feel. This "airflow style" not only makes the fabric feel soft, but also caters to the market demand.
PTT/PET复合纤维织物织物是由PTT和PET交织而成,由于含有较多的PTT成分,使得面料本身具有较好弹性以及形变记忆性,被广泛应用于制作运动服、休闲服、内衣、外套、家具装饰布等领域。但在染整加工过程中,由于工艺或者参数使用不当,面料易出现色差、染色不匀、擦伤擦亮以及手感偏硬等情况,因此选择合适的染整加工工艺决定了织物的染色质量好坏以及其他性能。The PTT/PET composite fiber fabric is made by interweaving PTT and PET. Because it contains more PTT components, the fabric itself has good elasticity and deformation memory. It is widely used in the production of sportswear, casual wear, underwear, and outerwear. , Furniture decoration cloth and other fields. However, in the dyeing and finishing process, due to improper use of technology or parameters, the fabric is prone to chromatic aberration, uneven dyeing, scratching and polishing, and hard feel. Therefore, choosing a suitable dyeing and finishing process determines the dyeing quality of the fabric. Bad and other properties.
发明内容Summary of the invention
为解决上述技术问题,本发明的目的在于提供一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其根据织物自身特性,通过制定合适的前处理工艺、染色工艺以及定型工艺,在保证染色质量的前提下,不仅可以使加工后的织物无擦伤等瑕疵,而且赋予织物曲折状的绉感,使织物具有明显的气流风格,织物色彩重现性好,手感柔软,且纬向具备形状记忆功能,弹力效果明显,满足相关服用要求。In order to solve the above technical problems, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a dyeing and finishing process that can form a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric. According to the characteristics of the fabric itself, by formulating appropriate pre-treatment processes, dyeing processes and shaping The process, under the premise of ensuring the quality of dyeing, can not only make the processed fabric free of scratches and other defects, but also give the fabric a zigzag crepe feel, so that the fabric has an obvious airflow style, and the fabric has good color reproducibility and soft feel. And the latitude has the shape memory function, the elasticity effect is obvious, and it meets the relevant requirements of taking.
为实现上述技术目的,达到上述技术效果,本发明通过以下技术方案实现:一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,该染整加工工艺包括前处理工艺、染色工艺和定型工艺,所述前处理工艺包括依次进行的第 一次平幅OS退浆工艺和第二次平幅OS退浆工艺,该染整加工工艺的步骤如下:In order to achieve the above technical objectives and achieve the above technical effects, the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions: a dyeing and finishing process that can form a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric, the dyeing and finishing process includes a pre-treatment process, dyeing Process and shaping process, the pre-treatment process includes the first open-width OS desizing process and the second open-width OS desizing process in sequence. The dyeing and finishing process steps are as follows:
(1)前处理工艺:(1) Pre-treatment process:
第一平幅OS退浆工艺,采用平幅退浆机对织物坯布进行第一次平幅退浆处理,该第一次平幅退浆工艺所采用的退浆助剂配方如下:The first open-width OS desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to perform the first open-width desizing treatment on the fabric grey cloth. The desizing aid formula used in the first open-width desizing process is as follows:
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000001
第二次平幅OS退浆工艺,采用平幅退浆机对经过第一平幅退浆处理的织物坯布进行第二次平幅退浆处理,该第二次平幅退浆工艺采用的退浆助剂配方与第一次平幅退浆工艺的退浆助剂配方相同;The second open-width OS desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to perform a second open-width desizing treatment on the fabric grey fabric that has undergone the first open-width desizing treatment. The formula of sizing aid is the same as that of the first open-width desizing process;
(2)染色工艺:(2) Dyeing process:
对经过前处理的织物坯布进行染色处理,所述染色工艺所采用的染色剂是由染色助剂和染料组成,所述染料为分散染料,该染色工艺采用高温高压气流溢流两用染色机进行染色,在染色机的染缸温度达到45℃时开始分别注入染色助剂和分散染料;该染色工艺分为染色阶段和水洗阶段,在染色阶段中,染色机为气流模式,在水洗阶段,染色机为气液模式;该染色工艺的始染温度为85℃,保温时间为5min,然后在此始染温度基础上以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温;The pre-treated fabric grey cloth is dyed. The dyeing agent used in the dyeing process is composed of dyeing auxiliaries and dyes. The dyes are disperse dyes. The dyeing process is performed by a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure airflow overflow. Dyeing, when the dyeing vat temperature of the dyeing machine reaches 45℃, start to inject dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes; the dyeing process is divided into a dyeing stage and a washing stage. In the dyeing stage, the dyeing machine is in airflow mode, and in the washing stage, the dyeing machine It is a gas-liquid mode; the initial dyeing temperature of this dyeing process is 85℃, the holding time is 5min, and then the temperature is increased at a rate of 0.8℃/min based on the initial dyeing temperature;
(3)定型工艺:(3) Shaping process:
该定型工艺通过定型机并利用定型处理液对染色后的织物坯布进行定型处理。In the setting process, the dyed fabric grey cloth is fixed by a setting machine and a setting treatment liquid.
优选的,在染色工艺的染色阶段中,注入染色剂后,染缸温度以0.7℃/min 的升温速度升温至85℃,在此温度下进行始染,保温5min,再以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至105℃,保温10min,然后以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至115℃,保温10min,再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃,保温80min,接下来以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至80℃,然后进入水洗阶段,水洗阶段是将染色后的织物坯布在70℃的温度下进行中温水洗,中温水洗时间为30min,然后再进行常温水洗,常温水洗的时间为5min。Preferably, in the dyeing stage of the dyeing process, after the dyeing agent is injected, the temperature of the dye vat is increased to 85°C at a rate of 0.7°C/min. Dyeing is started at this temperature, kept for 5 minutes, and then increased at 0.8°C/min. Increase the temperature to 105°C, hold for 10 minutes, then increase the temperature to 115°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 10 minutes, and then increase the temperature to 130°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 80 minutes, and then at 1.2°C/min The cooling rate is lowered to 80℃, and then it enters the washing stage. The washing stage is to wash the dyed fabric grey cloth at a temperature of 70℃ for medium-temperature water washing, the medium-temperature water washing time is 30 minutes, and then the normal temperature water washing, the normal temperature water washing time For 5min.
优选的,所述染色工艺中的染色助剂包括硫酸铵、超细纤维高温匀染剂TF-212K和修色剂S-8231,该三种染色助剂在染色剂中的用量如下:Preferably, the dyeing auxiliaries in the dyeing process include ammonium sulfate, superfine fiber high-temperature levelling agent TF-212K and color repairing agent S-8231, and the amounts of the three dyeing auxiliaries in the dyeing agent are as follows:
硫酸铵                           0.8g/L,Ammonium sulfate 0.8g/L,
超细纤维高温匀染剂TF-212K        0.6/L,Superfine fiber high temperature levelling agent TF-212K 0.6/L,
修色剂S-8231                     0.2g/L。Color correction agent S-8231 0.2g/L.
优选的,所述染色工艺的染色剂中的染料包括以下组分:Preferably, the dye in the dye in the dyeing process includes the following components:
分散蓝2BLN                   0.10%owfDisperse Blue 2BLN 0.10%owf
分散金黄NP-RGL               0.02%owfScattered golden NP-RGL 0.02%owf
分散红3B                     0.06%owf。Disperse Red 3B 0.06%owf.
优选的,所述第一次平幅OS退浆工艺和第二次平幅OS退浆工艺的温度条件均为95-98℃,车速为45-55m/min。Preferably, the temperature conditions of the first open-width OS desizing process and the second open-width OS desizing process are both 95-98°C, and the vehicle speed is 45-55m/min.
优选的,所述染色工艺的浴比为1:3.3。Preferably, the bath ratio of the dyeing process is 1:3.3.
优选的,在染色工艺中,染色机的工艺参数为:主泵的输出频率为35Hz,风机的输出频率为37.5Hz,提布轮的转速为420rpm。Preferably, in the dyeing process, the process parameters of the dyeing machine are: the output frequency of the main pump is 35 Hz, the output frequency of the fan is 37.5 Hz, and the rotation speed of the cloth lifting wheel is 420 rpm.
优选的,定型工艺所使用的定型处理液中每升定型处理液含有20克氟系防水防油防水剂TF-4109、10克抗静电剂和5克柔软剂。Preferably, the styling treatment liquid used in the styling process contains 20 grams of fluorine-based water and oil repellent water repellent TF-4109, 10 grams of antistatic agent and 5 grams of softener per liter of the styling treatment liquid.
优选的,所述定型工艺的定型温度为180℃,车速为45m/min,风机转速为1400r/min,定型机打4个正超喂。Preferably, the shaping temperature of the shaping process is 180° C., the vehicle speed is 45 m/min, the fan speed is 1400 r/min, and the shaping machine performs 4 positive overfeeds.
优选的,在染色工艺中,染色助剂先以直抽形式全部注入染缸内,然后,分散染料采用比例注料的方式注入,注料时间为30min。Preferably, in the dyeing process, the dyeing auxiliaries are first injected into the dyeing vat in the form of direct pumping, and then the disperse dyes are injected in the manner of proportional injection, and the injection time is 30 minutes.
本发明与现有技术相比具有下列优点和效果:Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages and effects:
(1)本发明利用高温高压气流溢流两用染色机进行染色,在染色阶段,对染缸设置染色模式为“气流模式”,染色后开始水洗时设置为“气液模式”,这样可保证既获得均匀染色效果,又能赋予“气流风格”,使得综合水耗维持在较低使用量;(1) The present invention uses a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure airflow to perform dyeing. In the dyeing stage, the dyeing vat is set to the "air flow mode", and when the water washing starts after dyeing, it is set to the "air-liquid mode". Achieve uniform dyeing effect, and can give "airflow style", so that the overall water consumption is maintained at a low usage;
(2)本发明的染色工艺中,采用85℃为始染温度,并且在此温度下保温5min,然后以0.8℃/min的升温速率进行升温,可以使织物获得较好的初始染色效果;本发明通过设计合理的升温染色工艺,并配合染色机的参数设计,使织物获得液流染色机加工后不具备的新风格,出缸后的织物布面具有曲曲折折的绉感,形成特殊的“气流风格”,这种风格不仅使得面料手感柔软,而且很好的迎合了市场需求;(2) In the dyeing process of the present invention, 85°C is used as the initial dyeing temperature, and the temperature is kept at this temperature for 5 minutes, and then the temperature is raised at a temperature increase rate of 0.8°C/min, which can make the fabric obtain a better initial dyeing effect; Invented by designing a reasonable temperature-rising dyeing process and cooperating with the parameter design of the dyeing machine, the fabric obtains a new style that the liquid dyeing machine does not have after processing. The fabric surface after the vat has a tortuous crepe feeling, forming a special "Airflow style", this style not only makes the fabric feel soft, but also caters to market demand well;
(3)本发明通过前处理工艺、染色工艺、定型工艺的合理设计,不仅可以使加工后的PTT/PET复合纤维织物无擦伤等瑕疵,而且复合丝的弹力不会被破坏,织物具备形变记忆性,染色均匀性和色牢度满足客户要求。(3) The present invention can not only make the processed PTT/PET composite fiber fabric without scratches and other defects through the reasonable design of the pretreatment process, dyeing process, and setting process, but also the elasticity of the composite yarn will not be destroyed, and the fabric has deformation Memory, dye uniformity and color fastness meet customer requirements.
附图说明Description of the drawings
图1为本发明的染色工艺中的染色温度工艺曲线。Figure 1 is a dyeing temperature process curve in the dyeing process of the present invention.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
下面结合附图对本发明的较佳实施例进行详细阐述,以使本发明的优点和 特征能更易于被本领域技术人员理解,从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。The preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings, so that the advantages and features of the present invention can be more easily understood by those skilled in the art, so that the protection scope of the present invention can be more clearly defined.
实施例Example
织物坯布:经向为75D PET,纬向为75D PTT/PET复合丝,经纬密:75*42,坯布幅宽为192cm,织物表面密度110g/m 2,织物米克重为211g/m,织物的组织结构采用斜纹组织。 Fabric grey cloth: 75D PET in warp direction, 75D PTT/PET composite yarn in weft direction, warp and weft density: 75*42, grey cloth width is 192cm, fabric surface density is 110g/m 2 , fabric weight is 211g/m, fabric The organization structure adopts twill weave.
该实施例所采用的染料、各种助剂以及使用的设备的厂家及型号如下:The manufacturers and models of the dyes, various additives and equipment used in this embodiment are as follows:
染料 分散蓝2BLN(浙江博澳染料工业有限公司)、分散金黄NP-RGL(浙江龙盛集团股份有限公司)、分散红3B(浙江德欧化工制造有限公司);Dyestuffs Disperse Blue 2BLN (Zhejiang Boao Dyestuff Industry Co., Ltd.), Disperse Golden NP-RGL (Zhejiang Longsheng Group Co., Ltd.), Disperse Red 3B (Zhejiang Deou Chemical Manufacturing Co., Ltd.);
助剂 32-离子膜碱(江苏苏化集团有限公司),氧化退浆剂TF-127A、螯合分散剂TF-133F、超细纤维高温匀染剂TF-212K(浙江传化股份有限公司),三聚磷酸铵(工业级,95%,云南鼎新磷化工厂)、硫酸铵(上海石化鑫源化工实业有限公司),修色剂S-8231(宜兴市华联化工有限公司)。Auxiliary 32-Ion-exchange membrane alkali (Jiangsu Suhua Group Co., Ltd.), oxidizing desizing agent TF-127A, chelating dispersing agent TF-133F, superfine fiber high temperature leveling agent TF-212K (Zhejiang Chuanhua Co., Ltd.) , Ammonium tripolyphosphate (industrial grade, 95%, Yunnan Dingxin Phosphorus Chemical Plant), ammonium sulfate (Shanghai Petrochemical Xinyuan Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), color repair agent S-8231 (Yixing Hualian Chemical Co., Ltd.).
设备 OS-9V1200平幅退浆机(台湾鸿荣染整机械股份有限公司),SAF3-2HT高温高压气流溢流两用染色机(德意佳机械江苏有限公司),MEGATE定型机(韩国美光机械株式有限公司);RVMC-12玛诺光电整纬机(德国Mahlo公司),Datacolor 600电脑测色仪(美国Datacolor公司),Y571B型干湿摩擦牢度仪(宁波纺织仪器厂),SW-12A耐洗色牢度试验机(无锡纺织仪器厂)。Equipment OS-9V1200 open-width desizing machine (Taiwan Hongrong Dyeing and Finishing Machinery Co., Ltd.), SAF3-2HT high temperature and high pressure air overflow dual-use dyeing machine (Deyijia Machinery Jiangsu Co., Ltd.), MEGATE setting machine (Korea Micron Machinery Co., Ltd.); RVMC-12 Mano photoelectric weft straightening machine (German Mahlo company), Datacolor 600 computer color measuring instrument (U.S. Datacolor company), Y571B dry and wet rubbing fastness tester (Ningbo Textile Instrument Factory), SW-12A Washing fastness testing machine (Wuxi Textile Instrument Factory).
本实施例所提供的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,包括前处理工艺、染色工艺和定型工艺,其中,前处理工艺包括依次进行的第一次平幅OS退浆工艺和第二次平幅OS退浆工艺,该染整加工工艺的具体步骤如下:The dyeing and finishing process of the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric provided in this embodiment includes a pretreatment process, a dyeing process, and a setting process. The pretreatment process includes the first open-width OS desizing process and the second The sub-open width OS desizing process, the specific steps of the dyeing and finishing process are as follows:
(1)前处理工艺:(1) Pre-treatment process:
第一平幅OS退浆工艺,采用平幅退浆机对织物坯布进行第一次平幅退浆处理,该第一次平幅退浆工艺所采用的退浆助剂配方如下:The first open-width OS desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to perform the first open-width desizing treatment on the fabric grey cloth. The desizing aid formula used in the first open-width desizing process is as follows:
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000002
退浆工艺条件为:退浆温度为95℃,退浆机的车速为50m/min。The desizing process conditions are: the desizing temperature is 95℃, and the speed of the desizing machine is 50m/min.
PTT/PET复合纤维织物的经纱为75D的PET丝,在织造加工过程中,经纱在织机上受经停片、综、筘等反复摩擦、拉伸、弯曲等作用,易发生断裂。加之单纱之间相互抱合不牢,表面毛羽较多,难以织造。为了减少断裂,提高织造效率和坯布质量,需要对经纱上浆。但浆纱工艺虽然有利于织造加工,却不利于之后的织物染整加工,表面覆盖的浆膜会阻碍染料向纤维内部扩散及结合,导致上染率低,以及产生色花等问题。因此,需要对PTT/PET复合纤维织物进行退浆处理。The warp yarn of the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric is 75D PET yarn. During the weaving process, the warp yarn is subjected to repeated friction, stretching, bending, etc. on the loom during the weaving process, and it is prone to breakage. In addition, the single yarns are not tightly bound to each other, and the surface has more hairiness and is difficult to weave. In order to reduce breakage and improve weaving efficiency and grey fabric quality, it is necessary to sizing warp yarns. However, although the sizing process is conducive to the weaving process, it is not conducive to the subsequent dyeing and finishing of the fabric. The sizing film covered on the surface will hinder the diffusion and bonding of the dye into the fiber, resulting in low dye uptake and problems such as colored flowers. Therefore, it is necessary to desizing the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric.
第一次平幅OS退浆工艺选取的TF-127A氧化型退浆剂在95℃热碱条件下,具有较好的耐碱稳定性,可以将浆纱过程中常用的聚丙烯酸类浆料大分子进行氧化分解,变成水溶性较好的小分子链段,黏度迅速降低,从而易于从织物上脱落下来。三聚磷酸铵以及螯合分散剂TF-133F对金属离子具有很好的螯合作用,不仅可以防止脱落浆料的反沾污,而且可以软化退浆机内用水的水质,二者可以产生协同作用,可保证起到较好的前处理效果。The TF-127A oxidizing desizing agent selected in the first open-width OS desizing process has good alkali resistance stability under 95℃ hot alkali conditions, and can make the polyacrylic acid sizing commonly used in the sizing process larger Molecules undergo oxidative decomposition and become small molecular segments with better water solubility, and their viscosity is rapidly reduced, making them easy to fall off the fabric. Ammonium tripolyphosphate and chelating dispersant TF-133F have a good chelating effect on metal ions, which can not only prevent the anti-contamination of the falling slurry, but also soften the water quality in the desizing machine. The two can produce synergy It can ensure a better pretreatment effect.
经过平幅退浆处理,织物表面的浆料、油迹、运输储存过程中的污渍等基本上可以得到有效处理。由于湿热作用,织物内部应力得到消除,门幅有一定 程度的收缩,下机门幅为184cm左右。After the open-width desizing treatment, the slurry, oil stains and stains on the surface of the fabric can basically be effectively treated. Due to the effect of heat and humidity, the internal stress of the fabric is relieved, and the door width shrinks to a certain extent. The lower door width is about 184cm.
第二次平幅退浆工艺采用的退浆助剂配方与第一次平幅退浆工艺的退浆助剂配方相同,工艺条件与第一次平幅退浆工艺的工艺条件也相同。The second open-width desizing process adopts the same desizing assistant formula as the first open-width desizing process, and the process conditions are the same as those of the first open-width desizing process.
第二次平幅OS退浆的主要目的为缩门幅,退浆机的机槽内温度由于在95℃左右,高于织物中PTT和PET组分的玻璃化温度(Tg),因此分子链可获得运动和重组,张力进一步得到消除,门幅再一次得到缩减。经过二次处理,织物下机门幅为168cm左右,纬向75D的PTT/PET复合丝的弹力效果明显。The main purpose of the second open-width OS desizing is to shrink the width. The temperature in the tank of the desizing machine is about 95℃, which is higher than the glass transition temperature (Tg) of the PTT and PET components in the fabric, so the molecular chain Movement and reorganization can be obtained, the tension is further eliminated, and the door width is reduced again. After the second treatment, the width of the fabric under the machine is about 168cm, and the elastic effect of the PTT/PET composite yarn with 75D weft direction is obvious.
(2)染色工艺:(2) Dyeing process:
对经过前处理的织物坯布进行染色处理,所述染色工艺所采用的染色剂是由染色助剂和染料组成,染料为分散染料。在本实施例中,染色助剂包括硫酸铵、超细纤维高温匀染剂TF-212K和修色剂S-8231,分散染料包括分散蓝2BLN、分散金黄NP-RGL和分散红3B。该染色工艺中的染色剂的具体配方如下:The pre-treated fabric grey cloth is dyed, and the dyeing agent used in the dyeing process is composed of dyeing auxiliary and dye, and the dye is disperse dye. In this embodiment, the dyeing auxiliary agent includes ammonium sulfate, superfine fiber high temperature leveling agent TF-212K and color repairing agent S-8231, and disperse dyes include disperse blue 2BLN, disperse golden NP-RGL and disperse red 3B. The specific formula of the dyeing agent in this dyeing process is as follows:
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000003
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000003
其中,染料用量均指对织物重百分比,即%(owf),染浴浴比为1:3.3。染色机的工艺参数设计为:主泵的输出频率为35Hz,风机的输出频率为37.5Hz,提布轮的转速为420rpm。Among them, the amount of dye refers to the weight percentage of the fabric, namely% (owf), and the dye bath ratio is 1:3.3. The process parameters of the dyeing machine are designed as follows: the output frequency of the main pump is 35Hz, the output frequency of the fan is 37.5Hz, and the speed of the cloth lifting wheel is 420rpm.
该染色工艺采用高温高压气流溢流两用染色机进行染色,在染色机的染缸 温度达到45℃时开始分别注入染色助剂和分散染料;染色助剂首先加入时,可在染缸内采用直抽方法快速注入;分散染料加入时,需采用比例注料方式,控制染料注入染缸内的流速,均匀注入,注料时间为30min,防止注料过快,染料与布面直接性强而产生染色不匀等问题。The dyeing process uses a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure and airflow overflow. When the dyeing vat temperature of the dyeing machine reaches 45℃, the dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes are injected respectively; when the dyeing auxiliaries are first added, direct extraction can be used in the dyeing vat Method of quick injection; when disperse dyes are added, a proportional injection method is required to control the flow rate of the dye into the dyeing vat. The injection time is 30min to prevent the injection from being too fast. The directness of the dye and the cloth surface will cause dyeing failure. Even the question.
该染色工艺分为染色阶段和水洗阶段。由于气流模式的雾化作用,整体需要染浴体积小,因此其染色虽然效果好,但水洗效果却差。因此,在染色阶段中,染色机为气流模式,在水洗阶段,染色机则为气液模式;这样的设计既可保证获得均匀染色效果,又能赋予织物“气流风格”,使得综合水耗维持在较低使用量。The dyeing process is divided into a dyeing stage and a washing stage. Due to the atomization effect of the airflow mode, the overall volume of the dye bath needs to be small, so although the dyeing effect is good, the washing effect is poor. Therefore, in the dyeing stage, the dyeing machine is in air-flow mode, and in the washing stage, the dyeing machine is in air-liquid mode; this design can not only ensure a uniform dyeing effect, but also give the fabric "air-flow style", so that the overall water consumption is maintained At lower usage levels.
为了保证最佳上染速率,单位时间内织物和染液交换次数越多,越有利于匀染,因此,该染色工艺通过设计合理的染色温度工艺曲线,并配合染色机的主泵、风机、提布轮参数的设计,实现较好的染色效果。In order to ensure the best dyeing rate, the more the number of fabric and dye liquor exchanges per unit time, the more conducive to level dyeing. Therefore, the dyeing process is designed with a reasonable dyeing temperature process curve and cooperated with the main pump, fan, and The design of cloth lifting wheel parameters realizes better dyeing effect.
如图1所示的染色温度工艺曲线,注入染色剂后,染缸温度以0.7℃/min的升温速度升温至85℃,在此温度下进行始染,保温5min,再以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至105℃,保温10min,然后以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至115℃,保温10min,再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃,保温80min,接下来以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至80℃,然后进入水洗阶段。The dyeing temperature process curve shown in Figure 1. After the dyeing agent is injected, the temperature of the dyeing vat is raised to 85°C at a heating rate of 0.7°C/min. Dyeing starts at this temperature, holding for 5 minutes, and then heating up at 0.8°C/min Increase the temperature to 105°C, hold for 10 minutes, then increase the temperature to 115°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 10 minutes, and then increase the temperature to 130°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 80 minutes, and then at 1.2°C/min The cooling rate is lowered to 80℃, and then it enters the washing stage.
PTT纤维又叫做弹性涤纶,由于大分子链中重复单元含有的亚甲基数目不同,奇碳效应使得PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染色方法较常规PET有所不同。PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染色转变温度TD(上染速率显著加快转折点)由于PTT纤维的加入,为70-80℃,较纯PET低10℃左右。因此控制PTT/PET复合纤维织物的始染温度在85℃,在此温度下,将织物放入染色机的染缸内,进行 始染,并在此温度下保温5min,然后以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温,可以使织物获得较好的初始染色效果。如图1所示的染色温度工艺曲线,随着染缸内温度升高和开始加压,织物分子链段运动开始加剧,微观结构的变化可以形成较多的“空穴”,通道的增多,有利于染料的扩散。为了防止染料急剧上染造成色花,因此要合理控制升温速率、温阶以及对应的保温时间,并配合硫酸铵、超细纤维高温匀染剂TF-212K和修色剂S-8231,不仅可以保证染色均匀性,也可以防止形成瑕疵。保温结束后,从130℃降至织物的玻璃化温度Tg(如图1所示曲线中的80℃左右),降温不宜过快,防止形成折痕。PTT fiber is also called elastic polyester. Due to the different number of methylene groups contained in the repeating unit of the macromolecular chain, the odd carbon effect makes the dyeing method of PTT/PET composite fiber fabric different from that of conventional PET. The dyeing transition temperature TD of PTT/PET composite fiber fabric (the turning point of dyeing speed is significantly accelerated) is 70-80℃ due to the addition of PTT fiber, which is about 10℃ lower than pure PET. Therefore, control the initial dyeing temperature of the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric at 85℃. At this temperature, put the fabric into the dyeing vat of the dyeing machine for initial dyeing, and keep it at this temperature for 5 minutes, and then use 0.8℃/min. The heating rate is increased, and the fabric can obtain a better initial dyeing effect. As shown in the dyeing temperature process curve shown in Figure 1, as the temperature in the dyeing vat rises and pressure begins, the movement of fabric molecular segments begins to intensify. The changes in the microstructure can form more "holes", and the increase in channels will cause Conducive to the diffusion of dyes. In order to prevent the rapid dyeing of dyes from causing coloring, it is necessary to reasonably control the heating rate, temperature level and corresponding holding time, and cooperate with ammonium sulfate, superfine fiber high temperature leveling agent TF-212K and color repairing agent S-8231, not only Ensure the uniformity of dyeing and prevent the formation of blemishes. After the heat preservation is over, decrease the glass transition temperature Tg of the fabric from 130°C (about 80°C in the curve shown in Figure 1), and the temperature should not be too fast to prevent the formation of creases.
染色后的织物,可在80℃左右选择对样,如无色光、色相偏差等问题,接下来可使织物进入水洗阶段。第一次水洗在70℃进行中温水洗,时间为30min,可以洗去大部分浮色,泡沫等。第一次水洗后的织物,再进行一次5min的常温水洗,其洗涤效果以缸内水清澈,无明显泡沫等为准。如第二次洗涤未达到要求,可视具体情况,继续增加清洗次数,直到缸尾部排水清澈为止。经过该染工艺后,织物的下机门幅为154cm左右。The dyed fabric can be selected at about 80℃, such as colorless light, hue deviation, etc., and then the fabric can enter the washing stage. The first washing is carried out at 70°C with medium temperature water for 30 minutes, which can wash away most of the floating color and foam. After the first washing, the fabric is washed again at room temperature for 5 minutes. The washing effect is subject to the clear water in the tank without obvious foam. If the second washing does not meet the requirements, depending on the specific situation, continue to increase the number of washings until the drain of the tank is clear. After this dyeing process, the width of the fabric under the machine is about 154cm.
(3)定型工艺:(3) Shaping process:
经过染色工艺染色后的织物坯布进入定型工序。定型工艺通过定型机并利用定型处理液对染色后的织物进行定型后整理。定型工艺所使用的定型处理液中每升定型处理液含有20克氟系防水防油防水剂TF-4109、10克抗静电剂和5克柔软剂。定型工艺的定型温度为180℃,车速为45m/min,风机转速为1400r/min,定型机打4个正超喂。The fabric grey cloth dyed by the dyeing process enters the setting process. The styling process uses a styling machine and a styling treatment liquid to set and finish the dyed fabric. Each liter of the styling treatment liquid used in the styling process contains 20 grams of fluorine-based water and oil repellent water repellent TF-4109, 10 grams of antistatic agent and 5 grams of softener. The setting temperature of the setting process is 180°C, the vehicle speed is 45m/min, the fan speed is 1400r/min, and the setting machine performs 4 positive overfeeds.
经过染色工艺后,PTT/PET复合纤维织物已具备一定绉感的“气流风格”,为了维持这种风格,根据染色出缸门幅和定型机要求门幅,以及兼顾手感、克 重等,设置好如以上所述的定型机的定型温度、超喂、车速、风机转速等参数,可使其“气流风格”获得稳定。After the dyeing process, the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric has a certain crepe-like "air-flow style". In order to maintain this style, the door width of the dyeing cylinder and the width of the setting machine are required, as well as the hand feeling and weight. For example, the setting temperature, overfeeding, vehicle speed, fan speed and other parameters of the setting machine mentioned above can make its "air flow style" stable.
浸轧定型处理液后的织物,在定型机两侧固定位置针板的拉伸作用下,随着布面温度提高,分子链段开始重组,结晶度和取向度提高,再经冷却后,尺寸获得稳定。防水剂TF-4109为有机氟类防水剂,作用到织物表面后,由于C-F键化合物分子间凝聚力小,使得化合物的表面自由能显著降低。当织物表面滴有水滴作用时,其接触角通常会在90度以上,可获得较好的防水效果。同时,利用抗静电剂赋予织物抗静电效果,利用柔软剂进一步改善织物的手感。The fabric after padding and setting treatment solution is stretched by the needle plates at fixed positions on both sides of the setting machine. As the temperature of the cloth surface increases, the molecular chains begin to reorganize, and the crystallinity and orientation degree increase. After cooling, the size Gain stability. Water repellent TF-4109 is an organic fluorine water repellent. After acting on the surface of the fabric, the surface free energy of the compound is significantly reduced due to the small cohesion between the C-F bond compounds. When the surface of the fabric has the effect of water droplets, its contact angle is usually above 90 degrees, which can obtain a better waterproof effect. At the same time, the antistatic agent is used to give the fabric an antistatic effect, and the softener is used to further improve the feel of the fabric.
效果例Effect example
染色效果Dyeing effect
将客户来样设定为标准样,本发明生产样设定为对比样,用Datacolor 600电脑测色仪在D65光源和10视角下,测定样品的的L、a、b值,进而计算色差值ΔE,测试3次,取平均值。对比结果见表1。The sample from the customer is set as the standard sample, and the production sample of the present invention is set as the control sample. The L, a, and b values of the sample are measured with the Datacolor 600 computer colorimeter under D65 light source and 10 viewing angles, and then the color difference is calculated Value ΔE, test 3 times, take the average value. The comparison results are shown in Table 1.
表1 本发明生产样与客户标准样色差Table 1 The color difference between the production sample of the present invention and the customer's standard sample
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000004
由表1可看出,经过高温高压气流溢流两用染色机加工出来的本发明的生产样,当与客户来样作对比时,其色相差ΔH=0.04,饱和度差ΔC=-0.12,总色差值ΔE=0.33,可判定本发明生产样与标准样之间,视觉肉眼范围内观察不出来颜色存在差异。且在常温条件下,加工后的PTT/PET复合纤维“气流风格”突出,织物纬向上的复合丝的弹力效果明显,具有形状记忆功能,保型性好, 满足服用要求。It can be seen from Table 1 that the production samples of the present invention processed by the dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure airflow overflow, when compared with the samples from customers, the hue difference ΔH=0.04, the saturation difference ΔC=-0.12, The total color difference value ΔE=0.33, it can be judged that there is no difference in color between the production sample of the present invention and the standard sample in the visual scope. And under normal temperature conditions, the processed PTT/PET composite fiber has a prominent "airflow style", and the composite yarn in the weft direction of the fabric has obvious elastic effects, has a shape memory function, has good shape retention, and meets the requirements of wearing.
色牢度Color fastness
色牢度包括摩擦牢度评定、变色评定和沾色评定。利用Y571B型干湿摩擦牢度仪和SW-12A耐洗色牢度试验机进行检测。摩擦牢度按照GB/T3920--2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度》测定;变色评定按照GB/T 250—2008《纺织品色牢度试验评定变色用灰色样卡》测定;沾色评定按照GB/T 251-2008《纺织品色牢度试验评定沾色用灰色样卡》评定。具体结果如表2所示。Color fastness includes rubbing fastness evaluation, discoloration evaluation and staining evaluation. Use Y571B dry and wet rubbing fastness tester and SW-12A washing fastness tester for testing. The rubbing fastness is measured according to GB/T3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test and rubbing fastness"; the discoloration evaluation is measured according to GB/T 250-2008 "Textile color fastness test and evaluation of the gray sample card for discoloration"; staining The evaluation is based on GB/T 251-2008 "Textile color fastness test to evaluate staining gray sample card". The specific results are shown in Table 2.
表2 PTT/PET复合纤维织物色牢度测试Table 2 Color fastness test of PTT/PET composite fiber fabric
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000005
Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-000005
由表2可看出,本发明加工处理后的织物,无论是耐干摩擦还是湿摩擦,耐变色以及沾色性能,均具有较高等级,满足客户来样加工要求。It can be seen from Table 2 that the processed fabric of the present invention has a higher level of resistance to dry friction or wet friction, resistance to discoloration and staining, and meets the processing requirements of customers.
本发明对PTT/PET复合纤维织物利用高温高压气流溢流两用染色机进行加工,通过制定合适的染色工艺及其参数,可以使加工出来的织物与客户来样相比具有很好的色彩重现性,且布面“气流风格”突出明显;The invention processes the PTT/PET composite fiber fabric using a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure and airflow. By formulating a suitable dyeing process and its parameters, the processed fabric can have a good color and weight compared with the samples from customers. Presentability, and the “airflow style” of the cloth surface is prominent;
本发明通过对前处理工艺、染色工艺、定型工艺的合理设计,不仅可以使加工后的PTT/PET复合纤维织物无瑕疵缺陷,而且纬向复合丝的弹力不被破坏,织物具备形变记忆性,色牢度满足客户要求。By rationally designing the pretreatment process, dyeing process, and setting process, the present invention can not only make the processed PTT/PET composite fiber fabric free of defects, but also the elasticity of the weft composite yarn is not destroyed, and the fabric has deformation memory. The color fastness meets customer requirements.
以上所述仅为本发明的实施例,并非因此限制本发明的专利范围,凡是利用本发明说明书及附图内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换,或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领域,均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。The above are only the embodiments of the present invention, and do not limit the scope of the present invention. Any equivalent structure or equivalent process transformation made by using the content of the description and drawings of the present invention, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technologies In the same way, all fields are included in the scope of patent protection of the present invention.

Claims (10)

  1. 一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:该染整加工工艺包括前处理工艺、染色工艺和定型工艺,所述前处理工艺包括依次进行的第一次平幅OS退浆工艺和第二次平幅OS退浆工艺,该染整加工工艺的步骤如下:A dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric is characterized in that: the dyeing and finishing process includes a pre-treatment process, a dyeing process, and a setting process, and the pre-treatment process includes the first For the first open width OS desizing process and the second open width OS desizing process, the dyeing and finishing process steps are as follows:
    (1)前处理工艺:(1) Pre-treatment process:
    第一平幅OS退浆工艺,采用平幅退浆机对织物坯布进行第一次平幅退浆处理,该第一次平幅退浆工艺所采用的退浆助剂配方如下:The first open-width OS desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to perform the first open-width desizing treatment on the fabric grey cloth. The desizing aid formula used in the first open-width desizing process is as follows:
    Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-100001
    Figure PCTCN2019118866-appb-100001
    第二次平幅OS退浆工艺,采用平幅退浆机对经过第一平幅退浆处理的织物坯布进行第二次平幅退浆处理,该第二次平幅退浆工艺采用的退浆助剂配方与第一次平幅退浆工艺的退浆助剂配方相同;The second open-width OS desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to perform a second open-width desizing treatment on the fabric grey fabric that has undergone the first open-width desizing treatment. The formula of sizing aid is the same as that of the first open-width desizing process;
    (2)染色工艺:(2) Dyeing process:
    对经过前处理的织物坯布进行染色处理,所述染色工艺所采用的染色剂是由染色助剂和染料组成,所述染料为分散染料,该染色工艺采用高温高压气流溢流两用染色机进行染色,在染色机的染缸温度达到45℃时开始分别注入染色助剂和分散染料;该染色工艺分为染色阶段和水洗阶段,在染色阶段中,染色机为气流模式,在水洗阶段,染色机为气液模式;该染色工艺的始染温度为85℃,保温时间为5min,然后在此始染温度基础上以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温;The pre-treated fabric grey cloth is dyed. The dyeing agent used in the dyeing process is composed of dyeing auxiliaries and dyes. The dyes are disperse dyes. The dyeing process is performed by a dual-purpose dyeing machine with high temperature and high pressure airflow overflow. Dyeing, when the dyeing vat temperature of the dyeing machine reaches 45℃, start to inject dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes; the dyeing process is divided into a dyeing stage and a washing stage. In the dyeing stage, the dyeing machine is in airflow mode, and in the washing stage, the dyeing machine It is a gas-liquid mode; the initial dyeing temperature of this dyeing process is 85℃, the holding time is 5min, and then the temperature is increased at a rate of 0.8℃/min based on the initial dyeing temperature;
    (3)定型工艺:(3) Shaping process:
    该定型工艺通过定型机并利用定型处理液对染色后的织物坯布进行定型处理。In the setting process, the dyed fabric grey cloth is fixed by a setting machine and a setting treatment liquid.
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:在染色工艺的染色阶段中,注入染色剂后,染缸温度以0.7℃/min的升温速度升温至85℃,在此温度下进行始染,保温5min,再以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至105℃,保温10min,然后以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至115℃,保温10min,再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃,保温80min,接下来以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至80℃,然后进入水洗阶段,水洗阶段是将染色后的织物坯布在70℃的温度下进行中温水洗,中温水洗时间为30min,然后再进行常温水洗,常温水洗的时间为5min。The dyeing and finishing process for forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the dyeing stage of the dyeing process, after the dyeing agent is injected, the dyeing vat temperature is 0.7°C/ The temperature is increased to 85°C at a min heating rate, and dyeing starts at this temperature. The temperature is kept for 5 minutes, and then the temperature is increased to 105°C at a rate of 0.8°C/min, and the temperature is kept for 10 minutes, and then the temperature is increased to 115°C at a rate of 1.0°C/min. , Heat preservation for 10 minutes, then heat up to 130°C at a temperature increase rate of 1.0°C/min, hold for 80 minutes, then cool down to 80°C at a temperature decrease rate of 1.2°C/min, and then enter the washing stage, which is the dyeing of the fabric grey cloth Carry out medium-temperature water washing at a temperature of 70°C, the medium-temperature water washing time is 30 minutes, and then the room temperature water washing, the normal temperature water washing time is 5 minutes.
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述染色工艺中的染色助剂包括硫酸铵、超细纤维高温匀染剂TF-212K和修色剂S-8231,该三种染色助剂在染色剂中的用量如下:The dyeing and finishing process for forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing auxiliary in the dyeing process includes ammonium sulfate, superfine fiber high temperature leveling TF-212K and color repairing agent S-8231, the dosage of the three dyeing auxiliary agents in the dyeing agent is as follows:
    硫酸铵                           0.8g/L,Ammonium sulphate 0.8g/L,
    超细纤维高温匀染剂TF-212K        0.6/L,Superfine fiber high temperature levelling agent TF-212K 0.6/L,
    修色剂S-8231                     0.2g/L。Color correction agent S-8231 0.2g/L.
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述染色工艺的染色剂中的染料包括以下组分:The dyeing and finishing process for forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 3, wherein the dye in the dyeing agent of the dyeing process includes the following components:
    分散蓝2BLN                   0.10%owfDisperse Blue 2BLN 0.10%owf
    分散金黄NP-RGL               0.02%owfScattered golden NP-RGL 0.02%owf
    分散红3B                     0.06%owf。Disperse Red 3B 0.06%owf.
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述第一次平幅OS退浆工艺和第二次平幅OS退浆工艺的温度条件均为95-98℃,车速为45-55m/min。The dyeing and finishing process for forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the first open-width OS desizing process and the second open-width OS desizing process The temperature conditions of the pulping process are 95-98℃, and the vehicle speed is 45-55m/min.
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述染色工艺的浴比为1:3.3。A dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, wherein the bath ratio of the dyeing process is 1:3.3.
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:在染色工艺中,染色机的工艺参数为:主泵的输出频率为35Hz,风机的输出频率为37.5Hz,提布轮的转速为420rpm。A dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the dyeing process, the process parameters of the dyeing machine are: the output frequency of the main pump is 35 Hz , The output frequency of the fan is 37.5Hz, and the speed of the cloth lifting wheel is 420rpm.
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:定型工艺所使用的定型处理液中每升定型处理液含有20克氟系防水防油防水剂TF-4109、10克抗静电剂和5克柔软剂。A dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the styling treatment liquid used in the styling process contains 20 grams of fluorine per liter of the styling treatment liquid Water and oil repellent agent TF-4109, 10 grams of antistatic agent and 5 grams of softener.
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述定型工艺的定型温度为180℃,车速为45m/min,风机转速为1400r/min,定型机打4个正超喂。A dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, wherein the setting temperature of the setting process is 180°C, the vehicle speed is 45m/min, and the fan speed At 1400r/min, the setting machine hits 4 positive overfeeds.
  10. 根据权利要求1所述的一种可形成具有绉感的PTT/PET复合纤维织物的染整加工工艺,其特征在于:在染色工艺中,染色助剂先以直抽形式全部注入染缸内,然后,分散染料采用比例注料的方式注入,注料时间为30min。A dyeing and finishing process capable of forming a crepe-like PTT/PET composite fiber fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the dyeing process, the dyeing auxiliaries are first injected into the dyeing vat in the form of direct pumping, and then , Disperse dyes are injected by proportional injection, and the injection time is 30min.
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